Some went to Sheffield early, ?Stan! and Hector had lunch at Al Faisal in Manchester’s Northern Quarter. ?Stan! was particularly well informed about the location of the Curry Cafes in this area, this was perhaps a prelude to the first Bier of the day. He must have known that across the road from 58 Thomas St lay 57 Thomas, a micro-pub aka The Marble Bar.
The lights were on, somebody was in. I tried the door, it was locked. Within seconds it was open, Mein Host welcomed us in to his modest establishment. Four casks were on the bar, two were ready. Now Marble’s (Manchester) Lagonda at 5% is not necessarily how we would choose to start what would be a long day. This, we were told, was Trial Version #7. Realising the variation in Hops which has made some Ales unrecognisable in recent times, Marble have set about a series of Trials. To Hector they have it right. This was far more Hoppy than the version I had in Boot on Hogmanay.
The layout of the pub was minimalist, a single long table surrounded by chairs. Once the place fills up there is no choice but to join those already seated. These could lead to rousing nights. That the venue only sells Bier takes me back to U Fleku in Praha when it was in the post Berlin Wall days. I could easily have stayed on here, but my pre-purchased rail ticket was timed for 12.42. We left, to our sorrow.
A £6 single to Sheffield
Approaching Sheffield Yvonne texted to say they were heading to the Harlequin, a new pub for us all. By they I assumed the remaining six, as it turned out the Loving Couple and Howard and Tracy had gone for lunch of the more solid variety. Hector traversed the city centre of Sheffield with an ease that impressed ?Stan!, it wasn’t Rocket Science, I had consulted Google Maps, established where Nursery St was and headed there in a straight line. As we turned into Nursery St we spotted the Harlequin at the far end of the street, we also spotted Craig and Yvonne making a sharp exit. Unperturbed, we entered and found a splendid array of Ale and two European Draught Biers: Paulaner Weiss (München, Deutschland) and the dark Budvar (Ceske Budovice, Czech Republic). The pub itself was spacious with a lower level for games. The serious drinkers appeared to be sitting to the left of the doorway. How one could simply walk in and back out again is inexplicable, there was something for everyone.
The Brew Company (Sheffield) Blonde at 4% was my choice, ?Stan! desired the Gold by the same brewery but was given something else instead. The Blonde tasted very slightly soapy, a bit flat, in fact it had little going for it, but somehow it worked.
Various texts confirmed that The Four were heading to The Kelham Island Tavern, what was always the other pub on Kelham Island. That it was the first port of call was not due to Geography but fear of what lay beyond. The Fat Cat used to be the biggest attraction in England; a return visit would involve trepidation.. The Two had entered both and moved on without stopping, they had no idea where they were headed now. Let me remind the reader that in our Manchester Weekend, the only glimpse I had of Craig and Yvonne was their disappearance over the horizon outside the Harlequin. Maybe they were trying to avoid me? So it goes.
The Kelham Island Tavern was full. ?Stan! negotiated a pint of White Rose (Sheffield) Naughty Blonde at 4.2% . The others were through the back in the extension. We sat where Steve famously performed late one night some years back when he borrowed a local’s guitar and was not permitted to return it until closing. The Ale was fine, not outstanding; it was time to take it easy.
Tracey said something to me, I had to shout back: ‘I cannot hear you because you are not shouting!’ There was a table of student types at the window, the women chose to screech at each other, thanks to this the volume of the entire room was raised significantly. Can people not simply talk?
The Debate Began
Should we set foot in the Fat Cat? Should we go back on the resolve not to drink the Pale Rider? In the end we succumbed and went around the corner. Mein Host and his Dear Lady were in situ, I greeted the latter: ‘I never thought these words would leave my lips – ‘Shall I risk a pint of The Pale Rider.’ This is Kelham Island’s Championship winning Ale at 5.2%. This was our signature Ale from the mid 1990s when it arrived in Glasgow until about two years ago when it became unrecognisable.
Five of Six had the Pale Rider, (at Source!) ?Stan! had the Easy Rider, he also had lunch. The food at The Fat Cat has always been outstanding, even the Vegetarian meals have been enjoyed by Hector in the days when monthly visits to Sheffield were the norm. The range of Biers on offer still makes this pub a major attraction, it is sad what the adjacent Brewery have done to their ale. I have written, a reply was never forthcoming.
We sat in what was formerly the non-smoking room; this is far more comfortable than the seated part of the bar when one is in company. Robin agreed that blindfolded we would still consider Pale Rider to be a good Ale, it has body, there is some flavour. I used to liken it to Straffehendrik when it was brewed in Brugge (Belgium). It is simply a Pale Shadow of its former self, served in Glasgow it could be anything, we never touch it.
The Mathäser Syndrome
For years Sheffield meant The Fat Cat, The Devonshire Cat and The Kelham Island Tavern. Then there were the trips to Dronfield to visit the home of Thornbridge’s Jaipur. There are numerous pubs in Sheffield we have not visited, there was never any need. The demise of Pale Rider and Jaipur has changed everything. The new Sheffield Tap, aka the Station bar kept the city on the radar.
Entering the Shakespeare just across the wasteland from the Kelham Island Tavern, one wonders why we were so stupid never to have been here before. This is a magnificent venue. Again the choice of Ale and foreign Biers is commendable, the rooms to the rear were Spartan, the furthest became our instant home. With genuine German foldaway tables and benches we were straight in. The walls are adorned with numerous Bier -clip Deckles. Back in the smoking days this place must have been horrific.
Hector’s choice of Ale was simple, at last The Haworth Steam Brewery Ale was set before me at a time I could consume it. Their Strong Ale at 5.2% is not my usual style but despite the palate having to adapt to Malt and Sweetness this went down very well indeed. I shall have this again, maybe even at Source!
Having been annoyed earlier by the noise of the people in the Kelham Island Tavern, it is worth commenting that in the Shakespeare Bar there is music played. The speakers are modest, the volume within acceptable parameters. One can tune it in or our depending on the extent of the recognition. They played diverse sounds, Craig would have been happy here.
Choo Choo
The Sheffield Tram took us back to the station where Craig and Yvonne awaited. Remember Craig and Yvonne? Their train (and Robin’s) was leaving in fifteen minutes. We had time to establish that Magic Rock (Huddersfield) Rapture at 4.5% was the Ale to be had. Despite being somewhat Brown and less than 5%, this was their recommendation? What has happened, had they wasted their day? Bye, bye, see you in Musselburgh…
The Sheffield Station Tap was as busy as ever. A converted waiting room it is an ideal venue but is only accessible from the street, not the platforms. Five of Eight returned to Manchester where Three of Five retired.
Meanwhile, back in Manchester, Lagonda at Source!
?Stan! and Hector walked at the pace only they can to the Northern Quarter where our day had begun. With further testimony to the fact that nostalgia ain’t what it used to be, we returned to the Bar Fringe, the scene of Hector’s first ever pint in Manchester.
Offbeat (Crewe) Kooky Blond at 4.1% had a hard act to follow the surprise joy of the Steam Brewery’s Strong Ale. Kooky no, bland yes. We sat at the same table as last year at the rear of the room. The throng mulled around any space people could stand. The noise of the music was unbearable. People were trying to chat, this was impossible. We left pdq. Now where? 57 Thomas St was still in our minds but for the final venue of the day I was persuaded that the walk along Shudehill to the Source of Marble Ale would be a brief one. Ten minutes later we were at the Marble Arch. Quality Ale was guaranteed.
The #7 Lagonda was available here to. With body and hops this was outstanding. A perfect night cap.
The pub itself is a classic venue which I would again suggest has become much more bearable since the smoking ban. The entire place is on a slope towards the bar and beyond. A quite room is located to the rear. Again I mention the music, ?Stan! was appalled that there was any, this is not how he remembers it.
We took a table in the main room, a very pleasant venue. Adjacent was a door which looked as though it had not been opened for a century. A model of one of England’s fictional pubs was presented to a young lady; Hector was straight in with the camera. An excellent venue with great Ale, a perfect end to the day, or was it?
Bidding farewell I jumped in a taxi to The Curry Mile, well, one is in Manchester…
The Pubs and Brewery Taps visited today:
57 Thomas St, Marble Bar – 57 Thomas St, Manchester, M4 1NA
Harelquin – 108 Nursery Street Sheffield, S3 8GG
The Kelham Island Tavern – 62 Russell Street Sheffield, S3 8RW
The Fat Cat – 23 Alma Street, Sheffield, S3 8SA
Shakespeare – 146-148 Gibraltar Street Sheffield, S3 8UB
The Sheffield Tap – Sheffield Station, Sheaf St, Sheffield, S1 2BP
The Bar Fringe – 8 Swan St, Manchester, M4 5JN
The Marble Arch – 73 Rochdale Road , Manchester ,M4 4HY