Manchester – It’s Putty Day!

On Wednesday at 10.30, 10.25 for those in the know, Verdant Brewing Co. (Falmouth, England) released their now classic Putty. Can a Craft Beer first brewed in 2017 be a classic already? Damn right it can. All CANs would be sold out by 11.00.

Putty, an 8.0% DIPA with the full on milkshake haze features Galaxy, Mosaic and Azacca hops. Imagine Mango Lassi with a kick. Today, selected pubs across the UK simultaneously served the keg. One keg per venue. The list of venues essentially defines the best Craft Beer bars in the UK.

Today is the first of this year’s two nights of IQ at The Met, Bury, an annual Prog Rock event in Hector’s calendar. This brought Hector and Marg to Manchester initially. After the ritual Curry at Kabana in the Northern Quarter, we arrived at Cafe Beermoth just after 17.00. Two hours VDT!

Are you sure it will be on? – asked Marg.

It had better be – was the reply.

No negative waves.

Tap 3 had the Putty! Marg decided to treat. 2/3 – was the required quantity, Marg came back with a ½. There was a restriction in place – to give everyone a chance. However, blessed is the lady who brings Putty. Marg had coffee.

Meanwhile, at the Grunting Growler (Glasgow), the chaps were out in force, almost. Between us we didn’t reach the magic – ten. (No photos by Yvonne.)

Can a Bier be this wonderful that Hector posts a Blog entry to celebrate? Evidently.

Returning to Cafe Beermoth at 23.00 after the IQ-Bury excursion, there was a remote possibility… This time Marg challenged Hector’s uncertainty.

It’s Aff! Instead, Neal Gets Things Done at 6.5%, another Verdant winner featuring Citra, Mosaic and Nelson Sauvin, was the replacement.

Where’s the rest of your crowd? – asked the familiar barman/manager.

We’ll be here, mob-handed, next week!

Mr. Manchester got here first!

Update

I am reliably informed that a keg of Putty has been made available for our local in Glasgow.  It will be served next Saturday when we are all back in Blighty!

No, I’m not saying where.

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Bologna – Emilio Romagna – The Craft Beer Capital of Italia?

Saturday, October 14, 2023

Three nights in Bologna, the final leg of this trip, and Bier-wise, a potential highlight. The Craft Beer Capital of Italia – is how two friends have described Bologna. This summer, a London Beer publication also confirmed the same venues that were – on the listCraft Beer in  Roma has been celebrated for some two decades, however, this year’s short visit limited further investigation. With all the Craft Beer outlets lying within the boundary of the Mediaeval city walls, moving around on foot would be simple, getting to Bologna, less so.

For reasons unknown, our pre-booked train tickets from Pisa involved a fast train to Firenze, a change of station then an onward two hour plus journey by bus. Fast trains were available from Firenze but at unrealistic prices. Arriving at Pisa Centrale just before 11.00 for our 11.43 departure, only one train was on the otherwise blank departure board. The Trenitalia information office was closed, the line of people with suitcases queuing at the ticket desks was growing rapidly. Our previous Trenitalia journeys on this trip have featured constant announcements on every train, in English and Italian that it is now necessary to check-in before boarding a train when using their app. I could check-in for the Bologna bound bus, but not the immediate train journey. The conclusion, no information, no trains.

Having had no option but to use FlixBus between Trieste and Porec & Pula (Hrvatska-Croatia) back in 2018, their app was still on the trusty Oppo. There were two buses going from Pisa to Bologna, the first leaving at 11.30. Having booked two tickets, I took what seemed like the sensible option to then book seats 6A and 6B. The Pisa Coach Station is on the other side of town, a taxi saved us arriving there as sweaty blobs. The FlixBus tracker, where was that on the day I had to escape from Polska, showed a five minute delay in departure. We arrived in Bologna ahead of our original schedule, but not before two chaps boarded in Firenze with seats 6A and 6B booked. So it goes.

Determined to report on at least two Bologna Curry Houses, this was the first item on the Bologna agenda. The joy that was Mirch Masala is written.

One of our advisers had suggested that the coffee at Caffè Terzi is the finest in Bologna. As we walked up Via Guglielmo Oberdan, strains of cosmic music wafted through the air. Two chaps, one on acoustic double Bass, the other on strange contraptions, the Percussionist. A single flip-flop, what a sign, was his primary – drumstick. Digital delay was being put to its full use.

PsicoNauti – I had to buy their CD. Those who know CAN’s – Dizzy Dizzy (Soon Over Babaluma) will recognise the vibe.

And so to Caffè Terzi, where we managed to get a table through the back. This was my first encounter of an Americano served as an Espresso with hot water, as well as hot milk, on the side. We like our coffee hotter than hot.

Tasty coffee, let’s reboil the kettle.

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The next half hour or so was spent at Le due Torri: Garisende e degli Asinelli. There was no desire to climb Garisende, but having just left Pisa, it was weird to discover that Asinelli is tilted by 0.1º more than Pisa’s more famous tower.

Bier o’clock

There are two distinct lines of Craft Beer houses in Bologna. One runs westwards from Piazza Maggiore, the other in a north-south line to the west of the University area. We looped north within the city walls to arrive at Via Mascarella. Zapap Taproom, the most northerly of the cluster was first on the agenda. This tiny bar was stowed, inside and out. A Saturday night, everyone was here. We headed a few metres onwards to LOrtica which again seemed to be mobbed.

Determination got the Hector through the throng huddled at the doorway to LOrtica, Bier was required. Mascarella 28 (Birrificio RuRale, Italia) at 6.0% is an AIPA, no NEIPA / DDH IPA. Yellow, with a slight haze, this West Coast creation was dry, resinous, not what the Hector wanted.

Move along. Actually, Marg’s Limestone Ginger Beer had a much more appealing flavour. As the place cleared a bit, so the staff appeared to recognise our presence. We were forty years older than the average customer. I was intrigued by the number of seats through the back. So many Italians remain addicted to that stinky weed and have to be outside where the penned in seats were full.

The entrance to Zapap Taproom had partially cleared, also, we must have hit Via Mascarella at a significant moment. There was even space at the bar, and a shelf to sit at on the opposite wall. All very cosy. An Aperol Spritz for Marg, for Hector it had to be the Mosaic IPA.

Hoppy Polla (Birrifico Artignale Zapap, Bologna, Italia) at 5.5% was a distinct improvement. Again, West Coast in style, the favoured hop came across. With nothing nasty here, More would have been welcomed, but there were other venues to evaluate.

Our stay at Zapap was prolonged by the excellent pair of girls behind the bar engaging us. In the spirit of Aperitivo, two slices of Pizza were presented. That put the kybosh on plans for dinner later.

Madama Beerstrò was next on the list, however, Marg had other ideas. We were passing a bar, yes one of those normal bars which still served fayre from the twentieth century. The football was on the TV, Marg wanted a break from Bier note-taking. I have no idea what the place was called, or who was playing. I lie.

Italia 4v0 Malta. We were at Spiller, an Italian pub chain featuring Bier from Forst (brewed north of Turin) among others.

The Heller Bock at 7.5% would cleanse the palate of the hops that had recently been implanted. With minimal sweetness, if you had told me this had been brewed in Deutschland, I would not have been surprised. I did like the detail in their Bier menu, as well as the usual information that the Heller Bock was bottom fermented, is information I can share.

Madama Beerstrò was probably the highlight of the night. Only seven taps and still nothing – in the required style, the time was right for a DIPA. Masika (Birrifico Amerino, Italia) at 8.0% was gold and clear. With an appropriate body, this West Coast style DIPA was far from being a Session Bier. Not shabby at all. The palate was adjusting.

It was here we encountered the Bologna Craft Beer map. It matched my research, nay, I had one extra place nearby to visit. The staff again engaged, the advantages of having a Revolut card were outlined. In exchange, a chap suggested a NEIPA in CAN, again from Birrificio Amerino. Bier from a CAN, aye right! Next time.

Birreria Popolare was the newcomer. Again busy inside and out, the Bier choices were popular Euro fayre on one board, Italian Craft on the other.

Ciube (Birrificio Artigianale Lariano, Italia) an 8.5% DIPA was the Hector choice. Gold in colour, with a slight haze, the body reflected the abv. Dry tasting, there was nothing significant in the way of hops coming across. This is the way the night, indeed the majority of the Italian Craft Beer scene, appears to be.

The seating area was – through – the bar, a strange experience. We became aware of the downstairs room, perhaps a crowd had been watching the football on the large screen. They evacuated leaving it empty. This was a decent venue, the staff were communicative, welcoming.

Astral Beers Pub was the last port of call on this east side strip. There was a feeling that the large space might have been better utilised.

Seven taps, and being the night-cap, the Hector went dark. A 10% Baltic Porter would have gone down well, a 5.5% Dry Stout had to suffice. Gallagher Stout (Hilltop, Italia) had the hoped for chocolate and coffee hit, now imagine it at 10%.

Sunday, October 15, 2023

Mornings, what’s the point? Marg tends to disappear to get her steps up, the Hector usually gets around to some blogging. With yesterday’s Curry written up, it was time to find today’s. Sadly, not such a great experience. However, despite not having eaten there, I have gathered enough information over two days to establish that Tikka Point (Desi Nashta) is definitely the place to check out.

We strolled through Parco della Montagnola on our return from the wrong side of the tracks.  Not much to see there.

Piazza Maggiore would then be studied today. Today’s busker sounded like Bernardo Lanzetti (Premiata Forneria Marconi) as we approached the square. He then changed to songs with English lyrics, wee pop tunes.

Today, I did not buy a CD.

Fontana del Nettuno, a famous erection on Piazza Maggiore, was screened off at the base. We spent time therefore appreciating the statue of Galvani. My interpretation of the plaque was that he was the first to send a message by wire in Italia. Galvanised – is certainly a well known term.

Marg had already visited the basilica at the top of the square. To me, it appeared to be incomplete, and therefore of little architectural merit.

Bier o’clock

Via Ugo Bassi runs west from Piazza Maggiore. Where it ends one finds the beginning of Via del Pratello, here there be Bier.

Mutenye, our local.

Somehow we missed Beer for Bunnies which is at the first corner. Birroteca Bukowsky was the target, closed on Sundays, as we discovered. We had spotted Mutenye, one of two premises with a mass of Bier taps, but not Craft Beer houses per se. Mutenye has Edlestoff (Augustiner, München)! Hector had to pay homage.

The young chap, featured above, spotted my Früh (Köln, Deutschalnd) t-shirt.  He promptly produced a Früh tap.  So gravity poured Bier at times?

Il Punto lies to the north of Via del Pratello, round the corner from a certain Scottish brewer whose name does not appear in these pages. Il Punto was a strange place. The staff were a bit in one’s face. Two bars, one for food? Lots of space, a covered area in the doorway, a large room off the bar area.

Eight taps, one more than seven, the choice boiled down to a 5.6% or 8.0% IPA. Still relatively early, the lesser was chosen. Sound (Birrificio Wyatt, Italia / Fan, San Marino) was cold, yellow and fizzy. With hardly any flavour at all, it should have attacked the palate after Hallertau Hops, it didn’t. More West Coast dryness, at least these encounters have yet to be sweet. A pity the IBU has not been forthcoming.

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Around the corner from Birroteca Bukowsky lies Beerichino. Another micro-bar, a welcoming chap, a pity his board was not so. To Øl (Danmark), have yet to impress. I was not going back down to 4.7% either. No Bier here for Hector, Marg said she was hungry.

Trattoria Baraldi lies next door to Mutenye on Via Pratello. A traditional restaurant, there are no Italian restaurants in Italia, this was the first opperchancity to have Tagliatelle al ragù bolognese in the city does that does not serve Spaghetti Bolognese. I have learned with Carbonara over the years that small portions can be deceptively filling. This portion was not.

There are only four taps in Beer for Bunnies. One of them was a NEIPA!

Little Miss Sunshine (Birrificio Busa dei Briganti, Italia) had – the taste! This milkshake-haze hit the palate with an assault of american delight. What hops, I can’t establish. The right ones, clearly.

Only then did I discover the Bier was 3.0%. I enjoyed every drop, but as this had become a very slow Bier day, it was time to move on up.

I asked Mein Host if he had any CANs of NEIPA. Behold the very same 6.3% San Blas (Birrificio Amerino, Italia) that I had been shown last night at Madama Beerstrò was presented. Only 330ml CANs in Italia? The milkshake haze was present, lactose was even confirmed. The – Polish aftertaste – was present, a slight astringency. Sabro, sometimes this hop is not intrusive, here it was.

Monday, October 16, 2023

Marg sold me the need to enter Basilica San di Petronio. The World’s largest/highest sundial only works when the sun is shining. Our last full day in Bologna was cloudy. The armed guards at the door did attract attention to something else that is in this building, enough for Islamic extremists to plan to blow up this pace of worship back in 2002.

No Curry for lunch today instead we dined at 051 Cibo e Passione in the heart of the market area.

The pasta was different, tortellini stuffed with meat, and served in a cheese sauce that quickly became monotonous. Marg did better with lasagna.

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Baladin Bologna – was checked out. Housed wholly within an indoor market, fine for a Bier with lunch, but hardly a place one would go for a session. Maybe they do.

Bier o’clock

Birroteca Bukowsky Birreria Bologna on Via Pratello was the main objective this evening. Having stopped for ice-cream near the university area, I thought Empire English Pub might be worth checking out. There was nothing – English – about this bar/eatery.

There was nobody behind the bar when we entered soon after opening time. Having inspected the array of – safe Bier – the kiosk in the corner of the room caught the eye. Different. As one would order a burger, so we purchased the gentle 5.0% Franziskaner Weizen (Spaten-Löwenbräu, Munchen), and a cocktail.

A table was taken, we waited for the drinks to appear. In time I was summoned to the bar. The girl knew we had ordered drinks, but had no idea what. On handing over the printout/receipt, this was not to be returned. I returned to our table and waited for the drinks to be brought over. Nope, I was summoned once more to the bar. How much work had I done in comparison to the barmaid?

A large screen displayed a video of a warming fireplace. This was the only gemütlich feature of Empire English Pub. Other TV screens showed classic rock/pop videos, with the sound down. Instead we had to suffer Italian (c)rap for the duration of our stay. For whom was this?

It became a matter of drink up and leave, this was not a welcoming establishment.

Birroteca Bukowsky Birreria Bologna was the opposite. With only four taps, there was nothing the Hector desired. Mein Host went straight to his fridge and produced suggestions. Naima Giant Step (Cr/ak Brewery, Padova, Italia) is a 6.2% DDH IPA. Yellow, with a full haze, this was a rewarding Bier. The unidentified hops came across, there was nothing here not to like, more!

Meanwhile Marg had been given a bottle of water. Bier or water, that was it. Sadly, this curtailed the visit, else the feet would have been firmly planted under the table. Mein Host and a customer engaged. The customer worked across the street at a public facility. Here too was a hole in the wall serving gas for Frizzante. Is this why sparkling water is so cheap?

Mein Host likes Pils, the Hector tends to avoid it, especially Deutsche Pils. Clearly a Bier enthusiast, I suggested he visit Manchester at the first opperchancity. He needs to be exposed to Craft Beer for the twenty first century. This was the best bar in Bologna.

Mutenye was where we spent the rest of the evening. Edelstoff (Augustiner, München) is always enjoyed, Marg could find something to her liking.

 There was even a snack, thus a second dinner was avoided.

We were recognised having been last night. The chap and his lady assistant looked after us. Second division Bier in many ways, but a proper bar and confirmed Via Pratello as the better of the two drinking areas.

Bologna, the Craft Beer Capital of Italia? The best Italian Craft Beer I encountered was brewed in Padova. What we have is a story of the majority of brewers not embracing the road to hoppiness.

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Athena 2023 – The First Two Days

The annual trip to Athena, forms part of this year’s main – summer –  trip, albeit in the autumn. It is approaching a decade since the last Athena Blog posted in Bier-Traveller, these days I tend to add more information in the drop down links at the top of the page. However, Curry-Heute has covered every trip, hopefully an earthquake and Covid lie behind us. This year it’s thunderstorms, the forecast for Hellas is horrible. We shall see.

Tuesday, September 26

Hector and Marg were up at 03.00 for our dawn flight from Edinburgh. Always Edinburgh, yet Glasgow is the centre of Scotland’s population. Lord Clive and Lady Maggie of Crawley took an even earlier flight to Athena this morning.

Arriving punctually around 13.00. The long walk to passport control was as expected, at least the post-Brexit queues were not a feature of this arrival, try getting through passport control in Köln, Porto and Lisboa these days in less than an hour.

The Metro took us to Monastiraki, our accommodation for the first two days was opposite Little Cook, a much decorated cafe at the southern edge of Psiri and a major attraction for children of all ages. Hector will admit to having enjoyed the ice-cream here.

Attic room – was how our accommodation was described, more like – rooftop. Bijou – would be another suitable description. For two nights, fine.

The view over Plaka to the Acropolis from the rooftop bar at Hotel A for Athens has become a popular spot over the years, especially late afternoon when the colours turn to richness. I texted Maggie to inform her of our intention to be there by 16.00, a message not picked up for some forty five minutes.

The rays from the sun were strong, the view was as satisfying as ever, perhaps more-so today since rain was forecast, is forecast, will be forecast, and is determined to follow the Hector everywhere he goes this year.

Bier o’clock, the staff thought otherwise. Anywhere else, we would have walked. Take in the view, take some photos. Eventually service, of sorts. The Bier list was poor, over-priced small bottles. That my first Bier of this trip was Budvar (Czechia) felt strange. Marg had Sparkling Water, she wanted a snack, not possible. The issued menu was due to change in ten minutes, if Marg wanted food, she would have to go downstairs to the restaurant. I texted both Clive and Maggie, relocation.

Beer Time is the only bar mentioned in my last Athena Blog posting that remains relevant. They have a Happy Hour daily at 16.00, two for one on draught Bier.

We took our seats at an outside table on Iroon Square, the heart of Psiri, the locus of every Athena visit in recent times, Plaka no more. Elena has long gone from Beer Time, yet we have met her every year. George was not on duty today, not well, no news on Thanasis, Mein Host. The new waitress was suitably welcoming. We were too early for Chara in the kitchen.

Septem 8th Day Mera – (Euboea, Hellas) featuring Citra, Mosaic and Simcoe hops, became my favourite Greek Bier some time back. A 7.0% West Coast style IPA at 7.0% with 65 IBU, a dry and surprisingly fruity Craft Beer as one can encounter, is a contemporary of Rowing Jack (AleBrowar, Polska). This has been the must have Happy Hour Bier at Beer Time for many years despite the palate now preferring New England IPAs. Septem 8 was gone from the list.

The most enticing Bier was Septem’s Lager-Blond at 4.5%. It was still hot enough to justify a Big Yellow Bier, especially after the meagre bottle in the previous half hour.

Clive phoned to inform us that due to the distance across Athena still to be travelled, they would miss the end of Happy Hour, could I order on their behalf. As George himself would have done, the waitress assured me that for us, Happy Hour would be extended.

Clive and Maggie have moved house since I last saw then in Crawley, two weeks ago. Updates out of the way, it was, well – Beer Time. I’m told my room is the only one in the new ‘ouse which is ready.

Shots were provided as we departed, we are known here.

It was only last year that Marg and Hector realised that restaurant The Rebetadiko of Psiri on the edge of Iroon Square has a huge garden to the rear. Hector led the way. A few paces later I asked the chap out front about the garden.

It’s closed, the rain is coming.

In fact, the restaurant was closed, we found ourselves being taken into the next door restaurant – Grillhouse Arachova.

Grill Houses, don’t start me. Have the Greeks lost the ability to cook? I ended up with a substantial Meze Grill, OK, it was for two and Marg was willing to share. Great value for what we had and impossible to finish as a Meze should be. 

There was cold, yellow, fizzy Bier, served in an iced glass, what’s not to like?  Clive had Feta with extra Feta, Maggie had the fish.

Suitably replete, we walked eastwards, across Athenas and into the back streets to find to Tales of Ales.

We hadn’t seen Agis, Mein co-Host, for some time, hugs all round. At least tonight the music would be better. Led Zeppelin trumps Northern Soul, always IMHO. Agis also appreciates Prog Rock and acknowledged that Marg and I are due to see Riverside (Polska) supported by a local band – Mother of Millions here in Athena next week.

The board of ten taps had three – in the style – plus Cantillon (Belgium) Kriek. Citra Crush (Seven Island, Hellas) at 6.5% has graced these pages previously. First encountered at Tapfield, it was the first Greek NEIPA to tick all the boxes. This evening it felt a bit rough on the palate, this is what happens when one has a diet of Verdant/Track/Overtone at home.

Maggie opted for Dr. Haze (Strange Brew, Hellas) at 8.0%. No holding back the lady. It was at the Strange Brew taproom where pre-Covid, she – discovered – what the milkshake craze was all about. There’s no stopping her now. How can a NEIPA possibly have a 80 IBU? Clive played safe and stuck with Magania – West Coast – until the evening reached a decisive moment.

One of the customers recognised me from previous visits, he insisted I try King Sue (Toppling Goliath, USA) an 8.0% DDH. Kyriakos, Agis’ assistant, provided a taster, all aboard. Only Citra was reported in this excellent Bier. Smooth on the palate, no nasty aftertastes, this had it all. Well, maybe not a Session Bier for the majority.

Meanwhile, Marg was having Pink Grapefruit, finally, something at Tales of Ales to her liking. Soft drinks have been lacking here over the years. I did ask Kostas last week to ensure that he had something to amuse Marg else we couldn’t stay as long as desired.

The ladies were fading, the early rise taking its toll. What will be the excuse tomorrow night? Clive and Maggie took a €12.00 taxi home, the Hector escorted Marg back to our temporary attic room, time for Tapfield.

Miltos was as exuberant as ever. It’s fair to say that he greets everyone with enthusiasm, and is not afraid of going OTT with those he knows. The board did not match the quality at Tales of Ales, the two in the style were lower in abv, starters, by this time more was hoped for.

The triple collaboration: Kids of the Blackhole (Noctua, Alea Metamorfisi, Black Hole, Hellas) at 5.0% is a NE Pale Ale. That it took three brewers to create this suggested too many cooks. With Sabro reported but not noticed, it was surprisingly Dry, an OK session Bier. Small Bier here, time to move on.

Take Your Time “Persephone” (Main Squeeze Brewing, Athena, Hellas) a 5.2% Juicy IPA, was yellow, hazy, thin but with a hop hit. A better Bier. Miltos was drinking CANs, a taster came my way, tomorrow. He usually has a few DIPAs tucked away, pricey though.

Having justified the visit, it was time to take the long walk home, three minutes at most, including the stairs. It was a long day’s night.

At 02.00 the thunder and lightning arrived. Four hours of continuous flashing and crashing. We stood on the parapet outside the room, would the streets of Monastiraki be a river in the morning as they were a couple of weeks back?

 

 


Wednesday, September 27

Marg likes to rise early and go for a run/walk depending on circumstances. This may involve a stop-off for breakfast. In Psiri, around Iroon Square, there are plenty of morning venues to choose from, I am told. Importantly, when the rain stopped around 06.00, the street s started to dry up. With rain still forecast for the coming days, there would be no going out with out a brolly.

By the time the Hector was ready to get the day underway, Curry-Heute was calling. Today marked the fifth visit to Punjabi Tikka, always a landmark number in the sister Blog.

Having drifted off the northern edge of Psiri, we were nearer Omonia. A day ticket was purchased, two stops to Larissa Station where we bought return tickets to Chalkida/Chalcis on Eoboea/Evia. Everywhere in Hellas/Greece appears to have at least two names. From there we sped east on the Metro to Panormou. A few blocks up the hill lies Lab, a favourite afternoon pit-stop. With the inside seating somewhat restricted today, we had to go out to the covered area. The large table was designated as non-smoking, the rest, well, as it was for years, and the usual disregard..

With a list of new Bier places to try, it was a matter of where next.

I sent Maggie a screenshot for the location of Padre Craft Beer Taproom – Athens, with the advice that we should be there by 16.30. Google had it open earlier, however, found photos suggested a 16.00 opening.

Bus 36 was scheduled to take us almost to the door. It was like being back in Glasgow, multiples of every other route appeared, not the 36. A half hour wait, by which time Clive and Maggie had reached Padre and ascertained a lack of Bier choice. The delivery had not come. Sensibly, they had a Bier whilst they waited, at a table outside, as we would discover. Our small bus emptied en route. By the time we reached our stop, we were down to three passengers. A strange little bus is the 36.

Nicholas, Mein Host, was most welcoming. There was a choice of four, Clive and Maggie were well into Fermi Paradox (Alea, Metamorfisi,Attica, Hellas), a 7.0% NEIPA. With the full milkshake haze, this was wonderfully dry, a definite winner. There was more, the ladies wandered off for a coffee break.

Bus 35 would take us back to Psiri, it passed regularly whilst we sat outside Padre. Then it stopped, Google showed a re-route. The ladies returned from their coffee break and reported riot police up the street. Marg and Hector have previously been caught up in an Athena riot.

Nicholas was able to tell us that there was to be a demonstration. The locals did not want to lose their square – Plateia Exarcheoin –  to a Metro station entrance. This area, to the north east of Omonia, could do with a metro link.

The rain was overdue. Umbrellas out. The blue dot was playing up. We walked towards the riot police, about turn, down the hill to the main road from where any bus would take us south towards Monastiraki.

At Tales of Ales, it was Kostas’ turn to embrace all. Kostas and his lady, Clive, Maggie and Hector had Bier together in August at Howling Hops (Hackney Wick) such is the level of familiarity.

In terms of Bier, it was straight into the Dr. Haze (Strange Brew) with a build up to King Sue (Toppling Goliath).

Kostas took a break during our visit so we were not subjected to his taste in music which is poles apart from Hector’s, and Agis’ also. Northern Soul, music for morons.

Mouses Restaurant lies beside the green Metro line between Monastiraki and Thissio. The Acropolis hangs above in the night sky. This restaurant has been visited oft, it actually serves Greek food, the real stuff, not the endless souvla/grill which dominate the land. There is also live music and Mythos on tap.

22.00 is not that late for dining in Hellas, yet Hector’s first choice was no more. I was persuaded to have another classic alternative. Nope, the last portion had just gone. Kleftiko is an all time favourite. I discussed my Kelftiko experience at a restaurant around the corner a few years back. I am wary of ordering this, too many fakes. I was assured all would be kosher.

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Served in a clay pot, this was different. There was no wrapping, the Lamb sat atop wedges of baked Potato. As with any Curry, there was a quick Meat count. I didn’t get far.

What am I paying for? – I asked the waiter. There’s hardly any Meat here, this is mostly Potato.

At lunchtime I had paid €5.00 for a half kilo of Beef. This was ridiculous. He returned with three more slices of Lamb. If this was authentic Kleftiko that would not have been possible.

Fortunately, what I ate was wonderful, full on Flavours, well Seasoned Lamb. We departed as friends, the chaps had a shot, the ladies were presented with ice-cream.

The children went to bed, a €20.00 taxi for Clive and Maggie. Hector returned to Tapfield. Miltos gave his customary greeting. As I took a stool at the bar, so Miltos gestured towards my left, Kostas! The next hour was madness.

Fermi Paradox was on here too, however, it was straight back to Take Your Time “Persephone” (Main Squeeze Brewing, Athena, Hellas). As it happened, the Brewer was sitting beside me, another introduction. The Hector knows nobody in Athena.

Bars and restaurants visited:

Hotel A for Athens  –  Miaouli 2, Athina 105 54

BeerTime  –  Platia Iroon 1  –  Psirri, Monastiraki, Athina 15565

Tales of Ales  –  Miltiadou 19, Athina 105 60

Tapfield Beer Bar & Tapas – Navarchou Apostoli 4, Athina 105 54

Grillhouse Arachova  –  Eschilou 14,Athina 105 54

Lab  –  Trifillias 71, Athina 115 24

Punjabi Tikka  –  Nikiforou 1, Athina 104 37

 

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Lisboa – 2023 – Another Seven Days – April-May

Thursday, April 27

Marg, Hector, and even Steve, David and Alison were in Lisboa last year, nothing blogged. This year the Hector is determined to update the hard work put in for the first trip here in 2020, weeks before the plague. 21 Gallas has been by far the best source of Bier in Lisboa, quality NEIPAs guaranteed. It was only after booking the full week here that I discovered that 21 Gallas was no more. Why, I was determined to find out. There are new venues to visit, and Outro Lado, the new kid on the block, also impressed last year. Then there’s Curry, last year I just scratched the surface of Rua do Benformoso. This year, Hector intends to do damage.

A Birthday Trip – yet the anniversary is not until Sunday, the day of the Scottish Cup semi-final at Hampden Park. Hector in Lisbon for a birthday, on Sunday the twist, favourable or otherwise, shall be revealed.

The three hour trip south from Porto this afternoon was comfortable. As the Portuguese insist that all over 65s can travel for half price, and #1 is only €10.00 a ticket (gross) dearer, then why not travel in comfort? Despite the rolling stock bearing the largest carriage numbers ever, some still managed to be in the wrong one. So it goes.

Accommodation in Lisboa is appreciably dearer this year. Or maybe Hector has learned where not to stay and pays accordingly. Last year, I managed to book an apartment directly outside the castle entrance. The climb home each evening was initially a killer, before we found shortcuts and elevators. This year, only a three minute walk up a slope from the main avenue – Avenida da Liberdade. An apartment famed for its secluded outside area and its fold-down bed.

The first pit-stop today was at Letraria da Anunciada, a pleasant place to stop and acclimatise in the shade to the extra few degrees Centigrade that Lisboa has over Porto. 32ºC, this is why we were here! Letraria, a few blocks from our apartment and opposite the funicular – Elevador do Lavra.

Letraria is a name well known to Hector given the number of visits to this Braga Brewery’s outlet in Porto. The terrace looked attractive, we took a corner table.

The waitress did not appear happy that soft drinks was all we required. A lukewarm bottle of Sparkling Water was brought, not much use today. I asked for ice, I may as well have asked for the moon. Eight years of retirement, occasionally, the schoolteacher voice emerges, Marg accused me of barking. The ice came, promptly.

Knowing that Lord Clive and Lady Maggie’s accommodation was adjacent to a funicular, I contacted them to verify their address. Theirs was across the valley bottom at Restauradores, fine, the remainder of the reply shocked. They had landed already, and I was led to believe they were coming tomorrow.

There was no water in the fountains at Praça dos Restauradores, still, there was the ritual photographs to be taken, similarly at the waterfront – Cais das Colunas. En route we passed the most famous lift in Lisboa – Elevador de Santa Justa, the queues were as long as ever. However, Hector draws the reader’s attention to the most useful means of gaining height on the west side of Lisboa from down-town – Baixa-Chiado. Through the archway entrance to the Metro lies a series of escalators, well try them for yourself, see where you end up.

With plenty of time before our unexpected rendezvous, Marg and Hector walked along the waterfront to Caix do Sodre. Here lies the ferry terminal for Cacilhas (Almada), and the train station for some western bound services.

More bunkers were required, a brief stop off at a pavement cafe presented a unique photo opperchancity – Yo, Ladies! – that’s a Bier glass!

Ticketed for 24 hours, it’s the sensible thing to do in Lisboa, we jumped on a bus two stops east to Rua dos Arameiros. From there – Outro Lado Craft Beer – is but a short hop.

I was glad to see two worthy Biers on the board, one had to be a winner: Nelson Sauvin (Funky Fluid, Polska) at a sensible 6.6%. We have Lockdown to thank for this being – sensible.

*

Whilst I was at the bar, Clive and Maggie arrived, timing. Without consultation, two more Biers ordered, and an Aperol Spritz for Marg. Who invented this, it’s disgusting!

So good was the Nelson Sauvin, I decided that Verge (Funky Fluid, Polska), an 8.0% – NEDIPA – could wait for another day.

Nelson Sauvin has become a favourite hop, this full on Hazy IPA totally hit the spot. There was more! With two staff, the service was a bit hit and miss. The chap appeared easily distracted. Still, I knew we would be back here over the course of the coming week, I have yet to find the Bier choices here to be a let-down. Another bonus, the sound system was not manned this evening, last year we had to tolerate electro nonsense.

And so we sat until it was declared time to eat. Rua dos Bacalhoeiros, the main street outside Outro Lado, has extensive seating outdoors. All restaurants appeared full, it was time for the Portuguese to dine. I led the party back to the main drag north of Cais das Colunas, here we picked a way over-priced Italian restaurant – La Vita è Bella. There are no photos of Hector’s Seafood Spaghetti, or the moment when – crunch – and an upper back tooth disintegrated on a prawn.

Afterwards, Cerveja Canil was the obvious venue, a couple of blocks north and east. A Brewpub, their own Bier has yet to hit the spot. I keep missing Milkshake-style IPAs, so they have told me in the past. Tonight, nothing different.

Born in the IPA (Musa, Lisboa) at 6.5%, I’ve had previously – at source, almost. Brothers in Arms (Vandoma, Porto) a 7.0% NEIPA with Sabro hops, was too thin to be a Milkshake, fruity, and did not merit a photo, evidently.

This left Canil’s own Imperial IPA at 9.0%. Definitely a good night Bier, the amber, slightly hazy offering had malt coming through. Drinkable, nothing special.

With the number of taps at Canil, they should be doing better.

Clive and Maggie were willing to walk home, however, being a first night in a strange city, we escorted them back to Baixa-Chiado where the Blue and Green Metro lines intersect. One stop home for them, two for Hector and Marg. The Kebap shop on our street was still open, that may be one for a future evening.

Venues visited today:

Letraria da Anunciada – Largo da Anunciada 1, 1250-048 Lisboa

Outro Lado Craft Beer – Beco do arco Escuro 1, 1100-585 Lisboa

La Vita è Bella – Rua da Prata 115, 1100-415, Lisboa

Cerveja Canil Baixa – Rua dos Douradores 133, 1100-204 Lisboa


Friday, April 28

Friday Prayers, not that the Hector is ever likely to attend, however, the number of times this coincides with Curry is uncanny. We arranged to meet Clive and Maggie at Martim Moniz Metro station, metres from Curry Heaven in LisboaRua do Benformoso. Today, a new venue for Hector – Tasty Hut. Outstanding Curry as one has come to expect in this city, but having cocked up the portion size at the time of ordering, dinner would be required by us all later.  What have the locals got against Henry?

Thereafter, Metro tickets were renewed for the next twenty-four hours, the plan (Plan A) was to do Tram 28, however, the queue was ridiculous, six trams worth possibly. How do the locals who actually depend on this ever get on? Ah, they take the bus, or the Metro, as did we, dropping down one stop to Baixa-Chiado – Plan B.

Here, we took advantage of the escalators inside the mountain, returning to the area Marg and Hector stayed in Visit #1. It is still a climb from here up to Biarro Alto where Steve and Louise stayed back in 2020.

Cervejaria Artesanal Adamstor, the Craft Beer House has gone, as has the wonderful O Adrianou do Carno restaurant. A bit early for Bier and we had just eaten. Hector led the party past Ascensor da Bica, the funicular, to the Adamstor statue and the viewpoint. Thanks to the heat haze, not much of a view today, Ponte 25 de Abril, the Golden Gate – replica – was hardly worth a photo.

Having walked all of ten minutes, it was time for a seat, and a drink. A table with a potential view was secured at Quiosque do Adamstor. For Hector, Cider usually follows Curry, so why not. Olive had the local Super Bock, the ladies behaved, for the time being.

La Cucaracha! Barata (Portuguese) does not have the same impact. Marg warned me of the offending bug approaching. The size eleven sandal took care of it. There was a loud cheer from the adjacent German table, Marg was horrified when there seemed no end to the prolonged wriggling.

Back on Calçada do Combro, the main street which runs along the southern end of Biarro Alto, we stood at the Tram 28 stop. From here the fun part of the journey east begins, a roller coaster journey back to Martim Moniz looping round the eastern side of the old town.

After a twenty-plus minute wait, we concluded that there was something wrong, no trams were appearing. Plan C – the descent on Ascensor da Bica which was closed last year. Our tickets were valid, those buying a single journey were ripped off.

Buy a 24 hour ticket!

At the foot of the hill, which we walked up too often in 2020 before discovering the escalators, lies Musa da Bica. As far as I can make out this was once a Brewpub for Musa in the north-east of the city, but evidently now just a Taproom.

Breweries make up some crazy names for their produce, NEIPALM Death wins a watch. At 6.1% not too much for a late afternoon Bier. The haze was not full on, short of a milkshake, there was a fruitiness behind the hops. Pleasant, but not enough to want to move in here.

*

The young girls behind the bar were marvellous, providing an array of choices for Marg. They hoped we would return, who knows where we’ll end up in the coming days?

A five minute walk to Cais de Sodre through a park took us to the same bus stop as yesterday. Outro Lado later tonight, in the meantime, a return to Crafty Corner, a bit of a steep climb, but not a long one.

Some time after 2020, Crafty Corner moved from near Cais de Sodre to the eastern side of the old town. Last year, the Bier did not particularly impress. In 2020 we found excellent NEIPA/DIPA, last year nothing better than West Coast APA. Last year the staff were, well, quite indifferent, compared to 2020. Today’s visit was a continuation of 2022, no interaction.

The best Bier on offer was Marine IPA (Dois Corvos, Lisboa) at 5.4%. Gold in colour, almost clear, this was decidedly West Coast in terms of high IBU. No nasties, not demanding, was noted. Again, not enough to keep us here.

I did ask a staff member about disappearance of my favourite: 21 Gallas Brewpub, no information about their closure was forthcoming. Hector Holmes will get an answer, eventually. We stayed for another Bier, except Maggie switched to Brehndee. (sic). Here we go.

The ladies needed food, the chaps probably did too, but once the Bier is pouring…

Having turned right last night on reaching Rua dos Bacalhoeiros and finding all restaurants full, tonight Hector applied some Stats & Geography (after Hotelling) the normal distribution and turned left. An inside table was secured at Adega do Atum, a proper Portuguese restaurant. Hector had that well known Portuguese delicacy – Seafood Paella, and to prove consistency, Marg had a Tuna Salad.

*

*

The restaurant was ready to close by the time we departed, amazing how the eastern periphery of this street of eating places is markedly different from the west.

Now for the main event. Tonight no messing, Hector would have the Verge (Funky Fluid, Polska) DIPA at 8.0%, but only after a sensible Nelson Sauvin (Funkly Fluid, Polska).

Verge was stunning, a full on milkshake, smooth as a … a choice of superb Biers in the required style. Outro Lado, a worthy successor to 21 Gallas, albeit not a brewery tap (*).

The venues visited today:

Musa da Bica  –  Calçada Salvador Correia de Sá 2A, 1200-399 Lisboa

Crafty Corner  –  R. de São João da Praça 95, 1100-519 Lisboa

Outro Lado Craft Beer – Beco do arco Escuro 1, 1100-585 Lisboa

Quiosque do Adamstor – Rua de Samata Catarina, 1200-109 Lisboa

Tasty Hut Halal food  –  Rua do Benformoso 151, 1100-084 Lisboa

Adega do Atum  –  Rua dos Bacalhoeiros 8c, 1100-070 Lisboa


Saturday, April 29

The eve of – The Birthday – today’s plan: to stay  until after midnight. Before then, some unfinished business. Having what felt like – Tapas – yesterday at Tasty Hut, today it was time to have the full Bhuna. Whilst Curry photos don’t usually appear in these pages, one photo does capture the mood.

Mosteiro dos Jerónimos at Belém was the objective thereafter. In 2020, we saw the exterior. Then it was not known that – Vasco da Gama – is interred therein. The Belém navigator’s monument – Padrão dos Descobrimentos – would no doubt be celebrated again.

Last night, Clive and Maggie said they would do the bus tour of Lisboa. They didn’t and so would join us. I arranged to meet at a cafe in the park which we walked through last night at Cais do Sodre @15.30. This proved to be too big a test, around a half hour was lost trying to locate them even though at one point they were three metres away, inside (?) the train station. We need a proximity alarm.

Normally the modern tram would take us from Cais das Colunas to Belém, however, the line in the city centre has been ripped up. Cais do Sodre is therefore the present terminus. We headed west, under – Ponte 25 de Abril – which bears an uncanny resemblance to – The Golden Gate Bridge.

Arriving at Belém, the primary mission was still to visit Mosteiro dos Jerónimos and pay homage to Vasco da Gama, the man who IMHO facilitated the creation of what we now call – Curry. Alas, with a 17.00 closing time, and the queue still out the door, nae chance. Next time, an early morning pre-booked ticket

As with Visit #1, we walked along the waterfront, taking photos as and when the gaps in the crowd permitted. The monument to the navigators remains impressive, and our travel companions finally appreciated a photo canvas in Hector’s House.

Some were hungry, Hector less so. Having stopped at Portugália Cervejaria last time, why not return?

For Hector, a Starter, Prawn in Garlic. Can the Hector have enough seafood? Marg went overboard. In the midst of ordering a glass of Mateus Rosé, she ended up with the bottle, to herself. She may have received assistance in time.  I cannot believe I did not take photos of the live lobsters, next time.

At the end of the tram ride back, instead of going to the centrum, Hector led the troops to LoveCraft Gastropub, a few doors west of Musa da Bica where the queue for the funicular was outrageous. LoveCraft is a Portuguese – gipsy – brewery.

A – Gastropub – in other words it served Burgers. I have reached the stage where Burgers and/or Pizza is the food of the last resort. Is this what the masses are destined to eat forever? Throw in some Spicy Chicken Wings and the Hector may be tempted. Maybe the conservative food was a reflection of the Bier choice also. With ten taps representing a range of Bier for different nations, plus a fridge with T.E.A. – Traditional English Ale, in theory, something for everyone. This – one – as ever was hoping for NEIPA but had to settle for West Coast. I was surprised when this turned into a two Bier stop.

Bah! Cascais (Bah Craft Beer, Portugal) is a 6.0% APA. At 50 IBU, it was gold, clear, dry, and not exciting in any way. Importantly no nasties were tasted.

This was followed by LoveCraft’s own Lupina, another APA, this time a more Amber-Gold at 6.4%. An IBU of 21 was reported, it tasted much higher, drier as West Coast APAs tend to be.

Fed, watered, it was back on the bus along the front, Outro Lado was calling once more, as was more Verge by Funky Fluid (Polska).

However, there was a surprise waiting, a NEDIPA at 8.4% , IVY from Xül Beer Co. (Tennessee, USA) featuring Citra and Citra Cryo hops. This was as smooth as a … a sublime Bier.

What finer way to bring in one’s birthday?

Why was the Hector feeling so nervous?

The Bars and Restaurants visited today:

LoveCraft Gastropub – Lisboa – Rua da Boavista 28, 1200-067 Lisboa

Portugália Cervejaria – Edificio Espelho d’Agua, avenida Brasilai S/N, 1400-038

Outro Lado Craft Beer – Beco do arco Escuro 1, 1100-585 Lisboa

Tasty Hut Halal food  –  Rua do Benformoso 151, 1100-084 Lisboa


Sunday, April 30

The birthday card from Marg was appropriate as always. However, for once, there was to be no Curry-Heute. My intended venue is closed on Sundays. Hector’s 67th birthday in Lisbon and there’s an Old Firm Scottish Cup semi-final kicking off at 13.30. Which of the gods arranged this?

We needed a Sports Bar, The George had a good royal, British name, but check the address below. Clive and Maggie had secured a table and were arranging lunch. Hector had no appetite. With a Ginger Beer and a decent view, all was going well. Then we were informed that due to satellite box limitations, our TV would be switched over to a lesser match involving English teams on the half hour mark.

We left, gained altitude with the nearby Baixo-Chiado escalators, and tracked down Cervejaria Do Bairro which was empty. The match was arranged, meanwhile Rangers’ inept defending once again saw a goal lost on the 42nd minute mark. Game over. Happy Birthday, not.

We had the run of the place until some English chaps came in for their game. Cervejaria – but no Craft Beer. There was draught Cider, but Hector had not just had Curry. A typical pub as Europeans see it. At least I had avoided an Irish Bar.

We have never been up this particular part of the hill, i.e. the slope that is Bairro Alto. Fado music is reported here Traditional nightlife we have yet to do in Lisboa. There are some interesting eating places to be explored.

Walking back down to Luis de Camões, the square adjacent to Largo do Chiado, the top end of the, almost secret, Baixo-Chiado metro entrance, Hector’s Horrible Holiday resumed. It was time for Tram 28.

Standing room only, we did the roller-coaster ride down-town, round the east side of Alfama, the old town, alighting at Martim Moniz, the terminus. Having already passed the viewpoint at Miradouro de Santa Luzia, we retraced our journey by taking the near empty castle bus (737 – Castelo) from Praça Figueira back up the hill, smart move.

Today, a blue sky and no haze. Marg gave me into trouble for barking at a couple with a wean who appeared to be taking root at the obvious spot from which to take photos.

Are you going to stand there all day?

I was still not a Happy Hector.

Despite the throng, we managed a tram back down to the centrum. On the south side of Praça Figueira lies Marg’s favourite coffee and cake shop – Confeitaria Nacional. There was cake for the Hector. Fitting.

Maggie needed shoes, just like that. Actually, she had been slipping with her inadequate footwear for days. Bad planning. This interrupted the next trek up flights of steps and another slope, of course, to – The Queen Ale – Craft Beer Bar. What a royal day it could have been.

 

Two chaps were behind the bar, no other customers, it was but late afternoon. Friends of staff did join them at adjacent tables once we were settled. This was a two Bier stop.

First up, a Spanish NEIPA appropriately named Smooth (Peninsula, Espana) at 7.2%. With a decent milkshake haze, this lived up to its name. The hops were quite pronounced: Verdant, Elaborado con Bru-1, El Dorado and Talus. The latter was not an issue.

Despite having tasters of the Lush Yield (The Drowned Lands, New York, USA), a 6.5% NEIPA it was initially declined due to the aftertaste. Somehow, after the Smooth, the palate had adjusted, and why not? Simcoe, Citra and New Zealand Cascade were the hops.

The Queen Ale looks like a place to keep an eye on. If today was typical, then they have Bier – in-the-style. There was an interesting fridge also, but who wants this Scottish brewed Irn Bru in a Bier? Had we stayed longer, then hopefully we would have had more interaction with the staff. There will be a next time.

Time for food, a Birthday dinner. I led the peeps down to the west and a street Marg and Hector have walked oft, but only ever stopped for ice-cream. Rua das Portas de Santo Antão runs parallel to Avenue da Liberdade, lots of traditional Portuguese restaurants line the street.

We chose Inhaca, a table outside with space such that those who pollute would not be right up against us. Our first alfresco meal of this trip. It was time for Hector to have Catapla- na. My fellow diners wimped out. A bottle of Mateus Rosé had to be also, this time Marg shared more.

Our waiter brought a jar of something – red and Spicy – as we were finishing the Bread and Olives.

Clive took but a Soupçon, the Hector liberally covered his roll. Never, have I put something this – hot – in my mouth. Bloody hell! I knew that grabbing liquid was the worst possible thing to do, grin and bear it, let it subside, eventually it will pass. In time, recovery, and a glass of wine. Time to use the facilities, and this time I did take a photo of the lobster. Had I just experienced what he was about to?

The mains were being presented, the Birthday Boy’s came last.

Is that it?

Hector had been set up.

Fear not, the Cataplana soon arrived. Never have I eaten so much crab and lobster, as well as the fish. A wonderful meal, including the wind up. Having written these words, it is mandatory that we shall return to Inhaca, this is how Marg and Hector operate.

Being Sunday, Outro Lado was reportedly closed, strange. But always check when feet are on the ground. We had yet to visit Duque Brewpub on this trip. We headed up the stairs behind Rossio-Lisboa train station, quite a climb. No heart attacks.

Hector arrived many minutes before the cohort, the best Bier on offer was ordered, plus Sparkling Water for Marg, confirmed by phone.

I asked the girl behind the bar if she knew anything of 21 Gallas. A result! On showing my dedicated page, it turned out the girl in that photo was a relative. The brewer has gone back to Brasil which may explain why locally brewed NEIPA is in short supply this trip.

Iparactivo (Duque, Lisboa) is a 6.5% West Coast IPA. Once the palate had adjusted to the higher IBU, the fruitiness came across. As good a Bier as I have had at Duque, the source.

There was more, guess who was last out? For whatever reason, the staff had to close up, plastic was provided so that we could finish outside. In trying to get the photo sorted, the plastic was dropped. Fear not, the Bier was replenished. Clive was well impressed by Duque, despite the long climb up. There has to be an easier approach.

Back on the Metro, two stops home. The hill up to our apartment suddenly felt like but a mound.

The Brewpub, bars and restaurants visited today:

The George – Rua do Crucifixo 58 66, 1100-184 Lisboa

Cervejaria Do Bairro – Rua das Gáveas 97, 1200-287 Lisboa

Confeitaria Nacional – Praça da Figueira, Praça Dom Pedro IV 18B, 1100-241 Lisboa

The Queen Ale – Craft Beer Bar – Largo do Tab. 9, 1150-344 Lisboa

Inhaca Restaurant – Rua das Portas de Santo Antão 8, 1150 Lisboa

Duque Brewpub – Calçada do Duque 51, 1200-156 Lisboa

 


Monday, May 1

We had guests for brunch! Clive and Maggie made their way up, what now feels like a small incline, to our accommodation which features a huge private yard at the rear. Thereafter, it was back on the Metro to Cais do Sodré and the ferry across to Cacilhas (Almada). I like this ferry crossing, it’s short.

At the halfway point, Hector secured a decent photo of Ponte 25 de Abril. On arrival, the submarine was the big attraction.

We were about to negotiate a discounted pensioner entry when I spotted another sign, ah well. Next time.

On our first visit to Cacilhas, Marg and Hector famously shared our first mammoth Fish Stew, so last night. Today, light refreshments sufficed. There was an attempt to have snack at a cafe near the ferry, however, never have I met such incompetent staff. Pointing and grunting is kind of old hat. A young chap was sent out to communicate, I doubt if he understood Portuguese never mind English. Cognitively challenged – as they say in this age of sensitivity.

At our pit-stops, the Hector was busy planning a trip to Óbidos, preferably for tomorrow. Somewhat surprisingly, a tour company did come straight back to me confirming availability. However, the more research that was done, it became obvious – take the service bus.

Back on the mainland, time to revisit a potentially excellent Craft Beer House. In 2020, Sputnik sold Bier by 21 Gallas which was just up the hill behind it. This time, another Lisboa brewery would provide the closest to the Hector idyll.

Weekend (Dois Corvos, Lisboa) at 6.5%, ia Hazy IPA, confused. The first Bier out did not impress, thin for the abv and not particularly hazy, the second was way better. With Citra, El Dorado, and Mosaic, more of a tangerine dream than a true NEIPA.

Rua do Benformoso is just a couple of blocks south of Sputnik, time for an evening Curry. Tonight, Hector chose Radhuni. More wonderful Curry, though I believe Marg and Hector ate each other’s.

Thereafter, the short walk down to Martim Moniz, it’s as if Hector has a master-plan for each day, and behold, Tram 28 was quiet. This was the long way round to Brewery Tap – 8a Colina, the scenic route. Arriving at sunset, there was the opperchancity to experiment with the Oppo. Some decent results.

Marg wanted coffee, the surly chap would only supply espresso, declined.

The board was not that exciting, once again it was Urraca Vendaval, a 6.0% IPA in the West Coast style. I’ve this a few times, it is fine. It was of course, the first Bier of this trip!

 

 

With the knowledge that better Bier was available down the hill, it was back on Tram 28, in the same direction of travel, alighting just above Outro Lado. More Polish NEIPA, at least we know it’s always on. Tonight, we managed a seat in the raised seating area.

A long day, a bigger one tomorrow, an early night.

The brewery taps and restaurant visited today:

Sputnik Craft Beer  –  Rua Andrade 41A, 1170-014 Lisboa

8a Graça (Oitava Colina) – Rua Damasceno Monteiro 8A, 1170-112 Lisboa

Outro Lado – Beco do Arco EsSputnik Craft Beer – Rua Andrade 41A, 1170-014 Lisboacuro 1, 1100-585 Lisboa

Radhuni – Rua do Benformoso 155 A B, 1100-084 Lisboa


Tuesday, May 2

It was – Dan the Man – our guide on the Canyonlands school trip of 2010, who first made Hector aware of the mediaeval town – Óbidos. But how to get there? Four people on an organised tour was throwing away money. Train was a possibility, too slow and infrequent. The – Rapida Verde – coach service from the main bus station could be the way.

We arranged to meet Clive and Maggie at Telheiras, the northern end of the green Metro line. Today turned out to be the first days of major works on this line. Trains had halved in size and were stopping short at Campo Grande.

The bus station was easy to locate, but clearly this was for local service buses. Marg was set to approach the portakabin ticket office, the Hector found a map showing the coach station nearby. En route we picked up Clive and Maggie.

As is the norm, it was the Hector who found the correct bus stand and in a few minutes the timeous coach sped north towards Óbidos.

A modest fare, a quicker journey, all was well. The money we saved by taking this route as opposed to an organised trip would cover the cost of lunch. The only concern: what if all of Óbidos want to come back to Lisboa at the same time as us?

Arriving at Óbidos, there was an appropriate wow! Here was a classic walled town on a raised ground, surveying all. A games fair was being set up, hence the electric sign being lowered adjacent to the gateway, and a bubble-like construction being erected in the town square.

Having stopped to appreciate the internal artwork in the gateway and the ethereal music, it was a case of take the high road or the low. Research en route had revealed a better choice of eating places on Josefa, and so we found ourselves dining alfresco at XII Apóstolos. Cash only.

Many of the buildings in Óbidos are painted light blue and white, there was a feeling of being in Hellas. Photo opperchancities were aplenty, however, there was a limit to how much of the interior of Óbidos we could visit.

A hotel, which I understand cater for golfers, occupies the far end of the town. One assumes another entrance. The exit in the wall, on the railway side of the town, created a funnel for the breeze turning it into quite a pleasant blast. This phenomenon I shared with passers by, some who were wilting in the heat.

This unfortunately included Maggie who soon headed off with Clive in search of shade. They took refuge at Petrarum Domus Bar where cold, yellow, fizzy lager was served. Quite a place, we had it to ourselves. If one was here of an evening, this could well be the place – to dine.

The 16.15 bus back to Lisboa was the obvious one to take, Thereafter, there’s a two our gap in the timetable. If the bus was full, a train around 20.00 was an option. However, the Hector had a fallback which included a taxi to Caldas da Rainha, from where the subsequent bus would depart.

Despite the small crowd that had gathered, we were easily accommodated on the coach.

Back in Lisboa, the disruption to the Metro meant journeying three sides of the square to reach the Mean Sardine Taproom. Alighting at Campo Pequeno (yellow line), we found ourselves in the bowels of a shopping centre – Baia do Peixe. Dead reckoning towards the north-east was all I had to go on. Eventually, we emerged into daylight, and across an open piece of ground lay this previously unvisited venue.

With twelve taps and a choice of NEIPA, so far so good. Suprassumo (5.0%) was not on. The staff weren’t bothered. There was no word of it returning, complete indifference. We were left with the other 5.0% NEIPA – Triton whose efficacy I have to challenge. With only the slightest haze, this was far too sharp tasting, the wrong mouthfeel. Nelson Sauvin hops were allegedly featured, so where was the hop hit?

Moving on was the obvious move, however, it was – Happy Hour – buy one get one free! We had to stay for the second. The ladies required food. Burger and fries, the usual pub fayre, though the Dessert looked more interesting.

Disregarding the somewhat minimalist décor, Mean Sardine Taproom is a spacious venue, a place one could be happy to spend an evening. But if they cannot change a Bier…

I let Clive and Maggie choose our next and final venue for the evening. Surprisingly, Crafty Corner was chosen, back for more Urraca IPA (8a Colina, Lisboa). Having had Urraca here and at source, maybe we were becoming accustomed to this APA. Tonight’s visit turned out to be a breakthrough.

Finally, there was a sense of recognition, we were not just tourists passing through. Patrick, Mein Host, engaged, we discussed the original venue and the move west. The good news, NEIPAs do make an appearance here. Given the proximity to Outro Lado, this means Crafty Corner will always be visited. The challenge – keep us here for the night.

The brewery tap, bars and restaurant visited today:

XII Apóstolos – R. Josefa de Óbidos 7, 2510-077 Óbidos

Petrarum Domus Bar – R. Direita 38, 2510-039 Óbidos

Mean Sardine Taproom – Campo Pequeno 41A, 1000-080 Lisboa

Crafty Corner – Rua. de São João da Praça 95, 1100-519 Lisboa


Wednesday, May 3

The final day of this trip began with some blogging whilst Marg was out for her daily exercises. The hills of Lisboa have certainly made us all fitter. According to a well known and reliable Curry Blog, we arrived at Radhuni at 12.30, the mission was to solve the mystery: did Marg and I eat each other’s Curry two nights back?

Thereafter it was a short walk north of Rua do Benformoso to a coffee shop that appeared worthy. Malabarista Café may have been simple in décor, but delivered. Such is our way, this venue could well be revisited on a future Lisboa trip.

Sensing that our fellow travellers could be melting, we arranged to meet for ice-cream at 15.00. Being Mr. Garrett’s birthday, where better than Amorino Lisboa Garrett? This involved a walk up the hill behind Baixa-Chiado, logically, it was downhill on the way back. In fact, we managed to avoid any serious hills thereafter. It’s almost as though someone knew what they were doing.

I don’t often get the chance to rave about hot melted Chocolate. I understand that this is how Chocolate was first consumed, by the elite who could afford it, before the fondant and Chocolate bar was invented. Yes, I have been to a Belgian Chocolate Museum, one has to keep Marg amused in the afternoons.

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Bier o’clock

The Beer Station had yet to be visited on this trip. Usually they have APA, not NEIPA, but one never knows.

As expected, the tap Bier was not setting the heather on fire, Tasters dismissed. The young lady serving produced a can: Captao Leitao (Dois Corvos, Lisboa), an Oat Cream NEIPA at 6.0%. With the full milkshake haze and full of Strata, Idaho 7 and Citra hops, there was a slight fruitiness, but it certainly did the job.

Having visited the Dois Corvos brewery taproom on our first visit to Lisboa, it was regarded as a bit of a hike, buses required. Why is it that only at the time of writing do I discover – Dois Corvos Intendente Taproom in downtown Lisboa? It’s en route to Sputnik Craft Beer, we must have walked past it!

Our day suddenly got a whole lot better. The charming lady produced another can, this time a collaboration: Slava Ukraini! (Ophiussa, Setabul, Portugal / The Bad Beaver, Kyiv, Ukraine). At 8.0%, this DDH DIPA had it all! The full milkshake haze was a result of Nelson Sauvin, Sabro, and Citra. And no, the Sabro was not in our faces, but was suitably subdued. This was a glorious Bier!

Logic suggests we should have stayed put, but not with the ladies in tow – we need food!

It was a short hop from Rossio back across to the cluster of restaurants east of Restauradores. Restaurante A Lota was our chosen venue for the last supper, more alfresco dining.

Eurofizz for the chaps, Maggie sneaked in a cocktail. Wot, no Mateus Rosé? The Hector was determined to finish the trip with another Big Pot, this time – Arroz no Tacho – Salmon & Prawns, a BIG it certainly was. We ate well, as is illustrated.

Knowing we would certainly need transport to the airport, the 24 hour ticket was renewed, and for the final time, we headed round to Terreiro do Paço and Outro Lado.

You think you know a place having been most nights, I was not prepared for our final evening in Lisboa. Tonight, no Polish NEIPA, instead I studied the fridge.  The top British brewers usually feature, Track (Manchester, England) being typical. Slava Ukraini! – was easy to spot, but that’s not where I started. Mein Host, Abdo, was now familiar, he suggested I try one of their own. Outro Lado now brew? They do, mostly strong Stouts/Porters as the board shows. These I had not paid attention to and so had not made the connection. Abdo produced a can.

Opheodrys (Aguarela-Outro Lado, Lisboa) –  NZ DIPA / NEDIPA, full of Nelson Sauvin and 8.0%! This was quite a demanding Bier, nothing nasty, just full on. If this is the future of Outro Lado, then we have an added dimension to visiting what is the finest bar in Lisboa.

With the airport in mind, this was not a late night, however, there had to be time for more cans: Slava Ukraini!

The brewery tap, bar, cafes and restaurants visited today:

The Beer Station  –  Largo duque de Cadaval 17 Quiosque D, 1200-160 Lisboa

Outro Lado – Beco do Arco Escuro 1, 1100-585 Lisboa

Malabarista Café – Specialty Coffee – R. Maria 66B, 1170-213 Lisboa,

Amorino Lisboa Garrett – Rua Garrett 49, 1200-203 Lisboa, Portugal

Restaurante A Lota – : Rua do Jardim do Regedor 15, 1150-193 Lisboa

RadhuniRua do Benformoso 155 A B, 1100-084 Lisboa

Posted in Almada, Lisboa | Comments Off on Lisboa – 2023 – Another Seven Days – April-May

Porto – Gaia – Portugal – The 2023 Birthday Trip

Monday, April 24

Glasgow Airport delivers a new route to Porto, Hector had to try this. Hopefully no more middle of the night rises for the easyJet flight from Edinburgh to Lisboa.

Unlike our arrival in Lisboa last year where it took more than one hour to clear Passport Control, Marg, Steve and Hector almost waltzed through Porto Airport. Having found the Metro station at the Airport, purchasing tickets was frustrating, not enough working machines. We were beckoned on to a waiting train to the city, a lovely chap was keen to show us the routes and Trindade interchange on the diagram. Hector has been here before, on the Athens Metro. The chap’s hands were hidden, suddenly the zip on the pocket containing my wallet was down. Zips & Chains: Hector now has a secondary line of security, the tug gave it away. He knew he had been foiled, tapped everyone else on the back and headed off to try elsewhere. Welcome to Porto!

We arrived at our accommodation directly outside São Bento terminus station. 22°C, this is why were were here. Suitably attired, it was back to the train station to purchase tickets for the onward journey to Lisboa on Thursday. Steve flies home from Porto on Friday. The tiled walls of São Bento were admired once more. Last year we took shelter from a downpour, no sign of rain today.

Hector led the troupe down Rua das Flores, the pedestrianised street which leads down towards the River Douro. There were cries of – need food – from my fellow travellers. Shaded tables were taken outside a cafe. A snack was the plan, dinner later. Special Hot-dog (€7.50)? I wondered what differentiated this from the standard €5 version. Now that I know, I strongly advise that people stay clear. A Frankfurter in a bun, however, Cheese and Ham were also present. Doesn’t sound too bad? Then smother in Tomato Soup, and put Fries on the side. For Hector, dinner was no longer a priority.

The walk along the north bank of the Douro is spectacular, the bridges and Gaia across the water. We agreed to leave the other side until tomorrow.

After the ritual photos, Marg required ice-cream. What a miserable portion. Steve and Hector had – Port.

Getting to the Douro is relatively simple, it’s downhill all the way. Getting back up, well, there are buses, however, no metro station is accessible without a steep climb. A new Metro line is under construction, this could take years. Porto badly needs a mass transit system to get people off the riverside

Knowing the lie of the land, Hector led the party beyond the Ponte Luis I to the queue at Funicular dos Guindas. €4.00 each, taking us up behind São Bento and the cathedral. No sweat, literally.

It was Bier o’clock. Two venues stood out that I had not spotted last year. Alvares Brewery Co. Taproom and Baobab – Craft Beer Bar. They are next door to each other on Rua do Almada to the north-west of Aliados Metro station. On the walk up, we passed Baixada Brewery & co on the same street. I have never found Baixada to be open.

The Alvares Taproom first. On examining the board, there was not much representation of Alvares Bier. Steve and Hector both had the tried and tested Urraca Vendval (8a Colina, Lisboa) 6.0% AIPA at source. The relatively high IBU registered on the palate, quite a departure from the string of Two by Two (Wallsend, England) and Almasty (Newcastle upon Tyne, England) NEIPAs we have been lucky too imbibe currently at The State Bar, Glasgow.

The young chap behind the bar was happy to discuss Bier. On asking after NEIPA, he led me to the fridge where there were some Alvares cans on display. The Lost City of El Dorado at 6.0%, featured Mosaic and El Dorado Hops, now we’re talking. Alas, there were only two cans of this Hazy IPA left in the fridge. Steve had something else, he missed out. This was easily the best Bier I have ever had in Porto.

Alvares‘ actual NEIPA was featured on posters, some empty cans were on display. What’s the story here, they don’t have their own Bier?

Trying to judge my companions resilience, I suggested we move next door, hopefully there would be a big and satisfying conclusion to the evening. The welcome at Baobab was warm. Marg spotted – one year – balloons. Baobab had just celebrated their first birthday. Suzy and Dendy from Slovakia, took the brave step of leaving their homeland to establish a business in the up and coming Craft Beer scene in Porto.  They confirmed that Alvares have been in situ less than a year. Marg insisted she had been there last year, QED. Somehow, the latter has been granted outdoor seating, Baobab has not, and there is encroachment. FYI: Baixada reportedly keep strange hours.

With eight taps and a varied board, the Double NEIPA stood out. Dance O(u)r Dance at 8.6% (IberWolf, Maia, Porto), a hazy gold, was almost muddy. There was nothing nasty here, which may be criterion #1, but after the Mosaic-laden IPA next door, this was not doing very much.

There was a fine display of Cans in the fridge, however, Steve and I both opted for the house Bier: Zimborka (Baobab- Barona, Porto), a 4.5% Sour. Cranberry Sour with Juniper, to be precise. Suitably – pink – this was not an in your face Sour. A decent palate cleanser between IPAs, something working at G-RAF has taught me over the years. G-RAF, I’ll have to make my mind up soon as to how many hours/days to commit to.

Tomorrow is a national holiday in Portugal – Freedom Day. Suzy and Dendy were taking a much needed day off. We promised to return on Wednesday.

Two minutes around the corner, with a walk which inevitably featured both up and down, lies A Fábrica da Picaria Cervejaria artisanal, my favourite venue from last time in Porto. Their 6.0% – Milkshake IPA – was the highlight last year. It was still posted on the board above the bar, but not on the side board. No Milkshake IPA. Instead a 6.0% APA which despite only being marginally hazy, packed a fruity punch.

With seats established through the back, the Bier kept coming. The nomenclature for the downstairs facilities amused last year. They have taken it down, boo!

I took on the younger of the serving chaps who I thought I had recognised. He spotted himself in the photos posted from last year. Wesley assured me that next week, Picaria will be brewing another Milkshake featuring Lactose. 

Not the conclusion to the evening I had hoped for. Had Alvares stocked more of the right Cans, I may have led my companions back there. Downhill on the way home, we could hear a major firework display. We arrived at Aliados to see the final flurry, a bit like Marg and Hector in Paris one Independence Day.


Tuesday, April 25

Marg was out exploring, exercising early. One cannot play hockey and not train. With Metro tickets recharged, we headed out to Sete Bicas and the Norte Shopping Mall where lies a Curry House. Chutnify (Prenzlauer Berg, Berlin) impressed, Chutnify Canteen in Porto did not. Read all about it!

We had arranged to meet Steve at Serra do Pilar, the white tower and viewpoint at Gaia. I saw no point in giving away our height advantage needlessly. Steve had been off on a boat trip and so had no choice but to climb the gorge wall. Somehow we arrived at the ramp up to Serra do Pilar simultaneously. Steve did admit he spent some time trying to find the way up the last bit.

The viewpoint is magnificent, and way better photos were secured today compared to last year. From there, we took a less obvious path down to the riverside. Port – was the objective. Taylor’s if our route took us far enough inland, otherwise Sandeman. These are the two we knew, however, at Sandeman’s what I had read online held. They’re only interested in hosting tours then sampling, no walk-ins. We found a table in the shade at a cafe next door to Sandeman’s. Beira Douro would satisfy our needs. Rather than pay for Port by the glass, the young waiter said he would declare the price of the bottle for each of the Ports listed. €17.50 for a bottle of Dalva – Ruby Porto at 19.0% seemed good value, especially being at a waterfront location.

Our waiter brought four glasses, one was for demonstration. We had ordered soft drinks also, the step count today was already significant. Marg did have a glass or so before ordering Coffee. Steve and Hector tore in.

This was the life, shade from the bright sunshine, Port at source, watching the river traffic, as well as being entertained by the passing musician. How does the reputation of Port differ from Buckfast and El Dorado? Better marketing!

Bier o’clock was approaching. Hector had a plan which avoided walking back uphill. Cask Beer is the only venue at sea level. It is of course back in Porto, a twenty minute walk was required. There were a few notes of discontent, Hector had another plan. Uber quoted €3.50 to take us to Cask Beer. This was a no brainer, another Uber could get us uptown later, sorted.

Jose was able to pick us up outside Beira Douro, anywhere else on the waterfront and this would not have been possible.

Due to the limited road crossings, Jose had to drive upstream to the next high bridge, by this time his music had stimulated conversation. Marg asked if he had heard – Pendragon. His phone was passed back, alas another artist called Pendragon was broadcast. Hang on: Arena’s – Hanging Tree (Clive Nolan plays keyboards in both bands) popped up. We were treated to this eight minute epic from Marg’s favourite Prog album. Thereafter the algorithm took over. Some Fish, then Road of Bones (IQ) appeared on the dashboard, another eight minutes. Yes we were well stuck in traffic, every junction a bottleneck. Walking would have been quicker. We were dropped of at Cask Beer eventually, I promised Jose a tip. Uber charged us another €3.50 due to the unexpected length of the journey in terms of time. Porto needs to get its transport system in order.

Cask Beer had only been open a matter of days when Hector and Marg visited last year. Mein Host welcomed us, but did not remember our visits. Today, a choice of NEIPAs. Steve went Spanish, Hector back to Berlin. FrauGruber’s Hop Madley at 6.5% appeared to be right up Hector’s tree. After the Port, it took a time to taste anything significant. Another proved to be more rewarding.

Steve was settling in. Marg was having Lindemann’s Framboise one of the few Biers she likes. Hector had two more venues in mind, close to each other, but across town, and very much uphill. Another Uber was ordered. I watched it approach on the app, then stop. No communication was forthcoming. Eventually I discovered an issue with the processing of Jose’s tip. Hector had been frozen out. Time for another Bier.

This time, Hector went Spanish, Steve had been enjoying Boat Drinks (Basqueland Brewing Project, Espana). At 6.0%, another full on milkshake hazy NEIPA which I found to be sweeter than its Berlin counterpart.

Food was ordered, Marg got herself Ribs, Chicken Wings for Hector. Whatever a Black Burger is, Steve had it. I might wake up tomorrow with feathers.

Armazémda Ceveria has only been visited briefly, around the corner lies Letraria Porto where fun appears to be guaranteed. Well it was our local last year, being close to the Ibis. Given the passage of time, I declared Letraria as our next venue. Another Uber was summoned, there was no problem apart from the driver not being able to find the low road on which Cask Beer is sited. Away she went, back she came. And what a route to Letraria, we saw another part of the city not seen before. With SatNav in vogue, presumably the optimum route was taken. Porto needs to sort out its road network. Still, €6.28 between three, not a problem.Two chaps were behind the bar in the otherwise quiet premises.

Letraria has most of its seating downstairs where there is a duplicate set of taps. Twenty four taps, five possibly – in the style. Tasters were forthcoming, Rebendita (Letra, Braga, Portugal) at 6.0%, a Milkshake IPA became the final Bier of the day. We had another.

Downstairs we went, with the door to the garden open it was a bit chilly. Back upstairs, the only low table was occupied by a chap with a laptop. It turned out he was – The Boss – and was doing the accounts. There was no interaction despite being propped at the window beside him for a good hour or so. A pity. Rather than take the Metro home, it was decided, by others, that we would walk. Fortunately it was all downhill. En route we passed Fábrica Nortada, a brewpub I visited last year and a possible venue to watch tomorrow’s football.


Wednesday, April 26

Today, the Bus Tour of Porto. Marg had sourced the information from an agent across from the accommodation. €22.00 for a twenty four hour ticket. Do the buses run all night?

Having bought the tickets, I insisted we have a snack before embarking into the unknown. Marg took me to a cafe opposite São Bento in which she had coffee earlier. Mornings? Marg goes for exercise, Hector writes up this stuff.

The first half hour of the Bus Tour covered the area we had seen last night in our taxis tours. Sitting upstairs in the open, it was time for – the hat – securely attached, of course.

As we headed westwards through Boavista, it became apparent that the commentary was out of sync with events happening. What tower, what office? I think it is fair to say that away from the gorge, Porto ain’t all that interesting. Boavista, we didn’t even see the stadium.

We alighted at the furthest extremity of the tour and walked back to the next pickup point, along Praia de Matosinhos. Hector put a finger in the Atlantic, enough already.

We could see the next bus and so did not dally at the castle – Forte de São Francisco Xavier. We considered alighting at the next castle – Fortaleza São João da Foz, but could see nobody in it from our vantage point.

So back along the coast road, the Tourist Tram ran parallel, this may be as good as any means of getting our to the west of Porto and the beaches. The 500 Bus, even easier.

As we approached the city centre, it was matter of finding a new Bier venue. Gulden Draak Bierhuis Porto was in the right part of town, the same locale as the cluster of Bier houses visited on Monday night. I let Steve know our plans.

Alighting at São Bento which restored our altitude, we went to see Mr. Garrett’s Statue in daylight. A pity that Porto’s main square is in such disarray, but as  I may have hinted, the new Metro line is much needed.

The tap Bier at Gulden Draak was either not for Hector or OTT Tripels. Tripel Van De Garre (De Garre, Brugge, Belgien) at a mere 11.5%, has been had oft at source since 1997. It did take almost two hours to drink, but as we were the only customers at the 17.00 opening time, who cared?

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Marg and Hector were having Portuguese food tonight. Lagostim, visited last year, proved to be good value, even for the wine. Steve was waiting outside for us as they opened at 19.00.

What of Steve today? Having decided not to join us for the Bus Tour, he changed his mind and so was around an hour behind us. He concurred with the poverty of information and synchronisation.

At Lagostim, Steve had Steak, Marg – Salmon – and Hector – Duck. All very Portuguese. The Mateus Rose most certainly was.

With F.C. Porto playing away from home in a Cup semi-final, I decided to abandon plans to go to Nortada. I needed a Sports Bar. Bonaparte Downtown appeared to tick the boxes, it was not far away, and I had a fall back.

Now the story gets bizarre. Dr. Alasdair and Mags from Carnoustie arrived in town today with two other couples. For a change, I didn’t have to feed all of Carnoustie. I managed to have them check Bonaparte, the match was on. As expected, Manchester City – thrashed – Arsenal, or so Sky News would later describe.

Bonaparte was a – pub – selling Guinness, but without try to be a – Plastic Paddy – outfit. Nay flags, interesting wall adornments instead. Just like every pub back home, as foreigners see it.

Born in the IPA (Musa, Lisboa, Portugal) has been had oft, even at source. A 6.5% IPA, it is a darker gold and has a refreshing Citrus flavour, West Coast in style, but not extreme. Dr. Alasdair was drinking Paulaner Weizen (München, Bayern), his friends, the local Super Bock.

There was a degree of catching up, it is some two weeks since Marg and I were in Carnoustie. It was only then we realised that there was an overlap in our schedules. Cool dudes are in Porto in April.

The Five Doctors and Mags were fetched by an Uber, Steve was for calling it a night, then a G&T appeared. Still hoping for some more – real Bier – I suggested we walk up to Baobab with Alvares Taproom as a fallback. Baobab was open, staffed by Suzy alone, Alvares was shut. The lights were on at Baixada, but of course, the door was locked, despite the TV being still on and nobody at home.

The night cap was a Coconut Maple Imperial Stout – Coconuts (Lerwig, Norge) at 12.5%. This was everything it claimed to be. I showed Suzy the page I had already posted on Bier-Traveller, she was well pleased, and why not? One can tell that Baobab is going to become an institution in Porto.

No fireworks tonight, just the short walk downhill to São Bento. Tomorrow:

Lisboa – 2023 – Another Seven Days – April – May

The Brew Pubs, Taprooms and Bars visited:

Alvares Brewery Taproom   –  Rua do Almada 383, 4000-303 Porto

Baobab – Craft Beer Bar  –  Rua do Almada 377, 4000-303 Porto

A Fábrica da Picaria Cervejaria artisanal  –  Rua da Picaria 72, 4050-477 Porto

Cask Beer  –  Rua da Armenia 54, 4050-066 Porto

Letraria Porto  –  Rua da Alegria 101, 4000-042 Porto

Gulden Draak Bierhuis Porto – R. de José Falcão N. 82, 4050-315 Porto

Bonaparte Downtown – Praça Guilherme Gomes Fernandes 40, 4050-150 Porto

Beira Douro – Av. De Diogo Leite 242, 4430-999 Villa Nova de Gaia

A recommended restaurant

Lagostim – Praca D. Filips de Lencastre 200, 4050-260 Porto


Posted in Porto-Gaia | Comments Off on Porto – Gaia – Portugal – The 2023 Birthday Trip

München-Andechs-Bamberg-Forchheim-Berlin + Bieres Sans Frontieres – 2022 A.G.M.

Bieres Sans Frontieres (B.S.F.), is an ad hoc group created by those who work at the so called – Foreign Bar – at British – CAMRA – organised beer festivals. Hector may only have worked once at that London’s GBBF in 2016, however, the right to be has been earned by working at the Paisley Beer Festival since the 1990s and subsequently – G-RAF – the Glasgow Real Ale Festival. No more acronyms.

When the late Jonathan Kemp announced that this year’s – B.S.F.-A.G.M. – was being held in Bamberg, Dr. Stan plus Lord Clive and Lady Maggie of Crawley, decided we had to be there. On our last trip to Bamberg in November 2022, we watched the relay of Jonathan’s funeral, he was meant to be on that trip, and this one…

Wednesday, March 29

Today Hector flew from Edinburgh to München, touching down at the same time that Dr. Stan was arriving at München Hauptbahnhof. Clive and Maggie had arrived on a red eye from Gatwick and were allowed to check in at their Ibis at 10.30. I suggested that as they had already purchased the M-5 Zone day ticket, they take advantage and go to Kloster Andechs. They decided we should all go tomorrow.

For Hector, the first thing after hotel check in at München is Curry at Indian Mango (Isartor). I had calculated a 19.00 rendezvous on the fear that the post Brexit passport checks would take up to an hour. However, a quick exit from the ‘plane saw the Hector clear immigration in a near instant. The only hold up being the – why are you here?

Bier, Urlaub – was the simple answer.

Now it gets difficult, the others had installed themselves at Augustiner Stammhaus and intended to make the original rendezvous. Hector was forty minutes ahead of schedule. It was suggested I join them, then we go to Isartor. Knowing the situation well, I bypassed Augustiner, and went for Fisch Chettinad. In the meantime, Dr. Stan and Clive had done the inevitable and succumbed to that which passes for food in Deutschland.

Around 19.30, Hector arrived at Augustiner, a Helles (5.2%) was quickly ordered. Dr, Stan has convinced me over the years that this is the better start, Edelstoff (5.6%) can wait. A ritual that actually began in Berlin at Augustiner am Gendarmenmarkt.

Always light and refreshing, it’s good to refamiliarise oneself with – Helles – a style ignored for a long time during Hector’s era of – nothing but Weizen.

Clive and Maggie were on the Edelstoff already, well for a while. Maggie thinks she can drink Bier, well she can, but not very much. Her logic is that spirits will not fill her up. With no Brandy to her choice, or anything else apparently, she opted for Vodka with Cola on the side, to mix.

Women do this, i.e. drink Vodka when they don’t actually like it. I know, I first poured this in a pub back in 1974.

Edelstoff, aka Paisley Pop, definitely has more of a kick, however, given that 6.0% plus has become the – Session abv – during/since Lockdown, this feels quite manageable. Any thoughts of an early departure were thwarted by Hector having to be sated by both the Helles then the Edelstoff.

 

 

 

At our time of departure, the Crawley Royalty were heading back to Dachauer Strasse, by tram, the Bad Boys headed round to Andechser am Dom.

Bad Boys? We have our ritual wind-up.

Es gibt ihren Spezial Hell Heute?

 

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As described on another post, one night we actually struck it lucky, Elke, the former manageress at the original venue, sold us some from a private party downstairs. Tonight we – settled – for the Bergbock Hell. At 6.9% much heftier than the Spezial Hell (5.8%). I’m actually surprised that the Bergbock Hell is their regular Bier on tap, one could do damage here.

Sense prevailed, back to the Bier that first got me into Andechs Bier – Weissbier Hell (5.5%). Another ritual is the artistic photography, no candles tonight, a strange illumination, the flowers are different.

Thursday, March 30

Yes, it has gone midnight, and we are still here. For the first time in my visits to the new premises, the upstairs was busy, perhaps this prolonged the service? I saw a semi-familiar face lead some suits upstairs.

That’s Sepp – Dr. Stan informed me.

Sepp, the owner of this franchise, had his photos adorn the walls of the previous premises. There is seemingly nobody that Sepp has not had his photo taken with, except Dr. Stan and Hector, until tonight. There are times one has to be Gallus. The manager – Alan (?) – led us outside, the portal has been retained from the original premises, it was here the deed was done.

As we returned to finish our Bier, so Brigitte, the manageress, was standing at our table with a 10l Fass of Spezial Hell.

I remember you!

We were informed that this is always available to purchase. We did manage 20l over two nights at Silvester in pre Covid days. One needs the mouths, and four on this trip is not enough, well 3.5.

And so back to the Hotel Royal, an oft visited lodging which has priced itself out of consideration in recent years. A few weeks ago, I spotted a single room at an affordable price. Fortunately I was able to cancel my booking across the river. Who now books accommodation that cannot be cancelled in these times?

Going to bed at 01.00 is the Hector norm, except tonight it wasn’t really. The clocks went forward three nights back, this afternoon, another hour. The result, no sleep for Hector. Street noise did not help, and the room was so hot the window had to be open.

Being part of – the wide awake club -, there was coffee and yoghurt around 09.00.

One egg was – un oeuf.

Still no sleep thereafter.

I met Clive and Maggie at noon for Curry, except they appeared to have forgotten the arrangement. Coffee and a bag of food had been bought for the journey to Kloster Andechs,

Lamm Chettinad at Indian Mango first.

Dr. Stan was waiting at Hauptbahnhof, or what remains of it, for the train to Tutzing. This connects with a bus to Andechs, today, it didn’t. Having crawled along the west side of Stanberger See, our train was well late. Maybe it’s safer to take the S Bahn on the outward journey to Herrsching.

We had an unplanned fifty minutes in the coffee shop opposite Tutzing Bahnhof. Sheltering from the rain became the priority. How long can one make a Coffee last?

Spezial Hell (5.8%) at last, and at such a wonderful price, €4.00 for a half felt like a bargain when compared to what pays for Craft Beer. Once enough Curry had been digested, Apfel Strudel was ordered, we have our rituals.

Doppelbock Dunkel (7.1%) has a definite sweetness, but well, why not?

The far room, where we usually sit, was quiet for most of the afternoon. The main room was always buzzing. Nobody outside, because of the rain, but it did clear early evening. No merchandise on sale, Tegernsee could teach Kloster Andechs so much.

 

 

With closing time looming, it was back on the bus to Tutzing which does arrive early enough to guarantee the train back to München. And there are toilets on the train, which the S Bahn does not have.

Where next? – asked Clive.

Dr. Stan used to hate the Hofbräuhaus, yesterday, he admitted that he now quite enjoys it. Since – pop – music was ditched in favour of Bayerische Classics, the atmosphere has changed dramatically. The smoking ban also helped.

€10.40 for a litre of Helles, city centre prices. The Hofbräuhaus finally serve half litres which traditionally they refused to do. I was the only one having the litre, though Dr. Stan soon regretted not doing so, he caught up.

Tonight’s band had a dominant horn player, I prefer the smooth blend the various instrument make in harmony. I wonder how Rheinhold Frank is? 1976, the first year I set foot in the Hofbräuhaus, a lifetime ago. I always preferred the Löwenbräu at the Mathäser, and the dimensions of the other Bierhalle.

Another early night, no sleep at all.

Friday, March 31

With buses running from Nürnberg to Bamberg, there was no point investing in an ICE, a Bayern Ticket would suffice. In the coming days, a €49 ticket is being introduced which lasts a month and is valid on all transport across the nation, except of course EC/IC/ICE. Any five day trip to Deutschland should surely make this ticket worthwhile. The experimental €9.00 month-long ticket last summer was wonderful, but not sustainable.

Arriving first at the Hauptbahnhof, the first person I met was Doug. He had been travelling with another group and was now headed to Bamberg using an Inter Rail ticket which is valid on IC trains. This was almost the case in the 1970s, Zuschlag – . an early word I learned in Deutsch.

A fleet of buses was waiting on the west side of Nurnberg Hbf to take us to Bamberg etc. Hector caught up with some blogging, the Doris behind me spoke non-stop for one hour. Hell is other people – a famous philosopher once said.

Having checked in at the Ibis Altstadt, it was time to head out. Spezial is always where we start. In fact such rituals are why I feel I do not have to Blog every trip. Lagerbier (4.7%) is a gentle wake up to the palate for what follows at Schlenkerla. Light and Smokey, but not intensely so, always more-ish, yet we rarely stay past the litre.

Graham and Sarah walked in and recognised me from previous B.S.F. encounters. They had little choice but to sit with me, one feature of Spezial and Keesmann is that tables are often reserved. Sometimes, one simply does not get in. Maybe one has to accept that more planning is becoming required to guarantee access. Online apps?

Clive and Maggie had not shown, the latter – indisposed. We crossed the road to Fässla, Doug was there with John, a first encounter. Lagerbier (5.5%) was ordered, no smokiness here, just a simple Helles. Food was ordered, Wiener Schnitzel, which I shall claim as being Austrian. Unfortunately, because I was not forceful enough, I ended up with Pommes. Real chips I can handle occasionally, and only if smothered in mayonnaise.

Clive and Maggie eventually showed and after a Bier it was declared time for our group of six to move west along the same street to Bräuerei Landwinkl. First visited in November last year, Landwinkl was immediately declared the best of the new brewhouses which have appeared in Bamberg in recent years. Packed last time, this time we had a choice of tables and so located ourselves at the first table on entry.

The friendly chap from November was not on duty, tonight, an equally accommodating Doris. For Hector, the A Rauchigs, a 5.4% smoked Bier which I put flavour-wise, between Spezial’s – Lagerbier and Schlenkerla’s – Märzen. This means it is certainly a worthy Bier. Others had the A Hells and A Brauns, next time maybe, always leave something new to try.

Maggie, who somehow was Biered-out already, sent Clive up to the bar to negotiate a Brandy and Cola. He returned with a half litre glass of JD and Cola, the Bourbon being just under half of the volume. At the time of paying, Clive was very happy with what he had ben charged for Maggie’s cocktail. With the Bier being charged at €3.70 per half litre, Bamberg remains a happy hunting ground.

It was time to move to Schlenkerla else there would be little point. Google Maps showed a bus back to the ZOB, technically halfway. Clive and Maggie were calling it a night, the ZOB is minutes from the Ibis Altstadt, and a Kebap Shop. With their accommodation nearer the station, there was little point Doug and John joining us. The München Four stood at the bus stop for some ten minutes, nay bus. So not only in Glasgow do buses not show as per timetable.

Dr. Stan and Hector crossed the Main-Donau Kanal via the Löwenbrücke bridge which lies to the west of the town centre and managed to reach Am Krannen ahead of schedule. The Rathaus built on the Obere Brücke is the picture postcard Bamberg scene. Who still sends postcards? As with the München Rathaus, Bamberg’s was not illuminated, all to do with saving energy whilst the needless conflict in Ukraine continues.  With reference to Valkyrie, part of an historical conflict,  the once vandalised Staufenberg memorial has been replaced.

We were given the small table up the stairs to the right, a bit of a squeeze, at least we were in. A 23.30 official closing was anticipated, we got some Märzen in. At a mere 5.1%, the Märzen is much lighter (sic) than the 6.5% Urbock. Maybe not as smooth, but still as smokey. An acquired taste, and for those of us who enjoy it, a fine way to end the evening.

Hector was last to leave the building, and not for the first time.

Saturday, April 1

Today was the day of the A.G.M., I have previously attended parts of the ones held in Sheffield and Barcelona. 12.30 at Brauhaus Zum Sternla, another of the three new venues to have appeared in Bamberg in recent years. 12.30, too early for Bier as far as Hector was concerned. Arriving punctually, I was shown to the back room which notionally had been reserved for our group of twenty four. Except, there would be more non – B.S.F. – people in the room, families, weans, who organised this?

Having made one visit to Sternla in April last year, Hector was in no rush to return. Then we were forced to sit out in the cold and damp entry room with a crowd of louts. The main room had – reserved – tables, for whom and when? Whatever, they were not for letting us sit there. The Bier did not impress, another reason for having lemonade today. So last year they could protect those seats, not today.

Kerr did his best to chair the meeting, Jim, in his absence, was given special duties. Jim too was missed on this trip, he would no doubt have driven over with Jonathan to collect Bier from the Hinterland. Those days have sadly gone. There was a toast to Jonathan.

Maggie was having a day off, a pity because she has not met The Berlin Ladies. Yes, Bruna, Bianca and Marina had travelled down for the day with Colin the – associate – of Bräugier (Berlin). The rendezvous was Klosterbräu which the Hector has not visited in ten years, basically, not a fan of their Bier either. However, today was the start of a two day Rauchbier-fest.

The majority of the B.S.F. chaps and chapattis would end up at Klosterbräu, along with half of the population of Bamberg, so it felt. There were no tables available in the main room, we took our Bier from the hatch in the entrance hallway which fortunately now has glass insulation. Not so warm in Deutschland this April, yet.

The 5.4% Rauchbier proved to be suitably palatable. There was a sense of Hops coming through the smokiness, – almost as smokey as Schlenkerla – was noted.

The Berlin Four joined us at the Stehplatz, introductions were made. Derek, founder of Kelburn Brewery, Ian, the stalwart of Ayrshire CAMRA, and Colin #2, my – boss – at G-RAF and Paisley. Bruna knew the main waiter in Klosterbräu and used her influence to get a table. In time we were all seated, but then Kerr, Derek et al disappeared, glasses in hand, to where?

The first comfort break revealed all. Klosterbräu now have an additional room, and a vast one at that. A former lagering room has been turned into a – Bier Keller – in the British misuse of that term. Why this was not made available earlier remains a mystery.

Colin #2 sat with us, Sam too and Sarah, his mother, briefly. The Rauchbier was going down well, this was easily the best afternoon I’ve ever had at Klosterbräu.

The Berliners sought food, Hector was so close to Schlenkerla going anywhere seemed silly, however, we were summoned to a restaurant by the other B.S.F. Members.

Clive, Dr. Stan and Hector went in one direction, the Berliners another. Colin #2 led us up the hill to Stöhrenkeller which serves Thai food at weekends. Up the hill, something I try to avoid in Bamberg hence the limited visits to Greifenklau.

All seats in the room were taken, a waitress advised us that our friends would be departing soon, the next bookings were due We had a Bier in the hallway, in time all would pass us en route to the facilities.

Kellerbier 5.2% (Gänstaller Braumanufaktur, Deutschland), yellow, with a slight haze. The customary – Kellerbier shock – was not present, the palate immediately adjusted, with an appropriate body, a decent Bier.

Downhill to Schlenkerla, the others mentioned – Pelikan – Dr. Stan, Clive and Hector stuck to our guns.  Evidenty, the majority followed.

Sat in the room to the right, Dr. Stan admitted that he did not like the main room to the left as one enters. We have rarely sat there, now I know why, it has only taken twenty five years. In time, The Berlin Four joined us, more Märzen.

Our waitress said she remembered me from previous visits, she took the – selfie – Hector cannot abide them. We were well looked after.

At closing time, Hector was definitely in the zone, more Bier. Walking westwards to Das Pelikan, last visited in 2015, I passed previous late night haunts, they were busy. Das Pelikan was remarkably quiet.

We were indeed the last men standing, and a new Bier was had.

Mönschambacher Export 5.2% (Brauerei Zehnder, Burgerach, Bayern) was a gold, full bodied Helles. After a day on Rauchbier, easy drinking.

 

 

 

 

 

I managed not to buy a Kebap on the way home.

Sunday, April 2

There was talk yesterday of an organised tour of nearby Breweries. I know not who was doing the – organising – in the end, it was not to be. With Keesmann closed on a Sunday, there was no point heading to Wunderburg. Hector always had Forchheim in mind, this idea appeared to trickle through the B.S.F. party.

Before Bier, there had to be Bunkers. If there was going to be a Curry in Bamberg, today was the day. The history of Curry in this town is complex. Mainstream, at best, is all one can hope for. The account of the visit to Ganesha Tandoori is written.

On previous outings from Bamberg there has always been a local group ticket for the train. The ticket machine was not giving this. Return tickets are not a feature of European travel, the UK is soon to abandon them. The queue at the ticket office, staffed by two, would mean missing the train. Individual tickets were purchased from the machine by Dr. Stan, Clive and Maggie, Hector used the DB app and saved a few Pfennigs. Yes, Maggie was back out to play.

Being unable to walk at a snail’s pace, the Hector strode off on arrival at Forchheim, there was a market outside the Rathaus and consequently in front of the two remaining brewery taps on this stretch. Hebendanz first, Colin #2, Graham and Sarah were in situ, others had just departed for the Kellers.

Märzen at 5.2% comes from a bottle, I was led to believe that this Bier is available in March and October, a dual Festbier. Yellow-gold in colour, apart from the slight sweetness, this was a fine Helles style Bier.

Clive ordered this when he arrived, Maggie and Dr. Stan took the Export Hell, 5.0%. This was Bier #2 for Hector. There was no sense of sweetness here, maybe the better choice.

The Stammtisch was loud, exceptionally so. A mixed group, the level of hilarity mid afternoon suggesting a good session. One chap did the translating, the old chap serving appeared not to understand our pronunciation of – anything. In time, the duty Doris took over, better service.

The München Four headed next door to Neder, the remaining three to Kellerwald. The serving Doris at Neder sent me through to the back, the main door was out of action. Initially I thought she meant the room was full and we would have to be served outside at the rear, fortunately not. Half of a large table adjacent to the serving area was secured. A young group of chaps asked permission to occupy the remainder.

Kellerbier at 4.9% is presumably what we had. Having drunk this since 1997, a well established experience, especially on Annafest visits. Annafest, it has ben a while, however, the Bamberg area in summer can be hectic. Somehow, Maggie was Biered-out already. Something with Cola was acquired, but not Asbach Brandy, that she cannot abide, unless…

Facing the barrels, I saw the serving chap half fill a two litre boot with Bier. He then poured in the equivalent of a quarter bottle of Asbach. To that a Cherry Liqueur., then more Bier to fill the glass. Where was this monstrosity headed?

The chaps beside us had ordered this creation. I asked permission to take a photo, granted, but on one condition. At least in this post Covid era, it was The München Four who got to drink first from the boot.

Gaosmoas! – not too shabby, the Kirsche dominated, a pleasant fruity sweetness. One sip was enough. In fact they asked if we were actually drinking and not adding to the glass. Whatever triggered the ordering of this – cocktail – it was quickly consumed and the chaps moved on, as did we.

Hirschaid next and Braueri Kraus. At Forchheim Bahnhof we met up with the Keller chaps including Jason, a Bamberg resident. Doug decided to join us once more. A few minutes later we alighted at Hirschaid, the station us still under renovation, so a longer walk to Kraus.

We were invited to sit to the left, not on the main drinking room to the right. Usually we stop off here in November for the Bock, today, the Helles at 4.7% would suffice, though Dr. Stan had something seasonal, perhaps to his sorrow. The Helles was – harmless.

Dinner time for Dr. Stan, Soup only for Hector, a token gesture. Kebap later, vielleicht.

I don’t know if the lady Host remembered us from November, her Deutsch was relentless, confirmation that Hector’s is evaporating. In Berlin spricht man Englisch.

I approached the other serving lady, translation in hand, to arrange a taxi back to Bamberg, and straight to Schlenkerla. That worked. For the reason described previously, Doug took the train.

At Schlenkerla, the room on the right, more Märzen, same serving Doris. Hunger declared, I advised Maggie as to which Meat & Cheese Platter to order. Advice ignored, what she got was not what she wanted, but was what she asked for. So it goes.

Being our third night, the staff knew we would depart, but not until the end. In the otherwise empty room, their last hour was relaxing, many people have work on a Monday.

An early night for Hector and there was a Kebap.

Monday, April 3

The morning was spent composing suitable words for Curry-Heute. Food of another type was had for lunch, the fifth day and the avoidance of Deutsche Essen continues.

Today’s rendezvous was – Mahrs at 15.00. For the first time in this trip, blue skies, but even lower temperatures, spring this was not. There was the opperchancity to take the classic photos of the Rathaus over the Regnitz.

As I approached Wunderburg I overtook Clive and Maggie:

You’ll never be at Mahrs for opening time walking at that pace.

They weren’t, Hector was first in and took the same seat at the same table that has been occupied for many a visit.

Your’e sitting alone, in the dark? – the Doris remarked in Deutsch.

I assured her I had three friends coming – sofort.  She switched on the lights.

In all previous occupancies of this seat I have ordered – A-U – Jonathan and Dr. Stan among others had convinced me that his was – the Bier – to have. Today, I ordered the Helles. At 4.9%, yellow, clear and sharp, but probably from a keg. This was decidedly more-ish, as Dr. Stan confirmed when he eschewed the Ungespundet. He too thinks – A-U – has had its day.

The room filled, by 18.00 it was time for us to think about crossing the road. I did a recce to Keesmann, all tables booked. Clive repeated my action, same conclusion. Undeterred , the four of us hopped across the street. Frau Keesmann recognised us, tried to fit us in, three yes, four not possible. And so to Spezial.

Arriving first, I thought I had a table, but misread my own watch. It is an annoying feature of certain venues that they accept bookings and block off virtually the entire room. At Augustiner am Gendarmenmarkt (Berlin) I now have the app to book in advance, research needed for Bamberg.

Fässla was open, but again all tables occupied/reserved. We squeezed on to the table in the lobby. More Lagerbier.

It became apparent that we had an adjacent inebriate the management were trying to evict. He could hardly speak, never mind walk, however, from somewhere his English became fluent. Many apologies, he departed, but still tried to get back in.

To my left sat a couple from USA, Andrew and Natalie. They met in Bamberg some years back on their tours of duty. With both Clive and Maggie having offspring who have served, the conversation blossomed, such that when I declared it time to move to Schlenkerla, they caught up with us there.

A pleasant end to the four days in Bamberg. Somehow, today we did not encounter any of the remaining B.S.F. crowd.

Tuesday, April 4

Dr. Stan headed west to Brussel via Köln. Clive and Maggie went south to München Flughafen, Hector headed north,  Berlin calling. A timeous ICE had me at Berlin Hbf in time for the 15.00 at Ibis Mitte check-in, from there, the U Bahn to Osloer Strasse. In November 2022, Hector finally located the Punjabi Cuisine only previously dreamt of in Berlin. Today was Visit #4 to Punjabi Zaiqa.

Having arranged to meet Colin at  Bräugier for 20.00, I had time for a quick half at Protokoll. Michel was not on duty, his lady colleague duly looked after me. A quick look at the board, there was a NEIPA which shouted loud and clear

Icons of Summer, 6.6%, my first Craft Beer of the trip, and the first with US Hops. There was an instant – Wow! The Hops I have yet to identify, the fruitiness, a sheer tropical delight, was in the face. This was a stunning Bier, so good, I had another.

My usual Berlin model is Bräugier one night, Protokoll the next, to tear oneself away was difficult. Why did I not book my flight back a day later? I cannot believe what I paid for tomorrow’s flight to Edinburgh, pre budget airline prices, maybe sense prevailed. There’s a holiday weekend approaching.

You’re early – was Colin’s greeting. We sat at the corner of the bar, Colin remains puzzled that the Berliners do not do this, always a table. That is how they are traditionally served.

The board showed three Hazy IPAs, Wrath of ? – I first had almost a year ago to the day. At 6.5%, described, by me, as Goddam-Zilla’s little brother, there is no further accolade required. And this was after Icons of Summer.

At the weekend, Colin predicted I should like Artificial Stupidity, a new release. At 6.6% the perfect abv. However, there was initially a shocking aftertaste which soon subsided. With five Hops, this was a complex Bier, Mosaic was in there, so all was well. I could have been happy with this but decided to try another newbie.

HopGPT at a mere 6.0% had a great hop balance. This was easy drinking, smooth on the palate, safe even. I went – large – then stuck with this for the rest of the evening.

Bruna arrived after a work related event. Glasgow, Bamberg, Berlin all within a two week period. Ironically, when Bruna and Colin visit Scotland later in the year, Hector will most likely be away!

Marg, Hector, Colin and Bruna do have something special planned for August!

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Jonathan Kemp R.I.P.

17.04.1970 – 28.10.2022

It was with shock and great sadness that the family informed us of the passing of our dear friend Jonathan.

I first met Jonathan at the Bon Accord (Glasgow) some twenty years ago on his return from work duties in Aberdeen, a Procurator Fiscal, a handy person to know. Clearly an educated man, we exchanged discoveries in the world of Progressive Rock.

The München  Okotoberfest was his – big thing, so unsurprisingly, on my retiral, we were able to visit midweek, as Jonathan always insisted was better. I may have introduced him to Buttenheim, but it was he who led the way to the Bock Tappings.

buttenheim-lowenbrau-bock-bier-traveller-16GRAF Day1 bier-traveller (25)The Glasgow Real Ale Festival (G-RAF) would never have been resurrected in 2014 without Jonathans’ drive and input. Since then, Johnathan has gone on to hold office for CAMRA, the Campaign for Real Ale.

Additionally, he was a key player in BSF – Bieres Sans Frontieres – us chaps who serve at the Foreign Bar at CAMRA festivals.

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That I am able to post this page at all, is down to Johnathan. One morning in München, he came down to breakfast and informed us that he had launched a Blog – Bier-Today.  Hector was given co-authoring rights. From this evolved Curry-Heute, Jonathan contributed one post for Shenaz (Glasgow). 

In time Bier-Traveller was launched in which Jonathan would regularly feature. Our final trip together was in September 2022, Het Waterhuis aan de Bierkant remained a favourite venue, a fitting place for the last photos I would take.

Our thoughts are with the family, whom we all know well.

Antwerpen Centraal, September 2022.

(to be continued…)

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Kraków – A Tale of Two Piwo & A Scottish £5 Note

Yes, it is exactly one month since Hector left Polska, that was for the Riverside tour, this weekend we see the reformed Porcupine Tree perform in Katowice. It is far easier to secure tickets for such concerts abroad than it is to deal with the corrupt ticket agents in the UK.

Bier-Traveller, a Blog, however the reporting of day to day activities has become quite rare. It simply would take all my time to keep this up to date, as if anyone was really interested. Instead, I have focussed on the information on the drop-down menu above, e.g. all you need to know about Kraków is there.

Usually we stay in Kazimierz, however, our apartment arranged via Booking.com, declared themselves overbooked. We were bumped, despite having paid already. Ibis to the rescue, the one at the main train station where we stayed in our first visits to Kraków.

Arriving at J2P2 Airport, the plan was take the train into the city, not one sign showed the locus of the station. Instead, it was easier to take Bus 208 (or 300) to the city. The 208 passes the Ibis, yay.

Marg had to be amused before the serious business of the day was underway. Pierogarnia Krakowiacy provided the traditional Polish Cuisine that was sought. Fear not, there should be Curry tomorrow. Golabki for Hector, accompanied by Bread and Dripping with Gherkin.

All good except there was a worrying aftertaste from the Gherkins, not Kosher. Marg had a concoction in a loaf, not really what she wanted, but what she got. Two ladies at the next table table had the filled loaf plus Pierogi, to their sorrow.

Coffee and Cake had to follow, Hector going the extra mile to ensure the lady was amused. Cakester Cafe provided the necessaries despite the fact they were closing at 20.00, we had twenty minutes. Hector’s cake must have been Vegan/Gluten Free or a throwback to the Communist era: all taste removed. This was among the blandest food ever eaten.

Cakester on Tomasza, a venue we had visited before but branded differently. Tomasza, home to 4-4-2, the Sports-bar already showing this evening’s early kick-offs in the Champions League. Napoli v Rangers to come, played before Napoli fans only as a consequence of the passing of the Queen. After last week’s thrashing by Liverpool, maybe we wouldn’t bother.

Through the Rynek in Stare Miasto, Marg recognised the route to Multi Qlti where OnTap.pl reported, there were two choices of interest.

We don’t do tasters – I was firmly informed.

One of my choices had gone, so a small NEIPA was ordered, along with Bacardi & Coke for Marg. What?

Tank Busters (Polska) – The Book of Hops at 5.8% turned out to be excellent, a – Large – was purchased moments later. At £3.48 great value. The Book of Hops has the full milkshake haze and gives off a big, smooth hop hit. Most importantly, what I called – The Polish aftertaste – was absent. Oftentimes, Craft Piwo has this, it can be tolerated, but it’s better when it’s not there at all. For the record, I had Time to Fly, a DIPA at 7.0% by the same brewery at Biala Malpa (Katowice) last year, it too was sound. A brewery to note. More please!

I went back to the bar, it’s aff! Pastry Sours seemed to be popular here tonight, it was time to go back to the tried and tested. Artezan (Polska) – Mera – at 6.5%, a West Coast IPA, is a smoother version of the legendary Rowing Jack (AleBrowar, Polska). I expected a reaction on the palate going from New England back across The Rockies, alas, this was surprisingly gentle, fruity even. Marg said she could smell the – fruitiness.

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With Rangers two goals down already, it was time to move on. Viva la Pinta on Florianksa, the main street to the Old Town from the north, is a fine establishment. Tonight the board was boring, about turn. We passed 4-4-2 once more, it looked as if Rangers were changing their striker, at half time, maybes.

House of Beer, the last post and nearest to our hotel, had a potential DIPA.

Aperol for Marg, and a small – Ziemia Obiecana (Polska) – Daj Mi To – at 7.5% featuring Motueka, Nelson and Citra Hop, everything the Hector seeks.

The full milkshake haze, a super Hop Hit, all the right flavours, and no Polish aftertaste. I had ordered a Large before the small was finished. Outstanding Piwo!

There was another reason for being at House of Beer this evening. Last month, former colleagues Craig and Lesley pinned a Scottish £5 note to the bar with my name on it. It took some time to spot, three staff were involved, but eventually the Fiver was liberated. At £3.66 a pint, Hector was on a winning streak.

There was more DIPA and Baileys for Marg, good night.

Last month, Howard and Hector had decent Piwo in Gdynia, Poznan, Lodz and Wroclaw, but nothing in the same league as experienced this evening. Pot luck, perhaps.

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Venues visited today:

Pierogarnia Krakowiacy – Slawkowska13/15, 31-016 Kraków Polska

Cakester Cafe – Swietago Tomasza 25, 31-027 Kraków Polska

Multi Qlti – Ul. Szewska 21, 31-009 Kraków Polska

Viva la Pinta – Florianska 13, 31-019 Kraków Polska

House of Beer – Swietego Tomasza 35, Stare Miasto, 31-027 Kraków Polska

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Glasgow Real Ale Festival – G-RAF 2022

June 16 – 18, 2022

After a three year enforced absence due to Covid-19, G-RAF has returned to The Briggait.

Once again Jonathan was the driving force behind the festival.  Hector admits to turning up expecting all to be in place, and most importantly, the taps at the KeyKeg/Foreign Bar functioning smoothly. Colin was once again overseeing this  operation, assisted by Dr. Stan, it’s complicated.

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Hector was present on each of the three days, the official photographer captured a not too uncommon moment at the Foreign Bar (left).

However, such was the adulation, when Hector, Howard, and Dr. Stan were working in unison, one punter posted his verdict: Dream Team. 

Additionally, there was the chap who wanted to discuss Piwo from Polska, hopefully in recognition of the extensive coverage of Polish Bier in these pages. Inevitably, many wanted to discuss matters Curry related. Time will never permit the same level of coverage in Bier-Traveller.com as in Curry-Heute.com.

Some more of the volunteers

Some well-kent faces

The Bier

At G-RAF 2019, Overtone (Yoker, Glasgow) were in their infancy. Black Market Fruit, a Sour at 5.2%, was featured, my first encounter of Overtone.   Throughout Lockdown they attained great notoriety with a seemingly never ending series of IPAs: NEIPA, DIPA, DDH IPA, TIPA etc It was good to see their Bier pouring steadily this week.

 

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Berlin – Das Bier Kapital

Arriving late last night in Berlin from Athena, Marg and Hector managed to get up to Bräugier in Prenzlauer Berg at one minute to midnight. Three new NEIPAs were on the board, however, knowing that a not so late night was required, it was straight into the God-Damn Zilla! (DIPA).

We sat at the bar, Brian was not in his usual spot. Colin was sat at the window, doing what he does. When that company departed, I was taken aback to find him standing right beside me. It had taken him a while to clock that we were there. He knew we were coming back to Berlin sometime soon, I had maintained the element of surprise. We were introduced to Bruna, Colin’s lady. Thomas, the opera singer whom we spent a pleasant evening with last year also joined us. This is how it is at Bräugier.

The talk last night was of the new premises at Ostkreuz. Open on Saturdays presently, they hope to be fully up and running by mid November. Indian Streetfood will be a key feature of the operation, but run by others.

Colin asked what other venues I planned to visit. Protokoll is my second favourite Berlin venue. Colin said he and Bruna were – going to a party – there this evening, we should meet up later.

Where is Marg? – I asked on a social medium today, only one person got it.

This afternoon was all about enjoying the city. An Italian lunch at Vesuvio (Starusberger Platz) in the heart of the former Ost Berlin (DDR) was followed by the ritual visit to the Brandenburg Gate.

Marg said she wanted to walk in a park. Unter den Linden provided the solution, but not before Hector paid homage to the two T34s parked up at the WW2 monument.

The years remain 1941 – 1945. Russia and Germany were allies between 1939 and 1941. Then UK/USA became allies with Russia. Later, Germany became a founder member of the EC/EU which the UK joined eventually, before leaving. Brexit, who thought that one up? Russia had become the USSR by absorbing all peripheral nations. They eventually seceded to leave Russia alone. Russia has gas, UK used to have North Sea gas. Now we all have Koronawirus. Hector likes T34s, the design of which influenced the Panzerkampfwagen V (Panther). So it goes.

The walk along Unter den Linden took us to the Zoological Gardens. Marg prefers animals to tanks. Our pathway was along the outside fence of the Zoo, this sufficed, animals were spotted. We saw – sheep – in a Zoo? This is a zebra.

Eventually, it was Bier o’clock, or so I thought. An RE across the city would get us to Ostkreuz faster than the S Bahn, we were ticketed for all. The delayed RE made Marg question my logic. I don’t think she appreciated how many stops we avoided by taking the train.

As described, Bräugier-Ostkreuz is directly outside the station to the north. But we weren’t going there yet. Marg felt that her lunch had caused her to miss the promised – Kaffee und Kuchen. Google showed many a Coffee Shop, all but one due to close at 17.00, it was 16.50. We found – the one – which would still be open, it was closed, for renovation. Retracing our steps back towards Ostkreuz Bahnhof, coffee was secured, no cake, Bad Hector.

At Bräugier-Ostkreuz a temporary bar had been erected at what will be, in time, the site of an open window. No, we couldn’t sit inside. No we couldn’t pay by card.

(In the last eleven days in Greece and Deutschland, I have spent less than €20.00 in cash.)

A cola for Marg, a Poor But Hoppy (APA) for Hector. It was too early for more God-Damn Zilla! The Poor But Hoppy was better than I remembered it, despite the plastic cup.

Moments after we had taken our seats at an outside table, Colin and Bruna arrived. This was not by chance. They stuck to bottled Bier which Bräugier has an abundance of. It’s a Covid connected story. They ordered the Spicy Chicken Burger which I had assumed would be a Chapli Kebab. Alas, no, too chunky. One assumes/hopes there will be more on offer soon.

I had half recognised Ostkreuz Bahnhof on arrival, never having done so in daylight.

Straßenbräu cannot be far from here? – I put to Colin. It was indeed round the corner. He also mentioned – Home – run by an English couple further up the same street. Home – has been on my list of places to visit, I hadn’t realised its proximity to Straßenbräu. Hops and Barley ain’t too far either, so having a Bräugier outlet here is classic complementary competition. 

We took our leave, Protokoll later. Straßenbräu has been transformed. The brew-plant has been relocated out of town. This means much more, and comfortable seating. It also makes the venue the Brewery Tap, – The Source – still.

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Juicy And I Kno’Wit at a modest 4.9% had the appearance of being – in the style. Fruity and Juicy, a bit thin, an OK Bier. Hommelsap, remains the best I have had from Straßenbräu.

Home was set up like a living room. Has someone been to Piwna Stopa (Poznan)? The board did not excite. I told the Irish barman that I was hoping for NEIPA. Newcastle Brown on tap – almost tempted, but I’ve had that in Berlin previously. Gold Plank (Eschenbräu) it would be. There’s little likelihood of us going up to Wedding this trip, so perhaps my only chance for one of theirs?

*

Marg and I sat in comfy chairs at the rear of the establishment. It’s Halloween, we discussed if the chap at the adjacent table was guising or cross dressing.

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A tram took us a couple of stops along to Protokoll, one of the two Taps for Zagovor (Russia) in Berlin.

The place was stowed. Not only were we Vaccine checked as we have been on entering every establishment, we had to show ID to match the certification. We were then given a wristband. The staff therefore had total control over who was in the bar, getting served and numbers. Colin had kept us seats, well one. Kitkat Man – as Marg would call him, vacated his, Hector was sorted.

Colin and Bruna stuck mostly to drinking bottled Bräugier. Do they have stashes across the city? Marg wanted Rum with loadsa cola, Hector needed many hands. There was no sign of – Against Milk, the – NE Milkshake IPA – that became the focal point of visits here in 2020.

Fractal (NEIPA) at 6.5% looked like the sensible starting point. After that which had preceded it, this Bier took a while to settle on the palate. In time the hops and fruitiness came through. There was more.

Bruna’s sister, Bianca, sat at the other end of the table with her friend, Marion. A very Brasilian company this evening. Marg marvelled at some of the costumes being worn this evening, especially by the staff. The tall lady who served me was wearing a particularly daring outfit, Hector the innocent didn’t clock this, too busy studying the Board.

Bier-Traveller – may be a self appointed moniker, however, this and the website does make for a bit of notoriety. Michel at Protokoll was formally introduced

I was later  introduced to Tom, founder of Vagabund in Wedding (library photo), and sporting a ridiculous black wig tonight. I took the opperchancity to tell him that his recent offerings have not impressed as much as earlier brews. When the palate favoured IPA and APA, Vagabund Biers were fine, indeed I bough the t-shirt. To date, he has not brewed anything with the dry hopping required to produce an NEIPA. I showed him the various entries on Bier-Traveller.com, we found a photo of him in the background from back in 2016. Hector’s pedigree was established.

A chap I had seen behind the bar at Straßenbräu was also introduced, another brewer whose name escaped me (update 17.02.2022 – Fabian). I assumed he was the brewer, everyone else coming to the table was. Again, I was able to remind him of how his establishment has been recorded on Bier-Traveller. The new layout will be incorporated as this Blog is updated. There’s as much chance of that happening as Porcupine Tree touring again, some may say. However, there’s something mysterious going on in terms of the latter.

At some point, Hector moved up a gear to – Hazy Leaks – (NEIPA) at 6.7%. again, a full on milkshake, but this definitely had – it. The Bier sat on the palate, bursting with tropical fruitiness and there were – no nasties. DIPA and TIPA would be ignored this evening. This Zagovor Bier is what Hector sought, a fine Session Bier to be getting on with. In the end, I decided that this was the Bier for today.

The party was in full swing, photographs of everyone with everyone else. Without photos it’s difficult to remember who one has met. And next time I meet Tom, the photo to remind us we have been in each other’s company will be better than than hazy one first shown.

The clocks go back tonight, party on!

We did. There was an U Bahn from Frankfurter Tor to Alexanderplatz, a Kebap, a tram, and a good night’s sleep.

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