Arriving in Orkney by ‘plane, the best way for Hector and thanks to FlyBe Points, a cost effective way. This could well be a once in a lifetime visit. Four nights in the splendid Hildeval B&B on the eastern outskirts of the main town Kirkwall, on the Orkney Mainland.
With the Sun beating down for the first two days of the trip the photographic opperchancities were superb. St. Magnus Cathedral and the adjacent Earl’s Palace in Kirkwall provided the backdrop to the first Coffee and Cake of the trip in Judith Glue’s Cafe.
It is just as well we did the main sights in the first two days, thereafter the clouds were low. However, the temperature remained unseasonably low also throughout our visit.
With two Breweries and a Distillery on the Orkney Mainland, there should be no shortage of interest from the Bier perspective. The noted Pubs of Kirkwall were located on the first afternoon and the first Ale of the trip Scapa Special a 4.2% (Highland Brewing Company, Swannay, Orkney Islands) is a near amber gold ale. Found to be cool and refreshing it was well within acceptable parameters. First sampled at Helgi’s one assumed that Hector would move around the various Pubs and Hotel Bars to sample many more locally brewed ales, alas this was not to be. It was only after the young waitress poured the second Scapa Special at Helgi’s that she revealed that the other pump without a clip was in fact selling The Duke IPA. This was more like it, and so we left.
The Bothy Bar, part of the Albert Hotel had three handpumps but only one was on, in fact only one was on throughout our four day stay. They advertise a range of Local Ales on the board outside, yet they believe Bottles legitimise this. And so it was more Scapa Special for Hector before turning in on the first night.
Easter Monday saw us complete the main tourist attractions, Skara Brae justifies any trip to Orkney, it is a fundamental part of our Scottish Heritage. Dating back some 5000 years, this is the genuine Stone Age relic.
The Broch of Gurness is one of a few more recently ancient sites that Orkney possesses, again well worth the visit.
However Readers will be more interest in the Ale, perhaps. Stromness had been taken in and the Stromness Hotel Bar, The Flattie, checked out. One Ale was available, something called Scapa Special.
There was a stop at the Highland Brewery on the north coast of the Mainland at Swannay. A newer operation than its much more famous Big Brother, there was no Visitor Centre. This did not prevent Hector and Marg walking boldly into the plant and hollering a – Hello. Rob Hill, the Brewer, replied, we were in and made most welcome. Hector did not leave empty handed, two bottles of Highland IPA in hand, what no Scapa Special?
Two nights in Orkney, it was time for Curry-Heute at Dil Se before retiring once more to Helgi’s. The Coal Fire attracted Marg, The Moth to The Flame.
The third day saw Marg and Hector drive south across the famous Churchill Barriers to the lesser islands south of Orkney Mainland. The Italian Chapel built by the inmates of the WWII POW Camp was worth the short stop. The adjacent Wine/Cheese/Everything Shop offered free samples, declined, too early.
The Tomb of The Eagles was the main destination in the drive to South Ronaldsay. Entry to the main sites is not cheap. There is an offer from Historic Scotland which we found out abut too late to make it worth our while. The Tomb of The Eagles was a private concern, another £7.00 each.
With two Historical Features on offer and an excellent talk on each before the Mile Long Walk towards the cliffs, this was all worth it in the end. Entry to the Tomb itself would have made Richard Attenborough a happy man, queue the music…
The Highland Park Distillery was visited on the return journey. Declining the chance to pay £5.00 each to do the tour, I could recite the script… we were invited to join the last tour of the day and watch the Intro Movie before withdrawing to gaze upon the most expensive Bottle of Scotch I have ever seen. Paul can dream of stocking this in the Bon Accord.
The evening saw us back at Helgi’s where the Duke IPA at 5.2% was what the Hector ordered. From the local Highland Brewing Company, this Golden Ale ticks the boxes and was a Session Ale at the Staggs, Musslelburgh last July.
Standing Stones are located across the British Isles, no Stonehenge is not here, but from the same era are the Standing Stones of Stenness (they do what it says on the tin) and the more impressive Ring of Brodgar, both free! Both are as old as Skara Brae but were weathered by the elements in the intervening millennia rather than having been protected. Sadly, with dark skies, Hector was in atmospheric mode and switched to black and white.
All this a preamble to the inevitable visit to The Orkney Island Brewery at Quoyloo, just passed the Appie Tea Room. The Crab Soup at the Appie Tea Room was on the watery side, the Atlas Blonde at 5% felt even more-so. It did nothing for Hector whatsoever. Thinner than the abv commands, and with no bite of Citrus, Hops, or anything than a straightforward Ale Flavour, well… I decided not to try the Dark Island at Source, or buy the t-shirt. Give me Orkney Blast over Skull Splitter any-time. Rob at Highland Brewing deserves to have his Ale feature in every Ale House in Kirkwall.
The final evening saw an incredibly poor Curry-Heute at the Indian Garden followed a final couple of pints at Helgi’s. Was it still The Duke they were selling or had it transformed into Deuchars? Still no Pump Clip.
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