Hector’s Big Birthday Tour – Portland OR, Four More Nights

Posted on May 11, 2026 by Hector

Monday, May 11th, 2026

Goodbye, Denny Way, the C Line took us to King Street Station in plenty of time for the Amtrak – 517 Cascades – at 12.10 to Portland OR.

One shop in the cavernous waiting room, the solitary coffee stall sold little other than, coffee. So much for a sandwich etc. for the train.

Boarding a train on the West Coast is pretty much the same as being at an airport. A line is formed, tickets are checked in advance, those who paid for premium seats get to board first. Only one step provided for the carriage to which those boarding – coach – in Seattle WA were allocated.

Meanwhile, those who had travelled south from Vancouver (Canada) had to wait a ridiculously long time for the process to be completed. Note, the penultimate stop, Vancouver WA, and yes, a return is planned.

A three and a half hour journey, it took an hour to clear Tacoma, so slow. As for the scenery, the Hector didn’t see much, too busy composing this stuff.

Due to low cloud, still no sign of Mt. Rainier, thereafter the vegetation in this part of USA is the same as the UK. And with the recent rain, all remains green.

Passing though Vancouver WA, I did see the planned day trip here in better perspective.  Train not an option then.

The Columbia River separates Washington from Oregon, Vancouver WA being the southernmost settlement in Washington, Portland OR, being the northernmost in Oregon.

A ten minute walk from Portland Hbf to SW Oak Street and our accommodation.

High and quiet – was my request, floor fifteen took me by surprise I hadn’t looked up before checking in.

Not much of a view, not much to see in this part of the city, actually not much to see at all. We did the touristy bits back in 2018, they will not be covered again. A quick change, it’s finally warm enough for shorts & sandals.

We did need a travel card, a quick visit to TriMet Customer Support Center on Pioneer Courthouse Square. The courthouse remains the oldest brick building west of the Mississippi. The reader must be made aware of this if only such that I get to type Mississippi, once again. The TriMet – Hop fastpass – honored citizen, pennies for four days travel, and as far as Vancouver WA.

Nearby, a Columbia store, they are based in Portland OR. As in 2018, this store disappointed. There is a larger outlet on the southern extremities of the city, a bit of a hike, and if the Hector is to go alone, an early rise.

Slabtown to the west of Old Town / Downtown, was the focal point of our split stays in Portland OR in 2018, a cluster of breweries as with Seattle’s Ballard. Rogue Brewery has gone, just like that. Of the fourteen breweries and taprooms featured in Bier-Traveller from 2018, eight have gone.

Bus 15 took us from Downtown to within a block of Breakside Brewery – Slabtown.

The entrance was not clear, then having found the door, we had to be allocated a seat. Yes we would eat. Getting a Bier was most frustrating. Too many wee girls doing hee-haw, whilst the older chap appeared to be the only person who could pour a drink.

Ten minutes to get served, and only three in line before me. To make matters worse, no Hazy.

Mukbang, a 6.5% NZIPA was the agreed choice. Yellow, a slight haze, if one can imagine a West Coast Lager, then this was it. The classic – cold, yellow & fizzy.

We only came here once back in 2018,

Thirst Trap was outstanding.

One of the wee girlies brought the food, more Buffalo Wings. Still no Pizza or Burger for the Hector.

There was no point hanging about, the 21.00 brewery taproom curfew meant maybe two more Biere before drastic measures could come into play.

Back on Bus 15 to within five blocks of 10 Barrel Brewing Co.

10 Barrel was visited three nights out of five in 2018, we came to be recognised, Apocalypse, a West Coast IPA at 6.8% was the grandest in the style. Despite our taste-buds having moved to New England, I was very much up for this. Prior research had also revealed a Hazy which may or may not have existed back in 2018.

10 Barrel was quite busy, we secured – our spot – at a high table opposite the bar. A quiz was underway, always amusing. What the Americans know which we don’t and vice versa. Sports? – nae chance.

Apocalypse was first on the tap list, followed by Cloud Mentality, an 8.0% lactose Hazy IPA. That should do the trick. Dr. Stan went up to the bar. Both Biere – aff!

FFS! This is the actual brewery, how can the first two on their list not be available? Calm, Hector.

All Ways Down, an aptly named DIPA at 9% it would have to be. A bit early, but still.

Dark gold with a dry, syrupy aftertaste, a decent body, and brewed in the West Coast style. It was OK, but not why I came.

No more buses, we were on the western extremity of the Old Town. Four blocks from 10 Barrel, we popped in to Backwoods Brewing Company, a new venue to us.

The serving Doris greeted warmly, a Bier was on offer, but with the 20.30 closing looming, we crossed the street to Deschutes Brewery.

My memory of Deschutes was it being busy, as much a restaurant as a taproom, and not particularly enjoying the Bier. Apart from being less busy as closing approached, the restaurant atmosphere maintained. Tonight, I played safe and had Fresh Haze a 6.5% Hazy IPA, first had at American Taproom (Singapore).

This time, more detail: Callista, Bravo, Mandarina, Bavaria, Amarillo, and Cashmere were the hops. The body impressed, fruity, rather than hoppy despite the lengthy hop list.

You must be from Alabama – declared a chap sitting at the bar to Dr. Stan’s right.

Glasgow, Alabama – was my reply.

A good chat ensued. The demise of venues in Portland OR was in part due to Covid. It is a surprise that venues like this did survive, sheds in industrial estates have lower overheads.

21.00, three Biere consumed, the Hector had a fallback. Beer O’clock, four blocks away, open until 22.00. The second act of Henry V, or the last act of a Desperate Man.

What a venue this turned out to be. Tommy, Mein Host, was most engaging. In time we were in conversation with his lady, waiting for us to leave after 22.00 was stretched. She loves Haggis, and why not?

Haggis is banned in USA, bleached chicken in a CAN, is not.

The recommended Bier: a collaboration with Great Notion (Portland OR) and Cellarmaker (San Francisco CA). A Hazy IPA – NEDIPA, this had the full on milkshake haze, and body to match its precise 8.25% abv. Whilst the Mosaic, Motueka, Strata, Nelson Sauvin , Riwaka, and Sabro hops might not have achieved the – magic blend – this was still a party in a glass.

What were the chances that the Hector might have brought up in conversation, a certain visit to Nelson, Motueka and Riwaka?

Vier Biere reichen nicht für einen Tag

Tommy was on board and quickly suggested we try Quality Bar which just happened to be on SW Oak Street, near home.

Open until midnight, and there may have been flexibility here, Quality Bar lived up to its name. Quiet on a Monday night, no nutters, a relaxing venue with acceptable music. In other words, I knew some and therefore liked it.

Tommy sent us.

The serving Doris was also welcoming to two mature chaps out looking for more Bier at this time of night.

Flower In The Kettle (Wayfinder Beer, Portland OR), a 6.5% Hazy IPA – NEIPA was found to be suitably robust in body and flavour. Whilst the hop blend was worthy of note, it was just short of that Glen Miller moment. Hops: Mosaic, Amarillo, and Simcoe.

A short mosey back to the hotel, oh, look how high it is.

The breweries and bars visited today:

Breakside Brewery – NW Slabtown  –  1570 NW 22nd Ave, Portland, OR 97210

10 Barrel Brewing Portland  –  1411 NW Flanders St, Portland, OR 97209

Deschutes Brewery – Portland Public House, 210 NW 11th Ave, Portland, OR 97209

Beer O’Clock – 1205 SW Washington Street, Portland OR 97205

Quality Bar – 931 SW Oak St, Portland, OR 97205

Tuesday, May 12th, 2026

Having visited – old haunts – last night in Slabtown / Downtown, today, a series of new venues across the Williamette River. Tommy at Beer O’clock described this line of Taprooms last night as being in – Mississippi. Before Bier, Bunkers and a last minute change of heart for the venue.

Mezbaan Mahal  was a few minutes walk from our hotel in SE Oak Street. Whilst Dr. Stan was happy with his Thali, the Hector was far from impressed by what came his way. Once again, a Curry served in the USA with what tastes like a contaminant aboard.

Bus 4 dropped us a few blocks south of the Migration Brewing Taproom in Williams. In 2018, Dr. Stan and Hector had visited the brewery, further east in Glisan.

Unwittingly, we chose the same Bier as last time, a Hazy, which confirms the memory of our preferential switch from WCIPA to NEIPA halfway through that trip.

Mo-Haze-ic IPA at 6.1% had the appropriate milky haze. With Mosaic hops, a refreshing start to the day but not in keeping with the Hector’s customary post Curry tipple. As a second drink was required here, back to Cider.

Guava Get Down (Two Towns Ciderhouse, Oregon, USA) at 5.3% was a big hitter for its abv. Gold, clear, dry, another worthy US Cider, the standard in this country is high. Dare I say it, a cut above what is served across the UK.

The second Bier was required as Prof G was on his way. Having done New York and spent last night in Seattle WA, an early train brought him down to Portland OR. And now we are three for the remainder of this trip.

Prof G required food, so longer spent at Migration than maybe planned. A local also suggested some venues we should visit. As per Tommy last night at Beer O’clock, Ruse Brewing was highly recommended. Located well to the south of the east bank of the river, the logistics of getting there can be evaluated. Our stay at Migration was decidedly pleasant.

Next venue, an eight block walk westwards to Bridgetown Beerhouse.

As welcoming as the chap was, he had no Hazy on tap to serve us.

However the extensive range of Bier in the fridge revealed a certain winner, but only two CANs available.

Dr. Stan and Hector had a wonderful night at Block 15 Brewery (Corvallis OR) back in 2018. To drink more of their Bier today, an honour. Animal Cookies at 7.0%, it was maybe just as well we were sharing this early. A Hazy IPA – NEIPA had the full haze with an orange overtone. With a decent body and hop hit, enjoyable. The best information available has the hops as: Columbus (CTZ), Chinook, Mosaic, Simcoe and Cashmere.

Two blocks down and the first of today’s three breweries. StormBreaker Brewing turned out to be a classic US suburban brewery. The wooden construction, informal interior, a place one could happily spend much time in. With the sun streaming in through the open doors, a far cry from our monthly visits to Outer Limits (Dumbarton, Scotland).

Again, just the one Hazy. Nobody Puts Hazy In A Corner at 6.0%, a Hazy IPA – NEIPA, had the full milkshake haze, but lacked the body. Whilst the hop blend was fine, Strata and Topaz, it did not have a particularly powerful hit. The Bier was saved by its juiciness.

Next, the definite highlight of the day. Von Ebert Taproom was a block south of StormBreaker. Google has it located in the middle of a block. Approaching from the north no obvious sign until one was right on it. Meanwhile, Prof G had popped in to a coffee shop to seek advice. The Doris there had never heard of Von Ebert, it was across the street.

A grand construction, a spacious room and even more seating outdoors, quite a place. Again, just the one Hazy.

Sector 7, 7.0%, an instant winner. A Hazy IPA – NEIPA, a moderate haze and a bit thin for it abv, but the hop blend impressed. Citra, Simcoe and Idaho 7, this Bier was on the button.

No surprise that we stayed for another.

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Bus 4 picked us up at the top of the street and took us the five stops down to Lazy Days Brewing.

Hopes were not high in this brewery which appears to favour Czech/Deutsch Bier styles.

That the space was full of families with young kids was also found to be off-putting. We were here, we would stay for the obligatory – one.

Hoth at 7.0%, listed as a Hazy IPA was nothing of the sort. Well, not if one was hoping for a New England style Hazy. OK, a moderate haze, but in terms of flavour, this was closer Chouffe Houblon (Brasserie D’Achouffe, België).

This was not the Bier I wanted, nor the venue I wanted to be in. Back on Bus 4. With 21.00 closures the norm, the Hector had a card yet to play.

Adjacent to our hotel lies Midtown Beer Garden, actually an eatery, but we didn’t know that then. The Hector was searching for the Fracture Brewing Taproom, a – microbrewery – according to Google Maps. It is no such thing.

The Fracture Brewing Bar Cart is a caravan in the middle of the garden eatery. Although open, there was no sign of staff. A chap in one of the food stalls pointed us in the direction of the serving Doris who was sitting chatting with chums at a table within sight of the caravan.

I’ll be with you in a minute – she assured us.

It was approaching 22.00, closing time.

Most of the stalls had closed, at least I spotted – Best Taste of India – tomorrow’s lunch hopefully taken care of.

I went back to see Doris.

I’ll be with you in a minute.

The school teacher stare was not working.

You have just said that. Are you going to serve us or not?

Still no movement a pity, I would have enjoyed not tipping.

This is when social media come into its own. Also, Google Maps were offered a reclassification of this venue, quickly adopted after plenty of photographic verification.

Prof G called it a night. With all these food stalls, the Good Doctor and Hector headed along to Quality Bar, a definite case of – The Munchies.

A different serving chap, same Bier as last night, but tonight – Pizza!

Let the entire nation celebrate as US-TV suggests they all must every time someone announces – we are having Pizza!

It were alright.

The breweries, taprooms, bars and restaurant visited today:

Migration Brewing 5 Star Dive Bar – Williams – 3947 N Williams Avenue, Portland OR 97227

StormBreaker Brewing – 832 N Beech Street, Portland OR 97227

Von Ebert Taproom  –  825 N Cook Street, Portland OR 97227

Lazy Days Brewing Co – 2326 N Flint Avenue, Portland OR 97227

Bridgetown Beerhouse  –  915 N Shaver Street, Portland OR 97227

Fracture Brewing Cart – 431 SW Harvey Milk Street, Portland OR 97204

Quality Bar – 931 SW Oak St, Portland, OR 97205

Mezbaan Mahal  –  10 SW 2nd Ave SIUIT -1, Portland, OR 97204

Wednesday, May 13th, 2026

An 11.30 rendezvous around the corner from the hotel at Midtown Beer Garden, for Curry-Heute!

Not much of a challenge, it passed for Curry, at least it wasn’t horrible as yesterday’s was.

With temperatures well down on yesterday, going back to the hotel for an extra layer was considered. One thing is certain, no more shorts and sandals on this trip.

Bus 105 @13.30 was the optimum bus to take us across the Columbia River for a day in Vancouver WA. Once it cleared heavy traffic on the east bank of the Williamette River, we sped north on 99E, passing close to the venues visited yesterday in “Mississippi”.

In 2018, we were treated like royalty because we had made the effort. Sadly, places such as Trusty Brewing has gone. Today, a new adventure, however, one thing was certain, the last port of call would be the Tap Union Freehouse to check up on my friend – Mr. Habanero.

Trap Door Brewing was the logical place to start at the top of the rise above Downtown Vancouver WA, alas it did not open until 15.00. Irrelevant Beer opens early, and so we walked the few blocks from the drop off point to the brewery taproom.

Arriving at the Irrelevant building, the heart skipped a beat, a coffee shop! Ah, Relevant for Coffee, Irrelevant next door for Bier. Phew. I continously have issues with Google referring to places as – breweries – when they are not. Hopefully the coffee culture will not cause further confusion. Let’s stick to – roastery.

A warm welcome from Mein Host who then proceeded to ID the three of us. Flattering, nonsensical, but if they ID everyone then they are safe. Would we have been refused service without? Would my – Honored Citizen – Tri Met Card have sufficed?

Three Hazy options on the board, a good start. I went for #1, Dr. Stan for #2. Prof G then asked for tasters. He chose #2.

It was Happy Hour.

Toward The Within at 6.2% ticked so many boxes. It was good, but I already had sussed that Psychedelic Therapy could be even better.

Still, there was nought wrong with Hector’s choice. The full milkshake haze, and enough presence of hops to impress. Krush, Dolcita and Citra hops featured.

Before committing to Psychedelic Therapy, More Funnerer at 6.7% had to be sampled. It wisnae more fun after all. Psychedelic Therapy at 6.3% was close to the – wow! Nelson Sauvin and Citra hops put to proper use. Again, the full milkshake haze and a body to match the abv.

An excellent start to the day, a pity it was uphill to Trap Door Brewing. Just the four and a bit blocks up the same street, I had already decided there would be a bus back down to Loowit Brewing.

With plush leather benches in the booths, Trap Door Brewing was a cut above the norm.

Superdilic, a Hazy IPA at 6.8% should have been the obvious choice, however, tasters were now becoming the norm.

Juiced Up won hands down.

Here we are, late afternoon, about to tackle a DDH DNEIPA, at 8.3%. That we decided to stay for another half of same tells all. The full milkshake haze, as we seek, a great body and juicy, this was also a hoppy delight. Citra, Mosaic, Motueka and Nelson Sauvin, it is great to see US brewers using Kiwi hops as a matter of course.

For sensibility, our second drink was a – half – which turned out to be a 12oz glass, the US pint is 16oz. Whilst we took that in, there was football on the TV, proper football. Montreal v Portland, so everyone here was supporting the Canadians? Maybe not. I don’t think Americans truly understand that supporting x means neighbours y cannot be tolerated. But then, look at – Sports. The football commentator was an Aussie whilst the co-commentator was Scottish. His diction was perfect. Amazing how we slow it down to be understood, but can chat away together in our otherwise foreign language.

Why drink from a small glass when a large on is to hand? One of our company, and it was neither me or Dr. Stan, decanted and lost control. Blue towel in Washington state is brown.

Bus 71 took us back Downtown. Our second visit, a sad observation, Vancouver WA doesn’t have much in the way of attraction, I took the same photo, the tower, as I took back in 2018. One can re-write history, only deeds can create it.

In 2018, as we approached Loowit Brewing, there was a loud crowd of youngsters buying from the window hatch. Potentially screechy women, the atmosphere was not for us. Today, Loowit was inhabited by the chaps. Still a bit loud at times. There is a $6.50 Lager available all day.

Had we been resident in Vancouver WA, the 12% Russian Imperial Stout – Shimmergloom – would have been considered. That was one we had to pass on, stick to the Hazy which meant it had to be Turbulent Juice at 6.4%. A Hazy IPA – NEIPA, the full haze and a decent body, yet the orange-citrus flavour felt a bit thin. El Dorado, Nectaron and Citra hops, so still not too shabby.

Having had excellent Biere up the hill, perhaps starting here would have created a different perspective.

Prof G and Dr. Stan both like to dilute the contents of their gut with water. Hector’s creative mood was in vogue once more, quite a transformation.

A ten minute walk north once again, retracing our steps in effect. Nobody complained.

I totally failed to recognise Tap Union Freehouse on arrival. Had it moved? I checked a well known and reliable Bier website. Same building. Had it expanded? There was a room of I didn’t remember. But then, unlike today, back in 2018, this was our penultimate port of call. Across the way lies, or used to, Heathen Brewing. The photo I took tonight is remarkably similar to that taken in 2018, yet the business has changed.

Food first, and trying to relive a memory can disappoint. A – Spiced Pork Taco – was duly ordered.

The Coriander was as pronounced as the Habanero, but then it appears I applied the latter myself back in 2018.

By the end, the mouth was on fire, but not at the same level of assault as previously. Hector’s attitude to so-called Mexican food remains the same, venues promise so much…

Bier, the final one of the day. Tap Union has Bier from all over. The Urban Family offering was a Lager. Seek And Enjoy (Ilk Beer, Olympia WA), an 8.0% NEDIPA with Citra and Nelson Sauvin hops was the obvious Hazy.

I have no tasting notes, perhaps Mr. Habanero had done his job after all.

Two blocks to the east lay Broadway. From there, an initially northbound Bus 60 took us back to Portland OR.

Well, as far as Delta Park – Vanport where we changed to MAX Yellow Line, a tram. Our tram stop at SW 5th and Oak was hardly a hop to the hotel. No more Bier-Heute.

The breweries, taprooms, bar and eatery visited today:

Trap Door Brewing – 2315 Main Street, Vancouver WA 98660

Irrelevant Beer – 1703 Main Street, Vancouver WA 98663

Loowit Brewing – Downtown Pub – 507 Columbia Street, Vancouver WA 98660

Tap Union Freehouse  –  1300 Washington St STE 200, Vancouver, WA 98660

Indian Curry House  – 431 SW Harvey Milk Street, Portland OR 97204

Wednesday, March 13th, 2026

No Curry-Heute, but still a noon rendezvous at Midtown Beer Garden. Today, Falafel for the Hector, purchased at Shawarma House, notionally, a Syrian outlet. Prof G bought an elaborate chunk of bread, we’ll see that later.

Whilst we ate, there was discussion as to today’s agenda. How much clothing to wear was also a consideration. The new umbrella, bought in Den Haag, would also be brought into play.

The cluster of breweries directly across the Williamette River was an easy day to plan, though none particularly stood out. Ruse Brewing had been mentioned twice by people we encountered. Ruse Brewing lies way to the extreme south-east of Portland OR, but it’s opening time of 15.00 suggested somewhere else had to be visited afore.  Meanwhile, there was live music, a chap on stage performing a variety of classics on a EWI, with perhaps an emphasis on Santana. 

On our first day here in this trip, the Columbia store Downtown disappointed. It so happens that their main outlet, Columbia Factory Store on SE Tacoma Street, also lies well to the south-east. A cunning plan was hatched: a bit of shopping afore the main event of the day got underway.

Bus 40 from across the street would take us to the door of Columbia. Thereafter, a short walk to SE 17th & Spokane would have Bus 70 take us to SE Milwaukie & Mall connecting with Bus 17 at SE 17th & Mall, one stop to SE Holgate & 26th. From there, a short walk to Gigantic Brewing. 

None of us have worked out why sometimes the progress of our chosen bus can be tracked on Google Maps, and at other times not. The security robot amused whilst we stood at the bus stop.

The thirty minute drive down the west bank of Williamette River revealed parts of Portland OR never seen before. Having crossed the river, all change.

There was a minor shopping extravaganza, my favourite clothing brand at affordable prices, some great bargains. Prof G bought a few items, Dr. Stan was almost tempted, but abstained.

We had to walk at some pace to catch Bus 70 at SE 17th, in the end it was running a few minutes late. The umbrella was like a bride’s nighty. It doesn’t rain indoors.

The walk from the bus stop down to Gigantic Brewing took longer than the map suggested. And we would have to do it back. Rain could be an issue today.

The serving Doris at Gigantic was most welcoming. She had tips as to where else we might visit, nearby Ruse a given, and was also keen to hear our story. It’s not every day they get visitors from the UK in the extremities of Portland OR. A pity we had no more days in Portland OR, but her account of Grand Fir Brewing did stimulate interest.

Fractal Universe at 7.2% proved to be a good start, albeit at a higher abv than one might prefer at this time of day. A Hazy IPA – NEIPA with but a moderate haze, there was a good sense of the hops coming through. Alora, Nelson Sauvin and Citra were the featured hops.

As Dr. Stan may have started on this, he went to the dark side for Bier #2. However, the Hector was not missing out on the Ninkasi Brewing Company (Eugene OR) collaboration. In 2018, as with today, Ninkasi was our first brewery of the day. We didn’t want to leave.

Can You Dig It, also at 7.2% was classed as an IPA. The extent of the haze was therefore a surprise. This Bier did taste as though it did belong on the West Coast. Thora, El Dorado, Krish, Mosaic and Crystal hops were in this one.

Our visit to Gigantic Brewing was relaxing, a worthy venue at which to kick off the day. And who knows, the photo below might come in handy in a few days time.

It may well have ben only one stop on the bus back to SE 17th, but with the railway sidings in the way, quite a gap between Gigantic and Ruse Brewing. We also established that MAX Red Line, the tram, runs past Ruse Brewing.

Ruse Brewing was busy, a table was secured near a family with thankfully, well behaved weans. Queuing to get served, it has been a day or two. The chap behind the bar was on board with our search for Hazy, three to choose from. For Hector, having tasted Brain Glow, the opperchancity to have another, regardless of how good the other two might have been, was not to be missed.

Brain Glow at 7.0% was immediately declared the Bier of the week. A Hazy IPA-NEIPA with the full milkshake haze, this was so smooth. The body matched the abv, the hop blend was working well.

All boxes ticked. The hops: Motueka, Galaxy, Citra and Mosaic. A delight.

People watching was a good distraction, especially when Prof G decided that it was time to wrestle with his bread once more.

Away Days Brewing was only ten minutes away, however, with Grand Fir now part of the plan, it was decided that we should head next to Ground Breaker Brewing. Time was becoming the enemy, Hector summoned an Uber, way more practical. The temperature outside was showing no mercy, one of today’s captures at Columbia was duly put into action.

Ground Breaker felt quite homely.

A pity there was only really one Bier option, and compared to what I had just left behind, it disappointed.

Double Hazy IPA, was hardly a Hazy. Had nobody rolled the barrel today? At 7.3%, this Bier was gold, with a moderate haze. Sharp tasting with a nod to WCIPA, it were OK. The Citra, Mosaic and Nelson hops could have been put to better use.

Grand Fir Brewing would require a substantial walk to catch up with Bus 70 once again. Aware of the passing time, Prof G stood another Uber.

Grand Fir Brewing was established in the aftermath of Covid by the former brewer at 10 Barrel Brewing, our favourite Portland OR venue back in 2018. Paying homage felt mandatory. Sadly, again, no Hazy.

Grand Fir felt a bit over-staffed, too formal. Was it also trying to be a Sports Bar? Given its location, there was nearby housing, no longer were we drinking in an industrial estate.

We took the opperchancity to order food. More Buffalo Wings, wot no celery/carrot?

Ponga, a 7.0% NZIPA was yellow, clear, and had a good body. Once again, akin to drinking a WCIPA. The hops: Nectaron, Simcoe, Nelson Sauvin and Mosaic. Three of these are my favourite hops, they might have been put to better use.

Not the end of the World, but still a sense of what we had left behind at Ruse Brewing in particular. Is Ruse Brewing the successor to 10 Barrel Brewing as best in Portland OR?

Bus 15 took us across the Morrison Bridge and dropped us two blocks from our hotel. In some ways, the night was still young, however, we have a 08.30 train to catch in the morning. No shenanigans, no farewell to Quality Bar.

The breweries and eatery visited today:

Ruse Brewing – 4784 SE 17th Ave, Portland, OR 97202

Gigantic Brewing Company – Brewery & Taproom  –  5224 SE 26th Ave, Portland, OR 97202

Ground Breaker Brewing – 2030 SE 7th Ave, Portland OR 97214

Grand Fir Brewing – 1403 SE Stark Street, Portland OR 97214

Shawarma House – 431 SW Harvey Milk Street, Portland OR 97204

Go to : Portland OR Homepage

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Hector’s Big Birthday Tour – Seattle WA, The First Four Nights

Posted on May 7, 2026 by Hector

2024 photo

Thursday, May 7th, 2026

It is two years to the day, allowing for time differences in the recording medium, since Marg and Hector visited Alcatraz, San Francisco CA, Hector has once again headed across to the West Coast of the USA. This time in the company of Dr. Stan, and having started from Glasgow, not Honolulu. In 2018, it was Dr. Stan’s Big Birthday Tour, this year similarly belongs to Hector. 2018 coincidentally began by flying to San Francisco, this time Seattle WA is the focal point: two sets of four nights split with four nights in Portland OR. We shall be joined in Portland OR by Prof. G who also flew west today, but only as far as New York NY. He too is on a mission to visit some of the finest breweries that Dr. Stan and Hector have already visited, plus some of his own choosing. Fidens Brewing Company (Albany NY) is very much an objective for him. Whilst Marg and Hector may squeeze in a further NY trip in a couple of years, we all know that, unexpected windfalls excepted, this is our swansong as far as visiting the finest breweries in Washington and Oregon is concerned. Too far, and Business Class makes the nine hour flight bearable.

With the BA Lounge out of action, a hearty breakfast was taken at Glasgow Airport’s Lomond Lounge. Been here before in a different guise before the northern extension added more options. Following Mr. O’Leary’s proposed strict guidelines, we did not have six pints before boarding the 11.25 to Heathrow.

On the rare occasions I fly with BA, I always decline their miserable pretzels. Today, meal options, and served with proper cutlery, none of this wooden nonsense. The Salad, accompanied by Champagne was food and drink I did not need.

More Champagne, sir?

What did she think I am, it had just gone noon.

No needless second security check at Heathrow, straight up to the BA Lounge, which prior experience has demonstrated it to be stowed, constantly. Soft Drinks only, and the cheapest of green olives. Could have had more Champagne, many did.

Boarding the 16.30 to Seattle WA was no different than the waiting around on a Ryan Air/ easyJet flight. What awaited aboard the ‘plane was something else.

Champagne, sir?

The power sockets took a while to engage, I brought my own entertainment, just in case. The movie selection was not inspiring. If I have seen Polanski’s Chinatown before, it was fifty years ago. Deja Vu with Denzel, I knew I had seen already.

Two movies on a nine hour flight, dinner took two hours. By the time I had eaten three courses, stuffed. Chicken Tikka Pie, this belongs in another Blog.

Dr. Stan, sitting in the adjacent aisle, was served way more red wine than Hector, but a rather insipid  Bloody Mary had come my way.

The second meal was passed up. In 2018, I missed out on a meal because I hadn’t realised two were on offer, and so only arranged one.

Most of our flight was over land. Iceland loomed two hours after take-off, yes we flew over Glasgow. Greenland, featureless, then Canada, a straight line on the map, because, as we all know, the Earth is flat.

What about RTW-80, Hector?

Oops.

Thirty minutes at Sea Tac waiting for our luggage. At least ours arrived, Paddy Air left Prof. G’s in Dublin. Meanwhile, we watched the queue, to wait to join the passport control queue, not move. Once we were in it, twenty minutes to get into the main snake, a further thirty to present our finger prints.

Nice chap, welcoming, unlike Newark NJ. Actually Honolulu HI was fine as was San Francisco CA. And after the time spent in line at Poznan earlier this year, and Lisboa last, this is where we are at. Getting out of Sea Tac in ninety minutes, reasonable, but then there was the walk through the car park to Sea Tac / Airport Station.

Both Dr. Stan and Hector have Senior – Orca – Cards. A quick reload and Green – Line 1 took us north to Westlake. Having cleverly chosen the correct exit at Westlake, the Hector still led us in the opposite direction. Sorted, and up to 8th Avenue and La Quinta.

The bags were dumped, straight back out, hopefully the last hour at Cloudburst. 21.00 closing, I was sure it was 22.00. The fallback came into play.

Seattle WA is not renowned for its night life. Taprooms are open from noon, some earlier.

In the shadow of the Space Needle, lies TeKu Tavern + Cafe. A Craft Beer Bar, it has everything except a late license on a Thursday Still, 23.00 should do us, or 07.00 as our body clocks would argue.From the outside, TeKu immediately impressed. The long, narrow room had more fridges than any Bier shop ever seen. Drei Fonteinen (België) but no Hanssens.

The bar, two screens, three quarters of them featuring Bier on tap. Three Hazy IPAs, all local, one featuring an interesting collaboration. We had time for three 14oz, US servings.

Having arrived too late for Cloudburst, fitting that we kick off this tour with our favourite Downtown Brewery.

Look How They Shine (Cloudburst Brewing, Seattle WA) at 7.0%, listed as a Hazy IPA, a NEIPA then. Suitably Hazy, but a bit thin for the abv.

The hop flavour was there, but they have brewed better. Hops: Amarillo, Citra, Chinook.

The Bale Breaker Hazy was at the foot of the – Hops – list on the board. Dr. Stan never got that far, he returned with an AIPA.

*

Retrograde (Bale Breaker, Seattle WA / Maui Brewing Company, Honolulu, HI) at 6.3%, a gold, chill haze possibly mostly clear AIPA. The fruitiness was to the fore. Markedly different from the NEIPA, this almost WCIPA went down very well. The hop list included one never seen before: Citra, Dulcita, and Krush. An honourable mistake.

I took particular delight in informing The Good Doctor that not only had I visited Bale Breaker in 2024, I had also been to Maui Brewing in Honolulu HI. It is directly opposite The Cheesecake Factory. Penny!

Finally and at last orders: Retrograde (Bale Breaker, Seattle WA) at 6.5%, a true NEIPA. With a good haze, better body, this was why we had come to Seattle WA.

Our host gave us a few minutes after 23.00 to enjoy our Bier. We promised to return, but on weekend nights, I know a place open even later.

A block away from TeKu is a 24 hour dive bar – The 5 Point Cafe, time will tell. This evening, Dr. Stan declared himself to be tired. It was 08.00 BST when we called it a day.

The bar visited today:

Teku Tavern + Cafe  – 552 Denny Way, Seattle WA 98109

Friday, May 8th, 2026

The Hector had no issues in getting to sleep. Having had an elegant sufficiency, the body agreed with the mind, better get up. A light breakfast was agreed with Dr. Stan, a big lunch was scheduled.

Breakfast included, else I wouldn’t have bothered. Waffles, syrup etc. are not for me. The coffee, orange juice and yoghurt were of a high quality. What about the Cider? Just add hot water. A sachet or two of this must be taken home.

Dr. Stan went back upstairs for further relaxation, the Hector got busy, these wonderful words do not write themselves.

Having missed the South Lake Union Streetcar at Westlake Hub last night, we found the stop around the corner at Westlake & 9th – Denny to take us back Downtown. The C Line bus would have been a better option.

Although Chili’s South Indian open at 11.00, Dr. Stan decreed that we should wait a bit before our rendezvous with Anila, Mein Host. Hector had shopping to do, and today was the day with the only opperchancity. Shopping then became priority #1. There is only one Target store in Seattle WA, and none in Portland OR, so extending the collection of the wonderful t-shirts purchased last year in Miami FL was a mission for this trip.

Mission accomplished, we walked down to Pike Place Market. Updating the Seattle WA page prior to setting off, it was hard to believe that Pike Pub, the grandest setting for a microbrewery in this city, had gone.

This is where Dr. Stan and Hector met Scott back in 2018, it was he who took us through the Market and on to Cloudburst. Today is two years to the day since Hector took Marg firstly to Chili’s, then Cloudburst.

Zoltar – featured in the movie – Big.  How approriate to have *** Stan pose here. With a Fish Curry very much in mind, the desire was amplified by a chap at the Fish Market handing out samples of smoked salmon. 

Curry o’clock was agreed, the 1 Line would whisk us up to University District. Google Maps offered Symphony as a starting point. Why had I never noted its proximity to the heart of Downtown Seattle? Armed with our Senior Orca Cards, we were still valid from our earlier tap on, but did so again, just in case. Two hours for a Dollar or thereabouts, but only for – Honoured Citizens.As ever, the full account of our meal at Chili’s South Indian is posted – here. We promised to return on Sunday.

Back down the 1 Line, alighting at Capitol Hill, a cluster of three breweries never visited previously.

Stoup Brewing – Ballard was the first brewery we encountered on the last day of Dr. Stan’s Big Birthday Trip. Despite residing in Fremont, we left nearby Ballard too late. Hector did not make the same mistake when here with Marg two years ago in RTW-80.

We walked down Broadway from Capitol Hill, and why can I not use the term – Metro – station. Light Train, naw. Half way to Stoup Brewing Capitol Hill lies the Jimi Hendrix statue. Dr. Stan is a big fan, there was a momentary reluctance to have his photo taken. No photos, no concrete memories.

Stoup Brewing Capitol Hill proved to be up to expectations. Modern, bright, spacious, but only one – Hazy.

Sandals & Flannels a Hazy IPA / NEIPA at 7.0% followed the Curry, not Cider as the Hector is prone to do. Just a medium haze, we had to wait quite a time for the promised – tropical & peach – to reveal themselves. In time, the juicy-fruitiness was found, but the thin body did prevent this Bier from be scored too highly. The hops: Cry POP, El Dorado and Mosaic Cryo.

Marg phoned at 15.00. We have agreed that at this time each day, I should be seated. Still on my first Bier, all was well.

Two Biere is the tried and tested model for a tour of breweries. I surprised myself by going dark this early in the day.

Robust Porter at 6.2% was a marked difference. As Black as black can be, this Porter was rich in chocolate flavour, then coffee followed. Not coffee grains, but powdered coffee.

As is often the case in Seattle WA, the next brewery is never too far away.

Elysian Capitol Hill Brewery stands in an imposing building, how many floors are theirs?

On entering, something was not right. Too many people crushed into a small area. How can their Bier be so much better than nearby Stoup, that so many were crammed in here.

Was this in fact a brewery or just a pub? With no sign of brewing plant we marched back out.

This story of Elysian Capitol Hill Brewery does not end here. In my travels I have found Google Maps, particularly in Italia, listing bars as – microbrewery – or – brewpub – when they are just bars. I always put in a challenge and await a response. Kontynuacja – in Wroclaw which is just an outlet for Bier, is not a microbrewery, or even a brewery taproom, yet Google will not change it.

Later this very day, there was a response from Elysian Fields. The Hector stands corrected, a full explanation was given. On updating my comment there was appreciation from the brewery. If all other Bier outlets monitored their nomenclature this well on Google Maps the World wold be a happier place, well, Hector’s World at any rate.

Brewery #2, set in almost a leafy suburb, yet only two blocks back down to Capitol Hill metro. There was no denying that Outer Planet Brewing is a microbrewery. We were both immediately taken by this modest establishment.

There were only a handful of customers, the chap sitting opposite the bar on his laptop turned out to be the brewer. We would engage with him and the chap serving.

The next hour or so was a truly relaxed affair. Comfy seats, though Dr. Stan gave up the settee, it was that time of afternoon.

Just the one NEIPA, and listed as such – Original North Star at 7.6% had the full haze and more viscous body a Bier at this abv should have. A big fruity hit it took me a while to identify mango as the standout flavour. The hops featured: Simcoe, Mosaic and Elani.

The brewer informed us that Elani is the new name for YQH-1320. Elani comes from the nearby Yakima Valley. Washington, Oregon, the source of so many new hops, this is why we came back to Seattle, rater than visit New England once more.

For Bier #2, we went dark once more. 11th Orbit Dry Irish Stout at 5.3% was a good break between NEIPAs. Neither coffee or chocolate were forthcoming, easy drinking. Why Irish?

It was the barman who was responsible for some quirky sounding music this afternoon. Music that was happily off key. I recommended that he try and find Quiet Sun’s album Mainstream featuring the track – Mummy was an asteroid, daddy was a small non-stick kitchen utensil. Also, I may have found Marg’s xamas present.

Being a brewery light in the schedule, the Hector had a fallback, somewhere at Pike Place Market. Back down on 1 Line a single stop to Westlake. The first time I exited this station with Marg two years ago, and again last night, I observed that all the routes away from this station involve a walk uphill. Westlake sits in a groben-like hollow. With Mt. Rainier meant to be on the horizon, it was too hazy today to see it, tectonic plate activity is therefore possible. Then it clicked, my home city, Glasgow, the landscape must be Drumlins. I did a quick check on ChatGPT, indeed, this is the case. ChatGPT is useful for establishing such things, my go-to in establishing the hops in a Bier when the brewer is not forthcoming, Then there is the occasional bit of fun.

At Pike Place Market, Google Maps once again revealed its major limitation, it cannot do 3D.

Down into the car park we went, out the other side, I had never been down this close to the water’s edge here before. Then the realisation, Old Stove Brewing must lie at the end of the ramp which we had failed to locate. Quite a climb.

Old Stove Brewing was pretty much stowed, lots of people sitting outside in the evening sunshine.

Blue sky, but still no Mt. Rainier. Plenty of space inside, but lots of reserved tables and tables needing cleared. Circuit Breaker, the only Hazy IPA. No abv posted.

As we wandered around the room, contemplating where we could sit, a succession of staff members assured us that if we stood at the dias, someone would attend to us.

We waited, a ridiculous amount of time, to be finally told that there was a thirty minute waiting list. No thank you.

It was only as we left that it became clear, and why were we not told, that the outside seating was not reserved. We could have found a shaded spot. Not impressed.

Getting out of Old Stove Brewing was a simpler affair. Walk along Western Avenue, parallel to Pike Place, behold, Cloudburst.

Cloudburst, because of how we were introduced to it, retains a soft spot, a fond memory. It was 20.00 already. Had we been served at Old Stove, we would have missed out for the second night running. What is this with 21.00 closing?

Having had Look How They Shine at TeKu last night, if there was only time for one, it had to be Beautiful Bouquet at 6.9%.

With the hops clearly listed, a Blogger’s delight: Simcoe, Strata and Cascade. Suitably hazy, this was a bit sharp on the palate. Thin for the abv, the flavours did come in time.

If you don’t ask…

Are you really throwing us all out at 21.00? – I asked the delightful Doris who had served us. For once the answer was favourable in such circumstances.

If half as many people stay, I can stay open another hour.

We were twenty, that should not be a problem. People were still arriving for Takeaway.

This is Boring – was outstaring us from the paper board. If this was not the time for a 9.7% American Imperial Porter, then what was? Dr.Stan made me order it.

This was everything Komes Baltic Porter was found to be not when I had it recently in Poznan. Thick, almost chewy, yet there was no apparent chocolate/coffee. This was simply just a pleasure to drink. No further analysis required.

In the zone us? Going home at 22.00, no way, Pedro!

Around the corner in Belltown lies – Just The Tap. Marg and Hector used this as a late night venue two years back. It is quirky.

Down the long corridor, up to the desk in this – pour your own – establishment. One deposits card details, then is let loose.

We were asked for ID !!!

This made our night and set the tone with Jon, Mein Host, who would spend as much time with us as possible, as did a local who happily engaged us. From my first visit here in 2024, strangers to meet at Just The Tap, meanwhile there was karaoke in the back room. I hope that was karaoke, not a person being paid to sing here this evening.

Dank Wizard (Matchless Brewing, Olympia WA) at 6.5% appeared to be the best starter. A Hazy IPA / NEIPA, this had a proper haze and the classic flavour, just a bit short of the magic blend one still hopes for in every new Bier sampled. The hops: Chinook, Idaho 7, Amarillo.

A second was being considered when Jon drew my attention to what would have to be a – goodnight Bier.

Slurricane (Great Notion, Seattle WA / Equilibrium Brewery, Middletown NY / Humble Sea Brewing, Santa Cruz CA) at a mere 10% was a party in a glass. A Hazy IPA, how modest a description is this, viscous, big body and an intense, sour, mango blast that evoked El Frutto (AleBrowar, Polska). The Hector was certainly happy to have this. The hops: Motueka, Sabro, Galaxy. I may have been keen to mention to anyone nearby that I had been to Motueka.

With Dr. Stan fading, plus the acceptance that it was already tomorrow, we called it a night. Buses still run into the small hours in Seattle WA, but as expected are less frequent. Given the walk was quicker, we did, the Monorail and the Space Needle keeping us on the direct route. Ah, the drumlins.

The breweries, bar and restaurants visited today:

Cloudburst Brewing – 2116 Western Ave, Seattle, WA 98121

Stoup Brewing Capitol Hill – 1158 Broadway, Seattle WA 98122

Outer Planet Brewing – 1812 12th Ave. #100, Seattle WA 98122

Just The Tap Belltown – 90 Blanchard St, Seattle, WA 98121

Chili’s South Indian Cuisine  –  4220 University Way NE, Seattle, WA 98105

Elysian Capitol Hill Brewery – 1221 E Pike Street, Seattle WA 98122

Old Stove Brewing Company – 1901 Western Ave, WA 98101

Saturday, May 9th, 2026

No Curry-Heute,  and so a full breakfast would be a consideration. Having awoken early with the body saying – get up it’s really mid afternoon – the Hector went downstairs to get some writing done. Time passes quickly when Blogging, and so it was quite a surprise when Dr. Stan emerged from the breakfast room just after 10.30 suitably replete. He had assumed that I had already gone down to our inclusive breakfast, the only reason it would ever be considered. Breakfast ended at 10.30, the Hector could not start Bier drinking on an empty stomach.

Today, SoDo, a cluster of three breweries to the south of Downtown Seattle. Normally, the furthest Brewery Taproom is first on the agenda, today, Ghostfish Brewing, because they serve food. Heading at noon, Bus 21 from Thomas Street just off Denny Way, took us Downtown and beyond, almost to the door of Ghostfish.

There were plenty of seats in the outside area, however indoors is always preferred, sun and Bier do not mix. Busy, but some tables were free. Mein Host at the dias advised a ten minute wait, outside please. He took my name then asked for a phone number. He was persuaded otherwise. A few minutes later we were called inside, a table mid room, from there all was visible.

Most bar stools were occupied, Brian, a citizen of this land and former CEO of Bräugier (Berlin) always remarked that he couldn’t get the Germans to sit at a bar at his premises. No problems here. Hopefully the couple sat at the adjacent table were not on a date. He talked audibly and endlessly, about nothing, it’s the American way.

Bir & Fud required.

On this trip, the Hector has abandoned the self-imposed ban on Burgers & Pizza, but why give in so soon? Wings, in the style of Buffalo NY, the acceptable alternative. Dr. Stan, Ghostfish & Chips. I was surprised when – pommes frites – came, not crisps.

The celery, carrot and blue cheese worked well with the chicken Wings. I am looking forward to meeting my friend of 2018, Mr. Jalapeno.

The Bier list had one Hazy only. Unless it was outstanding, this would become a one Bier stop. The Bier was not outstanding, but certainly worthy of being here.

It Came From The Hazy at 6.0% was pale yellow with a moderate haze. Does the title suggest it may have a hazier brother? Featuring El Dorado and Brew 1, the desired hop hit was there. This Bier was on the way to the – magic hop blend.

It was but 1.5 blocks west to the industrial area and Seapine Brewing Company.

A wooden construction, evoking Outlander, which became our local in Fremont back in 2018, there was way more people outside than in. People have habits which require them being outside.

Friendly, welcoming chaps behind the counter, can one decline to tip if they are not?

Rainbow Junior at 5.7% again begged the question, was there a Rainbow Senior? Definitely too early for Rainbow Suspenders, an 8.7% DIPA.

A Hazy Pale, why not just call it a NEIPA, this had more haze than at Ghostfish but lacked the body. In time, the Azacca and Mosaic hops made their presence known, not a disaster then, but not enough to keep us here.

No photos of Dr. Stan yet today. He’ll reach the point where he sees the need for him to be included. I did take the photo of Mt. Rainier, we will not get to see this imposing monster of a volcano until the cloud lifts. Two years ago at this time, the Hector was in shorts, today, the umbrella is at the ready.

A well timed Bus 21 took us to the venue for which the Hector had the highest hopes. On entering Fast Fashion Brewing, the people sitting in the various rooms off the long, featureless corridor gave the impression this could be a shooting den.

The bar area was more lively, I approached the serving Doris:

I believe you have some seriously Hazy Bier here?

She concurred, and expressed a wild enthusiasm about us being here.

Acid Raindrops at 6.3%, a fitting title reflecting the human debris were at the entrance, OK, hysterical females. An IPA / NEIPA this had the full milkshake haze. Smooth, seriously smooth, as Bier can be, the Cascade, Anchovy and Motueka hops were doing a great job. So good, another was decreed, no complaints here.

We had taken a quiet room off, a couple initially sat on the bus seats that were against the wall, Dr. Stan and Hector had a kitchen table. The table suited the rest of the room, a kitchen with a facility off which most visitors would not see.

The piece de resistance was the barber’s chair.

The day was certainly taking off, as ever, time to move on. At the southern end of Downtown, Lowlander Brewing had caught the eye. Could this be an offshoot of the defunct Outlander? Bus 21 took us north once again.

Dusk, a short walk and Lowlander was found, not far from Elysian Fields which we have not visited since 2018. However, with a 21.00 curfew looming, Lowlander would have to do. En route, we passed the transport office where our Senior Orca cards were secured on previous trips to Seattle WA.

Bright, modern, in effect a huge room with Bier storage in the centre of the horseshoe shaped bar. Bar stools appeared to be the best option.

Seven Biere on tap, two of which were from other breweries. Not a list that was going to win any awards in these pages.

We sat, no service, yet a 6.0% service charge.  Three staff could be seen through the gaps on the far side, not doing very much. Ah, a QR code was pinned to the bar counter.

I’m not entering all this detail – I announced, I’ll be doing more work that the staff.

I took a walk around the bar and made myself known to a chap who was able to pour Bier for others. I made it clear I was not about to play silly buggers entering my life history and bank details for what would be a one Bier stop. He said he would come, he didn’t.

The Bier list did not excite. Maibock, not strictly why were on this trip, but who knows?
We were on the edge of walking when finally he appeared from another entrance to our side of the bar. The tip would be at the bare minimum, this was not service.

Maibock at 6.0%, low for a Bock. Gold, clear, chewy, the body impressed given the comparatively low abv. Thankfully not sweet as Mahrs and Keesmann (Bamberg, Bayern) became a decade or so back.

Here’s a quote lifted from Lowlander’s own web page:

A 6% service charge will be added to all orders in support of livable wages and benefits for our team. No portion of this service charge is distributed as a tip, gratuity or bonus to any team member. This service charge is 100% retained by Lowlander.

Drink up and leave felt approriate.  Some venues should not last.

With King Street Station in darkness, time for more photos. Bus 24 would wheech us back up to Denny Way and a return to TeKu. We said we would be back.

Bunkers required, not even a proper toastie, how much?

The Bier fridges impressed, however, we didn’t come all this way to drink Kölsch. 

A single nightcap, more Retrograde by Bale Breaker, who knows, tomorrow we might pay a visit to the brewery.

The breweries and bar visited today:

Fast Fashion Brewing – 1723 1st Ave S, Seattle WA 98134

Ghostfish Brewing Company Taproom  – 2942 1st ave S, Seattle WA 98134

Seapine Brewing Company – 2959 Utah Ave S, Seattle WA 98134

Lowlander Brewing – 419 Occidental Ave S, Seattle WA 98104

Teku Tavern + Cafe – 552 Denny Way, Seattle WA 98109

Sunday, May 10th, 2026

Day #4, the last of the first four in Seattle WA, tomorrow, Portland OR. Marg was convinced we were going back to Portland ME. By train?

Anyway, back east, Prof G. is in Albany NY today, celebrating his birthday at Fidens Brewing Company.

Tick.

For the record, Dr. Stan and Hector have now been to Albany NY and Albany OR, plus Portland ME and Portland OR. Let’s not mention Renton WA, oops.

On Friday, we promised Anila at Chili’s South Indian Cuisine that we would return today. This time the C Line took us swiftly Downtown to catch 1 Line up to University District. Another intense meal, and as always, reviewed – here. Let’s have a photo or two since it will be a while to the next.

Bus 44 to Ballard, we know it well having stayed in Fremont in 2018. Two years since RTW-80 and leading Marg around this partyland of Biere, twice.

I know my way.

The blue dot, so comforting, confirming that one is actually in Ballard, and the awareness of what lies around.

Having done Stoup – Capitol Hill on Friday, no need to visit their Ballard branch today. Instead, Urban Family Brewing first visited in 2024, served World Wide Wallabies, a noted Bier, and enough to have me start the day here. Urban Family lies directly across the street from Stoup.

With three Hazy options, and too early for the TIPA, we ordered the first two, the Hector clearly won that contest. Had there been Cider on the board, Hector would have missed out on Water Ski Turtle at 6.7%. The full milkshake haze, smooth, a body worthy of the abv, juicy too, this Hazy IPA – NEIPA was ticking many boxes. Featuring Citra and Krush hops, this was so good, the Hector was happy to have another whilst Dr. Stan had his turn.

Best Bier so far?


An old digi-camera has been brought on this trip along with a tripod. Hector hates – selfies – self-timers – are a different matter. The plan is to have some fun with people not here. Problem, I can only generate AI, or A-one as our Company calls it, on my phone, so there has to be a transference of files back at the hotel.

At the end of the block, westwards, lies Reuben’s Brews, a standout in 2018 and memorable for Dr. Stan’s water pouring demonstration. We took a right turn to investigate Obec Brewing whose CANs feature prominently at TeKu.

An interesting layout with private indoor seating areas, t-shirts worthy of investigation, alas the Bier was not up to it.

Good For Your Soul at 6.3%, possibly, for the palate, less so. An IPA with a slight haze and a surprisingly low IBU-29, this Dry tasting Bier was juicier and fruitier than an extreme West Coast IPA, but felt it had been conceived without any thought for New England.

Nothing in the rest of the range was in our interest to try. Anyway, why spend more time here when the party should surely begin at Reuben’s.

Across from Reuben’s lies Great Notion – Ballard, visited with Marg in 2024. Then I was not convinced this was an actual brewery, but a taproom. Great Notion – Georgetown is planned for next week, all should be revealed.

Dr. Stan was at the bar waiting, a matter of – I’m with him.

Look at this board!

Just the six Hazies to choose from, well four at this time of day.

The Phantasm Menace, at a safe 6.0%, felt like the optimum starting point. All being well, there shall be two more visits to Ballard, we should get through most of them.

A Hazy IPA – NEIPA this surprisingly only had a moderate haze, until flash photography proved otherwise,  and was thin for its abv. Dry tasting, the powerful hop-fruitiness came across immediately. In addition to the hops, this Bier featured Phantasm – Sauvignon Blanc grape skins, a practice first encountered at the aforementioned Bräugier. An extensive hop list: Cascade, Comet, Galaxy, Mosaic. Maybe an issue of too many ingredients and not enough of one?

No fun with Dr. Stan pumping water any more, better plumbing has arrived at Reuben’s.

Knowing I had photos in a well known and reliable Bier website featuring Dr. Stan which I could access on my phone, time for some fun.

Behold, a typical day out with Dr. Stan.

Where did Dr. Stan get the dog? – was asked by someone back home when she woke up.

Time was against us already, we had to get to Bale Breaker, all of two whole blocks away. This meant passing on Wheelie Pop and Lucky Envelope Brewing. The food van declared itself closed as we arrived at Bale Breaker. The munchies are calling. The taproom was open for another hour.No Retrograde as had on day #1 at TeKu, instead Pillow Dreams at 6.1%. An IPA, with minimal haze, not what was hoped for. The Citra, Ekuanot Krush and Dolcita hops did pack a punch. A bit of fruitiness was also noted, so not a disaster, but not Retrograde.

Having bussed it back to Belltown with Marg in 2024, I was confident of getting us back to Denny Way with ease. And so it proved, the D Line dropped us close to tonight’s late night venue. The 5 Point Cafe, open all night, I had established doing my usual research. That I overheard a receptionist at the hotel this morning recommending it, well, who needed an invitation?

Busy, a dive bar reminiscent of The Clark Street Ale House in Chicago IL, we sat at the bar.

Mein Host duly engaged. Bier first, food to be sorted.

Zoigl-Kölsch (Zoiglhaus Brewing Company, Portland OR) at 4.9%, may have had a comparable abv to echtes Kölsch, There the similarity ended. Gold, with a chill haze, this Bier was fruity. And it was probably a Bier, not an Ale. Köln Kölsch does not have this viscosity, this was more comparable to a Bock, and that is praise. Magnum and Hallertauer hops were present, but one has to ask – has the brewer ever been to Köln?

Kölsch, this was not. And I thought that with appellation rights, nobody outside Köln (Deutschland) is allowed to call their Bier as such.

There was food, Dr. Stan and Hector shared Nachos. About time we tried something Mexican.   A1 sauce, better than AI.

To wash all this down a Cider, not the one on the board, and so for once –

I do not have the information.

The menu had an interesting adjunct.

On assumes that loud, screechy wumin, screaming weans, and yappy dogs are not welcome.

The breweries, bar and restaurant visited today:

Urban Family Brewing Co. – 1103 NW 52nd St, Seattle, WA 98107

Obec Brewing – 1144 NW 52nd Street, Seattle WA 98107

Reuben’s Brews – The Taproom – 5010 14th Ave NW, Seattle, WA 98107

Bale Breaker & Yonder Cider Taproom – 826 NW 49th St, Seattle, WA 98107

Chili’s South Indian Cuisine  –  4220 University Way NE, Seattle, WA 98105

The 5 Point Cafe  –  15 Cedar St, Seattle, WA 98121

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Two Nights in Den Haag

Posted on March 27, 2026 by Hector

Friday, March 27th, 2026

Arriving at Schipol at 15.00, how long would the queue be to have one’s photo and fingerprints taken? As it happened, the powers that be have invested in kiosks which complete the task in minutes, meaning one is through passport control, and secured a stamp on the passport in minutes. We then had to wait twenty minutes for Menzies to deliver the luggage.

Ninety minutes after landing, Marg and Hector had checked in to The TRIBE Hotel Den Haag Central. Den Haag, never set foot here before. We have two nights before heading to Zoetermeer to see Gazpacho (Norge) perform at Poppodium Boerderij, one of Europe’s foremost Rock venues. All the Progressive Rock bands play there. As the day went on and we became more aware of distances, I had to wonder why we were not just staying in Den Haag for three nights. Trams 3&4 run late back from Zoetermeer.

Objective #1 was to buy a new power charger, for reasons unknown, the tried and trusty adaptor was not working in the hotel. MediaMarkt, open late, had a Rolls-Royce charger and the price reflected this. Coffee for Marg, on spotting a second hand, sorry – vintage – shop which sold coffee, in we went.

The Aesthetic Lounge Den Haag sells fur/skin coats for the ladies, velvet jackets for the chaps. Fortunately, they had none in my size.

Marg had her usual – extra-hot Latte, the Hector, an iced Hazelnut Coffee. Almost as pleasing as Hazelnut Wodka, even without the spirit. There was some interesting, historical reading material casually left around. Quite a place, Mein Host even gave Marg some soap as a leaving present. I’m sure she showered this morning.

Hofvijver at Het Binnenhof – seemed to be a must see part of the city. As daylight faded, so we took photos of the water feature and Hector resolved not to climb the observation tower. The Lion Rampant refused to unfurl, too damp?

It was Bier o’clock, and time to get out of the rain. The separate trips earlier this month to Polska and België have seen nothing but blue skies and unseasonally warm temperatures. This trip may well have Glasgow weather throughout.

Hoppzack, a basement bar, was chosen partly because of its name, one hopes for hops. The Friday after-work crowd were still celebrating the weekend as we found a small/high table. The staff behind bar made a point of greeting us. There was also an expression of disappointment when we took our leave. However, I explained that this was Day #1 and other places had to be explored.Wrench (Moersleutel Craft Beer, Alkmaar, Nederland) at 5.5%, a West Coast IPA, was found to be yellow and clear. Dry, hoppy, decent, no more. One hoped for more from the Mosaic, Citra, and two versions of Nelson Sauvin: T90 & Cryo – hops.

Here’s the reality, I have never been over-impressed by Dutch Bier, apart from the occasional barrel-aged Imperial Stout. One does not start a session at 12.0%. In terms of Bier-Traveller, that fifteen years have passed since Hector’s Hollandish Hootenanny, and not a word written since about Nederland until now, must say a lot.

Hoppzack was visibly quiet when we departed. Everyone must have gone around the corner to Huppel The Pub. Stowed, no seats, we didn’t hang about.

Through the block, and closing within the hour, lies Haagsche Brouder Brouwerij. A micro-brewery, the brew-plant was visible as we entered. With plenty of seats/tables to choose from, comfortable.

Again, the staff went out of their way to greet. Is this due to Amsterdam attracting all the tourists? Already, Den Haag felt a better place to be.

Oude Molstaat at 6.5%, a White IPA, whatever that is. Neither a Belgian Blanche or a Deutsche Weizen, the – white – was lost on me. A muddy amber-gold, I simply didn’t get why this was any different from a West Coast IPA.

21.00 closing was approaching. Time for food and more Bier. I promised Marg that our next port of call would serve substantial food. Walking in the rain, the umbrella performing well, we zigzagged our way to Fiddler International Pub & Brewery, or, alternatively: Animal Army Brewery. By this time I had a sense of the size of the Old Town.

Fiddler was stowed, Marg checked upstairs. A waiter did his best to find us a table, we squeezed on an end, as people do in Europe. Nederland v Norge was on big screens around the bar. With the brew-plant to one side of the building, quite an operation. In addition to the House Bier, – the usual rubbish – was on offer.

Two small ones felt a better option than committing to something I didn’t like. We both ordered Fish & Chips, a throwback to being denied them in Poznan two weeks ago.

Two Bier or not two Bier, first up the IPA, better to go dark last.

Sea Lion’s IPA (Bierbrouwerij Animal Army, Den Haag, Nederland) at 6.2%, yellow-gold,clear, claiming to be in the English style but with UK and USA hops. Further research suggested that New Zealand hops could be here to. Fuggle, Golding certainly mentioned, so certainly not a West Coast IPA or a NEIPA, or even NZIPA. After all that, the Bier was deemed to be drinkable, no more. Was I glad I had not gone large.

From the same source, Cream Bee, a Stout at 6.0%. For its abv, this had an impressive body, with more chocolate than coffee. Quaffable, had we stayed, there would have been more.

Fish & Chips, or more accurately – Chips & Fish. Six chips are usually enough for the Hector, this was overdose. Freshly made Belgian-style Pommes-Frites, smothered in mayonnaise, are a different matter. These were as boring as I find typically frozen chips to be. Even Marg couldn’t finish here plateful. Loads were abandoned.

Again, I have to mentioned the staff. The waitress who eventually looked after us, went out of her way. Was this because as sixty-somethings we were thirty years above the average of the clientele?

Upstairs to use the facilities, grab a photo of the brew-plant and the hand pumps.

Is this for your Blog? – asked one of two young chaps sitting at the bar?

Bier-Traveller cannot be that well known, as for Curry-Heute, it happens.

The walk, still in the rain, to Bierspeciaal Café De Paas felt longer than necessary. Located on the north side of a canal, at least I knew the limit of the walk. A Friday night, after 21.00, busy, we secured a table mid room. One can immediately tell that this was going to be a comfortable visit. More of a locals bar, a range of Dutch, Belgian and German Bier on tap, time to have something I always enjoy.

Bolleke (Stadsbrouwerij De Koninck, Antwerpen, België) at 5.2%, an Amber Ale, totally remote from the go-to tipple in this epoch. Always refreshing, and thankfully not sweet, a classic Belgian Ale. I stayed on this for the rest of the night. By this time Marg had succumbed to having a well known brand of White Rum filled with more cola than anyone else would apply.

With a tab running, it became a simple matter of going up to the bar and giving a hand signal, the round was duly replenished.

Café De Paas was the one bar I knew would be outstanding before arriving in Den Haag. I had asked Graham on the B.S.F. trip to Brugge earlier this month to recommend a place or two. As a resident of Amsterdam, this was the one place he mentioned in particular. Bierspeciaal Café De Paas was declared – our local – we would come back tomorrow. With The Tribe Hotel only minutes around the corner, an inevitability.

Back outside, in the eternal rain, as the umbrella went up, there was an unexpected – pop!

Looks like the Hector is going shopping again tomorrow.

Breweries, bars, and cafe visited today:

Haagsche Brouder Brouwerij – Noordeinde 14A, 2514 GH Den Haag

Animal Army Brewery – The Fiddler, Riviervismarkt 1, 2511 AW Den Haag

Hoppzack – Papestraat 26A, 2513 AW Den Haag

Bierspeciaal Café De Paas – Dunne Bierkade 16 – A, 2512 BC Den Haag

The Aesthetic Lounge Den Haag – Dagelijkse Groenmarkt 30, 2513AL  Den Haag

Saturday, March 28th, 2026

The formula works, Marg goes out for a walk and breakfast, in this way she learns where she is, even captuirng William of Orange on a horse. Her wanderings took her back to Hofvijver at Het Binnenhof. Meanwhile, Hector has extra – zzzs – then starts writing this stuff.

Despite the fact that the day began with blue skies, Hector’s first priority was the purchase of a new umbrella. The locus of The Tribe Hotel on Spui, the heart of the city, proved to be an excellent choice. The first two shops on Grote Markstraat had €10.00 brollies which wouldn’t last five minutes. Bever, a proper outdoor shop had serious equipment. How much? Needs must. A lengthy guarantee, however, it would still cost me more to bring it back than what I paid.

A bit of culture, the M.C. Escher exhibit – Escher in the Palace – combined an historic building with a display of mind-bending graphics. Visits to museums on our travels are rare, despite no senior discount, this was worth it.

Two nights in Den Haag, there had to be Curry-Heute. We had passed a couple of venues in the heart of the Old Town last night, too Mainstream. Hector had located a venue to the west of the city centre. Tram 6 would take us almost to the door of Delhi Darbar, however we had to walk back to – Spui – to board it. Google Maps do not do three dimensions, it was quite a surprise therefore to find Tram 6 underground. A huge cut and fill station, and given the height of the water table in Nederland, quite an engineering feat. Tapping on/off removed any concerns about sourcing the correct ticket.

As always, the account of the food at Delhi Darbar is posted – here.

Thereafter, the challenge was to find an ice-cream cafe for Marg. Around the corner on Herzogstaat, zilch. A phantom Cafe, now removed thanks to Hector’s persistence.

Altin petek looked good from the outside. No ice-cream, Coffee & Cake, part of our daily ritual leading up to Bier o’clock.

De Prael, an Amsterdam brewery, have another brew-plant in Den Haag. This had to be explored. Somehow, it was within walking distance of our current location. Who plans these days out?

On another day, and in different company, much more time would have been spent at De Prael. That they didn’t have their own IPA puzzled. Haegsche Prael is certainly brewed here, whether my subsequent choice was brewed – at source – cannot be verified.Bitterblond at 5.7% was reportedly – Kölsch-inspired. Since when was Kölsch cloudy? Since when was Kölsch floral-fruity? If one employs Tettnanger hops, then this is the outcome.

Tram 2 took us back to the centrum. Alighting underground still felt strange. The staff at Hoppzack remembered us, we couldn’t have been the only tourists in Den Haag. Marg was seduced into having a mainstream Cider, whilst the Hector would eventually get serious.

*

*

Firstly though a light Lager – Gulpener (Gulpener Bierbouwerij, Gulpen, Nederland) at 6.0% was being sold as an IPA. Yellow and Hazy yes, with a decent body, not demanding. It still came across as a Euro-Lager. With Hallertauer Tradition, Smaragd and Cascade hops, only the latter could have led it towards being a recognisable IPA. The Hector is still not sold on Dutch Bier.

Having spotted the Omnipolo last night, it was just a matter of time. Possibly the most expensive Bier I have ever paid for, the glass was very much a Soupçon.

Ghost In The Machine (Omnipolo, Sverige / Parish, Louisiana, USA) turned out to be a collaboration. A DNEIPA with the full Haze and a powerful, dry flavour, one could not help but notice the alcohol. A single hop Bier, Citra, no magic blend.

*

It may only have been two stops on Tram 15, to Café De Paas, but having sussed the local transport system, why not use it?

Busier than last night, we sat on the opposite side of a table from three chaps. They soon departed to be replaced by a young couple. No engagement, well, they might get married one day. Marg was on Bellvue Kriek, the Hector will make no further comment. More Bolleke to start, then a departure.

Rodenbach Grand Cru, at 6.0%,  defies classification. To me, a Cherry Sour, much more than its official – Flanders Red Ale. The road towards Kriek, possibly, suffice to say, when it’s available, the Hector has it. One of my favourite Belgian Ales.

Another good night at Café De Paas, great staff, great atmosphere. A fine selection of Bier, something here for everyone.

Normally, this would be the end of the night, but with Drinks Vouchers courtesy of Accor, there was more fun to be had. The reception area sold bottles of nothing special, I hadn’t realised there was a proper bar on the first floor. Gone midnight, was it still open? The receptionist said we would still be served.

It is rare to see such options on tap in any hotel, Leffe Blond would normally have sufficed, available on tap at home in every Wetherpsoons. However, Tripel Karmeliet, let’s have some. Marg on the Baileys, ah well. And no stingy measures for either of us.

Tripel Karmeliet (Brouwerij Bosteels, België) an Abbey-style Blond Ale at 8.4% has much more to offer than Leffe. Here, no sweetness. With Belgian Blond I usually have to programme the palate to accept what is coming, Tripel Karmeliet works just fine.

And so to bed. Tomorrow, Gazpacho, but our two nights in Den Haag were well worth the stopover. Hopefully these pages will convince others this city is worth a visit.

Brewery, bars, restaurant and cafe visited today:

Brouwerij De Prael Den Haag – Esperantoplein 20, 2518 LE Den Haag

Hoppzack – Papestraat 26A, 2513 AW Den Haag

Bierspeciaal Café De Paas – Dunne Bierkade 16 – A, 2512 BC Den Haag

Tribe Hotel Den Haag Centraal – Spui 180, 2511 EN Den Haag

Delhi Darbar – Paul Krugerlein 278, 2571 HS Den Haag

Altin petek – Paul Krugerlein 269, 2571 HS Den Haag

Posted in Den Haag | Comments Off on Two Nights in Den Haag

Three Spring Nights in Poznan

Posted on March 6, 2026 by Hector

Friday, March 6th

When the price is right, one has to go. Mr. O’Leary has been offering flights at too tempting a price for over two decades, and as usual,  not from Glasgow.

Suits v shell-suits. This weekend, Poznan, out Friday evening, back Monday night.

Marg and Hector schlepped through to Edinburgh Airport this afternoon, it should have been a two bus journey, alas, technology had other ideas. Our newfangled electric bus from Clydebank stopped in Maryhill Road and wouldn’t budge after an alarm conveyed a fault, yet the bus was straight out of the box. The driver on our next bus did not know the route and tried to turn into a side street. The bus to the airport went via Easterhouse, since when?

Steve joined us at the airport, an on-time flight. Three passengers, all sitting apart. Hector found the middle seat remarkably comfortable, for two hours, no physical contact with another person. And season two of Star Trek – Strange New Worlds as amusement.

Three buses met the ‘plane at its remote stand, the three of us were quickly reunited. Guess which one of the three buses broke down?

Brexit/Schengen, a big thanks to all who made this possible. I never see a Boris or a Nigel joining long queues at Passport Control. I never hear of anyone celebrating that they voted for Brexit when they realise they are in a queue of hundreds, and a photo and fingerprints of every traveller, without an EU passport, is going to be processed s-l-o-w-l-y.

An hour’s valuable drinking time was thus needlessly lost.

A 60zl taxi had us at the Ibis Centrum by 22.00. We had a Piwna Stopa rendezvous with Jens at 22.30. Hector was introduced to Jens during the closing night at Bräugier (Berlin) last February. This month, Jens is working from Poznan. Having been to Glasgow in the interim, he has become part of – The Company.

First to arrive at Piwna Stopa, Marg and I were both taken aback to be called by name. Unknown to us, Szymon, Mein Host was working tonight. He admitted to having forgotten that we were coming this weekend, so a surprise for him also. An even bigger surprise, this time, I did not bring him CANs of London Pride, but Belhaven.

With three Scottish breweries having closed in the last month, who knows what the future holds. Overtone (Glasgow) will be missed.

Szymon suggested I start with #4 then work my way to #5. Danse Macabre (Browar Monsters, Polska) a 7.0% Oat Cream IPA, a NEIPA in effect, was just what The Hector ordered. With a Haze befitting of the style, a body to match the abv and hop flavours to the fore, an excellent start. Strata, Sabro, Riwaka and Galaxy were the hops.

Steve arrived, then Jens in the company of his Russian friend Yuri who was also in Poznan for the weekend. They admitted to having been out much earlier. We had catching up to do.

I introduced Jens to Szymon, in time, Mein Host joined – The Company.

Having had more of the excellent Danse Macabre, it was time to try something different. Sitting with my back to the board and so quoting from memory, following my instruction, Marg returned from the bar with #4, ah well.

Nieocene (Browar Monsters, Polska) a 5.0% Rye Pils, is not what I would normally order. Yet, I always seem to enjoy a Rye IPA, so maybe a subliminal error. Amber, dry, this was not for me. For the record, Steve had missed out on #6 and gone for #7. He got there in the end, before we both moved to #5.

Sitting in Piwna Stopa, there was the realisation that this remains one of the most outstanding venues ever encountered. In addition to the impressive array of taps, a great atmosphere, a warm fire, The Rickmeister was here a few weeks back when it was -15ºC in Poznan. Szymon said they came in and stayed all day. Today, it reached 17ºC, and is likely to hit that each day of our stay.

Tankbusters has become one of my favourite Polish brewers, they do a decent NEIPA, or two. Tonight, a second version of Time To Fly, different hops too from that had previously.

Time To Fly (Tankbusters Brewing Co., Polska) at 7.8%, a DNEIPA. The previous version was only 7.0%. The full haze, dry and juicy, this was heading along the path towards mango juice. Citra, Mosaic, Idaho 7 and Amarillo were the featured hops.

Thereafter it was back to Danse Macabre, I had found what I liked and stuck with this until closing time.

Wodka & Rollmop Herring, is a late night ritual inaugurated by a group of retired Spooks who adopted me back in 2015 when the rest of my company went to a football match. Jens and Yuri had long retired, and so the remaining three headed to Rynek and Pijalnia Wódki i Piwa.

They had no Fish.

Undeterred we went to another branch on nearby Wroclawska. Still no Fish.

Marg, who was certainly having fun tonight went for the Hazelnut Wodka, Steve and Hector stayed – white.

A round, each, we were all having fun.

Steve, who was living nearer Piwna Stopa, headed home. Marg and Hector headed south along Polwiejska.

I have previously stuck my nose into Castacraftowe, a Ukrainian established brewery in Mosina. to the south of Poznan, to inspect the array of taps.

Nothing Hazy, I have never stayed.

Tonight, Marg almost dragged me in.

On spotting the dried Fish, that was it, we were staying. It was approaching 03.00. At this time of night, I had to go dark.

Porter (Castcraftowe, Polska) at 6.8% was thin for the abv. A classic Baltic Porter, this was not. There was not a lot happening here, any chocolate or coffee had been left in the barn. Anyway, the Bier was incidental.

The salted/dried Fish was magnificent. Hard, not quite crispy, it was firm when put in the mouth. It then magically became chewable, and thus the flavours were released. I keep searching for a Fish Curry with this level of – hit. One day. And so it was time to call it a day, or night? 

The bars visited tonight:

Piwna Stopa  –  zewska 7, 61-760 Poznan

Pijalnia Wódki i Piwa  –  Stary Rynek 85, Poznan

Pijalnia Wódki i Piwa  –  Wroclawska 8, 61 – 837, Poznan

Castacraftowe  –  Polwiejska 6, 61 – 887 Poznan

Saturday, March 7th

There was no rush to rise before noon. Still, Marg was out for her constitutional. A degree of fitness for hockey demands this. Steve declared he would not join us for Curry-Heute, and so in our own time, we headed out to Lake Malta to the east of the city.

At our tram stop, there was no ticket machine. Bier-Traveller demands therefore that the reader is made aware that in addition to the local pre-purchased card ticketing system, and the Polska-wide Jakdojade app, there is a single contactless machine installed on every tram. It is bright yellow.

A 15 minute ticket (5zl) was purchased, a mistake. We had to change at Rondo Strodka which took us over the fifteen minutes. Given that we would be taking a tram back to wards the city centre, a day ticket on the Jakdojade app (20zl) would have been more convenient. In two months, all travel for Hector within Poznan shall be free, it already is in Wroclaw.

All routes to the east end of Lake Malta involve a ten minute walk down from Krancova. Poznan Zoo also lies here. Hector dodged a bullet, but we have done this zoo, way back on our first visit to this fine city.

Blue skies, the temperature approaching the promised 17ºC, Lake Malta still had a fine layer of ice. We were here for Curry at Taj India, again reviewed on visit #1. Today’s review concluded thus:

Visit #4 to Taj India, note to self, there’s no need to schlep out here again.

Jens had mentioned a Craft Beer Pub behind the Cathedral which had never been visited. It was this that prompted me to head out east earlier. The rendezvous time with Steve was put back twice, it was nearer 16.00 when Marg and Hector arrived at Tam Gdzie Zawsze for today’s hare of the dog.

Open some three years, Tam Gdzie Zawsze is not a – microbrewery – as Google Maps insist on classifying so many venues.  I have had many changed to – Bar/Pub – sometimes, Google often  insist on maintaining the misleading information. 

Steve had just arrived and had chosen something clear, nothing special – was his verdict. Ten Bier taps and only one Hazy to choose from, it had to be: Dobry Czas (Browar Za Miastem, Polska) at a mere 4.5%.

An – Australian Hazy IPA, as established two years ago on a certain – RTW-80 – trip, the Aussies have not not fully embraced what – Hazy – actually implies. OK, with Enigma, Ella and Galaxy, this Bier was made from Australian hops, but only had a – moderate Haze. Dry tasting, the hoped for, full on hop experience was not forthcoming. But that is going to be a feature of most the Bier intake this weekend. Until one finds something to match last night’s Danse Macabre.

Marg had tea. The chap behind the bar was pleasant. Hector went exploring. Some sat in the open area across the street, meanwhile, downstairs, there was a much more comfortable seating area in comparison to the stools on which we were sat at the entrance. Jens would tell us later that the CANs in the fridge would have been worth a look. I would only come back out here if the – ontap – app revealed something irresistible.

I was anticipating Tram 8 back to Male Garbary at the northern side of Stare Miasto, alas, it became apparent that the tramlines were closed.

And so we walked back across the Warta River to the Old Town.

Marg disappeared, in search of coffee & cake, Hector led Steve to Lot Chmiela, one of the cluster of Craft Beer Pubs on the north side of Rynek. Van Gogh has gone, in fact many Craft Beer Pubs in Poznan have gone, the plan is to visit at least three of the new ones on this trip.

Steve and Hector were the first customers of the day at Lot Chmiela. Steve chose from the Board. As has become my practice here, I enquired about CANs of Hazy. With Jens due to join us, we were on a two Bier stay. A CAN to start, then a bottle.

Hurtownik X Wyboru (Browar Moczybroda, Polska) at 6.0% was sold as – Hazy. IPA, Hazy, NEIPA are all associated with the description of this Bier. I insisted on pouring it myself, and thsuis all the – Hefe – and hops that were in the CAN, were revealed.

Are the Polish brewers just waving the ingredients over the glass?

The – taste of Polska – dominated, dry, with only a sense of the Amarillo, Citra and Mosaic hops therein. Maybe the bottle would be better.

Jens joined us, Marg too, and with other customers arriving, Lot Chmiela was no longer empty. Jens advised that Wsciekly Chmiel, two doors down, is a better venue. I tried it four years ago, I must return, but not tonight.

Rastafarianin (Browar Moczybroda, Polska) at 6.7% was a better choice. A DDH-NEIPA, this had a decent Haze, again poured by – moi. With a body matching the abv, and the Polish taste aside, the hops were more prominent. The addition of CTZ to the Amarillo, Citra and Mosaic hops, was the clear difference between this and the previous CAN.

This made it five entries in my Bier Database for this brewery, all had at Lot Chmiela. Maybe in June, I’ll try next door.

Jens went off for food, the three of us headed around the corner to Dom Piwa, part off the – Ritual Route. Rowing Jack (AleBrowar, Polska) has been enjoyed here for many a year, not even a bottle in the fridge tonight.

The Board only had one Hazy, and therefore Usmiech Dolomitov (Browar Ziemia Obiecana, Polska) at 6.7% it had to be. A – Dolomite IPA – whatever that is, the hoped for intensity of Haze was forthcoming. The Enigma and Hydra hops were not powerful, but there was an awareness of their presence, in addition to the inevitable taste of Polish brewing.

Mein Host was not behind the bar this evening. The young lady did not engage, and so one Bier was declared enough. Ministerstwo was the next planned venue, however, ontap did not show anything particularly exciting. With Danse Macabre still the planned climax for the evening, it was back to Piwna Stopa. A Saturday night, about 20.00, there was not a seat to be had. Having never seen Ministerstwo full, we walked the two blocks around the top of Stare Miasto via Male Garbary.

The bar was staffed by a young lady and a chap with coat and backpack, ready to depart.

With – ontap – in hand on the trusty Opppo, I compared the Board to the online list. One Bier differed. Ministerstwo now has Bier brewed locally under their own moniker, quite a development. The chap realised we had not happen-chanced upon this venue and so engaged. Van Death (Ministerstwo, Polska) was now only available in bottle, meanwhile Van Life, same abv, had replaced it. Given references to touring in the name of this Bier, the hops could not be established.

*

Van Life, a D-AIPA at 8.1% here, though the brewery website says 8.0%, had the ubiquitous Polish Taste on top of a syrupy body. Drinkable, but one would not wish a lot of this.

Meanwhile, unlike the request on my last visit here, a bottle of Komes Baltic Porter was put in the fridge. Why they do not chill them otherwise, I know not. Steve would share this monster, to his sorrow as it happened.

*

It is a month short of ten years since Szymon at Piwna Stopa introduced me to Komes Porter Baltycki (Browar Fortuna, Polska) at 9.0%. This became the standard against which all Baltic Porters have been judged since then. Late night 12%+ sensations have become a ritual.

Tonight, the Komes felt a bit thin, biscuity rather than coffee and chocolate. The chap showed us bottles of Komes variants, one around 20%. None were chilled and so were easily dismissed.

On another day…

Back to Piwna Stopa and further pints of Danse Macabre (Browar Mosnters, Polska). This has been the outstanding Bier of the last twenty four hours.

Our favourite table at the bar was unoccupied but had no chairs. Three were found with relative ease from various corners of the bar.

Jens and Yuri joined us once again, Marg ordered a platter of nibbles.

Not a wild ending to the session, and no late night shenanigans. Marg intimated that she fancied a return to Pijalnia tomorrow night, we shall see.

The bars and restaurant visited today:

Piwna Stopa  –  zewska 7, 61-760 Poznan

Dom Piwa  –  2, Mokra 2, 61-766 Poznan

Ministerstwo Browaru  –  Wroniecka 16, 61 – 740 Poznan

Lot Chmiela  –  Zydowska 4, 61 – 761 Poznan

Tam Gdzie Zawsze  –  Cybinska 13, 61 – 124 Poznan

Taj India  –  Wiankowa 3, Poznan

Sunday, March 8th – Another – Old Firm – Match

Last Sunday, The Famous played their arch rivals in a league match at Ibrox. Played them off the park in the first half, scored two goals, then the second half turned to shit, a draw. Today, same again, but a quarter final Scottish Cup match. Szymon had suggested we go to an Irish Bar in the Old Town to watch the game, aye right. Jens went to Deja Vu – Pub yesterday and confirmed that they would have it on, kick-off 14.00, local time.

The arrangement was to meet up with Steve, who supports the other team. But first, a light lunch. Golabki has long been a Polish favourite, the Hector was introduced to this creation in his primary school years. Mrs. Olga Slotwinska, grandmother of a school chum introduced me to all sorts of east European delights, whilst at home Indian Curry remained the culinary highlight of every week.

Located on the main shopping street in the south of Stare Miasto, Marg and Hector have visited Pierozek i kompocik previosuly. It’s OK, but they don’t sell Golabki. Considering Pierogi to be too heavy at this time of day, we both ordered Soup. There was enough substance in the Chicken Broth to make it a light meal. The house lemonade was a useful source of rehydration.

And so to Deja Vu, how aptly named. A group of ladies, some of whom we recognised from our Friday night flight were also present. They two were split company. Soft drinks only, nursed for the duration.

Two hours later, after extra time and penalties, the usual outcome. Jens arrived in time for the denouement, a pitch invasion, then led us to Male Garbary for the tram to the far side of the train station.

Jens had spoken highly of BRO Food Beer Chill, a new venue for us Scots. In addition to the Bier, the Fish & Chips was meant o be a highlight. There was only one portion left, I let Marg have this whilst I tackled a Beef Sandwich.

Forest Grinch (Browar Nepo, Polska), a Forest Hazy DIPA at 7.1% felt justified. It had been a long afternoon. With a decent Haze, the body matched the abv. A slight tang may have been down to a less favoured hop, Talus. The Strata and Mosaic carried it through.

Virtually next door lies Jecycowka, another Craft Beer outlet. Here there were only four taps and two were – aff. Bottles became the only option, and Pinta stood out, not a brewery I rush towards, too complacent. Having been one of the first big name Polish brewers, they then rested on their laurels, however, I have encountered some better collaborations in recent years, so there is hope. Mango Jerry almost tempted.

Hazy Deliver (Pinta, Polska), a 6.0% NEIPA, was poured by Mein Host. Whether this was responsible for my notes recording – hardly Hazy – may be established if/when I find this on tap. A sharp taste, perhaps again down to to less favoured hops: Sabro and Talus. Strata and Idaho 7 may have saved the day.

Again, a shorter visit than envisaged, the tram took us back to Male Garbary, and Piwna Stopa, where the Bier of this trip hopefully awaited.  

The Hector secured the last pint of Danse Macabre, thereafter, it had to be Jucilicious (Browar Piwne Podziemie, Polska), a 6.0% NEIPA. The hops were possibly: Citra, Mosaic, and Simcoe. A full Haze, sharp and dry tasting this Bier was spiled by a strange aftertaste markedly different from The Polish Taste. My fifteenth Bier by this reputable brewery, I know they can do much better.

Time to try a CAN. Cloudy (Funky Fluid, Polska) a full haze NEIPA, well, I poured it. With oats reported, a thin body for the abv. Acceptable, just – was noted. One had hopes for the hops, they undelivered: Citra, Amarillo, and Mosaic.

Are the Polish brewers adding fewer hops to their creations?

Wroclawski Festiwal Dobrego Piwa is being held at the end of June this year. Hopefully, this will feature in these pages.

A Sunday night, Steve was taking it easy, Jens had work to consider in the morning. Guess who was last out of Piwna Stopa?

And so Marg and Hector stopped for a nightcap at Pijalnia on Rynek. This time, the Hector had the online menu to hand – Herring. Nope, Rollmops have definitely gone from this chain. An obscene quantity of Kosher Gherkins were provided as an alternative.

As we enjoyed a wee Wodka or two, the locals entertained us with the karaoke. The Scorpions, most unusual, the joy of Europe, less chance of reggae, northern soul or rap.

The bars and restaurant visited today:

Piwna Stopa  –  zewska 7, 61-760 Poznan

Pijalnia Wódki i Piwa  –  Stary Rynek 85, Poznan

BRO Food Beer Chill  –  Adama Mickiewicza 27/L3, 50 – 35 Poznan

Jezycowka  –  Juliusza Slowackiego Ul,. 16, 60-823 Poznan

Deja Vu – Pub  –  Wozna 21, 61 – 776 Poznan

Pierozek i kompocik – Polwieska 26, 61 – 888 Poznan

Monday, March 9th

The benefit if staying regularly at Ibis/Accor hotels is the points giving discount and the status commanding early check-in and/or late check-out. On checking in Friday night, a 17.00 check-out was confirmed for today. With our flight back to Edinburgh at 21.40, this was advantageous.

Today, the Hector would have his Golabki.

Wiejskie Jadlo, located in the side street off the west side of Rynek, is the best traditional Polish restaurant I have found in Poznan. Steve tried getting in yesterday to no avail, it is going to be packed at peak times, some even accepting seats in the street. He did join Marg and I today once we confirmed we had a table.

For Marg, a cutlet, for Hector, Golabki and boiled potatoes, both Marg and I could have done with half as many of the latter. A potato did end up in Steve’s soup.

On Friday night, Szymon invited us to come and say farewell at Piwna Stopa this lunchtime even though the bar does not open until mid-afternoon. What is the opposite of a lock-in? Soft drinks, none of us were having Bier this early. We did leave with some Bier, Szymon confirming what Jens had told us, one can take liquids up to 2 litres in hand luggage.

Thereafter, Coffee & Cake and a wee wander.

Rather than visit the obvious places on Rynek, some of which were closed being a Monday, a new place was found off to the east. Panta Rhei Cafe shall definitely be visited again. A lovely lady serving, coffee as hot as requested, and quite an impressive array of cakes.

Back at the Ibis Centrum, we installed ourselves in the expansive lobby. This stuff does not write itself, an hour or so of Blogging before heading to the airport. An Uber was only 40zl compared to the 60zl paid on arrival at the rank.

The Ryanair flight from Poznan to Edinburgh has a 100% punctuality rating. This I have never seen before. Handy, as I’m coming back this way from Wroclaw in June.

Passing time at an airport waiting for a flight is no great ordeal for Marg and Hector after RTW-80. Needless hold-ups after landing, that is another issue. Edinburgh never fails to rankle. Tonight, the works.

We could not dock at the remote stand because the lights had not been switched on. Five minutes plus. No stairs brought to the back door of the ‘plane meaning nobody was allowed off the front. Another ten minutes Two buses when three were clearly required. A squeeze. Three passenger loads arriving simultaneously at passport control. A half hour queue. No sign of our luggage even though the screen stated – complete. Another half hour wait with no explanation/apology.

Is this a management issue or just indifferent staff?

The bar, restaurant and coffee shop visited today:

Piwna Stopa  –  zewska 7, 61-760 Poznan

Wiejskie Jadlo  –  Stary Rynek 77/wejscie od, Franciskanska, 61 – 772 Poznan

Panta Rhei Cafe (coffee & cake) Wodna 5, 61 – 782 Poznan

Posted in Poznan | Comments Off on Three Spring Nights in Poznan

An Autumn Week in Belgium – Pendragon too!

Posted on September 3, 2025 by Hector

Wednesday, September 3rd  Brugge via Brussel-Zuid

Bier Blogging in Europe, I should do more, but keeping up with Curry-Heute on such trips occupies most of my time. Having recently added the drop-down page on Brugge, this complements Brussel and Gent, so what follows should take way less time. Just Antwerpen to do, and there will be time for this as should be seen as the week progresses.

A four day trip was booked, two nights each in Brugge and Brussel.

Why just the four? – Dr. Stan and Hector have asked each other in recent weeks. All to do with flight prices, and after Miami FL and Cruise To The Edge, earlier in the year. I was worried about over-spending. As it happened, on realising that Pendragon are playing in Ittre next Tuesday, the Hector added another three nights to this trip.

An early start for the 11.10 Ryanair flight from Edinburgh to Charleroi, aka Brussels-Sud. Marg, dog-sitting in Wallyford, I kid you not, was able to give me a lift, and so I arrived three hours before the flight, which was needlessly delayed by almost an hour.

I watched the inbound flight not let the passengers disembark, no buses. Half were eventually picked up, then another ten minute wait for the bus to return. Twenty five minutes waiting for a bus, some people standing on the tarmac, whilst six chaps in Menzies-Swissport outfits just stood around.

We fared no better in the departure lounge. Gate 13 became Gate 26. No announcements, not even at boarding. Swissport staff, not Ryanair. On board, the pilot blamed the ground staff for the delay.

My contempt for Edinburgh Airport is well recorded in other media, and specifically so in another Blog posting on the same route as today. The employees treat passengers abysmally. And why do all the interesting flight routes leave from here when the majority of the Scottish population lives in Greater Glasgow?

Suits v shell-suits.

Alighting at Charleroi was almost straightforward. The route to Passport Control was tortuous, at least just up, not up then down a la Edinburgh. The first stamp on my new extra-page British passport, this is why the Hector has not been abroad since the start of July.

Flibco are a major presence at Brussels-Sud, offering so-called shuttle buses to destinations all over België, and beyond, e.g. Luxembourg. Since my last time here, the dedicated bus terminal has been completed impressive, efficient, one can pre-book tickets online, but what happens if one’s flight is delayed?

Not for Hector. Being over 65 means one can travel by train anywhere in België, for €8.50. Charleroi train station is the obvious place to head for by Bus A1, however, the SNCB app insists Luttre is better. Luttre is to the north, so one is not going south to Charleroi to go north again. The same IC train anyway. Bus A3 from the beyond the Flibco terminal is where the local buses are found, not well signed at all. I wonder why? Luttre – Brussel Midi – Brugge, simples.

Arriving at the Ibis budget Brugge Centrum Station just after 18.00, Dr. Stan was checking in. He had come by Eurostar.

Traditionally, de Garre is our first calling point on any Brugge trip. Bus 1 took us to Dijver, the famous canal stop. From there we looped round to the corner of Grote Markt, then off to the lane that is De Garre. With the now autumn sunlight, pretty pictures en route.

Upstairs, at de Garre, empty to begin, then more came out for an evening Bier. 

Tripel Van de Garre, a mere 11.0% to start the night. Two is enough.

*

The accompanying cheese was dinner. I love being here. The serving staff are always accommodating, The peaceful, always classical music, creates a unique atmosphere.

De Kelk to the east in the Sint-Anna Quarter, is where we planned to end the evening, but first Bauhaus a few metres beyond.

A one kilometre twilight walk from de Garre, our first visit to Bauhaus. Decor and fittings-wise, an impressive bar, lots of accoutrements, but the tap Bier list was hardly inspiring. A chap from Ayr (Scotland) was serving. He had never heard of CAMRA, and doesn’t know Henry. Very strange.

*

The Ayrshire chap recommended the House IPA.

Bauhaus IPA (Brouwerij The Musketeers, Belgie) at 6.5% is West Coast in flavour. Gold, with a slight Haze, suitably dry and in the style.

Kwak was the only other tap Bier which could have made the Hector stay, we shall leave that for Toone. De Kelk would certainly have more to entice.

On the short walk back to de Kelk, we passed the bus stop from where, last year, we took a late bus back to the train station. There was a bus timetabled for after the midnight closing time, that should do us.

On entering de Kelk, the high table we sat at last year was in the process of being cleared. I informed the lady:

Ah, my usual table. OK, I’ve only been here once before.De Kelk has a range of contemporary Bier from outwith België also. However, I started with something Belgian and Van’t Vat, Dr. Stan as ever, went his own way, though for a moment he thought I was addressing him:

Shut up! You Talk Too Much (BramBass, Belgie) is a 8.0% DNEIPA. Dark gold with a brown haze, one could taste the alcohol, not the hops. The brewery is reportedly a Gypsy Brewer, the Bier is named after a Run DMC song. Now we know.

This was followed by another tap Bier.

 

 

Stoffoasje (D’Oude Maalderij, Belgie) at 8.5% is a Belgian Tripel. Gold, clear and thin for its abv, there was a slight sweetness. Now way as good as de Garre’s Tripel.

By this time, Dr. Stan had discovered that the last bus back was actually just after 23.00. Mein Host knew nothing about public transport. I checked the price and availability of Uber in Brugge, we were staying.

Dr. Stan came back from the bar with a CAN for us to share. As it happens, I’ve previously had a few from this Estonian brewery, with varied levels of enjoyment recorded.

Magnetic Domain (Puhaste, Estonia) a 10.8% Imperial Baltic Porter, so easy to drink. Maybe not so full on in terms of coffee/chocolate, but a fine Bier regardless.

Back to the board and our nightcap. Mein Host was in no hurry to kick us out even though midnight had passed.

There was time for a glass of Leeds’ very own.

*

Heaven 2024 (Northern Monk Brew Co., England), a 10.5% Barrel aged Chocolate and Maple Imperial Stout, had it all. With the appropriate body and full on flavours the World could simply have stopped here.

An Uber was duly summoned at the time we had planned to take the bus.

It has been a long day.

Bars visited today:

Stammine De Garre – De Garre 1, 8000 Brugge

St. Christopher’s at the Bauhaus – Langestraat 135, 8000 Brugge

De Kelk – Langestraat 69, 8000 Brugge

Thursday, September 4th, 2025 Brugge

A 13.00 rendezvous in the lobby, simples. At 13.05 I phoned Dr. Stan. He was just settling down to another hour’s snooze having listened to the BBC News at noon. Somehow, he had forgotten België is an hour ahead.

The agreed dining place was Pasta-Gusto, along the balcony from Ibis Budget and overlooking the station square and the bus turning circle.

Last year I had the special Gusto Bolognaise, large. Good as it was, I couldn’t finish it, today, a standard portion.

Wot, no Curry? Indian Tandoori, the place we visited last year is – temporarily closed – according to a well known and sometimes reliable map medium. I have done most of the Curry Houses in Brugge, and although In-Dish next door to ‘t Brugs Beertje proved to be fine, walking down Kemelstraat at lunchtime just feels wrong.

Bieratelier in the Ankerplein area of the old town has proven to be worthy of a stop off. Today, this would be our starting point. A rather clever way into the bottom of the old town had us there by a scenic route, new I thought, until I looked at old photos.

How Dr. Stan could navigate his way through the bras suspended from the ceiling, he didn’t let on. Maybe he is used to it.

Rodenbach Vintage, a 7.2% delight, was on tap, not to be ignored. I had a Soupçon from a bottle on a mad night at Koelschip Yard (Glasgow) a couple of months back. This was suitably Sour, but not as extreme as my favourite Kriek which would await later. A good starter.

The smell in the back room at Bieratelier left something to be desired. However, here is an ongoing problem with a city built around canals, not rivers. Every so often, a pong emanates from somewhere.

Across the street from Bieratelier lies Yesterday’s Works, as much a museum/antique shop as a bar.

We were forty five minutes too early, and so on to Bierpalais, and umbrellas up. The promised mid afternoon rain was punctual. En route I checked out Indian Tandoori. It has gone, now selling that food from further east than the Indian Subcontinent. Google has been informed, how long will it take them to react?

As I arrived at Bierpalais, Dr. Stan was standing outside, under a canopy. Closed, worse, for sale. Whether this Bier and souvenir shop remains an ongoing business, time will tell.

On we went, up to the main part of the old town and negotiated our way around the houses, to Brugge’s other old town brewery.

Bourgogne des Flandres have a brew-plant here, but may be cheating. How much is still brewed by Timmermans, and is the House Bier (5.0%) brewed here? Well, they aren’t going to tell us.

Think sweet and thin, Dr. Stan concurred, it wasn’t the same as recorded in Bier notes, and he did not have an excellent Rodenbach afore.

The House Bier is not dissimilar in style from Rodenbach, but quality was evident, albeit by its absence.

Duvelorium next, and the opperchancity to look down on the peasants in Grote Markt. There is a Bier Festival here in a week or so, and the Brugge equivalent of CAMRA were having a meeting in the bar area. Maybe not a CAMRA equivalent, these were well dressed businessmen, who ever wore a suit to a CAMRA meeting?

I haven’t had a Maredsous for yonks, it was on tap and so time to address this.

Brune (Le Saint-Jospeh Maredsous, België) at 8.0%, seemed more ruby-red, was smooth with a hint of caramel. Quite a departure from the norm. After all, we haven’t come to België just to drink NEIPA.

We sat out on the balcony, the stools were not comfortable. A hysterical woman kept performing every so often along the way.

*

Let’s go back in, but keep out the way of the meeting.

Dr. Stan was certain that screaming weans would materialize, followed by the yappy dog.  A typical Hector day out.

‘t Poatersgat has been on our – to visit – list for some time. Another cellar bar as with La Trappiste, and Brugespub which is actually across the street, from ‘t Poatersgat, and still not open in our window of opperchancity.

The stairs were not amusing for people of a certain age, our age. Dr. Stan entered backwards, a la James Bond gatecrashing a party: look as if you have just popped out.

The cavernous basement impressed, the loud music did not. Speakers everywhere, stools just away from the bar proved to be the nadir.

Mr Bean played continuously on the screens. How old is that? All the classic, typically USA pop tunes. Archetypal – said Dr. Stan. Young staff, no gravitas, who are they trying to attract. Had we gone round to La Trappiste, no doubt it would have been stowed.

The Bier? Yes, we had one.

We could easily have just moved on, nothing here to excite at all. If you are opening a bar in Belgium, you need something different, not standard fayre.

Brugge Tripel (De Gouden Boon (Palm), België) at 8.7% for Hector, presumably brewed locally, but not that local. Blond, with a body matching the abv, and importantly dry, not sweet.

That still leaves only two breweries within historical Brugge.

It was now the time when we could walk over to ‘t Brugs Beertje and know we could stay until near enough closing time and not disgrace ourselves. Last bus at 23.21, aye right, they are open until midnight and this is our only shot this year at enjoying one of the best bars in the entire World of Bier.

The Hector led the way to the corner table furthest from the door in the bar. With seats here, we would feel we were here, not stuck in the middle room, or worse, in the back room which opens for larger numbers. A group would arrive and they were sent there.

Until tonight, I did not know, or if I did, I have long forgotten there is another bar at the rear, open at weekends. Tonight was busy enough to justify this.

Oude Kriek (Hanssens, Belgie) at 6.5%, for Hector, there is no better Lambic. As Sour as any Bier can be then add the cherries and the underlying sense of cinnamon, perfection. I permit myself to have two, else acid reflux pays a visit.

Gouda and Celery Salt, another Belgian ritual, was duly ordered. I think there was some salt left in the jar when we had finished.

As we finished Bier #2, a Scottish couple sat at the far end of the table. This led to extensive Bier talk.

The tap list included two IPAs. Being bold, I ordered Madahijscar (Brouwerij ‘t Verzet, België) at 6.0%, a Farmhouse IPA was remote from a NEIPA. Thin, bitter, there was hardly any sense of hops. Columbus and Nelson Sauvin may well have been abused in the creation of this Bier, horrible. I was glad I had ordered – small.

In Between His Walls (Nanobrasserie de L’Ermitage, Brussel, België) at 6.5% was a serious NEIPA. There was a – wow – of relief when the hops hit the palate. Krush, Simcoe and Ekuanot were well represented here. Scheduled to visit the brewery tomorrow, I would expect to have this again – at source.

Dr. Stan had already headed to the dark side. My final Bier of the evening was therefore a safe choice.

Cuvée Delphine (De Struise Brouwers, België) at 13.00%, would provide a perfect ending. A Russian Imperial Bourbon Barrel Aged Stout, this had all the flavour of Chocolate & Coffee one seeks, and little sense of the alcohol. Richly flavoured, excellent.

Walk home? Aye right. An Uber was summoned, a Tesla, a first experience for both of us. The dashboard TV screen interprets pedestrian and cyclists and shows them graphically. Crazy. A touch of Captain Scarlet, do windows and mirrors not work any more. Anyway, his route back to the hotel was circuitous, we got our money’s worth.

Brewery and bars and restaurant visited today:

Bieratelier Brugge – Wijngaardstaat 13, 8000 Brugge

Brouwerij Bourgogne des Flanderes – Kartuizerinnenstraat 6, 8000 Brugge

Duvelorium – Markt 1, 8000 Brugge

‘t Poatersgat – Vlamingstraat 82, 8000 Brugge

‘t Brugs Beertje – Kemelstraat 5, 8000 Brugge

Pasta-Gusto – Frank Van Ackerpromenade 1, 8000 Brugge

 

Friday, September 5th, 2025 Brussel

Everyone in België appeared to be waiting for the 11.55 from Brugge to Brussel, fortunately, I had agreed with Dr. Stan that we would take the 12.11. Much quieter by far, plenty of room to stretch out.

Ibis Brussel-Zuid had not guaranteed my early check-in, however, this was honoured. Having stayed enough nights in the past year at Ibis/Accor, I/we have accumulated enough points to reach Gold, only the second time this has occurred. No welcome chocolate in the room, so I’ll have to buy some for Marg at Charleroi Airport.

The next two nights are also the most expensive I have ever accepted travelling solo. Usually the weekend rate in Brussel is at a discount, not this time. Even St. Gilles, usually the cheaper alternative, did not attract. Staying in a lesser hotel in the city centre / Anderlecht can be horrible. I know, I’ve stayed in a few. The Hector had bitten the bullet.

11.00 checkout – advised the ever so friendly chap.

Eleven, it’s usually twelve.

You can have twelve.

A quick swipe of the key-card and an amendment to the holder and at least I had secured a total of two and a half hours beyond the norm. Small victories.

Nobody at Chilli Grill had acknowledged my text. I know they tend not to open at the 13.50 time posted on Google. I phoned, no answer. I phoned Dr. Stan, he did answer.

I’m sending you details of where I am eating.

Mithu da Dhaba, one of a range of authentic, hopefully, Pakistani Curry Houses that Google now admit exist in nearby Anderlecht. Why they appear now and not on previous trips, which have been regular in recent times, only Google know.

Dr. Stan joined me ten minutes into my dining experience. As ever, the full account of our visit to Mithu da Dhaba is posted in Curry-Heute.

A Friday afternoon, it was certainly Bier o’clock, and we were in Anderlecht. In previous visits to Brussel, this would have meant making a beeline to Brasserie Cantillon, but not any more. I have told the World, and them to the best of my ability, that I shall not return to their brewery taproom until they stop ripping off the public, and generally adopt a better attitude.  For a time it was a matter of by the glass only not enough bottles. Now it’s bottles only, and they want to sell the premium stock.

Dr. Stan assures me that the main chap agrees with these sentiments. Some time back, he advised Dr. Stan to go to nearby Brasserei de l’Ermitage after Cantillon closed. He duly turned up, moments after Dr. Stan, and spilled the beans.

And so, L’Ermitage it was. There were more people sitting outside than in, and even more would join them. That people still smoke, puzzles. That people smoke dope with Bier, wtf?

A different chap behind the bar, this was easy to verify, it was a young lady last year. The Bier which rescued Hector’s palate at ‘t Brugs Beertje last night was duly ordered, a large one too, such was the level of confidence.

In Between His Walls, a 6.5% NEIPA, a sensible starting level for another day of indulgence. It is Lockdown which is to blame for regarding 6.0% as a base level. Anything below 5.0% is now looked upon with suspicion.

Not the best Bier L’Ermitage have ever produced, that accolade goes to Rongo, an 8.0% DIPA, but still worthy of of having. The young barman had never heard of Rongo, he has now.

Those who joined us inside appeared to be transient, luggage in tow. One, a young chap who insisted we hear all of his phone-calls fell foul of having to use the facility. This is for the brave, Dr. Stan worked out that it’s wooden wind chimes at the entrance which make the strange noises.

Everyone should visit, once.

Roy de Denier, an 8.0% DIPA was next. With a full haze and a body to match the abv, this was sharp on the palate, then fruity, with a dry aftertaste. There was no hop hit as such and the hops therein cannot be established.

Today we were spared the screechy women and the runabout wean, cue the yappy puppy. Actually it did calm down quite quickly, so Dr. Stan did not get to savour my discomfort.

*

Dipatout 2025, is how I have to call this one. In 2022, this Bier was 9.0% with a full on Haze, featuring Citra and Chinook. This version had less of a Haze, the body matched the abv, and fruitiness was revealed. With Simcoe, Mosaic and Amarillo hops, this was close to being wonderful.

By this time, it became apparent that whole albums were being played, quite a change from the usual tracks. Radiohead’s – OK Computer – I had only ever heard bits of, the usual bits, I suppose. Having now heard the entire album, I can see where Gazpacho get their influence. However, Jan Henrik Ohme’s vocals in Gazpacho leave Radiohead miles behind. I thought we were getting all of Pink Floyd’s – Meddle – until it cut off halfway through Echoes. There are a lot of fillers on that album.

Not letting Hector hear – the return of the ping – felt a good enough reason to leave.

To where next? Moeder Lambic – Fontainas was the obvious choice, but somehow, we both decided to head to the top end of St. Gilles.

From Lemonnier, we jumped on the Metro (4/10) up to Albert. Well, Dr. Stan was through the barriers first, the Hector had no ticket. The barman couldn’t tell me if the ten journey ticket on the STIB app would appear there, or elsewhere. Who can? A paper Day Ticket it was. How do I get a STIB card? Can I really use any bank card to tap on/off? I would hate to be stuck between the gates at a Metro station.

At Albert, Dr. Stan confidently chose the right exit. He is here way more than my once per year.

Dynamo – Bar de Soif was marginally busier on the outside than it was on the inside.

We have been coming here for a few years, there is always something new to enjoy.

Fugushima (Fugu Brewing Co., Brussel, België) a 6.2% NEIPA was in the no man’s land of nothing wrong, but lacking that particular blend. How many times is this the case?

A pale Haze, with the body matching the abv, this was suitably juicy, and most importantly, nothing nasty. Citra, Cryo Citra and Simcoe were the hops. I can even report an IBU of 25.

I’m sure we sit at the same spot every time we come.

The green wall takes on all sorts of dynamic imagery after a time. There was a brief moment when I considered purchasing a can of Sardines. I have never seen such an array, do peeps eat these indoors or out?

*

On arrival, the next Bier was not on the board. The barman immediately let us know it was available. Maybe he knew something else.

Turbulence des Fluides (Brasserie des Beaux Jours, Charleroi, België) a 6.0% NEIPA, nearly commanded a lap of honour. Citra, Mosaic and Idaho 7 provided the base for this almost excellent NEIPA. The milkshake Haze always impresses, big body big mouthfeel, and the foretaste we almost right there. But then it all subsided too quickly.

I like this bar, but two others remained the target. Still, I had another Turbulence.

*

Moeder Lambic, the original, downhill, and to the right, I can almost get there instinctively. Here the outside was stowed, the inside empty, downstairs, nobody. Smokers. Here we do seem to occupy a different seat each time. Dr. Stan wanted to ensure he could see the board. Hector takes a photo.

Dr. Stan went – Brune – the Hector decided it was time for a Lambic.

Drei Fonteinen Kriek (Brouwerij 3 Fontänen, Beersel, België) at 6.0% has been had oft, even – at source. This is Hector’s go-to Kriek after Hanssens and Cantillon. Not the full on sucky-cheeks and cinnamon, but always quaffable, and that is what I did.

La Moederation (Brasserie de Jandr ain-Jandrenouille, België) may well have been Hector going off on one. An 8.0% Belgian Pale Strong Ale with a slight haze on the gold. Full bodied, sufficiently dry, with some fruitiness, it tasted like a crossover between a West Coast IPA and a Tripel.

Now that I’ve had this, note to self, try something different next time.

Extensive as the Bier range may be at Moeder Lambic, there was nothing on the board that was calling me. It didn’t take much persuasion to get Dr. Stan moving further down the hill to L’Ermitage St. Gilles. I did insist we take the Metro from Horta down to Parvis St-Gilles, the subsequent third trip would justify my Day Ticket.

The crowds occupying the pavement cafes of St. Gilles confirmed that this is where the locals hang out, Grand Place is for tourists.  I think we knew that.

There was no holding the Hector back now, a big Dipatout was duly ordered. Anaesthetic was required time to get through the Danmark v Scotland match on the Oppo. It was 0v0 when I put the match on and that is how it would remain. We didn’t know that and so half litres of Noire du Midi were acquired. As for the football, the usual story, the team which has a proper goal scorer wins.

*

*

Noire du Midi at 6.5% is a Hoppy Porter. Despite the relatively low abv, for the time of night at which it was being consumed, the body surprised, and the mouthfeel was spot on. With both coffee and chocolate flavours coming through, this was a great note on which to finish the night.

Another note to self: the two-plus year old Oppo will have to be upgraded, the battery rarely lasts more than six hours of Hector usage.

Brewery, bars and restaurant visited today:

Brasserei de l’Ermitage  –  Rue Lambert Crickx 26, 1070 Anderlecht, Brussel

Dynamo – Bar de Soif  –  Chau. d’Alsemberg 130, Saint-Gilles, Brussel 

Moeder Lambic Original  –  Rue de Savoie 68, 1060 Saint-Gilles, Brussel

L’Ermitage Saint-Gilles  –  Rue de Moscou 34, 1060 Saint-Gilles, Brussel

Mithu da Dhaba – Rue Brogniez 78, 1070 Anderlecht, Brussel

Saturday, September 6th, 2025 Brussel

Dr. Stan’s final day of this trip and he did not join Hector for another Anderlecht Curry, this time at Noor Tandoori. His loss. There was a notional 14.00 rendezvous at La Source, possibly Brussel’s best kept Bier secret.

Bus 46 took me north from Clemenceau to stop Brussel Andrée De Jongh right outside the door of the old industrial building which now houses the microbrewery. Clemenceau was an eye opener, an open air market was being held across from the bus stop. Those participating were markedly different from those found at Grand Place, no tourists here.

First visited on 2023, La Source brew contemporary Craft Beer, a change therefore from the traditional Belgian styles. I recognised the chap serving, from last year or the year before.

La Meute, a Hazy IPA at 6.5% is tried and tested. There was no holding back, I started – large. With Mosaic Cryo, El Dorado, and Sorache Ace, a decent hop blend creating Tropical flavours.  The Bier has lost some of its haze, or had the keg not been rolled lately?

A Saturday afternoon, where was everyone? At least the roller-derby in the main hall had yet to get underway. There were never more than two customers in our bit throughout our stay. Mellow music, some Shoegaze, a pleasant place to sit.

What could be better than La Meute than Double Meute at 8.0%? Like its little brother not as Hazy as one would hope for. A small glass, a bit early for a DIPA.

Dr. Stan, as ever, was doing his own thing Bier-wise. When he hit the dark stuff this early in the day and declared he was on to something, the Hector had to get on board.

Taupe, a Black Wheat Porter at 6.1% had the full on chocolate experience. A decent body for this abv, so perhaps sensible for the time of day.

Bus 46 took us back to Bourse, and from there, the short hop to another must-visit Brasserie to partake in another Bier ritual.

Poechenellekelder is located adjacent to Mannequin Pis, everyone who has visited Brussel has therefore at least been outside it, and outside is where many had chosen to sit. Inside was stowed also, we squeezed in to uncannily, the same group of tables we always see to secure.

Puppets aplenty, but more of them later, accoutrements adorn the walls, just a great atmosphere at any time of day. Never been at night.

Rodenbach (België), the Classic at 5.2%, though the Grand Cru at 6.0% is even better, is a ruby-red ale. Approaching the bitterness of a Lambic, a Sour, long before this term was coined, truly refreshing.

Settling down to the old time music, some jazz too, we watched the adjacent young couple order Spag Bol. Oh why not? It may only have been a matter of a few hours since brunch, but it could be a long night.

Nobody cooks Spag Bol as good as Hector’s. OK, once, and only once, a chap in the restaurant at the top of Capri’s – other hill – did. When I asked to meet the Chef, they thought I wanted to have words. There was great relief when it was to congratulate him.

Today’s SpagBol needed way more sauce, too dry.  Lots of cheese, must be an American Chef. Usually, they just skimp on the meat not at Poechenellekelder.

Moeder Lambic – Fontainas was a matter of metres away. A different atmosphere, loud-ish euro, but not pop, bearable.

For years, the array of options here truly impressed, these days less so. Maybe my restored regular visits to België have just made me harder please.

HãPi Kiwi (1Bières2Tartines, België), NZIPA at 6.4% was first had at Moeder Lambic – Original in 2023. With – the full milkshake haze and suitably hoppy, a tad off perfection – was written back then. Today, the three Kiwi hops could still not be named and the flavours seemed unfamiliar. During a certain Big Trip in 2024, which included New Zealand, I became more wary of NZIPA. Is it just a matter of the brewers hedging their bets between New England and West Coast?

Grand Place was mobbed but with a different crowd. A Bier Festival was being held which occupied all but the peripheral areas. Given the age of those attending, it was quickly established that there was nothing here to divert us from our objective.

Toone, the puppet theatre and Bier bar. Kwak (Bosteels Brewery, België) at 8.4%, the ritual Bier. A strong, Brown Ale, slightly sweet, but wonderful. It must be served in the correct glass, and here it is.

We squeezed on to a table facing the bar, our preferred spot. We had to pay for each round in turn, no tab. The card machine didn’t stretch to us, could we go to the card reader? They soon learned just to take our bank card for a walk, simples.

Cheese and copious Celery Salt used to be part of the ritual at Toone, they no longer serve it. A couple of years back, a waiter informed us this was due to EU standards. Nonsense.

The music at Toone is relaxed, subdued even, pop in English. Tonight, this included Pink Floyd, an opperchancity for the Hector to name that tune. Dr. Stan stopped at Hendrix. Dr. Stan missed the Hendrix statue in Seattle WA. Perhaps we should do something about that?

A farewell to Dr. Stan who is not in this saga any more.

Back at the Ibis, the bar was closed, a common feature of this chain. How is one meant to enjoy the complimentary drink?

Brewery, bars and restaurant visited today:

La Source Beer co.  –  Rue Dieudonné Lefèvre 4, 1020

Poechenellekelder  –  Rue du Chêne 5, 1000 Brussel

Moeder Lambic Fontainas  –  Place Fontainas 8, 1000 Brussel

Toone  –  Imp. Schuddeveld 6, 1000 Brussel

Noor Tandoori – Rue de Fiennes 42, 1070 Anderlecht

Sunday, September 7th Brussel to Antwerpen

Last year, when my flight from Charleroi, aka Brussels South, was cancelled twice, due to staffing disputes at the airport, I took refuge in Antwerpen and escaped from Europe via Amsterdam. When I decided to extend this trip to accommodate seeing Pendragon on Tuesday in Ittre, I knew that Antwerpen would be the most affordable city in België to stay in, and keep me suitably amused.

There was momentary confusion at Brussel-Zuid, my train was going to Anvers, wtf is that? Why French was being used to identify a city in the Dutch speaking part of België, only the station management may know. Anvers, via Malines, throw us a bone. Antwerpen via Mechelen, now we know where we are going. The Royal – we.

Arriving at Antwerpen-Centraal is always a pleasure. The multi-level platforms never fail to intrigue, then there is the magnificent architecture in the entrance hall.

I had asked for an early check-in at the Ibis Budget, they couldn’t guarantee it, but the lovely ladies on duty had my room sorted when I arrived soon after 13.00. Today must have been deemed to be – hot. I was provided with an ice cold carton of water, for the room. A pity Ibis don’t do fridges.

Prior to a short snooze, I had to deal with a couple of mosquitoes at large in the room. Better now than in the middle of the night. Hector 2 v 0 Mosquitoes.

It has been a couple of years, but a return to Iman Hallal felt overdue. A Palak Gosht washed down with copious Belgian Fanta would set me up for the rest of the day.

Groenplaats from the nearby Elisabeth Metro station should be a simple affair. I have been known to end up on the wrong train and in the wrong direction. Unless I am mistaken the information boards and even the front of the train, flash up the starting point, not the end destination. Today, I had the choice of Metro 3 or 5, and got the direction right. I had three journeys left on my De Lijn ticket purchased last year, and have three days in which to use them. No problem, well not for me, but on the train, a very strange experience.

A young lady of African heritage sat opposite. A Middle Eastern couple, with wean, sat behind here. For reasons unknown , the week girl grabbed the lady’s Afro hair-do, as in truly grabbed it, and pulled. I was half expecting a wig to fly off, but this could have been real hair.

In a previous time, the parents would have been mortified and dealt with the offending wean, not today. In a tone of which Sgt. Wilson of Dad’s Army would have been proud, the parents suggested to the wean that she should cease. Alas, this was to no avail, the handful of hair was tugged further.

All those in the carriage witnessed the horror story, nobody has it on video.

The Historich Centrum of Antwerpen is always a joy to see. It does stand out from the relative blandness of the rest of the city. The Hector strode confidently around the Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekathedraal, in company, Elfde Gebod would have been the chosen venue for Bier #1, as the sad lonely drinker, ‘t Paters Vaejte seemed the better option.

With many sitting outside in the bright sunshine, I strode past and secured one of the many empty tables inside. The young ladies serving were most attentive.

Bolleke (Stadsbrouwerij De Koninck, Antwerpen, België) at 5.2%, felt like the perfect start. An Amber Ale, not too sweet, and very much in the Belgian style, cool and refreshing, it didn’t last long.

As I stood up, so both the legs and the head complained. I put this down to the heat, again, I challenge the logic in drinking outside.

Heading west, I reached the Scheldt and decided I needed a photo of the fortification in bright sunlight.

A musical event was getting underway on the adjacent ground. Good luck to those in attendance.

Cafe Pardaf is on the corner at the road crossing, again, emptier inside. Cider is my preferred drink after Curry and so Wild Dry Cider (Oud Beersel, België) at 7.5% was ordered along with some Gouda with Celery Salt. Having maybe scunnered myself in Brugge, it was time to indulge once more.

The Cider was excellent, cool, quaffable, dangerous. Such was the quantity of cheese presented, the Hector was well scunnered once more. More Cider was tempting, but there was a list of venues to get around.

In times gone by, we have met up with a friend of Dr. Stan in Antwerpen, he has shown us around his favourite places. Lo and behold, look who was sitting on the far side of the room. As I did not need – the information – I took my leave. Knowing his route, I should be able to stay one step ahead.

De Ware Jacob is where I had my last ever Bier abroad with Jonathan. It was fitting that I should have the same Bier again. Seef Bier (Antwerpse Brouw Campagnie) at a modest 3.8% is a Wit Bier by taste, but Blond by nature. Suitably hazy, multi-layered flavours, and more powerfully flavoured than many a 5.0%, this Bier kicked Hoegarden’s arse.

A few individuals sat spread around the room. Photographing the place proved to be difficult, even the exterior on my arrival felt wrong. Mein Host was ever vigilant. Modern classic rock played at a non-intrusive volume. A relaxing bar, a good place to pass an hour.

The joy of this route is that the venues are only minutes apart. Billies next, I had only been here once before. With food available, more than just a bar.

With balcony seating, more accommodating than the outside might suggest. This place has a lot going for it. Once again rock at a sensible volume.

A DDH NEIPA (Brasserie Popihn, France) stood out on the board. At 6.5%, a sensible abv, and with Motueka, Mosaic and Nelson Sauvin hops, this turned out to be the best Bier of this trip, to date.

I sat at the bar and engaged the barman as and when. There was no surprise when ordered a second, this Bier was that good, the magic blend of hops one seeks, and yet too may do not get close to. Such in the joy of chasing down the NEIPA.

 

Beerlovers Bar is back near the Centraal railway station. A return to Elisabeth by Metro, no assaults to report this time, though on exiting the Metro, a Polish nutter picked me up, and accompanied me all the way to Beerlovers, then inside. Who knows what he wanted, but fortunately, he could not afford Craft Beer, and so buggered off.

To follow Popihn would take some doing, both my tipples at Beerlovers would be from Brasserie Fauve, France. Rejaillir Le Feu did not live up to its name. A 6.3% NEIPA, the Haze was decent, but was thin. It took a few moments to adjust to this. Mosaic, Simcoe and Sabro hops featured. It could have been better.

I sat at the same table near the ladies facility, same spot as last year because I knew there was a power point. Ironically, also the last spot we found Dr. Stan’s friend, even though on Information Day #1, he insisted he never came here.

As I typed away. Catching up with this nonsense, so the local mosquito population had sounded their trumpets. The Hector is in town. Score draw. J’Irai ou tu Iras was a worrying name for a Bier, given who I was hoping to avoid. A 6.5% CAN, I insisted on pouring it myself. A full haze again decent hops: Citra, Motueka and Simcoe, but not a big hitter.

Maybe this is why some stay put when they find the Bier they want until it is finished, or it’s time for bed and then come back again.

The music here was varied, I would take my leave at 23.00 when French rap became dominant, but not before I had ordered a cd via a well knowing shopping app.

Ellipsis – Monkey III, a Swiss outfit playing Shoegaze, this is what the Hector wants to hear.

Bars and restaurant visited today:

‘t Paters Vaetje – Blaumoezelstraat 1, Antwerpen

Cafe Pardaf – Suikerrui 2, 2000 Antwerpen

De Ware Jacob – Vlasmarkt 19, 2000 Antwerpen

Billies – Kammenstraat 12, 2000 Antwerpen

Beerlovers Bar – Rotterdamstraat 105, 2060 Antwerpen

Iman Hallal – Diepestraat 101, 2060 Antwerpen

Monday, September 8th, Gent & Antwerpen

Monday, not the best day to be anywhere for Bier. With an afternoon in Gent planned, at least I knew before I set off that DOK Brewing would not open. This still did not prevent me from alighting at Gent Dampoort and walking into the city centre. Not visited since 2022, this fine Craft Beer source will have to wait another year.

On the walk I passed Gentse Gruut Stadsbrouwerij, not the best of brewers, as Jonathan and I further established on out last visit there.

Food was required, my favourite Gent Curry House has long gone, having tried Afghan last time, it did not live up to expectation. One cannot go wrong with Pasta, or so I thought.

Mamy Pasta & More is located off Vrijdagmarkt, just along the street from Dulle Griet which I planned to visit later. 16.00 opening time.

I hate these kiosks which are springing up. I refuse to use self-checkout in supermarkets, these are basically the same in reverse. Extra toppings, I thought they were doing me a favour. Cheese, a given. Tomatoes and Black Olives, again, what could go wrong?

What came was appalling. This was never a Carbonara. A heap of Cheese on a wet sauce does not a Carbonara make.

A chap, who may have been management approached towards the end to ask what I thought. I told him. Off he went.

Well that review was much briefer than what appears in Curry-Heute.

To let lunch digest, and being far too early for Bier, I did the loop around the old town and canal. Today was the day a pair of boxers decided to create merry hell. Every step became an ordeal. Headed for the bin they were.

Still, the rewards were worth it, the architecture here astonishes. A lot of restoration after ’45, one assumes.

Bier o’clock was declared. Having taken decent photos of Waterhuis from across the canal, this remained my intended first stop.

Last time here, again 2022, I let my displeasure be well known: they were charging their own customers to use the facilities. Fortunately, I had been recently informed that this was no longer their practice, else I would not have returned. Which is basically what I had told them. Somebody saw-delight.

Emptier inside than out, let those who wish to drink under the sun, do so, leave me a comfortable seat indoors. Rodenbach was once again my preferred tipple.

Two English couples sat at the table near the door, I took the far away option. 80’s pop music, played quietly. I could easily have stayed here longer, Waterhuis is back to being a good bar again.

Brouwerij Artevelde was new on the Gent radar. Artevelde being the chap whose statue dominates Vrijdagmarkt.

As much a restaurant as a house brewery, the brew-plant was visible as were tanks above the long bar.

Served at the bar, I took a table such that all could be seen. All other customers had chosen to sit in the secluded Biergarten.

Grand Cru at 7.2% was darker than ruby. Taste-wise, this could have been a Blond. Distinctly weaker than a Tripel, it just tasted – Belgian.

The choice of music being played was dire. I enjoyed the nibbles.

 

 

 

Dulle Griet must have opened before 16.00, I arrived twenty minutes after, what a mistake to make. Every Bier tourist in Gent had descended upon the place, no seats at the bar, all tables occupied.

The depositing of the sandals was well underway.  In company, I might have squeezed in at a table, or grabbed one as peeps left. Being the lone drinker, this was not going to work. Let’s get outta here.

On another day, I would have walked down to the University area and revisited Rock Circus. Walk, no more. Bus, and I had one ticket left of my – Ten – purchased last year. Back to Dampoort, back to Antwerpen and a timeout at the Ibis Budget.

It was only going to be Beerlovers this evening, some Blogging, oh, and a wee football match. Having miraculously drawn away with Danmark, Scotland play away again in Hungary, against Belarus.

*

Tonight a table on the window side away from the mosquitoes. The serving Doris looked after me very well. Scotland won, and I enjoyed a Bier or more.

Smash! (Brouwland, België) at 6.8% is a Hazy IPA / DIPA. S-M-A-S-H – single malt and single hop, though the hop variety remains unknown. Dark gold, hazy, a bit on the sharp side. One was enough.

Time for a Tripel, well watching Scotland can do this. Witkap Pater Tripel (Brouwerij Slaghmuylder, België) at 7.5%, dark gold with perhaps a chill haze and a brown-ish foamy top. I don’t like brown foam, takes me back to the Argentinian Lager I watched adults having to endure back in ‘69 whilst sailing across the South Atlantic. Dry, with an unexpected fruitiness, this was otherwise not too shabby.

My Bier database has no record of having had a Rochefort, #6 was duly ordered. Trappistses Rochefort are based in Namur, it’s a long time since I ventured that far south in België, though Marg was there earlier this year for a hockey tournament. Next year, around this time, she is scheduled to be playing outside Antwerpen, there’s a challenge for Dr. Stan.

A Doppo Malto, #6 certainly drank at its abv, a powerful Brown Ale. Syrupy, with a slight sweetness, not really my thing. Where was the Baltic Porter?

Belarus 0 v 2 Scotland, we’ll take that. Four points out of six, away from home, surprising. Being Scottish, I know what inevitably follows.

A relatively early night, a big day tomorrow.

Brewery, bars and restaurant visited today:

Het Waterhuis aan de Bierkant  –  Groentenmarkt 9, 9000 Gent

Brouwerij Artevelde  –  Botermarkt 5, 9000 Gent

De Dulle Griet  –  Vrijdagmarkt 50, 9000 Gent

Beerlovers Bar – Rotterdamstraat 105, 2060 Antwerpen

Mamy Pasta & More – Grootkanonplein 6, 9000 Gent

Tuesday, September 9th, Antwerpen, Tubize, Oisquercq & Ittre

Technically, Pendragon are playing in Ittre this evening, well, that’s the address for the Zik-Zak music venue. Between Ittre the town, and Zik-Zak, lies the Brussel-Charleroi Canal, with no public transport in this area after 20.00, reaching the only accommodation in Ittre after the gig would have required a circuitous walk in the dark, across water. No thanks. Fortunately, I found a lovely lady with an Air B&B in Oisquercq, minutes from the venue on foot, that made today possible. Oisquercq, as everyone knows, is a hamlet to the south of Tubize, and the latter is on the railway line between Brussel and Binche. Ittre, Oisquercq and Tubize are therefore in the Brussel commuter belt, with no late night transport back to the metropolis.

I could take my time getting to Oisquercq, a 15.00 check-in. Last time in Antwerpen, I discovered the station cafe on the upper level. Le Royal café has ambience, and a decent breakfast menu at a fair price. For Hector, coffee would suffice, though this was taking a risk. Bunkers would be required at some point.

Changing train in Brussel, it was a short hop to Tubize where Bus #47 was due to connect. The timetable posted at the bus stop showed way more buses than Google. Being a school day, maybe there were more buses. Tubize-Ittre is back in the land of LeTec, the same local bus company taking one away from Charleroi Airport. I had the app, I soon had a ticket. Being still too early to check-in, I went straight to Zik-Zak and made my acquaintance with the venue. I also established that the only possible outlet for Bier or food around here was actually a spa – Chez Manu – and it was closed. As Nick Barrett, the main man in Pendragon, would ask on stage later – where do you get a Bier around here? The answer is simple, it’s either Zik-Zak, when it’s open, or nowhere.

Having checked in, I worked out that I could get the bus back to Tubize, eat, and then get back well in time for the gig. Le Régal was not easy to find, a classic case of Google Maps not working in three dimensions. Eventually, I worked out that the restaurant had to be upstairs in the mini-mall.

Hamburger, when does the Hector ever order this? And with Pommes-frites! Maybe I’ve had enough Pasta in recent days, the only alternative. The chips were abundant, terrible, probably frozen. The burger, bearable, the service, appalling.

*

School kids mobbed the bus station, a choice of buses, so much for Google. With my ticket bought for one, I took another, the more circuitous route across the Canal and back.

And so to see Pendragon, the story of which is related – here.

By 23.45, the Hector was parched. The token system at the bar prolonged the thirst. Two plastic cups of Kriek (Morte Subite, Brussel), a favourite Lambic at 4.8%, the first disappeared in an instant. The second was savoured. Not quite the vase had at source, but a fine conclusion to this trip.

For the walk back to the accommodation, I took a risk and walked, Oppo illuminated, along the path of an old railway line. This was much safer than the country road with traffic coming in both directions on blind bends.

Tomorrow, the return flight from Charleroi, aka Brussels-Sud. Maybe a Curry in Brussel en route?

Music venue, restaurant and cafe visited today:

Zik-Zak – Rue de Tubize 28, 1460 Ittre

Taverne Restaurant “ Le Régal” – Passage J, Champagne, 1480 Tubize

Le Royal café – Pelikaanstraat 3, 2018, Antwerpen

Posted in Antwerp, Gent, Brugge, Brussel | 1 Comment

Around The World In Eighty Days : Days 79 – 80

Posted on June 5, 2024 by Hector

Day 79 – Wednesday, June 5th London to Glasgow

As we touched down at Heathrow, on time, we knew that the mission had been accomplished – we had just travelled around the World! So, the Earth ain’t flat then, or is something else out of sorts?

We had just over an hour: to disembark, clearing immigration on a flight transfer at Terminal 5 is straightforward, but getting through security again seems pointless, and time consuming. The 08.15 to Glasgow, not the end of the World if we missed it, but we have caught every flight on this trip, to be messed about now well, more than frustrating.

Marg and I sprinted to the gate, well Marg led the way.  Dr. Stan, who had been travelled across – The Pond – in a more salubrious seat was still nowhere to be seen. Reaching the departure gate, in a sweat, nothing happening. No information, Dr. Stan joined us having moved as fast as he could. Eventually, a change of gate was announced. One hundred plus people walked to the alternate gate where we stood, and stood, and stood. This was BA, and people complain about the budget airlines.

No thanks – I refuse to eat pretzels, and the bottled water isn’t even fizzy. Our national airline.

At Glasgow, we lost Dr. Stan, no farewells.

The Polo-shirt

Le Tour Du Monde En 80 Jours

Had we toured the World with the logo in English, imagine the needless conversations.

Yes, we really are going Around The World In 80 Days.

Maßlogiskeit in Maßen

Excess in moderation – does that sum up our trip?

By now the reader is certainly asking the next big question. This is Day 79, so much for – Around The World In 80 Days. It is a challenge, not to be taken that precisely. Research has revealed:

A journey around the world completed in 79 days would still count as “going around the world in 80 days”, even though it’s one day less than the stated time. The phrase is more of a symbolic or literary concept than a literal one.

Day 80 – Thursday, June 6th Glasgow – Curry-Heute

When Phileas Fogg returned from his attempt at Around The World In 80 Days, he didn’t know he had achieved the challenge due to crossing the International Dateline in an eastward direction, the extra day paid back.

So, did I actually take 80 days?

I shall draw the reader’s attention to my starting date, March 20th, – Day 0.  

The number of sunrises corresponding to each day of the trip totals eighty! 

When Michael Palin returned from his televised sojourn, with time to spare, he reached the Reform Club, and was denied entry, no welcome at all. The Hector was determined that our trip would not end as a damp squib, and so an invitation to dine at Yadgar, Glasgow’s finest Curry House, was sent to the usual suspects.

This also happened to the #150 review of Yadgar in Curry-Heute!

Later, we retired across the River Clyde for a refreshment, Cider after Curry is the custom, then a Hazy, as I have come to know NEIPA. I can still face them.

By chance, Graham, last seen in Wellington, New Zealand, was also in attendance.

QED.  As all the posts appear in reverse, here’s a link to the beginning, for those who missed it:

Around The World In Eighty Days : Days 0 – 5

Posted in Glasgow, London | Comments Off on Around The World In Eighty Days : Days 79 – 80

Boston MA : Around The World In 80 Days – Days 76 – 78

Posted on June 3, 2024 by Hector

Day 76 – Monday, June 3rd Albany NY to Boston MA, via Springfield MA & Charlton MA

Maggie phoned in sick, somehow she has acquired a blocked sinus with a constant stream from one nostril, sound familiar? The Toronto Bug has reached Albany NY. Marg would do the driving today, all of it. 270Km, a less than three hour drive east on Interstate 90, but there would be two crucial stops.

Maggie wanted to go to a Walmart, grandchildren would be impressed by anything purchased there, we were told. Walmart sell everything, allegedly. Tracy wanted Maggie to bring her back tinned tuna, not just any ordinary tuna – Brand X. The Hector thought he would investigate assault weapons, fully automatic ones of course. Hold luggage.

Walmart Supercenter in Springfield MA was the chosen venue. Taking Marg to Springfield, it had to be done.

What a letdown, OK, it was vast, but in terms of clothing, crap. The required brand of tuna was secured, Maggie bought very little otherwise. Meanwhile, the Hector stood in the shade at the doorway watching the handy Oppo. Gibraltar 0 v 2 Scotland, a warm-up match for the forthcoming Euros, and Scotland have qualified for the first time in a long time. What could possibly go wrong?

What should have been a forty five minute drive to Charlton MA was extended by missing a turn off, a lengthy diversion then roadworks. Unperturbed, we eventually reached Tree House Brewing Company, a much recommended venue by peeps back home. The counterpoint to Copper Pig, Lancaster NH, on our way west towards Burlington VT, Tree House proved to be another Bier Disneyland.

Having parked up in the huge car park, yes, US citizens are encouraged to drink & drive, the goldfish pond at the entrance was enough to keep Marg amused, until she found some greyhounds.

Meanwhile, the rest of us were wondering where to start, just the five NEIPAs to choose from. As with Northway Brewing Co., Queensbury NY, a couple of days back, we could have just stayed here. But having to navigate places, restrictions, – not this right –  it’s unfair to Marg, especially when we would hit the rush hour traffic in Boston MA.

A huge premises, one bar and a formal queuing system, a sensible start was required.

Daze Peach at 6.9%, a NEIPA with the full milkshake haze had a decent body and tasted fruity. There was a bit of what I call the – Polish Aftertaste – when a possibly yeasty dryness is experienced on swallowing. A mark down, and no hops were declared.

Where to drink my Bier?

Drinking in the sunshine is a no-no. Almost nobody else was inside, Fortunately there was an extensive covered area just out from the bar, an ideal location this afternoon.

Food was required, Marg went off to the food truck to investigate. When offered the choice of pulled pork or a burger, the latter wins every time. The size of the bun and hence the burger was minuscule, a Scottish roll should set the standard. So hungry was the Hector, Dr. Stan came to the rescue with a top-up burger. American food, seriously awful, I should set up a chain serving – Mince & Tatties.

Rainbow at 8.1%, steady on, Hector, an Imperial IPA / NEIPA, this was a winner. The full milkshake haze, big body, an oh the mouthfeel, smooth as smooth can be. Juicy, fruity, no bitterness, this was similar to a tropical mango lassi, but with a kick.

Yes, I’ll have another. Imagine having this on one’s doorstep, being able to walk home, or be within Uber range. Marg, our designated driver, drove us back to Boston.

Found Hotel Boston Common on Charles Street was not chosen just for its Downtown location, we needed to park the car which we have for two more days. There is a car park across the street.

As with Seattle WA, hotel prices in Boston MA are absurd. Never have I paid so much for so little. On seeing his comparable room, Dr. Stan wondered how two people could fit in. We had a glorified cupboard, at least it was en suite. Some reportedly turn up to find they are sharing in a dorm.

Still, sleeping is all we were here for, time to get out and do more of Boston.

Somehow, people were hungry. Having decided to finish this trip on an Albany NY high, Curry-Heute in Boston MA was dismissed in favour of that other Asian cuisine. Chinatown was metres from Charles Street, at least the locus of Found Hotel is favourable. Some venues were packed, we chose a quieter, hence lesser venue – Dumpling Cafe.  Lesser, a bit seedy. See what happens when Hector is not wearing his Curry-Heute hat.  I’m not a fan of Chinese Dumplings. 

If Fawlty Towers was ever remade for a Chinese audience, they could set it here. OK, our waitress’ English was way better than our Cantonese, or whatever, but how she could front a house remains a mystery. The barking-like delivery started to amuse. With Fish in mind for a main course, I thought a Soup could be a worthwhile starter. Apparently there are menu combinations which permit this, others not.

Sma’ Soup – I deduced, implied, that others were large. Needless to say, we ended up with way more food than we could manage and not presented in any logical order.

Chaos, but a filling meal.

A Bier, nearby, was the call. The Corner Pub proved to be a serendipitous choice.

The usual American sports were featured on the TV screens, how I look forward to seeing real sport, you know the ones the rest of the World compete in. There were no highlights from the Scotland match.

The problem of finding a Bier to match the quality enjoyed in the last few days was solved, a CAN.

Cloud Candy (Mighty Squirrel, Waltham MA) at 5.5%, a DDH-NEIPA had the full milkshake haze and a body to match the abv. Dry tasting with a sense of the hops coming through, this did the job. Citra, Mosaic and Amarillo hops featured, a tasty Bier.

It is always the ladies who tire first, just as we chaps are getting into – the zone.

Brewery, bar and restaurant visited today:

Tree House Brewing Company – 129 Sturbridge Rd, Charlton, MA 01507

Corner Pub Boston – 162 Lincoln St, Boston, MA 02111

Dumpling Cafe – 695 Washington St, Boston, MA 02111

Day 77 – Tuesday, June 4th Boston MA + Weymouth MA

The final Big Bier Day of RTW-80, Vitamin Sea, a short drive down to Weymouth, Greater Boston, was scheduled for the afternoon. Before that, Marg was keen to take me to a cafe she had found around the corner from our ridiculously expensive and decidedly bijou hotel.

En route, I appear to have started a Boston drain cover collection.

Cafe Darq was suitably bright, airy and served the Hector his morning coffee: Cafe-Freddo, a change from Americano with hot milk on the side. What cheesecake? Actually, this makes me wonder, arriving in Honolulu, we made a beeline to The Cheesecake Factory, a treat never repeated. The one here in Boston MA, totally ignored, but then that is not the purpose of our ten day tour of New England.

With Maggie still self certificating, Marg was on driving duty all day. Interstate 9, then MA – 3, was the simple route south out of Boston. That the Hector managed to get Dorchester Brewing into the Oppo as our end destination did not help. Around 14.00, all of Boston appeared to have finished work already, the roads were way busier than when we arrived back yesterday at supposedly the rush hour.

Once on the Interstate, all was fine, Vitamin Sea was easy to locate, though Marg would be asked to move The Beast as some were not happy with our chosen parking spot outside.

There was an office party being held on the far side of the Taproom, we chose our table as far away as possible. The girl behind the bar was excellent, very helpful, tasters all round.

I have have one Vitamin Sea Bier previously, Foil, a 7.2% NEIPA which made me write Brett in my tasting notes. There probably wasn’t but that’s how it reacted on the palate. That was back in 2021 at Northern Monk (Manchester, England).  

Not encouraging.

Today, there was no holding back: The House Always Wins, a 6.8% NEIPA would be consumed by the pint. This was as good as it gets: no tartness, smooth, and the glorious Nelson Sauvin hops. I am again looking forward to being home and asking if anyone has actually been to Nelson? The office party dissipated, a more relaxed atmosphere ensued, now the Hector could examine the t-shirts at ease. Once again, no embroidered t-shirts, or better still – polo. The USA is years behind Europe. With the Hawaiian motif on the t-shirt, I had to have one despite it being a transfer. The cotton was oh so smooth. Not the jazziest t-shirt by any means but with this level of comfort, one I shall certainly wear.

Time to try a different Bier. Au Jus, a more challenging 7.9% ADIPA again had the full milkshake haze, smooth and juicy, like mango juice. With Galaxy and Simcoe hops, this was dangerously easy to drink. Sense prevailed, The House Always Wins would become the session Bier.

Three minutes away lay Barrel HouseZ, another brewery. There be no Hazy Bier at Barrel House Z, and so we were happy to stay at Vitamin Sea as long as Marg permitted. She did go for a walk, this prolonged our stay. Although we had a city centre brewery still to investigate this evening, leaving Vitamin Sea did mark the end of the trip in many ways. Our last Bier definitely at source.

Back to Boston MA and The Beast parked, a mere $30.00 a day, a pity we can’t  sleep in the car.

We had passed Rock Bottom Restaurant & Brewery last night, again, just around the corner from our hotel. They claim it’s active, not just a taproom for the Denver CO based brewery. The Bier was nothing special, far too mainstream. We needed food more than Bier.

$18.00 for a piece of Sirloin could have been good value, we hadn’t seen the size of the steak. It was OK, but the accompanying Veg was a bit stingy. The Fish & Chips looked miserly.

Their so-called Kolsch at 4.8% was nothing like a Kölsch. Not clear, it just tasted like a Lager, a lesser one.

Following Dr. Stan’s lead, time to go dark: Black Lager at 4.0%, the House Stout, was little more than black water.

As poor as the final Bier of the trip was, I wasn’t caring much, we had had more than our usual quota at Vitamin Sea, that should become the lasting memory of the final full day… also Maggie in full handkerchief mode.

Breweries and cafe visited today:

Vitamin Sea Brewing – 30 Moore Rd, Weymouth, MA 02189

Rock Bottom Restaurant & Brewery – 115 Stuart St, Boston, MA 02116

Cafe Darq – 38 Beach St, Boston, MA 02111

Day 78 – Wednesday, June 5th, Boston MA to London

With an overnight flight back to Heathrow, we had a morning and afternoon to kill. Firstly, three of us bade farewell to Clive and Maggie who, not content with ten days touring New England, feel that whilst they’re here, they may as well visit The Big Apple. A train journey down the coast was their chosen route.

Not for the first time, we ended up at Boston Common. Finally, the Hector got to walk up the hill to see what was is at the top.

Marg had already nominated today’s eatery, little did she know what she had selected. Bakey, a Deli, so one way of avoiding the usual rubbish.

What Marg could not have picked up on, this was a Jewish Deli, the Shabbat Bread a dead giveaway. I’ve been trying for years to source both this and a Sweet & Sour loaf in Glasgow for decades. An elaborate tuna sandwich became the Hector choice.

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As we ate, so a chap asked us if we were enjoying the fayre.

As our pleasure was being relayed so it was revealed that this was Graham, CEO of Bakey! A photo opperchancity not to be missed.

Back out in the sunshine, Hector’s collection of Boston MA drain covers reached its conclusion. Can three be called a set? Not wishing to stray far, we found ourselves back at Rock Bottom. Soft drinks all round, but nothing can be that simple.

We took bar stools in the near empty bar-restaurant. What a mistake to make…

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I can’t serve you at the bar if you’re sitting.

We retired to an empty table, they all were.

I can’t serve you at at table if you’re not eating, you have to sit at the bar.

We returned to the bar and, ordered our drinks whilst standing, then took bar stools. Simples.

Eventually it was agreed, there was nothing else to do but go to the airport. Maggie had extended the car hire such that we would drop off The Beast at the Hertz depot. It turned out there was just one seemingly continuous drop-off facility.

The Beast was examined by the official, all was well. Farewell.

A British Airways flight, only our third on this trip, yet it was BA we had paid for our One World – Round The World ticket. Flight BA 212 departing at 19.10, due in at Heathrow at 06.50. Somehow, a seven hour flight would feel like no challenge at all.

Gain, there was no strain waiting in the departure lounge. At a rough estimate, on this trip, we have spent more than two days in departure lounges waiting for flights. These are the bits they don’t show in TV travelogues.

A final nibble before leaving the USA, Sal’s Pizza, not too shabby, and way better than that Original Deep Pan at Pizzeria Uno (Chicago IL) nonsense.

I feel I have seen the best of the crop of in-flight movies, fortunately, I have still had plenty of my own stuff to watch, then there’s the not too small matter of keeping up with this Blog.

Good night.

Brewery and cafes visited today:

Rock Bottom Restaurant & Brewery – 115 Stuart St, Boston, MA 02116

Bakey – 151 Tremont St, Boston, MA 02111

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Albany NY : Around The World In 80 Days – Days 74 – 75

Posted on June 1, 2024 by Hector

Day 74 – Saturday, June 1st Burlington VT to Albany NY, via Queensbury NY

An hour or so to the north of Burlington VT lies Montreal, Canada, but that’s not part of our New England trip. Technically, New York State is not either.

Today we headed south to Albany NY, the New York State capital. Dr. Stan and Hector would not deny that having visited Albany OR on our previous Bier Trip, there was added motivation to do another one.

There had to be a lunch stop, and that had to include Bier. The Hector was charged with choosing the locus, Northway Brewing Company, Queensbury NY, surrounded on three sides by Glen Falls, it’s complicated, appeared to have what we sought. Just over a two hour drive, with Maggie at the wheel, firstly on US-7 S then VT-22A S. Being a Saturday, options were many, Northway should be open, and stocked NEIPA.

The scenery on the drive south was more open, less forestry, nothing dramatic. The alert and vigilant navigator got us to Queensbury NY in good time, hampered only by an ongoing sinus problem, one side blocked, the other streaming. As long as the taste-buds were not being interfered with.

Northway Brewing turned out to be an excellent choice, spacious, five NEIPAs from which to choose, and food.

As is too often the case the house t-shirts were not worth bothering about. Can nobody in the USA embroider?

Avenue of the Pines at 7.2%, a NEIPA of course, was yellow but way less hazy than hoped for. Suitably Dry tasting, the hops were right there. Just the six hops featured: Galaxy, Citra, Mosaic, Amarillo, Simcoe and Idaho 7, and these had not just been waved over the glass. Avenue of The Pines may not have looked the part, it did the job.

No doubt, Dr. Stan had something different, but it’s hard enough keeping my own database in order.

The ladies, were inside, then they were outside. Maggie asked if we could just stay here all day.

Mango Milkshake IPA at 7.5% again did not have the expected haze. Fruity, juicy with a slight sweetness, the body was big. This was a Bier to behold, Citra, Mosaic, Waimea and Kohata hops, all playing their part. It was Hector’s turn to consider staying longer, but no.

Even The Fun Spot located on the edge of the Northway car park didn’t entice the children to stay longer. Northway Brewing, an unexpected bonus, but then is that not what our journey of exploration is about?

Fairfield Inn & Suites Albany Downtown was to be our place of nocturnal repose for the next two nights. With Marg at the wheel, we headed south on Interstate 87 then 787, an hour’s drive to Albany NY. The final loop around Broadway was completed with comparative ease. On pulling up at the hotel, there was a loading zone. I jumped out to get things sorted.

Convinced we had valet parking here also, the chap on duty at reception soon put me right. That we could park anywhere was immediately doubted. But being late Saturday afternoon, there were fewer restrictions, we should be OK on the street until early Monday morning.

The chap was full of himself, an arsehole might begin to describe him. Marg and I reached our room on a high floor. Wondering about the noise, we looked out the window to establish the source.

The cooling system was metres away, right above us. A change of room please. Clive and Maggie were given a room with no window, had they paid for one? Dr. Stan had the best of the three.

Whilst the rest waited, Marg and I took The Beast for a short drive to find a secure and free parking spot. Luckily we found a space a few doors down State Street.

The southeastern end of State Street meets Broadway at the SUNY System Administration Building. an unusual name for the former Delaware & Hudson Railroad Company Building, now also known as the – Castle. 

From here, the breweries lie to the north on the west bank of the Hudson River.

Fidens Brewing Company, the first of a cluster of four, was the prime objective. Fidens turned out to be a Bier Paradise.

En route we passed some points of interest including a building (below) that could easily have been found in Brugge (Belgium), some colonial architecture has survived.

Still busy with family groups, we secured a table way through to the rear. The atmosphere soon improved, a wean curfew? There were more NEIPAs than a Hector could dream of, and each one turned out to have the full – milkshake haze. Clive had to inform us that he had enjoyed Fidens at The Ghost Whale, Putney (London), the week before the trip.

Who cared, we were about to have it at source.

Lily (formerly Socratic Questioning) at 8.2% was the starter, no holding back. No idea what the hops are, had I stuck with this, I would have had no idea about anything. This had the body, the flavours, glorious.

If 8.2% wasn’t holding back, my next two were 8.5%! We’re here, savour the moment.

The Butcher, a NEDIPA again had everything, and with Mosaic, Galaxy and Nelson hops, no wonder. Had I stuck with Lily, I wouldn’t have had The Butcher and maybe not Accelerant.

Again, 8.5%, Accelerant had Nelson, Motueka, Citra and Rakau hops, I didn’t get this weeks back in New Zealand. Juicy, fruity, the big hop hit, so smooth on the palate, dangerous.

There was a major dilemma looming. Fidens would close at 23.00 or thereabouts, this Saturday evening. Stay here to the bitter end then call it a night, or walk back to the city centre and go clubbing? Well, not quite.

The City Beer Hall, a couple of blocks up from our hotel, was reportedly open until 02.00, that should suffice. A walk would do us good, though Clive and Maggie followed by Uber. At least we got to see some of Downtown Albany NY by night.

The – colonial building – proved to be a thriving bar/restaurant, befitting its appearance. That I took the photos by day and night might suggest I was missing Europe, or was just surprised at seeing something like this at all in the USA.

The City Beer Hall, housed in another vintage, well for the USA, and impressive building.

If I ever return to New York NY, then Brooklyn is probably where I would stay. Marg and I had a good day there back in 2013, despite ending up in the bowling alley adjacent to the Brooklyn Brewery. Both my choices at The City Beer Hall were from Brooklyn breweries.

Time to come off the mountain. Rabe (Other Half, Brooklyn, NY) at a mere 5.0% was not a bad choice. Despite drinking at its abv, the hoped for hop flavours disitnctly present. Cashmere, Citra and Simcoe were the hops.

We waited for the others to arrive, meaning there was actually time for two of the next Bier and Marg hit the Baileys.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Inside Voice (Threes Brewing, Brooklyn, NY) at 8.0% saw a worthy continuation of the fun. A New Zealand Hazy DIPA, featuring Moutere, Peacharine, Nelson Sauvin and Motueka hops.  With the full haze, body and hop hit, another sensation.  

We were well and truly – in the zone.

At least, home was downhill.

Breweries and bar visited today:

Northway Brewing Co. – 1043 US-9, Queensbury, NY 12804, United States

Fidens Brewing Company : 897 Broadway, Albany, NY 12207, United States

The City Beer Hall : 42 Howard St, Albany, NY 12207, United States

Day 75 – Sunday, June 2nd Albany NY

Yesterday was a good day, today was even better. Yesterday was all about the Bier, today had so much more. Little did I expect to find my third outstanding USA Curry House, and after I had basically stopped looking. Three breweries and an unexpected windfall also made the day not too shabby. But first, a bit of Albany NY tourism.

Marg had done a bit of a recce whilst out maintaining her morning fitness regime. Hence, or otherwise, we headed down, crossing under the Interstate, to the Hudson River. Seeing the stretch of water previously seen in NYC was one attraction, seeing the last US Navy destroyer afloat, the other.

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OK, the USS Slater was modest in comparison to USS Missouri explored way back on Day 44 at Pearl Harbor. Nor did we take the time, or pay the money, to board.

Retracing our steps we encountered the local nutter, it has been a few days since the last one. Fortunately, he was happy to interact from across the street, and popping in to a souvenir shop saw the back of him. Cue the fridge magnet.

State Street, a good pace to stay, not that we fully appreciated this at the time of booking. The City Beer Hall was seen in daylight as were a couple more interesting sights, then we were upon the complex featuring, eventually, The State Capitol.

General Philip Henry Sheridan was a major player in the US Civil War.

The retired Geographer mentions Sheridan due to his involvement in the establishing of Yellowstone National Park. So much for John Muir, the Scotsman who played a key role in the establishment of US National Parks.

The Empire State Plaza afforded views back across the city and the challenge of securing a photo with vertical buildings and no stragglers invading.

After a few attempts, the Hector got what he wanted. The Egg had to be captured.

The Capitol Building itself, another fine piece of architecture, proved to be less significant than the – I Love NY – sign. So it goes.

Hector had yet to eat, Curry had been dismissed as online research to date revealed nowhere which looked better than Mainstream. There was the possibility of a Kebap shop if we continued in our north-westerly direction towards Washington Park. Marg pressed the panic button, coffee and cake was required – immediately.

Lark Street to the rescue, although my first suggestion – Daily Grind – proved to be unsatisfactory, serendipity, – Bitchin Donuts – turned out to be both satisfying and quirky.

Marg had her coffee & Cake, Hector an iced coffee only because suddenly Curry became a possibility.

Jewel of India on Lark had triggered a renewed interest in having at least Tandoori today. Bangladeshi, not my first choice. Then an address with two venues: Gandhi / Curry Leaf listing – Punjabi Korma – in the menu.

Hector was on a mission, but not before we were engaged in conversation with the adjacent couple in Bitchin Donuts. By the time we departed, they may have just about understood the makeup of the British Isles.

And it came to pass that Curry Leaf delivered the goods, another outstanding US Curry, and probably my last on this trip. But then I thought that would be the case at Shalimar of India (Burlington VT).

We had a 15.00 rendezvous at Fort Orange Brewing, a forty minute walk from Curry Leaf. Our route took us between Arbor Hill and Sheridan Hollow, a memorable walk. A residential area, populated by mostly African Americans, well they were the ones sitting on the steps outside the terraced houses which was reminiscent of a scene from many a movie. We crossed the road a couple of times to avoid engagement, two Caspar Milquetoasts at large.

As we reached Broadway once more, the sight that would certainly make Marg’s day, was encountered.

The World’s Largest Nipper, or so the statue sitting atop an industrial building is called. Crazy.

Dr. Stan was the lone drinker at Fort Orange, though another chap entered before I could purchase my Cider. Cider is the preferred tipple after Curry.

Signature Cider (Nine Pin Cider Works, Albany NY) at 6.7% was available in a CAN only. Clear, dry, full on, it tasted of apples! I had a few Ciders in similar circumstances back in 2018, never had a bad one. They could teach the British a thing or two, keg Cider of course.

At this point I didn’t know that Nine Pin was around the corner.

The chap serving was most amenable, well he had few people to talk to, we were strangers. Clive and Maggie were en route, but they don’t move that quickly, so the Hector was finishing his Bier as they arrived.

I had to have a Bier at source, no point being here otherwise. Clouded Vision at 6.7% was a worthy NEIPA. With the full milkshake haze and a body matching the abv, not disappointing. Citra and Galaxy were the hops. OK, not as good as Fidens.

The next hour was particularity strange. Dr. Stan stayed on at Fort Orange to keep Clive and Magie company. Marg and Hector headed back towards Fidens, but Marg decided her book would be more interesting.

Marg took refuge at Nine Pin where she had a Fruit Cider, at source. Clive soon joined me at Fidens, Maggie decided it was time to have a ladies’ hour. 

Maggie has declared two sub-missions on this trip: to visit a Walmart, scheduled for tomorrow, and go to a Diner. There was a Diner nearby, they didn’t did they?  Where was Dr. Stan?

A Sunday afternoon, Fidens was way quieter than yesterday. Clive and Hector took the opperchancity to establish ourselves on stools at the bar.

Jasper w / Nelson at 7.9%, a DNEIPA, no holding back, was good and might even have been better. Despite a Curry and the Cider to follow, the bunged sinuses were back. Anyway, the full milkshake Haze, a big body, dry and giving off juicy-fruit, another winner. Citra and Nelson Sauvin hops, a welcome combination.

Established, we were. A local engaged us in conversation at the bar. The usual bits were got out of the way, then it all turned weird, frightening even. I am not sure if – red-neck – is an appropriate description, – Republican – and – delusional – certainly is. When asked what we thought about the candidates in the forthcoming US election – is that the only two people in your entire nation that you can find? – seemed like a fair response. I had used this previously, it worked, not today. We were advised that – Biden is the devil.

The corollary had Clive and Hector pick up our glasses and move to a safer seat. Apparently – god is on Trump’s side. What chance humanity?

We were five again. Food was called for by some, proof that Maggie had gone to a Diner?

The Hector was replete already, more Bier.

Necessary Means for a Necessary Means at a mere 8.4% was going to take some beating. Throughout this trip, I have resisted the temptation to drink DIPAs this early, being fair to Marg. To that end I know I have certainly missed out on some potentially wonderful Biers. However, the New England stretch is all about Bier, so be it. A DDH NEDIPA, an instant – wow! Every Fidens consumed has had the full milkshake Haze, appropriate body, but here the mouthfeel was simply glorious. Citra and Mosaic hops, blended to perfection. It was time to declare –The McVittie Arms. More of the same please.

To stay until 21.00 closing was tempting. However, Druthers Brewing Company had to be investigated, again a 21.00 closing time. This involved a walk back in the direction of Fort Orange, Marg decided to have a timeout, the book must be good. Marg walked back to the Fairfield Inn.

Druthers have a number brew-plants in the towns around Albany NY. This place was huge. Not just a brewery, so – at source – was not in doubt, there was a full bar menu and food on offer.

The only issue, how could their Bier follow Fidens? That my sensible choice was not on tap as advertised meant a CAN.

The invitingly named Citra Curious Nelson at 7.2% had to be sampled regardless. It had the milkshake Haze appearance but after Fidens, tasted sharp on the palate. Citra and Nelson Sauvin hops, where have I had that before, this Bier was not doing it for me.

We had chosen a table well away from the bar, there was a birthday party underway at the nearest table.

The ever amenable Hector burst into action. Why have group photos with the photographer missing? The father of the birthday-daughter engaged us thereafter. Touring New England just to visit breweries struck a chord.

I may have mentioned that this was Day 75 of RTW-80. As the birthday troupe departed so daddy came over to bid us farewell. He dropped a $50.00 note on our table –

Have a beer on me!

And so, on our return home, Druthers Brewing Company shall no doubt live long in the lore. 

Time for a tap Bier. Double The Reason, an 8.0% IPA – DDH NEIPA – again had the full Haze and body. This time, the palate adjusted to the sharpness.

Walk back, and waste VDT? An Uber was summoned, back to the Fairfield. Marg was ready to come out to play, Clive and Maggie called it a night. Dr. Stan was still willing to sample another Bier.

The three of us headed up State Street, this time Albany War Room Tavern was the objective.

We were the first customers of the shift as we entered the basement bar at 21.40. 

Fiddlehead IPA, enjoyed a few days ago at The Elephant and Castle (Boston MA), was the best Bier on offer.

The waitress was extraordinary. Movies often feature intellectuals doing bar work, this evening we were in that movie. The history of the bar was related, the dignitaries who have frequented these premises. We came for the Bier, the experience was certainly being enhanced. For once, the waitress earned her tip.

Breweries, bar, restaurant, and cafe visited today:

Fort Orange Brewing : 450 N Pearl St, Albany, NY 12204, United States

Fidens Brewing Company : 897 Broadway, Albany, NY 12207, United States

Druthers Brewing Company : 1053 Broadway, Albany, NY 12204, United States

Albany War Room Tavern : 42 Eagle St, Albany, NY 12207, United States

Curry Leaf : 1 Central Ave, Albany, NY 12210, United States

Bitchin Donuts : 193 Lark St, Albany, NY 12210, United States

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Burlington VT : Around The World in 80 Days – Days 72 – 73

Posted on May 30, 2024 by Hector

Day 72 – Thursday, May 30th Portland ME to Burlington VT, via Lancaster NH

Today, the day we picked up the hire car at Portland International Jetport, it’s also Dr. Stan’s birthday! Marg and Maggie are sharing the driving with Hector the Navigator on duty throughout the next seven days.

There was a call for breakfast before setting off from Portland Harbor Hotel where we still felt there was a raw deal. You cannot send out notifications of included breakfast then withdraw this at check-in.

In her morning run, Marg had identified Becky’s Diner as being a suitable breakfast menu. Having herded the cats then schlepped along the street, Becky’s was found to be queued out. About turn.

The Hector quickly suggested Salt Yard Cafe & Bar which we had passed en route.

A spacious premises, no problem securing a seat, just finding food of interest.

Well, the others had no issue. It should be clear by now that Hector and breakfast are strangers. Also what is the point of buying food for the sake of it? Especially from the tiresome and ubiquitous US menu.

Knowing how to get to the Jetport by bus is one thing, having five find the right fare and manhandle the baggage, something else. Hector was charged with sorting an Uber, and so it came to be.

However, the Highway Patrol had other ideas. Our taxi was followed on the app, as it exited the Casco Bay Bridge, so the driver was pulled over. We of course had no idea why there was now a twenty minute delay. Our driver filled us in when finally he reached Portland Harbor Hotel, if he had been caught using his phone whilst driving, he was a very naughty boy..

Our driver knew exactly where in the terminal complex the Hertz desk was to be found, simples. Time for Maggie to stand up and do her bit. Having Marg named as second driver had to be done today for reasons known only to Hertz and their online booking system. Don’t even think about phoning the Hertz office at Jetport, they do not answer.

A six seater Toyota hybrid, henceforth referred to as – The Beast. For us, a massive vehicle, but then everyone who has driven us in Australia, New Zealand and Canada have all opted for SUVs rather than – a car. Maggie familiarised herself with the controls, Hector would ride shotgun, Dr. Stan and Clive were allocated the individual seats mid vehicle, and Marg, the non-driver at this time, was placed in the smaller bench seat in the rear. Still, quite an upgrade from the – rumble seat – made famous in old American movies.

To reach Vermont we had to drive across New Hampshire in a north-westerly direction, one US state in a day. We had three places to visit in New Hampshire, firstly a Columbia Sportswear shop. North Conway was more or less en route.

Highway 25 then Route 113 took us there in ninety minutes. To describe the journey as scenic would be an exaggeration. The view was mostly forest with gaps in the forest leading to more forest. Fortunately, the Hector had a real objective declared in advance.

Marg and Hector may have visited a Columbia outlet in the past week in Ontario, that did not stop more bargains being liberated. Clive refuses to wear anything but Columbia shoes, nowhere good as they used to be, cf Portland OR on Dr. Stan’s Big Birthday Trip. Being his birthday Marg insisted we buy Dr. Stan a present. Where’s me shirt?

The following minutes were difficult. In the same retail park was Haveli Indian cuisine, and it was open. By now, the Hector had an appetite and we had already picked out our lunch stop.

Worse, across the street, Sea Dog Brewing Company was open. Just the thirty taps, including intersteng Hazy and DIPA. Temptation, but there was still a state to cross.

Lancaster NH was the next scheduled stop, just over an hour away. Route 302 more or less got us there.

In Lancaster lies Copper Pig Brewery, sited on the banks of the Israel River.

A basement brewery tap and restaurant, it was surprisingly busy mid-afternoon, but then I don’t know what else this town has to offer.

Covering many styles of Bier, Copper Pig disappointed when it was announced that their NEIPA – was aff!

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Copper Lager at 5.9%, a dark, ruby-red Lager proved to be adequate. A German style Lager, despite the appearance. For food, the Hector went Mexican.

The agreed driving deal for this trip is: Maggie drives us to the brewery, Marg drives us home. Therefore on leaving Copper Pig, Marg had to familiarise herself with – The Beast.

Maybe, most certainly, we could have found a better venue in all of New Hampshire between Portland ME and Burlington VT, but just outside Lancaster NH was where today’s Hector Highlight is located.

My mental picture of New England was lots of covered bridges, a la The Bridges of Madison County. When Dr. Stan and I sat in The Three Judges (Glasgow) planning this leg of RTW-80, I suggested we add a covered bridge, or two, into our route. It was only then that we established that Madison County is in Iowa, future birthplace of Captain James T Kirk. The Hector was not put off.

Historic Mount Orne Covered Bridge crosses the Connecticut River at the boundary of New Hampshire and Vermont. By getting out of the car to take the photos on the far side, the Hector therefore became the first in our group to set foot in Vermont!

On the final leg of the journey today, the Hector was to discover that he had taken on quite a responsibility. It was OK for Dr. Stan, time for his mid-afternoon nap. Clive was quiet also. The Hector not only had to navigate, but stay awake, else who knows where we would have ended up.

I shall insert an aside: way back when Marg and Hector did the Altmuhltal (Deutschland) breweries, I set Marg the objective: stay on this autobahn towards Nürnberg, do not come off.

Ninety minutes later: Marg, why are we 19km from Stuttgart?

A quick dive down on Route 100, then Interstate 89W, had us in Burlington VT in an hour. The Hilton Garden Inn Burlington Downtown has valet parking. A novelty for us both, and part of the reason why we selected such plush accommodation. Cheaper venues to the north of the city had reviews often mentioning car break-ins. That we could do without.

We had a pukkah room, albeit in a remote part of the hotel, it was declared Bier Time. The best looking breweries are to the south of the city, so with the car parked up for the night, it was a matter of stay local, find Bier. Also, 22.00 was their typical closing time, no time to waste.

One never appreciates the true size of a Downtown area until one is on the ground. On the next block up from the hotel lies What Ale’s You, this looked like a good place to start. Basement premises, the five of us were given the once over in what we quickly established was a student bar. The place was empty, we were not turned away, but quickly left. The simple reason – no Bier!

Across the way, Manhattan’s and quite a throng of yoofs gathered outside. The Hector strode towards the door. An entity sitting on a stool again gave me the look up and down. I looked down:

Is it Halloween?

I have seen everything on this trip, I’ll take the reader back to a certain bus journey in Chicago IL. There I knew what we were dealing with, tonight, what was this character trying to – identify – as?

There was Bier, decent Bier as it turned out, but way too much noise, not our scene. Still, there was a drooth, and so we stayed to sample the fine ale.

Conehead Haze (Zero Gravity Craft Brewery, Burlington VT, USA) at 6.3% was the obvious Bier to start off the evening. A 6.3% NEIPA, suitably Hazy, the body matched the abv, but the Motueka, Simcoe and El Dorado hops lacked the hoped for intensity.  Zero Gravity is on the agenda for tomorrow.

Despite having secured a table there was no sense of comfort in this bar. The loud music was such that conversation was nigh on impossible. Imagine wanting to have a conversation with friends on a night out.

The Archives was calling. A short walk north past town hall, Springfield, all of them, and Back To The Future came to mind, do all US regional cities have the same layout?

Entry to The Archives involved less scanning, still waiting to be asked for ID.

A large bar with an area behind full of adult toys, despite the potential for a Vegas-style racket, a much better atmosphere. There was much more of a welcome here, and there was Bier.

Mastermind (Fiddlehead Brewing Co., Shelburne VT, USA), an 8.1% DIPA had the full milkshake haze and a body which confirmed the classification. Well it was getting late, if it’s not time for a DIPA, then when? The 80-IBU surely contradicts the style? No hops information is forthcoming, not that they were prominent in the tasting. A smooth Bier, but not a big hitter.

Not wonderful, and there was time for the Hector to have another, and final Bier of this long day. Given how comparatively low the prices are at The Archives, no messing, let’s go – full.

Little Wizard (Burlington Beer Co., Burlington VT, USA) a mere 6.0% AIPA was chosen, no Porter tonight. This was in fact a NEIPA with the full milkshake haze and at last the hops were full on. Simcoe, Idaho 7 and Chinook featured. There was nothing here not to like, a Bier just a tad below – the wow!

Gone midnight, time for bed.

Breweries, bars and cafe visited today:

Copper Pig Brewery – 1 Middle Street, Lancaster NH, 03584 USA

Sea Dog Brewing Company – 1976 White Mountain Hwy #9, North Conway, NH 03860, USA

Manhattan’s – 167 Main St., Burlington VT 05401, USA (closed)

The Archives – 191 College St., Burlington VT 05401, USA

What Ale’s You – 152 St., Paul S., #4634 Burlington VT 05401, USA

Salt Yard Cafe & Bar – 285 Commercial St., Portland ME 04101

Day 73 – Friday, May 31st

Another action-packed day began with Marg out for her morning exercise which included an exploration of the lakeside, whilst the Hector got some more words written. Our rendezvous with the others was at 13.00, and so the Hector found himself out early with Marg retracing her steps.

The train station was two blocks down form the hotel, not that there is much noise disruption such is the sporadic service southwards to Albany NY and New York NY. Trains do not run east-west.

Lake Champlain, the sixth largest in USA, is a classic honeypot, all the usual activities understood. Ritual photos completed, we headed inland to explore Downtown Burlington.

Town Hall was classic small town, USA, the ubiquitous Back To The Future architecture, a facade first seen in the Universal Studios backlot on a school trip to Los Angeles in 2000. Downtown had the feeling

Burlington VT is the home of Ben & Jerry’s, we visited their Church Street outlet, a presumptive – source.

Ice Cream to start the day, but nothing – soft. Carpiagni/Taylor is always a welcome sight on an ice cream dispenser, when one cannot secure proper Ice Cream a la University Cafe (Glasgow, Scotland).

In the course of our meanderings we passed two venues close to our accommodation: The Vermont Pub & Brewery, and Three Needs, the latter, a dive bar, was open until 02.00 last night.

Noon is far too early for Curry, but if Burlington VT was to appear in Curry-Heute, needs must. I chose carefully from the four Downtown outlets. The Goat Curry at Shalimar of India took me by surprise, way better than I had envisaged, proper – Desi – Flavours. I wonder if the local population appreciate just how good Shalimar actually is? This Curry House stood well above the Mainstream.

The Beast was fetched by the valet chaps, with Maggie at the wheel, we headed back east towards Stowe VT,. Dr. Stan was not too taken with the intended first port of call but was not playing a veto card. How could we be so close to the von Trapp family estate, and brewery, and not pay homage?

On the edge of Burlington VT we passed the corporate headquarters of Ben & Jerry’s, nobody cried out that we must have their Ice Cream at the current source.

Von Trapp Brewing & Bierhall was under an hour away. It was quite a climb to get high on the hill, The Beast was not challenged. No Julie Andrews, no Christopher Plummer pulling Nazi regalia off the building front, and no weans conducting spontaneous singing. This was unlike any other rural Brauerei, von Trapp Brewing & Bierhall resembles a mega alpine lodge, stuffed animals mounted on the wall aplenty.

The Bier array was Deutschland-plus, or maybe in this case I should write Österreich. The Czech Tmave seemed out of place, and Kölsch was naughty. Many years ago in Kelheim (Bayern) I rediscovered Helles, it had to be.

With big expectations at our next port of call, an aperitif. At 4.9%, cold, yellow and fizzy, it was competent, not outstanding.

Dr. Stan was on board, I can sense what he feared when we arrived, A Bayersiche theme park perhaps? He was not amused when having ordered our – one Bier – he spotted gravity poured. We had a schedule to keep.

With Marg behind the wheel, an easy day for Maggie, we rolled down the hill to the one venue which Dr. Stan had highlighted at the conception of this trip – the place where new England IPA was conceived and first brewed.

The Alchemist Brewery was a matter of minutes away, a lowland setting, highly accessible to hikers, cyclists. Set in a park-like estate, magnificent. We entered the Brewery Tap with expectations as high as they could be. What awaited defied belief – one tap! Had it been a magical – straight five – NEIPA, all would have been forgiven, alas not. The wee girl manning the tap was less than efficient also, the crimes were piling up.

Heady Topper at 8.0% is not a session Bier. It poured suitably Hazy, but was not the full milkshake. Six hops were boasted, five declared: Apollo, Centennial, Columbus, Simcoe and Amarillo. Dry tasting, with the hops to the fore, this tasted too West Coast, WCIPA-DIPA is how it shall be recorded in Bier-Traveller. With an IBU of 100, this was not a NEIPA.

The Hector was not amused, Dr. Stan was not in raptures either. The blurb available for all to read stated that the owner believes his Bier tastes better from the CAN. We hadn’t travelled thousands of kilometres to drink canned Bier. We had come to worship, the Covenanters had won the day, their way or nothing.

The ladies led Clive outside to the expansive parkland, Dr. Stan and Hector were not drinking DIPA is the sunshine. A one Bier stop is not what was planned, more time for Burlington VT. As we exited the complex, so Marg was distracted by a pickup-load of dogs, brought no doubt for the amusement of the children. Nobody suggested we return to von Trapp.

There is a cluster of three breweries in the south of Burlington VT. Queen City Brewery was dismissed, sources suggested it didn’t have what we sought. Across the street from Queen City lies Zero Gravity Beer.

Conehead Haze at 6.3% was sampled last night, time to have it at source. It’s a pity there was no other comparable NEIPA to offer an alternative. It was deemed still to early to have Buck Buck Juice, a 9.0% DIPA. Electric Wheelie, also at 8.0% featured the dreaded – Talus.

Conehead was the safe bet, still enjoyable.

Others declared it time to eat, again. The Hector held out, and it was disappointing to have just the one at Zero Gravity. Had we stayed, maybe the Buck Buck Juice would have tempted.

Across the way, in an industrial estate lies Burlington Beer Company. We could have done damage here.

A spacious venue with an array of NEIPA/NEDIPA to select from, this could well have become a matter of – see you later. We still had The Beast, it was becoming unfair on Marg to still have her driving, getting the vehicle home before sunset was agreed, and so another one Bier stop.

Little Wizard at 6.0%, an AIPA/NEIPA was suitably Hazy, enjoyable. Featuring Simcoe, Idaho 7 and Chinook hops, a decent Bier, no more maybe.

If only we could have stayed. A third night in Burlington VT could well have been a good idea, but then the same applies to Portland ME. We are cramming so much into our ten days in New England, and there’s the small matte of keeping to RTW-80.

The Beast was abandoned. Approaching the lake, we pointed Clive and Maggie in the direction of our next brewery as Marg and Hector recorded sunset/twilight over Lake Champlain.

Foam Brewers was stowed, inside and out. Having queued for Bier, we commanded a table for five outside where the bugs would have supper. A Led Zeppelin tribute band got underway, the female vocalist doing not a bad Robert Plant simulation. With only guitar, bass and drums, it was the early Zeppelin material which was being performed.

As the night progressed, so further members joined the band on stage, the keyboard player, in particular, permitted a very fine rendering of – No Quarter (Houses of The Holy) – as good, as if not better than when I heard this unveiled at the Green’s Playhouse (Glasgow) on its release. Zeppelin were the first big-named live band I saw who disappointed.

Maybe the Hector was – in the zone – already, or maybe it was just a change of Bier style was required. Novocaine For The Soul at 8.2% was taking no prisoners. An Imperial Stout giving off Chocolate, Coffee and Cherries, the was a full blast on the palate. More!

Clive and Maggie faded first, as Dr. Stan does like Led Zep, so he stayed on, along with Marg who had now been liberated from driving duties and was making the best of it.

Foam Brewers was a great venue in terms of entertainment, had we come here first and found no NEIPA, the song would not have remained the same.

Breweries, cafe and restaurant visited today:

von Trapp Brewing & Bierhall–  1333 Luce Hill Rd, Stowe, VT 05672, United States of America

The Alchemist Brewery  – 100 Cottage Club Rd, Stowe, VT 05672, United States of America

Zero Gravity Beer  –  716 Pine St, Burlington, VT 05401, United States

Burlington Beer Company  –  180 Flynn Ave, Burlington, VT 05401, United States

Foam Brewers  –  112 Lake St, Burlington, VT 05401, United States

Ben & Jerry’s  –  36 Church St, Burlington, VT 05401, United States

Shalimar of India  –  16 N Winooski Ave, Burlington, VT 05401 USA

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Portland ME : Around The World in 80 Days – Days 70 – 71

Posted on May 28, 2024 by Hector

Day 70 – Tuesday, May 28th Boston MA to Portland ME

It was Dr. Stan who arranged the Amtrak tickets, as he had done for his 70th Birthday Trip. He knows how, and Hector had enough on his plate getting – Around The World. Portland ME, it had to be given that we have done Portland OR.

Dr. Stan, Clive and Maggie were intent on having breakfast at our hotel, as they had done for their two days previously. Just in case, the Hector was intent on going to North Station early. On the West Coast, Amtrak insisted on checking in luggage, we had no specific information on this in Massachusetts. However, given the rail network density on the East Coast, it did seem unlikely.

The Orange Line from Downtown Crossing was the obvious route to take. However, we found ourselves heading to Park St. and the Green Line. Being de-trained at Haymarket felt quite ironic, Waverley or bust.

North Station, oh, that big building, was well disguised as a major train station. I promised Marg breakfast, we walked through the food hall to reach the departure area. No check-in required, and no platform information until later.

There was an Indian Food stall, the chap manning it wasn’t able to serve any. Work that one out. A disgustingly large piece of Cheesecake was the chosen alternative, the drink bought at a different stand because that’s how it works.

All aboard. Les autres arrived in good time. We were travelling Business Class, on Train 863 at 11.50, a two and a half hour train journey.

Big seats and an inclusive drink marked a pleasant journey, and time to write up more of these pages.

Portland Centrale was no more than a platform in either direction. The path from the northbound platform led directly into Portland Transportation Center which was more of a bus station than a train station, and maybe just inside the city limits. Information for long distance buses was on screens, but how to get Downtown? A friendly Doris advised us to go outside and wait for Bus 5/7. The fare was £2.00 each, cash, Marg had a $10.00 note, an opperchancity to spend a piece of paper that may have come all the way from Glasgow.

Google Maps managed to insert an extra stop just before the one I had picked from which to alight. Dr. wasn’t fooled and stayed on the bus. Four of us marched downhill towards Fore Street and Portland Harbor Hotel.

Dr. Stan and Hector had chosen well. At a mere £170.00 per night, and paid in advance, Portland Harbor Hotel proved to be welcoming and spacious. The stairs in the lobby added a certain character, at least there was a lift up to reception.

There was an issue re inclusive breakfast. We had all received emails advising us that this bonus was due. Having consulted various members of management, this was proved to be spurious.

It was agreed that we would meet downstairs in thirty minutes. Clive and Maggie didn’t show. Three of us headed off along Fore Street to Gritty McDuff’s Brew Pub. A brewery on the street where we live, who planned this? Having established where Dr. Stan and I were going to be for the next hour or so, Marg disappeared off for ice cream.

Gritty McDuff’s was yet another bar claiming to be something it wasn’t. OK, I have been to some Tracey Islands on this trip where the brew plant has been well hidden, not here. Thunderbird 1 was not behind the wall and the Bier list on the wall was not setting the heather on fire.

A substantial venue with another room behind the bar, it appeared to be a mother and daughter who were manning it. Daughter knew hee-haw about the Bier.

Sensi IPA seemed to be only option, hopefully a NEIPA. At 6.2% it had too much haze, muddy, and too little body for the abv. Tart tasting, not the best, no need for another.

Let’s drink this and go – was my desire, alas, Clive and Maggie finally showed having misunderstood the rendezvous time. With the NEIPA not recommended, Clive and Maggie had something else. I took photos of the bar area. A locals’ pub – is how I would identify Gritty’s.

Brickyard Hollow Brewing Co. was just down the road in the harbour area. Why did I feel as though I was in Aberdoom? Brickyard Hollow was more like it, a proper industrial brewery outlet and a choice of NEIPA.

It was time to get our feet under the table. The serving chap gave the warmest of welcomes and would dutifully serve us at the table throughout our stay.

First up was Trestle a 6.8% NEIPA. Despite having a suitable haze and boasting Citra, Mosaic and Simcoe hops, the Bier was too thin for its abv and the hops were not hitting as powerfully as one hopes for. Above average, no more.

There was a need for food and so Buffalo Wings were duly ordered, Just how close was I to Buffalo NY a few days ago? Marg arrived in time to take the necessary photo of the gorging Hector.

Between us, we covered a fair representation of the food menu, everyone happy with their choice.

73 IPA at 6.3% had more haze and a greater sense of hops. Two of the three hops here were – Kiwi: Nelson Sauvin, Motueka and Citra. With fruity/juicy flavours coming across a better option, but still not quite – there.

Being later in the afternoon, it was time for a DIPA. Send It! at 7.6% wasn’t too silly. As with 73 IPA, the full milkshake haze and this certainly had the body. All US hops: Citra, Mosaic and Idaho 7, all sadly subdued.

Decent, but then the brain suggested a magic blend. Combining 73 IPA and Send It! might create a – magic mix. There was no opperchancity to experiment, we had a third and final brewery to get to in this port area and it was closing at 20.00.

Shipyard Brewing Company was a couple of blocks away and up a slight rise.

With no obvious entrance other than to the impressive Bier and clothing store, in we went. Marg would return here to purchase a zany fleece.

With no more luggage weight restrictions, the beginning of the madness? A pity there was no – Mushroomhead (CAN reference).

There was a ramp behind the serving Doris leading to the Taproom, why didn’t she tell us? Time for one Bier, and many choices, a pity we hadn’t started here.

Massive Haze IPA at 6.6% was a step down, The DIPA at 8.5% would have been braver. Gold, with maybe too muddy a haze, this NEIPA had the body was sharp on the palate. No hop information was forthcoming.

With tanks visible, but not necessarily brewing equipment, was this still the point of brewing? As near as, and the brewery website isn’t making life easy.

We had to take our leave, perhaps to our sorrow, but there was still life in the company.

We passed Liquid Riot, a brewery near enough the waterside. Due to close on June 2nd, never mind soon this evening, we walked on.

The Kings Head, on the quayside, just a Craft Beer pub, slumming it.

What a place, our new local, well it was just around the corner from our hotel. The far corner of the bar was where we plonked ourselves, where the action was, or would soon be.

Knowing The Good Doctor’s habits, it was time to follow him to the dark side. Flashlight Tag, an 8.0% Imperial Stout from Belleflower, a brewery on the agenda for tomorrow, was the tempting brew. Peanut butter and chocolate were full on. For once, the body seemed even higher than the abv. This was a joyous discovery, moreish, and why not?

With Maggie on the Brandy, Marg succumbed to a Lemoncello Spritz, then Bacardi & Coke. Party on.

For Hector, one final Bier, and back to the NEIPA. Resilience-Combover (Schilling Beer Company, New Hampshire / Resilience Brewing NH) at 6.7% had the full milkshake haze and was loaded with Vic Secret and Galaxy hops. And here, today’s saga ends, no tasting notes. Entschuldigung.

Breweries and bar visited today:

Gritty McDuff’s Brew Pub – 396 Fore St., Portland ME 04101

Brickyard Hollow Brewing Co. – 9 Commercial St. Portland, ME 04101

Shipyard Brewing Co. – 27 Hancock St, Portland, ME 04101

The King’s Head – 254 Commercial St, Portland, ME 04101

Day 71 – Wednesday, May 29th   Portland ME

A day without travel, apart from the walk to the land of the Breweries on Portland‘s  East Bayside, and an Uber home, as relaxing as this leg of – The Trip – is going to be in the final stages. As ever, Marg was out for her morning constitutional, the harbour photos are hers.

Meanwhile, the Hector was doing his damnedest to keep up with this Blog. Having Curry sets the writing back, Curry-Heute always takes priority. And it was Curry which started the day, well after a walk around Downtown Portland ME, such as it is, and the wait for the 14.00 opening time.

Clive and Maggie were waiting outside India Palace, not unsurprisingly, we would be the first customers of the day. A seat was kept for Dr. Stan in case his Big Breakfast had digested, evidently, it hadn’t.

Competent, Mainstream Curry, as much as one can expect, but then, one never knows what is around the corner. Khazi, seriously, and his father, Mohammed were keen to talk all things Curry related after the meal. A memorable visit.

After Las Vegas NV and Honolulu HI, Marg and Hector are hardly going to notice any warmth in the air, so no mercy for Clive and Maggie as we headed north-west, trying to avoid uphill. A thirty minute walk, mostly downhill as it happened, definitely an Uber back.

Dr. Stan had located himself at the far end of the East Bayside brewery parade. Thereafter, it would be a mere three minute walk between venues, comparable to Seattle’s WA Ballard brewing district.

Today, the classic four breweries, two Biers in each, the model which worked so well on Dr. Stan’s Big Birthday Tour of the West Coast, including, the other Portland, Oregon.

Dr. Stan was in the restroom when we entered Lone Pine Brewing Co., the young lady behind the bar knew who we looking for. He must have been in with the bricks, charming as ever.

Had we ended here, then Oh-J and Tesselation would have been the choices, both 8.0% DIPAs. No point wiping oneself out this early, and the Hector tradition of Cider after Curry would have been choice #1. Alas, no Cider in any of the sixteen taps.

Time to try a Seltzer. I’ll never know how OH-J Seltzer at 5.0% compares with the DIPA of the same name, but I needed something to quaff and refresh. A – Hard Seltzer – with Orange, giving it an edge and a decent Flavour. Mission accomplished, gone in a flash. I had just drunk a 5.0% as if it were lemonade. Time to get serious.

Juice Punch at 6.0%, session strength, was clearly the Bier to follow. Despite the milkshake haze and reportedly Citra, Galaxy and El Dorado hops, this lacked the hop-hit one seeks.

The magic blend was not here, time to move along.

At Belleflower Brewing Co., it was a matter of – Preparez vos Mouchoirs. Nine NEIPAs and two DIPAs to choose from. This was exactly what one dreams of, and so little time. There had to be decent Bier here. Flashlight Tag, their 8.0% Imperial Stout had certainly impressed last night at The King’s Head.

The young staff were friendly, helpful, they got what we were about. As ever, Dr. Stan would go his own way. Maggie may always order what Dr. Stan has in a restaurant, she follows my lead in breweries. Marg stuck to soft drinks.

Finch & Thistle at 6.8% was on the button. The Citra hops oozed gently on to the palate. A creaminess here, mellow, a delight. This was moreish, but on a voyage of discovery, one takes the chance on something else.

DIPA time, Into The Kaleidoscope at 8.0%, another full milkshake haze. Citra and Amarillo hops this time, a slight sweetness, but still the same mellow mouthfeel. Full bodied, how many have I had on this trip that have not lived up to the abv?

Belleflower, a relaxing, welcoming venue, a must visit in Portland ME.

The weakness of our two day per city model in this leg of – The Trip – was already being highlighted today. A third day would have enabled a full afternoon at Belleflower.

As we approached Orange Bike Brewing Co. there was a welcome of a different, and unexpected, type. A trad-Jazz band were in full flow, good, in small dozes (sic).

Orange Bike had a different Bier perspective. Gluten-free was their selling point, an array of NEIPA, not. With only one Bier in our chosen style, our stay here would be shortened.

New England IPA at 6.3% was gold, tending towards – muddy – in comparison to Belleflower’s offerings. Too sharp on the palate, not what the Hector seeks.

The fourth and final brewery of the day – Rising Tide Brewing Co. had twelve taps but only one Hazy IPA.

There was no option, it had to be Puffin Party at 6.8%. Columbus, Sabro, Strata and Centennial were the featured hops, but at this abv, a classic example of too thin a Bier.

There was a dog which kept Marg amused pro tem.

At this point one may wonder why we didn’t make the huge six minute walk back to Belleflower? The 20.00 curfew was rapidly approaching. Being out of town, these breweries are not late night venues.

The Hector had less Bier than anticipated at this point, the zone was not yet achieved. Google Maps to the rescue. Telling Marg that we were heading to Portland Zoo was definitely a wind up. It’s bar, open until midnight!

Maggie had faded, an Uber summoned. She promised to join us later, if she was up for it. A three minute walk, of course, to Portland Zoo, fortunately at the bottom of the hill.

Dive Bar, or Hippy Bar, what a place. A shack with minimal indoor seating, everyone was out back in the Beer Garden. This is where the good people of Portland ME were gathering this evening. Firstly, Bier had to be fetched, at this stage, anything would do.

Hazy Little Thing (Sierra Nevada Brewing Co., Chico, California) at 6.7% was a suitable NEIPA. With Citra, El Dorado, Magnum, Mosaic and Simcoe hops, this was a Bier befitting of being consumed in the proximity of the East Bayside breweries.

On the board also: Portland Zoo Cocktail House Marg, alas, the lady stayed sensible.

We found our spot and soon engaged with the locals. One of these turned out to be the brewer from Brickyard Hollow, visited yesterday. With everyone engaged with everyone else, a good time was had by all.

Another Uber took us back to The Kings Head, our local. Clive fetched Maggie.

Dr. Stan ordered Chowder, Marg and Hector shared Chicken Wings.


Hector finally had his Cider, an amuse bouche before the grand finale.

Slow Down (Artifact Cider Project, Northampton MA) at 6.0% was everything keg Cider ain’t back home. Clear, seriously dry, there might even have been apples in there, this was as good as it gets.

Why I started with a small Flashlight Tag was maybe down to not knowing how long my compatriots were staying out.

The full glass soon followed. I may not have had this mighty Belleflower – Imperial Stout at source, but today, we were there.

Breweries, bars and restaurant visited today:

Lone Pine Brewing Company – 219 Anderson St, Portland, ME 04101

Belleflower Brewing Company – 66 Cove St, Portland, ME 04101

Orange Bike Brewing Co. – 31 Diamond St Suite D, Portland, ME 04101

Rising Tide Brewing Co. – 103 Fox St, Portland, ME 04101

Portland Zoo – 41 Fox St, Portland, ME 04101

The King’s Head – 254 Commercial St, Portland, ME 04101

India Palace – 565 Congress St, Portland, ME 04101

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