Auckland : Days 18 – 22

Day 18 – Sunday, April 7

Kia Ora! – How many of you thought about orange juice, not the band, but the expensive, watery stuff that cinema ushers used to drape around their necks. And it was flat.

Quantas Flight QF3, departing from Sydney to Auckland was on time at 09.10. This necessitated a suitably early rise. Hector had partied a bit yesterday but was in good fettle. The clocks went back in the small hours, an extra hour.

In the aftermath of the recent flooding, and ongoing drivers’ shortage, trains to Kingsford Smith International were not looking reliable. A quickly arranged Über wheeched us to the Airport.

A three hour flight and forwarding clocks by two hours, had us touch down on schedule for 14.10. Three hours, no time at all after the two long legs to Australia. Hector got some more writing done:

Can you ask the pilot to circle for another couple of hours please?

Hector’s first views of New Zealand, Marg was here back in 1996.

Alison, university chum of Marg’s, was waiting to greet. Alison has not appeared in these pages previously, but has in Curry-Heute when Hector cooked a – Korma. A supermarket was visited en route to Greenhithe. Bridges were crossed, the Auckland Harbour waterfront was on the horizon.

Alison’s husband Steve was introduced, and in time the three grown up weans. As we settled in, so the slippers made an appearance. Alison prepared dinner: New Zealand Lamb.

The aromas whilst Alison cooked were amazing. I could smell burning pepper/spices and hear lots of sizzling.

When one arrives in a new land and in a strange setting, one does not whip out the camera to photograph the dinner. One eats, appreciatively. This Lamb was wonderful.

Big chunks, bigger, and regular in shape, had been cooked in Ras El Hanout, Moroccan Spice. Thereafter the pieces were rolled in Dukkah Herb Mix. Dukkah, I had never heard of it, a wonderful blend that will make an appearance in Blighty, one day.

No Bier today, some red wine was the substitute. A lot of people in this country pooh-pooh Australian table wines – said Eric Idle in a Monty Python sketch once upon a time. This wine was from New Zealand, I know, I picked it. Way better than a Coq du Rod Laver.

The calendar. Every year, Hector makes a calendar of Marg and Hector’s trips. On has been posted to Auckland since the inception of this ritual. It was good to see – April – as it will be bypassed back home. Note the attire.

Stories were told, people faded, not the Hector. All day and all evening the Old Firm match was in the back of the mind. A 23.00 kick-off local time. Loosing a goal in the first minute was not a good start. Disaster loomed, a draw was snatched. We wuz robbed, as usual.

Day 19 – Monday, April 8

Everyone was up earlier than Hector, it had ben a late night. Self respect remained in place after securing the draw. Marg was in the pool, as one would predict. How cold was the water? No idea, didn’t even test it.

Alison took us to her favourite eatery for brunch. Willow Cafe have their own buttons on the menu pads to cater for Alison’s dietary restrictions. Hector saw – chowder – and was not passing up the opperchancity. Marg had a salad variant. Yes, I shall probably show every meal eaten out that is, for the duration of this trip. An important part of every day. And since I list every venue, the reader can see where it was had. Bier-Traveller, note the name, that’s the model.

Alison was keen to give us the grand tour.

Long Bay Regional Park incorporated a beach walk, and an introduction to the Pukeko Bird, varied quality of photos.

Paddling, aye right.

Rangitoto Island would be visible throughout the drive. A volcano, not expected to erupt again. However, Hector is in town. History suggests that if it will erupt again, April 29 will be the day.

Brown’s Bay was next. There was a stop-off at The Stoned Cow for drinks. How orange is that Fanta? As a student of some things – orange – Belgian Fanta is my favourite, pale and tastier. Why it varies from country to country puzzles. Have never seen the original Deutsche Fanta, but then, would I drink it? The décor at The Stoned Crow was suitably royalist. The venue is due to rebrand itself, as a republican venue?

SIM Cards, we had been in New Zealand for twenty four hours and were still dependent on Wi-Fi. Alison took us to the Westfield shopping centre, there the chap at One.NZ had two SIMs working in our respective phones in minutes. That should do us.

Alison a Naturopath, took us to her place of practice. Suddenly the Hector felt a prick in his thumb, a microscopic study then followed. There should be enough blood in Hector’s Bier-stream to last the trip.

Alison and Steve were treating Marg and Hector to the full SkyCity experience. You cannot see the tower from the tower!

On arrival in the car park beneath the tower, we took the elevator up to the ground-floor then the escalator back down to the basement. From there, a dedicated elevator took us to the viewing level. On the ground floor, another dedicated elevator took us up to Orbit 360º Dining, a revolving restaurant on Level 52. There was an apron around the windows such that sitting there was not an issue, no acrophobia.

In the dusk then darkness, the ever-changing view of Auckland created as sense of familiarity. I could just about work out which direction was Greenhithe. I couldn’t see any breweries from up here.

A pukka dinner, too posh to take photies. Venison was both Marg and Hector’s choice for the main course. The staff double then treble checked with Alison that they weren’t going to poison here.

Here was a Bier, #1 Bier in New Zealand.

Hazed & Confused (Emerson’s Brewery, Dunedin, New Zealand) a 5.8%, suitably hazy IPA, was – OK, but how could one resists the name? Not quite an NEIPA, certainly more than a IPA. No sweetness, no nasty aftertaste – OK. No hops disclosed. Dunedin lies in the future, I may get the opperchancity to have this, or similar, at source.

Is the kitchen closed? – was raised at one point. No, it has just gone away. Oh, now is a good time to visit the facilities. The seating area rotated around the central hub. A new experience, and I hate to think what our entire night out costs. Thanks, Alison.

Restaurant, eatery and cafe visited today:

Orbit 360º Dining – Level 52 Sky Tower, 72-78 Victoria Street West, Auckland 1010

Willow Cafe – 42 Tawa Drive, Albany, Auckland 0632

The Stoned Cow – 22 Beach Front Lane, Browns Bay, Auckland 0630

Day 20 – Tuesday, April 9

Today was a big day for Hector and Marg in Auckland. We were meeting with former colleagues, not seen for yonks. Originally, we were due to meet both Darryn and Charlie at 19.00, however, Charlie said he was free earlier than this, he could join us for Curry. As they don’t know each other this proved to be a better plan.

Hector had a relaxed morning, Marg and Alison were way more energetic. After two days in New Zealand, Hector was due a more normal day. The irony, none of the places visited today were in the city centre. Mount Roskill for Curry, and Mount Eden for Bier, are south of the city centre.

We set out, with Alison at the wheel once again, for our 14.00 Curry rendezvous at Des Traditions. The Lamb Karahi Platter was wonderful.

It is twenty three years since we last saw Charlie. Had he changed? Dramatically! If the restaurant hadn’t been empty, we may well have done the double take. Hector and Marg have not changed at all.

With the reunion going well, we set Alison free and Charlie drove us the short hop to Mount Eden for Brother’s Brewery. As we got near, he pointed out Galbraith’s Alehouse, a place he knew very well.

With Darryn due here at 19.00, this was going to be a long shift, better take it easy.

Gamma Daydream Fresh Hop Hazy IPA at 6.3% was the starter, a good session abv. NEIPA by definition, this was suitably mellow with the Motueka and Waimea hops coming through. Nothing overwhelming.

Wax On, Wax Off at 6.5%, another NEIPA, but not as tasty. There was an initial astringency here which did not sit well. It did settle, but Gamma Daydream won this contest. No hop list for Wax On, Wax Off was forthcoming, a pity when this cannot be disclosed, and/or the staff don’t know either.

Once Charlie had consumed his legal quota, it was time for him to head. Amazing to meet up again after all this time. I must mention that I did take him to Bayern during his year in Helensburgh.

Drinking Gamma Daydream for another five hours or so wasn’t on. With Churly’s a twenty minute walk away, this would provide a break.

Churly’s Brewpub & Eatery houses Behemoth Brewing, who knows why they need two names. Marg sorted a table in the large, spartan, seating area. There was plenty of choice on the board. Hector would stick to – the style of the moment.

Bract is an experimental NZ hop, so Baby Got Bract at 5.5% had to be tried. This NEIPA was among the haziest ever encountered. At 5.5%, still a bit thin for the abv. The slight pungency was a concern. Another type of hop in there might have improved this Bier. As a single hop Bier, not so wonderful.

I calculated that there was time for a quiche at Galbraith’s Alehouse if I got a move on. Our route to Galbraith’s took us past Brothers, so why did we miss this more direct way earlier?

Galbraith’s Alehouse is quite a magnificent building both inside and out. A traditional bar, the fittings here must go back many decades. This was quite a step up from the typical brewery tap. And Bier is brewed here, Germanic and T.E.A., Hector was till after NEIPA.

Hazy Davey a 5.5% NEIPA was the only Bier – in the style. Gold, hazy muddy, not the best appearance. Dry, bitter tasting, not a Bier I would rush back to drink.

I did establish that this Bier was brewed with US hops, and these change every time Hazy Davey is brewed. So, how is it still the same Bier?

We arrived back at Brothers bang on 19.00. Darryn was sitting in one of the outhouses, despite the passing of thirty two years, recognition was instant. 32 years ago, Darryn had just graduated when he spent his year in Helensburgh, now he was approaching retirement. Contact with the school all this time confirms the importance of his time in Scotland.

Then and now. This was one of the first Helensburgh 10k runs.

There was Bier, Darryn ordered food. Hector continued with Gamma Daydream, Darryn was having something clear and stronger, one sip and the rest of the night changed.

Fear and Loathing in Mt Eden at 7.2%, an AIPA, was yellow, clear, apart from a chill haze, and as dry as… imagine Green Devil (Oakham, Peterborough, England) on steroids.

Maybe I needed a break from Kiwi NEIPA?

After two days of near temperance, this was quite a night, and there was the afternoon before it.

Meeting up with people for just a few hours, very strange, but worth every minute. Meeting Charlie and Darryn separately was definitely the better idea.

There was the small matter of returning to Greenhithe. Unsurprisingly, in a city lacking public transport, taxis are aplenty. Our first New Zealand Über.

Breweries and restaurant visited today:

Brothers Brewery – 5 Akiraho Street, Mount Eden, Auckland 1024

Churly’s Brewpub & Eatery – 1A Charles Street, Mount Eden, Auckland 1024

Galbraith’s Alehouse – 2 Mount Eden Road, Eden Terrace, Auckland 1023

Des Traditions – 54 Stoddard Road, Mount Roskill, Auckland 1041

Day 21 – Wednesday, April 10

Another relaxing morning for Hector, and sleeping through the night is becoming the norm once more after many nights of interrupted sleep. After three days of being driven around Auckland and its environs, the right foot is showing signs of recovery.

Alison cooked me eggs, fried, not poached as originally offered. Wet Eggs, ugh.

This afternoon, a trip to Sea Life, featuring the World’s first curved tunnel through the tank containing the exhibits. There was much celebration of Kelly Tarlton who conceived the curved acrylic shaping. Hopefully no repeat of the AquaDom Hotel (Berlin) catastrophe any time soon.

The live Sea Life exhibits were preceded by an impressive feature on the huts as used by Capt. Scott – of The Antarctic. Rather than fill these pages with multiple photos, a stand alone link has been created for those who wish to marvel at them.

The Penguins were behind glass which kept fogging up, this made photography difficult. The fish wouldn’t stay put either. At least there are some fun photos of the visitors.

From Sea Life we could see across the bay to Downtown Auckland. Still haven’t set foot in it.

Alison then drove us to Mission Bay. Ritual photos completed,we visited the Kapiti Cafe for an ice-cream. There was a hockey connection with the chap who ran it. Introductions.

Somewhat frustratingly, Hector was outside Good George Brewing Crafthouse and had no chance of investigating. On the adjacent corner was De Fontein, a Belgian Beer Cafe. It was not to be.

Bier of sorts was promised for this evening.

Hector was dropped back at Greenhithe, Marg accompanied Alison on a visit to her daughter. After weeks of eating out, Sunday night excepted, home-cooking was something we now craved. Marg offered my services, Spag Bol was to be tonight’s meal, Hector le Chef.

Cooking on a ceramic hob, a la Carnoustie, is damnable. I managed not to burn the mince. Alison has a spectacular Herb drawer, everything went in, except the wonderful Dukkah.

People appeared out of the woodwork for dinner. There was more than enough Bolognaise, but limited – gluten-free spaghetti.

Dinner had to be over by 19.00, there was Big Night ahead.

When we put out our feelers to meet up with Kiwis who had worked with us in bygone days, we did not expect to discover that Louise, who taught English with us for some years, was in New Zealand. Not only was she an Auckland resident, she lives in Greenhithe.

The Malt at 19.30, was the rendezvous. I was warned not to expect Bier of any quality. Alison drove the short distance t’pub, it were stowed, peeps mostly having dinner.

The Bier choice was way better than I was led to beleive and included a – Hazy:

Rat Rod (Panhead Custom Ales, Upper Hutt, New Zealand) a 6.5% NEIPA turned out to be pretty decent. Amarillo, Ekuanot Mosaic and Simcoe hops were present. This was a candidate for Best Bier had in NZ to date. Not that there have been many.

Louise arrived a few minutes after 19.30, twenty eight years since we last met, some people do not change. It was as if another – Fridge Night – had just resumed.

Alison had to listen to conversations about people she had never met. Again, this reinforced how right it was last night with Charlie and Darryn to meet separately. Amazing how the time flies, The Malt was empty by 21.00, signs of closing despite the advertised opening times. Do any New Zealanders stay up after 22.00?

Bar and cafe visited today:

The Malt – 10 Greenhithe Road, Greenhithe, Auckland 0632

Kapiti at Mission Bay – 61 Tamaki Drive, Mission Bay, Auckland 1071

Day 22 – Thursday, April 11

Today we moved south to Pukekohe in the south of Auckland. Simon was in Helensburgh 1995-96, in the era of Louise. In Helensburgh, Simon was accompanied on occasion by Andrea, his soon to be wife. On hearing that we were coming to Auckland, Simon insisted we come and spend the night at Pukekohe. He offered to drive up to Greenhithe to collect us this afternoon, and more importantly, drop us at Auckland Airport tomorrow afternoon. Eventually it was agreed that Alison would drive us south to Pukekohe.

There was a brunch stop afore, back to the Willow Cafe. Having enjoyed Alison’s fried eggs on toast so much yesterday, I risked a repetition. Poached but dry, not the end of the World.

We were to meet Simon at his place of employment, Pukekohe Hill School. A mere five minutes in a school and Hector found himself in the Headmaster’s study. Those who recognise the memorabilia on display will recognise the significance Unbelievably, Simon told us of Kevin, the son of another long term colleague, who is also in Pukekohe as the coach of the local football club. Poor Kevin was in an A’ Level class of two with Lindsey, the most talented pupil the Hector ever taught. We both learned a lot that year.

Alison stayed for the grand tour, she doesn’t miss teaching either. The play areas outside were extensive. Nine years retired, almost, and risk assessment kicked in. The number of sharp corners and edges. What me worry?

Farewell to Alison, for a fortnight, Simon took us to his home, Andrea arrived later. Introductions to the grown up offspring.

En route, Simon pointed out the racecourse, soon not to be. The motor racing section has already been abandoned. Simon showed us his vintage VW Beetle, his pride and joy, also a restored caravan. He was busy through Lockdown.

Simon was on the main cooking duty, Andrea had to take #1-born to the Airport a flight to Wellington. So tomorrow.

Roast New Zealand Lamb, cooked with inserted Garlic and Thyme as the Hector was taught also. Again, minimal photography, one cannot, truly. Broccoli and potatoes featured, along with onions, major crops in this part of New Zealand. It ain’t all sheep then, come to think of it, the dinner plate is the only place I have seen New Zealand Lamb so far. There’s time.

Simon had a box of Hazy Bier chilled for Hector’s enjoyment, he wasn’t expecting the appraisal. How did he know? And so notes were taken.

All were from Behemoth Brewing Company (St. Eden, Auckland, New Zealand) visited two days back – Churly’s. I worked my way up the abv.

Adulting, a 4.5% Session Hazy IPA, had a partial haze but gave off astringency. Riwaka, Mosaic and Idaho 7 were present. Not a bad start.

Brain Smiles at 5.4% , a Hazy Pale Ale, dark gold, this time with a full haze. A smoother mouthfeel, but lacking the hoped for tropical juiciness. With Mosaic and Citra, one could have hoped for more here. And yes, I made a new friend.

Something Hazy at 5.9%, a Hazy IPA with the full on milkshake haze, but a darker gold. This time: Citra, Mosaic, El Dorado and Galaxy hops were in the mix. Three CANs, there was nothing markedly different between either. Maybe the first was closer to yesterday’s Baby got Bract.

Early to bed, people have work in the morning. This appears to be the New Zealand way.

05.00 rising? They’ve got to be kidding.

Cafe visited today:

Willow Cafe – 42 Tawa Drive, Albany, Auckland 0632

Day 23 – Friday, April 12 Auckland – Wellington

Simon and Andrea went off to work, early. Theirs was a half day before the start of the holidays. What’s a holiday? We were left with Simon’s car. There was a suggestion that we drive to the west coast before meeting up with Simon who would take us to the airport for our 15.00 flight.