The first trip to Antwerpen, there shall certainly be more
It is over an hour from Brugge, via Gent to Antwerpen. On arriving at the station one knew that this would be a city of taste. The station building is out of this world. The original sandstone construction has been cleaned up and the ornate décor that was probably covered in soot from bygone days now revealed in all its splendour. The station has trains leaving on three levels. I cannot understand how Antwerp can have a Metro system, the water table cannot be far below the ground’s surface.
The Tourist Information Office on the station concourse supplied a map. Google Maps had led me to believe the Central Station lay further south. We were not too far from the old town, about a ten minute walk at our athletic pace. The Cathedral was certainly the focal point. We walked down the main broad shopping street in the new town and could see the architecture improve by the minute, especially after we had passed a modern skyscraper-like monstrosity of the trip.
The first Bier port of call was to be the Kathedraalcafe Elfde gebod, the Eleventh Apostle (Torbrug 10, 2000 Antwerpen). The place took some finding despite being right beside the west wall of the Cathedral. The Cathedral icon on the map blocked the streets pattern around the very building the map was locating. Yes, I think we found the Cathedral easily, the streets around made little sense. With this experience there should be no problem in the summer trip.
Don’t Blink
The understatement of the year would be to mention that there are statues in this Brasserie. There are hundreds. I do not think I have had a Bier in a church before, it felt as if I was about to. The main business was to order lunch. An expensive, but excellent Spaghetti Bolognaise was accompanied by a 375ml bottle of Morte Subite Geuze( €3.60). This was decidedly tame after the Cantillon and Hanssens of the previous day.
The Brasserie is an absolute hoot. The people I would love to bring here and photograph. It would be an opportunity to be photographed with some famous icons. All of the celebrities are here. Or that would be the conclusion of anyone looking at the photos afterwards. One wonders of the icons are leftovers from buildings of religion which have gone bust or if there are more mysterious things at work here. 
The place certainly brought a smile to all those who arrived after us. The range of Biers is impressive, draught too. It was also at this point when Hector realised that the prices were approximately half of those in Brugge.
If these are the prices outside of the great tourist trap in the north, then Gent must be affordable too. It was at this moment I sent out my text to the Chaps: ‘Thought for the day…’ No way should we base ourselves in Brugge this summer. Gent is Geographically better located too.
Marg and I wandered towards the River Scheldt and around the castle. The castle is little more than a thoroughfare, Neuschwanstein it is not. We found ourselves back in the Kornmaarkt and then found some ‘shopping streets’.
Brasserie #2 was looming
De Groote Witte Arend, The White Eagle (Reynderstraat 18, 2000 Antwerpen) was off the street at the far side of a courtyard. Presumably in summer this will be filled will tables and smokers. It is so unhealthy outdoors these days. The was a church which Marg went to investigate but was closed.
The bar was at the door on entry with the main room to the right. It was bright and airy, oh what a change it is to be in Belgium and breath. The waiter instantly stated winding up Marg. No, he didn’t mind if Marg had milk in her Earl Grey tea. Apparently he did because the milk never came.
I ordered the House Bier but was then told ‘it wiz aff’. A substitute draught Bier was offered. At 9% I was not caring, bring it on.
Troubadour Magna (€3.40) is a Blond. One does not throw these Biers down one’s throat and so Marg was able to order another drink. She had spotted the ladies drinking what looked like a yellow milkshake. It was egg yolk with Bier, allegedly. Marg had it, her first ‘Bier’.
I don’t believe it…
In Germany
the best Bier houses do not sell the best coffee. In Belgium Marg is able to find content in every venue chosen. The fact that they are from the Good Bier Guide to Belgium is not coincidental. We took a circuit
ous walk south to give time between ‘coffees’ and to see more of the town. I like Antwerp, a fine atmosphere.
Kulminator is one of the best pubs on the planet, so an American guy announced from the far end of the bar. The bar area is adorned with a variety of accoutrements which make seeing over it challenging. There was an old Bert, Einstein’s brother, and an ancient Doris. We were destined to become friends, especially when I stood up for my second Bier and asked Doris to choose. She decided that after L’achouffe N’Ice (€3.70) I should sample their other draught Bier, another schwarzbier. (€3.80). Both measures were around the 300ml mark.
The Bier menu had Biers on the list that were scored out. The place tries to supply vintage Bier, but you pay through the nose for say a bottle of Cantillon 98. (I think I have one in my kitchen.) As they are drunk so they are scored off. Real Bier ticking?
I told Bert and Doris that I would be back in the summer. They said they would be closed in July, what is this? Does Belgium become invaded during the Scottish school holidays by undesirables? We worked out that they would be open on Monday, July 25. The Chaps will love it.
On our way back to the Kornmaarkt to investigate a Curry House, we found one open. The Curry-Heute entry for Antwerp is reported.
We had time to marvel at the station building once more before speeding back to Brugge.