The perfect end to a Greek vacation…
Prior to the reported and impressive Curry-Heute at the Naveena Path, Hector and Marg had done the tourist thing. This did involve the most expensive of coffees, by volume, at the Hotel Maritim on Friedrichstrasse. Hector’s reward for his patience was the lack of protest at suggesting we stop off at the Maximillian Brauhaus further down the same street towards Checkpoint Charlie. This is a Bayerische style outlet, or Paulaner Haus to be more precise.
Paulaner Helles und Dunkels
A half litre of Paulaner Helles (VF) was a welcome sight. After two weeks of drinking cold, yellow, fizzy Greek offerings, it was wonderful to actually taste a Bier. Paulaner is of course cold, yellow and perhaps not so fizzy. Hector was home.
Marg was halfway though her Apfelschorle when the Dunkels was mooted. Everyone else appeared to be drinking the Dunkels, so not wishing to be left out, one was ordered up.
To drink a dark Bier after a light one is always refreshingly different. This too disappeared in very quick time. One would think I hadn’t seen Bier for weeks, well in reality, I hadn’t.
Berlin’s finest Hausbräuerei
Eschenbräu (Triftstraße 67, 13353 Berlin-Wedding) is not the sort of venue which relies on passing trade. Wedding is a few stops north of the centre the area is not that attractive. It is improving by the year, though whether one would feel totally safe walking around here on one’s own is another matter. The Brauhaus is located in the basement of a fairly modern block of flats. In the summer months, most people sit outside in what effect is the back court area of the flats. The ambience is superb as the sun sets and fades to twilight. The subliminal lighting in the trees then leaves one forgetting that the neighbours could be watching.
The Bier at Eschenbräu has improved markedly in recent visits. Last year we were over for the Berlin Biermeile and ended each night back here drinking the truly superb Weizen Bock. They claimed, wrongly, that it is the only Weizen Bock brewed in Germany. We listed a few and put the Brewer right. Yes, we met the Braumeister! Could this be on again?
The normal Weisse was available, this month’s Spezial was a Rote Bier. As Hector established the situation with the Doris serving from the small hut in the garden, two Chaps spotted my Czech polo shirt and called me – … a Bier Guru. Nice to be recognised. A third Chap asked me from which house it was from, he had never seen it. This was the key moment of the evening.
Weizen Hell
The Weisse Bier poured like milk. The yeast hung in the glass and settled more slowly than I have ever witnessed. I have seen globules of yeast sink rapidly to the base of the glass, this was a new experience. Now Hector tends to restrict his Weissbier intake these days. The party of the late 1990’s is well and truly over. This went down so easily. It was perfect. The kick of the Bock was obviously not there, but one knew there would be more.
I came for one, Gunter came for two, we had three
The Chap who had spoken to me last joined the adjacent table. It was clear he was ready to chat. This would please Marg no end. Gunter, no ‘h’, is a teacher of English. He is an avid reader of fiction and only reads in the English language. He particularly enjoys Scotland’s own Ian Rankine. We inevitably discussed the consumption of Bier. ‘How did you find this place?’ I had to admit that this was in fact my fifth visit to Eschenbräu and that I had been taken the first time. That we have stayed in Wedding in recent visits has not been totally coincidental.
Gunter has not been to all of the Bamberg houses, shame. The Bier Houses of Koln and Dusseldorf were rhymed off. There was a consensus that apart from our present location, the Biers of Berlin are not all that great.
Hector had spotted the Brewer arrive on his bike whilst Marg took the ritual photograph at the entrance. He appeared suddenly and whispered in Gunter’s ear. Gunter was straight on the phone…
Yir tea’s ready
I understood enough of the conversation to know that the lady on the other end of the phone was wondering why her Beau was not home for his tea. Indeed, Gunter may have been sent out for the ingredients. The ground was set, the third Bier was approved.
New décor
Prior to our departure I checked out the facilities. One still feels that one is in the basement of a flat and a local could emerge from any door at any time. The main room has been expanded appreciably. There is also a new laminate floor. No longer does the house feel like a bunker. Business must be booming, and no wonder with the quality of the Bier served.
Marg thoroughly enjoyed her third visit to Eschenbräu
Off to Hackerschermarkt
We went looking for the reported Andechs Haus. With Hector’s technology now subsiding the declining Greek economy, he was unable to establish the locus. The rain was back. Time to get indoors. Lemke Hausbraueri was the only place which appeared to have any Bier of distinction.
Zwickel Bier
Not the wonderful Bier served at Konigsbacher, Koblenz. This was another example of micro breweries still being unable to make a Bier that doesn’t taste home-made.
After five visits in as many years, Hector should know better.