The 11.06 is the fastest RE which Die Bahn run between München and Nürnberg. We had a very useful 58 minute connection time before proceeding in a disorderly manner to Bamberg. The Andechs House in Nürnberg does sell Spezial Hell, there was just time for a swift half.
‘Do you have Spezial Hell?’
Steve and Juliet were not with us tempoarily, they were off doing other things. At 14.30 we arrived in Bamberg, rain. The walk to Fässla was at a very brisk pace. Herr Kalb greeted us all with a firm handshake and issued the keys for the three rooms. Steve and Juliet had stayed longer at Bamberg Bahnhof, doing other things.
We assembled downstairs in the main room of the Bierhalle, Yvonne ordered Pils, Pils!? Steve and Craig had the Lagerbier, Howard and Hector had the Svergla (Fl). Where was Juliet?
Eventually ?Stan! joined us, he had been in the sticks exploring a new venue which he may take us to.
It is a long walk in the rain from Fässla to Spezial, even though they are directly across the street from each other. At Spezial, the Jubilaum Festbier was available. Lighter than Schlenkerla but still distinctively smoky. This was within Yvonne’s taste range.
Three citizens of the USA sat at the adjacent table. The largest of the three Chaps looked familiar. I asked Howard if he recognised him. Howard asked ?Stan!, ‘that’s Fred’. Hector attracted the Chap’s attention with the immortal line: “Did you write a book?” “Sort of.” was the reply.
This was Fred Waltman, author of the Franconia Bier Guide. How had I recognised him? Perhaps being in Bamberg so regularly, but not as often as Fred who gets across to Europe a few times each year. His group were staying at Spezial, I have never managed to get a room here.
The conversation opened up to include us all, another Festbier was called for.
It is a twenty minute walk to Keesmann from the middle of town, in the continuous rain it was horrible. ?Stan! and Hector arrived first, but by different routes. There appeared to be no room at the inn. I asked the Head Doris if there would be space for seven of us, she made an attempt to clear some space but the locals were not for budging. Craig, Yvonne and Howard entered to find ?Stan! and Hector still standing in the middle of the room, they were soaked through.
Doris finally got two Chaps finishing their coffee to depart and we had a table, albeit reserved in an hour. This was soon sorted and we squeezed in. Howard’s jacket was a sieve, his shirt was soaked. Yvonne’s pullover was heavy and wet. Craig was dry and so insisted in giving Yvonne his Hector’s Hollandisch Hootenanny polo shirt. Craig spent the rest of the evening with his jacket covering his now naked torso, ooh er missus.
We gave our food order and were then relocated to the Stammtisch where there was even more space. Steve and Juliet had finally caught up wit us. So what about the Bock?
Two years ago Hector declared that this was the best Bier on the planet. Last year the Keesmann Bock was a major disappointment, far too sweet. Tonight it was still too sweet but had a drier aftertaste. Good, but not stunning. The body was wholesome, this Bier needs to be treated with respect.
Steve received phonecall and he and Juliet departed to Bamberg Bahnhof, their day was all about DB. Howard disappeared, never to be heard of again, Craig and Yvonne set off in the rain and got lost. They eventually hailed a passing taxi and ten minutes later were back at the brewery with the wee man rolling the barrel. They could not remember where they lived.
?Stan! and Hector arranged a taxi for 21.45 and headed to Schlenkerla. The Urbock is likely to be the best Bock we taste this week. ‘Kippers in a glass’ is how I normally describe the king of smoked Bier, this is something very special.
?Stan! and Hector sat for an hour with their Bier, a couple of locals acknowledged our presence and that that we had ordered the Urbock. It is most evident that in these smaller brewery houses, the locals like you to enjoy their Bier.
The walk back to Fässla was across the river and the canal during which Marg phoned. I bade farewell to ?Stan! who typically was staying elsewhere. There were a few people sitting in the main room but no Friends of Hector. I went back out to the adjacent Marmaris and had a Kebab.
The Breweries and Bier Houses visited today:
Kloster Andechs – Das Wirtshaus – Königstraße 55, 90402, Nürnberg.
Fässla – Obere Königstraße 21, 96052, Bamberg
Spezial – Obere Königstraße 10, 96052, Bamberg.
Keesmann – Wunderburg 5, 96050, Bamberg.
Schlenkerla – Dominikanerstraße 6, 96049, Bamberg