The Curry-Heute at Restaurant Bombay was a perfect start to the day. Arriving bang on the rendezvous time of 13.00 at the Alter Markt, Steve and Juliet were already enjoying their first Glühwein of the day at the stall opposite the original Gaffel Haus. Clive appeared but could only hear us. Maggie had told him to ‘stand there’, he did. Food was their priority, had they not heard of Curry?
Jonathan joined us eventually; there is another Glühwein stall opposite another Gaffel Haus…
Steve and Juliet disappeared; they had to secure their hotel room, the rest decanted to the latter mentioned stall, more Glühwein. Then there was the other stall at the Ice Rink, fortunately the only place with ice in Köln today. Guess what, there was even more Glühwein! Maggie was becoming concerned about the quantity – ‘Pity there is no Glühbier.’ As if.
Plus ca Change
It was still daylight, this felt strange. The temperature was more than bearable. Nothing seemed quite right. Could it have been the Glühwein? Jonathan had previously discovered in the new edition of Insomnia (the Köln Guide) the existence of the Sünner Keller and paid a quick visit last evening. The short trip across the Rhein would give us a much needed break.
The Tram came before we could buy a group ticket. The Tram was wedged, no chance of buying a ticket. By the time we passed Messe/Deutz the carriage had emptied and Hector made his way to the machine to make the journey legal. The buttons were pressed and the individual Euro coins inserted, …. one …. at …. a …. time…. By the time we reached the correct Kalk U Bahn stop I still had the Cents to put in. The doors opened, the rest alighted. The ticket began to print. The doors began to close. With the athleticism born out of desperation, Hector was through the door and on to the platform ticket in hand!
The Sünner Keller was a few metres away, the Brauhaus was visible, this would be our first Sünner Kölsch at Source (Walfisch being the usual outlet). We will definitely return here in warmer months. We have lost an afternoon place to sit and relax outdoors since the demise of the Dom Keller a few years back. We went downstairs to the Keller (very confusing) which was set up for a private function.
Last evening Jonathan had decided to not have a Bier in the stowed Pit which was the only available place due to another private function. Doris did not want to give us a Bier at a table until I pointed out that we were here for an hour and would be away long before the 18.00 deadline.
We were given a seat at table for ten. The Knoblauch Family, the famous Köln family who are ridiculously healthy but generally odorous, would be the recipient of this table on our departure.
At Sünner am Walfsch the Kölsch is always sold Direkt, no pumps. At the Brewery Tap the draught Bier is pumped, why? On a positive note, there was information on the Deckel about the existence of Sünner Hefeweizen. We will ask next time.
It was agreed that this is a new venue for the future, but not if it is always going to be booked out. The Hector may have to make a booking.
The third Kölsch was to be the last, we paid the Doris, and she was speaking English to us now, happy that we would not be blocking the table. A new Doris had just started her shift and came over and offered us more Bier. Now, what if…
Back to the Glühwein
The wonders of modern day communication devices are that we were able to set a new rendezvous with Steve and Juliet at the Mediaeval Markt. This has been our favourite, and traditionally is the only market one pays an entrance fee to. A return trip on the U Bahn to Heumarkt and the short walk up the Rhein took us towards the Chocolate Factory where the Mediaeval Markt is sited. The place is increasing in popularity we thought as we approached; the tents had now spilled off the island. We met Steve and Juliet who looked despondent – ‘there is no Mediaeval Markt’.
There was a crowd.
(First sentence, top of page two, ‘The Sirens of Titan’, Kurt Vonnegut)
Something Happened (His pal)
With all these people here something was happening. We passed the outer tented stalls and crossed over to the island. The place has gone upmarket, some very pukkah stalls. In the short distance ahead was a stall where we usually congregate. Glühwein was on offer, all was well.
Alarm!
Glühbier was on sale. Hot Liefmans Kriek was being served, we had to have it. We did. One was enough. Whilst consuming this we watched as people bought the German equivalent of a Flaming Mo. We had to try this: a hot Rum Punch, a Sugar Lump supported by a cradle above, an Elixir poured over the Sugar and then set on fire. Juliet set herself on fire; well her cup went up in flames. This Punch was aptly named, we drank one, we left whilst able. We shall be back.
The Reissdorf Haus in Köln Sud
Apart from Juliet who was experiencing her first visit to Köln this has become a firm favourite destination. We have abandoned our former home in Klein Giechenmarkt in favour of this newer totally non-smoking establishment. Jonathan found a bus, Hector navigated with geometric precision and a map. Our table awaited, Jonathan was there first.
Some were hungry, Hector was not sure. A late afternoon Frikadelle had filled a gap. The rest ordered food, I still considered the possibility of crossing the street to the Indien Basmati Curry House, two Curry houses in one day is not unknown. I restrained myself and decided that 0.2l glasses of Kölsch would suffice.
We had a lovely Doris who knows how the system works and whose tray always had a Kölsch for Jonathan and I. As the night progressed we looked at the marks on our Deckel. Doris brought over the Bier mat from the adjacent table, they had more marks. ‘But there’s ten of them.’ I protested, ‘There’s only two of you.’ was her reply.
A Wed Wose
I cannot buy Marg flowers, she would be suspicious, and she wasn’t here. Clive cannot buy Maggie flowers, she has not just given birth. I bought Maggie a Wed Wose. She and Juliet appeared to be more amused by the large Pepper Pot.
And there’s more
Trams were taken back towards the Hauptbahnhof, Jonathon bade farewell after a couple of stops at Barbarossa Platz and made the remaining five legal travellers. The ladies were put to bed, the real men took table at Gaffel am Dom. I watched four chaps being refused service, far too much for one day apparently. Some have to learn how to pace themselves.
Wilma, Wilma!
The night porter at Hotel Colonia was nowhere to be seen. I rang the bell, nothing. I banged the door, nothing. I did both repeatedly and simultaneously for ten minutes. Eventually.
Brewery Taps visited today:
Sunner Keller – Kalker Strasse 260-262, 51103, Köln –Kalk
Zum Alten Brauhaus (Reissdorf) – Severinstraße 51, 50678, Köln
Gaffel am Dom – Bahnhofsvorplatz 1, 50667, Köln
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