For the first time in nine years Hector and Marg will bring in the New Year in the UK, and England for the first time. Ulverston is not in Deutschland just in case we have yet to convince some people who did ask. Located on the south coast of Cumbria it is technically not in The Lake District. Why Ulverston? It has more pubs per square metre than any market town Hector has ever visited, it has charm and three Curry Houses, so why not?
Maggie and Clive (aka Olive) were heading north from Crawley by train and were scheduled to arrive at 14.14. Three cars left Glasgow and headed down the M74/M6/A590 to Ulverston. The driving conditions were awful.
With Craig and Yvonne bopping away to Joy Division in the rear of the Hector-Mobile we were first car to arrive in Ulverston and checked in at the Stan Laurel. Jonathan would occupy the remaining room once he dropped off ?Stan!, Robin and Mags at St Marys Mount. Howard and Tracey would chug along later.
The rain was still pouring down, the Stan Laurel was closed and so the four of us headed out to meet Clive and Maggie. I realised that we would not see the town centre in daylight for another forty eight hours.
The Piel Castle Inn was the rendezvous point and one of the four establishments in Ulverston previously visited by Hector. The interior is magnificent with the tall baronic hall clad in weapons that would befit any Saturday night out in the east end of Glasgow. How clichéd is that? There was nowhere to hang our coats, an oversight that Clive was to comment upon more than once.
The ten of us took over the large corner tables and the weekend was now underway, except the choice of Ale was not that wonderful. Robinson’s (Stockport, Cheshire) Dizzy Blonde at 3.8% was a safe start to a long weekend. It would be all about pacing oneself and not peeking too soon.
A move was inevitable, passing two pubs to check Ales on the way, the majority on offer were Robinsons who do not cater for dry, hoppy, pale and 5%. The Mill was the location where Hector knew there would be something for everyone. It was also a possible New Year venue if my plans did not go well. They did have coat hooks.
With nothing at the correct abv, Craig and Yvonne went straight for the draught Erdinger, the rest of us, save Marg, tried the local Ales. The Lancaster (Lancaster, Lancashire) Blonde at 4.1% was a step in the right direction but still lacked the wow factor that say Fyne Ales’ Jarl is capable of at a more modest 3.8%.
Marg ordered a Mediterranean style platter of food instead. A wet Tracey and a Howard resplendent in a new green waterproof finally caught up with us. The Friends of Hector were re-united.
A sit down meal was waved, a Chippy on the hoof to the next port of call was consumed in the pouring rain.
The Swan Inn came recommended. Russell, the cellar man at the Bon Accord had asked if I had visited the Swan when Marg and I were down in Ulverston in April. Mein Host at the Stan Laurel had previously suggested that this venue would most likely satisfy our needs. I had phoned last week to verify that they would be open, not a ticketed event etc. Dave the charge hand took me on; we were talking the same language.
At the door Marg and I were recognised as non-local by Graham who turned out to be something of a local celebrity. Having spotted Oakham’s Scarlet Macaw at 4.4% (Peterborough, Cambridgeshire) I knew this would not let us down. Oakham make superb Ale. Graham introduced me to Dave, Mein Host, we were cooking on gas.
The rest of the company drifted in, still soaking wet. There were no coat hooks. Marg had kept her seat in front of the coal fire and was entertaining a local couple who had a dog. We took over the far side wall of the large room and settled in for the rest of the evening. On my next visit to the bar I spotted a new offering.
The Hawkshead Cumbrian Five Hop (Kendal, Cumbria) at 5% has been experienced once by Hector in Glasgow. The Chaps summoned Hector one summer afternoon; the entire contents of the barrel were sitting in pint glasses on the table in front of the assembled crew. It was that impressive. I was permitted a taste, this is what we are looking for. This was the Ale now on offer.
Dave presented two half pint glasses he had extracted from the forthcoming barrels. One Ale stood out – the Hawkshead NZPA at 6% was unbelievable. New Zealand Hops are popping up with increasingly regularity these days. This had everything, dry, citrus, body, a perfect ale. It was promised for 21.00 on Hogmanay. I passed the glass around and reminded all that the Hector was the first person in the company to taste this wonderful Bier. We drank the Five Hops with enthusiasm but in the back of our minds…
The Pubs visited today:
The Stan Laurel – 31 The Ellers, Ulverston, Cumbria LA12 0AB
The Piel Castle Inn – 37 Market Street Ulverston, Cumbria LA12 7LR
The Mill at Ulverston – Mill St Ulverston, Cumbria LA12 7EB
The Swan Inn – Swan St., Ulverston, Cumbria, LA12 7JX