An afternoon in Basel – and The Third Evening in Freiburg

Basel  –  Much Travel, No Bier

The Chap at the DB ticket desk congratulated me on my communication skills (I bet his English was better than my Deutsch) and no doubt knowledge of how the Deutsche Bahn ticketing system works. In no way should one buy two return tickets to Basel from Freiburg im Breisgau, there is a Landeskarte, chances are the Badem-Wurtemeberg Ticket would be valid across the Rhein to Basel SBB. It was, total savings @€40. This would pay for tonight’s Curry. Having changed at Basel Bad to an S Bahn, I kept my eyes open for the Pillar in the middle of the river marking the borders of the three nations.  Today I did not see it.  In 1980 I did, so it must be from the French station that one crosses at this marker. Grun 80 was in full flight when I last set foot in Switzerland, or Schweiz as it is easier to write. Such a small country does not deserve too many syllables. Grun 80 was some sort Environmental or even Garden show, I was underwhelmed. I do remember taking sandwiches from Freiburg so as to avoid the Swiss rip-off prices. Today I was determined not to buy Francs and be left with the excess. A reminder of just how wonderful the Euro is. I wish we had joined at £1 = €1.75 like I said at the time, but Economists obviously know more than the Hector.

I have often speculated what it must be like for a tourist to arrive in Glasgow at 08.00 on a Sunday morning. This is how Basel felt today, it is Pessach. Following the clearly marked signs for pedestrians to the Munster and Market areas, we found the more interesting parts of the city with ease.

The first Croque Monsieur of this Trip was consumed in a Café at Rathausplatz. Marg had Asparagus Soup, always a winner. We paid with plastic and used the facilities, 2-0 to us. The Rathaus was visited and some Chap who has a statue with no obvious name stood proudly looking over us. Snap away. From the Munster (partly shrouded in scaffolding, of course) we spotted a Ferry crossing the Rhein. It was heading towards us on the south bank so down we went and timed it to perfection. Deutschland was on the other side, so was a very conveniently located Hausbrauerei.

We wandered the North Bank and then narrowed our search for the home of Euli Bier. Two adjacent premises were listed, both were closed. The main outlet did not open for another two hours.

Suddenly it felt like a Sunday morning in Edinburgh, you’ll have had your Bier! Being no more than a five minute walk from Basel Bad Bf and fifty minutes to the next train, we decided to retrace our steps to the Swiss Station. Like Venezia where all the signs point towards the major sights, the Station is not regarded as being one. Road signs took us on to the Ring Road. We went round in circles, there’s a surprise, and missed the train by two minutes. Being a holiday, it was a fifty eight minute wait to get back across. The facilities were used once more, I have flown for less than this, 2-2! Marg pressed buttons to buy a Coffee at a kiosk, half a cup of Milk and a dribble of Coffee for €3.50?, we walked away. 3-2. So much for Basel.

Minimal Travel, Some Bier

The Friday of Pessach can be a very quiet night in some parts of Deutschland. The strategy was to have Curry this evening. Changing Trams with wonderful efficiency we were almost taken to the door of Panjab. The place was stowed so we booked a table for later and retreated back to the main street and visited Der Kaiser. This building had the layout of an old traditional brewery in a compact building as say Frischheisen in Kelheim. With two rooms, the larger to the right, we went left and sat in view of the Bar.

The Hefe Weizen of Ganter had to be tried. The Waiter repeated Weissburgunder. Now how many syllables is that? Hector wants Bier, not Wine. Marg ordered an Apfelsaft and was still offered Apfelschorle. Pay attention, Dear Chap. The Weizen tasted a bit thin, had a slight acid flavour with a reasonable Banana hit. It was simply not a distinctive as the Urtrunk. We went back to Panjab for a Curry.

Being expert on the Tram network by now, we then jumped on a Tram back up to the Centre and walked the final metres to the Munsterplatz and the Ganter Ausshchank.

Two staff were on from last evening and we gave mutual nods of recognition. The Doris came over and served us as if we were regulars. The Urtrunk was again impressive. Very near closing time Doris asked if I wished another Bier, as if…. There were only two customers left apart from us, it would have been ill mannered to order another and be last out by half an hour. The Hector would never do that. And so back to Martin’s for a final Bier in Freiburg. Last night’s waiter intercepted us with the order: ‘A Baileys and a Dunkels!’. He was corrected and for the final time, maybe ever, I asked for a Pils in Germany. Due to the minimal intake today, the Pils once again impressed as it had done on the first evening.

The Olives had to be re-sampled too, I still do not know what the Sauce was, but it is highly commendable. The Bier Saga of Freiburg im Breisgau now ends. Tomorrow it is Strasbourg, France, the home of the Kronenbourg Brewery, well, Man was born to suffer…

Breweries and Bar visited today:

Der Kaiser –  Günterstalstraße 38,  79100, Freiburg im Breisgau

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