It takes two trains to reach Strasbourg from Freiburg im Breisgau. The first was a double-decker RE to Offenburg, fine. The second was a local unit across the Rhine which was wedged. At least we had a seat for the half hour journey, those arriving at the last minute were caught out. Fancy people going for a Day Trip on the Sunday of Pessach?
The Strasbourg Gare is most unwelcoming, the twin brown canopies have seen better days. The exterior of the station is a big glass bubble which has been built to cover the original building thus extending the entrance vestibule. Like Perth, but done properly.
The Ibis was across the Place de la Gare, we were checked in instantly even though I thought we were too early, success. This was not a custom built Ibis but a conversion of an original turn of the last century building.
Le Petit France is the name given to the Island on which the Mediaeval part of Strasbourg stands.
A complex of Canals and the River Ill gives the outline a distinctive pattern which in theory should aid navigation. In the heart of this lies the Cathedral which the Dutch band, Focus famously (?) paid homage to on their album Hamburger Concerto. So why La Cathedrale du Strasbourg?
The Grenadier was the first venue that looked appealing as we may our progress along the Grand Rue towards the heart of the city. It is Sunday lunchtime, a certain football match is under-way back in Glasgow in which the Undesirables will win the Tainted League. Mein Host places a bottle of Eau Gazeuse before the Hector, you couldn’t make it up…
The Lasagne improved my spirits and we made our way onward to the magnet that is the centre of the Island.
The Cathedral is truly impressive, better than Paris I would say. There is a restaurant on the corner of the Square which looks like the tail end of an old Spanish Galleon, well that is how it looked to my eyes. This fascinated me more than the stone-masonry in many ways. On this and subsequent walks through the Square I tried to get a photo with decent illumination. Conditions remained cool and overcast , not much luck then.
Marg was in her element, Souvenir Shops, Biscuit and Chocolate shops, Fish in the Canals, time for a Coffee. La Stub met with our mutual approval and Hector’s first French Bier for some years was on its way. The Fischer/Pecheur Tradition was served in a 0.25l glass, a size I reckoned I would have to become used to. It was Blond, cold, yellow and fizzy. There was no taste to speak of, but it was not Kronenbourg, and that felt important.
We were on our way again and found ourselves at the north end of the Island. Heading back revealed a wonderful discovery, La Village de la Biere. This had a huge selection of Fine Biers, even Scottish. Marg bought me Boon Kriek, a splendid action. At least I had seen good Bier and now had one in my possession, Strasbourg would not be a Bier Desert.
Passing through the Square yet again we took a different route out. The Rue de Tonneliers proved to be a significant discovery. Les Berthom advertised decent Bier but was closed, Le Penjab Curry house was discovered and whilst Marg went into a Creperie for some reason or other, I walked the few paces along the street to Bar Exils which also had a decent range of Bieres au Pression.
Les Berthom was still not open, even as the Bells for their 16.00 opening time rang out. A small group of Desperados had assembled, finally.
A young Chap appeared behind the bar and asked what I would like. A menu was my reply. Come on. La Chouffe on draught was available, I asked about Lambic Biers, just in case, he pointed out Lindemann’s, no chance, Chouffe it was. The young Chap managed to be quite annoying. By now I had been in Strasbourg long enough to realise that speaking English is the most honourable way for us to communicate. ‘Zvei Cafe, s’il vous plait’ just does not work and it is too easy to get the languages mixed up having just crossed the border. Every street sign is in French and German, this is either very international of them or they are waiting for the German’s to take Alsace back again. Maybe they have already.
La Chouffe on draught in France is always a treat. In Aberdeen at The Harbour (a regular source) it is tasteless, why? Strasbourg was getting better with every sip.
Bar Exils had a board outside advertising the Chelsea v Wigan match at 17.00. Marg declared that she fancied watching this as we had seen no TV in the previous days. I was up for this. The game was not live but on an hour delay. Philosophical point: when Music is advertised as ‘Live’ the band are in the pub, when football…
Draught Kwak had been spotted, served in the traditional bulbous glass with wooden stand, it was Hector’s turn to be in his element. Marg does not drink Bier, with two exceptions: she in in the Hofbrauhaus, or I convince her there is a Kriek so sweet and weak that she will love it. Mystic Kriek ticked these boxes, the session was under-way.
It was approaching 18.00, the menu said Happy Hour at six. The Cathedral Bells rang out, a bell in the pub dinged! 500ml of Kwak would now be served at €4, as would all their draught Biers. I phoned Robin to ask permission to drink Kwak from a non-Kwak glass, under the circumstances this was approved. Marg’s Kriek refill came in a 500ml glass too, she was horrified. Tracey texted to ask why Marg was allowed to drink Kriek in this quantity when I had told her some time back that this does not work with Kriek, it becomes too sickly. By decanting into the original 250ml glass, everyone was kept happy, it was Happy Hour!
Free wi-fi gave the possibility of an even Happier Hour, it must have been to do with where we were sitting because the signal was so poor it was a waste of time.
We had to leave. Staying would have been madness. It was time to eat. We headed off in what seemed a wise direction in search of the classic Bistro. On reaching the Canal Perimeter, I knew if I crossed it we could end up anywhere. We walked along the Canal Bank and came across Le Bistrot des Copains, this was indeed charming.
I was determined to ensure that my meat was not bloody. I was served raw Duck in France two trips back. Our waiter’s English was as poor as his French, well that is my conclusion when man fails to communicate with Hector. A Romanian Chap was appointed to look after us, he was great fun. Six Snails were ordered to share, Marg was appalled, well almost, she ate one.
My meat was Veal so the blood risk was minimised, it was stuffed with Cheese, the portion was huge and somehow I had been given a bowl of Pommes Frites, moi? I cannot eat more than four Chips. Marg’s Chicken with Penne in a wonderful Garlic, Mushroom and Cream Sauce, was so good a version will make an appearance at Hector’s House one day soon.
On our departure we continued the walk along the Island Perimeter. The classic Postcard View of Strasbourg with the Towers guarding the entrances to the three canals was metres away. Ironically, so was the street back to the Gare and the Ibis. Flushed with success there was a call to celebrate. A glass of Leffe Blonde at Brasserie Le Dix, which had free wi-fi polished off the evening. Chaps, Leffe Blonde is sweet!
Bars, Restaurants and Brasserie visited today:
Restaurant Au Grenadier – 112, Grand Rue, 6700, Strasbourg, Alsace
Les Berthom – 18, Rue de Tonneliers, 67000, Strasbourg, Alsace
Restaurant La Stub – 4 Rue du Saumon, 67000, Strasbourg, Alsace
Bar Exils – 28, Rue De L’Ail, 67000, Strasbourg, Alsace
Le Bistrot des Copains – 12, Quai Finckwiller, 67000, Strasbourg, Alsace
Brasserie Le Dix – 10, Place De La Gare, 67000, Strasbourg, Alsace