In 1982 Hector and Kenneth took the train down the Elbe Tal from Praha to Dresden, a day trip in the Inter-Rail days. The scenery was amazing, I took many photographs, but this is one of three batches that have vaporised. I knew I would return to this formerly remote part of Europe eventually, twenty years appears to be the limit of eventuality.
The Rocky Pinnacles at Rathen were the attraction, and the Stone Bridges linking these at the Peaks of Bastei the potentially outstanding part of this entire trip. We were not to be disappointed.
I had booked three nights in the Hotel Amselgrundschlösschen, try remembering that when the Ferry man asked which Hotel we were staying in to justify selling a Return Ticket. The train had taken us to Kurort, on the bank of the Elbe directly opposite Rathen. Even from the Ferry Crossing one could see that this was indeed a special Place. The evening sunshine illuminated surrounding Peaks. Sächsen Schweize this region is called, with buildings along the valley sides it is like somewhere more Alpine.
We settled into the relaxed pace with dinner at the Rosengarten. For once Hector managed to find a Bier worth drinking – Eibauer Landbier Hell (Munch Brau, Eibau) – it would be his last in Rathen. Wine and finally Sparkling Water would be the drink of choice in the nights to come.
The plan was to have an energetic day taking in as many of the Walks and associated Sights as possible, and then visit the surrounding area by Boat the next.
The Breakfast at the Amselgrundschlösschen was superb, almost as good as the Hotel Royal (München). Suitably fuelled we set off to visit the Amselsee, a complete joke and the Waterfall beyond which only gushes impressively by request – 30 cents shot.
We would spend our time in Rathen et environs dodging showers, but the sun always came out at the crucial moments. There is an abundance of photographs, and if one has not worked out how to link to the full account of the Scenic Beauty of Rathen by now, then press THIS LINK.
Rathen is very quiet of an evening. Most people stay elsewhere, it was always a pleasure to know that at the end of each Walk, our Hotel was right there.
On the morning of the second day Marg insisted that we return to the Felsenbühne for the Show – Mein Freund Wickie. ‘It’s for the children.’ as Jean Luc Picard once had to say…
The tickets were €20.00, each. We had to walk up the step path once more to the Outdoor Theatre structured within the natural layout of the rocks.. I was being dragged to watch a Kiddies play, in German. I would understand one word in ten, Marg one word in ? It was a Musical, I hate Musicals, even Spamalot bored me. It was a Comedy, ah the German Sense of Humour…
I did understand the announcer say the whole affair would last two hours, ffs. Now when Marg and I attend the Theatre it is usually a Mature Group, the Cerebrally Informed Populous. This was full of Weans, Hunners of them. The show was about Vikings who were basically cowards, ha ha, people were rolling in the isles, not.
I left at half-time.
One had considered a walk to Königstein to meet a Boat back downstream, however with showers imminent the train was a fairer bet. So, five minutes from Kurort we alighted at Königstein to be gob-smacked, there was the Castle we had spotted way in the distance the evening before. There was no time to visit as we had just bought our Boat Tickets to Pirna, ah well.
The journey down the Elbe was not too dissimilar to the more familiar Mosel equivalent that Hector does once a year. Instead of Vineyards there were forested slopes. One has to marvel at the level of service on these Boats. In Scotland one may be offered a tin of some dreadful Beer and a Micro-waved Pie, here one can snack, enjoy Draught Bier, Wine, have a full meal if that is one’s desire. The Germans do Tourism properly.
Pirna turned out to be an unexpected treat. This is about fifteen minutes outside Dresden so even worth a visit from there, or instead of as I had chosen today. (Poor Dresden still looks totally unappealing.) The Sun was making a rare appearance as we wandered the streets, places look better in the sunshine. The half litre of Edelstoff vom Fass at the Wirtshaus Refugium will never be forgotten.
Our final meal and Bier in Sächsen was up the steep climb to Burg Altrathen where we were instantly recognised by the Waitress who had served us Wine at another venue the previous evening. We dined at a table a safe distance from the precipice, those who do not suffer from a Fear of Heights will never understand.
Our final half hour in Kurort Rathen was spent in the Eisensbahn, a Model Railway on a terrace featuring some well known Locomotive Classifications if one travels regularly with DB.
It is now July 12th, the Fate of Glasgow Rangers hangs in The Balance, all has gone quiet, have certain Friends of Hector had their fingers put in plaster?
