The Breakfast at the Hotel Austria in Mainz was impressive. Clive and I both remarked on the quality of the Scrambled Eggs. The Nürnberg Sausages were also excellent. The 08.30 RB to Koblenz would stop twenty times, Clive chose this train. Paying double the €10 fare to Traben-Trabach now felt like a better option. Still, it is not every day one goes down the Rhine Gorge. The clouds were low, not the best of mornings.
Changing at Koblenz and Bullay, we arrived at T-T bang on schedule at 11.40. Jonathan and Kari were sitting outside the Stork Stütze having Coffee, they were anticipating our imminent arrival, [Stan.TC] had watched us cross the Mosel from the vantage point that is the Bruckenschänke. It was now 32.5 hours since Hector began his journey to T-T.
Frank gave us the key for Room 1, a room that is actually two, the dividing door would provide the necessary privacy for The Couple. There was a feeling of deja vu, all over again. [Stan.TC] appeared on the stairs and we headed out to what was once upon a time Rolf’s – the Schlossbergschänke. These premises were closed at Easter when Marg and I were here. The memory of Rolf lives on, however the place has been totally redesigned inside as a restaurant and is now renamed the Schlossbergstübchen. As the first customers of the day at 12.15 they were happy to serve us Gaffel Kölsch.
How do we get to Wolf?
Had Steve been with us he would no doubt have walked. The Tractor was not visible, a Boat was leaving at 13.30, in five minutes time. €5 each for the short journey to Wolf. Sitting on the rear deck in the breeze was still comfortable. The Tractor overtook us halfway.
Arriving by Boat takes one to the wrong end of the Wolf Strassenfest, so we walked back along the river then up to the Tractor Stop. €8 for a Bottle of Trocken Weissewein, €12 Pfand for six glasses. And so The Party began. Two years ago Clive and Maggie missed Wolf when they managed to have a Barge Holiday in the English Midlands instead, Unglaublich! Jonathan has been a few times now, normally en route to München for the Oktoberfest. This is how [Stan.TC] first came to be sold on a Wine Festival. This year neither is heading on to München, they are both here for Wolf!
Jonathan’s sister – Kari – was making her Wolf Debut, a last minute addition to the Trip, and lucky to get a bed as every hotel in the Valley is booked out for this weekend. We like Kari. Hector was under instruction to write this. She is Kirstie’s Twin, we still like Kirstie.
Maggie was hungry, she returned with an impressive lump of Pork which Clive had to help her finish. Life can be this difficult.
Wine Stop #2 was full, a band were playing, people were sitting watching and not drinking, a disgrace. At Wine Stop #3 we took a table at the top of the steps outside the toilet block, a handy place. This is also where the best Food Stall in Wolf is located. The Garlic Prawns are a sensation. The Hirsch Gulasch with Noodles and Beeren Sauce is also now a ritual. We like Wolf. Maggie was hungry again.
Another Band came and took their position on the stairs. The three Trombone Players stood at the very top outside the toilet entrance, this gave us a perfect sound balance. The Lead Trumpet astonished us with his playing on one particular tune. Was it any surprise that Hector tracked him down later on and had a photo taken with him?
Maggie decided that her eyelids were too heavy to keep open and so laid her head on her bag. That was Maggie for the rest of the afternoon. Clive had to help her out and ensure that her glass was empty each time we moved on.
Hector picked out a Bottle for Kari when it was her turn to supply the Liquid. Starting on the right side of the Menu with Price, Trocken and Burgunder, it was only when Jonathan and [Stan.TC] caught up that is pointed out that on the left side the Wine was listed as Red. A Rotwein was planned, this was it, ahead of schedule. [Stan.TC] later managed to replicate a Wine had previously, then it was time for Sekt.
Das Ritual
It is written, the number of bottles of Sekt purchased shall equal the number of people present. The Sekt stall at the corner of the L-shape that is the Wolf Strassenfest had moved slightly. The seating was also enclosed in a Gazebo where the stall would normally be. This is when the day really kicks off. As Kari remarked we had been drinking glasses with a little over 0.1l per serving. It had taken hours to consume very little.
At the halfway stage [Stan.TC] wondered if the Six Bottles of Sekt would be achievable, silly man. Maggie continued to rest her eyes, Kari kept disappearing to make herself unhealthy.
Clive, Hector and Jonathan kept up the pace. A blast of cold air came down the valley, two years ago we were frozen out and had to take refuge indoors. The freak wind ceased, all was normal.
Recognition
Having been a visitor to T-T for ten years it is customary to at least be recognised at Wolf. Fred-The-Hero was here in company. He stopped to say – Hi!
The scores from the Honourable League were secured, another Honourable Draw away from home. We were all in remarkably good condition at the ante-conclusion. The Sun had set. Time to turn the corner and walk down to the river. The Spinning Steaks were in their customary location, one day we will try one. Venison Frikadelle may win out if we expand our food intake.
Two mature ladies had to budge up to let us on a table. In the darkness the town of Wolf was now buzzing. Jonathan became involved in conversation with a Dutch couple behind me. I was invited to join in, or did I just make this up? They spoke English, I insisted on speaking some German. They Couple were from Friesland, not Holland. Piet and Marian kept us amused for what felt like an hour. I suspect we amused them too. My German is way better when I don’t have to think about it, German comes. Piet and Marian were camping on the river bank, their first time at Wolf. Maggie was now wide awake, I changed tables. Piet and Marian were far more interesting, Maggie I had seen already. The conversation turned to the Scottish Parliament and we told how the system was set up so that no single Party could ever hold a majority, until it actually happened. Piet related how Proportional Representation works in the Nederlands. The Over 50s have three seats, I suggested they could hold the balance of power in the years to come given the changing demographics across Northern Europe.
Fond Farewells were given and details exchanged, until next year at Wolf.
How do we get back to Traben-Trarbach?
We expect to go by Taxi, Tractor or Boat, the return is always an adventure. Will the Tractor still be running? How big will the queue be? The Boats will have finished. A Taxi? Where from? Which queue? Do we wait or hijack one?
Arriving at the Tractor Stop there was a Bus, a first? The Destination made no sense, I asked the Driver – T-T? Genau! €2 each back to Traben-Trabach and once more we met Fred-The-Hero and his company. This could have easily been the 62 heading along Argyle St, how wonderful that the Powers that be provided this Chariot.
Time for a Bier
Wine is fine, Bier is better. [Stan.TC] and Maggie headed back to the Altstadt Cafe to see Frank. Clive joined Jonathan, Kari and Hector at Hami’s, Gisela was on duty. Altbier felt more demanding on the taste buds than a fizzy Kölsch. Kari produced her iPad and copied my photos. Jonathan was convinced that I would see the need for one, I am happy to stick with the trusty Samsung Netbook.
Back to Frank’s
There were only two customers not from our group enjoying the Reissdorf Kölsch at the Altstadt Cafe. Jonathan, [Stan.TC] and Kari were soon to call it a night. Maggie wished to do so too, but where was the key? I checked my pockets, Maggie emptied her bag, Clive stated he had no room key. But there it was, in his jacket, just where Maggie had put it. Women and keys. Jonathan claims he was still here at this point, the Camera never lies…
He is a Bad Influence
Clive stayed up to put the World to Rights as is our custom, he too disappeared. I was left once again with Frank calling up the finest of Music via his Laptop.
Spot the Bass Player
Michael Schenker, Ritchie Blackmore in various guises, Weather Report, even Turning Point. The Jazz did not impress Frank, he likes his music Loud and Heavy. Somehow Tangerine Dream was the last Music of the night. Frank reminded me that ten years ago Klaus Schulze, original Tangerine Dream member, and composer of many albums in the Hector Schallplatten/CD/DVD Collection stayed at the Altstadt Cafe. Ten years ago so did Hector!
Another year at Wolf.
Now for the journey home.
Restaurant and bars visited today:
Altstadt-Cafe – Mittelstraße 12, 56841, Traben-Trarbach
Schlossbergstübchen, Mosel Strasse 4, 56841 Traben-Trarbach
Hami’s Pils Stübchen – Weiherstrasse, 56841, Traben-Trarbach
Remind us in advance when you’re going to book for next year. Funds permitting, we’re thinking about coming along. I’ve not done Wolf and I am desperate to ride on a tractor!