So, how does One get to El Jem?
Having made our own way to Monastir there was little point signing up for an over-priced Travel Agent organised Trip to Monastir and El Jem. Even if it was El Jem alone, one would be face with spending an hour touring other hotels took pick up all participants, repeat the process at the end and no doubt be taken to every Carpet Factory en route.
We asked at the Sousse Bus Station (North Side of Medina) Hut where we were pointed South around the Medina. Where The Chap meant remained a mystery. We came across a congregation of Louage (Dolmus). Recognising some significance of our Wristbands, they wanted to take us to a Hotel. El Jem?
There is a large Louages Terminus West of the Bust Station. Here is organised mayhem. Let’s try the Station.
With the assumption that the Metro was not going that far, the Main Station lay beyond Les Louages.
There was a suitable Train in the morning, but nothing back. Should we go? and try our luck back?
It was our fifth day in Sousse, behold the Tourist Information Office. The Doris was surprised that there was no afternoon Train back from El Jem. She drew our attention to an Evening Concert being held there. Why? Was Transport available?
Eventually she produced a Photocopied Map and crossed our location and that of the Bus Station. Well, we knew where that was. A Map? We have been trying to get hold of one since our arrival. The Riadh Plams Hotel suggested we buy one in a Shop. Que?
The times of Buses were written, 10.30 would suit. No afternoon Buses and no information about Buses back. We would have to establish this at El Jem. Marg was invited to fill in a from saying how helpful Doris had been.
Time for Ice Cream
Glancing at The Map, I realised The Bus Station was not located where we had been already. This was Another Bus Station, South West of The Medina and a Louages Station beyond. Another Louages Station? The one at The Medina cannot surely be duplicated? We had better check this out.
Walking Westwards and Upwards we came to the designated Spot. Is that it? A White Featureless Building. It might be a Bus Station. We were close to the Catacombs that we had visited earlier. Right of Left? Right. Nothing, but wait, there’s the sign to a Museum which the Map shows to be here. We are in the Right Place. Try The Other Side. Marg accosted a Stranger. He pointed to the horizon. He walked with us another Half Kilometre along the Road to the Grand Routiere Bus Station. In Franglais we chatted. He was an Off-duty Policeman. No Tip required.
The Ticket Desk
Bert looked blank. Bus Station Doris had Franglais. 10.30 was established outwards. 13.30 suggested back. The tickets must be bought tomorrow.
We walked the route direct to the sea from the Grand Routiere. We passed through the Parts of Sousse that No Ordinary Tourist would Walk. The Industrial Zone, people at work. The Bakery was a highlight. Aroma. Reaching the Metro Line we walked back towards the Medina, and the Tourist Information Office. I had a few Comments to make. A Different Doris.
Your Map is not to Scale. The Bus Station is not where it is marked. It is here. You should be embarrassed at handing out This Map. There was No Comment. We were not invited to fill in The Form.
Tomorrow is another Day
Rather than walk forty five minutes to The Grand Routiere, a Taxi was in order. Our second in Tunisia. This was becoming Habitual.
Was it the same Bert? Two Return Tickets to El Jem – Allez et Retour.
Allez Seulement.
O.K.
Ticket Barrier Bert – Sept! I held up Seven Fingers.
We walked down to the concourse. The Platforms were clearly numbered One – Five. Now where would a Planner Site 7? We picked Our Spot.
The Buses in situ had no Numbers. The Buses in situ had destinations written in Arabic. Nothing else.
I asked a Driver, he pointed towards where we had stood. I asked another after he left, nothing. 10.30 had passed. People who had stood beside us had gone. I asked a third –
Il a partir!
Back inside, Driver #3 caught us up, took us to Ticket Officer Bert and arranged a refund. Honour.
The Bert and Doris looked Sheepish.
Les Louages
With The Map in hand we walked out of Le Grand Routiere towards the possible site as illustrated, nothing.
The Medina was traversed to get to the known Louages Depot on the far side. El Jem?
Nothing Direct. A Chap wanted to take us so far. Aye right.
Time to become a Capitalist
Both Taxi Drivers had quoted prices to El Jem. 140TND and 80TND. Hector had a Plan.
Back to The Riadh Palms, on foot. A tactic used before. Get the Security Chap to get us to El Jem.
Marg Haggled Upwards
Hector approached security Chap and offered the Price for The Trip. Marg now offered 100TND instead of the proposed 80TND. She has this habit, always worried that The Locals are not earning enough.
Thirty minutes later a Taxi Driver, The Middleman, was taking us to a Rendezvous Point at the edge of Sousse where our Driver, Dowdi, awaited in his Mercedes. This is how it works.
The Tunisians only Motorway is Peage, A Toll Road. In under an hour we were entering El Jem as many were streaming out of the Mosques, it was a Friday afternoon. Agreed our return time with Dowdi and we walked the final few metres to…
What did The Romans ever do for El Jem?
Ephesus and Aspendos (Tukey) and Pompei are Amphietares that Hector has been most impressed by, after The Original. The Amphitheatre at El Jem is almost as imposing as the Coliseum in Rome. It features on most of the Tunisian Publicity material, a site not to be missed. As we have gathered, not the most accessible. Yet it was its location Historically at the intersection of Trade Routes that gave the importance to El Jem. Dating from the Third Century C.E. This is one of the latter constructions of the Romans.
Three storeys remain on one side with access passageways still open to the public. No safety issues then. One side has been restored, a stage erected in the Arena and a Screen for showing Gladiator (!) no doubt. We took turns at testing the limits of pixel resolution of our respective Lumix Cameras. The light conditions were favourable and not a cloud in the sky.
The joy of coming privately is getting the opperchancity to capture the scene without the accompanying mob. As we left a Bus Trip arrived. Time for lunch.
Two Camels were at the approach to the Coliseum, surreptitiously photographing these and not annoying The Chap who wanted 1TND per photo, kept Marg amused whilst I waited for a Kebab. Marg also learned at this point that a Salad Tunisiene, does not have Tuna.
