Amsterdam bore no resemblance to my first ever visit back in 1964. Then everything was Frozen, this morning everything was Soaking. The ICE was waiting for Hector on Platform 2. Lord Clive and Lady Maggie were travelling #1, Hector was wedged with everyone else. After Utrecht there was not a seat to be had on the train.
Jonathan had flown down to Köln earlier and so once again would be waiting for us. The First Curry-Heute of the Trip was completed, The Rhein St. Martin Hotel checked into and all was set.
This Hotel was chosen for both Price and Location. Hector has always wanted to stay in the Altstadt. This Hotel is on the Waterfront at the corner of the Riverside Square. Ideal in Winter when the windows are closed, I imagine Summer Nights could be lively outside. The Bier Museum and the Haxenahus are metres away. The Rhein St. Martin closes for two weeks over the Festive Season. We don’t need the drinking brigade is what the Receptionist and Breakfast Lady told me.
Maggie and Hector arrived at the Traditional Meeting Point – The Glühwein Stand opposite Gaffel in the Alter Markt. Clive had arrived just before us. Not being able to check-in to the Ibis Barabrossaplatz he had retired to our old favourite haunt – Reissdorf at Klein Griechenmarkt for his first Kölsch. Smoking is still permitted in the main room. We stopped going there because of this, the new premises at the Altes Brauhaus in Köln-Sud are much Gemuchtlich.
Jonathan had started his Glühwein intake at the Dom end of the Alter Markt. Our Traditional Stall had moved. The original site was now the entrance to the Rathaus U-Bahn Station. After years of holes-in-the-ground and the fabled Blue Pipe running everywhere, the stretch from the Dom to Heumarkt is complete.
We Decanted further down towards Heumarkt. In previous years the thermals have been very much required. Today was unseasonably warm. Hector had left a Layer at the Hotel. The Ice Rink has been extended, there’s even a Bridge over it – cue some Aerial Photography.
The next Glühwein was Watery. Jonathan complained. The Doris exchanged four Cups of Red for White. People have been telling us this today – she informed us. We don’t know what’s wrong. The White Glühwein was too Sweet. Let’s move on, but not before Clive decided to Gatecrash some Photos. In the end they insisted he was in them. No photographic record of a Koln Visit is complete without Photos of Lord Clive of Crawley.
On the far side of the Ice Rink order was restored. Maggie went Shopping and bought a Bouncy Owl. The only Weihnachtsmarkt Purchase from the Markt. Why exactly were we here?
Bier O’Clock
Mühlen was the closest Bräuhaus. All the Tables were Reserved, except one. That was ours.
The Kölsch diluted the Glühwein and so we jumped on the Tram to Rudolphplatz to Top Up. It was strange seeing this Markt without Snow. Perhaps the Best Atmosphere of the Day so far. The City Walls add an Imposing Backdrop.
Jonathan is the U Bahn Expert. Hector has a Holiday from dragging people around. Chlodwigplatz next and Köln-Sud. We encountered a Couple on the U Bahn with the Biggest TV ever seen on Public Transport. This was a true – Fuckoff TV!. We couldn’t walk past Früh am Wiedel.
The North Side is finally smoke-free and so we stood here. The South Side again was busy and reserved. Maggie had to get her Photo taken with the Kobi. It appears that Lord Clive and Lady Maggie may now prefer having their Photos taken with Strangers.
The short walk up Severinstrasse took us to the Altes Brauhaus, the New Reissdorf. Music greeted us from within. The sign at the door said – Sod-Off. Well that was my translation. A Private Function? On the Saturday night at the start of the Festive Season? Das ist nicht Richtig.
And so Maggie and Hector had their second Curry-Heute, this time accompanied by Clive and Jonathan across the road at the Reliable – Indian Curry Basmati House.
Maggie’s Book
Maggie was now feeling the strain and desired to see her hotel room, which so far she hadn’t. She declared a desire – To read. Clive, the Dashing, Ever-faithful Husband, alighted at Barbarossaplatz. Jonathan and Hector carried on in the U Bahn to Friesenplatz, the location of the real Paffgen. At Friesenplatz all four directions look the same. I narrowed it down to Two and chose the wrong one. All Bar One is the usual Landmarq, The Big Coca Cola Sign is a further clue. On a fork to the left lies Päffgen the Driest of all the Kölsch.
The Kobi was as efficient as the custom requires. The 0.2l glasses kept coming. Clive was texted with precise instructions as to how and where to rendezvous. What Coca Cola sign? – he asked later.
By the Rivers of Babylon
Jonathan was now feeling the pain of his early rise for the Amsterdam–Köln Flight and he headed back to Messe/Deutz. Clive and Hector alighted at the new Rathaus U Bahn Station. Back to the start.
Sion could not be passed but we had an eye on the clock for access to the Früh am Dom Keller. We tend to overlook the wonder that is this Bräuhaus. Rarely do we pass the seats at the door. Beyond lies a magnificent room. New Polo Shirts were spotted. Next summer we must make a point of Remembering Sion.
Bye Bye, My Love
The Früh Keller has long been a Favourite Köln Venue. The Company brought in New Year at this very locus some six years back. Another chance to reminisce about the Lost Hour, when Craig and Yvonne could not find the Exit.
The smoking ban was relaxed here after a certain time of evening on our last visit. Tonight we could breath. Yay! This just leaves the original Reissdorf to see the light. Getting a table was not a problem. The noise level rose considerably after we sat down, it wisnae’ us. Früh is regarded by many as Second to Reissdorf. The latter has more Body, slightly more Malty. Yet there are those who won’t touch the stuff.
For years a Night in the Fruh Keller has ended with a very loud broadcast of Bye Bye, My Love. Clive went to ask the Doris on Duty, her Level of Indifference was at the Classic Level.
Bye Bye, My Love?, Aye Right.
Hector does prefer Altbier these days.
The Brewery Taps visited today:
Mühlen – Heumarkt 6, 50667, Köln, Deutschland
Päffgen – Friesenstraße 64, 50670 Köln
Brauhaus Sion – Unter Taschenmacher 5, 50667, Köln
Früh am Dom – Am Hof 12-18 50667, Köln
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