This being Hector’s fourth visit to Kraków, maybe it is time to write another Blog. The weekend was spent in Northumbria, a first. The Castles of Alnwick, Lindisfarne, Bamburgh and Eyemouth were all perused, Kraków has a Castle too. The flight was from Newcastle, at the time of booking the prices from Edinburgh were prohibitive, Newcastle was not cheap but the time out, Monday afternoon was perfect. The evening flight on Friday back also suited, it would give us time to get from Katowice to Kraków. Katowice? The real reason for this trip was too see Pendragon perform in Katowice, supported by Gary Chandler of Jadis. It was only a few weeks ago I discovered why the flights were priced above the norm, a football match in Warszawa – Polska v Scotland, tomorrow.
Rather than wait about for a bus, we had a taxi arranged to pick us up at Kraków Airport and whisk us straight to Boutique Hotel David in Kazimierz. We have stayed there before, it suits our purposes, in the heart of Kazimierz and Marg knows where she lives.
Hotel David is a few steps from the Main Square of Kazimierz, The Jewish Quarter. Stepping through here Hector was off in search of Szynk. My memory was that it was where two roads met at and angle, we were in a grid. A couple of streets West and there it was. The place where everyone except Hector had wonderful Food last year, tonight was my night.
The Bier range is Bog Standard Polish Eurofizz, not the Bier I was here to Savour. Bring on the Black Pudding Dumplings. Dumplings were on the Menu, no Black Pudding. I ordered the meat Dumplings, Marg went for Beetroot Soup, then Dessert. VDT!
By reasoned deduction, this place has changed hands since our last visit. Gone are the Elderly Couple who ran it, the atmosphere, the décor was simpler. Szynk no more? For Food fine, for Bier – go elsewhere. The BeerGallery Kazimierz is very close, or better still Omerta. Later.
Hector had other plans. Walking further West I was astounded to find myself at the end of Jozefa, twenty metres from Strefa Piwa, still my favourite Kraków Pub, open evenings only. Rowing Jack (Ale Browar) was the objective, it wasn’t on. The Barman assured me there were other Biers. From the same Brewery comes Hop Head at 5.6%. The Hops were there, the Bier was Dry, it was from the same Stable but it was not Rowing Jack. Tomorrow, if it’s available at this time of year the House of Beer in Stare Miasto (Old Town) may have it.
The Ceiling in Strefa Piwa remains a Curiosity. Even Marg was asking about Bier styles, but then she has been to a fair number of Bier Sources and knows what The Chaps like. Omerta called.
A few blocks East, and seconds from the Hotel David, you get it now, lies Omerta, Two Pubs in One. White AIPA at 6.6% and brewed by Bribant was a New Bier and a New Brewery for Hector. The Cascade Hops were in the face, Facial Contortions were the name of the game. The Chaps would love this. Marg knows her way home. Hector had spotted a Bier by another previously unknown Polish Brewery – Doctor Brew – alas a bell rang. It was nearing midnight, I have no idea about closing time here, I have tended to start here and head to Strefa Piwa. Tomorrow is another day.
Most certainly it is
The Buffet Breakfast at Hotel David has Continental, Cooked and various Jewish/Polish Delicacies on offer. Marg had Cooked, Hector ate Minimally, Curry-Heute at Ganesh was the plan. Walking into the Old Town via the West end of Kazimierz takes y
ou past the Castle, a more interesting walk than going up the east side. No Market today, a few shops were examined, not by Hector, I was a Spectator. Camelot, a Café on Tomaszu is Marg’s Favourite Venue in Stare Miasto.
This is quite a street, it is also the site of Ganesh, the Curry House, a Milk Bar where I had my first ever Polish Dumplings, a French Café which Marg also likes, The Beer Gallery specialising in Belgian Beer and The House of Beer. At Camelot Hector even sampled Yoghurt with Fruits of the Forest, Bitter or what? Marg was in her element, I know how to keep a Lady amused. Coffee, Cake.
Well the Ganesh Curry House was nearby and open. Thereafter we headed East, it was just after 14.00, The House of Beer should be open. Marg convinced me it had gone, we were a block too soon. The Beer Gallery and House of Beer are on opposite sides of the street. There was no Rowing Jack. Doctor Brew’s Summer Ale (abv indeterminate) was in the place of the Most Venerable Polish Bier. With American Hops it did the job, and more.
The Man from Bradford has been mentioning a new Multi-Tap Bier House called Multi Qlti of late. We had located it earlier and so the march across Ryneck was brief to the West side of Stare Miasto. This is an upstairs Venue, a converted apartment as far as I could tell. Young Chaps staffed the Bar, we were the First Customers. Marg ordered a Soft Drink and chose the seat. I studied the Board. Dismissing all of the Bier styles I didn’t want I was left with another untied Bier by Ale Browar who of course make Rowing Jack. Hop Sasa PIPA at 5.0% was initially too sweet after the Summer Ale, but calmed down.
There is a smoking room isolated by an ill-fitting door to the far right and back. I suspect I shall be heading left next time I come here. Time for a WLD.
We walked out of the first restaurant we entered in the heart of Kazimierz. One Doris was serving the entire Restaurant, when we realised how many people had Menus, we went next door to a more Traditional Polish Restaurant. Restauracja Bombonierka was nether chosen for its name or address. It turned out to be Excellent. That Marg had Tiramasu for Dessert meant the Game had started by the time we departed.
There was no problem finding the Scotland Match on TV this evening despite the fact we were in a foreign land. Moment had seats, a TV, and Paulaner Weizen (München, Bayern) vom Fass, an appropriate Bier to consume in Poland watching Scotland. That the Poles thrashed the World Cup Winners last weekend made the prospect of a Scottish Victory all the more remote.
The Poles went one up as we took our seats. The equaliser came soon after, a Cheer from the Two Foreigners, and looks from everyone else. When Scotland took the lead there was an even louder Cheer. Some left. Marg knew the Poles would equalise, they did. Still, a Draw away from Home, against the team who were first to beat the Germans after Brasil 2014.
Time for Better Bier
Back to Omerta, Doctor Brew’s Cascade at 5.5% was waiting. With the Classic US Hops, this Amber-Gold Ale was easily the Best Ale consumed on this trip so far. This is one to shout about when Hector gets home.
We were joined by a Yorkshireman who spotted the G-RAF t-shirt with the CAMRA Logo. We chatted about, well everything. He was surprised we were happy with the Draw. The Stats showed how much Scotland had dominated. Am I really writing these words? Both us Chaps were enjoying the Cascade, however the rest of his company had made a beeline to the Alternative Bar in the other room with Non-Polish Bier on offer.
And so that was Hector’s Final Ale of this Trip, in Kraków .
The Cafes, Restaurant and Pubs visited:
Strefa Piwa – Józefa 6, 31-056 Kraków
Multi Qlti – Ul. Szewska 21, Kraków, 31-009
Restauracja Bombonierka – Beera Meisselsa 24, Kraków 30-001
Moment Resto Bar and Music Cafe – Józefa 26, 31-056, Kraków
Cafe Camelot – ul. Sw. Tomasza 17, 31-022, Kraków
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