By my reckoning, sunrise was after 06.00 in Agra today. This meant an even earlier start than normal to be at the Taj Mahal, presumably for the good light, though late afternoon in my humble opinion can be warmer and create better shadows. Perhaps because of the sheer whiteness of the Palace it is better seen in the pale colour, singular, of dawn.
The Gateway Hotel is only a couple of kilometres from the Taj Mahal, yet we were a half hour in our Coach, and then we still weren’t there. As at Fatehpur Sikri, we had to board a Bus to take us the last kilometre. An Electric Bus it may be thus reducing pollution immediately around the Complex, or just another racket to have people pay more. Yesterday the Entry Price took a significant hike. Is this to pay for the cleaning? Three of four Minarets covered in scaffolding, when was this planned. When did the Tour Company know of this? Should they have told us at the time of booking? Would anybody have chosen to undertake The Golden Triangle this year had they known in advance? Still, we were here.
The regulations about what cannot be taken on site were rigorous. For once we went through a metal scanner where they took it seriously. We were told – no bags – for those arriving by independent means, this is impossible. The Ladies Queue took longer.
As is the Architectural style, there was an impressive Portal to the compound before one finally gets the first glimpse of this most famous of buildings.
There was a crowd
Bhupi had to do his bit, telling us how Shah Jihan had the place built as a Memorial and Burial Place for his favourite wife, Mumtaz. Built totally in White Marble, his plan was to have a Black Marble version built across the Yamuna River with a bridge connecting the two sites. This never came to be, Shah Jihan lies beside his wife, the only part of the construction which is asymmetrical.
Zoom lenses come in handy, they can remove the mass of people if one is elevated. The most famous viewing platform is halfway along the garden approach to the Palace itself. Professional Photographers hog the #1 Bench for their customers. One could wait, or come back later in the day. Still, we had our own Diana with us, she did not require a Bench.
The water features were not active, again shoddy for the once in a lifetime visitor. There was a Kingfisher, the flying variety, this would make Marg’s day. With shoe coverings in place, we entered the Taj Mahal itself, polishing the floors as we progressed.
No photos were permitted in the Burial Chamber, not that this is the real one. In all of the Mausoleums visited, the Grave one sees is a replica of the real one underneath and out of sight.
I have marvelled previously about the symmetry of the Taj Mahal, from whatever angle you look at it, the same view maintains. The alcoves are magnificent in their decoration. As the sun became higher so these showed their splendour. The view back to the Gateway also improved, as did the awareness of the two remaining Gates. Everything is done in – Fours – in Moghul Architecture. Just the three Minarets in scaffolding then. We had to accept it, close up it was less of an issue, however, one’s photos will not be as good as those who subsequently visit.
The two youngest members of The Group, Manisha and Karina, had dressed up for a special Photo-shoot. Tina, too. It was Marg who recorded this sequence.
As the sun became higher still, the shadows made the Taj Mahal appear even more outstanding. So why Dawn, one or two hours after may be better? On the east side, the Taj Mahal eventually started to reflect the sunlight. Straining to avoid fencing, a Chap offered to let us through for a small consideration. Why he was permitted to stand here and authorise this is part of the petty corruption Hector deplores. No thank you.
Breakfast
We were back at the Gateway Hotel, as per yesterday, it was Curry o’clock. Having resisted the Interesting Part of the Hotel Buffet Breakfasts, just in case, the digestive system was feeling confident. As ever, Curry-Heute.com fills in the details.
With the temperature rising, 40°C is The Hector Comfort Zone, it was back out into our air-conditioned Bus with Raj handing out chilled bottles of water. For the first three days the water was, as it came, isn’t it wonderful when Indians realise that fridges are not instant coolers?
Agra Fort
Could anything compete with Amber Fort? Twenty four hours in Agra and one is becoming used to the layout. The Bridge across the Yamuna has to be approached by a roundabout route. We passed the Lady Dobie Wallahs spreading the washing on the river banks. One can move from Luxury to the opposite end of the spectrum in minutes, yet still, as I taught for thirty four years: in societies where there are no Freebies, people have to work. 
Thoughts go back to the Egyptian Farmers who gave up in favour of opening yet another Trinket Shop in the Souq. The same has happened here, mechanisation has driven people off the land (ouch!). How many customers per day when everyone sells the same old rubbish? One has to admire the Chaps driving the overloaded Rickshaws or whatever means of transport are within their budget.
Approaching High Noon, Agra Fort was looking popular. If everyone does the Taj Mahal at daybreak, then this is next – must do. The Moat was impressive, the Entrance Portal once again gave no clue as to what lay behind. Bhupi did his bit, possibly the least portable Bath on The Planet was marveled at. What has changed, to be so indulged, the haves and have less, nothing.
Sandstone gave way to Marble. The House of The Favoured Wife, her Rival, Jahangir, the Wicked Son who poisoned his Father, The Mother in cahoots. The stories are told, what remains is Architecture, the realisation that so few rooms have walls until one reaches – The Private Places. Doors are locked, part of the Fort remains off-limits to Tourists, a Mosque. As with Fatehpur Sikri, this is a substantial part of the complex. This did not rival Amber Fort, however, there was more to it than the Taj Mahal, the unexpected, what is behind the next Portal?
Hector was finally asked to pose with a Local, a Chap, later entire Families, was it the Red T-shirt? Prog Rules – they thought they recognised the Logo, tee-hee.
We had the afternoon free. There was an optional excursion later today, we all signed up, that is how our Group is. What to do?
I enquired as to how warm the Water was in t’Pool yesterday, Marg suggested it was within acceptable parameters. In we go, Hector swimming #2. Marg has plans for me when I get home.
There was a Buffet Dinner at the hotel this evening, our Final Buffet, a Late Lunch was mooted. We braved the Outside, retracing the steps of last evening. Pizza anyone? We had the choice of Dominoes or Pizza Hut, we chose the latter. Pizza, Italian Cuisine, or is it? Never did The Hector think that Pizza Hut would appear on Curry-Heute. It simply had to.
No wonder they call this – The Baby Taj – I’timad-ud-Daulah – does not exactly roll of the tongue, plus having seen a few Indian Mausoleums on this Trip, they are all heavily influenced architecturally by what has come before. I blame – The Planners.
Security was less evident at this site, one could take all the photos one desired. Sadly graffiti adorned one section which was in juxtaposition to the fact that we were wearing our shoe coverings retained from the Taj Mahal this morning.
Mother Taj
This extra outing concluded with a return to the Taj Mahal, well almost. We found ourselves in the Park across the Yamuna River, the site where the Black Taj was originally planned by Shah Jihan for his own Tomb. We had been sold on seeing the Taj Mahal at Sunset. We arrived around 17.30 a full hour before the Replacement Samsung revealed the sun would set.
From our vantage point we could see the land along the riverbank adjacent to the Taj Mahal. There are some interesting looking Fortifications which have fallen into disrepair. Maybe Agra does not need further Tourist Attractions at this locus.
Our Group ended up sitting on the grass waiting for the setting sun to create perfect light and long shadows, not this evening. There was a haze on the horizon, nothing happened. We departed five minutes before sunset. What did we miss?
Staying in, in Agra
Tonight, The Final Buffet and despite the Lamb, a disappointment. Those who had gone to find Bier last night were not for going out there again. About half of us assembled informally in the Bar area. A couple of ripoff Kingfishers before calling it a day. We have had two successive early rises, tomorrow we return to New Delhi.
The hotel and restaurant visited today:
Gateway Hotel – Fatehabad Rd, Tajganj, Agra, Uttar Pradesh 282001, India
Pizza Hut – 8, Handicraft Nagar, Fatehabad Rd, Tajganj, Agra, Uttar Pradesh 282001, India
India Trip 2016 – Day 8 – Agra – New Delhi – The End is Nigh
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