Three Post-Lockdown Days in Berlin

Tuesday – September 8

The 09.48 ICE took us from München to Berlin in just under five hours, previously I have flown this.  That the train stopped in Bamberg and for once we did not alight, made history. Bamberg and the Bocks are planned for late in the year. Arriving on time at Berlin Hauptbahnhof, an astonishing event that will go down in history occurred. As I stood on the platform waiting for Steve, Clive and Howard to assemble, a chap engaged me in Deutsch. Assuming he was asking for directions, I replied that I was – Ein Auslander – and therefore of no help. He switched to English:

You are Hector Curry-Heute, I read your blog.

Unglaublich! Hector is recognised in Deutschland, giving the Curry Blog a German name has its merits. A pity most of the Curry in Deutschland is not up to the required standard. Anyway, The Hector Fan Club, of one, gave a recommendation.

The swollen head still fitted on to the escalator, an RE took us to Alexanderplatz where we checked into the Ibis Budget, two stops away on the tram.

Where to begin? During Lockdown, I put quite a bit of effort into Bier-Traveller to provide the background detail – the dropdown menus – above. Full coverage of the venues in Berlin visited to date is there for those who want the facts: the tasting notes, advice on transport, and photographic coverage of the venues.

BRLO was visited briefly one evening a year or so back, not the best of experiences, however, it was reportedly open earlier than the majority of Craft Beer venues in Berlin. Normally, Bier o’clock is celebrated at Augustiner Gendarmenmarkt, however, I think we’ve had enough traditional German Bier for one trip.

Gleisdreieck, a remarkable name for an U Bahn station. It was dark last time I came here, spotting the building made from containers was much simpler in daylight, especially when I knew what I was looking for. BRLO was closed, or was it? Signs guided us around the back to a Biergarten, all was well.

With only a handful of customers, the place looked as if it had just opened @15.00. A chap greeted us, in English of course, this being the language of Craft Beer Houses in Berlin. We were invited to register our names using a QR code. He then pointed to the self-service huts where the Bier and the food was being served. Having made our purchases, Mein Host informed us that we were sitting adjacent to the brewers, photo required.

This is the sort of welcome one does not get at Kloster Andechs.

Two Biers were sampled, the C4PO (7.0%) West Coast IPA was preferred by Steve and Clive.  The full on Milkshake that is Blurry Vision (6.5%) was the first new – Guvnor – of the trip, an excellent NEIPA.

Pork Ribs in a tasty sauce, with a powerful tasting Kartoffelsalat rich in Gherkins, was accompanied by three Gherkins, and had by all. Not cheap food by any means, but highly recommended.

With camouflage netting above us, providing some shade until the hops and vines overgrow it, this was an excellent place to spend a Tuesday afternoon. After a tentative first visit in 2018, BRLO is now firmly on the radar, a must visit venue.

U Bahn and tram took us to the Stone Brewing Taproom in Prenzlauer Berg. On arrival, it was clear something was not right. Stone – had been erased, the premises gutted.

People were on hand to tell us of a grand opening on Sunday, too late for us. Stone have pulled out of Europe, the Bier brewed in the US is perceived to be better than that brewed in Europe, presumably since the Marienpark catastrophe. We were told that some of the staff would now be found at Protokoll, another must visit venue.

The walk to Bräugier took ages, in the end, Howard and Hector strode on leaving Steve to navigate for Clive. Brian was behind the bar:

So you made it then.

I had texted Brian earlier, but despite having replied, it never arrived. T&T forms completed, we took the table nearest the bar, the place to be since we could not take up our normal places at the bar itself.

Colin appeared from my rear:

I thought you had been asked not to come back.

Such is the friendly welcome at Bräugier, Colin joined us, and later took us on a tour through the brewing plant.

This was Clive and Howard’s first visit to Bräugier, now they get it, and the Bier, well God-Damn Zilla!, a Double NEIPA at 8.1% must definitely be the new – Guvnor.

That was our end of night session Bier, prior to that I had worked my way up via Totalitarian Book Club, a 6.3% DDH NEIPA, and Im Westen Nuchts Neues a West Coast IPA t 6.5%.

The Bier range may have been limited due to the downturn in business after Covid-19, but still, what choices. Opening days are presently down to four times a week, which means we’ll have to amuse ourselves somewhere else tomorrow night. It also means that Marg and Hector’s Berlin trip the week after next will have to be extended by one night. I’m not coming to Berlin and not having at least one night at Bräugier.

A tram, just after 01.00 took us down the hill towards Alexanderplatz, it’s tomorrow already.

Wednesday  –  September 9

Schöneiche bei Berlin, or Petershagen/Eggersdorf, both lie to the east of Berlin. They were the onlyBadshahCurry Houses which Hector could find. A wild goose chase?

With Clive in tow, it was off to Friedrichshagen to find the connecting tram to Schöneiche. On arrival, one could only marvel that such a leafy residential suburb, featuring traditional German architecture, could have evolved in such a relatively short period. This was the DDR, maybe some were already less equal?

Curry matters attended to it was back to Berlin. Howard was having a quiet start to the day, Steve was again scooting about on one of those contraptions that litter the streets of Europe. The Castle Berlin Mitte was our rendezvous point.

Despite the charms of the Scottish barman, I did not exactly take to The Castle. Last night’s crescendo at Bräugier meant Hector was taking it easy. Anyway, nothing on the Board enticed. After Curry at home, Strongbow is the preferred palate cleanser and aid to digestion. Bottled Strongbow was in the fridge, but not the standard fayre. Maybe this stuff was an attempt at actually being closer to proper Cider? Whatever, it did the job but was not as good as – the real thing.

My fellow imbibers chose from the Board, there was no wild enthusiasm for anything sampled.

None felt the need to prolong the visit, it was time to head back east to Ostkreuz.

Hommelsap at Straßenbräu had Jonathan, Steve and Hector in raptures on Visit #1 back in December. Inevitably, this was not available today. Steve and Hector led the way to the – spot – in the Brewpub where brew-plant meets bar. By sitting here we maintained our social distance from the other customers both inside and out.

Pew Pew ! DDH IPA at 6.2% did not set the heather on fire and so it was time to try something completely different. Beerengarten at 6.0% is a Sour, based on Berries as the name suggests. This titillated the palate, and made the visit worthwhile. We were well looked after by the barmaids.

It was soon time to go off in search of – the Milkshake.

A bus took us a few stops closer to Protokoll. Somehow, we all managed to walk past the multitap bar on the opposite side of the street. Are they trying not to attract attention to themselves?

A high table directly in front of the bar would be home for the rest of the evening. Track & Trace dealt with once more, individual tabs were set up. The Board told us we would not be going anywhere else this evening. Zagovor (Russia) featured prominently, US brewed Stone to a lesser extent. At least Stone still has some presence in Berlin after the hiatus of recent times.

Hector decided to stay local, first up was Whippersnapper at 8.0% – Fuerst Wiacek (Berlin). This DH DIPA was the sought after full on Milkshake, excellent.

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We tried the various Zagovor options.

Bitter End at 8.3% looked as if it would be the night’s biggest challenge, a DDH DNEIPA it proved not to be the winner, this was definitely Against Milk, a NE Milkshake IPA at 6.5%.

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We had found our Bier for today. We had also found the best alternative to concluding a night at Bräugier who were not open today. The staff engaged as and when they were free of other customers. Protokoll was indeed proving itself to be a worthy venue.

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The final challenge of the night was an outrageous Imperial Milk Stout. Algorithm Coconut at 13.9% had the big Coconut hit on top of Chocolate. The palate needed a rest from the – hop overdose – this was just the Bier.

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All were hungry, somehow we spotted a Punjabi Curry House and despite sticking our heads in the door, we walked on. Frankfurter Tor looked impressive by night, back in the days of the Berlin Biermeile we had always left by dusk. The U Bahn took us the few stops back to Alexanderplatz where Hector had – promised – all that that there was a late night Kebap shop adjacent to our tram stop to the Ibis Budget.

We sat in, some ordered way too much food. Even Hector the Sensible was defeated.

The second Kebap of the trip, with one more night, probably the last.

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