Monday, April 24
Glasgow Airport delivers a new route to Porto, Hector had to try this. Hopefully no more middle of the night rises for the easyJet flight from Edinburgh to Lisboa.
Unlike our arrival in Lisboa last year where it took more than one hour to clear Passport Control, Marg, Steve and Hector almost waltzed through Porto Airport. Having found the Metro station at the Airport, purchasing tickets was frustrating, not enough working machines. We were beckoned on to a waiting train to the city, a lovely chap was keen to show us the routes and Trindade interchange on the diagram. Hector has been here before, on the Athens Metro. The chap’s hands were hidden, suddenly the zip on the pocket containing my wallet was down. Zips & Chains: Hector now has a secondary line of security, the tug gave it away. He knew he had been foiled, tapped everyone else on the back and headed off to try elsewhere. Welcome to Porto!
We arrived at our accommodation directly outside São Bento terminus station. 22°C, this is why were were here. Suitably attired, it was back to the train station to purchase tickets for the onward journey to Lisboa on Thursday. Steve flies home from Porto on Friday. The tiled walls of São Bento were admired once more. Last year we took shelter from a downpour, no sign of rain today.
Hector led the troupe down Rua das Flores, the pedestrianised street which leads down towards the River Douro. There were cries of – need food – from my fellow travellers. Shaded tables were taken outside a cafe. A snack was the plan, dinner later. Special Hot-dog (€7.50)? I wondered what differentiated this from the standard €5 version. Now that I know, I strongly advise that people stay clear. A Frankfurter in a bun, however, Cheese and Ham were also present. Doesn’t sound too bad? Then smother in Tomato Soup, and put Fries on the side. For Hector, dinner was no longer a priority.
The walk along the north bank of the Douro is spectacular, the bridges and Gaia across the water. We agreed to leave the other side until tomorrow.
After the ritual photos, Marg required ice-cream. What a miserable portion. Steve and Hector had – Port.
Getting to the Douro is relatively simple, it’s downhill all the way. Getting back up, well, there are buses, however, no metro station is accessible without a steep climb. A new Metro line is under construction, this could take years. Porto badly needs a mass transit system to get people off the riverside
Knowing the lie of the land, Hector led the party beyond the Ponte Luis I to the queue at Funicular dos Guindas. €4.00 each, taking us up behind São Bento and the cathedral. No sweat, literally.
It was Bier o’clock. Two venues stood out that I had not spotted last year. Alvares Brewery Co. Taproom and Baobab – Craft Beer Bar. They are next door to each other on Rua do Almada to the north-west of Aliados Metro station. On the walk up, we passed Baixada Brewery & co on the same street. I have never found Baixada to be open.
The Alvares Taproom first. On examining the board, there was not much representation of Alvares Bier. Steve and Hector both had the tried and tested Urraca Vendval (8a Colina, Lisboa) 6.0% AIPA at source. The relatively high IBU registered on the palate, quite a departure from the string of Two by Two (Wallsend, England) and Almasty (Newcastle upon Tyne, England) NEIPAs we have been lucky too imbibe currently at The State Bar, Glasgow.
The young chap behind the bar was happy to discuss Bier. On asking after NEIPA, he led me to the fridge where there were some Alvares cans on display. The Lost City of El Dorado at 6.0%, featured Mosaic and El Dorado Hops, now we’re talking. Alas, there were only two cans of this Hazy IPA left in the fridge. Steve had something else, he missed out. This was easily the best Bier I have ever had in Porto.
Alvares‘ actual NEIPA was featured on posters, some empty cans were on display. What’s the story here, they don’t have their own Bier?
Trying to judge my companions resilience, I suggested we move next door, hopefully there would be a big and satisfying conclusion to the evening. The welcome at Baobab was warm. Marg spotted – one year – balloons. Baobab had just celebrated their first birthday. Suzy and Dendy from Slovakia, took the brave step of leaving their homeland to establish a business in the up and coming Craft Beer scene in Porto. They confirmed that Alvares have been in situ less than a year. Marg insisted she had been there last year, QED. Somehow, the latter has been granted outdoor seating, Baobab has not, and there is encroachment. FYI: Baixada reportedly keep strange hours.
With eight taps and a varied board, the Double NEIPA stood out. Dance O(u)r Dance at 8.6% (IberWolf, Maia, Porto), a hazy gold, was almost muddy. There was nothing nasty here, which may be criterion #1, but after the Mosaic-laden IPA next door, this was not doing very much.
There was a fine display of Cans in the fridge, however, Steve and I both opted for the house Bier: Zimborka (Baobab- Barona, Porto), a 4.5% Sour. Cranberry Sour with Juniper, to be precise. Suitably – pink – this was not an in your face Sour. A decent palate cleanser between IPAs, something working at G-RAF has taught me over the years. G-RAF, I’ll have to make my mind up soon as to how many hours/days to commit to.
Tomorrow is a national holiday in Portugal – Freedom Day. Suzy and Dendy were taking a much needed day off. We promised to return on Wednesday.
Two minutes around the corner, with a walk which inevitably featured both up and down, lies A Fábrica da Picaria Cervejaria artisanal, my favourite venue from last time in Porto. Their 6.0% – Milkshake IPA – was the highlight last year. It was still posted on the board above the bar, but not on the side board. No Milkshake IPA. Instead a 6.0% APA which despite only being marginally hazy, packed a fruity punch.
With seats established through the back, the Bier kept coming. The nomenclature for the downstairs facilities amused last year. They have taken it down, boo!
I took on the younger of the serving chaps who I thought I had recognised. He spotted himself in the photos posted from last year. Wesley assured me that next week, Picaria will be brewing another Milkshake featuring Lactose.
Not the conclusion to the evening I had hoped for. Had Alvares stocked more of the right Cans, I may have led my companions back there. Downhill on the way home, we could hear a major firework display. We arrived at Aliados to see the final flurry, a bit like Marg and Hector in Paris one Independence Day.
Tuesday, April 25
Marg was out exploring, exercising early. One cannot play hockey and not train. With Metro tickets recharged, we headed out to Sete Bicas and the Norte Shopping Mall where lies a Curry House. Chutnify (Prenzlauer Berg, Berlin) impressed, Chutnify Canteen in Porto did not. Read all about it!
We had arranged to meet Steve at Serra do Pilar, the white tower and viewpoint at Gaia. I saw no point in giving away our height advantage needlessly. Steve had been off on a boat trip and so had no choice but to climb the gorge wall. Somehow we arrived at the ramp up to Serra do Pilar simultaneously. Steve did admit he spent some time trying to find the way up the last bit.
The viewpoint is magnificent, and way better photos were secured today compared to last year. From there, we took a less obvious path down to the riverside. Port – was the objective. Taylor’s if our route took us far enough inland, otherwise Sandeman. These are the two we knew, however, at Sandeman’s what I had read online held. They’re only interested in hosting tours then sampling, no walk-ins. 
We found a table in the shade at a cafe next door to Sandeman’s. Beira Douro would satisfy our needs. Rather than pay for Port by the glass, the young waiter said he would declare the price of the bottle for each of the Ports listed. €17.50 for a bottle of Dalva – Ruby Porto at 19.0% seemed good value, especially being at a waterfront location.
Our waiter brought four glasses, one was for demonstration. We had ordered soft drinks also, the step count today was already significant. Marg did have a glass or so before ordering Coffee. Steve and Hector tore in.
This was the life, shade from the bright sunshine, Port at source, watching the river traffic, as well as being entertained by the passing musician. How does the reputation of Port differ from Buckfast and El Dorado? Better marketing!
Bier o’clock was approaching. Hector had a plan which avoided walking back uphill. Cask Beer is the only venue at sea level. It is of course back in Porto, a twenty minute walk was required. There were a few notes of discontent, Hector had another plan. Uber quoted €3.50 to take us to Cask Beer. This was a no brainer, another Uber could get us uptown later, sorted.
Jose was able to pick us up outside Beira Douro, anywhere else on the waterfront and this would not have been possible.
Due to the limited road crossings, Jose had to drive upstream to the next high bridge, by this time his music had stimulated conversation. Marg asked if he had heard – Pendragon. His phone was passed back, alas another artist called Pendragon was broadcast. Hang on: Arena’s – Hanging Tree (Clive Nolan plays keyboards in both bands) popped up. We were treated to this eight minute epic from Marg’s favourite Prog album. Thereafter the algorithm took over. Some Fish, then Road of Bones (IQ) appeared on the dashboard, another eight minutes. Yes we were well stuck in traffic, every junction a bottleneck. Walking would have been quicker. We were dropped of at Cask Beer eventually, I promised Jose a tip. Uber charged us another €3.50 due to the unexpected length of the journey in terms of time. Porto needs to get its transport system in order.
Cask Beer had only been open a matter of days when Hector and Marg visited last year. Mein Host welcomed us, but did not remember our visits. Today, a choice of NEIPAs. Steve went Spanish, Hector back to Berlin. FrauGruber’s Hop Madley at 6.5% appeared to be right up Hector’s tree. After the Port, it took a time to taste anything significant. Another proved to be more rewarding.
Steve was settling in. Marg was having Lindemann’s Framboise one of the few Biers she likes. Hector had two more venues in mind, close to each other, but across town, and very much uphill. Another Uber was ordered. I watched it approach on the app, then stop. No communication was forthcoming. Eventually I discovered an issue with the processing of Jose’s tip. Hector had been frozen out. Time for another Bier.
This time, Hector went Spanish, Steve had been enjoying Boat Drinks (Basqueland Brewing Project, Espana). At 6.0%, another full on milkshake hazy NEIPA which I found to be sweeter than its Berlin counterpart.
Food was ordered, Marg got herself Ribs, Chicken Wings for Hector. Whatever a Black Burger is, Steve had it. I might wake up tomorrow with feathers.
Armazémda Ceveria has only been visited briefly, around the corner lies Letraria Porto where fun appears to be guaranteed. Well it was our local last year, being close to the Ibis. Given the passage of time, I declared Letraria as our next venue. Another Uber was summoned, there was no problem apart from the driver not being able to find the low road on which Cask Beer is sited. Away she went, back she came. And what a route to Letraria, we saw another part of the city not seen before. With SatNav in vogue, presumably the optimum route was taken. Porto needs to sort out its road network. Still, €6.28 between three, not a problem.
Two chaps were behind the bar in the otherwise quiet premises.
Letraria has most of its seating downstairs where there is a duplicate set of taps. Twenty four taps, five possibly – in the style. Tasters were forthcoming, Rebendita (Letra, Braga, Portugal) at 6.0%, a Milkshake IPA became the final Bier of the day. We had another.
Downstairs we went, with the door to the garden open it was a bit chilly. Back upstairs, the only low table was occupied by a chap with a laptop. It turned out he was – The Boss – and was doing the accounts. There was no interaction despite being propped at the window beside him for a good hour or so. A pity. Rather than take the Metro home, it was decided, by others, that we would walk. Fortunately it was all downhill. En route we passed Fábrica Nortada, a brewpub I visited last year and a possible venue to watch tomorrow’s football.
Wednesday, April 26
Today, the Bus Tour of Porto. Marg had sourced the information from an agent across from the accommodation. €22.00 for a twenty four hour ticket. Do the buses run all night?
Having bought the tickets, I insisted we have a snack before embarking into the unknown. Marg took me to a cafe opposite São Bento in which she had coffee earlier. Mornings? Marg goes for exercise, Hector writes up this stuff.
The first half hour of the Bus Tour covered the area we had seen last night in our taxis tours. Sitting upstairs in the open, it was time for – the hat – securely attached, of course.
As we headed westwards through Boavista, it became apparent that the commentary was out of sync with events happening. What tower, what office? I think it is fair to say that away from the gorge, Porto ain’t all that interesting. Boavista, we didn’t even see the stadium.
We alighted at the furthest extremity of the tour and walked back to the next pickup point, along Praia de Matosinhos. Hector put a finger in the Atlantic, enough already.
We could see the next bus and so did not dally at the castle – Forte de São Francisco Xavier. We considered alighting at the next castle – Fortaleza São João da Foz, but could see nobody in it from our vantage point.
So back along the coast road, the Tourist Tram ran parallel, this may be as good as any means of getting our to the west of Porto and the beaches. The 500 Bus, even easier.
As we approached the city centre, it was matter of finding a new Bier venue. Gulden Draak Bierhuis Porto was in the right part of town, the same locale as the cluster of Bier houses visited on Monday night. I let Steve know our plans.
Alighting at São Bento which restored our altitude, we went to see Mr. Garrett’s Statue in daylight. A pity that Porto’s main square is in such disarray, but as I may have hinted, the new Metro line is much needed.
The tap Bier at Gulden Draak was either not for Hector or OTT Tripels. Tripel Van De Garre (De Garre, Brugge, Belgien) at a mere 11.5%, has been had oft at source since 1997. It did take almost two hours to drink, but as we were the only customers at the 17.00 opening time, who cared?
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Marg and Hector were having Portuguese food tonight. Lagostim, visited last year, proved to be good value, even for the wine. Steve was waiting outside for us as they opened at 19.00.
What of Steve today? Having decided not to join us for the Bus Tour, he changed his mind and so was around an hour behind us. He concurred with the poverty of information and synchronisation.
At Lagostim, Steve had Steak, Marg – Salmon – and Hector – Duck. All very Portuguese. The Mateus Rose most certainly was.
With F.C. Porto playing away from home in a Cup semi-final, I decided to abandon plans to go to Nortada. I needed a Sports Bar. Bonaparte Downtown appeared to tick the boxes, it was not far away, and I had a fall back.
Now the story gets bizarre. Dr. Alasdair and Mags from Carnoustie arrived in town today with two other couples. For a change, I didn’t have to feed all of Carnoustie. I managed to have them check Bonaparte, the match was on. As expected, Manchester City – thrashed – Arsenal, or so Sky News would later describe.
Bonaparte was a – pub – selling Guinness, but without try to be a – Plastic Paddy – outfit. Nay flags, interesting wall adornments instead. Just like every pub back home, as foreigners see it.
Born in the IPA (Musa, Lisboa, Portugal) has been had oft, even at source. A 6.5% IPA, it is a darker gold and has a refreshing Citrus flavour, West Coast in style, but not extreme. Dr. Alasdair was drinking Paulaner Weizen (München, Bayern), his friends, the local Super Bock.
There was a degree of catching up, it is some two weeks since Marg and I were in Carnoustie. It was only then we realised that there was an overlap in our schedules. Cool dudes are in Porto in April.
The Five Doctors and Mags were fetched by an Uber, Steve was for calling it a night, then a G&T appeared. Still hoping for some more – real Bier – I suggested we walk up to Baobab with Alvares Taproom as a fallback. Baobab was open, staffed by Suzy alone, Alvares was shut. The lights were on at Baixada, but of course, the door was locked, despite the TV being still on and nobody at home.
The night cap was a Coconut Maple Imperial Stout – Coconuts (Lerwig, Norge) at 12.5%. This was everything it claimed to be. I showed Suzy the page I had already posted on Bier-Traveller, she was well pleased, and why not? One can tell that Baobab is going to become an institution in Porto.
No fireworks tonight, just the short walk downhill to São Bento. Tomorrow:
Lisboa – 2023 – Another Seven Days – April – May
The Brew Pubs, Taprooms and Bars visited:
Alvares Brewery Taproom – Rua do Almada 383, 4000-303 Porto
Baobab – Craft Beer Bar – Rua do Almada 377, 4000-303 Porto
A Fábrica da Picaria Cervejaria artisanal – Rua da Picaria 72, 4050-477 Porto
Cask Beer – Rua da Armenia 54, 4050-066 Porto
Letraria Porto – Rua da Alegria 101, 4000-042 Porto
Gulden Draak Bierhuis Porto – R. de José Falcão N. 82, 4050-315 Porto
Bonaparte Downtown – Praça Guilherme Gomes Fernandes 40, 4050-150 Porto
Beira Douro – Av. De Diogo Leite 242, 4430-999 Villa Nova de Gaia
A recommended restaurant
Lagostim – Praca D. Filips de Lencastre 200, 4050-260 Porto