Thursday, April 27
Marg, Hector, and even Steve, David and Alison were in Lisboa last year, nothing blogged. This year the Hector is determined to update the hard work put in for the first trip here in 2020, weeks before the plague. 21 Gallas has been by far the best source of Bier in Lisboa, quality NEIPAs guaranteed. It was only after booking the full week here that I discovered that 21 Gallas was no more. Why, I was determined to find out. There are new venues to visit, and Outro Lado, the new kid on the block, also impressed last year. Then there’s Curry, last year I just scratched the surface of Rua do Benformoso. This year, Hector intends to do damage.
A Birthday Trip – yet the anniversary is not until Sunday, the day of the Scottish Cup semi-final at Hampden Park. Hector in Lisbon for a birthday, on Sunday the twist, favourable or otherwise, shall be revealed.
The three hour trip south from Porto this afternoon was comfortable. As the Portuguese insist that all over 65s can travel for half price, and #1 is only €10.00 a ticket (gross) dearer, then why not travel in comfort? Despite the rolling stock bearing the largest carriage numbers ever, some still managed to be in the wrong one. So it goes.
Accommodation in Lisboa is appreciably dearer this year. Or maybe Hector has learned where not to stay and pays accordingly. Last year, I managed to book an apartment directly outside the castle entrance. The climb home each evening was initially a killer, before we found shortcuts and elevators. This year, only a three minute walk up a slope from the main avenue – Avenida da Liberdade. An apartment famed for its secluded outside area and its fold-down bed.
The first pit-stop today was at Letraria da Anunciada, a pleasant place to stop and acclimatise in the shade to the extra few degrees Centigrade that Lisboa has over Porto. 32ºC, this is why we were here! Letraria, a few blocks from our apartment and opposite the funicular – Elevador do Lavra.
Letraria is a name well known to Hector given the number of visits to this Braga Brewery’s outlet in Porto. The terrace looked attractive, we took a corner table.
The waitress did not appear happy that soft drinks was all we required. A lukewarm bottle of Sparkling Water was brought, not much use today. I asked for ice, I may as well have asked for the moon. Eight years of retirement, occasionally, the schoolteacher voice emerges, Marg accused me of barking. The ice came, promptly.
Knowing that Lord Clive and Lady Maggie’s accommodation was adjacent to a funicular, I contacted them to verify their address. Theirs was across the valley bottom at Restauradores, fine, the remainder of the reply shocked. They had landed already, and I was led to believe they were coming tomorrow.
There was no water in the fountains at Praça dos Restauradores, still, there was the ritual photographs to be taken, similarly at the waterfront – Cais das Colunas. En route we passed the most famous lift in Lisboa – Elevador de Santa Justa, the queues were as long as ever. However, Hector draws the reader’s attention to the most useful means of gaining height on the west side of Lisboa from down-town – Baixa-Chiado. Through the archway entrance to the Metro lies a series of escalators, well try them for yourself, see where you end up.
With plenty of time before our unexpected rendezvous, Marg and Hector walked along the waterfront to Caix do Sodre. Here lies the ferry terminal for Cacilhas (Almada), and the train station for some western bound services.
More bunkers were required, a brief stop off at a pavement cafe presented a unique photo opperchancity – Yo, Ladies! – that’s a Bier glass!
Ticketed for 24 hours, it’s the sensible thing to do in Lisboa, we jumped on a bus two stops east to Rua dos Arameiros. From there – Outro Lado Craft Beer – is but a short hop.
I was glad to see two worthy Biers on the board, one had to be a winner: Nelson Sauvin (Funky Fluid, Polska) at a sensible 6.6%. We have Lockdown to thank for this being – sensible.
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Whilst I was at the bar, Clive and Maggie arrived, timing. Without consultation, two more Biers ordered, and an Aperol Spritz for Marg. Who invented this, it’s disgusting!
So good was the Nelson Sauvin, I decided that Verge (Funky Fluid, Polska), an 8.0% – NEDIPA – could wait for another day.
Nelson Sauvin has become a favourite hop, this full on Hazy IPA totally hit the spot. There was more! With two staff, the service was a bit hit and miss. The chap appeared easily distracted. Still, I knew we would be back here over the course of the coming week, I have yet to find the Bier choices here to be a let-down. Another bonus, the sound system was not manned this evening, last year we had to tolerate electro nonsense.
And so we sat until it was declared time to eat. Rua dos Bacalhoeiros, the main street outside Outro Lado, has extensive seating outdoors. All restaurants appeared full, it was time for the Portuguese to dine. I led the party back to the main drag north of Cais das Colunas, here we picked a way over-priced Italian restaurant – La Vita è Bella. There are no photos of Hector’s Seafood Spaghetti, or the moment when – crunch – and an upper back tooth disintegrated on a prawn.
Afterwards, Cerveja Canil was the obvious venue, a couple of blocks north and east. A Brewpub, their own Bier has yet to hit the spot. I keep missing Milkshake-style IPAs, so they have told me in the past. Tonight, nothing different.
Born in the IPA (Musa, Lisboa) at 6.5%, I’ve had previously – at source, almost. Brothers in Arms (Vandoma, Porto) a 7.0% NEIPA with Sabro hops, was too thin to be a Milkshake, fruity, and did not merit a photo, evidently.
This left Canil’s own Imperial IPA at 9.0%. Definitely a good night Bier, the amber, slightly hazy offering had malt coming through. Drinkable, nothing special.
With the number of taps at Canil, they should be doing better.
Clive and Maggie were willing to walk home, however, being a first night in a strange city, we escorted them back to Baixa-Chiado where the Blue and Green Metro lines intersect. One stop home for them, two for Hector and Marg. The Kebap shop on our street was still open, that may be one for a future evening.
Venues visited today:
Letraria da Anunciada – Largo da Anunciada 1, 1250-048 Lisboa
Outro Lado Craft Beer – Beco do arco Escuro 1, 1100-585 Lisboa
La Vita è Bella – Rua da Prata 115, 1100-415, Lisboa
Cerveja Canil Baixa – Rua dos Douradores 133, 1100-204 Lisboa
Friday, April 28
Friday Prayers, not that the Hector is ever likely to attend, however, the number of times this coincides with Curry is uncanny. We arranged to meet Clive and Maggie at Martim Moniz Metro station, metres from Curry Heaven in Lisboa – Rua do Benformoso. Today, a new venue for Hector – Tasty Hut. Outstanding Curry as one has come to expect in this city, but having cocked up the portion size at the time of ordering, dinner would be required by us all later. What have the locals got against Henry?
Thereafter, Metro tickets were renewed for the next twenty-four hours, the plan (Plan A) was to do Tram 28, however, the queue was ridiculous, six trams worth possibly. How do the locals who actually depend on this ever get on? Ah, they take the bus, or the Metro, as did we, dropping down one stop to Baixa-Chiado – Plan B.
Here, we took advantage of the escalators inside the mountain, returning to the area Marg and Hector stayed in Visit #1. It is still a climb from here up to Biarro Alto where Steve and Louise stayed back in 2020.
Cervejaria Artesanal Adamstor, the Craft Beer House has gone, as has the wonderful O Adrianou do Carno restaurant. A bit early for Bier and we had just eaten. Hector led the party past Ascensor da Bica, the funicular, to the Adamstor statue and the viewpoint. Thanks to the heat haze, not much of a view today, Ponte 25 de Abril, the Golden Gate – replica – was hardly worth a photo.
Having walked all of ten minutes, it was time for a seat, and a drink. A table with a potential view was secured at Quiosque do Adamstor. For Hector, Cider usually follows Curry, so why not. Olive had the local Super Bock, the ladies behaved, for the time being.
La Cucaracha! Barata (Portuguese) does not have the same impact. Marg warned me of the offending bug approaching. The size eleven sandal took care of it. There was a loud cheer from the adjacent German table, Marg was horrified when there seemed no end to the prolonged wriggling.
Back on Calçada do Combro, the main street which runs along the southern end of Biarro Alto, we stood at the Tram 28 stop. From here the fun part of the journey east begins, a roller coaster journey back to Martim Moniz looping round the eastern side of the old town.
After a twenty-plus minute wait, we concluded that there was something wrong, no trams were appearing. Plan C – the descent on Ascensor da Bica which was closed last year. Our tickets were valid, those buying a single journey were ripped off.
Buy a 24 hour ticket!
At the foot of the hill, which we walked up too often in 2020 before discovering the escalators, lies Musa da Bica. As far as I can make out this was once a Brewpub for Musa in the north-east of the city, but evidently now just a Taproom.
Breweries make up some crazy names for their produce, NEIPALM Death wins a watch. At 6.1% not too much for a late afternoon Bier. The haze was not full on, short of a milkshake, there was a fruitiness behind the hops. Pleasant, but not enough to want to move in here.
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The young girls behind the bar were marvellous, providing an array of choices for Marg. They hoped we would return, who knows where we’ll end up in the coming days?
A five minute walk to Cais de Sodre through a park took us to the same bus stop as yesterday. Outro Lado later tonight, in the meantime, a return to Crafty Corner, a bit of a steep climb, but not a long one.
Some time after 2020, Crafty Corner moved from near Cais de Sodre to the eastern side of the old town. Last year, the Bier did not particularly impress. In 2020 we found excellent NEIPA/DIPA, last year nothing better than West Coast APA. Last year the staff were, well, quite indifferent, compared to 2020. Today’s visit was a continuation of 2022, no interaction.
The best Bier on offer was Marine IPA (Dois Corvos, Lisboa) at 5.4%. Gold in colour, almost clear, this was decidedly West Coast in terms of high IBU. No nasties, not demanding, was noted. Again, not enough to keep us here.
I did ask a staff member about disappearance of my favourite: 21 Gallas Brewpub, no information about their closure was forthcoming. Hector Holmes will get an answer, eventually. We stayed for another Bier, except Maggie switched to Brehndee. (sic). Here we go.
The ladies needed food, the chaps probably did too, but once the Bier is pouring…
Having turned right last night on reaching Rua dos Bacalhoeiros and finding all restaurants full, tonight Hector applied some Stats & Geography (after Hotelling) the normal distribution and turned left. An inside table was secured at Adega do Atum, a proper Portuguese restaurant. Hector had that well known Portuguese delicacy – Seafood Paella, and to prove consistency, Marg had a Tuna Salad.
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The restaurant was ready to close by the time we departed, amazing how the eastern periphery of this street of eating places is markedly different from the west.
Now for the main event. Tonight no messing, Hector would have the Verge (Funky Fluid, Polska) DIPA at 8.0%, but only after a sensible Nelson Sauvin (Funkly Fluid, Polska).
Verge was stunning, a full on milkshake, smooth as a … a choice of superb Biers in the required style. Outro Lado, a worthy successor to 21 Gallas, albeit not a brewery tap (*).
The venues visited today:
Musa da Bica – Calçada Salvador Correia de Sá 2A, 1200-399 Lisboa
Crafty Corner – R. de São João da Praça 95, 1100-519 Lisboa
Outro Lado Craft Beer – Beco do arco Escuro 1, 1100-585 Lisboa
Quiosque do Adamstor – Rua de Samata Catarina, 1200-109 Lisboa
Tasty Hut Halal food – Rua do Benformoso 151, 1100-084 Lisboa
Adega do Atum – Rua dos Bacalhoeiros 8c, 1100-070 Lisboa
Saturday, April 29
The eve of – The Birthday – today’s plan: to stay until after midnight. Before then, some unfinished business. Having what felt like – Tapas – yesterday at Tasty Hut, today it was time to have the full Bhuna. Whilst Curry photos don’t usually appear in these pages, one photo does capture the mood.
Mosteiro dos Jerónimos at Belém was the objective thereafter. In 2020, we saw the exterior. Then it was not known that – Vasco da Gama – is interred therein. The Belém navigator’s monument – Padrão dos Descobrimentos – would no doubt be celebrated again.
Last night, Clive and Maggie said they would do the bus tour of Lisboa. They didn’t and so would join us. I arranged to meet at a cafe in the park which we walked through last night at Cais do Sodre @15.30. This proved to be too big a test, around a half hour was lost trying to locate them even though at one point they were three metres away, inside (?) the train station. We need a proximity alarm.
Normally the modern tram would take us from Cais das Colunas to Belém, however, the line in the city centre has been ripped up. Cais do Sodre is therefore the present terminus. We headed west, under – Ponte 25 de Abril – which bears an uncanny resemblance to – The Golden Gate Bridge.
Arriving at Belém, the primary mission was still to visit Mosteiro dos Jerónimos and pay homage to Vasco da Gama, the man who IMHO facilitated the creation of what we now call – Curry. Alas, with a 17.00 closing time, and the queue still out the door, nae chance. Next time, an early morning pre-booked ticket
As with Visit #1, we walked along the waterfront, taking photos as and when the gaps in the crowd permitted. The monument to the navigators remains impressive, and our travel companions finally appreciated a photo canvas in Hector’s House.
Some were hungry, Hector less so. Having stopped at Portugália Cervejaria last time, why not return?
For Hector, a Starter, Prawn in Garlic. Can the Hector have enough seafood? Marg went overboard. In the midst of ordering a glass of Mateus Rosé, she ended up with the bottle, to herself. She may have received assistance in time. I cannot believe I did not take photos of the live lobsters, next time.
At the end of the tram ride back, instead of going to the centrum, Hector led the troops to LoveCraft Gastropub, a few doors west of Musa da Bica where the queue for the funicular was outrageous. LoveCraft is a Portuguese – gipsy – brewery.
A – Gastropub – in other words it served Burgers. I have reached the stage where Burgers and/or Pizza is the food of the last resort. Is this what the masses are destined to eat forever? Throw in some Spicy Chicken Wings and the Hector may be tempted. Maybe the conservative food was a reflection of the Bier choice also. With ten taps representing a range of Bier for different nations, plus a fridge with T.E.A. – Traditional English Ale, in theory, something for everyone. This – one – as ever was hoping for NEIPA but had to settle for West Coast. I was surprised when this turned into a two Bier stop.
Bah! Cascais (Bah Craft Beer, Portugal) is a 6.0% APA. At 50 IBU, it was gold, clear, dry, and not exciting in any way. Importantly no nasties were tasted.
This was followed by LoveCraft’s own Lupina, another APA, this time a more Amber-Gold at 6.4%. An IBU of 21 was reported, it tasted much higher, drier as West Coast APAs tend to be.
Fed, watered, it was back on the bus along the front, Outro Lado was calling once more, as was more Verge by Funky Fluid (Polska).
However, there was a surprise waiting, a NEDIPA at 8.4% , IVY from Xül Beer Co. (Tennessee, USA) featuring Citra and Citra Cryo hops. This was as smooth as a … a sublime Bier.
What finer way to bring in one’s birthday?
Why was the Hector feeling so nervous?
The Bars and Restaurants visited today:
LoveCraft Gastropub – Lisboa – Rua da Boavista 28, 1200-067 Lisboa
Portugália Cervejaria – Edificio Espelho d’Agua, avenida Brasilai S/N, 1400-038
Outro Lado Craft Beer – Beco do arco Escuro 1, 1100-585 Lisboa
Tasty Hut Halal food – Rua do Benformoso 151, 1100-084 Lisboa
Sunday, April 30
The birthday card from Marg was appropriate as always. However, for once, there was to be no Curry-Heute. My intended venue is closed on Sundays. Hector’s 67th birthday in Lisbon and there’s an Old Firm Scottish Cup semi-final kicking off at 13.30. Which of the gods arranged this?
We needed a Sports Bar, The George had a good royal, British name, but check the address below. Clive and Maggie had secured a table and were arranging lunch. Hector had no appetite. With a Ginger Beer and a decent view, all was going well. Then we were informed that due to satellite box limitations, our TV would be switched over to a lesser match involving English teams on the half hour mark.
We left, gained altitude with the nearby Baixo-Chiado escalators, and tracked down Cervejaria Do Bairro which was empty. The match was arranged, meanwhile Rangers’ inept defending once again saw a goal lost on the 42nd minute mark. Game over. Happy Birthday, not.
We had the run of the place until some English chaps came in for their game. Cervejaria – but no Craft Beer. There was draught Cider, but Hector had not just had Curry. A typical pub as Europeans see it. At least I had avoided an Irish Bar.
We have never been up this particular part of the hill, i.e. the slope that is Bairro Alto. Fado music is reported here Traditional nightlife we have yet to do in Lisboa. There are some interesting eating places to be explored.
Walking back down to Luis de Camões, the square adjacent to Largo do Chiado, the top end of the, almost secret, Baixo-Chiado metro entrance, Hector’s Horrible Holiday resumed. It was time for Tram 28.
Standing room only, we did the roller-coaster ride down-town, round the east side of Alfama, the old town, alighting at Martim Moniz, the terminus. Having already passed the viewpoint at Miradouro de Santa Luzia, we retraced our journey by taking the near empty castle bus (737 – Castelo) from Praça Figueira back up the hill, smart move.
Today, a blue sky and no haze. Marg gave me into trouble for barking at a couple with a wean who appeared to be taking root at the obvious spot from which to take photos.
Are you going to stand there all day?
I was still not a Happy Hector.
Despite the throng, we managed a tram back down to the centrum. On the south side of Praça Figueira lies Marg’s favourite coffee and cake shop – Confeitaria Nacional. There was cake for the Hector. Fitting.
Maggie needed shoes, just like that. Actually, she had been slipping with her inadequate footwear for days. Bad planning. This interrupted the next trek up flights of steps and another slope, of course, to – The Queen Ale – Craft Beer Bar. What a royal day it could have been.
Two chaps were behind the bar, no other customers, it was but late afternoon. Friends of staff did join them at adjacent tables once we were settled. This was a two Bier stop.
First up, a Spanish NEIPA appropriately named Smooth (Peninsula, Espana) at 7.2%. With a decent milkshake haze, this lived up to its name. The hops were quite pronounced: Verdant, Elaborado con Bru-1, El Dorado and Talus. The latter was not an issue.
Despite having tasters of the Lush Yield (The Drowned Lands, New York, USA), a 6.5% NEIPA it was initially declined due to the aftertaste. Somehow, after the Smooth, the palate had adjusted, and why not? Simcoe, Citra and New Zealand Cascade were the hops.
The Queen Ale looks like a place to keep an eye on. If today was typical, then they have Bier – in-the-style. There was an interesting fridge also, but who wants this Scottish brewed Irn Bru in a Bier? Had we stayed longer, then hopefully we would have had more interaction with the staff. There will be a next time.
Time for food, a Birthday dinner. I led the peeps down to the west and a street Marg and Hector have walked oft, but only ever stopped for ice-cream. Rua das Portas de Santo Antão runs parallel to Avenue da Liberdade, lots of traditional Portuguese restaurants line the street.
We chose Inhaca, a table outside with space such that those who pollute would not be right up against us. Our first alfresco meal of this trip. It was time for Hector to have Catapla- na. My fellow diners wimped out. A bottle of Mateus Rosé had to be also, this time Marg shared more.
Our waiter brought a jar of something – red and Spicy – as we were finishing the Bread and Olives.
Clive took but a Soupçon, the Hector liberally covered his roll. Never, have I put something this – hot – in my mouth. Bloody hell! I knew that grabbing liquid was the worst possible thing to do, grin and bear it, let it subside, eventually it will pass. In time, recovery, and a glass of wine. Time to use the facilities, and this time I did take a photo of the lobster. Had I just experienced what he was about to?
The mains were being presented, the Birthday Boy’s came last.
Is that it?
Hector had been set up.
Fear not, the Cataplana soon arrived. Never have I eaten so much crab and lobster, as well as the fish. A wonderful meal, including the wind up. Having written these words, it is mandatory that we shall return to Inhaca, this is how Marg and Hector operate.
Being Sunday, Outro Lado was reportedly closed, strange. But always check when feet are on the ground. We had yet to visit Duque Brewpub on this trip. We headed up the stairs behind Rossio-Lisboa train station, quite a climb. No heart attacks.
Hector arrived many minutes before the cohort, the best Bier on offer was ordered, plus Sparkling Water for Marg, confirmed by phone.
I asked the girl behind the bar if she knew anything of 21 Gallas. A result! On showing my dedicated page, it turned out the girl in that photo was a relative. The brewer has gone back to Brasil which may explain why locally brewed NEIPA is in short supply this trip.
Iparactivo (Duque, Lisboa) is a 6.5% West Coast IPA. Once the palate had adjusted to the higher IBU, the fruitiness came across. As good a Bier as I have had at Duque, the source.
There was more, guess who was last out? For whatever reason, the staff had to close up, plastic was provided so that we could finish outside. In trying to get the photo sorted, the plastic was dropped. Fear not, the Bier was replenished. Clive was well impressed by Duque, despite the long climb up. There has to be an easier approach.
Back on the Metro, two stops home. The hill up to our apartment suddenly felt like but a mound.
The Brewpub, bars and restaurants visited today:
The George – Rua do Crucifixo 58 66, 1100-184 Lisboa
Cervejaria Do Bairro – Rua das Gáveas 97, 1200-287 Lisboa
Confeitaria Nacional – Praça da Figueira, Praça Dom Pedro IV 18B, 1100-241 Lisboa
The Queen Ale – Craft Beer Bar – Largo do Tab. 9, 1150-344 Lisboa
Inhaca Restaurant – Rua das Portas de Santo Antão 8, 1150 Lisboa
Duque Brewpub – Calçada do Duque 51, 1200-156 Lisboa
Monday, May 1
We had guests for brunch! Clive and Maggie made their way up, what now feels like a small incline, to our accommodation which features a huge private yard at the rear. Thereafter, it was back on the Metro to Cais do Sodré and the ferry across to Cacilhas (Almada). I like this ferry crossing, it’s short.
At the halfway point, Hector secured a decent photo of Ponte 25 de Abril. On arrival, the submarine was the big attraction.
We were about to negotiate a discounted pensioner entry when I spotted another sign, ah well. Next time.
On our first visit to Cacilhas, Marg and Hector famously shared our first mammoth Fish Stew, so last night. Today, light refreshments sufficed. There was an attempt to have snack at a cafe near the ferry, however, never have I met such incompetent staff. Pointing and grunting is kind of old hat. A young chap was sent out to communicate, I doubt if he understood Portuguese never mind English. Cognitively challenged – as they say in this age of sensitivity.
At our pit-stops, the Hector was busy planning a trip to Óbidos, preferably for tomorrow. Somewhat surprisingly, a tour company did come straight back to me confirming availability. However, the more research that was done, it became obvious – take the service bus.
Back on the mainland, time to revisit a potentially excellent Craft Beer House. In 2020, Sputnik sold Bier by 21 Gallas which was just up the hill behind it. This time, another Lisboa brewery would provide the closest to the Hector idyll.
Weekend (Dois Corvos, Lisboa) at 6.5%, ia Hazy IPA, confused. The first Bier out did not impress, thin for the abv and not particularly hazy, the second was way better. With Citra, El Dorado, and Mosaic, more of a tangerine dream than a true NEIPA.
Rua do Benformoso is just a couple of blocks south of Sputnik, time for an evening Curry. Tonight, Hector chose Radhuni. More wonderful Curry, though I believe Marg and Hector ate each other’s.
Thereafter, the short walk down to Martim Moniz, it’s as if Hector has a master-plan for each day, and behold, Tram 28 was quiet. This was the long way round to Brewery Tap – 8a Colina, the scenic route. Arriving at sunset, there was the opperchancity to experiment with the Oppo. Some decent results.
Marg wanted coffee, the surly chap would only supply espresso, declined.
The board was not that exciting, once again it was Urraca Vendaval, a 6.0% IPA in the West Coast style. I’ve this a few times, it is fine. It was of course, the first Bier of this trip!
With the knowledge that better Bier was available down the hill, it was back on Tram 28, in the same direction of travel, alighting just above Outro Lado. More Polish NEIPA, at least we know it’s always on. Tonight, we managed a seat in the raised seating area.
A long day, a bigger one tomorrow, an early night.
The brewery taps and restaurant visited today:
Sputnik Craft Beer – Rua Andrade 41A, 1170-014 Lisboa
8a Graça (Oitava Colina) – Rua Damasceno Monteiro 8A, 1170-112 Lisboa
Outro Lado – Beco do Arco EsSputnik Craft Beer – Rua Andrade 41A, 1170-014 Lisboacuro 1, 1100-585 Lisboa
Radhuni – Rua do Benformoso 155 A B, 1100-084 Lisboa
Tuesday, May 2
It was – Dan the Man – our guide on the Canyonlands school trip of 2010, who first made Hector aware of the mediaeval town – Óbidos. But how to get there? Four people on an organised tour was throwing away money. Train was a possibility, too slow and infrequent. The – Rapida Verde – coach service from the main bus station could be the way.
We arranged to meet Clive and Maggie at Telheiras, the northern end of the green Metro line. Today turned out to be the first days of major works on this line. Trains had halved in size and were stopping short at Campo Grande.
The bus station was easy to locate, but clearly this was for local service buses. Marg was set to approach the portakabin ticket office, the Hector found a map showing the coach station nearby. En route we picked up Clive and Maggie.
As is the norm, it was the Hector who found the correct bus stand and in a few minutes the timeous coach sped north towards Óbidos.
A modest fare, a quicker journey, all was well. The money we saved by taking this route as opposed to an organised trip would cover the cost of lunch. The only concern: what if all of Óbidos want to come back to Lisboa at the same time as us?
Arriving at Óbidos, there was an appropriate wow! Here was a classic walled town on a raised ground, surveying all. A games fair was being set up, hence the electric sign being lowered adjacent to the gateway, and a bubble-like construction being erected in the town square.
Having stopped to appreciate the internal artwork in the gateway and the ethereal music, it was a case of take the high road or the low. Research en route had revealed a better choice of eating places on Josefa, and so we found ourselves dining alfresco at XII Apóstolos. Cash only.
Many of the buildings in Óbidos are painted light blue and white, there was a feeling of being in Hellas. Photo opperchancities were aplenty, however, there was a limit to how much of the interior of Óbidos we could visit.
A hotel, which I understand cater for golfers, occupies the far end of the town. One assumes another entrance. The exit in the wall, on the railway side of the town, created a funnel for the breeze turning it into quite a pleasant blast. This phenomenon I shared with passers by, some who were wilting in the heat.
This unfortunately included Maggie who soon headed off with Clive in search of shade. They took refuge at Petrarum Domus Bar where cold, yellow, fizzy lager was served. Quite a place, we had it to ourselves. If one was here of an evening, this could well be the place – to dine.
The 16.15 bus back to Lisboa was the obvious one to take, Thereafter, there’s a two our gap in the timetable. If the bus was full, a train around 20.00 was an option. However, the Hector had a fallback which included a taxi to Caldas da Rainha, from where the subsequent bus would depart.
Despite the small crowd that had gathered, we were easily accommodated on the coach.
Back in Lisboa, the disruption to the Metro meant journeying three sides of the square to reach the Mean Sardine Taproom. Alighting at Campo Pequeno (yellow line), we found ourselves in the bowels of a shopping centre – Baia do Peixe. Dead reckoning towards the north-east was all I had to go on. Eventually, we emerged into daylight, and across an open piece of ground lay this previously unvisited venue.
With twelve taps and a choice of NEIPA, so far so good. Suprassumo (5.0%) was not on. The staff weren’t bothered. There was no word of it returning, complete indifference. We were left with the other 5.0% NEIPA – Triton whose efficacy I have to challenge. With only the slightest haze, this was far too sharp tasting, the wrong mouthfeel. Nelson Sauvin hops were allegedly featured, so where was the hop hit?
Moving on was the obvious move, however, it was – Happy Hour – buy one get one free! We had to stay for the second. The ladies required food. Burger and fries, the usual pub fayre, though the Dessert looked more interesting.
Disregarding the somewhat minimalist décor, Mean Sardine Taproom is a spacious venue, a place one could be happy to spend an evening. But if they cannot change a Bier…
I let Clive and Maggie choose our next and final venue for the evening. Surprisingly, Crafty Corner was chosen, back for more Urraca IPA (8a Colina, Lisboa). Having had Urraca here and at source, maybe we were becoming accustomed to this APA. Tonight’s visit turned out to be a breakthrough.
Finally, there was a sense of recognition, we were not just tourists passing through. Patrick, Mein Host, engaged, we discussed the original venue and the move west. The good news, NEIPAs do make an appearance here. Given the proximity to Outro Lado, this means Crafty Corner will always be visited. The challenge – keep us here for the night.
The brewery tap, bars and restaurant visited today:
XII Apóstolos – R. Josefa de Óbidos 7, 2510-077 Óbidos
Petrarum Domus Bar – R. Direita 38, 2510-039 Óbidos
Mean Sardine Taproom – Campo Pequeno 41A, 1000-080 Lisboa
Crafty Corner – Rua. de São João da Praça 95, 1100-519 Lisboa
Wednesday, May 3
The final day of this trip began with some blogging whilst Marg was out for her daily exercises. The hills of Lisboa have certainly made us all fitter. According to a well known and reliable Curry Blog, we arrived at Radhuni at 12.30, the mission was to solve the mystery: did Marg and I eat each other’s Curry two nights back?
Thereafter it was a short walk north of Rua do Benformoso to a coffee shop that appeared worthy. Malabarista Café may have been simple in décor, but delivered. Such is our way, this venue could well be revisited on a future Lisboa trip.
Sensing that our fellow travellers could be melting, we arranged to meet for ice-cream at 15.00. Being Mr. Garrett’s birthday, where better than Amorino Lisboa Garrett? This involved a walk up the hill behind Baixa-Chiado, logically, it was downhill on the way back. In fact, we managed to avoid any serious hills thereafter. It’s almost as though someone knew what they were doing.
I don’t often get the chance to rave about hot melted Chocolate. I understand that this is how Chocolate was first consumed, by the elite who could afford it, before the fondant and Chocolate bar was invented. Yes, I have been to a Belgian Chocolate Museum, one has to keep Marg amused in the afternoons.
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Bier o’clock
The Beer Station had yet to be visited on this trip. Usually they have APA, not NEIPA, but one never knows.
As expected, the tap Bier was not setting the heather on fire, Tasters dismissed. The young lady serving produced a can: Captao Leitao (Dois Corvos, Lisboa), an Oat Cream NEIPA at 6.0%. With the full milkshake haze and full of Strata, Idaho 7 and Citra hops, there was a slight fruitiness, but it certainly did the job.
Having visited the Dois Corvos brewery taproom on our first visit to Lisboa, it was regarded as a bit of a hike, buses required. Why is it that only at the time of writing do I discover – Dois Corvos Intendente Taproom in downtown Lisboa? It’s en route to Sputnik Craft Beer, we must have walked past it!
Our day suddenly got a whole lot better. The charming lady produced another can, this time a collaboration: Slava Ukraini! (Ophiussa, Setabul, Portugal / The Bad Beaver, Kyiv, Ukraine). At 8.0%, this DDH DIPA had it all! The full milkshake haze was a result of Nelson Sauvin, Sabro, and Citra. And no, the Sabro was not in our faces, but was suitably subdued. This was a glorious Bier!
Logic suggests we should have stayed put, but not with the ladies in tow – we need food!
It was a short hop from Rossio back across to the cluster of restaurants east of Restauradores. Restaurante A Lota was our chosen venue for the last supper, more alfresco dining.
Eurofizz for the chaps, Maggie sneaked in a cocktail. Wot, no Mateus Rosé? The Hector was determined to finish the trip with another Big Pot, this time – Arroz no Tacho – Salmon & Prawns, a BIG it certainly was. We ate well, as is illustrated.
Knowing we would certainly need transport to the airport, the 24 hour ticket was renewed, and for the final time, we headed round to Terreiro do Paço and Outro Lado.
You think you know a place having been most nights, I was not prepared for our final evening in Lisboa. Tonight, no Polish NEIPA, instead I studied the fridge. The top British brewers usually feature, Track (Manchester, England) being typical. Slava Ukraini! – was easy to spot, but that’s not where I started. Mein Host, Abdo, was now familiar, he suggested I try one of their own. Outro Lado now brew? They do, mostly strong Stouts/Porters as the board shows. These I had not paid attention to and so had not made the connection. Abdo produced a can.
Opheodrys (Aguarela-Outro Lado, Lisboa) – NZ DIPA / NEDIPA, full of Nelson Sauvin and 8.0%! This was quite a demanding Bier, nothing nasty, just full on. If this is the future of Outro Lado, then we have an added dimension to visiting what is the finest bar in Lisboa.
With the airport in mind, this was not a late night, however, there had to be time for more cans: Slava Ukraini!
The brewery tap, bar, cafes and restaurants visited today:
The Beer Station – Largo duque de Cadaval 17 Quiosque D, 1200-160 Lisboa
Outro Lado – Beco do Arco Escuro 1, 1100-585 Lisboa
Malabarista Café – Specialty Coffee – R. Maria 66B, 1170-213 Lisboa,
Amorino Lisboa Garrett – Rua Garrett 49, 1200-203 Lisboa, Portugal
Restaurante A Lota – : Rua do Jardim do Regedor 15, 1150-193 Lisboa
Radhuni – Rua do Benformoso 155 A B, 1100-084 Lisboa