Athena 2023 – The First Two Days

The annual trip to Athena, forms part of this year’s main – summer – trip, albeit in the autumn. It is approaching a decade since the last Athena Blog posted in Bier-Traveller, these days I tend to add more information in the drop down links at the top of the page. However, Curry-Heute has covered every trip, hopefully an earthquake and Covid lie behind us. This year it’s thunderstorms, the forecast for Hellas is horrible. We shall see.

Tuesday, September 26

Hector and Marg were up at 03.00 for our dawn flight from Edinburgh. Always Edinburgh, yet Glasgow is the centre of Scotland’s population. Lord Clive and Lady Maggie of Crawley took an even earlier flight to Athena this morning.

Arriving punctually around 13.00. The long walk to passport control was as expected, at least the post-Brexit queues were not a feature of this arrival, try getting through passport control in Köln, Porto and Lisboa these days in less than an hour.

The Metro took us to Monastiraki, our accommodation for the first two days was opposite Little Cook, a much decorated cafe at the southern edge of Psiri and a major attraction for children of all ages. Hector will admit to having enjoyed the ice-cream here.

Attic room – was how our accommodation was described, more like – rooftop. Bijou – would be another suitable description. For two nights, fine.

The view over Plaka to the Acropolis from the rooftop bar at Hotel A for Athens has become a popular spot over the years, especially late afternoon when the colours turn to richness. I texted Maggie to inform her of our intention to be there by 16.00, a message not picked up for some forty five minutes.

The rays from the sun were strong, the view was as satisfying as ever, perhaps more-so today since rain was forecast, is forecast, will be forecast, and is determined to follow the Hector everywhere he goes this year.

Bier o’clock, the staff thought otherwise. Anywhere else, we would have walked. Take in the view, take some photos. Eventually service, of sorts. The Bier list was poor, over-priced small bottles. That my first Bier of this trip was Budvar (Czechia) felt strange. Marg had Sparkling Water, she wanted a snack, not possible. The issued menu was due to change in ten minutes, if Marg wanted food, she would have to go downstairs to the restaurant. I texted both Clive and Maggie, relocation.

Beer Time is the only bar mentioned in my last Athena Blog posting that remains relevant. They have a Happy Hour daily at 16.00, two for one on draught Bier.

We took our seats at an outside table on Iroon Square, the heart of Psiri, the locus of every Athena visit in recent times, Plaka no more. Elena has long gone from Beer Time, yet we have met her every year. George was not on duty today, not well, no news on Thanasis, Mein Host. The new waitress was suitably welcoming. We were too early for Chara in the kitchen.

Septem 8^th Day Mera – (Euboea, Hellas) featuring Citra, Mosaic and Simcoe hops, became my favourite Greek Bier some time back. A 7.0% West Coast style IPA at 7.0% with 65 IBU, a dry and surprisingly fruity Craft Beer as one can encounter, is a contemporary of Rowing Jack (AleBrowar, Polska). This has been the must have Happy Hour Bier at Beer Time for many years despite the palate now preferring New England IPAs. Septem 8 was gone from the list.

The most enticing Bier was Septem’s Lager-Blond at 4.5%. It was still hot enough to justify a Big Yellow Bier, especially after the meagre bottle in the previous half hour.

Clive phoned to inform us that due to the distance across Athena still to be travelled, they would miss the end of Happy Hour, could I order on their behalf. As George himself would have done, the waitress assured me that for us, Happy Hour would be extended.

Clive and Maggie have moved house since I last saw then in Crawley, two weeks ago. Updates out of the way, it was, well – Beer Time. I’m told my room is the only one in the new ‘ouse which is ready.

Shots were provided as we departed, we are known here.

It was only last year that Marg and Hector realised that restaurant The Rebetadiko of Psiri on the edge of Iroon Square has a huge garden to the rear. Hector led the way. A few paces later I asked the chap out front about the garden.

It’s closed, the rain is coming.

In fact, the restaurant was closed, we found ourselves being taken into the next door restaurant – Grillhouse Arachova.

Grill Houses, don’t start me. Have the Greeks lost the ability to cook? I ended up with a substantial Meze Grill, OK, it was for two and Marg was willing to share. Great value for what we had and impossible to finish as a Meze should be.

There was cold, yellow, fizzy Bier, served in an iced glass, what’s not to like? Clive had Feta with extra Feta, Maggie had the fish.

Suitably replete, we walked eastwards, across Athenas and into the back streets to find to Tales of Ales.

We hadn’t seen Agis, Mein co-Host, for some time, hugs all round. At least tonight the music would be better. Led Zeppelin trumps Northern Soul, always IMHO. Agis also appreciates Prog Rock and acknowledged that Marg and I are due to see Riverside (Polska) supported by a local band – Mother of Millions here in Athena next week.

The board of ten taps had three – in the style – plus Cantillon (Belgium) Kriek. Citra Crush (Seven Island, Hellas) at 6.5% has graced these pages previously. First encountered at Tapfield, it was the first Greek NEIPA to tick all the boxes. This evening it felt a bit rough on the palate, this is what happens when one has a diet of Verdant/Track/Overtone at home.

Maggie opted for Dr. Haze (Strange Brew, Hellas) at 8.0%. No holding back the lady. It was at the Strange Brew taproom where pre-Covid, she – discovered – what the milkshake craze was all about. There’s no stopping her now. How can a NEIPA possibly have a 80 IBU? Clive played safe and stuck with Magania – West Coast – until the evening reached a decisive moment.

One of the customers recognised me from previous visits, he insisted I try King Sue (Toppling Goliath, USA) an 8.0% DDH. Kyriakos, Agis’ assistant, provided a taster, all aboard. Only Citra was reported in this excellent Bier. Smooth on the palate, no nasty aftertastes, this had it all. Well, maybe not a Session Bier for the majority.

Meanwhile, Marg was having Pink Grapefruit, finally, something at Tales of Ales to her liking. Soft drinks have been lacking here over the years. I did ask Kostas last week to ensure that he had something to amuse Marg else we couldn’t stay as long as desired.

The ladies were fading, the early rise taking its toll. What will be the excuse tomorrow night? Clive and Maggie took a €12.00 taxi home, the Hector escorted Marg back to our temporary attic room, time for Tapfield.

Miltos was as exuberant as ever. It’s fair to say that he greets everyone with enthusiasm, and is not afraid of going OTT with those he knows. The board did not match the quality at Tales of Ales, the two in the style were lower in abv, starters, by this time more was hoped for.

The triple collaboration: Kids of the Blackhole (Noctua, Alea Metamorfisi, Black Hole, Hellas) at 5.0% is a NE Pale Ale. That it took three brewers to create this suggested too many cooks. With Sabro reported but not noticed, it was surprisingly Dry, an OK session Bier. Small Bier here, time to move on.

Take Your Time “Persephone” (Main Squeeze Brewing, Athena, Hellas) a 5.2% Juicy IPA, was yellow, hazy, thin but with a hop hit. A better Bier. Miltos was drinking CANs, a taster came my way, tomorrow. He usually has a few DIPAs tucked away, pricey though.

Having justified the visit, it was time to take the long walk home, three minutes at most, including the stairs. It was a long day’s night.

At 02.00 the thunder and lightning arrived. Four hours of continuous flashing and crashing. We stood on the parapet outside the room, would the streets of Monastiraki be a river in the morning as they were a couple of weeks back?

Wednesday, September 27

Marg likes to rise early and go for a run/walk depending on circumstances. This may involve a stop-off for breakfast. In Psiri, around Iroon Square, there are plenty of morning venues to choose from, I am told. Importantly, when the rain stopped around 06.00, the street s started to dry up. With rain still forecast for the coming days, there would be no going out with out a brolly.

By the time the Hector was ready to get the day underway, Curry-Heute was calling. Today marked the fifth visit to Punjabi Tikka, always a landmark number in the sister Blog.

Having drifted off the northern edge of Psiri, we were nearer Omonia. A day ticket was purchased, two stops to Larissa Station where we bought return tickets to Chalkida/Chalcis on Eoboea/Evia. Everywhere in Hellas/Greece appears to have at least two names. From there we sped east on the Metro to Panormou. A few blocks up the hill lies Lab, a favourite afternoon pit-stop. With the inside seating somewhat restricted today, we had to go out to the covered area. The large table was designated as non-smoking, the rest, well, as it was for years, and the usual disregard..

With a list of new Bier places to try, it was a matter of where next.

I sent Maggie a screenshot for the location of Padre Craft Beer Taproom – Athens, with the advice that we should be there by 16.30. Google had it open earlier, however, found photos suggested a 16.00 opening.

Bus 36 was scheduled to take us almost to the door. It was like being back in Glasgow, multiples of every other route appeared, not the 36. A half hour wait, by which time Clive and Maggie had reached Padre and ascertained a lack of Bier choice. The delivery had not come. Sensibly, they had a Bier whilst they waited, at a table outside, as we would discover. Our small bus emptied en route. By the time we reached our stop, we were down to three passengers. A strange little bus is the 36.

Nicholas, Mein Host, was most welcoming. There was a choice of four, Clive and Maggie were well into Fermi Paradox (Alea, Metamorfisi,Attica, Hellas), a 7.0% NEIPA. With the full milkshake haze, this was wonderfully dry, a definite winner. There was more, the ladies wandered off for a coffee break.

Bus 35 would take us back to Psiri, it passed regularly whilst we sat outside Padre. Then it stopped, Google showed a re-route. The ladies returned from their coffee break and reported riot police up the street. Marg and Hector have previously been caught up in an Athena riot.

Nicholas was able to tell us that there was to be a demonstration. The locals did not want to lose their square – Plateia Exarcheoin – to a Metro station entrance. This area, to the north east of Omonia, could do with a metro link.

The rain was overdue. Umbrellas out. The blue dot was playing up. We walked towards the riot police, about turn, down the hill to the main road from where any bus would take us south towards Monastiraki.

At Tales of Ales, it was Kostas’ turn to embrace all. Kostas and his lady, Clive, Maggie and Hector had Bier together in August at Howling Hops (Hackney Wick) such is the level of familiarity.

In terms of Bier, it was straight into the Dr. Haze (Strange Brew) with a build up to King Sue (Toppling Goliath).

Kostas took a break during our visit so we were not subjected to his taste in music which is poles apart from Hector’s, and Agis’ also. Northern Soul, music for morons.

Mouses Restaurant lies beside the green Metro line between Monastiraki and Thissio. The Acropolis hangs above in the night sky. This restaurant has been visited oft, it actually serves Greek food, the real stuff, not the endless souvla/grill which dominate the land. There is also live music and Mythos on tap.

22.00 is not that late for dining in Hellas, yet Hector’s first choice was no more. I was persuaded to have another classic alternative. Nope, the last portion had just gone. Kleftiko is an all time favourite. I discussed my Kelftiko experience at a restaurant around the corner a few years back. I am wary of ordering this, too many fakes. I was assured all would be kosher.

Served in a clay pot, this was different. There was no wrapping, the Lamb sat atop wedges of baked Potato. As with any Curry, there was a quick Meat count. I didn’t get far.

What am I paying for? – I asked the waiter. There’s hardly any Meat here, this is mostly Potato.

At lunchtime I had paid €5.00 for a half kilo of Beef. This was ridiculous. He returned with three more slices of Lamb. If this was authentic Kleftiko that would not have been possible.

Fortunately, what I ate was wonderful, full on Flavours, well Seasoned Lamb. We departed as friends, the chaps had a shot, the ladies were presented with ice-cream.

The children went to bed, a €20.00 taxi for Clive and Maggie. Hector returned to Tapfield. Miltos gave his customary greeting. As I took a stool at the bar, so Miltos gestured towards my left, Kostas! The next hour was madness.

Fermi Paradox was on here too, however, it was straight back to Take Your Time “Persephone” (Main Squeeze Brewing, Athena, Hellas). As it happened, the Brewer was sitting beside me, another introduction. The Hector knows nobody in Athena.