Day 26 – Monday, April 14th
13.05, Flight NZ5309 from Wellington to Nelson, a forty five minute flight. Way more efficient than messing about in boats. We were so quick in getting up and out of the hotel, the earlier airport Bus was caught. Still dry.
Now there was time to marvel at the suspended creatures.
There was fog in Nelson this morning, would our flight be delayed? No, as it happened. I messaged Claire to let her know we should be on time.
Marg, we haven’t been through security, and I don’t see how they can do so at our gate.
Security, where was it? I went up to the departure gate to ask.
It’s because of the type of ‘plane.
So propeller jobs are open to any maniac’s disposition?
Boarding by ramp instead of stairs was novel.
The overhead bin did not take my bag, the thought of such a long flight with this at my feet…
Please place large bags under the seat in front of you.
Eh? My bag fitted no problem. Welcome aboard a de Havilland Bombardier Q300, seating around 80. We were at the back, boarding was at the front.
41º South, Wellington and Nelson are at the same latitude, we flew west. Approaching Nelson, the coastline had lots of spits, enough on coastal landforms.
A cement works dominated the view on approach, and again a few minutes later, and once more. The pilot was making a meal of it.
I had never met Claire before today, Marg had when she was over in Scotland visiting her daughter – Julia!
Yes, Julia gets another mention. Julia, who we spent three nights with in Singapore, is from Nelson. Such is our acquired status, Claire was giving up her apartment for the duration of our three night stay. Not only that, we were having the use of her car. Julia’s two years in Helensburgh had not been forgotten and was paying dividends.
The apartment was opposite Tahunanui Beach, a few minutes drive south of Nelson city centre. Free House was mentioned as a must visit, plus the nearby Sprig + Fern Tahuna across the street. Forget the Bier house under the apartment, but the Raglan Roast coffee house next door is a must visit.
Claire drove us into town, we dropped her at her place of work, and that was it.
Shopping, supplies, milk etc., Claire had left us Sparkling Wine as a welcome, we needed the basics.
Dinner, it had to be Curry. Julia has spoken oft about Indian Cafe. There would be retribution if this was not reviewed in Curry-Heute, and it came to pass.
As luck would have it, The Free House is directly across the back from Indian Cafe, A church hall once upon a time, as the name suggests, they are able to offer Bier from a cross section of breweries.
At my time of being served I asked:
A New England IPA or DIPA?
What’s a New England IPA – the girl replied.
Also, this explains everything. Hector may well be being misled by Untappd.
Fresh April ’24 (Garage Project, Wellington, New Zealand) at 7.0%, had the full milkshake haze, the body was sound without being syrupy.
This Bier was potentially dangerous, one could do damage here. Most importantly, Nelson Sauvin was one of the hops, the whole reason for being here. Lots of hops: Idaho 7, Citra, Riwaka and even the dreaded Talus. Such was the combination, the Talus was subdued.
*
After the mass tasting at the bar, it took some time for the full flavour of this Bier to command attention. In time, body and flavour.
What about the mouthfeel?
How can Hector wind up peeps back home when this is what comes back?
Hector had his Bier with Nelson hops in Nelson, but not a Bier at source. The only possible brewery in Nelson itself – Two Thumb – ain’t open on a Monday. Are we in that London?
Being fair to Marg, one Bier at The Free House, time to park up the car for the night.
Sprig & Fern Tahuna, is one of many Sprig & Fern taprooms in the area. The brewery is in nearby Richmond. Closing at 21.00, wtf?
A bit of a shack, the welcome was warm, strangers in town.
Chasing Hazy at 5.2%, suitably named, this Hazy IPA had the full yellow haze. A juicy tasting Bier, but. There was a back taste, something familiar, I couldn’t work it it out. A mark down for this. Hops? Nobody was letting on.
Early closing, I’ll get used to it.
*
*
*
Taproom, bar and restaurant visited today:
The Free House Pub – 95 Collingwood Street, Nelson 7010
Sprig + Fern Tavern Tahuna – 13 Beach Rd., Tahunanui, Nelson 7011
The Indian Cafe – 94 Collingwood Street, Nelson 7011
Day 27 – Tuesday, April 15th
Two Thumb Brewing – was today’s objective, a brewery in Nelson. There was a full day’s itinerary before then.
Marg had returned from her morning run full of how wonderful the beach is. She had sneaked in a coffee at Raglan’s, a chap had engaged her. All was well, but not until Hector too had ben led along the beach.
The Centre of New Zealand – it said on Google Maps. We had to inspect. One day, Google will fully embrace 3D. There was no mention of the twenty minute climb which became steeper as we closed in on the summit.
The view was worth it. Alpine scenery without having to climb the Alps. 
The monument is one I shall recognise for ever more. Having said we have been there, even better.
The centre? I suppose it’s close to the intersection of N-S, E-W, lines, diagonals even. Hopefully, the spot was less than arbitrary. Lots of photos, the alpine landscape inland had us singing – the lonely goatherd, not.
Marg wanted food. If the reader has not yet grasped that when such a declaration is made, food must be imminent. Founders Heritage Park had popped up, surely there was a cafe or similar there.
Welcome to old Nelson, preserved as much a replica one assumes.
The train station was there, photos for the enthusiasts.
The big attraction was the small but poignant – Nelson Hops Museum.
There was an old boxcar-freight ‘plane, built by Bristol, them of Beaufighter and Concord fame.
The cafe shut at 15.00, it was 15.20. Marg was hungry. It was also getting closer to dinner, and we were due to meet up with Claire later for an evening meal. Coffee shops have a habit of closing by 16.00 Marg keeps reminding me. I found one open later – Qualitea Cafe, in the heart of Downtown Nelson. We parked in the car park outside Indian Cafe, this time we had to pay a small fee.
Nelson was quite different from anything seen so far in New Zealand. In terms of city centres, that’s Wellington. This had quite a US feel to it. The blue dot got us to Qualitea, eventually. Tea no more.
The charming girl serving – Woher Kommst Du? – asked the Hector informally.
Her accent was certainly Central European.
Ice Cream Sundaes, on a Tuesday. The accompanying Sparkling Water was on the house, she didn’t know how to charge for it. At least dinner should no longer be compromised. I picked up a brochure.
The cathedral, the cathedral steps. A photo. No way was Hector climbing them, enough already.
There was a bit of time to kill. The Old Vic looked appealing. There was a quick half of Super Charger (Panhead).
A young couple opposite were discussing a forthcoming trip to the UK. So it goes. 
Two Thumb Brewing was a few blocks away, let’s check it out before tonight. Fit for ladies?
A Brewery Tap, the Brewery is in Christchurch. There was something Hazy, and I liked the atmosphere, laters.
Claire suggested a Thai restaurant She phoned to book, closed. Instead, she drove to an Italian near the cathedral, we followed. A convoy, back to where we had just come from.
Lombardi’s Italian Ristorante made us feel quite at home. Our waiter was from Lake Garda.
Descenzano, Sirmione? – I asked.
Further north, up the lake. We felt at home. Nearly four weeks away and still no burger or pizza. It had to be pasta. There was wine too, a clever move in the company of two drivers.
Polpette, I couldn’t finish it. Claire took a doggy bag for her meal, my leftovers were abandoned. Too much Bread at the start.
We walked to Two Thumb Brewing. The table right beside the bar was secured. Soft drinks for the drivers, the Hector would be otherwise engaged.
The sensible start was not a Two Thumb Bier.
Otto (Epic Beer, Onehunga, Auckland, New Zealand) a Hazy IPA at 6.2% was also suggested as a NEIPA by Untappd. Mosaic and Citra hops were coming across, this Bier slowly built up on the palate. With the haze and a worthy body this was a decent Session Bier. There was more.
Claire – I have never been here before.
Claire – I’m never out midweek.
Before we knew it, two chaps had table-hopped us. One was particularly known to Julia, photos sent to Singapore. Approved.
Otto – on looking up this Bier, a picture of the Can popped up. The Bier is named after – Otto – the inflatable autopilot in Airplane!
Time to get serious.
Supa Hazy (Two Thumb Brewing Co., Christchurch, New Zealand) at 8.0%, an IIPA!
This was a CAN, I promised the chap earlier earlier I have this. Mud, poured a la Hector, this was properly dry and chewy. Here was Hector in Nelson at a taproom drinking a Bier with Cascade, Citra and Simcoe hops. So it goes.
The taproom, bar, restaurant and cafe visited today:
Two Thumb Nelson – 32c New Street, Nelson 7011
The Vic Public House – 281 Trafalgar Street – Nelson 7010
Lombardi’s Ristorante – 295 Trafalgar Street, Nelson 7010
The Qualitea Cafe – Shop 1/167 Hardy Street, Nelson 7010
Day 28 – Wednesday, April 16th
Today was the day, the local hops at source. Motueka lies to the west of Nelson, along the route there had to be a hop growing, somewhere. What was guaranteed in Motueka was Townshend Brewery.
We arrived around 13.00. The brew-plant was at the rear of the site. There was a Taproom for Takeaway only. A girl appeared behind the bar and told us that we needed to be next door.
Before Bier, the sacred photo. We had passed some hop fields en route, but here was the opperchancity to caress live Motueka hops. The World must suffer.
Toad Hall, the same girl appeared to show us to a table. There couldn’t be Bier this early without food. It was a young boy who served us, keen as mustard, was he long out of short trousers?
Moroccan Kebab for Hector, Nachos for Marg. Anything to avoid burger and pizza. The chap who brought my Bier was not long out of school, if indeed he was. Keen as mustard.
Hazy IPA at 5.8%, the haze was there, the body was there, juicy too, but a slight sharpness on the palate was taking its toll. The hops were not for being identified, even after I went up to the girl pouring, who gave me the flyer.
By halfway I was used to this. I have been long enough in New Zealand to realise they may have the hops, this might be as good as it gets.
The Moroccan Lamb was nothing like as good as Alison’s. The Nachos were something else. No meat, but what a package. I helped Marg finish, they were wonderful. The biggest plate of Nachos ever seen. is
With the car at our disposal, the must-do was the drive to the beach at Kaiteriterei which was some way beyond Riwaka. Motueka took a few minutes to drive through, Riwaka, blink and you’d miss it. I nearly blinked on the way back.
We had been warned that the hop harvest was over, I caught some remnants in situ.
*
The Curry House in Motueka, planned for later, was on the main street, simples.
Kaiteriteri was a worthy destination. The tide was out meaning the lagoon was empty.
A comfortable walk along the sands, just as well the rain has abated. Plenty of photo opperchancities.
There was a pit-stop at the Waterfront Cafe. This shall be remembered for the family who, having finished their lunch sought Takeaway containers. A passing gull had other ideas.
The girl serving was from Aberdoom!
There had to be a Bier at source, in Riwaka. Hop Federation was located. Again, a dedicated Taproom for Takeaway only, lies adjacent to a hotel. Oh, look at that array of taps. East European chaps were manning the show.
I went out back to find the brew-plant, none.
Where is it?
In Motueka.
Still, this is the only place to have their Bier in Motueka, albeit from plastic. Better than wood.
Hop Federation’s – Fields of Green Hazy IPA at 5.8% by definition is one of the most satisfying Biers ever had. Who cares what it tasted like, that it was muddy and served in plastic. Riwaka at source! QED.
I found the address of the actual brewery, we headed along the road, another Takeaway only Taproom…but for Townshend.
Three times a day, people come in and ask where is the brewery!
He didn’t know where they’ve gone, the brew-plant was there until he moved in at the turn of the year. I saw the room where it was, previously.
Not only was the Hector determined to rub the noses today with Bier, there’s a Curry House in Motueka. It had to be done. Simply Indian opened at 17.00, both of us were still pretty full.
Note, Marg was not hungry.
A shipwreck was featured on the map, worth a look. It gave lunch a few more minutes to digest.
Marg had Starter, Hector the full Bhuna, literally. Motueka featuring in Curry-Heute, tick!
After 18.00 and only two Bier stops. Two places stood out on our return drive to Nelson. Richmond lies south of the airport and gives way to Stoke which is classed as Nelson.
We had seen Eddyline Brewing as we passed through Richmond earlier. With the Eddyline Brewery closing an hour before the Brewery-Pizzeria, we tried to locate the Pizzeria. Knowing where it is and finding it, in the dark, a different story. We found the swimming pool. Stoke was surely easier.
McCashin’s Brewery is housed in the old cider house.
A plaque commemorated the opening, even Hector recognised the name.
*
*
*
*
Hazy?
No.
Tasters then, The best of a bad bunch.
Stoke IPA (McCashin’s Brewery, Stoke, Nelson, New Zealand) at 4.8%, a Late Hop Pale. This was clear, approaching West Coast IPA, but lacking the hop hit, average as average is.
The worst Bier I’ve had in New Zealand?
I couldn’t end my visit to Nelson on this note. Back to the swimming pool. It was Marg who spotted the sign.
Why are places advertised as a – Brewery – when clearly they are not? OK, the Pizzeria probably had the full range of Eddyline brews. Hector sorted a Bier, Marg a dessert. Guess why.
Tantric Haze (Eddyline Brewery, Richmomd, New Zealand) at 6.8%, a Hazy IPA. With Mosaic, El Dorado, Citra and Nectaron, this had a dreamer’s blend of hops. In the NEIPA style, the full haze, but thin for the abv, this was well smooth on the palate. There was nothing here not to like, but as with many a NZ Bier, lacking in that something special.
Nelson-Motueka-Riwaka – may have the hops, do they have the brewers?
Brewery, taprooms, bars, restaurants, and cafes visited:
Townshend Brewery (Toad Hall) – 602 High Street, Motueka 7120
Hop Federation Taproom – 627 Main Rd., Riwaka 7198
Eddyline Pizzeria & Brewpub – 8 Champion Rd., Richmond 7020
McCashin’s Tap Room – 660 Main Street, Stoke, Nelson 7011
Simply Indian – 130 High Street, Motueka 7120
Waterfront – 1 Kaiteriteri- Sandy Beach Rd., Kaiteriteri 7197
Back to : Nelson Homepage
Back to : Wellington Days 23 – 26