Day 29 – Thursday, April 17th – Nelson to Christchurch
Another day, another flight: NZ5865 at 14.20 to Christchurch. When this trip was conceived, I assumed we would be hiring a car and driving south, not to be. The cost of car hire is prohibitive, flights are a no brainer even with check-in bags.
There was a coffee for Hector, finally, at Ragan Roast beneath the apartment. Marg was maybe a regular, her third visit. We sat outside with the other regulars. Peeps appeared to stop off here as part of their daily constitutional. The life of the retired and fit in New Zealand. I’m surprised they are still walking around 10.00, I thought they all exercised at 05.00.
We shall always remember and appreciate our time here. Claire’s apartment featured the only dishwasher the Hector has ever approved of.
Claire was taking us back to the airport, but first our convoy had to drop off the extra car. Claire’s daughter lives no more than a sneeze from Nelson Airport. Claire sat with us until our flight was called. This still feels strange, an airport with free access for all areas. Think of the airports where one cannot even get in the building without a flight ticket.
Thank you, Claire, you are a legend!
Soon after take-off our toy ‘plane was flying over what the retired Geographer would describe as a glaciated desert. Nelson Lakes National Park, damn few lakes, to see such vast expanses and no sign of human existence, unusual.
On reaching a plain, a comparatively large settlement. Why live here at all?
There was definitely more to Christchurch Airport compared to the glorified shed that was Nelson. How to get into the city?
My first Uber quote was favourable. By the time we had our bags it had doubled, plus a thirty minute delay had been injected. Let’s find the bus.
The signs took us to something resembling a bus terminus, two coaches were on stand, a municipal bus parked up across the concourse. The driver directed us back to the bus stance.
Marg is used to all buses being for her. That’s how it works in the World of sport. Private hire, buses laid on. I had to stop her putting her bag in the hold of one of the two coaches, a rugby trip.
The said driver of the municipal Bus 8 challenged me when I asked if his bus was going to Cathedral Junction.
I thought you wanted Bus 29.
That was then.
NZ$4.00, each, cash, way cheaper than a taxi. This was the first cash I have spent in New Zealand. Change was given.
Hotel 115, Cathedral Junction, this was the former tram depot, and the tourist tram still runs though it. Our first non Ibis, a decent hotel, and Cathedral Junction proved to be the ideal place to stay.
The chap at check-in said he was giving us an upgrade because we were staying four nights. Four nights, is this too long to stay in Christchurch?
We had half an hour to explore the surroundings, The other side of the depot gave way to New Regent Street, this was stepping back in time, quite a buzz.
Rebecca, Becks, was collecting us at 17.00, Another of Marg’s former charges, Becks was with us back in 2011, the year of the Christchurch Earthquake. Another catch-up.
Considering her own home to be on the small side to entertain the international travellers, Becks had arranged dinner for us and her husband Nick at her parents’ house in Lincoln.
Chris and John, inviting perfect strangers to their home. Such is the impact of a year spent in Helensburgh. Thank you!
After the customary addressing of the dog and sprog, We were duly fed and watered. We arrived with wine, but the Hector was not refusing Bier. Well, two out of three were not happening. I cannot believe people still buy the Bier with the same name as the virus which kept us prisoners for so long. An as yet untried Panhead was much appreciated.
Blacktop Oat Stout (Panhead Custom Ales, Upper Hutt, New Zealand), a 5.5% bottled Stout would never be Hector’s first choice of Bier. This came across as a lesser bottled Guinness. It lacked body or any other discerning quality. The dinner was way better. Thank you, all!
Coffee shop visited today:
Raglan Roast Tahunanui – The Sands 623 Rocks Rd. Moana, Nelson 7011
Day 30 – Friday, April 18th
Having been driven out of the city last night, I had some awareness of what greater Christchurch was like, a compact city centre, endless suburbs. Carville. Marg had been before – it’s like England. England in the autumn, it appears. Marg was here pre-Earthquake, there are lots of new shiny buildings which may not have come into existence otherwise.
Cathedral Junction, the former tram station, the cathedral itself is covered in scaffolding, repairs/renovation is ongoing.
We needed a light lunch, dinner was again already taken of.
Cafe Stir, on New Regent Street had Chowder, not to be missed. Marg had a rather large omelette.
The walls featured photos of the trams from the days of yore. Trams feature prominently in this post.
Having acquired the brochure for the Tram and seen the price for the day ticket, this was dismissed as being a – no-no. Hector had a plan, let’s walk the route, a figure of eight through down-town Christchurch.
We passed Quake City, the earthquake museum, the Park, and what appeared to be more of the University campus. Apparently not, this was – The Arts Centre. The perfection of this building, despite its age, suggested a quick rebuild. Then there was the bit which still needed repair, hence the appeal for more money?
There are swathes of Christchurch behind hoardings, wholesale clearance. Not every city gets a chance to start again, maybe this was not the hoped for catalyst. The lives lost.
A few watering holes were spotted on our tour. Riverside Market featured a stand for Canterbury Brewers Collective, and also Curry. I studied the Bier list, then introduced myself at the Curry stall. OK, I might force myself to have a Bier with a Curry later in the week.
If there’s a Christchurch Tram the Hector did not photograph today, it must be off the road. Were there only the fur running?
Coffee o’clock, that doesn’t sound right. C-One Espresso, housed in the former Post & Telegraph Office. It wasn’t closing mid afternoon as most places of this type tend to.
Food being delivered by pneumatic tube was fun for the weans. This was only available at the tables around the wall. For once, Marg and Hector were not window dressing.
Marg secured a suitably hot coffee, Hector tried something else.
Koko Samoa – was not just hot chocolate, it was a chemistry experiment. An experiment in testing patience.
It came with a timer as well as the filter arrangement. Not a fan of filter coffee, this was worse.
Having drunk the – hot water knocked stupid (Donald Sutherland, and no, not that one.) – I chucked the lot in the pot.
Turkish Cocoa! Horrible. A lesson learned.
18.30, our scheduled meet up with Brine, another Kiwi who worked with Marg. We reached Mumbaiwala a few minutes early, it was only a five minute walk from Cathedral Junction. Brine and Nick (again), whatever happened to everyone being called – Bruce – arrived just after 18.30. Brine and Marg had their required intense conversation whilst Nick wondered why the Hector was not having Bier. Brine was in Helensburgh in the era of Curry-Heute and Bier-Traveller, she knew the score. My preference for not having Bier with Curry was explained. I must point out, Mumbaiwala had a decent range of Bier. UK Curry Houses have much to learn.
Hector’s choice of South Indian Curry was a revelation. Tales of The Unexpected. Four happy diners.
Nick suggested we adjourn to The Craft Embassy on the waterfront. Here is a parade of shiny new bars and restaurants lining the east bank of the River Avon. Mass clearance.
An upstairs venue, an elevator was involved. I had checked the access out earlier, or so I thought. I had spotted the lane entrance, not the elaborate process of gaining entry thereafter. The heavy wooden door was manned, or – womanned.
Quite busy, we took a table on the balcony, but soon got back inside. The jacket brought for Dunedin has come in handy earlier than assumed. Nick mentioned Stokes as his favourite brewery, That place, which two nights ago in Nelson, I struggled to find anything decent. I didn’t.
With Brine the designated driver, Nick and Hector were set to have a session. Four Biers on the board had potential, three were Fresh Hop
#Fakenews (Burke’s Brewing Co., Tekapo, New Zealand) a Hazy IPA at 6.0% initially hit the back of the throat strongly, but as this subsided the Bier improved markedly. Yellow, with a decent haze, the hops were not declared. The flavours grew, though the body was probably a bit thin for the abv.
Mcleods Brewery (Waipu, New Zealand) has already appeared twice in these pages. Tonight the 802 #58, Hector had 802 #57 in Wellington at The Malthouse.
802 #58 at 6.8%, Fresh Hop Unfiltered was the given description, there was only a half haze in this gold offering. Stunning! Straight five! The Nelson Sauvin hops were doing their job, a NEIPA by any description other than by its appearance. One, at least, back home was deceived.
802 #58 was only released this week, so much better than #57.
Another release this week is Cone dip IPA at 6.0% (Duncans, Kapiti, New Zealand). NZIPA Fresh Hop was the given description. Gold, clear, not as intense as what had come before, the Riwaka hops still gave off a tropic fruitiness. A mellow, drink, one could happily have stayed with this if the previous two had not been on. Hector couldn’t find four to excite, surely?
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Fresh Hop NZH-106 at 6.0% (Sawmill Brewery, Matakana, New Zealand) was classed as a Hazy IPA. The Kiwi brewers might be deliberately avoiding using – NEIPA – as a moniker. Again, released this week, yellow and only a slight haze, this had a huge hop hit. NZH-106 and Motueka hops, this was beautiful, quaffable.
There was a dilemma, the 802 #58 came in a smaller glass, to maintain standard pricing. The Fresh Hop NZH-106 was worthy of having more too. There’s always tomorrow.
I must thank Nick for making this the night it was. I may have heard enough about hockey on this trip already. More talk about Bier and Curry!
Bar, restaurant and cafes visited today:
The Craft Embassy – The Terrace Level One/126 Oxford Terrace, Christchurch Central City, Christchurch 8011
Mumbaiwala – BNZ Centre, 120 Hereford Street, Christchurch 8011
C-One Espresso – 185 High Street, Christchurch 8142
Cafe Stir – 27 New Regent Street, Christchurch Central City, Christchurch 8011
Day 31 – Saturday, April 19th
Another day of walking, fortunately the right foot, had a rest in Auckland and Nelson and is showing signs of recovery. I was getting to the stage of wondering if this was it for the duration.
Marg who had run through part of the park desired my company for The Botanic Gardens.
At our time of emerging from the delightfully comfortable room, we walked all of three metres from the hotel entrance to the Tramway Cafe. Marg needed food, the Hector wasn’t that bothered.
A somewhat boring sandwich was forced down. 15.00, the ideal time to eat. Midnight back home as we ate.
The problem with parks, they have flowers. Flowers attract insects, then insects discover Hector is in town. This was a leisurely walk, lots of photo opperchancities in the autumn afternoon sunlight. There were various housed plants.
In Glasgow’s Botanic Gardens we have hot houses, here the opposite. I still cannot find a sink with a big enough sequence of draining to complement the one I took at Singapore spinning in the opposite direction.
It was warm enough for Marg to favour ice cream over coffee. The #1 choice venue was queued out the door. The same company have a branch on New Regent Street, another time.
Paleta Bar – became the next objective, close to Dux Central, a big bar we had passed yesterday. With the blue dot having a hard time, it was deduced that Paleta Bar was inside – Little High Eatery. Julia had recommended a visit here, tick.
Whilst enjoying the ice-cream I took in the array of Bier taps on the various food stands. If needs must, there could be a return.
Bier o’clock
Two Thumb Brewing was a good fifteen minutes walk up Manchester St, what an omen. Having visited their taproom in Nelson, hopes were high. What were the chances of us walking into their Fresh Hop Festival. There was a crowd. Getting served was not an issue.
Fresh Hop Waimea Hazy at 6.0% was listed as a NEIPA. It isn’t. The Waimea hops had been grown in Motueka, the brewers could have done with upping their usage. Gold, half hazy, remote from being a milkshake, this thin offering was piney too. This, if anything, this was a WCIPA.
A Bier – at source – at last, and shrouding myself in hops once more, there have to be some pleasures.
After a break we headed out for Chinese food. Sampan House is adjacent to Cathedral Junction. The place was busy but with tables at the rear, plenty of spaces.
We’re not taking walk-ins.
Chong’s, in the heart of Downtown Christchurch was eventually located. A popular place, allegedly, we were the only customers. They were closing soon, there was plenty of room at the inn.
I’m finding Chinese food all tastes pretty much the same. Not enough intensity, bring back Spice Paradise (Sydney).
Going straight back to The Craft Embassy might have been foolish, time was needed between Biers. We walked back out to Dux Central.
Most tables were booked for – soon. A live band outside may have been encouraging the swarm. I’m sure the Bier list was better when I first popped in. I also thought this was where Dux was brewed, I still don’t know.
Dux Hazy (The Dux Brewing Co., Canterbury, New Zealand) at 5.7%, a Hazy IPA lived up to its description. The full milkshake haze, and the body matched the abv. Citra, Moutere and Amarillo were the hops, they could have given more. Yes, I knew this was a hoppy Bier, but after last night’s two – specials, not competition.
There was an interruption, and a welcome one at that. Howard was making a video call! Nobody else has been in touch so directly. Much appreciated.
As the Canterbury Hop Federation lay between us and The Craft Embassy, a stop here was mooted. 21.00, the Riverside Market was closing, it was Marg who spotted the taps in Shaka Bros..
Basically a hamburger joint, Marg and I have not succumbed to eating them on this trip. Once again, a range of Craft Beer that bewilders. This was, in effect, a taproom for Beers by Bacon Bros, confused?
Having studied the list, I was determined – I’m having a Hazy. The helpful young bartender produced some tins. Sorted.
Jawa Juice (Beers by Bacon Bros., Christchurch, New Zealand) a Juicy Hazy DDH IPA at 6.5% would surely have something to offer? I had read the back of the CAN: Nelson Sauvin, Nectaron and Wai-iti hops were in there. Care was taken, poured a la Hector.
Behold the full milkshake haze, all the hops extracted from the CAN. A decent body, the hops were coming through, pleasant, but lacking the – wow. That was waiting at The Craft Beer Embassy.
Twenty four keg taps and six hand-pulls, Nick was right, this is a wonderful bar.
Both Fresh Hop NZH-106 and 802 #58 were enjoyed again.
Marg had been super-indulgent today, Hector had his big afternoon/evening in Christchurch.
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A Saturday night, the yoofs were out in big numbers, queueing to get in to who knows what. They will not be getting up at 04.00 like the other Kiwis I have encountered.
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Brewery, taprooms, restaurant, cafes visited today:
Two Thumb Brewing Co. – 352 Manchester Street, Christchurch 8013
The Craft Embassy – The Terrace Level One/126 Oxford Terrace, Christchurch Central City, Christchurch 8011
Dux Central – 144 Lichfield Street, Christchurch Central City, Christchurch 8011,
Bacon Bros, Shaka Bros – Riverside Market, 96 Oxford Terrace, Christchurch Central City, Christchurch 8011
Chong’s – 101/119 Cashel Street, Christchurch City Centre, Christchurch 8011
Tramway Cafe – Cathedral Junction Body Corporate 115 Worcester Street, Christchurch Central City, Christchurch 8011,
Little High Eatery – Paleta Bar – 255 Saint Asaph Street, Christchurch Central City, Christchurch 8011
Day 32 – Sunday, April 20th
It is the day of the Christchurch Marathon. Marg was not taking part, Becks was meant to until circumstances changed. We knew the city centre roads were closed until 14.30, a 10.00 start?
We arrived after noon to find a kid running alongside an adult, metres from the finish line. Either these early starts breed them young and fit, or something was afoot. The Marathon had started at, well, we don’t know. 09.00 was possible, Marg still thinks @06.00-07.00. Who are these people?
Sarah Hughes was one of them! Pity her name was called before I could get the camera ready. But who knows, she may be in a shot somewhere.
I like to eat bananas, cos they got no bones…
Nevertheless, Marg got into cheering mode. She knows she could have gone out much earlier, but had chosen to await Hector surfacing. After last night?
The sign at the Start did amuse, even Hector could take part in such a marathon.
Our walk back to town took us past the Earthquake Memorial Wall. There had to be something somewhere, why had it taken so long to discover it?
Time for Bier & Curry!
The Canterbury Brewers Collective was calling as was Dosa Kitchen. The chaps were on duty today. Where were the ladies, who probably cooked the stuff, that I had met previously?
They did their best to create a Hector Curry. This page is more about the Bier.
Riwaka Fresh Hop (Eruption Brewing, Christchurch, New Zealand) a 6.3% IPA looked decidedly West Coast. After nearly two weeks in New Zealand, one has come to realise: taste it, then define it.
This was a NEIPA in everything but appearance. The sought after smooth, mellow roundness was there. The Riwaka hops sat well on the palate. At 6.3% with the body to match, for lunch, just as well there was Curry to hand.
Actually, the Bier was hardly touched until the eating was over. Too many pleasures at once.
Marg’s turn, she was keen to visit the Earthquake Museum. It was free to enter, so no complaints for Hector on a bus-man’s holiday.
The one thing I did gain from this visit was a better understanding of liquefaction. A phenomenon that was only really beginning to be understood towards the end of my teaching career, else it was new t’syllabus. The kids here are taught all about – spread yourself flat!
I also located the streets I knew and confirmed that the new shiny stuff was where there had been mass destruction.
Marg sat and watched the whole video of interviews with people in the aftermath. Hector read about Montgomery Clift on his phone.
Ice-cream time, and the Rollickin that we missed out on yesterday, was, as expected, quieter on New Regent Street. Seats upstairs, nope, full of screaming Kiwi females.
There was a timeout before our last evening in Christchurch.
Somewhat cleverly, we had stopped at Sampan House en route to the Marathon and booked a table for this evening. The place was almost empty tonight. Kiwis prefer to eat Chinese on Saturdays then. Full portions, well cooked, this was a cut above the norm.
It had to be The Craft Embassy. We have not visited any single premises three times in all of this trip, and not tonight either. Although they were open and due to close later, it was quiet, they were calling it a night. Marg tried to plead for a quiche (sic), the Hector was not having this.
Bier is to be savoured, enjoyed, not rushed.
Running out of places, what could follow the Biers had here? Back to Little High Eatery. One of their outlets – El Fogon Grill – had something – in the style.
Alpha Juice (Three Boys Brewery, Christchurch, New Zealand) at 6.3%, a Pale Ale in the NEIPA style had a decent haze. A bit thin, but quaffable, Alpha Juice would make a good session Bier. Simcoe, Wai-iti and Nectaron were present but giving all they could. The brewery call this an – IPA.
Where are the taps for these breweries, I wasn’t finding them, and now it’s too late.
Hector was almost last out of Little High Eatery.
The brewery tap, restaurant, food outlets and cafe visited today:
The Canterbury Brewers Collective – Riverside Market, 96 Oxford Terrace, Christchurch Central City, Christchurch 8011
Sampan House – 168 Gloucester Street, Christchurch Central City, Christchurch 8011
Little High Eatery – El Fogon Grill – 255 Saint Asaph Street, Christchurch Central City, Christchurch 8011,
Dosa Kitchen – 96 Oxford Terrace, Christchurch Central City, Christchurch 8011
Rollickin Gelato – 35 New Regent Street, Christchurch Central City, Christchurch 8011
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