San Francisco CA : Around The World in 80 Days – Days 46

Day 46 – Saturday, May 4^th

May the fourth, as the Americans like to call it, the dressing up parade was cancelled. A TV channel informed us that today’s 9ºC is 10ºC cooler than is normal at this time of year. Rain may have been the bigger issue. Hector had conceived this trip so as not to arrive in Chicago and Seattle before winter had lost its grip. At 38ºN, San Francisco lies at a similar latitude to Lisboa and Athena, a higher temperature was anticipated. However, there is nothing one can do about its West Coast Maritime climate, rain is always a possibility, after-all, Colombo always wore a raincoat.

It was pouring as we emerged from Powell Street BART station, a few minutes after midnight. The escalator was off already. Passing some undesirables, our 20kg bags were duly hauled up the flights of stairs. Hopefully the Hector had judged it correctly, Hotel Amari on Sutter Street was before Powell Street became really steep.

Six blocks north-ish, passing Union Square, then one and a bit blocks west, spotting the vagrant was not difficult. Who else would be on the street in this downpour?

The chap at reception had taken my earlier phone-call, all was well, check-in a formality. Six floors up, a tired building, the room could have been smaller. No ocean view here, no more waking up to a Hawaiian-Pacific vista, our new window showed the rear alley. An adequate room at half the price we will be forced to pay in later stops.

Hector was hungry. Also, going straight to bed, even at this time, was not on. A nearby 7/11 remained open, a focal point for those we had carefully made no eye contact with. Sadly the adjacent Kebap shop had just closed. The Hector could have murdered a Dönner. Instead, that other delicacy, the Hot-Dog came to the rescue. Not just that, a Chilli-Dog! On the scale of disgustingness, this was – eleven.

After our nocturnal repose, there was no sense of having to go out in the rain any time soon. With four days in San Francisco, visiting two Curry Houses was seen as the optimum. The nearby Shalimar Restaurant came up trumps. An excellent choice, Hector. Shalimar was considered in 2018, Chutney Indian Restaurant opposite being chosen instead.

In 2018, Dr. Stan and Hector resided nearby on Geary Street, between Tenderloin and Union Square. Heading down towards the BART station, I was expecting to see the tent town which had once occupied one of these blocks. It had gone. Still, there remained a few unfortunates in doorways, they were minding their own business.

Our Clipper Cards had to be topped up. The first machines didn’t like us. A chap from the Metro came out to help, sorted. With the rain receding we were once more at the Powell Street Street-car terminus.

This was the perfect opperchancity to take the cable-car over the hill towards Fisherman’s Wharf. I had ever seen the terminus without a queue, well it was a cold, wet, Saturday brunchtime.

Not the best day for sightseeing, over the hill we went. Marg had secured an optimum seat. Her first sighting of Alcatraz came into view. Cable-car, Alcatraz, this visit to San Francisco would be different, but this is the second half of our 80 Days, the first was Marg’s. Realistically, how much more Bier can the Hector manage? Haven’t done too badly so far.

With Golden Gate Bridge in the distant mist, there was little point going total tourist today, though we would end up at the beach.

On The Beach (Nevil Shute), another favourite movie featuring San Francisco. We took in the atmosphere of the near deserted Fisherman’s Wharf, Pier 39 itself we could come back to. I took in the submarine, the Liberty Ship had gone. It only feels like two days since I last saw a US submarine.

Coffee time. Marg fancied the imposing Boudin Bakery & Cafe. Fresh bread was being racked, oh to have some. Then there’s the Chouder served in Bread which I missed out on in 2018 for the same reason as today, too soon after lunch. Marg queued for coffee, I secured places at a bench table opposite a mature couple.

Deutsch, the first I’ve heard on this trip. A couple from Ulm, Marg and I have been to this part of Deutschland near Memmingen where Ryanair fly to for München. We were all far from home. With Marg in full conversation mode, the Hector interjected sporadic Deutsch into the conversation. It’s still there, somewhere, I just don’t get to use it any more.

Maßlogiskeit in Maßen, nobody had got it yet. Finally, two people understood the motto of Le Tour du Monde en 80 Jours. Even translated to English, I still don’t think Marg does. Obscure, moi? I definitely did not want everyone we met reading it aloud in English. Roll on Canada.

Having already done – the beach – I headed towards the first brewery of the day – San Francisco Brewing Co. I remembered the old factory building complete with chocolate shop, that would amuse Marg. I also recall taking a phone-call from Marg whilst standing outside the Brewery. In 2018, Marg was heading for bed whilst Dr. Stan and Hector were imbibing.

There was to be no imbibing at San Francisco Brewing today, we were lucky to get in. The place was beyond stowed. Initially I thought it was a private function given everyone was dressed to the nines. The TV gave it away, Kentucky Derby, a grand day out, it must be a local ritual.

Had I got a Bier it would have been a most uncomfortable drinking experience. Better to leave, at least I had confirmed this place had survived, my favourite San Francisco brewery from 2018, Local Brewery & Beer Bar has seemingly gone.

Google Maps gave me a bus back along the waterfront, however, Tram F was waiting. Embarcadero next, and the Fort Point Beer Company tap. Getting off a stop too soon turned out to be serendipitous.

Behold the pier for the Alcatraz ferry. Two tickets were booked for Tuesday, hopefully more clement than today.

Photos of not the Golden Gate were secured, as ever Marg was looking for anything in the water that showed signs of life.

Rain has been the curse of many a day on this trip, and it was back with a vengeance. No sooner had an Asian chap taken our photos than another massive downpour forced us to retreat indoors.

Embarcadero is way longer than I remembered. I knew Fort Point was no more than a stall serving Bier, but where? The blue dot was well confused, had they moved to grander premises. Having dismissed the likely, I looked in an unlikely place, and so the first Bier of the day was ordered.

It was standing room only to begin with, in time we squeezed ourselves on to the end of a bench, the group of loud girlies having departed.

Animal Tropical IPA at 7.4% was had in less than moderation back in 2018. The Good Doctor and Hector had quite a session on this, the serving staff appreciating our custom. How things change. The wee girl serving was indifferent, the Hector palate has also moved on. Pleasant as this dry, full bodied West Coast IPA may be, this 54IBU with Vic’s Secret and Simcoe and Citra hops was more bitter than one currently seeks.

With a clear blue sky, it was time to head inland and discover what the new had to offer. The BART took us five stops from Embarcadero to Church Street. From there it was a short walk to Wilkommen by Black Hammer Brewing Company. Black Hammer, the source, had been visited in 2018, Wilkommen proved to be quite different. The full range of Black Hammer Bier was promised.

This Bierhaus was attempting to capture the feeling of being in a Deutche Bierhalle, without having the acreage. Multiple taps, but only five on. Hardly acceptable on a Saturday.

There was a soft drink for Marg served in an Andechs glass. What a pity everyone back home would be asleep. The Hector ensured they would know of this on waking up.

Marg was hungry. How elaborate was the wrapping for her doughnut? How many calories in the doughnut? Meanwhile, the Hector was enjoying a near perfect Bier, in the style!

Cuddle Puddle was either 6.0% or 6.7%, the given information was contradictory. On a blind tasting I would have guessed even lower it was a bit thin for the given abv.

This well Hazy IPA had a big hop hit: Cryo Citra, Idaho 7 and Galaxy. The juicy roundness of flavour was there. A delight, the temptation to stay for more, many more had to be resisted. More places to try.

It was a fifteen minute walk, mostly flat, to Standard Deviant Brewing in the evening sunshine. On the approach we passed a huge red brick building, some history. here The San Francisco Armory, built in the Moorish style, allegedly, is now an events centre.

Standard Deviant Brewing is a traditional industrial unit, a brewery, unlike those places which falsely claim to be. I liked the atmosphere here, getting served was not a issue despite the number of people present.

Hazy IPA, Brah? At 6.8% had the full haze for a Hazy IPA / NEIPA. This too tasted tropical, juicy and thin for the abv. It need a boost on the hoppiness and mouthfeel, nowhere near as good as that which had proceeded it.

Marg’s Cock’n Bull Ginger Beer proved to be a winner. This soft drink had bite, one to look out for.

Hector was not last out of Standard Deviant Brewing but had a departing photo taken just the same.

Conveniently, around the corner was the multi-tap bar – The Crafty Fox Alehouse – a proper pub. We took seats at the far end of the bar, a tactic that worked well at Suzie Wong’s Hideaway in Honolulu. Whilst the Hector got tore into some serious Bier drinking, Marg found herself deep in conversation with an Indian chap, Fargal.

First up was a Bier from Cellarmaker (San Francisco) visited in 2018. Citra Galaxy at 6.8% was on the board as a Hazy West Coast IPA. This is all becoming very confusing, do they mean this or is there just a block on using he term – New England? With a full haze, and associated hoppiness, it was only the sharpness that put it – West. With the barmaid onside, she came up with a CAN but the Hector was sticking with draught.

Papillon (Moonraker Brewing Company, Auburn, CA) at 6.8%, a NEDIPA was not holding back in terms of Haze and body. Still, the Hector was hoping for a bigger hop hit.

Meanwhile, Fargal was annotating Marg’s paper map with suggestions for walks and ice-cream. Whose trip is this? Some new Bier places I had spotted were evaluated, it looks as though we might be heading further west than anticipated. But on another day. Fargal was good company, it broke the monotony of just the two of us as we are scheduled to be for another couple of weeks.

A five Bier day, and US pints at best, not a huge intake. Time to plot the route home.

Bus 49 would take us due north leaving us blocks west of the hotel, a connecting bus was possible. This would save us the walk uphill and hopefully avoid the vagrant. Bus 49 was on time, however, Marg was not willing to wait for the connection, we had to walk. We were on Bush Street, one block higher than our hotel. At the corner of Mason Street was – The Summer Place – how inviting was this?

A late night bar, seconds from Hotel Amari and thereafter, downhill home. A comparatively quiet place, there was a Hazy, a final Bier for the night. Marg found a Baileys substitute, Carolans.

Hazy Train (Fieldwork Brewing Company, Berkley, CA) at 6.9% had the full milkshake haze, the hop hit, and was immediately enjoyable. With Mosaic and Amarillo this was ticking boxes, but was just a bit short of the – wow!. A good find in pleasant surroundings, not too loud music and ancient Bay Watch was on the TV.

Around midnight, the place filled up somewhat significantly, the party began, led by Marg no less. Aussies, Scousers, Mancunians and Scots, what more does one need? More Bier and Ersatz Baileys how many more, who cares.

A wild Saturday night in San Francisco, who would have thought?

Breweries, taproom, bars, restaurant visited today:

San Francisco Brewing Co. – 3150 Polk St, San Francisco, CA 94109

Fort Point Beer Company – @ Embarcadero – Ferry Building, One San Francisco Bay Trail #54, San Francisco, CA 94111

Standard Deviant Brewing – 280 14th Street, San Francisco, CA 94103

Wilkommen by Black Hammer Brewing Company – 2198 Market Street, San Francisco, CA 94114

The Crafty Fox Alehouse – 1700 Mission Street, San Francisco, CA 9410

Shalimar Restaurant – 532 Jones St, San Francisco, CA 94102

Day 47 – Sunday, May 5

Once again, there was no great desire to go out early. With a blue sky, today felt like a good day to visit Golden Gate Bridge. The Fargal nominated Golden Gate Park would mean going west also. The opperchancity of another Curry fell into my lap. I received a – Stop Press – from Curryspondent Bill. With Brothers everywhere, he had been trying to convince me that the best Curry to be had was across in Berkley/Oakland. However, – Five Rivers – on the south side of Golden Gate Park was the venue he was now championing.

Once again we headed down Powell Street to the BART and recharged our Clipper Cards. From there, Bus 13 would take us from Mission and Fifth to Golden Gate Bridge. Despite seeing the route in front of me, I still had it in my head that the bus would head along the waterfront. Having found the bus stop on the wrong side of the road it dawned on me.

Every bus but ours came. With quite a queue having formed, Bus 130 eventually limped towards us. Up and over the hill once again, Fillmore, a famous name associated with Humble Pie. Or is that Fillmore East? The bus stopped at the toll just before crossing the Bridge. Last time, Dr. Stan and I ended up going round the Presidio and had to walk quite a distance to get back here. We also went down to the water’s edge. Having done – the beach – Marg was happy not give away our altitude needlessly. There was no question about actually standing on the bridge itself, never mind walking out on it. Sydney Harbour Bridge was quite enough thank you.

How many photos does one take in the digital age? As many as necessary until – the one – is captured.

Bus 28 to Judah and 19^th, then Tram N three stops west, simples. We were all over the car park trying to find the bus stop, when Bus 28 appeared. We managed to get on, and sat back as we headed east, not south. People keep offering us seats, why? Having swapped to the correct Bus 28, the traffic queue though Golden Gate Park was ridiculous. Marg insisted we walk the last leg instead of waiting for the tram.

Five Rivers Indian Cuisine – aka – Mr. Singh – proved to be a major disappointment. Curry Bill had this wrong, or his family had. It’s also possible the true Chef was not present. Whatever, the reason, not a place to be recommended.

Ice-cream next, and this time the Hector had the plot for Tram N showing on Google Maps. There was a ramp, just how high was the tram door? As it happened, this was for wheelchair access.

Tram N dropped us round the corner from Hometown Creamery.

The queuing system was chaos, the wee girlies behind the counter, oblivious as to who was next. A gathering outside decided to bring their ice-cream back inside. Let’s claim the seats, not use them, block the passage. Had nobody ever seen a baby in pram before? As for the ice-cream, it was OK.

Hector the irritable, that’s what happens when Curry lets one down.

Having done Fargal’s ice-cream, it was time for Fargal’s park. Golden Gate Park is quite a bit south of the Bridge. A decidedly linear park, it runs east-west. It took some time to ascertain which were roads and which were paths on Google Maps. The Botanical Garden was Marg’s first objective. It was closed. Late Sunday afternoon, who goes to a park on a Sunday?

We took in some of the music at the impressive bandstand. The atmosphere was heavily polluted with the smoke of a certain, now legal, substance which we have been encountering since arriving in Honolulu. It’s everywhere. Is everyone in USA now – high?

Fargal had mentioned The Panhandle, an even narrower strip of greenery protruding from the east side of Golden Gate Park. As we headed along this, Marg spotted a – wolf! Do they have urban wolves in San Francisco? Coyote – as quite a few signs warned – leave them alone, but report them if seemingly aggressive. As with the vagrant, we did not interact.

Does anyone collect ducks? Quite a muriel (sic), dedicated to the San Francisco Fire Department. SFFD like to make themselves visible across the city.

Barrel Head Brewhouse lies to the north of The Panhandle, Magnolia Brewing – Haight to the south.

Hector had already picked out two venues on Haight for this afternoon/evening. Having visited Woods Polk Station in 2018, today it was the turn of Woods Lowside.

Woods Lowside is another taproom for Woods Beer & Wine Company, the brewery is to the east towards the Mission District.

Water was the most important thing to arrange, available on a help yourself basis at the rear. It had been a long walk to get here. After Curry, a Cider often replenishes a thirst better than Bier.

Dry Cider Sonoma Blend at 8.5% totally hit the spot. This may well have been the driest Cider ever. Sensibly, there was only the one.

The Fuzz at 6.5% was a much more sensible affair. The full milkshake haze and a big hop hit. Strata hops and a bit of what I call the Polish aftertaste stopped this being right on the button. Still, damn good.

Across the street lies Toronado.

Dr. Stan insisted we visit this Belgian-style bar in 2018, I believed Marg would enjoy something more familiar. Cash only – said a chap on our side of the bar as we entered. Yes, I know. Here was the opperchancity to use some of the Dollars left over from 2018. I also learned back then to leave the change on the bar. That is how it is done.

Another chap, sitting mid bar, appeared to know everyone. Was he the owner, manager, or possibly the chap who appears in the blurry photo posted here from 2018? Also, was he controlling the music. I did not expect to hear Alcest and so much – shoegaze – in this place. There turned out to be a jukebox, quality collection.

Electric Lettuce (Moonraker Brewing Company, Auburn CA / Alvarado Street Brewing, Monterey CA) at 8.5% was quite a collaboration. This NEDIPA had the full milkshake haze and body to match. Mosaic and Citra hops featured, this was truly excellent. There might have been another.

I had to approach Mr. Popular, he confirmed the fuzzy photo was of our barman this evening, hence the photo.

Bus 7 from Haight & Fillmore took us back to Powell Street. Having had quite a quiet day Bier-wise, I suggested we stop off at the local from 2018 – Bartlett Hall.

The place was almost empty. I suspect the hotel upstairs maintains the business, the Bier remains from yesteryear.

Whilst Goofy Boots at 5.9% impressed back in 2018, tastes have move on from the West Coast.

Crash Bang, Wallop at 6.3%, another West Coast IPA, was clear with presumably a high IBU. Citra, Elani and Freestyle Nelson hops were employed to brew this distinctly dry Bier.

The Hector was last out.

Marg was still awake. With a three block walk uphill to Hotel Amari, or one more to The Summer Place, well…

We were recognised on entry. The drinks order remained the same, the same stool was taken. It looks like we have a local. Fortunately or otherwise, the mob from last night had gone elsewhere. A sensible climax to the evening.

Breweries, brewery tap, bars, restaurant and cafe visited today:

Bartlett Hall / Bartlett Brewing Co. – 242 O’Farrell St, San Francisco, CA 94102

Woods Lowside – 530 Haight Street, San Francisco, CA 94117

Toronado – 547 Haight St, San Francisco, CA 94117

The Summer Place – 801 Bush Street, San Francisco, CA 94108

Five Rivers Indian Cuisine – 2245 Judah St, San Francisco, CA 94122

San Francisco’s Hometown Creamery – 1290 9th Avenue, San Francisco, CA 94122

Day 48 – Monday, May 6^th

Today, Alcatraz, however, the sea lions at Pier 39 were probably just as interesting for Marg.

A bright, occasionally sunny day, but still windy. With a boat scheduled at 14.00, still the extra outer layer. San Francisco remains unseasonably cool.

Having walked past Union Square, today we took the opperchancity to actually have a photo or two to record its proximity to our accommodation. Tram F then sped us towards then along the waterfront to Pier 39.

Marg was hungry. The fruit stall was the first stop. Having walked the length of Pier 39, which felt like a theme from an imaginary western, we chose another Boudin Bakery outlet for brunch.

Toast and jam for Marg, who may have sneaked in an earlier snack, the Hector stayed healthy, and moist.

We could hear the sea lions before we saw them. This was Dunedin on steroids, such happy chaps. Whatever time we had to kill before our scheduled ferry was taken care of.

It was a short walk back to the Alcatraz ferry terminal. I found the Liberty Ship which was berthed beside the submarine back in 2018.

For reasons unknown, we were not permitted to take our guns on the boat. Maybe we could buy some when we reached the island.

The USA is short on history, yet this infamous island surely captures the imagination of those of us who grew up with Burt Lancaster as The Birdman of Alcatraz and Clint Eastwood’s – Escape from Alcatraz. Even Sean Connery and Nicolas Cage made The Rock here in 1996.

Established as a prison in 1934, Al Capone, an early guest, completed only 4.5 years of his life sentence on this island before syphilitic brain damage saw him transferred to another penitentiary. Charming as Burt Lancaster may have potraid the charcter, Stroud was not a pleasant chap.

The prison itself did not last thirty years. As Frank Morris, Clint Eastwood’s character proved, the place was crumbling. Weathering.

Hector on another boat. At least the journey was short. A National Park Ranger gave his spiel before letting us loose. His main advice, make sure we don’t miss the last ferry back. He didn’t tell us what the consequences might be.

With the portable audio guide around our necks, we headed round the cells. In time we took our own route, outside to the exercise yard, long before we were due to. In time we saw the cells of the famous, however, the dining hall certainly captured the imagination. Whilst the showers may not have been safe, here people were issued with weapons three times a day. So it goes.

The exterior photos captured Golden Gate Bridge in the distance plus the nearby mainland. So near, yet so far. Cold water, no chance of surviving the swim, they say.

Native Americans, Indians even, briefly occupied Alcatraz in 1964, the year after it closed, before a two year occupation in 1969. There was a movie/slide show outlining this. There was hope of some more video on the villains, but not today.

Never take the last boat, a sound tactic. This photo I find quire evocative, all that is San Francisco. I shall entitle it – Sweet Freedom.

Back on dry land, Colt Tower, possibly San Francisco’s equivalent of La Tour Eiffel, is still on the list of things to do, tomorrow.

Hector was hungry. Brandy Ho’s Hunan Food was visited in 2018, easily the best Chinese food ever eaten. The place was empty as we entered late afternoon. The chap serving insisted he was there in 2018 and so must have served me last time. Hot & Sour Soup, Smoked Duck Hunanese, why change a winning formula? The Hector was due a break after the test of endurance on Day 12 at Spice Paradise (Sydney). Alas, this was not to be. Not as Spicy, however, the smokiness was off the scale. Schlenkerla Urbock (Bamberg, Bayern) this was no.

The Hector can tolerate extreme smokiness, this was beyond acceptable, to the point of being unpleasant. The quality of the Meat itself was also in doubt. This was not a good experience.

Meanwhile, across the table, Marg had Dumplings and a more sensible Hunan dish. One of us enjoyed their dinner.

Around the corner lies The Baked Bear, an ice-cream shop. A palate cleanser was required. Chewy ice-cream, not the best.

Thereafter, the obligatory walk through Chinatown.

There may have been no laurel or hearty welcome, but after waiting an extraordinary amount of time, the required photo was captured. Another classic example of people not being aware of what is happening around them.

Bier o’clock. Two new breweries on the agenda today, located on either side of Panhandle which we walked along yesterday. Bus 6 took us from Market Street to the door of Magnolia Brewing – Haight.

Magnolia Brewing appeared to be no more than a brewery tap, a diner even. It took until the time of writing to establish that the brew plant is in the basement. Nobody mentioned this, but the staff were otherwise pleasant. Cold water was a welcome thirst quencher before getting down to business.

Hazy IPA at 6.7%, a NEIPA by any other name, was a worthy choice. The full milkshake haze was here, as was the big hop hit. Luminosa and #1019 hops were new to me. If any criticism is due, the body felt a bit thin for the abv, but still, an enjoyable Bier.

It was a few blocks north to brewery #2, Barrel Head Brewhouse. Crossing Panhandle, no coyote today. From the moment we entered Barrel Head there was a feeling that we were in the way of the locals. Wearing my invisibility cloak, it took some time to get served. The Bier on offer was of yesteryear.

My Biguana at 7.8% featured the dreaded Talus, fortunately this was not noticeable. The Mosaic and Simcoe hops had drown this out. Yellow, clear and mellow for what was a West Coast IPA, not bad, but not what was hoped for.

Bus 5 took us back to Powell Street, and the climb once more past the hotel to The Summer Place. We’ve found our local, the staff knew the Order. Hazy Train is a fine way to finish the day.

Breweries, restaurant and cafes visited today:

Magnolia Brewing – Haight – 1398 Haight Street, San Francisco, CA 94117

Barrel Head Brewhouse – 1785 Fulton Street, San Francisco, CA 94117

The Summer Place – 801 Bush Street, San Francisco, CA 94108

Brandy Ho’s Hunan Food – 217 Columbus Ave, San Francisco, CA 94133

Boudin Bakery Cafe – Pier 39, Beach Street Spaces 5-Q, San Francisco, CA 94133

The Baked Bear – 303 Columbus Avenue, San Francisco

Day 49 – Tuesday, May 7^th

Whilst Marg was out for her morning exercise, where awareness and confidence had taken her as far as Embarcadero, the Hector was considering the next flight. Alaska Airlines once again will not permit an on-line check-in. I did find a chat link on their app and so engaged an agent. The full story of our being ripped off at Honolulu Aiport was related. A refund was duly promised, and a note added to our booking to facilitate our check-in for tomorrow’s flight to Seattle. A good start to our final day in San Francisco, and an awareness, that this is it. There shall be no return.

Having spotted Aquarium of the Bay on previous visits to Fisherman’s Wharf – Pier 39, Marg was not for leaving San Francisco without taking this in. Kelly Tarlton’s original SEA LIFE back in Auckland has but whetted the appetite, not sickened.

The daily ritual of topping up the Clipper card was once more completed at Powell Street. We are now confident that we should not be leaving excess Dollars on the Clipper when we leave San Francisco.

It was back to Boudin’s Bakery for brunch. Chowder, finally.

Alas, Marg did not pick up on the difference between Chowder and the full on Fish Chowder. It took an extra mass of butter to finish the bread. Enjoyable as it was, it could have been more.

The Hector is not doing so well for food presently, a Curry is overdue.

Aquarium of the Bay was pretty much the same as the Auckland original, except having climbed the exterior stairs, one takes an elevator back down to ground level.

Fish we had seen already, but here there be otters. Two, plural was accurate.

Megabucks for this, at least the sea lions were still free, as was the bird show.

And now for today’s challenge. Colt Tower, the landmark shown in every American TV programme set in this city. Starting at sea level, it was quite a climb to the base of the tower. On arrival, there was the suggestion that it was closed already. Tickets were bought, and there was no discount given that the elevator was not working.

High places, a recurring theme, and now a climb. We were asked to ensure that we did not rub against the walls as we climbed the spiral staircase, mustn’t destroy the muriels (sic).

Having taken our photos, the lady supervisor insisted she taken our photo with a special lighting effect. A pity she couldn’t do anything about the unflattering profile. Hector is not fading away despite the number of steps being recorded each day.

The walk back down towards Embarcadero included interesting flights of stairs. Much easier going down than up. At the tram stop, we were engaged by a couple who work at the nearby Levi Strauss corporate office. Our World Tour intrigued, as did the tour polo shirt. Not having it embroidered in English was a wise choice.

The trams were all full and so we walked back to get a bus which would connect with Bus 67. Barebottle Brewing at Bernal Heights was to be the final San Francisco brewery visited.

Bernal Heights, suitably high and the roads decidedly steep. Whilst the driver negotiated obstacles, Marg and Hector were treated to details of the intimate lifestyle of three young ladies. Loud voices, no shame, the American way.

Barebottle Brewing is big. With an impressive array of taps, Bier for all. The Hector even had options. A quiz was underway. American sport, sorry sports, no chance. Anything else, no problem. Then there was the wall of puggies and other amusements. It was all happening here. Had it been quieter, I would have stayed for a second Bier, Barebottle I liked.

Surf Detective at 7.3%, A Hazy IPA, or NEIPA in the real World, had the full milkshake haze and a decent hop hit. Mosaic, Amarillo and Sabro were the hops. The Sabro may have been responsible for the pineapple hit. This took the edge off perfection.

Hop Oats Pub & Brewery was intended to be the next venue, but sources convinced me there was nothing of interest on offer. Bus 9 took us back to our patch. Why this more direct route had not showed up earlier puzzles. Similar sources also convinced me that Hotel Adagio, a couple of blocks from our own hotel, had a decent range.

Marg was hungry. A portion of three Fish Tacos made Hector’s Buffalo Wings look a bit insignificant. It was a miracle that we secured these. The bar at Hotel Adagio was full of suits, seating was minimal. A high table was offered by the chap who served us initially, he disappeared and we relocated to a more comfortable locus. In keeping with our bus journey, a chap was regaling the entire bar with details of his life that we had no interest in. I pity his lady collleague who had to hear all this, and do the noddies.

Marg had Dessert. She was doing alright.

The Bier options were nothing like what I had been led to believe. Cool Kidz Calicraft Brewing Co. (Walnut Creek CA, USA) at 7.2%, an AIPA was the only Bier worthy of consideration. An OK haze, no more than a sense of hops, I wasn’t even sure if I had been given the correct Bier. I asked about cans in the fridge, Doris behind the bar had no knowledge of these.

Knowing where a good Bier was guaranteed, we headed up the hill. Did I pay for my Bier at Adagio? The tip probably covered it.

And so for the final Bier in San Francisco. Hazy Train (Fieldwork Brewing Company, Berkley, CA) at 6.9% simply ticks all the boxes. Whilst giving it an OK score on the first night, this has been upgraded. Mosaic and Amarillo doing their job.