Day 58 – Thursday, May 16th Las Vegas to Chicago
Seattle WA to Vancouver (Canada) was the original concept for this trip, not to be. Five nights in Chicago was the fallback option. On the California 2000 school trip, I was offered big money by the airline not to fly back to Glasgow with the kids. That would have been hard to explain to the parents. A first free night in Chicago as an adult was not to be.
With a midday flight to Chicago, we avoided both the early rise or having to hang about all day before heading to Las Vegas Harry Reid International. The Uber from Excalibur was appreciably less than the reverse journey. Our driver, an interesting lady, is/was an event organiser, yet was still putting in hours driving people around Las Vegas.
Flight AA1490 (11.51 – 17.33), the two hour time difference meant a flight of under four hours, plenty of time to get more writing done. Our first of two flights with American Airlines, as with Alaskan, their app wouldn’t let us check-in online, at least they honoured our baggage allowance.
Baggage reclaim at O’Hare International was in the depths, further complicated by ongoing works. Is any airport actually finished? Chicago Transit Authority, time to embrace another travel card, this time – Ventra. The $5.00 fee for the card would be refunded once the card was registered.
The Blue Line took us towards the city. I had time to work out that we needed to change to the Red Line at either Monroe or Jackson. Monroe came first, a good choice. The Transit Police informed us that the Red Line was off northbound, an incident. A bus was suggested, but given the throng when we found the stop, Marg insisted we walk the few blocks our hotel – Freehand Chicago.
Freehand Chicago, a – trendy hostel with a bar and cafe. The Downtown location is why I chose it. So imposing was the entrance, we walked past it. The room was small, comparable to San Francisco, the elevator old, rickety. The bar at the entrance had nothing to keep me, however, to the rear of the building was a substantial bar and seating area. Freehand would do.
Chicago Pizza, Deep Pan Pizza, Hector’s favourite, a reminder that Marg has forbidden me to order Pizza in Italia. It was the time and place to sample the American version, at source. Pizzeria Uno, where – Deep Dish Pizza – was created, just happened to be on the same block as our hotel.
Who planned this trip?
Dusk, not that warm, those who had to were sat outside. Inside was stowed, a popular place. I was surprised that we were not turned away, instead we secured a small table near the door.
The individual pizza was not on, we would share the medium. A pizza without black olives ain’t a Pizza, and so we negotiated the main event. Marg, who might have been hungry, managed to add a complex salad to the order. More Pizza for Hector.
Hector’s first Bier in Chicago was local: Son of Juice (Maplewood Brewing, Chicago IL) at 6.3% was the only NEIPA on tap. Imagine a UK Pizza chain serving New England style Bier! Suitably hazy, the hop hit could have been more, still, there was nought wrong here. Mosaic, Mosaic Cryo, Simcoe, Simcoe Cryo and Nugget, were the hops.
This would be the only Bier of the day, so almost a teetotal day?
The Pepperoni Pizza was topped with abundant black olives and green peppers. It looked the part, how misleading was this? This would be Hector’s first and last Chicago Pizza. Why? Because it wasn’t Pizza, but biscuit. The whole point of Deep Pan is thick dough, so where was this invented?
It was a chilly evening outside in Chicago, especially after the comfort of Las Vegas. We retraced our steps down N State St towards Chicago River. We found the Red Line entrance to Grand on our block, Hector had plans for this tomorrow.
Having reversed the flow, Lake Michigan drains into Chicago River. The riverside skyline seemed slightly familiar. As with San Francisco, Chicago feels like a proper city, I had never planned to come here, pizza aside, there was an air of optimism, five nights may well be justified.
Back at the hotel, I fetched my netbook and chargers and retreated to the grand seating area and bar on the ground floor. Other guests were like minded. Not a bad place to chill, a pity the water to hand, was not.
Restaurant and hotel bar visited today:
Pizzeria Uno – 29 E Ohio Street, Chicago, IL 60611
Freehand Chicago – 19 E Ohio Street, Chicago, IL 60611
Day 59 – Friday, May 17th
Chicago in daylight, a blank canvas, a day to be tourists. After her early morning exercise venture Downtown, Marg returned appreciating the location of our modest accommodation and insistent that we do a boat trip. High places and boats, here we go again.
Before all that, there was a journey on the Red Line to the north of the city where the Hector had identified the motherlode of Curry. En route we passed Wrigley Field, the Chicago Cubs baseball ground. Some had suggested we visit this, why? Professional rounders, not a real sport. There was a particularly handsome chap on the metro.
Alighting at Loyola University, we took Bus 155 westwards – Devon & Campbell.
Devon Avenue was everything I hoped for, restaurants aplenty, I could even narrow these down to Pakistani. Alas, being early Friday afternoon, choice #1 was closed – Friday prayers. Heading back east, there was a fallback, Sabri Nihari, this was grander than Hector’s preferred Curry Cafe venues, needs must.
The food was wonderful, authentic Punjabi Fayre, and Marg’s Fish choice was way larger than the snack she hoped for. That would sate the appetite, for a while.
Back Downtown, Marg led me to the quay where the river boats ply their trade. Marg seemed to have a particular vessel in mind, nevertheless, we ended up with tickets for – Chicago’s Classic Lady, leaving soon.
Being warm enough to sit up front, we sat outside. Who planned this trip such that we would reach mainland USA when winter would have passed in the Mid-West?
The boat journey was all about the architecture, the voice on the tannoy was a retired architect, city planner, what would he know? He knew everything, and was honest when it came to the brutality of the 1960s.
Built along more classical lines, the Wrigley Building was a standout. We resisted booing as we passed a certain former US President’s Tower, twice.
The bridges constructed in the style of – trunnion bascule – are part of Chicago‘s character. The Kinzie Street railroad bridge may be permanently raised, it remains fully functional, as are the rest.
Having sat up front, well it wasn’t a ‘plane journey, we were able to secure quality photos without obstruction. Our guide took his well deserved bow at the end of the journey.
Back on dry land we headed along the Riverwalk. A refreshment was required, Marg had already located Chicago Brewhouse.
A bar-restaurant, with the majority sitting outside, we managed to acquire a table indoors. The service was abysmal, it was clear some staff had no idea what they were about. The Hector was already miffed, Brewhouse by name, not by nature. Why do so many venues claim to be brewpubs?
With no Bier to be had at source, I decided to maintain my custom of after Curry, comes Cider.
Rose Cider (Northman Cider Co., Chicago IL) at 6.5% was made from Michigan apples and Midwestern grapes, so part wine. Rose tinted, it was dry, had a decent body and was quite refreshing. Serving it in plastic did not go down too well.
The Green Line took us a couple of stops to Adams/Wabash. Our walk thereafter took us past a crowd of undesirables, Industry Ales Brewpub was the objective. If there was a brewery plant here, it was well hidden, but sources do include a photo of this.
Downtown in the Chicago Loop, this was quite a pukka establishment, as much a cocktail bar as a restaurant. Being here for drinks only, we were guided to bar stools. I would have headed there anyway, more chance of finding out about the place, as it happens, I have little more information.
With six house Biers and a further four guests on tap, at least the Hazy was from Industry Ales.
Marg had water, unless my Bier choice was wonderful, I didn’t feel we would be staying long.
Out of Focus (Industry Ales, Chicago IL) a Hazy IPA at 5.0% might be flattered by the photo. This Bier lacked the full haze but packed a hoppy punch. Citra, Sabro and HBC 472 were the hops. There was nothing wrong here, the body was decent for the abv, as ever, I was looking for something better.
Franklin Tap lay six blocks west. Instead of journeying two stops anticlockwise on the Loop, we walked. An opperchancity to see more of Chicago at street level.
Franklin Tap was everything the two previous venues were not. 100 Craft Beers – advertised, large, spacious, and most of all – welcoming. Our table was close enough to the bar to see the action, and also get served.
Our waiter was up for the challenge of making Hector happy, he knew the Bier, with two taps standing out, directions were given, then there was the list of cans. How long would Marg last?
First up: Juicy Bits (WeldWerks Brewing Co., Greely CO) a NEIPA at 6.7% featured Mosaic, Citra and Eldorado. With the full milkshake haze and a body to match the abv, the mouthfeel was spoiled partly by the sharpness. The required hop hit was present. Had I stuck with this, the palate would have adjusted, and subsequently, I may have celebrated this Bier more, but choices…
Marg was hungry, and so Chips and Guacamole would accompany her Ginger Ale. I may have helped here.
Shower Thoughts (Old Irving Brewing Co., Chicago IL), a NEDIPA at 8.5% had the rights US hops: Nectaron, Citra and Mosaic. Fruity, rather than hoppy, this was not the perfect Bier. Again, more might have altered this viewpoint. More was possible, our second night in Chicago, the feet were planted under the table; too often on this trip it has been have a Bier and move on, not tonight.
One can stood out in the extensive list of possibilities, our waiter could see where I was heading.
Placeholder Text (Phase Three Brewing Company, Elmhurst IL) a DDH-NEIPA at 8.0% is what I had been looking for. Here was a perfectly balanced hoppy Bier, the flavours being right in the style. Poured properly by Hector, the full milkshake haze was attained, this was smooth, wonderful. The hops: Citra, Enigma, Galaxy, El Dorado and Mosaic. Straight five! – as someone back home is prone to saying.
*
*
Marg ordered a Franklin Mule, Hector was going nowhere anytime soon.
Having had yesterday off, and to some extent, the day before also, another two of these were accrued. A pity the brewery was so far away.
Despite ordering on my phone, the staff were always attentive. I did like having the bill to keep.
The twelve minute walk to the Red Line at Jackson was painless. This was a good day, but then how many have not been? Two days ago we were flying over Grand Canyon, every day, every Bier, is different.
Brewery, bars and restaurant visited today:
Industry Ales Brewpub – 230 S Wabash Ave, Chicago, IL 60604
Chicago Brewhouse – 31 W Riverwalk, Chicago’s Riverwalk, Chicago, IL 60601-1730
Franklin Tap – 325 S Franklin St, Chicago, IL 60606
Sabri Nihari Restaurant – 2502 W Devon Ave, Chicago, IL 60659
Day 60 – Saturday, May 18th
Day 60, the three quarter mark, life on the road has become the norm. at least the third day in Chicago means we know our way around, and there’s no more flying until Tuesday. Today it was time to indulge Marg, the free zoo at Abraham Lincoln Park to the north of us, was a bit too far to walk. Bus 22 at nearby Dearborn & Grand took us to Clark & Lincoln, one could kinda tell we were in the right place on alighting.
I don’t know how many bird photos I have taken since arriving in Singapore almost two months ago. The basking turtles were something different.
Before heading to the north end of the park and the actual zoo, there was the Ulysses S. Grant Monument and the Chicago skyline behind us.
On reaching the zoo perimeter, we headed west, across another pond lay a pit-stop, Café Brauer.
Finding the entrance was a frustrating challenge, no not this way. Thereafter, we were treated to a display of total indifference by the serving staff. I have oft wondered how check-in and despatch staff at airports can man their posts and never make eye contact with those waiting. Café Brauer may well be their training school. Eventually, we established there was no room at the inn and so headed next door to The Ice Cream Shoppe. There are no prizes for guessing what was purchased.
Zoo time, given that it was free there can be no complaints. After Honolulu Zoo the Hector was not keen on spending needless funds to see animals already seen. I correct myself, at Honolulu Zoo, animals not seen.
No giraffes, Marg’s favourite, the rhinoceros had to suffice.
The apes stole the show.
Actually, my lasting memory of this zoo visit was the pond life. An extended family appeared to be on the same route, at the same pace, we couldn’t shake them off. I don’t understand why when visiting a zoo, one’s denims have to be at half mast. An underwear sponsor? The females in the entourage were needlessly – loud. We heard their inane comments whether we wanted to or not. The weans were out of control, save the over-sized one in a pram. Pond life, but maybe a higher class of citizen than those featuring in what follows.
Some Like it Hot – what an educational movie. Apart from introducing a very young Hector to the joy of Marilyn Monroe, this movie also made me aware of Chicago for the first time, and what made it famous: The Saint Valentine’s Day Massacre, The Mob. I had planned the day such that we would walk back and take in the site of the Massacre. Prohibition, down with that sort of thing. Al Capone, we visited his temporary home at Alcatraz. In Las Vegas, I eschewed The Mob Museum on the assumption that Chicago would offer more. I got that all wrong.
The death toll, seven. At the OK Corral it was three. American mainland history, more are taken out in random shootings in the current era. The garage at 2122 N Clark St, where the machine guns did their job, has long gone. The site is open ground, but a chalk mark on the pavement gave a clue. 2120 N Clark St remains.
Marg was hungry. When this daily declaration is made, the Hector has ten minutes to find an appropriate menu. Being mid afternoon, not everywhere was open yet. Two doors down from 2120 was Ricardo Enotica, an Italian restaurant, Marg’s favourite.
The restaurant was just opening, the young lady who greeted us at the door to the empty premises asked if we had a reservation. A table on the pavement was offered, no way, Pedro. She was for turning us away, the Hector was not having this. A chap realised he was about to lose business, the window table was ours, as long as we were off within the hour. How fast can you serve us?
We both had Carbonara, served by – Hector – tasty.
Lake Michigan, it was time to go to the beach and so back through Lincoln Park. I still don’t think Marg believes that this is fresh water. The police were searching all those who crossed the bridge over Dusable Lakeshore Drive, no booze on the beach. I suppose grass, marram or otherwise, was OK? We walked down North Avenue Beach to the Pier which resembled a recumbent spit. From here, the Chicago skyline was an irresistible view.
It was approaching Bier o’ clock, a few venues between our current locus and home were en route. How does this keep happening? We walked west then south through what is now called the Old Town, a pukka area, so much for Burgess’ Concentric Urban Model. If one could afford a hotel in this area, I would recommend it. A Saturday afternoon, there was the buzz of city life.
Old Town Pour House boasted – 30+ local taps – there must be something here worthy of the Hector.
A large premises, comparable to a Wetherspoons, we were seated at a high table on the bar side of the room. The welcome water went down well, but it took some effort to secure it. A dizzy waitress.
Space Dust (Elysian Brewing Company, Seattle WA) was hardly local. A gold IPA with a chill haze at 8.3% and a whopping 73 IBU, was stepping back in time. This was a proper dry tasting West Coast IPA, the hops, Amarillo.
Starting with a big hitter, Marg was relieved when I said one here was enough.
Continuing south and back on Clark Street, the Clark St Ale House, it was busy. We squeezed on to stools at the bar, from there, getting served would not be a problem.
Le Griffon (Hidden Hand, Naperville IL & Old Irving Brewing Co., Chicago IL) is a Hazy IPA / NEIPA. With the full milkshake haze, and a big hop hit, this was smooth, delicious. The hops: Nectaron, HBC 586 and Amarillo. Yesterday’s Old Irving brew was a bit short of being stunning, today’s got the straight five!
Having found this splendid Bier, there’s the inevitable thought of more. The ongoing activities at the rear of the room made this unlikely. We moved to a table near the door, away from the noise and particularly loud females. How long had they been out?
With Centennial Crafted Beer and Eatery just around the corner, there was further incentive to move along.
Sat at the bar, thirty six taps to choose from, two NEIPAs. I’ll never know if I chose the better one.
Gummypalooza (Noon Whistle Brewing Co., Naperville IL) a Hazy IPA / NEIPA at 6.7% had the full milkshake haze and a substantial body. This was easy drinking despite the sharp mouthfeel. Citra, Cashmere, Idaho 7 and Sabro were the hops. A second Bier from a Naperville brewery, looks like this could be town worth visiting.
Three bars, it was time to have a Bier at source. Along from our hotel, Freehand Chicago, which we could now see the full extent of the building, as in upwards, lies Crushed By Giants Brewing Company. The escalator on the first floor, second floor in USA, was like visiting a mall cinema.
This was the largest Chicago venue visited yet. Given the crowds we had left, this place was eerily quiet. Again, a seat at the bar, the brewing plant was in sight, a proper brewpub.
Neon Werewolf, a Hazy IPA at 6.8% had the haze but not the body. Too thin for the abv, this Bier could be put in the dangerous category, too easy to swallow. The brewery tasting notes claim a – soft mouthfeel – then this is not what I seek in a NEIPA. Citra and Simcoe are reportedly the hops.
The choices here were not great. Something made me go west once again, mouthwash or just the need for a goodnight Bier?
User Error, a 8.3% DIPA was amber, clear and had an almost burnt flavour, not smoky. Mosaic, Galaxy and Cashmere were present, an abuse of hops? – was recorded as I drank this.
The Bier count was now five, American pints, there was still life in the old Hector. Marg too, was it the sight of Bally’s Casino that had Marg accompany me past the door to our hotel?
Snickers Bar & Grill opens early and closes late, it was tempting to have a marathon session here. A – dive bar – is how the Americans call such venues, as was Suzy Wong’s Hideaway back in Honolulu HI.
We found seats at a window table with decent views of the TVs which, for once, was showing proper sport.
This would keep Marg amused, as did the Baileys which had subliminally, or otherwise been planted in Marg’s consciousness. Else, she was watered out.
There was a long list of Bier I did not want to drink. The cans had something familiar.
Son of Juice (Maplewood Brewing, Chicago IL) at 6.3% was had two nights ago at Pizzeria Uno.
I persuaded the compliant waitress that I should pour my own. Poured properly, here was a NEIPA. I knew this Bier had potential, now the Hector was happy, and today’s underlying frustration was tempered. It appears The Famous officially came second in the SPL today. There’s always the Scottish Cup Final.
Let’s have another Son of Juice.
Brewery, bars, restaurant and cafe visited today:
Crushed By Giants Brewing Company – 600 N Michigan Ave 2nd Floor, Chicago, IL 60611
Old Town Pour House – 1419 N Wells St, Chicago, IL 60610
Clark St Ale House – 742 N Clark St, Chicago, IL 60610
Centennial Crafted Beer and Eatery – 733 N La Salle Dr, Chicago, IL 60654
Snickers Bar & Grill – 448 N State St, Chicago, IL 60654
The Ice Cream Shoppe – 2012 N Stockton Drive, Chicago, IL 60614
Ricardo Enotica – 2116 N Clark St, Chicago, IL 60614
Day 61 – Sunday, May 19th
Day 62 – Monday, May 20th
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