Day 68 – Sunday, May 26th Toronto ON to Boston MA
Back to the USA! With the 10.25 Porter Airlines flight from Billy Bishop Toronto City Airport (YTZ) to Boston Logan International Airport (BOS), there was an early rise. Helen and Joe drove us from Etobicoke to Downtown Toronto through the emptiness one would expect on a Sunday morning. Joe had told me that there’s a tunnel to YTZ, I hadn’t picked up that the drop off is on the mainland, one then descends in an elevator and walks through the tunnel to the terminal.
Farewell and thanks, five nights accommodation was much appreciated, especially with the knowledge of what lies ahead.
This was our final check-in with any concern about the total weight of luggage, after today, shop, shop, shop. Some ladies in the queue appeared not to know how to check in for a flight. Foreigners.
The view from the terminal on Toronto Islands afforded a final glimpse of the CN Tower and Downtown Toronto, more as we took off in the De Havilland Dash 8-400. A ninety minute flight in another prop-job. From today, until home-time, is the longest stretch of this sojourn without setting foot in an airport. By now, we must have spent two full days in departure lounges.
Terminal E, international arrivals, it was a surprisingly smooth re-entry to USA, no fingerprints this time, we are in the system. The MBTA’s Silver Line 1 (SL1) shuttle bus departs regularly from Terminal E heading to South Station. It’s free! The Charlie Card could wait.
Exiting from the bowels of South Station, the walk along Summer St. took us to Devonshire St. and Club Quarters Hotel Faneuil Hall. Only the $292.00 per night, such is the cost of staying in Downtown Boston. With a short queue at reception, we wheeled our bags beyond to the residents lounge.
Lord Clive and Lady Maggie of Crawley, plus Dr. Stan had arrived last night. My suggestion, rather than have us lose today by waiting for them. Hugs, even the Good Doctor. Let – The Bier Trip – begin!
For reasons unknown, Clive, who always asks for the penthouse suite, asked the check-in Doris to tell us our room was not ready. He didn’t know I had already advised of our 14.00 arrival. Doris had an upgrade for us. Clive was miffed.
Hector’s Day Off
We were quorate. Not only was there the joy at meeting up with friends, there was the knowledge that by now, Dr. Stan would have worked out where we were going today. Hereafter, no chance.
Downtown Crossing, our local Metro station was minutes from the hotel. A twenty four hour Charlie Ticket was duly purchased, Hector leading the way when it came to the purchase of tickets for all. Well the day off didn’t last long. The Red Line took us to Kendal/MIT. MIT, my first Bier in Massachusetts would therefore be in Cambridge, not Boston.
To reach Cambridge Brewing Company, we had to walk through the world of academia.
Fancy having a microbrewery on one’s campus. But not for long, it closes at the end of the year
Despite abundant seating indoors, somehow we fond ourselves sitting outside. OK when there’s shade.
The waitress was most welcoming and patient, allowing Clive to have all Bier and food menus read and explained. The next ten days shall be thus, and the pace of walking, decidedly – pedestrian.
Marg was hungry, and so food was ordered.
Being sensible, we all ate. The Hector had Fish & Fries, Marg a Mediterranean concoction, no olives.
Problem Child (Cambridge Brewing Company) at 5.75%, a NEIPA. Hector’s first NEIPA in New England! How more – at source – could a Bier be?
With the full milkshake haze, this Bier was relatively thin for its abv. There was a sense of hoppiness, and nobody was admitting what they were.
It was fully a ten minute walk through Cambridge to Lamplighter Brewing Co.
A much busier venue, the setup was along more contemporary lines.
Birds of a Feather (Lamplighter Brewing Co) at 6.8% was heading in the right direction. Another NEIPA with the full milkshake haze and the favoured Mosaic hops, this was a coming together of loveliness.
Already, the model for this trip has changed. No more – one Bier and move on, hopefully. I have been in training for 67 days, actually I was worried that I could still face Bier at this stage. For Hector, the opperchancity of – more of the same – however, Dr. Stan will always try the quirky. Life is too short.
The Red Line took us back from Central to Park Street on the north-east side of Boston Common. No doubt, this park will feature in the coming days. Cheers – lies on the opposite side.
Democracy Brewing was due to close at 20.00, and didn’t they let us know it.
Body Language (Democracy Brewing), how apposite, at 6.6% was listed as a Hazy IPA. So, we’re back in this non-committal world. A dark gold, muddy haze is not what the Hector came to New England to drink. The was a concern about astringency even before the tasting. It was present, but bearable. With Citra hops, this was not wonderful.
Hector was last out.
Somehow, last night, the new arrivals found their way to Trillium – Fort Point, which had been open until midnight, but was closing at 22.00 this evening.
Back on Summer Street, bearings were being acquired as we crossed the water and headed towards the piers which lie directly across from the airport.
With so little prior knowledge about this city, we had chosen a decent location for our first Boston hotel.
Trillium was stowed, choices aplenty. Just the nine IPAs, but which were West Coast, which New England? As the end of the day was approaching, it was time to go high.
Mettle (Trillium Brewing Co) is a 8.4% DNEIPA. The full milkshake haze was complemented by a body which matched this abv. With Citra, Amarillo and Columbus hops, this Bier lacked both the smoothness and hoppy blast to make it a winner.
Trillium was quite a venue. Cans were a major feature, with an entire board outlining what was currently available.
One suspects there is a lot happening here, time permitting, there could be a return.
Our elaborately named hotel happened to have a bar on site – Elephant & Castle. Clive and Maggie spoke highly about their experience there last night. It is also where they breakfasted. Bier was promised.
A midnight closing, playing the – we’re resident – card should surely guarantee a bit of leeway. The staff were wonderful. The Bier list amused, how British could this place be?
Fiddlehead IPA (Fiddlehead Brewing Co., Shelburne VT) at 6.2% was a proper NEIPA. The full milkshake haze, refreshing, tasty, a body to match the abv, there was even a wee hop hit. Centennial, Columbus and Chinook hops, all American. The sharpness at the start dissipated, especially when more was ordered.
Marg, of course, had withdrawn upstairs to the room. You don’t get a lot for your Buck in Boston. Hector had his mates.
Dr. Stan and Hector have discussed this New England trip for years as a stand alone. Marg driving was the only way it was possible. Tagging it on to the end of this epic trip became obvious. With Clive and Maggie on board, it makes the car hire all the more affordable and also gives another driver. And so it shall be, but not for another four days.
Breweries and bar visited today:
Cambridge Brewing Company – 1 Kendall Square Building 100, Cambridge, MA 02139
Lamplighter Brewing Co – Broadway – 284 Broadway, Cambridge, MA 02139
Democracy Brewing – 35 Temple Place, Boston Ma 02111
Trillium – Fort Point – 50 Thomson Place, Boston, MA 02210
Elephant & Castle – 161 Devonshire St., Boston, MA 02110
Day 69 – Monday, May 27th
Marg was out early for her daily exercise, but not for as much as some. Today the – Run To Remember – half marathon was being held, which pays tribute to fallen 1st Responders. Earlier this year, a friend of Marg’s niece ran the Boston Marathon but did not get her t-shirt. This was due to arrive at our hotel to coincide with our stay. So far nothing.
Today we were being tourists, Cheers had to be visited despite the fact we all know it’s only a facade. Still. There’s a statue that Hector insisted on seeing, others need not accompany, but, hey-ho, try splitting the group.
Confident that she now knew the streets around the hotel, Marg led the way turning left outside the hotel. Had we gone right this would have saved us walking around three sides of our block, some of it uphill. So it goes.
Boston Common we had seen briefly yesterday, Marg was now super-confident. Massachusetts State House stood proudly at the top of the hill. We took our turn and waited to have a photo taken at the bronze sculpture – The Embrace. Did those who took the boats get their money’s worth, small pond. The statue of Washington was a bonus.
Getting out of the park was the next challenge, before being faced with the biggest one of the day – getting into Cheers. Our group of five seemed to be suited to their setup..We had a table, albeit through the back, whilst others had to wait. We had probably timed it well, end of the lunchtime rush.
Bier was on offer, but far too early for us. Or was this down to stretching last night? Sparkling water and Beef Chilli marked Hector’s visit to – Cheers. The upstairs bar is a replica of the TV filmset, however, the surroundings are naff. Windows on the first floor, not the basement it’s meant to represent. We took turn having our photo taken with the original cast. No Lilith.
The Green Line was to take us from from Arlington to Haymarket, alas we were detained at Government Centre. An opperchancity to see this area we would otherwise have missed, who designed these municipal buildings? Fortunately, we got to see some of old Boston including the Bell in Hand, a pub established in 1795, one years before the fictional Cheers.
Hector the Geographer encountered the name Paul Revere in the first year of teaching. A network without a loop, open-ended, why? It was Neil who told me who Paul Revere was, it then fell into place. If the British were coming, there was no need to go back to the spot where this information was gathered.
Thanks to a wean, it took some time to secure the necessary photos. I blame the parents. I’m not sure that my fellow travellers shared the emotion on marking the only piece of Boston history known to the Geographer.
In the full knowledge that it was approaching Bier o’clock, Marg declared she was not coming to our first brewery stop, coffee was calling. Maggie decided to keep her company. Just as well, the next hour was not the Hector’s proudest moment.
Dorchester Brewing Company lies well to the south of the city centre. The Orange Line form Haymarket takes one to Downtown Crossing where one changes to the Red Line. At Andrew, Bus 10 awaits across the street. Simples. Not so, when after only one Bier, the Hector substituted Green for Orange in the instructions passed on to Marg.
For reasons unknown, Bus 10 did not stop at the planned point, but took us into a shopping parade.
Bus 17 might have been the better option. By the time we reached Dorchester, the chaps were ready for Bier.
Whilst Hazy McHopface at 7.7% was the obvious Bier to have, there was a gentler start at 7.0%.
Outer Limits at 7.0% was only available in a CAN. The girl serving insisted we had to try it, regardless. Poured properly, the full milkshake haze was achieved. The body matched the abv, fruity, juicy, hoppy, this was just a tad short of the – wow! El Dorado and Citra were the hops.
In what would turn out to be my last encounter with Bier writer Fred Waltman, he suggested I contact his friend Jamie Magee of this parish. Jamie is behind the local Bier newspaper – Yankee. The three chaps soon became four. With a busy schedule, this would be the only opperchancity for us to meet up.
The ladies arrived, it’s about time Marg learned to use Google Maps. Today was that day.
With Citra and Mosaic hops, Hazy McHopface was right on it, The magic potion had been created, big hops, big flavour, appropriate abv. This was a true NEIPA at source.
There was no rush to leave, I did a tour of the building, there’s an open-air roof area. I bought the t-shirt being sported by the barman. Another tie dye, better than the big plastic transfers which prevail. Dorchester Brewing is a must visit venue.
Now to get back to town. On reaching the fabled 10 bus stop, it had magically vanished. Google get it wrong too. At the stop up further up the hill the daggers in my back were sharp. The strategy was to continue in the original direction of journey and take the Red Line from JFK/UMass to South Station. That worked, Summer Street again. FYI, at the time of writing, Bus 10 has vanished.
There’s a bar in the Food Hall at High Street Place which potentially had Bier and let those who wished more food to be catered for. Alas, listed as open until 21.00 on a Monday, it wasn’t. Hi sis when business owners and Google should be held accountable. Maggie had faded, back to hotel with Clive.
Somehow, Marg and Dr. Stan were still up for more. Sam Adams is the only Boston brewery I had heard of prior to planning for this trip. Whilst the brew-plant itself is back towards where we had just come from, the Downtown Taproom was open, until 21.00.
En route, more interesting architecture juxtaposed against the high rise. Dr. Rick once compared Boston to Glasgow, but then went on to explain that the lower floors have to be in character, above that, well.
We found ourselves deep inside Sam Adams near the tanks. IPA may well have been available, but after Hazy McHopface, why even think about going there?
Boston Lager (The Boston Beer Company, Sam Adams) is available universally, but here was the one in a lifetime opperchancity to have it at source, or near enough. A German-style Lager, yet amber, malty, clear, this was nothing like a Deutsche Lagerbier. Too sweet, too malty, had the Hallertau hops just been waved over the glass?
In what could have been the last Bier of the day, it was time for Dr. Stan and Hector to go dark. Leap Beer (The Boston Beer Company, Sam Adams) at 5.7% is the 2024 House Beer. A Milk Stout featuring lactose, this had a decent body and full on flavours: cinnamon, cocoa, and vanilla were reportedly here. I cannot say the palate was that discerning, and there may be a reason for that, sniffle.
Breweries and bars visited today:
Dorchester Brewing Company – 1250 Massachusetts ave, Boston, MA 02125
Sam Adams Downtown Boston Taproom – 60 State St, Boston,MA 02109
Cheers – 84 Beacon St, Boston, MA 02108
Elephant & Castle – 161 Devonshire St., Boston, MA 02110
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