Portland ME : Around The World in 80 Days – Days 70 -71

Day 70 – Tuesday, May 28th Boston MA to Portland ME

It was Dr. Stan who arranged the Amtrak tickets, as he had done for his 70th Birthday Trip. He knows how, and Hector had enough on his plate getting – Around The World. Portland ME, it had to be given that we have done Portland OR.

Dr. Stan, Clive and Maggie were intent on having breakfast at our hotel, as they had done for their two days previously. Just in case, the Hector was intent on going to North Station early. On the West Coast, Amtrak insisted on checking in luggage, we had no specific information on this in Massachusetts. However, given the rail network density on the East Coast, it did seem unlikely.

The Orange Line from Downtown Crossing was the obvious route to take. However, we found ourselves heading to Park St. and the Green Line. Being de-trained at Haymarket felt quite ironic, Waverley or bust.

North Station, oh, that big building, was well disguised as a major train station. I promised Marg breakfast, we walked through the food hall to reach the departure area. No check-in required, and no platform information until later.

There was an Indian Food stall, the chap manning it wasn’t able to serve any. Work that one out. A disgustingly large piece of Cheesecake was the chosen alternative, the drink bought at a different stand because that’s how it works.

All aboard. Les autres arrived in good time. We were travelling Business Class, on Train 863 at 11.50, a two and a half hour train journey.

Big seats and an inclusive drink marked a pleasant journey, and time to write up more of these pages.

Portland Centrale was no more than a platform in either direction. The path from the northbound platform led directly into Portland Transportation Center which was more of a bus station than a train station, and maybe just inside the city limits. Information for long distance buses was on screens, but how to get Downtown? A friendly Doris advised us to go outside and wait for Bus 5/7. The fare was £2.00 each, cash, Marg had a $10.00 note, an opperchancity to spend a piece of paper that may have come all the way from Glasgow.

Google Maps managed to insert an extra stop just before the one I had picked from which to alight. Dr. wasn’t fooled and stayed on the bus. Four of us marched downhill towards Fore Street and Portland Harbor Hotel.

Dr. Stan and Hector had chosen well. At a mere £170.00 per night, and paid in advance, Portland Harbor Hotel proved to be welcoming and spacious. The stairs in the lobby added a certain character, at least there was a lift up to reception.

There was an issue re inclusive breakfast. We had all received emails advising us that this bonus was due. Having consulted various members of management, this was proved to be spurious.

It was agreed that we would meet downstairs in thirty minutes. Clive and Maggie didn’t show. Three of us headed off along Fore Street to Gritty McDuff’s Brew Pub. A brewery on the street where we live, who planned this? Having established where Dr. Stan and I were going to be for the next hour or so, Marg disappeared off for ice cream.

Gritty McDuff’s was yet another bar claiming to be something it wasn’t. OK, I have been to some Tracey Islands on this trip where the brew plant has been well hidden, not here. Thunderbird 1 was not behind the wall and the Bier list on the wall was not setting the heather on fire.

A substantial venue with another room behind the bar, it appeared to be a mother and daughter who were manning it. Daughter knew hee-haw about the Bier.

Sensi IPA seemed to be only option, hopefully a NEIPA. At 6.2% it had too much haze, muddy, and too little body for the abv. Tart tasting, not the best, no need for another.

Let’s drink this and go – was my desire, alas, Clive and Maggie finally showed having misunderstood the rendezvous time. With the NEIPA not recommended, Clive and Maggie had something else. I took photos of the bar area. A locals’ pub – is how I would identify Gritty’s.

Brickyard Hollow Brewing Co. was just down the road in the harbour area. Why did I feel as though I was in Aberdoom? Brickyard Hollow was more like it, a proper industrial brewery outlet and a choice of NEIPA.

It was time to get our feet under the table. The serving chap gave the warmest of welcomes and would dutifully serve us at the table throughout our stay.

First up was Trestle a 6.8% NEIPA. Despite having a suitable haze and boasting Citra, Mosaic and Simcoe hops, the Bier was too thin for its abv and the hops were not hitting as powerfully as one hopes for. Above average, no more.

There was a need for food and so Buffalo Wings were duly ordered, Just how close was I to Buffalo NY a few days ago? Marg arrived in time to take the necessary photo of the gorging Hector.

Between us, we covered a fair representation of the food menu, everyone happy with their choice.

73 IPA at 6.3% had more haze and a greater sense of hops. Two of the three hops here were – Kiwi: Nelson Sauvin, Motueka and Citra. With fruity/juicy flavours coming across a better option, but still not quite – there.

Being later in the afternoon, it was time for a DIPA. Send It! at 7.6% wasn’t too silly. As with 73 IPA, the full milkshake haze and this certainly had the body. All US hops: Citra, Mosaic and Idaho 7, all sadly subdued.

Decent, but then the brain suggested a magic blend. Combining 73 IPA and Send It! might create a – magic mix. There was no opperchancity to experiment, we had a third and final brewery to get to in this port area and it was closing at 20.00.

Shipyard Brewing Company was a couple of blocks away and up a slight rise.

With no obvious entrance other than to the impressive Bier and clothing store, in we went. Marg would return here to purchase a zany fleece.

With no more luggage weight restrictions, the beginning of the madness? A pity there was no – Mushroomhead (CAN reference).

There was a ramp behind the serving Doris leading to the Taproom, why didn’t she tell us? Time for one Bier, and many choices, a pity we hadn’t started here.

Massive Haze IPA at 6.6% was a step down, The DIPA at 8.5% would have been braver. Gold, with maybe too muddy a haze, this NEIPA had the body was sharp on the palate. No hop information was forthcoming.

With tanks visible, but not necessarily brewing equipment, was this still the point of brewing? As near as, and the brewery website isn’t making life easy.

We had to take our leave, perhaps to our sorrow, but there was still life in the company.

We passed Liquid Riot, a brewery near enough the waterside. Due to close on June 2nd, never mind soon this evening, we walked on.

The Kings Head, on the quayside, just a Craft Beer pub, slumming it.

What a place, our new local, well it was just around the corner from our hotel. The far corner of the bar was where we plonked ourselves, where the action was, or would soon be.

Knowing The Good Doctor’s habits, it was time to follow him to the dark side. Flashlight Tag, an 8.0% Imperial Stout from Belleflower, a brewery on the agenda for tomorrow, was the tempting brew. Peanut butter and chocolate were full on. For once, the body seemed even higher than the abv. This was a joyous discovery, moreish, and why not?

With Maggie on the Brandy, Marg succumbed to a Lemoncello Spritz, then Bacardi & Coke. Party on.

For Hector, one final Bier, and back to the NEIPA. Resilience-Combover (Schilling Beer Company, New Hampshire / Resilience Brewing NH) at 6.7% had the full milkshake haze and was loaded with Vic Secret and Galaxy hops. And here, today’s saga ends, no tasting notes. Entschuldigung.

Breweries and bar visited today:

Gritty McDuff’s Brew Pub – 396 Fore St., Portland ME 04101

Brickyard Hollow Brewing Co. – 9 Commercial St. Portland, ME 04101

Shipyard Brewing Co. 27 Hancock St, Portland, ME 04101

The King’s Head – 254 Commercial St, Portland, ME 04101


Day 71 – Wednesday, May 29th   Portland ME

A day without travel, apart from the walk to the land of the Breweries on Portland‘s  East Bayside, and an Uber home, as relaxing as this leg of – The Trip – is going to be in the final stages. As ever, Marg was out for her morning constitutional, the harbour photos are hers.

Meanwhile, the Hector was doing his damnedest to keep up with this Blog. Having Curry sets the writing back, Curry-Heute always takes priority. And it was Curry which started the day, well after a walk around Downtown Portland ME, such as it is, and the wait for the 14.00 opening time.

Clive and Maggie were waiting outside India Palace, not unsurprisingly, we would be the first customers of the day. A seat was kept for Dr. Stan in case his Big Breakfast had digested, evidently, it hadn’t.

Competent, Mainstream Curry, as much as one can expect, but then, one never knows what is around the corner. Khazi, seriously, and his father, Mohammed were keen to talk all things Curry related after the meal. A memorable visit.

After Las Vegas NV and Honolulu HI, Marg and Hector are hardly going to notice any warmth in the air, so no mercy for Clive and Maggie as we headed north-west, trying to avoid uphill. A thirty minute walk, mostly downhill as it happened, definitely an Uber back.

Dr. Stan had located himself at the far end of the East Bayside brewery parade. Thereafter, it would be a mere three minute walk between venues, comparable to Seattle’s WA Ballard brewing district.

Today, the classic four breweries, two Biers in each, the model which worked so well on Dr. Stan’s Big Birthday Tour of the West Coast, including, the other Portland, Oregon.

Dr. Stan was in the restroom when we entered Lone Pine Brewing Co., the young lady behind the bar knew who we looking for. He must have been in with the bricks, charming as ever.

Had we ended here, then Oh-J and Tesselation would have been the choices, both 8.0% DIPAs. No point wiping oneself out this early, and the Hector tradition of Cider after Curry would have been choice #1. Alas, no Cider in any of the sixteen taps.

Time to try a Seltzer. I’ll never know how OH-J Seltzer at 5.0% compares with the DIPA of the same name, but I needed something to quaff and refresh. A – Hard Seltzer – with Orange, giving it an edge and a decent Flavour. Mission accomplished, gone in a flash. I had just drunk a 5.0% as if it were lemonade. Time to get serious.

Juice Punch at 6.0%, session strength, was clearly the Bier to follow. Despite the milkshake haze and reportedly Citra, Galaxy and El Dorado hops, this lacked the hop-hit one seeks.

The magic blend was not here, time to move along.

At Belleflower Brewing Co., it was a matter of – Preparez vos Mouchoirs. Nine NEIPAs and two DIPAs to choose from. This was exactly what one dreams of, and so little time. There had to be decent Bier here. Flashlight Tag, their 8.0% Imperial Stout had certainly impressed last night at The King’s Head.

The young staff were friendly, helpful, they got what we were about. As ever, Dr. Stan would go his own way. Maggie may always order what Dr. Stan has in a restaurant, she follows my lead in breweries. Marg stuck to soft drinks.

Finch & Thistle at 6.8% was on the button. The Citra hops oozed gently on to the palate. A creaminess here, mellow, a delight. This was moreish, but on a voyage of discovery, one takes the chance on something else.

DIPA time, Into The Kaleidoscope at 8.0%, another full milkshake haze. Citra and Amarillo hops this time, a slight sweetness, but still the same mellow mouthfeel. Full bodied, how many have I had on this trip that have not lived up to the abv?

Belleflower, a relaxing, welcoming venue, a must visit in Portland ME.

The weakness of our two day per city model in this leg of – The Trip – was already being highlighted today. A third day would have enabled a full afternoon at Belleflower.

As we approached Orange Bike Brewing Co. there was a welcome of a different, and unexpected, type. A trad-Jazz band were in full flow, good, in small dozes (sic).

Orange Bike had a different Bier perspective. Gluten-free was their selling point, an array of NEIPA, not. With only one Bier in our chosen style, our stay here would be shortened.

New England IPA at 6.3% was gold, tending towards – muddy – in comparison to Belleflower’s offerings. Too sharp on the palate, not what the Hector seeks.

The fourth and final brewery of the day – Rising Tide Brewing Co. had twelve taps but only one Hazy IPA.

There was no option, it had to be Puffin Party at 6.8%. Columbus, Sabro, Strata and Centennial were the featured hops, but at this abv, a classic example of too thin a Bier.

There was a dog which kept Marg amused pro tem.

At this point one may wonder why we didn’t make the huge six minute walk back to Belleflower? The 20.00 curfew was rapidly approaching. Being out of town, these breweries are not late night venues.

The Hector had less Bier than anticipated at this point, the zone was not yet achieved. Google Maps to the rescue. Telling Marg that we were heading to Portland Zoo was definitely a wind up. It’s bar, open until midnight!

Maggie had faded, an Uber summoned. She promised to join us later, if she was up for it. A three minute walk, of course, to Portland Zoo, fortunately at the bottom of the hill.

Dive Bar, or Hippy Bar, what a place. A shack with minimal indoor seating, everyone was out back in the Beer Garden. This is where the good people of Portland ME were gathering this evening. Firstly, Bier had to be fetched, at this stage, anything would do.

Hazy Little Thing (Sierra Nevada Brewing Co., Chico, California) at 6.7% was a suitable NEIPA. With Citra, El Dorado, Magnum, Mosaic and Simcoe hops, this was a Bier befitting of being consumed in the proximity of the East Bayside breweries.

On the board also: Portland Zoo Cocktail House Marg, alas, the lady stayed sensible.

We found our spot and soon engaged with the locals. One of these turned out to be the brewer from Brickyard Hollow, visited yesterday. With everyone engaged with everyone else, a good time was had by all.

Another Uber took us back to The Kings Head, our local. Clive fetched Maggie.

Dr. Stan ordered Chowder, Marg and Hector shared Chicken Wings.


Hector finally had his Cider, an amuse bouche before the grand finale.

Slow Down (Artifact Cider Project, Northampton MA) at 6.0% was everything keg Cider ain’t back home. Clear, seriously dry, there might even have been apples in there, this was as good as it gets.

Why I started with a small Flashlight Tag was maybe down to not knowing how long my compatriots were staying out.

The full glass soon followed. I may not have had this mighty BelleflowerImperial Stout at source, but today, we were there.

Breweries, bars and restaurant visited today:

Lone Pine Brewing Company – 219 Anderson St, Portland, ME 04101

Belleflower Brewing Company66 Cove St, Portland, ME 04101

Orange Bike Brewing Co. – 31 Diamond St Suite D, Portland, ME 04101

Rising Tide Brewing Co. – 103 Fox St, Portland, ME 04101

Portland Zoo 41 Fox St, Portland, ME 04101

The King’s Head – 254 Commercial St, Portland, ME 04101

India Palace565 Congress St, Portland, ME 04101

Back to: Portland ME Homepage

Back to Boston MA: Days 68 – 69

Continue to: Burlington VT 72 – 73

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