Friday, March 6th
When the price is right, one has to go. Mr. O’Leary has been offering flights at too tempting a price for over two decades, and as usual, not from Glasgow.
Suits v shell-suits. This weekend, Poznan, out Friday evening, back Monday night.
Marg and Hector schlepped through to Edinburgh Airport this afternoon, it should have been a two bus journey, alas, technology had other ideas. Our newfangled electric bus from Clydebank stopped in Maryhill Road and wouldn’t budge after an alarm conveyed a fault, yet the bus was straight out of the box. The driver on our next bus did not know the route and tried to turn into a side street. The bus to the airport went via Easterhouse, since when?
Steve joined us at the airport, an on-time flight. Three passengers, all sitting apart. Hector found the middle seat remarkably comfortable, for two hours, no physical contact with another person. And season two of Star Trek – Strange New Worlds as amusement.
Three buses met the ‘plane at its remote stand, the three of us were quickly reunited. Guess which one of the three buses broke down?
Brexit/Schengen, a big thanks to all who made this possible. I never see a Boris or a Nigel joining long queues at Passport Control. I never hear of anyone celebrating that they voted for Brexit when they realise they are in a queue of hundreds, and a photo and fingerprints of every traveller, without an EU passport, is going to be processed s-l-o-w-l-y.
An hour’s valuable drinking time was thus needlessly lost.
A 60zl taxi had us at the Ibis Centrum by 22.00. We had a Piwna Stopa rendezvous with Jens at 22.30. Hector was introduced to Jens during the closing night at Bräugier (Berlin) last February. This month, Jens is working from Poznan. Having been to Glasgow in the interim, he has become part of – The Company.
First to arrive at Piwna Stopa, Marg and I were both taken aback to be called by name. Unknown to us, Szymon, Mein Host was working tonight. He admitted to having forgotten that we were coming this weekend, so a surprise for him also. An even bigger surprise, this time, I did not bring him CANs of London Pride, but Belhaven.
With three Scottish breweries having closed in the last month, who knows what the future holds. Overtone (Glasgow) will be missed.
Szymon suggested I start with #4 then work my way to #5. Danse Macabre (Browar Monsters, Polska) a 7.0% Oat Cream IPA, a NEIPA in effect, was just what The Hector ordered. With a Haze befitting of the style, a body to match the abv and hop flavours to the fore, an excellent start. Strata, Sabro, Riwaka and Galaxy were the hops.
Steve arrived, then Jens in the company of his Russian friend Yuri who was also in Poznan for the weekend. They admitted to having been out much earlier. We had catching up to do.
I introduced Jens to Szymon, in time, Mein Host joined – The Company.
Having had more of the excellent Danse Macabre, it was time to try something different. Sitting with my back to the board and so quoting from memory, following my instruction, Marg returned from the bar with #4, ah well.
Nieocene (Browar Monsters, Polska) a 5.0% Rye Pils, is not what I would normally order. Yet, I always seem to enjoy a Rye IPA, so maybe a subliminal error. Amber, dry, this was not for me. For the record, Steve had missed out on #6 and gone for #7. He got there in the end, before we both moved to #5.
Sitting in Piwna Stopa, there was the realisation that this remains one of the most outstanding venues ever encountered. In addition to the impressive array of taps, a great atmosphere, a warm fire, The Rickmeister was here a few weeks back when it was -15ºC in Poznan. Szymon said they came in and stayed all day. Today, it reached 17ºC, and is likely to hit that each day of our stay.
Tankbusters has become one of my favourite Polish brewers, they do a decent NEIPA, or two. Tonight, a second version of Time To Fly, different hops too from that had previously.
Time To Fly (Tankbusters Brewing Co., Polska) at 7.8%, a DNEIPA. The previous version was only 7.0%. The full haze, dry and juicy, this was heading along the path towards mango juice. Citra, Mosaic, Idaho 7 and Amarillo were the featured hops.
Thereafter it was back to Danse Macabre, I had found what I liked and stuck with this until closing time.
Wodka & Rollmop Herring, is a late night ritual inaugurated by a group of retired Spooks who adopted me back in 2015 when the rest of my company went to a football match. Jens and Yuri had long retired, and so the remaining three headed to Rynek and Pijalnia Wódki i Piwa.
They had no Fish.
Undeterred we went to another branch on nearby Wroclawska. Still no Fish.
Marg, who was certainly having fun tonight went for the Hazelnut Wodka, Steve and Hector stayed – white.
A round, each, we were all having fun.
Steve, who was living nearer Piwna Stopa, headed home. Marg and Hector headed south along Polwiejska.
I have previously stuck my nose into Castacraftowe, a Ukrainian established brewery in Mosina. to the south of Poznan, to inspect the array of taps.
Nothing Hazy, I have never stayed.
Tonight, Marg almost dragged me in.
On spotting the dried Fish, that was it, we were staying. It was approaching 03.00. At this time of night, I had to go dark.
Porter (Castcraftowe, Polska) at 6.8% was thin for the abv. A classic Baltic Porter, this was not. There was not a lot happening here, any chocolate or coffee had been left in the barn. Anyway, the Bier was incidental.
The salted/dried Fish was magnificent. Hard, not quite crispy, it was firm when put in the mouth. It then magically became chewable, and thus the flavours were released. I keep searching for a Fish Curry with this level of – hit. One day. And so it was time to call it a day, or night?
The bars visited tonight:
Piwna Stopa – zewska 7, 61-760 Poznan
Pijalnia Wódki i Piwa – Stary Rynek 85, Poznan
Pijalnia Wódki i Piwa – Wroclawska 8, 61 – 837, Poznan
Castacraftowe – Polwiejska 6, 61 – 887 Poznan
Saturday, March 7th
There was no rush to rise before noon. Still, Marg was out for her constitutional. A degree of fitness for hockey demands this. Steve declared he would not join us for Curry-Heute, and so in our own time, we headed out to Lake Malta to the east of the city.
At our tram stop, there was no ticket machine. Bier-Traveller demands therefore that the reader is made aware that in addition to the local pre-purchased card ticketing system, and the Polska-wide Jakdojade app, there is a single contactless machine installed on every tram. It is bright yellow.
A 15 minute ticket (5zl) was purchased, a mistake. We had to change at Rondo Strodka which took us over the fifteen minutes. Given that we would be taking a tram back to wards the city centre, a day ticket on the Jakdojade app (20zl) would have been more convenient. In two months, all travel for Hector within Poznan shall be free, it already is in Wroclaw.
All routes to the east end of Lake Malta involve a ten minute walk down from Krancova. Poznan Zoo also lies here. Hector dodged a bullet, but we have done this zoo, way back on our first visit to this fine city.
Blue skies, the temperature approaching the promised 17ºC, Lake Malta still had a fine layer of ice. We were here for Curry at Taj India, again reviewed on visit #1. Today’s review concluded thus:
Visit #4 to Taj India, note to self, there’s no need to schlep out here again.
Jens had mentioned a Craft Beer Pub behind the Cathedral which had never been visited. It was this that prompted me to head out east earlier. The rendezvous time with Steve was put back twice, it was nearer 16.00 when Marg and Hector arrived at Tam Gdzie Zawsze for today’s hare of the dog.
Open some three years, Tam Gdzie Zawsze is not a – microbrewery – as Google Maps insist on classifying so many venues. I have had many changed to – Bar/Pub – sometimes, Google often insist on maintaining the misleading information.
Steve had just arrived and had chosen something clear, nothing special – was his verdict. Ten Bier taps and only one Hazy to choose from, it had to be: Dobry Czas (Browar Za Miastem, Polska) at a mere 4.5%.
An – Australian Hazy IPA, as established two years ago on a certain – RTW-80 – trip, the Aussies have not not fully embraced what – Hazy – actually implies. OK, with Enigma, Ella and Galaxy, this Bier was made from Australian hops, but only had a – moderate Haze. Dry tasting, the hoped for, full on hop experience was not forthcoming. But that is going to be a feature of most the Bier intake this weekend. Until one finds something to match last night’s Danse Macabre.
Marg had tea. The chap behind the bar was pleasant. Hector went exploring. Some sat in the open area across the street, meanwhile, downstairs, there was a much more comfortable seating area in comparison to the stools on which we were sat at the entrance. 
Jens would tell us later that the CANs in the fridge would have been worth a look. I would only come back out here if the – ontap – app revealed something irresistible.
I was anticipating Tram 8 back to Male Garbary at the northern side of Stare Miasto, alas, it became apparent that the tramlines were closed.
And so we walked back across the Warta River to the Old Town.
Marg disappeared, in search of coffee & cake, Hector led Steve to Lot Chmiela, one of the cluster of Craft Beer Pubs on the north side of Rynek. Van Gogh has gone, in fact many Craft Beer Pubs in Poznan have gone, the plan is to visit at least three of the new ones on this trip.
Steve and Hector were the first customers of the day at Lot Chmiela. Steve chose from the Board. As has become my practice here, I enquired about CANs of Hazy. With Jens due to join us, we were on a two Bier stay. A CAN to start, then a bottle.
Hurtownik X Wyboru (Browar Moczybroda, Polska) at 6.0% was sold as – Hazy. IPA, Hazy, NEIPA are all associated with the description of this Bier. I insisted on pouring it myself, and thsuis all the – Hefe – and hops that were in the CAN, were revealed.
Are the Polish brewers just waving the ingredients over the glass?
The – taste of Polska – dominated, dry, with only a sense of the Amarillo, Citra and Mosaic hops therein. Maybe the bottle would be better.
Jens joined us, Marg too, and with other customers arriving, Lot Chmiela was no longer empty. Jens advised that Wsciekly Chmiel, two doors down, is a better venue. I tried it four years ago, I must return, but not tonight.
Rastafarianin (Browar Moczybroda, Polska) at 6.7% was a better choice. A DDH-NEIPA, this had a decent Haze, again poured by – moi. With a body matching the abv, and the Polish taste aside, the hops were more prominent. The addition of CTZ to the Amarillo, Citra and Mosaic hops, was the clear difference between this and the previous CAN.
This made it five entries in my Bier Database for this brewery, all had at Lot Chmiela. Maybe in June, I’ll try next door.
Jens went off for food, the three of us headed around the corner to Dom Piwa, part off the – Ritual Route. Rowing Jack (AleBrowar, Polska) has been enjoyed here for many a year, not even a bottle in the fridge tonight.
The Board only had one Hazy, and therefore Usmiech Dolomitov (Browar Ziemia Obiecana, Polska) at 6.7% it had to be. A – Dolomite IPA – whatever that is, the hoped for intensity of Haze was forthcoming. The Enigma and Hydra hops were not powerful, but there was an awareness of their presence, in addition to the inevitable taste of Polish brewing.
Mein Host was not behind the bar this evening. The young lady did not engage, and so one Bier was declared enough. Ministerstwo was the next planned venue, however, ontap did not show anything particularly exciting. With Danse Macabre still the planned climax for the evening, it was back to Piwna Stopa. A Saturday night, about 20.00, there was not a seat to be had. Having never seen Ministerstwo full, we walked the two blocks around the top of Stare Miasto via Male Garbary.
The bar was staffed by a young lady and a chap with coat and backpack, ready to depart.
With – ontap – in hand on the trusty Opppo, I compared the Board to the online list. One Bier differed. Ministerstwo now has Bier brewed locally under their own moniker, quite a development. The chap realised we had not happen-chanced upon this venue and so engaged. Van Death (Ministerstwo, Polska) was now only available in bottle, meanwhile Van Life, same abv, had replaced it. Given references to touring in the name of this Bier, the hops could not be established.
*
Van Life, a D-AIPA at 8.1% here, though the brewery website says 8.0%, had the ubiquitous Polish Taste on top of a syrupy body. Drinkable, but one would not wish a lot of this.
Meanwhile, unlike the request on my last visit here, a bottle of Komes Baltic Porter was put in the fridge. Why they do not chill them otherwise, I know not. Steve would share this monster, to his sorrow as it happened.
*
It is a month short of ten years since Szymon at Piwna Stopa introduced me to Komes Porter Baltycki (Browar Fortuna, Polska) at 9.0%. This became the standard against which all Baltic Porters have been judged since then. Late night 12%+ sensations have become a ritual.
Tonight, the Komes felt a bit thin, biscuity rather than coffee and chocolate. The chap showed us bottles of Komes variants, one around 20%. None were chilled and so were easily dismissed.
On another day…
Back to Piwna Stopa and further pints of Danse Macabre (Browar Mosnters, Polska). This has been the outstanding Bier of the last twenty four hours.
Our favourite table at the bar was unoccupied but had no chairs. Three were found with relative ease from various corners of the bar.
Jens and Yuri joined us once again, Marg ordered a platter of nibbles.
Not a wild ending to the session, and no late night shenanigans. Marg intimated that she fancied a return to Pijalnia tomorrow night, we shall see.
The bars and restaurant visited today:
Piwna Stopa – zewska 7, 61-760 Poznan
Dom Piwa – 2, Mokra 2, 61-766 Poznan
Ministerstwo Browaru – Wroniecka 16, 61 – 740 Poznan
Lot Chmiela – Zydowska 4, 61 – 761 Poznan
Tam Gdzie Zawsze – Cybinska 13, 61 – 124 Poznan
Taj India – Wiankowa 3, Poznan
Sunday, March 8th – Another – Old Firm – Match
Last Sunday, The Famous played their arch rivals in a league match at Ibrox. Played them off the park in the first half, scored two goals, then the second half turned to shit, a draw. Today, same again, but a quarter final Scottish Cup match. Szymon had suggested we go to an Irish Bar in the Old Town to watch the game, aye right. Jens went to Deja Vu – Pub yesterday and confirmed that they would have it on, kick-off 14.00, local time.
The arrangement was to meet up with Steve, who supports the other team. But first, a light lunch. Golabki has long been a Polish favourite, the Hector was introduced to this creation in his primary school years. Mrs. Olga Slotwinska, grandmother of a school chum introduced me to all sorts of east European delights, whilst at home Indian Curry remained the culinary highlight of every week.
Located on the main shopping street in the south of Stare Miasto, Marg and Hector have visited Pierozek i kompocik previosuly. It’s OK, but they don’t sell Golabki. Considering Pierogi to be too heavy at this time of day, we both ordered Soup. There was enough substance in the Chicken Broth to make it a light meal. The house lemonade was a useful source of rehydration.
And so to Deja Vu, how aptly named. A group of ladies, some of whom we recognised from our Friday night flight were also present. They two were split company. Soft drinks only, nursed for the duration.
Two hours later, after extra time and penalties, the usual outcome. Jens arrived in time for the denouement, a pitch invasion, then led us to Male Garbary for the tram to the far side of the train station.
Jens had spoken highly of BRO Food Beer Chill, a new venue for us Scots. In addition to the Bier, the Fish & Chips was meant o be a highlight. There was only one portion left, I let Marg have this whilst I tackled a Beef Sandwich.
Forest Grinch (Browar Nepo, Polska), a Forest Hazy DIPA at 7.1% felt justified. It had been a long afternoon. With a decent Haze, the body matched the abv. A slight tang may have been down to a less favoured hop, Talus. The Strata and Mosaic carried it through.
Virtually next door lies Jecycowka, another Craft Beer outlet. Here there were only four taps and two were – aff. Bottles became the only option, and Pinta stood out, not a brewery I rush towards, too complacent. Having been one of the first big name Polish brewers, they then rested on their laurels, however, I have encountered some better collaborations in recent years, so there is hope. Mango Jerry almost tempted.
Hazy Deliver (Pinta, Polska), a 6.0% NEIPA, was poured by Mein Host. Whether this was responsible for my notes recording – hardly Hazy – may be established if/when I find this on tap. A sharp taste, perhaps again down to to less favoured hops: Sabro and Talus. Strata and Idaho 7 may have saved the day.
Again, a shorter visit than envisaged, the tram took us back to Male Garbary, and Piwna Stopa, where the Bier of this trip hopefully awaited.
The Hector secured the last pint of Danse Macabre, thereafter, it had to be Jucilicious (Browar Piwne Podziemie, Polska), a 6.0% NEIPA. The hops were possibly: Citra, Mosaic, and Simcoe. A full Haze, sharp and dry tasting this Bier was spiled by a strange aftertaste markedly different from The Polish Taste. My fifteenth Bier by this reputable brewery, I know they can do much better.
Time to try a CAN. Cloudy (Funky Fluid, Polska) a full haze NEIPA, well, I poured it. With oats reported, a thin body for the abv. Acceptable, just – was noted. One had hopes for the hops, they undelivered: Citra, Amarillo, and Mosaic.
Are the Polish brewers adding fewer hops to their creations?
Wroclawski Festiwal Dobrego Piwa is being held at the end of June this year. Hopefully, this will feature in these pages.
A Sunday night, Steve was taking it easy, Jens had work to consider in the morning. Guess who was last out of Piwna Stopa?
And so Marg and Hector stopped for a nightcap at Pijalnia on Rynek. This time, the Hector had the online menu to hand – Herring. Nope, Rollmops have definitely gone from this chain. An obscene quantity of Kosher Gherkins were provided as an alternative. 
As we enjoyed a wee Wodka or two, the locals entertained us with the karaoke. The Scorpions, most unusual, the joy of Europe, less chance of reggae, northern soul or rap.
The bars and restaurant visited today:
Piwna Stopa – zewska 7, 61-760 Poznan
Pijalnia Wódki i Piwa – Stary Rynek 85, Poznan
BRO Food Beer Chill – Adama Mickiewicza 27/L3, 50 – 35 Poznan
Jezycowka – Juliusza Slowackiego Ul,. 16, 60-823 Poznan
Deja Vu – Pub – Wozna 21, 61 – 776 Poznan
Pierozek i kompocik – Polwieska 26, 61 – 888 Poznan
Monday, March 9th
The benefit if staying regularly at Ibis/Accor hotels is the points giving discount and the status commanding early check-in and/or late check-out. On checking in Friday night, a 17.00 check-out was confirmed for today. With our flight back to Edinburgh at 21.40, this was advantageous.
Today, the Hector would have his Golabki.
Wiejskie Jadlo, located in the side street off the west side of Rynek, is the best traditional Polish restaurant I have found in Poznan. Steve tried getting in yesterday to no avail, it is going to be packed at peak times, some even accepting seats in the street. He did join Marg and I today once we confirmed we had a table.
For Marg, a cutlet, for Hector, Golabki and boiled potatoes, both Marg and I could have done with half as many of the latter. A potato did end up in Steve’s soup.
On Friday night, Szymon invited us to come and say farewell at Piwna Stopa this lunchtime even though the bar does not open until mid-afternoon. What is the opposite of a lock-in? Soft drinks, none of us were having Bier this early. We did leave with some Bier, Szymon confirming what Jens had told us, one can take liquids up to 2 litres in hand luggage.
Thereafter, Coffee & Cake and a wee wander.
Rather than visit the obvious places on Rynek, some of which were closed being a Monday, a new place was found off to the east. Panta Rhei Cafe shall definitely be visited again. A lovely lady serving, coffee as hot as requested, and quite an impressive array of cakes.
Back at the Ibis Centrum, we installed ourselves in the expansive lobby. This stuff does not write itself, an hour or so of Blogging before heading to the airport. An Uber was only 40zl compared to the 60zl paid on arrival at the rank.
The Ryanair flight from Poznan to Edinburgh has a 100% punctuality rating. This I have never seen before. Handy, as I’m coming back this way from Wroclaw in June.
Passing time at an airport waiting for a flight is no great ordeal for Marg and Hector after RTW-80. Needless hold-ups after landing, that is another issue. Edinburgh never fails to rankle. Tonight, the works.
We could not dock at the remote stand because the lights had not been switched on. Five minutes plus. No stairs brought to the back door of the ‘plane meaning nobody was allowed off the front. Another ten minutes Two buses when three were clearly required. A squeeze. Three passenger loads arriving simultaneously at passport control. A half hour queue. No sign of our luggage even though the screen stated – complete. Another half hour wait with no explanation/apology.
Is this a management issue or just indifferent staff?
The bar, restaurant and coffee shop visited today:
Piwna Stopa – zewska 7, 61-760 Poznan
Wiejskie Jadlo – Stary Rynek 77/wejscie od, Franciskanska, 61 – 772 Poznan
Panta Rhei Cafe (coffee & cake) Wodna 5, 61 – 782 Poznan