Wednesday, September 3rd Brugge via Brussel-Zuid
Bier Blogging in Europe, I should do more, but keeping up with Curry-Heute on such trips occupies most of my time. Having recently added the drop-down page on Brugge, this complements Brussel and Gent, so what follows should take way less time. Just Antwerpen to do, and there will be time for this as should be seen as the week progresses.
A four day trip was booked, two nights each in Brugge and Brussel.
Why just the four? – Dr. Stan and Hector have asked each other in recent weeks. All to do with flight prices, and after Miami FL and Cruise To The Edge, earlier in the year. I was worried about over-spending. As it happened, on realising that Pendragon are playing in Ittre next Tuesday, the Hector added another three nights to this trip.
An early start for the 11.10 Ryanair flight from Edinburgh to Charleroi, aka Brussels-Sud. Marg, dog-sitting in Wallyford, I kid you not, was able to give me a lift, and so I arrived three hours before the flight, which was needlessly delayed by almost an hour.
I watched the inbound flight not let the passengers disembark, no buses. Then half were were picked up, and another ten minute wait for the bus to return. Twenty five minutes waiting for a bus, some on the tarmac, whilst six chaps in Menzies-Swissport outfits just stood around.
We fared no better in the departure lounge. With no announcement, Gate 13 became Gate 26. No announcements, not even at boarding. Swissport staff, not Ryanair. On board, the pilot blamed the ground staff for the delay.
My contempt for Edinburgh Airport is well recorded in other media, and specifically so in another Blog posting on the same route as today. The employees treat passengers abysmally. And why do all the interesting flight routes leave from here when the majority of the Scottish population lives in Greater Glasgow?
Suits v shell-suits.
Alighting at Charleroi was almost straightforward. The route to Passport Control was tortuous, at least just up, not up then down a la Edinburgh. The first stamp on my new extra-page British passport, this is why the Hector has not been abroad since the start of July.
Flibco are a major presence at Brussels-Sud, offering so-called shuttle buses to destinations all over België, and beyond, e.g. Luxembourg. Since my last time here, the dedicated bus terminal has been completed impressive, efficient, though one can buy tickets online, but what happens if one’s flight is delayed?
But not for Hector. Being over 65 means one can travel by train anywhere in België, for €8.50. Charleroi train station is the obvious place to head for by Bus A1, however, the SNCB app insists Luttre is better. Luttre is to the north, so one is not going south to Charleroi to go north again. The same IC train anyway. Bus A3 from the beyond the Flibco terminal is where the local buses are found, not well signed at all. I wonder why? Luttre – Brussel Midi – Brugge, simples.
Arriving at the Ibis budget Brugge Centrum Station just after 18.00, Dr. Stan was checking in. He had come by Eurostar.
Traditionally, de Garre is our first calling point on any Brugge trip. Bus 1 took us to Dijver, the famous canal stop. From there we looped round to the corner of Grote Markt, then off to the lane that is De Garre. With the now autumn sunlight, pretty pictures en route.
Upstairs, at de Garre, empty to begin, then more came out for an evening Bier.
Tripel Van de Garre, a mere 11.0% to start the night. Two is enough.
*
The accompanying cheese was dinner. I love being here. The serving staff are always accommodating, The peaceful, always classical music, creates a unique atmosphere.
De Kelk to the east in the Sint-Anna Quarter, is where we planned to end the evening, but first Bauhaus a few metres beyond.
A one kilometre twilight walk from de Garre, our first visit to Bauhaus. Decor and fittings-wise, an impressive bar, lots of accoutrements, but the tap Bier list was hardly inspiring. A chap from Ayr (Scotland) was serving. He had never heard of CAMRA, and doesn’t know Henry. Very strange.
*
The Ayrshire chap recommended the House IPA.
Bauhaus IPA (Brouwerij The Musketeers, Belgie) at 6.5% is West Coast in flavour. Gold, with a slight Haze, suitably dry and in the style.
Kwak was the only other tap Bier which could have made the Hector stay, we shall leave that for Toone. De Kelk would certainly have more to entice.
On the short walk back to de Kelk, we passed the bus stop from where, last year, we took a late bus back to the train station. There was a bus timetabled for after the midnight closing time, that should do us.
On entering de Kelk, the high table we sat at last year was in the process of being cleared. I informed the lady:
Ah, my usual table. OK, I’ve only been here once before.
De Kelk has a range of contemporary Bier from outwith België also. However, I started with something Belgian and Van’t Vat, Dr. Stan as ever, went his own way, though for a moment he thought I was addressing him at him.
Shut up! You Talk Too Much (BramBass, Belgie) is a 8.0% DNEIPA. Dark gold with a brown haze, one could taste the alcohol, not the hops. The brewery is reportedly a Gypsy Brewer, the Bier is named after a Run DMC song. Now we know.
This was followed by another tap Bier.
Stoffoasje (D’Oude Maalderij, Belgie) at 8.5% is a Belgian Tripel. Gold, clear and thin for its abv, there was a slight sweetness. Now way as good as de Garre’s Tripel.
By this time, Dr. Stan had discovered that the last bus back was after 23.00. Mein Host knew nothing about public transport. I checked the price and availability of Uber in Brugge, we were staying.
Dr. Stan came back from the bar with a CAN for us to share. As it happens, I’ve previously had a few from this Estonian brewery, with varied levels of enjoyment recorded.
Magnetic Domain (Puhaste, Estonia) a 10.8% Imperial Baltic Porter, so easy to drink. Maybe not so full on in terms of coffee/chocolate, but a fine Bier regardless.
Back to the board and our nightcap. Mein Host was in no hurry to kick us out even though midnight had passed.
There was time for a glass of Leeds’ very own.
*
Heaven 2024 (Northern Monk Brew Co., England), a 10.5% Barrel aged Chocolate and Maple Imperial Stout, had it all. With the appropriate body and full on flavours the World could simply have stopped here.
An Uber was duly summoned at the time we had planned to take the bus.
It has been a long day.
Bars visited today:
Stammine De Garre – De Garre 1, 8000 Brugge
St. Christopher’s at the Bauhaus – Langestraat 135, 8000 Brugge
De Kelk – Langestraat 69, 8000 Brugge
Thursday, September 4th, 2025 Brugge
A 13.00 rendezvous in the lobby, simples. At 13.05 I phoned Dr. Stan. He was just settling down to another hour’s snooze having listened to the BBC News at noon. Somehow, he had forgotten België is an hour ahead.
The agreed dining place was Pasta-Gusto, along the balcony from Ibis Budget and overlooking the station square and the bus turning circle.
Last year I had the special Gusto Bolognaise, large. Good as it was, I couldn’t finish it, today, a standard portion.
Wot, no Curry? Indian Tandoori, the place we visited last year is – temporarily closed – according to a well known and sometimes reliable map medium. I have done most of the Curry Houses in Brugge, and although In-Dish next door to ‘t Brugs Beertje proved to be fine, walking down Kemelstraat at lunchtime just feels wrong.
Bieratelier in the Ankerplein area of the old town has proven to be worthy of a stop off. Today, this would be our starting point. A rather clever way into the bottom of the old town had us there by a scenic route, new, until I look at old photos.
How Dr. Stan could navigate his way through the bras suspended from the ceiling, he didn’t let on. Maybe he is us used to it.
Rodenbach Vintage, a 7.2% delight, was on tap, not to be ignored. I had a Soupçon from a bottle on a mad night at Koelschip Yard (Glasgow) a couple of months back. This was suitably Sour, but not as extreme as my favourite Kriek which would await later. A good starter.
The smell in the back room at Bieratelier left something to be desired. However, here is an ongoing problem with a city built around canals, not rivers. Every so often, a pong emanates from somewhere.
Across the street from Bieratelier lies Yesterday’s Works, as much a museum/antique shop as a bar.
We were forty five minutes too early, and so on to Bierpalais, and umbrellas up. The promised mid afternoon rain was punctual. En route I checked out Indian Tandoori. It has gone, now selling that food from further east than the Indian Subcontinent. Google has been informed, how long will it take them to react?
As I arrived at Bierpalais, Dr. Stan was standing outside, under a canopy. Closed, worse, for sale. Whether this Bier and souvenir shop remains an ongoing business, time will tell.
On we went, up to the main part of the old town and negotiated our way around the houses, to Brugge’s other old town brewery.
Bourgogne des Flandres have a brew-plant here, but may be cheating. How much is still brewed by Timmermans, and is the House Bier (5.0%) brewed here? Well, they aren’t going to tell us.
Think sweet and thin, Dr. Stan concurred, it wasn’t the same as recorded in Bier notes, and he did not have an excellent Rodenbach afore.
The House Bier is not dissimilar in style from Rodenbach, but quality was evident, albeit by its absence.
Duvelorium next, and the opperchancity to look down on the peasants in Grote Markt. There is is Bier Festival here in a week or so, and the Brugge equivalent of CAMRA were having a meeting in the bar area. Maybe not a CAMRA equivalent, these were well dressed businessmen, who ever wore a suit to a CAMRA meeting?
I haven’t had a Maredsous for yonks, it was on tap and so time to address this.
Brune (Le Saint-Jospeh Maredsous, België) at 8.0%, seemed more ruby-red, was smooth with a hint of caramel. Quite a departure from the norm. After all, we haven’t come to België just to drink NEIPA.
We sat out on the balcony, the stools were not comfortable. A hysterical woman kept performing every so often along the way.
*
Let’s go back in, but keep out the way of the meeting.
Dr. Stan was certain that screaming weans would materialize, followed by the yappy dog. A typical Hector day out.
‘t Poatersgat has been on our – to visit – list for some time. Another cellar bar as with La Trappiste, and Brugespub which is actually across the street, from ‘t Poatersgat, and still not open in our window of opperchancity.
The stairs were not amusing for people of a certain age, our age. Dr. Stan entered backwards, a la James Bond gatecrashing a party: look as if you have just popped out.
The cavernous basement impressed, the loud music did not. Speakers everywhere, stools just away from the bar proved to be the nadir.
Mr Bean played continuously on the screens. How old is that? All the classic, typically USA pop tunes. Archetypal – said Dr. Stan. Young staff, no gravitas, who are they trying to attract. Had we gone round to La Trappiste, no doubt it would have been stowed.
The Bier? Yes, we had one.
We could easily have just moved on, nothing here to excite at all. If you are opening a bar in Belgium, you need something different, not standard fayre.
Brugge Trippel (De Gouden Boon (Palm), België) at 8.7% for Hector, presumably brewed locally, but not that local. Blond, with a body matching the abv, and importantly dry, not sweet.
That still leaves only two breweries within historical Brugge.
It was now the time when we could walk over to ‘t Brugs Beertje and know we could stay until near enough closing time and not disgrace ourselves. Last bus at 23.21, aye right, they are open until midnight and this is our only shot this year at enjoying one of the best bars in the entire World of Bier.
The Hector led the way to the corner table furthest from the door in the bar. With seats here, we would feel we were here, not stuck in the middle room, or worse, in the back room which opens for larger numbers. A group would arrive and they were sent there.
Until tonight, I did not know, or if I did, I have long forgotten there is another bar at the rear, open at weekends. Tonight was busy enough to justify this.
Oude Kriek (Hanssens, Belgie) at 6.5%, for Hector, there is no better Lambic. As Sour as any Bier can be then add the cherries and the underlying sense of cinnamon, perfection. I permit myself to have two, else acid reflux pays a visit.
Gouda and Celery Salt, another Belgian ritual, was duly ordered. I think there was some salt left in the jar when we had finished.
As we finished Bier #2, a Scottish couple sat at the far end of the table. This led to extensive Bier talk.
The tap list included two IPAs. Being bold, I ordered Madahijscar (Brouwerij ‘t Verzet, België) at 6.0%, a Farmhouse IPA was remote from a NEIPA. Thin, bitter, there was hardly any sense of hops. Columbus and Nelson Sauvin may well have been abused in the creation of this Bier, horrible. I was glad I had ordered – small.
In Between His Walls (Nanobrasserie de L’Ermitage, Brussel, België) at 6.5% was a serious NEIPA. There was a – wow – of relief when the hops hit the palate. Krush, Simcoe and Ekuanot were well represented here. Scheduled to visit the brewery tomorrow, I would expect to have this again – at source.
Dr. Stan had already headed to the dark side. My final Bier of the evening was therefore a safe choice.
Cuvée Delphine (De Struise Brouwers, België) at 13.00%, would provide a perfect ending. A Russian Imperial Bourbon Barrel Aged Stout, this had all the flavour of Chocolate & Coffee one seeks, and little sense of the alcohol. Richly flavoured, excellent.
Walk home? Aye right. An Uber was summoned, a Tesla, a first experience for both of us. The dashboard TV screen interprets pedestrian and cyclists and shows them graphically. Crazy. Do windows and mirrors not work any more. Anyway, his route back to the hotel was circuitous, we got our money’s worth.
Brewery and bars and restaurant visited today:
Bieratelier Brugge – Wijngaardstaat 13, 8000 Brugge
Brouwerij Bourgogne des Flanderes – Kartuizerinnenstraat 6, 8000 Brugge
Duvelorium – Markt 1, 8000 Brugge
‘t Poatersgat – Vlamingstraat 82, 8000 Brugge
‘t Brugs Beertje – Kemelstraat 5, 8000 Brugge
Pasta-Gusto – Frank Van Ackerpromenade 1, 8000 Brugge
Friday, September 5th, 2025 Brussel
Everyone in België appeared to be waiting for the 11.55 from Brugge to Brussel, fortunately, I had agreed with Dr. Stan that we would take the 12.11. Much quieter by far, plenty of room to stretch out.
Ibis Brussel-Zuid had not guaranteed my early check-in, however, this was honoured. Having stayed enough nights in the past year at Ibis/Accor, I/we have accumulated enough points to reach Gold, only the second time this has occurred. No welcome chocolate in the room, so I’ll have to buy some for Marg at Charleroi Airport.
The next two nights are also the most expensive I have ever accepted travelling solo. Usually the weekend rate in Brussel is at a discount, not this time. Even St. Gilles, usually the cheaper alternative, did not attract. Staying in a cheaper hotel in the city centre / Anderlecht can be horrible. I know, I’ve stayed in a few. The Hector has bitten the bullet.
11.00 checkout – advised the ever so friendly chap.
Eleven, it’s usually twelve.
You can have twelve.
A quick swipe of the key-card and an amendment to the holder and at least I had secured a total of two and a half hours beyond the norm. Small victories.
Nobody at Chilli Grill had acknowledged my text. I know they tend not to open at the 13.50 time posted on Google. I phoned, no answer. I phoned Dr. Stan, he did answer.
I’m sending you details of where I am eating.
Mithu da Dhaba, one of a range of authentic, hopefully, Pakistani Curry Houses that Google now admit exist in nearby Anderlecht. Why they appear now and not on previous trips, which have been regular in recent times, only Google know.
Dr. Stan joined me ten minutes into my dining experience. As ever, the full account of our visit to Mithu da Dhaba is posted in Curry-Heute.
A Friday afternoon, it was certainly Bier o’clock, and we were in Anderlecht. In previous visits to Brussel, this would have meant making a beeline to Brasserie Cantillon, but not any more. I have told the World, and them to the best of my ability, that I shall not return to their brewery taproom until they stop ripping off the public, and generally adopt a better attitude. For a time it was a matter of by the glass only not enough bottles. Now it’s bottles only, and they want to sell the premium stock.
Dr. Stan assures me that the main chap agrees with these sentiments. Some time back, he advised Dr. Stan to go to nearby Brasserei de l’Ermitage after Cantillon closed. He duly turned up, moments after Dr. Stan, and spilled the beans.
And so, L’Ermitage it was. There were more people sitting outside than in, and even more would join them. That people still smoke, puzzles. That people smoke dope with Bier, wtf?
A different chap behind the bar, this was easy to verify, it was a young lady last year. The Bier which rescued Hector’s palate at ‘t Brugs Beertje last night was duly ordered, a large one too, such was the level of confidence.
In Between His Walls, a 6.5% NEIPA, a sensible starting level for another day of indulgence. It is Lockdown which is to blame for regarding 6.0% as a base level. Anything below 5.0% is now looked upon with suspicion.
Not the best Bier L’Ermitage have ever produced, that accolade goes to Rongo, an 8.0% DIPA, but still worthy of of having. The young barman had never heard of Rongo, he has now.
Those who joined us inside appeared to be transient, luggage in tow. One, a young chap who insisted we hear all of his phone-calls fell foul of having to use the facility. This is for the brave, Dr. Stan worked out that it’s wooden wind chimes at the entrance which make the strange noises.
Everyone should visit, once.
Roy de Denier, an 8.0% DIPA was next. With a full haze and a body to match the abv, this was sharp on the palate, then fruity, with a dry aftertaste. There was no hop hit as such and the hops therein cannot be established.
Today we were spared the screechy women and the runabout wean, cue the yappy puppy. Actually it did calm down quite quickly, so Dr. Stan did not get to savour my discomfort.
*
Dipatout 2025, is how I have to call this one. In 2022, this Bier was 9.0% with a full on Haze, featuring Citra and Chinook. This version had less of a Haze, the body matched the abv, and fruitiness was revealed. With Simcoe, Mosaic and Amarillo hops, this was close to being wonderful.
By this time, it became apparent that whole albums were being played, quite a change from the usual tracks. Radiohead’s – OK Computer – I had only ever heard bits of, the usual bits, I suppose. Having now heard the entire album, I can see where Gazpacho get their influence. However, Jan Henrik Ohme’s vocals in Gazpacho leave Radiohead miles behind. I thought we were getting all of Pink Floyd’s – Meddle – until it cut off halfway through Echoes. There are a lot of fillers on that album.
Not letting Hector hear – the return of the ping – felt a good enough reason to leave.
To where next? Moeder Lambic – Fontainas was the obvious choice, but somehow, we both decided to head to the top end of St. Gilles.
From Lemonnier, we jumped on the Metro (4/10) up to Albert. Well, Dr. Stan was through the barriers first, the Hector had no ticket. The barman couldn’t tell me if the ten journey ticket on the STIB app would appear there, or elsewhere. Who can? A paper Day Ticket it was. How do I get a STIB card? Can I really use any bank card to tap on/off? I would hate to be stuck between the gates at a Metro station.
At Albert, Dr. Stan confidently chose the right exit. He is here way more than my once per year.
Dynamo – Bar de Soif was marginally busier on the outside than it was on the inside.
We have been coming here for a few years, there is always something new to enjoy.
Fugushima (Fugu Brewing Co., Brussel, België) a 6.2% NEIPA was in the no man’s land of nothing wrong, but lacking that particular blend. How many times is this the case?
A pale Haze, with the body matching the abv, this was suitably juicy, and most importantly, nothing nasty. Citra, Cryo Citra and Simcoe were the hops. I can even report an IBU of 25.
I’m sure we sit at the same spot every time we come.
The green wall takes on all sorts of dynamic imagery after a time. There was a brief moment when I considered purchasing a can of Sardines. I have never seen such an array, do peeps eat these indoors or out?
*
On arrival, the next Bier was not on the board. The barman immediately let us know it was available. Maybe he knew something else.
Turbulence des Fluides (Brasserie des Beaux Jours, Charleroi, België) a 6.0% NEIPA, nearly commanded a lap of honour. Citra, Mosaic and Idaho 7 provided the base for this almost excellent NEIPA. The milkshake Haze always impresses, big body big mouthfeel, and the foretaste we almost right there. But then it all subsided too quickly.
I like this bar, but two others remained the target. Still, I had another Turbulence.
*
Moeder Lambic, the original, downhill, and to the right, I can almost get there instinctively. Here the outside was stowed, the inside empty, downstairs, nobody. Smokers. Here we do seem to occupy a different seat each time. Dr. Stan wanted to ensure he could see the board. Hector takes a photo.
Dr. Stan went – Brune – the Hector decided it was time for a Lambic.
Drei Fonteinen Kriek (Brouwerij 3 Fontänen, Beersel, België) at 6.0% has been had oft, even – at source. This is Hector’s go-to Kriek after Hanssens and Cantillon. Not the full on sucky-cheeks and cinnamon, but always quaffable, and that is what I did.
La Moederation (Brasserie de Jandr ain-Jandrenouille, België) may well have been Hector going off on one. An 8.0% Belgian Pale Strong Ale with a slight haze on the gold. Full bodied, sufficiently dry, with some fruitiness, it tasted like a crossover between a West Coast IPA and a Tripel.
Now that I’ve had this, note to self, try something different next time.
Extensive as the Bier range may be at Moeder Lambic, there was nothing on the board that was calling me. It didn’t take much persuasion to get Dr. Stan moving further down the hill to L’Ermitage St. Gilles. I did insist we take the Metro from Horta down to Parvis St-Gilles, the subsequent third trip would justify my Day Ticket.
The crowds occupying the pavement cafes of St. Gilles confirmed that this is where the locals hang out, Grand Place is for tourists. I think we knew that.
There was no holding the Hector back now, a big Dipatout was duly ordered. Anaesthetic was required time to get through the Danmark v Scotland match on the Oppo. It was 0v0 when I put the match on and that is how it would remain. We didn’t know that and so half litres of Noire du Midi were acquired. As for the football, the usual story, the team which has a proper goal scorer wins.
*
*
Noire du Midi at 6.5% is a Hoppy Porter. Despite the relatively low abv, for the time of night at which it was being consumed, the body surprised, and the mouthfeel was spot on. With both coffee and chocolate flavours coming through, this was a great note on which to finish the night.
Another note to self: the two-plus year old Oppo will have to be upgraded, the battery rarely lasts more than six hours of Hector usage.
Brewery, bars and restaurant visited today:
Brasserei de l’Ermitage – Rue Lambert Crickx 26, 1070 Anderlecht, Brussel
Dynamo – Bar de Soif – Chau. d’Alsemberg 130, Saint-Gilles, Brussel
Moeder Lambic Original – Rue de Savoie 68, 1060 Saint-Gilles, Brussel
L’Ermitage Saint-Gilles – Rue de Moscou 34, 1060 Saint-Gilles, Brussel
Mithu da Dhaba – Rue Brogniez 78, 1070 Anderlecht, Brussel
Saturday, September 6th, 2025 Brussel
Dr. Stan’s final day of this trip and he did not join Hector for another Anderlecht Curry, this time at Noor Tandoori. His loss. There was a notional 14.00 rendezvous at La Source, possibly Brussel’s best kept Bier secret.
Bus 46 took me north from Clemenceau to stop Brussel Andrée De Jongh right outside the door of the old industrial building which now houses the microbrewery. Clemenceau was an eye opener, an open air market was being held across from the bus stop. Those participating were markedly different from those found at Grand Place, no tourists here.
First visited on 2023, La Source brew contemporary Craft Beer, a change therefore from the traditional Belgian styles. I recognised the chap serving, from last year or the year before.
La Meute, a Hazy IPA at 6.5% is tried and tested. There was no holding back, I started – large. With Mosaic Cryo, El Dorado, and Sorache Ace, a decent hop blend creating Tropical flavours. The Bier has lost some of its haze, or had the keg not been rolled lately?
A Saturday afternoon, where was everyone? At least the roller-derby in the main hall had yet to get underway. There were never more than two customers in our bit throughout our stay. Mellow music, some Shoegaze, a pleasant place to sit.
What could be better than La Meute than Double Meute at 8.0%? Like its little brother not as Hazy as one would hope for. A small glass, a bit early for a DIPA.
Dr. Stan, as ever, was doing his own thing Bier-wise. When he hit the dark stuff this early in the day and declared he was on to something, the Hector had to get on board.
Taupe, a Black Wheat Porter at 6.1% had the full on chocolate experience. A decent body for this abv, so perhaps sensible for the time of day.
Bus 46 took us back to Bourse, and from there, the short hop to another must-visit Brasserie to partake in another Bier ritual.
Poechenellekelder is located adjacent to Mannequin Pis, everyone who has visited Brussel has therefore at least been outside it, and outside is where many had chosen to sit. Inside was stowed also, we squeezed in to uncannily, the same group of tables we always see to secure.
Puppets aplenty, but more of them later, accoutrements adorn the walls, just a great atmosphere at any time of day. Never been at night.
Rodenbach (België), the Classic at 5.2%, though the Grand Cru at 6.0% is even better, is a ruby-red ale. Approaching the bitterness of a Lambic, a Sour, long before this term was coined, truly refreshing.
Settling down to the old time music, some jazz too, we watched the adjacent young couple order Spag Bol. Oh why not? It may only have been a matter of a few hours since brunch, but it could be a long night.
Nobody cooks Spag Bol as good as Hector’s. OK, once, and only once, a chap in the restaurant at the top of Capri’s – other hill – did. When I asked to meet the Chef, they thought I wanted to have words. There was great relief when it was to congratulate him.
Today’s SpagBol needed way more sauce, too dry. Lots of cheese, must be an American Chef. Usually, they just skimp on the meat not at Poechenellekelder.
Moeder Lambic – Fontainas was a matter of metres away. A different atmosphere, loud-ish euro, but not pop, bearable.
For years, the array of options here truly impressed, these days less so. Maybe my restored regular visits to België have just made me harder please.
HãPi Kiwi (1Bières2Tartines, België), NZIPA at 6.4% was first had at Moeder Lambic – Original in 2023. With – the full milkshake haze and suitably hoppy, a tad off perfection – was written back then. Today, the three Kiwi hops could still not be named and the flavours seemed unfamiliar. During a certain Big Trip in 2024, which included New Zealand, I became more wary of NZIPA. Is it just a matter of the brewers hedging their bets between New England and West Coast?
Grand Place was mobbed but with a different crowd. A Bier Festival was being held which occupied all but the peripheral areas. Given the age of those attending, it was quickly established that there was nothing here to divert us from our objective.
Toone, the puppet theatre and Bier bar. Kwak (Bosteels Brewery, België) at 8.4%, the ritual Bier. A strong, Brown Ale, slightly sweet, but wonderful. It must be served in the correct glass, and here it is.
We squeezed on to a table facing the bar, our preferred spot. We had to pay for each round in turn, no tab. The card machine didn’t stretch to us, could we go to the card reader? They soon learned just to take our bank card for a walk, simples.
Cheese and copious Celery Salt used to be part of the ritual at Toone, they no longer serve it. A couple of years back, a waiter informed us this was due to EU standards. Nonsense.
The music at Toone is relaxed, subdued even, pop in English. Tonight, this included Pink Floyd, an opperchancity for the Hector to name that tune. Dr. Stan stopped at Hendrix. Dr. Stan missed the Hendrix statue in Seattle WA. Perhaps we should do something about that?
A farewell to Dr. Stan who is not in this saga any more.
Back at the Ibis, the bar was closed, a common feature of this chain. How is one meant to enjoy the complimentary drink?
Brewery, bars and restaurant visited today:
La Source Beer co. – Rue Dieudonné Lefèvre 4, 1020
Poechenellekelder – Rue du Chêne 5, 1000 Brussel
Moeder Lambic Fontainas – Place Fontainas 8, 1000 Brussel
Toone – Imp. Schuddeveld 6, 1000 Brussel
Noor Tandoori – Rue de Fiennes 42, 1070 Anderlecht
Sunday, September 7th Brussel to Antwerpen
Last year, when my flight from Charleroi, aka Brussels South, was cancelled twice, due to staffing disputes at the airport, I took refuge in Antwerpen and escaped from Europe via Amsterdam. When I decided to extend this trip to accommodate seeing Pendragon on Tuesday in Ittre, I knew that Antwerpen would be the most affordable city in België to stay in, and keep me suitably amused.
There was momentary confusion at Brussel-Zuid, my train was going to Anvers, wtf is that? Why French was being used to identify a city in the Dutch speaking part of België, only the station management may know. Anvers, via Malines, throw us a bone. Antwerpen via Mechelen, now we know where we are going. The Royal – we.
Arriving at Antwerpen-Centraal is always a pleasure. The multi-level platforms never fail to intrigue, then there is the magnificent architecture in the entrance hall.
I had asked for an early check-in at the Ibis Budget, they couldn’t guarantee it, but the lovely ladies on duty had my room sorted when I arrived soon after 13.00. Today must have been deemed to be – hot. I was provided with an ice cold carton of water, for the room. A pity Ibis don’t do fridges.
Prior to a short snooze, I had to deal with a couple of mosquitoes at large in the room. Better now than in the middle of the night. Hector 2 v 0 Mosquitoes.
It has been a couple of years, but a return to Iman Hallal felt overdue. A Palak Gosht washed down with copious Belgian Fanta would set me up for the rest of the day.
Groenplaats from the nearby Elisabeth Metro station should be a simple affair. I have been known to end up on the wrong train and in the wrong direction. Unless I am mistaken the information boards and even the front of the train, flash up the starting point, not the end destination. Today, I had the choice of Metro 3 or 5, and got the direction right. I had three journeys left on my De Lijn ticket purchased last year, and have three days in which to use them. No problem, well not for me, but on the train, a very strange experience.
A young lady of African heritage sat opposite. A Middle Eastern couple, with wean, sat behind here. For reasons unknown , the week girl grabbed the lady’s Afro hair-do, as in truly grabbed it, and pulled. I was half expecting a wig to fly off, but this could have been real hair.
In a previous time, the parents would have been mortified and dealt with the offending wean, not today. In a tone of which Sgt. Wilson of Dad’s Army would have been proud, the parents suggested to the wean that she should cease. Alas, this was to no avail, the handful of hair was tugged further.
All those in the carriage witnessed the horror story, nobody has it on video.
The Historich Centrum of Antwerpen is always a joy to see. It does stand out from the relative blandness of the rest of the city. The Hector strode confidently around the Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekathedraal, in company, Elfde Gebod would have been the chosen venue for Bier #1, as the sad lonely drinker, ‘t Paters Vaejte seemed the better option.
With many sitting outside in the bright sunshine, I strode past and secured one of the many empty tables inside. The young ladies serving were most attentive.
Bolleke (Stadsbrouwerij De Koninck, Antwerpen, België) at 5.2%, felt like the perfect start. An Amber Ale, not too sweet, and very much in the Belgian style, cool and refreshing, it didn’t last long.
As I stood up, so both the legs and the head complained. I put this down to the heat, again, I challenge the logic in drinking outside.
Heading west, I reached the Scheldt and decided I needed a photo of the fortification in bright sunlight.
A musical event was getting underway on the adjacent ground. Good luck to those in attendance.
Cafe Pardaf is on the corner at the road crossing, again, emptier inside. Cider is my preferred drink after Curry and so Wild Dry Cider (Oud Beersel, België) at 7.5% was ordered along with some Gouda with Celery Salt. Having maybe scunnered myself in Brugge, it was time to indulge once more.
The Cider was excellent, cool, quaffable, dangerous. Such was the quantity of cheese presented, the Hector was well scunnered once more. More Cider was tempting, but there was a list of venues to get around.
In times gone by, we have met up with a friend of Dr. Stan in Antwerpen, he has shown us around his favourite places. Lo and behold, look who was sitting on the far side of the room. As I did not need – the information – I took my leave. Knowing his route, I should be able to stay one step ahead.
De Ware Jacob is where I had my last ever Bier abroad with Jonathan. It was fitting that I should have the same Bier again. Seef Bier (Antwerpse Brouw Campagnie) at a modest 3.8% is a Wit Bier by taste, but Blond by nature. Suitably hazy, multi-layered flavours, and more powerfully flavoured than many a 5.0%, this Bier kicked Hoegarden’s arse.
A few individuals sat spread around the room. Photographing the place proved to be difficult, even the exterior on my arrival felt wrong. Mein Host was ever vigilant. Modern classic rock played at a non-intrusive volume. A relaxing bar, a good place to pass an hour.
The joy of this route is that the venues are only minutes apart. Billies next, I had only been here once before. With food available, more than just a bar.
With balcony seating, more accommodating than the outside might suggest. This place has a lot going for it. Once again rock at a sensible volume.
A DDH NEIPA (Brasserie Popihn, France) stood out on the board. At 6.5%, a sensible abv, and with Motueka, Mosaic and Nelson Sauvin hops, this turned out to be the best Bier of this trip, to date.
I sat at the bar and engaged the barman as and when. There was no surprise when ordered a second, this Bier was that good, the magic blend of hops one seeks, and yet too may do not get close to. Such in the joy of chasing down the NEIPA.
Beerlovers Bar is back near the Centraal railway station. A return to Elisabeth by Metro, no assaults to report this time, though on exiting the Metro, a Polish nutter picked me up, and accompanied me all the way to Beerlovers, then inside. Who knows what he wanted, but fortunately, he could not afford Craft Beer, and so buggered off.
To follow Popihn would take some doing, both my tipples at Beerlovers would be from Brasserie Fauve, France. Rejaillir Le Feu did not live up to its name. A 6.3% NEIPA, the Haze was decent, but was thin. It took a few moments to adjust to this. Mosaic, Simcoe and Sabro hops featured. It could have been better.
I sat at the same table near the ladies facility, same spot as last year because I knew there was a power point. Ironically, also the last spot we found Dr. Stan’s friend, even though on Information Day #1, he insisted he never came here.
As I typed away. Catching up with this nonsense, so the local mosquito population had sounded their trumpets. The Hector is in town. Score draw. J’Irai ou tu Iras was a worrying name for a Bier, given who I was hoping to avoid. A 6.5% CAN, I insisted on pouring it myself. A full haze again decent hops: Citra, Motueka and Simcoe, but not a big hitter.
Maybe this is why some stay put when they find the Bier they want until it is finished, or it’s time for bed and then come back again.
The music here was varied, I would take my leave at 23.00 when French rap became dominant, but not before I had ordered a cd via a well knowing shopping app.
Ellipsis – Monkey III, a Swiss outfit playing Shoegaze, this is what the Hector wants to hear.
Bars and restaurant visited today:
‘t Paters Vaetje – Blaumoezelstraat 1, Antwerpen
Cafe Pardaf – Suikerrui 2, 2000 Antwerpen
De Ware Jacob – Vlasmarkt 19, 2000 Antwerpen
Billies – Kammenstraat 12, 2000 Antwerpen
Beerlovers Bar – Rotterdamstraat 105, 2060 Antwerpen
Iman Hallal – Diepestraat 101, 2060 Antwerpen
Brilliant write up about my favourite place Hector. I’m back there next month but…….bad news potentially about De Garre which is up for sale ! Hopefully it’ll stay the same and not become an Irish Bar or similar. Cheers
Hector replies:
Indeed, too often the next generation are not interested in the catering business.