* The Bier-Traveller Blog * - Bier-Traveller

Poznan Day 2 – The Lone Supper

Posted on April 18, 2016 by Hector

It is somewhat frustrating in the days of Satellite TV when one finds not a single English speaking channel, so it was in Apartment Duo. Still, The Hector was busy as ever, there is always a Blog or twenty to write.

A day to myself in Poznan, a chance to revisit some favourite places and maybe track down some new. Hector and Marg were in Poznan last October with Steve and Louise, nothing was written, and so I have a wealth of knowledge already, but more importantly, enough photos to post the embedded Pages in the above Dropdown Banner. By the end of this Trip I should have a comprehensive coverage of this City, in time for another visit in October.

The Tram Map described Route 8 which would take me from the Sala Ziemi stop outside the Train Station to the far end of the Malta Lake. This still left about a 1km walk to the Lake itself, however, time and effort was not an issue.

The Curry at Taj India was worth the effort. That the service was a bit slow again did not matter, I had all day. This Polska Trip was originally conceived to be Monday to Friday in Poznan with The Rickmeister and Stewart. Only in the last week did The Man from Bradford deign to inform me that Monday meant a 23.00 arrival, I’ll see them tomorrow.

Chmielnik was spotted in passing yesterday when the mission was Rowing Jack. Today some new Piwa had to be sampled. The desired Bier Style was described, the Chap serving suggested Tap 4 – Kryz Poludnia (5.%) is a NZPA (Browar Reden, Polska). Southern Cross – as it translates was a worthy first Piwa of the day, whilst – in the style – it did not quite give the – Wow – as one hoped. This is how high the bar is set with Polish Craft Bier. Other Sources have this as an APA, however this is certainly made with NZ Hops. More please.

The wi-fi permitted further write-ups, though who knows how long it will take to write up this week, The India Trip is such a major task. Chmielnik is a very pleasant place to sit, the view to the garden reminds that Piwna Stopa is across the way, but does not open until 16.00. The afternoon is young, Dom Piwa should open around then too. 16Zl is a couple of Zloty more than one pays elsewhere for Piwa.

Dom Piwa impressed last October when I first visited, I shall be coming here on every Trip to Poznan, how many more this year? 10 Hops (5.7%) is an APA by Birbant, Polska. I have previously enjoyed their White AIPA (6.6%) whose Cascade Hops were seriously in the face. I took my Piwa upstairs to one of the two empty rooms above. It was still early for those who work. 10 Hops is Amber-Gold and did the job, though the name suggested it could have been more. But then, Six Hops by Dark Star (Partridge Green, West Sussex) does not IMHO live up to its number rating either.

And so to Piwna Stopa.

Piwna Stopa is the standout venue in Poznan. The table at the top left of the room is where I have sat on nearly every visit, why change now?

The Board looked the same as yesterday, time to gamble and try something new once more. I have never tried a Bier by Kraftwerk, Polska, I had to, if only so that I could text Howard and tell him how much I dislike Krafterk. Citrinitas is listed elsewhere at 5.7%, The Board clearly shows 6.5%, whose error? Smoked Chili – was the given description, indeed, there was enough to notice but this was at the expense of the Hops. I would have this again, but not when my Favourite Piwa is staring down at me.

Hector was here until the bladder insisted I move. The Lone Supper cannot leave a table with all the electronics on display, or can he? This is Polska, in the many visits, there has been no sense of trouble, discomfort, crime. Maybe next time I’ll risk leaving my worldy goods unguarded.

Rowing Jack (6.2%) (Ale Browar, Polska) is Hector’s Favourite Tipple, the reason for being here. Simcoe, Chinook, Citra, Cascade, and Palisade Hops all feature. This is the most cheek-sucking experience one has encountered. The IBU is 70, other Biers are higher, but nothing else does it for me, so much. Bier Heaven.

I watched the place fill up, people of all ages, all here to appreciate Bier. There is an acceptable range of Bottled Cider too, it was at Piwna Stopa that Marg discovered Cider last October. Finally, I had to go.

Stary Rynek was not too busy this Monday evening, people were heading to the Bars that The Hector would never consider, cheap Eurofizz on sale. Crossing to the south east corner I went up the hill towards 27 Grudnia. Minesterstwo Browaru was where I had my first Piwa in Poznan, guess. Having checked The Board yesterday, I though it time to try something Bottled. Doctor Brew, Polska have impressed in the years of visiting Polska. Their Summer Ale (4.2%) is quite a step down from 6.2%, a challenge. Again, US Hops to the fore, always refreshing, a Piwa I look out for.

Once the seal is broken there is no stopping. This made Ministerstwo a one Piwa venue., anyway, I was seeing Pink Elephants.

A taxi home, appreciably less than last night’s to Sala Ziemi which is closer.

The Restaurant and Bars visited today:

Taj India – Wiankowa 3, Poznan, Polska

Chmielnik – Zydowska 27, 61-761 Poznan, Polska

Piwna Stopa – Szewska 7, 61-760 Poznan, Polska

Minisertrstwo Browaru – Ratajczaka 34, 61-815 Poznan, Polska

Posted in Poznan | Comments Off

Steven Wilson is in Poznan today, so is Hector.

Posted on April 17, 2016 by Hector

The train from Wroclaw was chosen so as to arrive in Poznan for the start of the second half of the Old Firm Match. I expected the Plush Carriage and Service we had last year moving between Warszawa and Katowice, I even bought a First Class Ticket at a whole £3.00 more. I found myself in a six seater carriage with one other Chap. I offered to let him see my Replacement Samsung but he was not bothered by a Rangers v Celtic Football Match. Why do the British Media tell us this game is avidly watched across the Planet?

The Mobdro App let me see about ten seconds in every minute, the signal strength varied, frozen screen was the norm. Rangers taking the lead was unexpected, we should not be playing Them off the park, we were. As the train pulled into Poznan, so the equaliser was scored. Ten minutes later I had checked in to Apartment Duo (£70.00 for five nights), game on. Minimal freezing, maximum enjoyment. Penalty kicks. My flatmates were probably curious as to why loud cheers were emanating from the room at the back. Yay!

Had my room been facing the front, I would have been able to see Sala Ziemi where tonight’s concert would be held. I walked up the street but could see no obvious entrance to a Theatre. I could see no Theatre, just gates, locked. There was nobody to ask. Worry later, there is Curry and Bier to be had, just enough time for both.

The Shivaz Curry House was found despite the address being totally misleading. I had a couple of hours left for Piwa.Ministerstwo did not have Rowing Jack (Ale Browar, Polska) in Bottle or Draught, I did not hang about. Setka is just around the corner, or so I thought. One venue that I was really looking forward to visiting again – Closed!

The walk from 27 Grudnia to Stare Miasto is moments. Poznan’s Square does not rival Krakow or Wroclaw, but has its own charm, I suppose. The 1960s Monstrosity in Stary Rynek says it all.

Out the far side of the Rynek is Dom Piwa , they had Rowing Jack in Bottles last October, my best chance of finding some on this, my third day in Polska. Success, Joy. With Four US Hops, this is my Favourite Bier on the Planet, currently. It disappeared very quickly,leaving time for a quick visit to what is my Favourite Pub in Poznan – Piwna Stopa.

A quick glance at The Board, there it was, Rowing Jack on Tap. I acknowledged the Barman, I think he served us last year, the Chaps in here are always Friendly and Helpful. I took a seat, in fact, the very seat I occupied with Marg, Steve and Louise last October. Hector is Home. In October this year – The Official 60^th Birthday Trip – is scheduled for Wroclaw – Poznan – Gdansk. We shall be spending time here.

A Taxi Doris took me back to Sala Ziemi, she had no idea where to drop me. The Steven Wilson Concert somehow belongs in the Sister Blog, this is how it is.

An Outstanding Day, A Rangers Victory, I saw most of the Match, Very Good Curry, Rowing Jack and a Concert which justified the entire Polska Trip.

Tonight, I am a very Happy Old Hector.

The Bars and Restaurant visited today:

Dom Piwa – 2, Mokra 2, 61-766 Poznan, Polska

Piwna Stopa – Szewska 7, 61-760 Poznan, Polska

Restauracja Indyjska Shivaz – Mielzynskiego 16, 61-829 Poznan, Polska

Posted in Poznan | 1 Comment

Wroclaw – Day 2 – A City Explored

Posted on April 16, 2016 by Hector

There was little choice but to stay put, a thunderstorm was forecast for around 11.00. This was not a good time to leave the Ibis Centrum, time instead to Blog making full use of the courtesy wi-fi.

Wroclaw is famous for its Dwarves which have been placed sporadically around the City, let’s not forget the longer established sculptures.

In preparation for the Big Hector Trip in October 2016, it was good to establish that it is little more from the Ibis to the Rynek. En route one passes a Scottish Bar, heaven forbid. I tried the door just to see. The door opened but Doris informed me quickly they were not open. One can only imagine the horrors that are purveyed here.

Brunch was the first requirement of the day. A possible venue was closed already, The Hector chose a Vegetarian/Vegan Café – Najadacze.pl. Fear not, I have not lost the plot.

Thereafter it was north-west to the Oder/Odra which skirts the edge of Stare Miasto, the attraction here was the Hala Targova (Market Hall) which houses the only known Multi-Tap House open at Lunchtime – Targova Craft Beer and Food. It was here that Hector made a very poor choice.

The hoped for Hoppy Piwa did not shout off the Board, Old Lager (Dr. Brew, Polska) at a mere 7.9% somehow seemed to be a good idea for the first Bier of the day. Dr. Brew is one of my Favourite Polish Breweries, what could go wrong? What was served, and yes I chose the half-litre, was a Dark, Muddy, and Stronger version of the Ale served at U Fleku in Praha. Taking a seat at a bench at the far side of the serving area, I realised that it is a Saturday Lunchtime, well almost, and half of Wroclaw is here. How can we arrive Mob-handed in the Autumn?

The Old Lager was too much, the glass was abandoned half full, or was it half empty. There were other places to see.

A bit of Kultur, I wandered through the Hala Targova, this should keep Marg amused whilst the rest of us claim seats in October.

The only venue resembling a Milk Bar which revealed itself was also a few metres south towards the Stare Miasto. Bar Jacek i Agatka is one for the future.

Back at Rynek I had an hour to pass before the Best Piwa Houses would open at 16.00. There was nothing for it, the Bierhalle it had to be. Ten years ago this would have been Bier Makka, a German-style Microbrewery in Polska. A Bar at the door was where I stopped first. The range of Piwa was shown by a cooperative Waitress. It was suggested I go upstairs to the larger room, meanwhile it was too cold and wet to consider the extensive outdoor seating area on the Square. Marcowe (Browarmia Royal, Polska) at 5.8% is an Oktoberfest-style, semi-filtered, Deutsche Bier. Unfortunately, it was everything that The Company has moved on from. The Homemade Taste was there, the Old World Hops. Drinkable, yes, but slowly. One or two Chaps sat alone at adjacent tables, were they also waiting for better times?

The Upstairs Waitress provided the wi-fi code, nay luck, still didn’t work. Still, the Replacement Samsung provided a decent enough signal. At 15.55 it was time to leave, if Robin from last night was to be believed, 4 Hops would be a highlight. Turning east on to Oswiecimskich, 4 Hops was a few minutes off the main stretch.

As one has come to accept in Polska, the new premises which are springing up around the country are Drinking Rooms, in time they may develop atmosphere. With Sixteen Taps to choose from one is virtually guaranteed to find Piwa in-the-style at 4Hops.

Ogrodnik (Profesja, Polska) at 6.0% is an IPA from another highly regarded Polska Browar. Full of the required New World Hops, this was Excellent. One could easily have settled down to a Session on this, however, there was another Piwa which had to be sampled. Papryk Swayze (Hopium, Polska) again at 6.0% is an APA. The drinking belied the abv, more quaffable than the Ogrodnik, there was a Hop-Hit but nowhere near as intense. Papryk Swayze, Browar Hopium are into this, I had their Moralyn Monroe in Bydgoszcz last year, which is probably Hoppier then this one.

Whilst I sat with the Netbook, others played Board Games, Children were even allowed on the premises, time to leave.

Prohibicja is along the same street, west of Rynek and next door to Kontynuacja. This basement venue was discovered last night searching for the latter. Once again it had a Board worthy of consideration, however as before the place was stowed, not welcoming to The Lone Supper. If I was thirty years younger, a different story.

I took the same stool in Kontynuacja as last evening but this time would sit alone. The Bar Staff acknowledged me, I was recognised by at least three Staff, welcoming. The Board had minor changes. Krakow’s very own would be the first Bier here, been to the Brewery have the t-shirt. Big Schmielowski (Browar Pracownia Piwa, Krakow, Polska) was a mere 4.4%. They brew Piwa at this strength? The Bier name may imply – Big Hops – alas the low abv meant the Bier was too thin, The Taste was therefore not forthcoming. Desperate measures called for, The Hector was studying a Pils!

There are few Pils I can drink, especially the Deutsche versions, far too perfumed for my Palate. It may well be this style of Bier which first registered the current disappointment, which could develop in time to an intolerance of Deutsche Bier. Hopefully not.

Zloty Pisiont (Browar Artezan, Polska) at 5.0% still felt a bit on the Thin side. With Amarillo and Simcoe Hops this had to be taken seriously, there was no perfume here. It would have been good to compare with this with the Pacific Pale Ale, same Pub, same Brewery, last night. Browar Artezan make some impressive Piwa.

I had one more InnerCity venue yet to explore – Academus. This was relatively easy to find, signage always helps. Accommodation too, maybe next time. The choice of Piwa was decidedly Mainstream, a range, if it can be called this, or Czech and Polish Standard Piwa. I asked the barman for something Hoppy, he was no help whatsoever. Small Bier, who knows what? This was Sweet and pretty horrible, as I feared the previous Pils may have been. Despite my cellar locus Marg was able to communicate, Hector was not alone.

It may have been a long day, I had to return to ZUP. The place was quieter than last night, some of the Staff maintained, new Peeps too. The final Bier of the day was Pan IPani (Trzech Kumpli, Polska) at 6.0%. This is a Wheat IPA, interesting. Imagine Andechs Weizen meets IPA, with that description maybe there had to be another.

The taxi rank was bypassed, it was possible to walk back to the Ibis, hang on, why bother…

The hotel, pubs, possible microbrewery, and restaurant visited today:

Ibis Wroclaw Centrum – Powstancow Slaskich 7b 53332 – Wroclaw, Polska

Targowa – Craft Beer and Food – ul. Piaskowa 17, Wroclaw, Polska

Bierhalle – Rynek 24, 50-101 Wroclaw, Polska

4Hops – Ofiar Oswiecimskich 46, Wroclaw, Polska

Prohibicja – Ofiar Oswiecimskich 17, 50-069 Wroclaw

Academus Pub & Apartments – Kiebanicza 23, 50-001 Wroclaw, Polska

Kontynuacja – Ofiar Oswiecimskich 17, 50-069 Wroclaw, Poland

Zaklad Uslug Piwnych – ZUP – Ruska 34, 50-079 Wroclaw, Poland

Posted in Wroclaw | Comments Off

Polska – The Steven Wilson Week – Day #1 in Wroclaw

Posted on April 15, 2016 by Hector

Wroclav Apr16 Bier-Traveller (42)

The Ryanair flight to Wroclaw is a perfect time, no early rise in Glasgow, one arrives in Wroclaw in time of the Pubs opening. Not a lot happens in Wroclaw before 16.00 unless one knows exactly where to go. On arrival at the Nicholas Copernicus Airport @15.00 Hector had little clue, by the end of today I was well briefed.

The service bus seemed to take an hour to leave the Airport Complex, it was way cheaper than a taxi, first Piwa paid for in effect. Google Maps managed to locate my Ibis Hotel booking at the wrong locus. Even though I knew where my hotel is, I still went to the Ibis Styles, just in case. It was a ten minute walk westwards to the Ibis Centrum, the former Orbis by all accounts.

Opened just the week before, the entrance was not where one would expect, the elevators were set up strangely, at least the room was as expected.

There was a short period of hibernation, no point going out in that rain, time to put in perspective the locations of Pubs and Curry Houses. First things first, a walk back to the train station to purchase a train ticket to Poznan on Sunday. Steven Wilson (Porcupine Tree), is why Hector is in Polska days before the rest of The Due Company, roll on Sunday evening. On Sunday afternoon there is a Minor Sporting Event taking place at Hampden Park. Depending on the result, it could become a Major Event.

Had I gone straight from the Ibis to Pub Stacja it would have been under ten minutes, a Kebab Shop spotted for later perhaps. Oh, some Late Night Establishments, shall we call them, in the railway arches.

There was a choice of 12 Biers on Tap, Biale IPA (Browar Artezan, Polska) at 5.6% was the first Bier of The Trip. I first had this at the excellent Piwna Stopa in Poznan and found it served uncharacteristically Flat. Biale, I know is White, so presumably a Wheat content. The Hops were there, that is why The Hector is here, in Polska they put Hops in their Piwa, and then some more.

Hector Naypals was not in the least concerned about Supping Alone, the Samsung Netbook is making its Final Trip, I am still busy writing up The India Trip. A Big Event at the end of this month will see the Netbook superseded. This is how I perceive – Retirement.

I could now see that it was a straight walk from the Ibis Centrum to the Stare Miasto as I headed into town. The Outer Ring Road and Canal means that Wroclaw is set up almost identically to Koblenz and Düsseldorf. It would be difficult toget lost, it’s just a matter of coming to terms with the distances. Approaching the Rynek, I passed the type of Bars that sell nothing but Eurofizz. Even Tank Piwa has lost its charm. A Bierhalle was located in the heart of Rynek, one for tomorrow. The Zloty Pies – Golden Dog was reportedly closed, the signage was there, nothing else to report.

There had to be Curry-Heute, what does one expect when The Hector is left to his own devices? The Masala Grill & Bar served me two Main Courses, one was memorable for the right reasons.

Back across Rynek and retracing my steps I came to the street named after the most dreaded of Polish Settlements, here lies Kontynuacja, the venue which stands out currently most in Beerpubs.pl. It took three attempts to find the right door, Polish addresses are difficult, I was in Prohibicja first, and another Bland Bar. Prohibicija had potential, was mobbed and was not for The Lone Supper.

There was one bar stool free in Kontynuacja, I climbed on, the Netbook still being worn. Whatever happens this stays on. The Bier from Browar Artezan was first encountered in Bydgoszcz last October, the IPA served there was Magnificent. I had to try the Pacific Pale Ale at 5.0%. For a Piwa, this is not particularly high in abv. It was not the Hoppiest, but was certainly in – The Style – which is sought after.

Goodnight

The Chap on my right was busy in conversation, English was being spoken, his mate left. This was Robin from Liverpool, an Everton fan. There’s two of them. Robin has been living in Wroclaw for years, he knows the score. He confirmed the venues I had worked out doing my own research, and most importantly, supplied one which opens before the rest. Lunch tomorrow is sorted.

The venue was too stowed to get decent photos, anyway, the Bier and the Conversation is why we were here.

Robin recommended the Oatmeal IPA (Marwari, Polska) at 6.0%. As I recall it had just gone on, and Doris behind the Bar had supplied a sample. She was looking after us very well. It was so good, I had another as Robin was summoned by his other half. The Cloudy appearance should not be off-putting, this had the required Hop Hit. A Piwa to remember.

There was a brief flirtation with the thought of Arrogant Bastard American – Strong Ale, I had to move on.

ZUP

Last summer, Kuba, Mein Host at Chmielarnia, Warszava, gave me a Bier-mat with a written message to his counterpart here at ZUP in Wroclaw. Robin had confirmed this was definitely worth the visit and explained that – ZUP – is an acronym. Google Maps took me across another part of Rynek I had not seen in daylight, there is more to this Square than I first thought, impressive. Locating the address, there was only a Eurofizz Pub. A Chap was determined that I would pay to go and look at bare naked ladies, Hector was on a different mission. Back to Beerpubs.pl. The address for Zaklad Uslug Piwnych was recomputed, a ten minute walk.

Arriving at Ruska 34 I found the Boogie Hostel, no ZUP. Most of the block was in scaffolding, I asked Chaps standing outside. They spoke neither English or Polish, Bloody Tourists! Useless. I headed back to town, through the scaffolding, then remembered Chmielarnia, we were standing outside but couldn’t see it. I went back to the address, walked though the Throng and found a staircase to the Basement – ZUP!

Greetings!

I hadn’t even reached the Bar when I was welcomed with open arms by The Chaps occupying the Bar Corner. The Saltire on the Polo-shirt did it all, I was here to discover Ale, the task was suddenly made more simple, Translator in situ. Fajrant IPA (Browar Zakladowy, Polska) at 4.5% was deemed to be the Session IPA. This was Bland for a Polska Piwa, but had some Hops, Session indeed. Bring it on! My Sister, the real one, was in touch, – what does Fajrant mean? The end of a physical job.

Football, Whisky, the usual, The Chaps kept me entertained and introduced me to the Bar Staff. The Kuba Connection from Warszawa was completed, everyone knows Kuba. A bit of Politics, The Chaps here consider themselves to be as German as they do Polish, they are young, they have not been though what their parents and grandparents experienced. More Piwa!

Next up was another White IPA, Topaz American Weizen (Browar Inne Beczki, Polska) at 6.0%. This was more like it, American Hops and a suitable Tang. It was well after midnight, the session continued. Cieszynkskie (Browar Zamkowy, Polska) at 8.5% should provide a good end to the evening. A Saison Bier? This Amber Ale was full of the Polish Piwa Flavour, how they combine the Hops. There was a slight sweetness, at this abv, not a surprise.

All Good Things…

Hang on, this is Day 1, six more nights of this? I bought a Kebap…. and a Taxi.

The hotel, pubs and restaurant visited today:

Ibis Wroclaw Centrum – Powstancow Slaskich 7b 53332 – Wroclaw, Polska

Pub Stacja – Wojciecha Bogusawskiego 11, 50-023 Wroclaw, Poland

Kontynuacja – Ofiar Oswiecimskich 17, 50-069 Wroc?aw, Poland

Zaklad Uslug Piwnych – ZUP – Ruska 34, 50-079 Wroclaw, Poland

Masala Grill & Bar – Kunicza 3-5, Stare Miasto, Wroclaw, Polska

Posted in Wroclaw | 1 Comment

Agra – New Delhi, The End is Nigh

Posted on April 3, 2016 by Hector

Marg and Hector were last on the bus this morning, there was a Cash Crisis looming again What had we spent our money on? Nothing actually, today was Tip Day. The last of the Euros was converted, we need enough to cover Dinner this evening, and were unsure about the arrangements for Lunch. We had seen Toll Roads at Gurgaon as we passed through on our way to Rajahstan. The road from Agra to New Delhi was as close to motorway as one might find in India. Much of the road was elevated when it crossed through established settlements thus avoiding congestion. In fact, this highway was quiet except when vehicles overtook on the inside and out – Toot -too-toot.

Lunch turned out to be a Pit-Stop at the equivalent of a Motorway Service Station. Neither of was particularly hungry, Spicy Crisps sufficed. We don’t get Crisps like this in the UK. Crossing into New Delhi, the Coach Curtains were tied up, farewell to roaming cows.

Gandhi’s House

First thoughts were the contradiction of such a Modest Man. The interior of the House had various attempts at museum exhibits, some more convincing than others. The Life-story was told in pictures. The gardens were perhaps the best part of this Historic Site, it was here Gandhi was shot, poignant. Again, there was a time-line relating his early years in South Africa before moving on to London then finally back to India. Marg may have seen Attenborough’s movie, Hector unbelievably has not.

Another Museum?
I cannot say I felt any great sense of enthusiasm as we entered the National Museum. An hour, to look at weapons and embroidery. As a Geographer I was drawn to the world Map, it showed the parallel development of Civilisations across the planet. I had to explain to some the meanings of B.C.E. and C.E. Rosemary mentioned an Exhibition upstairs. There’s an upstairs? Two more floors, and Hector had paced two thirds of the allotted time on the ground floor.

Most Impressive
I have often wondered what other religions there were to rival Judaism in the years B.C.E. That there was another which has survived in part to this age is all the more remarkable. Zarathustra, Parsis, The Magi, Freddie Mercury too.

The Lotus Temple

The Final Stop of the Grand Tour was near to the Lotus Temple, that we were not going in bemused. There’s nothing to see inside, we didn’t even go in the compound, photos through the gaps in the perimeter. And so we bade – Farewell – to Nevandra our Driver, Raj his Assistant and Water Wallah. We were told that they would be away with another Group tomorrow. Finally, Bhupendra, Bhupi, whom I can now reveal is opening a very Posh Hotel. This Chap is very much part of India’s Aristocracy. He undertakes his handful of Tours each year to pay for the education of the Children whose Father died after sucking snake poison from Bhupi’s Father. Honourable.

The Suryaa Hotel

Standing in the foyer waiting for our room keys, someone spotted a sign – Happy Hour. Hector went to check this out. Until 20.00 one could enjoy – Buy one get one free, or for Rs 999 all the Bier you could drink, with a Starter. Everyone was doing mental arithmetic. See you in The Bar as soon as…

Marg wished to swim, Hector accompanied as far as the pool-side. See you later, Dear.
The Usual Suspects were sitting at one end of a high and long table. Ladies had wine Chaps had Bier, or did they? One Bier will never be named in this Blog, is this all they have? The Menu showed the various Kingfishers and more. Needs must, it’s hot out there. Before I had achieved the halfway mark in Bottle #1, Karina had a Tête à Tête with The Waiter to establish why Drinks were coming one at a time and could they do a Bottle of Wine. The Waiter admitted to having two Bottles only of Kingfisher Ultra, bring them here right now – was Hector’s directive. The Freebie was also summoned and passed along the table to someone less fussy.

And so the next hour or so was set up. The Maitre d’ made an appearance in the Basement Bar. After consultation with his staff he approached The Hector. As long as you are here it is Happy Hour. Bring it on.

Marg joined the expanding Company after her swim. The Final Dinner would be taken in the bustling area immediately outside the Suryaa Hotel, meanwhile Marg was hungry. A snack was summoned, others ordered their Dinner here. Meanwhile the Final of the Cricket was on TV, perhaps this had something to do with the offer to keep us here. Fifteen of the Twenty feature in the photos, methinks everyone was there at some point.

There is life outside

Around 21.00, Hector felt it was time to go in search of The Final Curry. The usual Chains were represented, we’ve done Pizza. Pebble Street – was the eatery that had shown up on Google Maps. On the ground it did not hold the required appeal. The area was stowed, most Eateries were stowed and or Vegetarian. The Rampur Kitchen came into view, this would provide – The Last Hurrah – and provide a worthy conclusion to The Trip.

Party on

Back at the Suryaa a few stragglers remained. When the cricket stopped, Happy Hour stopped, so it goes. We should have been able to have more nights like this.

Breakfast + The Flight home
Breakfast was back to Eggs, various and Fruit Juice. Hector was taking no pre-flight chances. Farewell – some were continuing their Trip to Amritsar, some to the Mountains and so on. The remainder were sat together on the ten and a half hour flight home. Five movies and the Veggie Option. The story of The India Trip 2016 ends where it began – Curry-Heute.

The Hotel and Restaurant visited today:

Suryaa Hotel – New Friends Colony, New Delhi, Delhi 110025, India

Rampur Kitchen

Posted in New Delhi | 1 Comment

Agra, Uttar Pradesh – The Taja Mahal, Agra Fort + I’timad-ud-Daulah

Posted on April 2, 2016 by Hector

By my reckoning, sunrise was after 06.00 in Agra today. This meant an even earlier start than normal to be at the Taj Mahal, presumably for the good light, though late afternoon in my humble opinion can be warmer and create better shadows. Perhaps because of the sheer whiteness of the Palace it is better seen in the pale colour, singular, of dawn.
The Gateway Hotel is only a couple of kilometres from the Taj Mahal, yet we were a half hour in our Coach, and then we still weren’t there. As at Fatehpur Sikri, we had to board a Bus to take us the last kilometre. An Electric Bus it may be thus reducing pollution immediately around the Complex, or just another racket to have people pay more. Yesterday the Entry Price took a significant hike. Is this to pay for the cleaning? Three of four Minarets covered in scaffolding, when was this planned. When did the Tour Company know of this? Should they have told us at the time of booking? Would anybody have chosen to undertake The Golden Triangle this year had they known in advance? Still, we were here.
The regulations about what cannot be taken on site were rigorous. For once we went through a metal scanner where they took it seriously. We were told – no bags – for those arriving by independent means, this is impossible. The Ladies Queue took longer.
As is the Architectural style, there was an impressive Portal to the compound before one finally gets the first glimpse of this most famous of buildings.

There was a crowd
Bhupi had to do his bit, telling us how Shah Jihan had the place built as a Memorial and Burial Place for his favourite wife, Mumtaz. Built totally in White Marble, his plan was to have a Black Marble version built across the Yamuna River with a bridge connecting the two sites. This never came to be, Shah Jihan lies beside his wife, the only part of the construction which is asymmetrical.
Zoom lenses come in handy, they can remove the mass of people if one is elevated. The most famous viewing platform is halfway along the garden approach to the Palace itself. Professional Photographers hog the #1 Bench for their customers. One could wait, or come back later in the day. Still, we had our own Diana with us, she did not require a Bench.
The water features were not active, again shoddy for the once in a lifetime visitor. There was a Kingfisher, the flying variety, this would make Marg’s day. With shoe coverings in place, we entered the Taj Mahal itself, polishing the floors as we progressed.
No photos were permitted in the Burial Chamber, not that this is the real one. In all of the Mausoleums visited, the Grave one sees is a replica of the real one underneath and out of sight.
I have marvelled previously about the symmetry of the Taj Mahal, from whatever angle you look at it, the same view maintains. The alcoves are magnificent in their decoration. As the sun became higher so these showed their splendour. The view back to the Gateway also improved, as did the awareness of the two remaining Gates. Everything is done in – Fours – in Moghul Architecture. Just the three Minarets in scaffolding then. We had to accept it, close up it was less of an issue, however, one’s photos will not be as good as those who subsequently visit.

The two youngest members of The Group, Manisha and Karina, had dressed up for a special Photo-shoot. Tina, too. It was Marg who recorded this sequence.

As the sun became higher still, the shadows made the Taj Mahal appear even more outstanding. So why Dawn, one or two hours after may be better? On the east side, the Taj Mahal eventually started to reflect the sunlight. Straining to avoid fencing, a Chap offered to let us through for a small consideration. Why he was permitted to stand here and authorise this is part of the petty corruption Hector deplores. No thank you.

Breakfast
We were back at the Gateway Hotel, as per yesterday, it was Curry o’clock. Having resisted the Interesting Part of the Hotel Buffet Breakfasts, just in case, the digestive system was feeling confident. As ever, Curry-Heute.com fills in the details.
With the temperature rising, 40°C is The Hector Comfort Zone, it was back out into our air-conditioned Bus with Raj handing out chilled bottles of water. For the first three days the water was, as it came, isn’t it wonderful when Indians realise that fridges are not instant coolers?

Agra Fort
Could anything compete with Amber Fort? Twenty four hours in Agra and one is becoming used to the layout. The Bridge across the Yamuna has to be approached by a roundabout route. We passed the Lady Dobie Wallahs spreading the washing on the river banks. One can move from Luxury to the opposite end of the spectrum in minutes, yet still, as I taught for thirty four years: in societies where there are no Freebies, people have to work.

Thoughts go back to the Egyptian Farmers who gave up in favour of opening yet another Trinket Shop in the Souq. The same has happened here, mechanisation has driven people off the land (ouch!). How many customers per day when everyone sells the same old rubbish? One has to admire the Chaps driving the overloaded Rickshaws or whatever means of transport are within their budget.

Approaching High Noon, Agra Fort was looking popular. If everyone does the Taj Mahal at daybreak, then this is next – must do. The Moat was impressive, the Entrance Portal once again gave no clue as to what lay behind. Bhupi did his bit, possibly the least portable Bath on The Planet was marveled at. What has changed, to be so indulged, the haves and have less, nothing.
Sandstone gave way to Marble. The House of The Favoured Wife, her Rival, Jahangir, the Wicked Son who poisoned his Father, The Mother in cahoots. The stories are told, what remains is Architecture, the realisation that so few rooms have walls until one reaches – The Private Places. Doors are locked, part of the Fort remains off-limits to Tourists, a Mosque. As with Fatehpur Sikri, this is a substantial part of the complex. This did not rival Amber Fort, however, there was more to it than the Taj Mahal, the unexpected, what is behind the next Portal?

Hector was finally asked to pose with a Local, a Chap, later entire Families, was it the Red T-shirt? Prog Rules – they thought they recognised the Logo, tee-hee.

We had the afternoon free. There was an optional excursion later today, we all signed up, that is how our Group is. What to do?
I enquired as to how warm the Water was in t’Pool yesterday, Marg suggested it was within acceptable parameters. In we go, Hector swimming #2. Marg has plans for me when I get home.

There was a Buffet Dinner at the hotel this evening, our Final Buffet, a Late Lunch was mooted. We braved the Outside, retracing the steps of last evening. Pizza anyone? We had the choice of Dominoes or Pizza Hut, we chose the latter. Pizza, Italian Cuisine, or is it? Never did The Hector think that Pizza Hut would appear on Curry-Heute. It simply had to.

I’timad-ud-Daulah

No wonder they call this – The Baby Taj – I’timad-ud-Daulah – does not exactly roll of the tongue, plus having seen a few Indian Mausoleums on this Trip, they are all heavily influenced architecturally by what has come before. I blame – The Planners.

Security was less evident at this site, one could take all the photos one desired. Sadly graffiti adorned one section which was in juxtaposition to the fact that we were wearing our shoe coverings retained from the Taj Mahal this morning.

Mother Taj
This extra outing concluded with a return to the Taj Mahal, well almost. We found ourselves in the Park across the Yamuna River, the site where the Black Taj was originally planned by Shah Jihan for his own Tomb. We had been sold on seeing the Taj Mahal at Sunset. We arrived around 17.30 a full hour before the Replacement Samsung revealed the sun would set.
From our vantage point we could see the land along the riverbank adjacent to the Taj Mahal. There are some interesting looking Fortifications which have fallen into disrepair. Maybe Agra does not need further Tourist Attractions at this locus.
Our Group ended up sitting on the grass waiting for the setting sun to create perfect light and long shadows, not this evening. There was a haze on the horizon, nothing happened. We departed five minutes before sunset. What did we miss?

Staying in, in Agra
Tonight, The Final Buffet and despite the Lamb, a disappointment. Those who had gone to find Bier last night were not for going out there again. About half of us assembled informally in the Bar area. A couple of ripoff Kingfishers before calling it a day. We have had two successive early rises, tomorrow we return to New Delhi.

The hotel and restaurant visited today:

Gateway Hotel – Fatehabad Rd, Tajganj, Agra, Uttar Pradesh 282001, India

Pizza Hut – 8, Handicraft Nagar, Fatehabad Rd, Tajganj, Agra, Uttar Pradesh 282001, India

India Trip 2016 – Day 8 – Agra – New Delhi – The End is Nigh

Posted in Agra, Uttar Pradesh | 2 Comments

Agra, Uttar Pradesh – via Fatehpur Sikri and Sikandra

Posted on April 1, 2016 by Hector

April 1st continued

Today we arrive in Agra, tomorrow we are going to see the Taj Mahal. How many Palaces, Tombs and Forts have we visited by this, Day 6? Fatepur Sikri is certainly a destination that one may never have heard of, though on the road from Jaipur to Agra it fits well into The Golden Triangle.
The signage in the car park amused as ever. The Indians may pride themselves on the perfection of their English, the sign writers may be in on the joke.

As we alighted, a tall Tower-like construction appeared to be our objective. Bhupi, our guide, led us in the other direction. Maybes later.
We have come to know that the exterior of Indian Architecture is all a Facade (sorry), it is what lies beyond the first Gate that is the focal point of any visit. However, we have become used to Ourselves being an attraction too.

Fatehpur Sikri

The best of Bhupi’s – Explanations – today was the bed of Akbar The Great. He was only four foot eighth, allegedly. His bedroom had water traps, not to drown any would-be assassins, but so that they might make a noise as they approached. Akbar’s Bed was higher off the ground than he could see, one has to wonder about the height of his Concubine’s sleeping places.

The Buildings as ever make one marvel as progression is made through the complex. Some of the stone carvings were very Harry Potter-like, reminiscent of the moving stairways in the first movie.

What was the Big Tower on the other side of the car park? An active Mosque, perhaps.

The Replacement Samsung confirmed we were on the outskirts of Agra, time to stop, again. It has been a long day.

Sikandra
This is the burial place of Akbar The Great, so today we have been to his Playground Palace, now pay homage. One might think that the Moghul Architecture is starting to look the same… they were more blatant in – their inspirations – than Led Zeppelin (allegedly).

Ten years from now, Marg will recall Sikandra more than any sight visited on this Tour to date. The Wildlife. The Bambi-variants, the Parakeets, and the Chipmunks playing Possum. This made her day.

Finally, it was time to check-in at the Gateway Hotel. We have travelled by train, had three Breakfasts, and visited all of the above. Priority #1 for Marg was a swim, Hector had a Restaurant Curry in mind. Others did the necessaries and were straight out for a Wine/Bier.
The Travel Company had said we would have Taj Mahal View – rooms. Rosemary, our UK Guide, told us not to be too hopeful. Would expect to see a bit. On our fourth floor room, Marg pulled back the curtain, we are not in Torquay.

Marg had her swim. Despite the temperature rising every day, the thought ofexternally applied Cold Water still did not appeal to The Hector. 41°C is still in my comfort zone as long as it is a Dry Heat, and there is the promise of Cold Bier after sunset. If only swimming pool water was as warm as Kibbutz Ashdot Ya’akov (Me’uchad). Time to get a bit of Blogging done.

Agra Outside
Suitably attired, we left the safety of the Gateway Hotel. Bhupi had put it to us that if the Taj Mahal was not in Agra, then nobody would come to this city. He warned us about the usual harassment from Market Sellers, but described an anticipated Swarm of people wishing to exploit. No eye contact – was his recommended tactic. Nice.

As ever, the Security at the Hotel Gate bade us farewell. For the first time on this trip our Hotel was right in the heart of the action, one hundred metres from a busy junction. Hector had managed to find useful information from – Other Sources – we had approached the Gateway Hotel along the road of Coffee Houses and Restaurants, I had chosen Spice Hut to be the choice. There was a Small Problem.
The Cash Reserves had taken a hammering in Jaipur. The plan was to visit an ATM near our Hotel last night, we had not. Google Maps showed one machine to the right of our Hotel, more to the left, where The Action was.
It was Marg’s turn to withdraw Cash. Had she told her bank she was coming to India? No. First one machine, then the next, nothing. The machines take your card, think about it, ask you for your PIN, take an age, then do nothing. One cannot move on, will the Cash come? Armed Guards were on duty at the kiosks containing the ATMs. The sun had set, today was the most Humid day of our Trip. Frustration? Some Locals managed withdrawals, some did not. It is a Saturday, have all the machines been hammered since Friday?
As we marched further, Marg was offered – Help – she declined, politely That was it, this Chap followed us for ten minutes, back to junction, along the other road, he knew what we wanted, Aye Right. We stopped, he stopped. He’s gone. He’s back. For the first time, possibly this century, Mr. Taylor raised his voice – GO AWAY! He didn’t, but gave in two minutes later. Back to the Hotel.

Hector Elizondo
The new plan was to try and take out Cash from a pre-paid credit card. We had past a Bureau, but thought we should try the Hotel first. Doris on Reception knew nothing. The Maitre d’ was summoned, he was a Hector! I shall give you my car – was his opening remark. I heard this as – I shall give you my card. This made no sense. Another Chap was summoned, The Driver, we were led to a Big F-O Vehicle, he had been instructed to take us to an ATM that worked. I knew where the next ones were thanks to Mr. Google, a greater distance than we were prepared to walk.
As I alighted at the first machine, the Guard said something in Hindi to The Driver. Back to the car. And so it went on. Finally a Kiosk with two machines. The first was empty. The second had Cash, would it give us any? A Local stepped in, he had everyone give us space, the Reverse Ritual was commenced. Rupees! Hundreds of them! We can eat! We did.

It was Hotel ripoff priced Kingfisher thereafter.

Tomorrow, we have to be up even earlier than today to be at the Taj Mahal for sunrise. Why?

The Hotel and Restaurants visited today:

Gateway Hotel

The Silk Route

Spice Hut

India Trip 2016 – Day 7 – Agra, Uttar Pradesh – The Taja Mahal, Agra Fort + I’timad-ud-Daulah

Posted in Agra, Uttar Pradesh, Fatehpur Sikri, Uttar Pradesh | 1 Comment

Jaipur-Bharatpur – The Train to Bharatpur, for Breakfast-Heute #3

Posted on April 1, 2016 by Hector

One can only imagine what time the Wake Up call was to catch the 07.05 Shatabadi Express (I kid you not) to Bharatpur. We were too early for Breakfast and so were issued the Classic Indian Hotel – Breakfast Box. One supposes the hotel had to provide this since we were B&B. Rosemary, our UK Guide, had let slip that we we would be having Breakfast on The Train too – Yay! At Bharatpur our Coach would be waiting to transport us to the Laxmi Vilas Palace, for Breakfast-Heute #3!
Bus, Jeep, Camel-cart, Rickshaw, Tuk-Tuk, the Tour Company are making sure we experience all forms of travel in India, no Boats, again – Yay!

Hector is not a Trainspotter, however, I had to take a photo of my first ever Indian ALCO, I know about these things. Our Loco was also Diesel, and emitted heavenly clouds of muck every time we took off. The labeling on the ancillary coaches caused amusement. Do the Indians know something we don’t?

My allocated seat on the train was beside Simon from Leeds–Bradford. The Trusty Panasonic still had photos of my recent Trip to that part of Yorkshire. I had all the proof that I knew the Best of Leeds and Bradford Pubs. We’ll meet again….

The Indian State Railways Breakfast has to be described in the sister Website as it is Indian Food.

Each Carriage has its own Attendants, Bottled Water was issued early on, then Hot Water and a tea bag, Hector wished coffee…. Hector does not drink Tea outside of Scotland.

In a former life I would have been taking loadsa’ photos from the train. By Coach, one travels along Roads and Highways, Ribbon Development follows, finally, to see the Countryside proper: The Hamlet, The Indian Village. Today we saw Indian Agriculture, the small fields separated by Bunds, the Brickworks, the associated Chimneys, Dung Patties stacked for fuel. Poverty? The two intermediate stops felt like being at that Geographical nonsensity, – The Middle of Nowhere. The Replacement Samsung showed me exactly where I was, India.

Jaipur to Bharatpur was a bit over two hours. Simon and Hector chatted. Our Guides were keen to have us waiting to alight minutes before we reached the station, the train will stop for only two minutes. Where are we, Japan?
Navendra and Raj had welcoming smiles, our luggage was aboard already. This is how to travel.

Bhupi, our Guide, is in the midst of opening a Luxury Hotel. We have got wind of the fact that he does four Tours a year, for reasons yet to be established. Hector Holmes will get to the bottom of this. Anyway, the Laxmi Vilas Palace was verging on The Ridiculous. Even the humblest of establishments call themselves – Palace, this was. Where were the Guests?

A large table was set for The Group, Breakfast-Heute #3.

Everyone back on the bus!

From Bharatpur to Agra was, in theory, less than a couple of hours, freedom? Apparently we were not due to check-in at the Gateway Hotel until 16.00, I overheard Sikandra, on the outskirts of Agra, a change in T’intinerary (sic). Fatehpur Sikri was the next scheduled stop.

India Trip 2016 – Day 6 – Agra, Uttar Pradesh – via Fatehpur Sikri and Sikandra

Posted in Bharatpur, Rajahstan, Jaipur, Rajahstan | 1 Comment

Day 5, Jaipur – Disclocated Day: Another Temple, Another Bier

Posted on March 31, 2016 by Hector

Breakfast is becoming a social event. Gone are the days of each couple/trio sitting at their own tables. We now sit as a Group wherever we go. Everyone knows everyone else, it has taken time but we have gelled amazingly despite the age range of 18 – 80. For Hector, Breakfast is still Fruit and Eggs. There is no sign of anyone suffering, all is well.

Jaipur Birla Temple Bier-Traveller (1) The Birla Mandir Temple was the first destination in our second day in Jaipur. Nothing, except possibly the Taj Mahal, is going to beat yesterday and the Amber Fort. The Birla Mandir was superficially quite a modest building, and very white. On the hill above was the Moti Dungri Fort which was drawing my attention. Why are we not going up to the Fort?
Built in 1998, this is the most modern building we are likely to visit. Bhupi, our guide, informed us that icons from all religions are represented on the exterior. Perhaps, but not mine. Marg became interested in a group of Ladies in the sumptuous gardens. Were they taking flowers or planting them? A Jaipur Hen Night.

Outside the south side of the Old City, in the largest open area seen in Jaipur, lies the Albert Hall. The building itself initially was the attraction rather than the contents. However, having spent an hour inside there was enough to grab one’s attention. A photo of the largest – Bass – stringed instrument I have ever seen, minus the strings, was sent immediately to John Jowitt (Jadis, IQ, Arena). John even replied – not yet – when I suggested he had never played anything this big. The Egyptian Room brought back memories of Hector and Marg’s best ever holiday. Why do I no longer have a friend who works for Kuoni? Some of the models amused us both given the duplication of the photos taken. I took the Oppperchancity of checking out – The Facilities.

Yesterday we bought a carpet at a showroom, today Lunch was at another venue where spending our hard earned cash was a possibility. A Jewellery Store?

No chance. The Black Rum was declined, the Samosa today had Meat, Excellent, Spicy too.
We watched Chaps polishing stones then were taken into the Shop. Some did buy, the Ladies studied what was on offer, one by one the Chaps joined me at the settees in the middle of the room. We’ve had enough of this, time for some fun.

The Itinerary had suggested an optional Walking Tour of the Bazaar et al in the Walled City. Bhupi suggested instead we take a Rickshaw Ride. We were all up for this. The problem as ever, you cannot take your own photo, so thanks to Marie and Alex for sending the photo of Marg and Hector so quickly.

I had only spotted one Rickshaw with a Chap running on foot. In Jaipur the Rickshaws were all bicycles. Some of the Chaps who would do the work were in advanced years, we had a Young Chap. The gradients did not appear much, however, all the Drivers alighted whenever there was a slope.

Along the mains streets of the Old City, past the Hawa Mahal again, down the side lanes, past the cows, we were quite a convoy. Some lowered the sun canopy, we kept our’s in position, it was Hot today. A bottle of water was shared with Our Chap, he was grateful.

Here is the first chance to see the Group Members close up, as ever if anyone does not want their photo on this Website, tell me. Disaster for Hector! Memory Card Full. Why had I brought only one camera today?

At the end of the Ride we escaped! Time to ourselves, in daylight. Marg wanted to buy presents for her Sisters, Hector needed Quality Curry. With Buffet #4 due this evening, it was decided to eat first. As ever, the detail of the Excellent Curry at Niros Restaurant is in the usual place.
Trousers, Pantaloons, is what The Sisters are having. Bhupi advised that the shops had fixed prices, we could haggle a bit, but the price quoted would be – the price. We made the day for the shop we chose. A Cooperative, the Chaps were Students, returning to their studies soon and they needed cash for their books. No credit cards were accepted, Marg spent her Rupees, her Sterling, my Euros. What are the chances that the Sisters will wear these? Sadly, no photos.

Tuk-Tuk

We had to make our own way back to Shahpura House. On any other holiday we would have walked, a couple of kilometres, for us a stroll. This is India, we would have been harassed the whole way back. Ironically, we had to actually go and find a Tuk-Tuk stand. Rs 120 was the agreed fair. Bhupi had given us our address in Hindi, the Driver knew exactly where Devi Marg is in Bani Park. Sri Lanka was the last time we used a Tuk-Tuk. In Galle we ended up with our Own Chap who took us to the Hinterland, his Village. Then we had the time, not on this Trip.

Marg went for a Dip, Hector did some Blogging. It is going to take an age to Blog this Trip.

The Indian Night
Once again we assembled for a Buffet Dinner, this time at the Rooftop Restaurant at Shahpura House where Musicians and Dancers would entertain. A Glass of Wine was included, my first in India, not too shabby. Some went on to order the Bottle, to their sorrow. When they were later asked for in excess of £30.00 per Bottle they knew they had been had.

Hector’s long distance vision spotted a familiar label in the fridge. Stella Artois. So far, my only non-Indian Bier has been Belgian. A change from Kingfisher.
Brian had seen me use the Replacement Samsung on the Bus. Hector likes to know where he is, and where he is headed. Those lovely people at Vodafone only take £5.00 per day to Roam. I helped Brian set up the World Traveller on his phone, same network. Apparently I am a – Clever Chap.
Buffet #4 impressed, however, I did not do it justice, the Outstanding Fish Curry at Niros was still being digested.

Bier o’Clock
The 20-20 Cricket has reached the semi-finals, India were playing again this evening. Adrian had found another Source of Bier, even better he claimed than last night’s RDB Palace.
A couple of blocks away in our Bani Park Compound lies the Shakuntalam Bar & Restaurant. Why did we not find this two nights ago? Why did our Guides not know of this place?

The Group of Revellers included Adrian, Karen and Karina (wife and daughter), Alex, and Marie, Gail and Simon, Allison and Allan, Gio and Avril, Hector and Marg, plus Bhupi. A below ground venue, the place was stowed. The Locals were excited, India had a chance. We squeezed ourselves in. Fitting The Fourteen was not simple, some Locals moved to accommodate us.
Smoking!

Bhupi had – explained to us – how India came to ban smoking in all public places. Being fined for smoking on the street has basically made the disgusting habit disappear. To date, I had seen a handful of people smoking in all the thousands we have encountered. Ashtrays were on the table, four people near us were smoking. Fortunately the combination of fans and aircon kept the air clean.
The Menu

An impressive array of Curry Dishes were on offer. We were here for the Bier. The Prices were right. 650ml Bottles of Kingfisher Blue! It had to be ordered. A 6.0% Lager, this Bier has more body than the Super Strong at 8.0%. At last, a Swally. Here I am in Jaipur and no sign of this IPA, or any other.
Suffice to say, the Group had bonded even more by the time we departed. Bhupi watched, he was on duty.
India lost the Cricket, the place emptied. A Great Night, tomorrow we have an early train to catch. Where next?

The Hotel and Restaurants visited today:

Shahpura House Hotel – Devi Marg, Bani Park, Jaipur, India

Niros Restaurant – Shop N.80, Mirza Ismail Road, Jaipur, Rajasthan, India

Shakuntalam Bar & Restaurant – D157, Kabir Marg, Bani Park, Jaipur

India Trip 2016 – Day 6 – Jaipur-Bharatpur – The Train to Bharatpur, for Breakfast-Heute #3

Posted in Jaipur, Rajahstan | 2 Comments

Jaipur, Rajahstan – A Wonderful Day: A Fort, A Carpet, a Bier

Posted on March 30, 2016 by Hector

Arriving in Jaipur mid-afternoon yesterday, our Group of Intrepid Travellers caught a first glimpse of the Splendour that is – The Pink City. Terra Cotta is more accurate.
Having failed to discover any out-of-hotel Hostelry, it was back to the Shahpura House Hotel for a Bier, but not before Hector and Marg went Vegetarian at the surprisingly good Chit Chat Restaurant.

The Bar was not staffed, to sit in this room would have been naff, there is a pool-side garden where some had chosen to eat their evening meal. Erdinger Weizen was available vom Fass, however the price was laughable, even more-so when the Chap held up the glass. Hoegarden it was, tastier and hopefully not such a rip-off. Allan and Allison joined us after they had dined. An early night was called for after our rather lengthy journey from New Delhi via Patan.

Amber Fort
Stunning! The 11km drive from Jaipur to Amer did not take long. Jaipur is much smaller than New Delhi thus traffic is less hectic. Still, every driver has to – Toot-Toot – at every Opperchancity. We stopped off at Man Sagar, the Jaipur Lake, to pick up three of The Company who had left at dawn to take a Balloon Ride. Last night we had speculated who – The Three – were. We were stunned when Brian and Chris , a couple in their 80’s, boarded the Bus. Brian, like Hector, has a fear of heights. They were amused that the third Balloonist, Avril, had to pay extra for insurance, the octogenarians were too old to be insured!

As we reached the edge the town of Amer, the Bus was parked at the edge of the Maota Lake. Amber Fort dates back to the sixteenth century, not content with one hilltop fort, there appeared to be fortifications everywhere. This was going to be a visit of many photos.
Some ascend directly to the courtyard of the Amber Fort by Elephant. Rosemary, our

British Guide explained that due to insurance, we would be driven by a fleet of Jeeps. Yesterday Camel-pulled carts, today Jeeps, what next?

One is learning that as with Egyptian Temples, one enters through an elaborate gateway to a courtyard, one then progresses through another gateway to yet another courtyard, and so on. The architecture speaks for itself.

The highest areas afford views of the town of Amer, the surrounding hills with both fortifications and a wall which inevitably makes one think of China. Amber Fort, the highlight of The Trip. As we left the Amber Fort we encountered the largest of Cooking Pots, imagine the Curry-Heute.
We stopped once again at Man Sagar this time to take photos of Jah Mahal, – The Floating Palace. So, we were not taking the boat out then? We have not been in a boat. We would only ever see the Hawa Mahal in passing also. A return trip to Jaipur required?

Which stop off cannot be avoided on a tour?

Shree Carpet & Textile Mahal
*

Lunch today was at a Carpet and Textile Workshop. Before going indoors, we were shown the skills of dye printing, Tina volunteered to have a go. We marvelled at the Chaps and Chapattisworking away weaving carpets, then we were taken inside.

Black Rum had been mentioned. Black Rum at Lunchtime? Why not. A Vegetable Samosa was well received, the banana declined. That’s no longer a Banana.

The carpets were rolled out across the floor in the time honoured fashion we have all witnessed in Turkey, Egypt, Tunisia and Maroc. Wonderful carpets, the years taken to create them appreciated by all. If only we had a mansion with laminate floors, and unlimited funds. In a group of twenty, you might expect one couple to buy a carpet.
Something happened
What would have been described as a – Fireside Rug – in bygone days was announced as affordable, but still there’s getting it home. They knew what they were doing. The rug was folded into little more than an – LP – sized bundle then put in a cloth carrier, hand luggage! Better still, having travelled to India with a half-full bag, Hector knew this would fit, sorted. Somehow Marg declared this to be a Birthday Present. Just what I always wanted. About half of The Group bought a carpet, one couple a serious one.
They weren’t finished
Another room housed the Textiles. Whilst Marg studied various uninteresting items, Hector spotted – The Indian Shirt.

The one I purchased in Sri Lanka no longer fits. Off the shelf? No chance. Made to measure. We shall deliver it to your hotel at 9pm this evening. This was a Birthday Present.

The City Palace

We had seen the wonder that is the Amber Fort, we had been Shopping, we had been plied with alcohol, another Temple? It became apparent just how compact the sights of Jaipur are. A – Snake Charmer – was encountered at the entrance to the City Palace, Rs 100.
Impressive as the City Palace may be, after the Amber Fort was maybe one too many today. The temperature was now 39°C, we were spending an increasing amount of time meeting Bhupi – in the shade. The City Palace also houses the Maharaja Sawai Man Singh II Museum, but Marg and Hector have done a Museum this year in Athena. There’s two of them?

Jantar Mantar Observatory
We needed something completely different, this was it. We have all seen – Sundials – but not on this scale. Before the Digital Age were analogue instruments, the larger the instrument the greater the degree of accuracy. We had a – Special Guide – ‘to explain how’ the clocks and calendars worked. A cold drink, at for once a realistic price – Everyone back on the Bus.

Back at the Shahpura House, Marg took the Opperchancity to have a swim in the small pool. Hector considered the pool to be too small to get wet in. A rare chance to get some Blogging done.

A Big Bier
Tonight we were driven a few blocks to a Family Home where we given an Indian Cookery Demonstration. Hector, sitting beside Simon and Gail from Leeds, was one of the – Fortunate Five – to be offered a Bier. A red tin of Kingfisher, 500ml too! It was only half chilled, still.
*

Super Strong (Kingfisher, India) is an 8% Lager. This is a serious Bier, it went down far too easily for a Bier of this strength. Posting a photo online led Mr. Snax to come back with a suggestion, I should look for Kingfisher Blue.

Dinner was a Buffet following the Cookery Demonstration. My Indian Shirt arrived at 21.00! Driven back to the Hotel, we were let loose. Adrian had been successful in finding an affordable source of Cold Bier last evening. Adrian led Allan, Allison, Hector, Marg and now Alex and Maria to the rooftop of a nearby hotel.

The RDB Palace is a much more modest establishment than where we are residing. Last night, Adrian had apparently asked someone at the Wine Shop where he could get a Cold Bier, and was shown here. A good tactic. Behold, 660ml Bottles of the Kingfisher Super Strong. Mein Host had to go out for more. Marg and Maria kept to Soft Drinks, Allison ordered Sprite such that a Shandy could be created. The Chaps were sharing, still not a – Swally. The Cargo arrived, this is better. The price? Rs 150, a half to a third of what we have been paying in Hotels, but twice the volume.
Good night.

Food, Rum and Bier today:

Shahpura House – D 257 Devi Marg, Bani Park, Jaipur, Rajahstan, 302016, India

Shree Carpet & Textile Mahal – Zorowar Amber, Jorowar Singh Gate, Amer Rd., Brahmpuri, Jaipur, Rajahstan, 302002, India

An Unknown House – Sawai Jai Singh Highway, Bani Park, Jaipur, Rajahstan, India

RDB Palace – 4 Kabir Marg, Subash Nagar, Sen Colony, Bani Park, Jaipur, Rajahstan, 302016, India

India Trip 2016 – Day 5, Jaipur – Disclocated Day: Another Temple, Another Bier

Posted in Jaipur, Rajahstan | 1 Comment

Bier-Traveller

Poznan Day 2 – The Lone Supper

Steven Wilson is in Poznan today, so is Hector.

Wroclaw – Day 2 – A City Explored

Polska – The Steven Wilson Week – Day #1 in Wroclaw

Agra – New Delhi, The End is Nigh

Agra, Uttar Pradesh – The Taja Mahal, Agra Fort + I’timad-ud-Daulah

Agra, Uttar Pradesh – via Fatehpur Sikri and Sikandra

Jaipur-Bharatpur – The Train to Bharatpur, for Breakfast-Heute #3

Day 5, Jaipur – Disclocated Day: Another Temple, Another Bier

Jaipur, Rajahstan – A Wonderful Day: A Fort, A Carpet, a Bier

Search here for Bier, Brewery, Pub, Town, City

Locations visited in the Blog entries

Archives

Recent Posts

Recent Comments

Meta