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Agra, Uttar Pradesh – The Taja Mahal, Agra Fort + I’timad-ud-Daulah

Posted on April 2, 2016 by Hector

By my reckoning, sunrise was after 06.00 in Agra today. This meant an even earlier start than normal to be at the Taj Mahal, presumably for the good light, though late afternoon in my humble opinion can be warmer and create better shadows. Perhaps because of the sheer whiteness of the Palace it is better seen in the pale colour, singular, of dawn.
The Gateway Hotel is only a couple of kilometres from the Taj Mahal, yet we were a half hour in our Coach, and then we still weren’t there. As at Fatehpur Sikri, we had to board a Bus to take us the last kilometre. An Electric Bus it may be thus reducing pollution immediately around the Complex, or just another racket to have people pay more. Yesterday the Entry Price took a significant hike. Is this to pay for the cleaning? Three of four Minarets covered in scaffolding, when was this planned. When did the Tour Company know of this? Should they have told us at the time of booking? Would anybody have chosen to undertake The Golden Triangle this year had they known in advance? Still, we were here.
The regulations about what cannot be taken on site were rigorous. For once we went through a metal scanner where they took it seriously. We were told – no bags – for those arriving by independent means, this is impossible. The Ladies Queue took longer.
As is the Architectural style, there was an impressive Portal to the compound before one finally gets the first glimpse of this most famous of buildings.

There was a crowd
Bhupi had to do his bit, telling us how Shah Jihan had the place built as a Memorial and Burial Place for his favourite wife, Mumtaz. Built totally in White Marble, his plan was to have a Black Marble version built across the Yamuna River with a bridge connecting the two sites. This never came to be, Shah Jihan lies beside his wife, the only part of the construction which is asymmetrical.
Zoom lenses come in handy, they can remove the mass of people if one is elevated. The most famous viewing platform is halfway along the garden approach to the Palace itself. Professional Photographers hog the #1 Bench for their customers. One could wait, or come back later in the day. Still, we had our own Diana with us, she did not require a Bench.
The water features were not active, again shoddy for the once in a lifetime visitor. There was a Kingfisher, the flying variety, this would make Marg’s day. With shoe coverings in place, we entered the Taj Mahal itself, polishing the floors as we progressed.
No photos were permitted in the Burial Chamber, not that this is the real one. In all of the Mausoleums visited, the Grave one sees is a replica of the real one underneath and out of sight.
I have marvelled previously about the symmetry of the Taj Mahal, from whatever angle you look at it, the same view maintains. The alcoves are magnificent in their decoration. As the sun became higher so these showed their splendour. The view back to the Gateway also improved, as did the awareness of the two remaining Gates. Everything is done in – Fours – in Moghul Architecture. Just the three Minarets in scaffolding then. We had to accept it, close up it was less of an issue, however, one’s photos will not be as good as those who subsequently visit.

The two youngest members of The Group, Manisha and Karina, had dressed up for a special Photo-shoot. Tina, too. It was Marg who recorded this sequence.

As the sun became higher still, the shadows made the Taj Mahal appear even more outstanding. So why Dawn, one or two hours after may be better? On the east side, the Taj Mahal eventually started to reflect the sunlight. Straining to avoid fencing, a Chap offered to let us through for a small consideration. Why he was permitted to stand here and authorise this is part of the petty corruption Hector deplores. No thank you.

Breakfast
We were back at the Gateway Hotel, as per yesterday, it was Curry o’clock. Having resisted the Interesting Part of the Hotel Buffet Breakfasts, just in case, the digestive system was feeling confident. As ever, Curry-Heute.com fills in the details.
With the temperature rising, 40°C is The Hector Comfort Zone, it was back out into our air-conditioned Bus with Raj handing out chilled bottles of water. For the first three days the water was, as it came, isn’t it wonderful when Indians realise that fridges are not instant coolers?

Agra Fort
Could anything compete with Amber Fort? Twenty four hours in Agra and one is becoming used to the layout. The Bridge across the Yamuna has to be approached by a roundabout route. We passed the Lady Dobie Wallahs spreading the washing on the river banks. One can move from Luxury to the opposite end of the spectrum in minutes, yet still, as I taught for thirty four years: in societies where there are no Freebies, people have to work.

Thoughts go back to the Egyptian Farmers who gave up in favour of opening yet another Trinket Shop in the Souq. The same has happened here, mechanisation has driven people off the land (ouch!). How many customers per day when everyone sells the same old rubbish? One has to admire the Chaps driving the overloaded Rickshaws or whatever means of transport are within their budget.

Approaching High Noon, Agra Fort was looking popular. If everyone does the Taj Mahal at daybreak, then this is next – must do. The Moat was impressive, the Entrance Portal once again gave no clue as to what lay behind. Bhupi did his bit, possibly the least portable Bath on The Planet was marveled at. What has changed, to be so indulged, the haves and have less, nothing.
Sandstone gave way to Marble. The House of The Favoured Wife, her Rival, Jahangir, the Wicked Son who poisoned his Father, The Mother in cahoots. The stories are told, what remains is Architecture, the realisation that so few rooms have walls until one reaches – The Private Places. Doors are locked, part of the Fort remains off-limits to Tourists, a Mosque. As with Fatehpur Sikri, this is a substantial part of the complex. This did not rival Amber Fort, however, there was more to it than the Taj Mahal, the unexpected, what is behind the next Portal?

Hector was finally asked to pose with a Local, a Chap, later entire Families, was it the Red T-shirt? Prog Rules – they thought they recognised the Logo, tee-hee.

We had the afternoon free. There was an optional excursion later today, we all signed up, that is how our Group is. What to do?
I enquired as to how warm the Water was in t’Pool yesterday, Marg suggested it was within acceptable parameters. In we go, Hector swimming #2. Marg has plans for me when I get home.

There was a Buffet Dinner at the hotel this evening, our Final Buffet, a Late Lunch was mooted. We braved the Outside, retracing the steps of last evening. Pizza anyone? We had the choice of Dominoes or Pizza Hut, we chose the latter. Pizza, Italian Cuisine, or is it? Never did The Hector think that Pizza Hut would appear on Curry-Heute. It simply had to.

I’timad-ud-Daulah

No wonder they call this – The Baby Taj – I’timad-ud-Daulah – does not exactly roll of the tongue, plus having seen a few Indian Mausoleums on this Trip, they are all heavily influenced architecturally by what has come before. I blame – The Planners.

Security was less evident at this site, one could take all the photos one desired. Sadly graffiti adorned one section which was in juxtaposition to the fact that we were wearing our shoe coverings retained from the Taj Mahal this morning.

Mother Taj
This extra outing concluded with a return to the Taj Mahal, well almost. We found ourselves in the Park across the Yamuna River, the site where the Black Taj was originally planned by Shah Jihan for his own Tomb. We had been sold on seeing the Taj Mahal at Sunset. We arrived around 17.30 a full hour before the Replacement Samsung revealed the sun would set.
From our vantage point we could see the land along the riverbank adjacent to the Taj Mahal. There are some interesting looking Fortifications which have fallen into disrepair. Maybe Agra does not need further Tourist Attractions at this locus.
Our Group ended up sitting on the grass waiting for the setting sun to create perfect light and long shadows, not this evening. There was a haze on the horizon, nothing happened. We departed five minutes before sunset. What did we miss?

Staying in, in Agra
Tonight, The Final Buffet and despite the Lamb, a disappointment. Those who had gone to find Bier last night were not for going out there again. About half of us assembled informally in the Bar area. A couple of ripoff Kingfishers before calling it a day. We have had two successive early rises, tomorrow we return to New Delhi.

The hotel and restaurant visited today:

Gateway Hotel – Fatehabad Rd, Tajganj, Agra, Uttar Pradesh 282001, India

Pizza Hut – 8, Handicraft Nagar, Fatehabad Rd, Tajganj, Agra, Uttar Pradesh 282001, India

India Trip 2016 – Day 8 – Agra – New Delhi – The End is Nigh

Posted in Agra, Uttar Pradesh | 2 Comments

Agra, Uttar Pradesh – via Fatehpur Sikri and Sikandra

Posted on April 1, 2016 by Hector

April 1st continued

Today we arrive in Agra, tomorrow we are going to see the Taj Mahal. How many Palaces, Tombs and Forts have we visited by this, Day 6? Fatepur Sikri is certainly a destination that one may never have heard of, though on the road from Jaipur to Agra it fits well into The Golden Triangle.
The signage in the car park amused as ever. The Indians may pride themselves on the perfection of their English, the sign writers may be in on the joke.

As we alighted, a tall Tower-like construction appeared to be our objective. Bhupi, our guide, led us in the other direction. Maybes later.
We have come to know that the exterior of Indian Architecture is all a Facade (sorry), it is what lies beyond the first Gate that is the focal point of any visit. However, we have become used to Ourselves being an attraction too.

Fatehpur Sikri

The best of Bhupi’s – Explanations – today was the bed of Akbar The Great. He was only four foot eighth, allegedly. His bedroom had water traps, not to drown any would-be assassins, but so that they might make a noise as they approached. Akbar’s Bed was higher off the ground than he could see, one has to wonder about the height of his Concubine’s sleeping places.

The Buildings as ever make one marvel as progression is made through the complex. Some of the stone carvings were very Harry Potter-like, reminiscent of the moving stairways in the first movie.

What was the Big Tower on the other side of the car park? An active Mosque, perhaps.

The Replacement Samsung confirmed we were on the outskirts of Agra, time to stop, again. It has been a long day.

Sikandra
This is the burial place of Akbar The Great, so today we have been to his Playground Palace, now pay homage. One might think that the Moghul Architecture is starting to look the same… they were more blatant in – their inspirations – than Led Zeppelin (allegedly).

Ten years from now, Marg will recall Sikandra more than any sight visited on this Tour to date. The Wildlife. The Bambi-variants, the Parakeets, and the Chipmunks playing Possum. This made her day.

Finally, it was time to check-in at the Gateway Hotel. We have travelled by train, had three Breakfasts, and visited all of the above. Priority #1 for Marg was a swim, Hector had a Restaurant Curry in mind. Others did the necessaries and were straight out for a Wine/Bier.
The Travel Company had said we would have Taj Mahal View – rooms. Rosemary, our UK Guide, told us not to be too hopeful. Would expect to see a bit. On our fourth floor room, Marg pulled back the curtain, we are not in Torquay.

Marg had her swim. Despite the temperature rising every day, the thought ofexternally applied Cold Water still did not appeal to The Hector. 41°C is still in my comfort zone as long as it is a Dry Heat, and there is the promise of Cold Bier after sunset. If only swimming pool water was as warm as Kibbutz Ashdot Ya’akov (Me’uchad). Time to get a bit of Blogging done.

Agra Outside
Suitably attired, we left the safety of the Gateway Hotel. Bhupi had put it to us that if the Taj Mahal was not in Agra, then nobody would come to this city. He warned us about the usual harassment from Market Sellers, but described an anticipated Swarm of people wishing to exploit. No eye contact – was his recommended tactic. Nice.

As ever, the Security at the Hotel Gate bade us farewell. For the first time on this trip our Hotel was right in the heart of the action, one hundred metres from a busy junction. Hector had managed to find useful information from – Other Sources – we had approached the Gateway Hotel along the road of Coffee Houses and Restaurants, I had chosen Spice Hut to be the choice. There was a Small Problem.
The Cash Reserves had taken a hammering in Jaipur. The plan was to visit an ATM near our Hotel last night, we had not. Google Maps showed one machine to the right of our Hotel, more to the left, where The Action was.
It was Marg’s turn to withdraw Cash. Had she told her bank she was coming to India? No. First one machine, then the next, nothing. The machines take your card, think about it, ask you for your PIN, take an age, then do nothing. One cannot move on, will the Cash come? Armed Guards were on duty at the kiosks containing the ATMs. The sun had set, today was the most Humid day of our Trip. Frustration? Some Locals managed withdrawals, some did not. It is a Saturday, have all the machines been hammered since Friday?
As we marched further, Marg was offered – Help – she declined, politely That was it, this Chap followed us for ten minutes, back to junction, along the other road, he knew what we wanted, Aye Right. We stopped, he stopped. He’s gone. He’s back. For the first time, possibly this century, Mr. Taylor raised his voice – GO AWAY! He didn’t, but gave in two minutes later. Back to the Hotel.

Hector Elizondo
The new plan was to try and take out Cash from a pre-paid credit card. We had past a Bureau, but thought we should try the Hotel first. Doris on Reception knew nothing. The Maitre d’ was summoned, he was a Hector! I shall give you my car – was his opening remark. I heard this as – I shall give you my card. This made no sense. Another Chap was summoned, The Driver, we were led to a Big F-O Vehicle, he had been instructed to take us to an ATM that worked. I knew where the next ones were thanks to Mr. Google, a greater distance than we were prepared to walk.
As I alighted at the first machine, the Guard said something in Hindi to The Driver. Back to the car. And so it went on. Finally a Kiosk with two machines. The first was empty. The second had Cash, would it give us any? A Local stepped in, he had everyone give us space, the Reverse Ritual was commenced. Rupees! Hundreds of them! We can eat! We did.

It was Hotel ripoff priced Kingfisher thereafter.

Tomorrow, we have to be up even earlier than today to be at the Taj Mahal for sunrise. Why?

The Hotel and Restaurants visited today:

Gateway Hotel

The Silk Route

Spice Hut

India Trip 2016 – Day 7 – Agra, Uttar Pradesh – The Taja Mahal, Agra Fort + I’timad-ud-Daulah

Jaipur-Bharatpur – The Train to Bharatpur, for Breakfast-Heute #3

Posted on April 1, 2016 by Hector

One can only imagine what time the Wake Up call was to catch the 07.05 Shatabadi Express (I kid you not) to Bharatpur. We were too early for Breakfast and so were issued the Classic Indian Hotel – Breakfast Box. One supposes the hotel had to provide this since we were B&B. Rosemary, our UK Guide, had let slip that we we would be having Breakfast on The Train too – Yay! At Bharatpur our Coach would be waiting to transport us to the Laxmi Vilas Palace, for Breakfast-Heute #3!
Bus, Jeep, Camel-cart, Rickshaw, Tuk-Tuk, the Tour Company are making sure we experience all forms of travel in India, no Boats, again – Yay!

Hector is not a Trainspotter, however, I had to take a photo of my first ever Indian ALCO, I know about these things. Our Loco was also Diesel, and emitted heavenly clouds of muck every time we took off. The labeling on the ancillary coaches caused amusement. Do the Indians know something we don’t?

My allocated seat on the train was beside Simon from Leeds–Bradford. The Trusty Panasonic still had photos of my recent Trip to that part of Yorkshire. I had all the proof that I knew the Best of Leeds and Bradford Pubs. We’ll meet again….

The Indian State Railways Breakfast has to be described in the sister Website as it is Indian Food.

Each Carriage has its own Attendants, Bottled Water was issued early on, then Hot Water and a tea bag, Hector wished coffee…. Hector does not drink Tea outside of Scotland.

In a former life I would have been taking loadsa’ photos from the train. By Coach, one travels along Roads and Highways, Ribbon Development follows, finally, to see the Countryside proper: The Hamlet, The Indian Village. Today we saw Indian Agriculture, the small fields separated by Bunds, the Brickworks, the associated Chimneys, Dung Patties stacked for fuel. Poverty? The two intermediate stops felt like being at that Geographical nonsensity, – The Middle of Nowhere. The Replacement Samsung showed me exactly where I was, India.

Jaipur to Bharatpur was a bit over two hours. Simon and Hector chatted. Our Guides were keen to have us waiting to alight minutes before we reached the station, the train will stop for only two minutes. Where are we, Japan?
Navendra and Raj had welcoming smiles, our luggage was aboard already. This is how to travel.

Bhupi, our Guide, is in the midst of opening a Luxury Hotel. We have got wind of the fact that he does four Tours a year, for reasons yet to be established. Hector Holmes will get to the bottom of this. Anyway, the Laxmi Vilas Palace was verging on The Ridiculous. Even the humblest of establishments call themselves – Palace, this was. Where were the Guests?

A large table was set for The Group, Breakfast-Heute #3.

Everyone back on the bus!

From Bharatpur to Agra was, in theory, less than a couple of hours, freedom? Apparently we were not due to check-in at the Gateway Hotel until 16.00, I overheard Sikandra, on the outskirts of Agra, a change in T’intinerary (sic). Fatehpur Sikri was the next scheduled stop.

India Trip 2016 – Day 6 – Agra, Uttar Pradesh – via Fatehpur Sikri and Sikandra

Posted in Bharatpur, Rajahstan, Jaipur, Rajahstan | 1 Comment

Day 5, Jaipur – Disclocated Day: Another Temple, Another Bier

Posted on March 31, 2016 by Hector

Breakfast is becoming a social event. Gone are the days of each couple/trio sitting at their own tables. We now sit as a Group wherever we go. Everyone knows everyone else, it has taken time but we have gelled amazingly despite the age range of 18 – 80. For Hector, Breakfast is still Fruit and Eggs. There is no sign of anyone suffering, all is well.

Jaipur Birla Temple Bier-Traveller (1) The Birla Mandir Temple was the first destination in our second day in Jaipur. Nothing, except possibly the Taj Mahal, is going to beat yesterday and the Amber Fort. The Birla Mandir was superficially quite a modest building, and very white. On the hill above was the Moti Dungri Fort which was drawing my attention. Why are we not going up to the Fort?
Built in 1998, this is the most modern building we are likely to visit. Bhupi, our guide, informed us that icons from all religions are represented on the exterior. Perhaps, but not mine. Marg became interested in a group of Ladies in the sumptuous gardens. Were they taking flowers or planting them? A Jaipur Hen Night.

Outside the south side of the Old City, in the largest open area seen in Jaipur, lies the Albert Hall. The building itself initially was the attraction rather than the contents. However, having spent an hour inside there was enough to grab one’s attention. A photo of the largest – Bass – stringed instrument I have ever seen, minus the strings, was sent immediately to John Jowitt (Jadis, IQ, Arena). John even replied – not yet – when I suggested he had never played anything this big. The Egyptian Room brought back memories of Hector and Marg’s best ever holiday. Why do I no longer have a friend who works for Kuoni? Some of the models amused us both given the duplication of the photos taken. I took the Oppperchancity of checking out – The Facilities.

Yesterday we bought a carpet at a showroom, today Lunch was at another venue where spending our hard earned cash was a possibility. A Jewellery Store?

No chance. The Black Rum was declined, the Samosa today had Meat, Excellent, Spicy too.
We watched Chaps polishing stones then were taken into the Shop. Some did buy, the Ladies studied what was on offer, one by one the Chaps joined me at the settees in the middle of the room. We’ve had enough of this, time for some fun.

The Itinerary had suggested an optional Walking Tour of the Bazaar et al in the Walled City. Bhupi suggested instead we take a Rickshaw Ride. We were all up for this. The problem as ever, you cannot take your own photo, so thanks to Marie and Alex for sending the photo of Marg and Hector so quickly.

I had only spotted one Rickshaw with a Chap running on foot. In Jaipur the Rickshaws were all bicycles. Some of the Chaps who would do the work were in advanced years, we had a Young Chap. The gradients did not appear much, however, all the Drivers alighted whenever there was a slope.

Along the mains streets of the Old City, past the Hawa Mahal again, down the side lanes, past the cows, we were quite a convoy. Some lowered the sun canopy, we kept our’s in position, it was Hot today. A bottle of water was shared with Our Chap, he was grateful.

Here is the first chance to see the Group Members close up, as ever if anyone does not want their photo on this Website, tell me. Disaster for Hector! Memory Card Full. Why had I brought only one camera today?

At the end of the Ride we escaped! Time to ourselves, in daylight. Marg wanted to buy presents for her Sisters, Hector needed Quality Curry. With Buffet #4 due this evening, it was decided to eat first. As ever, the detail of the Excellent Curry at Niros Restaurant is in the usual place.
Trousers, Pantaloons, is what The Sisters are having. Bhupi advised that the shops had fixed prices, we could haggle a bit, but the price quoted would be – the price. We made the day for the shop we chose. A Cooperative, the Chaps were Students, returning to their studies soon and they needed cash for their books. No credit cards were accepted, Marg spent her Rupees, her Sterling, my Euros. What are the chances that the Sisters will wear these? Sadly, no photos.

Tuk-Tuk

We had to make our own way back to Shahpura House. On any other holiday we would have walked, a couple of kilometres, for us a stroll. This is India, we would have been harassed the whole way back. Ironically, we had to actually go and find a Tuk-Tuk stand. Rs 120 was the agreed fair. Bhupi had given us our address in Hindi, the Driver knew exactly where Devi Marg is in Bani Park. Sri Lanka was the last time we used a Tuk-Tuk. In Galle we ended up with our Own Chap who took us to the Hinterland, his Village. Then we had the time, not on this Trip.

Marg went for a Dip, Hector did some Blogging. It is going to take an age to Blog this Trip.

The Indian Night
Once again we assembled for a Buffet Dinner, this time at the Rooftop Restaurant at Shahpura House where Musicians and Dancers would entertain. A Glass of Wine was included, my first in India, not too shabby. Some went on to order the Bottle, to their sorrow. When they were later asked for in excess of £30.00 per Bottle they knew they had been had.

Hector’s long distance vision spotted a familiar label in the fridge. Stella Artois. So far, my only non-Indian Bier has been Belgian. A change from Kingfisher.
Brian had seen me use the Replacement Samsung on the Bus. Hector likes to know where he is, and where he is headed. Those lovely people at Vodafone only take £5.00 per day to Roam. I helped Brian set up the World Traveller on his phone, same network. Apparently I am a – Clever Chap.
Buffet #4 impressed, however, I did not do it justice, the Outstanding Fish Curry at Niros was still being digested.

Bier o’Clock
The 20-20 Cricket has reached the semi-finals, India were playing again this evening. Adrian had found another Source of Bier, even better he claimed than last night’s RDB Palace.
A couple of blocks away in our Bani Park Compound lies the Shakuntalam Bar & Restaurant. Why did we not find this two nights ago? Why did our Guides not know of this place?

The Group of Revellers included Adrian, Karen and Karina (wife and daughter), Alex, and Marie, Gail and Simon, Allison and Allan, Gio and Avril, Hector and Marg, plus Bhupi. A below ground venue, the place was stowed. The Locals were excited, India had a chance. We squeezed ourselves in. Fitting The Fourteen was not simple, some Locals moved to accommodate us.
Smoking!

Bhupi had – explained to us – how India came to ban smoking in all public places. Being fined for smoking on the street has basically made the disgusting habit disappear. To date, I had seen a handful of people smoking in all the thousands we have encountered. Ashtrays were on the table, four people near us were smoking. Fortunately the combination of fans and aircon kept the air clean.
The Menu

An impressive array of Curry Dishes were on offer. We were here for the Bier. The Prices were right. 650ml Bottles of Kingfisher Blue! It had to be ordered. A 6.0% Lager, this Bier has more body than the Super Strong at 8.0%. At last, a Swally. Here I am in Jaipur and no sign of this IPA, or any other.
Suffice to say, the Group had bonded even more by the time we departed. Bhupi watched, he was on duty.
India lost the Cricket, the place emptied. A Great Night, tomorrow we have an early train to catch. Where next?

The Hotel and Restaurants visited today:

Shahpura House Hotel – Devi Marg, Bani Park, Jaipur, India

Niros Restaurant – Shop N.80, Mirza Ismail Road, Jaipur, Rajasthan, India

Shakuntalam Bar & Restaurant – D157, Kabir Marg, Bani Park, Jaipur

India Trip 2016 – Day 6 – Jaipur-Bharatpur – The Train to Bharatpur, for Breakfast-Heute #3

Posted in Jaipur, Rajahstan | 2 Comments

Jaipur, Rajahstan – A Wonderful Day: A Fort, A Carpet, a Bier

Posted on March 30, 2016 by Hector

Arriving in Jaipur mid-afternoon yesterday, our Group of Intrepid Travellers caught a first glimpse of the Splendour that is – The Pink City. Terra Cotta is more accurate.
Having failed to discover any out-of-hotel Hostelry, it was back to the Shahpura House Hotel for a Bier, but not before Hector and Marg went Vegetarian at the surprisingly good Chit Chat Restaurant.

The Bar was not staffed, to sit in this room would have been naff, there is a pool-side garden where some had chosen to eat their evening meal. Erdinger Weizen was available vom Fass, however the price was laughable, even more-so when the Chap held up the glass. Hoegarden it was, tastier and hopefully not such a rip-off. Allan and Allison joined us after they had dined. An early night was called for after our rather lengthy journey from New Delhi via Patan.

Amber Fort
Stunning! The 11km drive from Jaipur to Amer did not take long. Jaipur is much smaller than New Delhi thus traffic is less hectic. Still, every driver has to – Toot-Toot – at every Opperchancity. We stopped off at Man Sagar, the Jaipur Lake, to pick up three of The Company who had left at dawn to take a Balloon Ride. Last night we had speculated who – The Three – were. We were stunned when Brian and Chris , a couple in their 80’s, boarded the Bus. Brian, like Hector, has a fear of heights. They were amused that the third Balloonist, Avril, had to pay extra for insurance, the octogenarians were too old to be insured!

As we reached the edge the town of Amer, the Bus was parked at the edge of the Maota Lake. Amber Fort dates back to the sixteenth century, not content with one hilltop fort, there appeared to be fortifications everywhere. This was going to be a visit of many photos.
Some ascend directly to the courtyard of the Amber Fort by Elephant. Rosemary, our

British Guide explained that due to insurance, we would be driven by a fleet of Jeeps. Yesterday Camel-pulled carts, today Jeeps, what next?

One is learning that as with Egyptian Temples, one enters through an elaborate gateway to a courtyard, one then progresses through another gateway to yet another courtyard, and so on. The architecture speaks for itself.

The highest areas afford views of the town of Amer, the surrounding hills with both fortifications and a wall which inevitably makes one think of China. Amber Fort, the highlight of The Trip. As we left the Amber Fort we encountered the largest of Cooking Pots, imagine the Curry-Heute.
We stopped once again at Man Sagar this time to take photos of Jah Mahal, – The Floating Palace. So, we were not taking the boat out then? We have not been in a boat. We would only ever see the Hawa Mahal in passing also. A return trip to Jaipur required?

Which stop off cannot be avoided on a tour?

Shree Carpet & Textile Mahal
*

Lunch today was at a Carpet and Textile Workshop. Before going indoors, we were shown the skills of dye printing, Tina volunteered to have a go. We marvelled at the Chaps and Chapattisworking away weaving carpets, then we were taken inside.

Black Rum had been mentioned. Black Rum at Lunchtime? Why not. A Vegetable Samosa was well received, the banana declined. That’s no longer a Banana.

The carpets were rolled out across the floor in the time honoured fashion we have all witnessed in Turkey, Egypt, Tunisia and Maroc. Wonderful carpets, the years taken to create them appreciated by all. If only we had a mansion with laminate floors, and unlimited funds. In a group of twenty, you might expect one couple to buy a carpet.
Something happened
What would have been described as a – Fireside Rug – in bygone days was announced as affordable, but still there’s getting it home. They knew what they were doing. The rug was folded into little more than an – LP – sized bundle then put in a cloth carrier, hand luggage! Better still, having travelled to India with a half-full bag, Hector knew this would fit, sorted. Somehow Marg declared this to be a Birthday Present. Just what I always wanted. About half of The Group bought a carpet, one couple a serious one.
They weren’t finished
Another room housed the Textiles. Whilst Marg studied various uninteresting items, Hector spotted – The Indian Shirt.

The one I purchased in Sri Lanka no longer fits. Off the shelf? No chance. Made to measure. We shall deliver it to your hotel at 9pm this evening. This was a Birthday Present.

The City Palace

We had seen the wonder that is the Amber Fort, we had been Shopping, we had been plied with alcohol, another Temple? It became apparent just how compact the sights of Jaipur are. A – Snake Charmer – was encountered at the entrance to the City Palace, Rs 100.
Impressive as the City Palace may be, after the Amber Fort was maybe one too many today. The temperature was now 39°C, we were spending an increasing amount of time meeting Bhupi – in the shade. The City Palace also houses the Maharaja Sawai Man Singh II Museum, but Marg and Hector have done a Museum this year in Athena. There’s two of them?

Jantar Mantar Observatory
We needed something completely different, this was it. We have all seen – Sundials – but not on this scale. Before the Digital Age were analogue instruments, the larger the instrument the greater the degree of accuracy. We had a – Special Guide – ‘to explain how’ the clocks and calendars worked. A cold drink, at for once a realistic price – Everyone back on the Bus.

Back at the Shahpura House, Marg took the Opperchancity to have a swim in the small pool. Hector considered the pool to be too small to get wet in. A rare chance to get some Blogging done.

A Big Bier
Tonight we were driven a few blocks to a Family Home where we given an Indian Cookery Demonstration. Hector, sitting beside Simon and Gail from Leeds, was one of the – Fortunate Five – to be offered a Bier. A red tin of Kingfisher, 500ml too! It was only half chilled, still.
*

Super Strong (Kingfisher, India) is an 8% Lager. This is a serious Bier, it went down far too easily for a Bier of this strength. Posting a photo online led Mr. Snax to come back with a suggestion, I should look for Kingfisher Blue.

Dinner was a Buffet following the Cookery Demonstration. My Indian Shirt arrived at 21.00! Driven back to the Hotel, we were let loose. Adrian had been successful in finding an affordable source of Cold Bier last evening. Adrian led Allan, Allison, Hector, Marg and now Alex and Maria to the rooftop of a nearby hotel.

The RDB Palace is a much more modest establishment than where we are residing. Last night, Adrian had apparently asked someone at the Wine Shop where he could get a Cold Bier, and was shown here. A good tactic. Behold, 660ml Bottles of the Kingfisher Super Strong. Mein Host had to go out for more. Marg and Maria kept to Soft Drinks, Allison ordered Sprite such that a Shandy could be created. The Chaps were sharing, still not a – Swally. The Cargo arrived, this is better. The price? Rs 150, a half to a third of what we have been paying in Hotels, but twice the volume.
Good night.

Food, Rum and Bier today:

Shahpura House – D 257 Devi Marg, Bani Park, Jaipur, Rajahstan, 302016, India

Shree Carpet & Textile Mahal – Zorowar Amber, Jorowar Singh Gate, Amer Rd., Brahmpuri, Jaipur, Rajahstan, 302002, India

An Unknown House – Sawai Jai Singh Highway, Bani Park, Jaipur, Rajahstan, India

RDB Palace – 4 Kabir Marg, Subash Nagar, Sen Colony, Bani Park, Jaipur, Rajahstan, 302016, India

India Trip 2016 – Day 5, Jaipur – Disclocated Day: Another Temple, Another Bier

Posted in Jaipur, Rajahstan | 1 Comment

Day 3 – The Road to Jaipur, via Patan

Posted on March 29, 2016 by Hector

Our Company Guide had mentioned more than once that the journey from New Delhi to Jaipur would take some seven hours. This involved a two hour detour, to reach our Lunch Stop at Patan, spurious. Let’s hope it’s worth it – passed through Hector’s mind.
Leaving the Maidens Hotel in the north of New Delhi, it took over an hour to exit the city to the south-west, crossing the State Border into Haryana at Gurgaon. As ever, the Rush Hour saw nobody going anywhere quick. Somehow the traffic keeps moving, except when it’s at a standstill.

At the border, three things happened. Firstly Raj, the Driver’s Assistant, had to cross a seven lane highway to pay the local road tax. Next, he was permitted to unravel the curtains which had been wrapped around the fans. Curtains are not permitted in vehicles in New Delhi. Finally we saw our first roaming cows, again New Delhi does not tolerate this.

Bhupi, our Local Guide, – explained how – his favourite expression, Gurgaon was but fields twenty years ago. The skyscrapers house the offices of Multinationals. It is from here that those annoying phone-calls originate. Ironically, Vodafone have been trying to contact me from their Rotherham base for the last couple of days. I cannot wait to tell them I’m in India.

Our exit road from the highway towards Patan meant our Driver had to block the entire road to make a U-turn. Hairy, then we encountered flock after herd of animals. Our detour would take longer.
The Replacement Samsung was able to keep Hector in touch of where he was. Although 4G is advertised everywhere, t’Internet was always slow, but did exist even in such a remote location as we currently found ourselves. Arriving at Patan we had to alight from the Bus. For reasons known to our Tour Company, we reached the Patan Mahal by Camel-pulled Carts, though it was the School Bus which took us back to our own Coach.

We were regarded as Celebrities as our Camel Train was paraded through the streets. The youngest children were already on the streets waving. The School Bus dropped off its load, older children joined the fun. Bhupi conjured up a Jeep.

Photos galore were taken, of course one cannot see the Cart on which one is travelling, by now taking photos of our Fellow Travellers was becoming comfortable.

After the sanitised view of India one sees mostly in New Dehli, this was Indian Life approaching its most basic, electricity was not a problem, one could spend time wondering about the plumbing. Day 3 and nobody has succumbed.

Lunch at the Patan Mahal was Excellent. As ever, the detail is related elsewhere.
Patan has hills, New Delhi is on a flat plain, as we approached Jaipur the relief remained mountainous. Jaipur would be a different experience. Three nights at the Shahpura House Hotel awaited.

Narendra, our Driver

India Trip 2016 – Day 4 – Jaipur, Rajahstan – A Wonderful Day: A Fort, A Carpet, a Bier

Posted in Patan, Rajahstan | 1 Comment

Hector’s India Trip – A Day in New Delhi

Posted on March 28, 2016 by Hector

The wake up call at 07.00 confirmed our UK Guide’s comment – This is not a holiday but more of a trek. The itinerary is designed to maximise the number of possible sites/sights visited. Four major attractions awaited us today, without our private Bus, Driver – Narendra, his assistant – Raj, our Local Guide – Bhupi, and our Tour Company Guide – Rosemary, we would have taken twice, even three times as long to cover these.
Hector has decided not to have Indian Food for Breakfast until such times the stomach proves all is well. Fresh Fruit, Yoghurt and Eggs were considered safe. Salads et al that may have been washed in tap water were avoided. After contact with – anything – antibacterial hand gel was employed.

Departing from the Maidens Hotel at 08.00 we started to recognise some of the routes, past Old Delhi, the India Gate towards our first stop of the day – Qutab Minar. We knew nothing of this, to say we were impressed was an understatement, this Minaret and accompanying Ruins. To get the light we had to go beyond the equally impressive Gate. A Security Chap was happy to show us – The Perfect Spot – for photos, and was happy to take the two of us together, for a gratuity, of course.

Everyone back on the bus…

Humayun’s Tomb was next. It didn’t take much wit to appreciate the significance of this building. Based on the Islamic Architectural – Four – this was the building that inspired the Taj Mahal at Agra. By this time we were recognising our Group Members and slowly starting to ask names. This also established that we could ask folk to take Couples’ Photos.

The Government Buildings were driven past, twice, so that Photo Opperchancities were given to those sitting on each side of the Bus. We were not permitted to stop, Indian Security. The India Gate was passed again, now we were informed that this is a Memorial to the Fallen in WW1. Again, this was a drive past.

Lunch
Breakfast was a long time ago, Dinner would be a while, Hector had worked up an appetite, but what was on the agenda? Lunch stops were expected, Hector did not know that he would be presented with a choice of Restaurants, it was time for Hector’s first a la carte Indian Curry, in India. The visit to the Gulati Restaurant is covered on Curry-Heute.com.

Sikh Temples are famous throughout the world for feeding all those who turn up at the kitchen. It felt somewhat ironic that having just paid out for Lunch, we were then taken to the Bangla Sahib Gurudwara, the largest Sikh Temple in New Dehli.

We were marched past the Hawkers and taken to an anteroom to prepare our clothing. We had been advised that shorts were not permitted, everyone but Hector was wearing long trousers or skirts. Out came the Longs, in this heat. Today it was in the high 30s°C. Appropriate Headgear had to be adorned, yesterday it was Hector in a skirt, today, the Ageing Rock Star.

Feet had to be bathed on entry, the stone slabs were super hot in the sunshine. Music was being blasted loudly, as we entered the Temple we found The Source. Three Chaps were performing adjacent to the area which was the focus of prayer. There was some serious praying by people of all ages.
Gold, lots of Gold. An obscene amount of Gold adorned the walls, and no photos permitted. The Hector inside such a building comes as a surprise. I prefer the External Architecture of such constructions, the Interiors hold little attraction, I find no meaning to what takes place therein. However, as the exit was far from the entrance, one had to stay with the Group. The surrounding waters purport to have healing properties, so it goes.

As we walked towards the Dining Room and Kitchen, the scale of how many were being fed became apparent. Huge Room was four fifths full, we were invited to join the line. Anyone, Everyone is welcome to eat, the Food is given, for free. Benefactors pay for the Food. An army of women give of their time to prepare the Food, Chaps distribute it without comment or prejudice. This will be lasting memory of this Trip, and I didn’t get to sample the Daal and Chapattis on offer.
In addition to this is a queue for Food to take into the Temple, Marg must have been hungry…

What could follow this?

Another view of the India Gate and we took a side street. The Agrasen Ki Baoli Stepwell was our final stop of the day. A step well? One should read Websites like this and be better advised as to what one has signed up for.
Behind a wall, a few metres from the Bus we encountered a few steps, a step well? Then, behold! I could never have imagined this. The thought of Hector going down to the water’s edge and back up these stairs was cast aside. Marg descended, forgot to turn around for a photo, and climbed back up. She may have been concerned about the proximity of bats. That was Marg’s exercise for the day, Hector’s would be later.

A Quiet Night Inn
One of our Group, Adrian had gone exploring around the Maidens Hotel on arrival yesterday. There was a Bar, 1Up, a few hundred metres away. Half of The Group went for Bier at an affordable price as soon as we returned to the Hotel. Not Hector, he was going swimming, in t’pool.
The sun was about thirty minutes from the horizon when I jumped into the, far too cold for me, water. Marg insisted I would acclimatise. Five minutes later I was out in the warmth. As soon as the sun disappeared, indoors, a snooze.

The Curzon Room’s a la carte Menu had to be tried. We had Pasta in mind. The Maitre d’ had other ideas. As ever, Curry-Heute covers the Food.

By the time we left the Hotel for 1Up, everyone else was back. Undaunted, Hector would have his Bier, Kingfisher again. Marg had Baileys, again no ice. Why they thought that Techno-Musik was appropriate who knows.

The Itinerary for tomorrow had been put under our door, a seven hour journey to Jaipur? Time for bed.

The Hotel and Bar visited today:

Maidens Hotel

1Up

India Trip 2016 – Day 3 – The Road to Jaipur, via Patan

Posted in New Delhi | 1 Comment

Hector’s 2016 India Trip starts here

Posted on March 27, 2016 by Hector

The journey from Glasgow to New Delhi cannot be completed with one flight. Having refused to pay the rip-off fee the Travel Company wanted for the Glasgow to London Heathrow leg, little did I know that this meant Travel Insurance to cover the connecting flight was pretty much out the window. In future we stay over in the South East, or better still, avoid London airports altogether.
The Landside of Heathrow Terminal 4 is not acceptable. Two cafes to cater for all, three ATMs, only one which worked. One positive was that we were greeted by an Agent from our Travel Company and after we had checked in, we were introduced to the Lady who would be our Guide for the entire trip. Indian Visas are expensive, imagine the horror when the Jet Airways person checking us in found errors in both Visas. Whatever was wrong, she was able to fix online, just as well.
When an eight and a half hour flight is delayed by an hour, one just has to grin and bear it. If the situation is worse on the return, we miss our connecting flight, no come back. At least the In-flight Movies kept The Hector amused, the In-flight Meal did even more. Curry on a ‘plane, a first.
On arrival at New Delhi’s Indira Gandhi Airport, one cannot help but be impressed, it is Big and Shiny, officially The World’s #1. The Chaps on the ‘plane had given us all a Customs Declaration Form to complete before Landing, but not a Landing Card. Go to the back of the queue. Finally,the Visas were checked all was well, but –
What do you think of our airport?
Wonderful, way better than Heathrow Terminal 4.
And so we were in, almost, collect the bags, meet Rep Rosemary, try and find an ATM… no chance before clearing customs, then no time. We arrived at the Maidens Hotel ninety odd minutes later, having been driven from the south-west of New Delhi, past Delhi to places north. Time to check in, have something to eat on the Terrace then assemble for our first outing. Not everyone made it… sleep, later.

Bhupi, our Local Guide was introduced to us, Two Guides. Retracing ground we had covered en route to the Hotel, we were taken to the edge of Delhi, the original core, to visit Jama Masjid, one of the largest Mosques in India. We had been warned about having to part with our shoes and cover up. Ladies were given enough cloth to cover themselves, Chaps had to wear makeshift skirts. A Young Girl joined me

whilst Marg set up the ritual photo, she was disappointed, Hector has a heart of stone. We were warned not to give to Children money; it distracts them from going to school, and the Mafia as featured in Slumdog Millionaire continue. On a Sunday the place was full of kids. The uneven ground, the hot flagstones, even birdseed made for discomfort underfoot. Hector was glad to find his sandals waiting at the gate.
As we assembled outside the gate, a security Chap asked Marg if a young girl could have her photograph taken with her. Assuming a scam, this was declined. However, Bhupi informed us that this would be a feature of our Trip. People from the Villages do not see Tourists, especially Whites, Young Women and Girls love to have their photos taken with the Ladies.

Raj Ghat is public park in northern New Delhi, here is the Samadhi, or Gandhi’s cremation site, the final part of today’s excursion. Gandhi’s House had been postponed until our Delhi return due to our late arrival. As ever, Marg was as interested, perhaps more, in the wildlife. Kites and Chipmunks made her day.

There was little time to spare before Dinner. What could The Hector possibly expect for Dinner in India. The Buffet was Satisfactory rather than – Wow. The Couple we had dined with, Allan and Allison, joined us for Drinks in the Bar. The small Bar was busy, over-spill into the corridor. The Twenty Twenty Cricket was on TV, live from just down the road, literally. European Enthusiasts sat with The Locals, the latter were rowdy then joyful when India beat Australia.
Wine was over £25.00 both in the Garden Terrace Restaurant and in the Bar, no thank you. Kingfisher was the only Bier Hector could contemplate. Kingfisher Ultra was new, so had to be sampled. It’s a 5% Kingfisher, Cold, Yellow and Fizzy. Marg had Baileys, no Ice, one cannot trust the Water. Two Rounds, over £20.00. This is what happens when one is on a Tour, the Tour Company make a killing on the Hotel Rate with their Block Bookings. The Hotels are able to offer Food such that Economies of Scale guarantee their investment, meanwhile the Customer is taken prisoner. There must be somewhere else Hector can go for a Bier. Taxi? Knackered, bedtime.

The Hotel visited today:

Maidens Hotel

India Trip 2016 – Day 2 –Hector’s India Trip – A Day in New Delhi

Posted in New Delhi | 1 Comment

Buttenheim – The Löwenbräu Bockbier Tapping 2015

Posted on November 6, 2015 by Hector

As the Bamberg Blog entries have recorded, Hector is no stranger to Bamberg and Bockbier. However, due to the restraints of employment, only those Bocks which had been tapped by Mid-October were sampled, though Dr. Stan and Hector did return from Löwenbräu Buttenheim with Bottles of Bock before the Tapping, once upon a time. The Company basically put the visit back to November to cover more Bocks. Hector is here!
Dr. Stan took the morning ICE from Dusseldorf to Wurzburg transferring to Local Trains via Bamberg to Buttenheim. It is a 1.4km walk from the so-called Buttemheim Bahnhof to the the actual town, uphill, pulling the luggage.

Arriving at Hotel am Markt which is across the road from the St. Georgen Brauhaus, Hector’s room key was on a hook outside. Self Check-in at a new level. Jim, Aileen had already checked in with Hansi at the Löwenbräu Gaststätte, Dr. Stan and another Alan were at the Schloss Landhotel also along the street. Jonathan would arrive by Chariot later.

Entering the Gaststätte every table in the main room was full, Hansi was at the rear, he recognised me immediately, for once, and said – Am Rechts. We had a table booked in the Dining Room for later, Hector ordered Kellerbier, before it had arrived Jim, Aileen and Alan had joined me, Dr. Stan arrived moments later. We then moved to the table we had booked – Hansi. Let the records show that Hector was the only person at the Festival who was appropriately dressed.

The Tapping was scheduled for 18.00, there were no Fireworks, no Klaxon. Having forced down Deutsche Cuisine it was time to move to the Festival Site.
As the Germans do so well, the courtyard in front of the Brewery had been transformed into temporary Village. A Bier Stall was outside selling – Other Drinks. We entered the Zelt to the strains of Musik, the Bock was flowing, every table was booked, the majority occupied. The Bockbier was taken outside.

Outside in November

Hector was warned it could be cold here in November. Hector was prepared.

Three weeks ago in Polska, Hector was frozen, since then the temperature across Western Europe has been unseasonably high. The Fleece was removed, Jonathan and Hector were in short sleeves. The adjacent Braziers proved to be most efficient.
The Bockbier

There is a fear that – Sweet – could be the Palate’s Reaction to tasting Bockbier. Mahrs and Keesman have been brewing increasingly sweet Brews in recent years. That served this evening lived up to the expectation which had us assembled here. Dangerously easy to Supp, it was.
In time, those who had to take the last Train to Forchheim, Hirschaid, Eggolsheim, and Bamberg were disappearing, the joy of being Resident. We moved indoors. The Fest continued.

The Musik Man had played non-stop. With the required technology at his disposal he could pay virtually anything. The Replacement Samsung was put put to use, a large font. Smoke on the Water was held up, success Sierra Madre? He asked the remaining Crowd, they – Booed! Half an hour later he played Sierra Madre, the Crowd were on the benches, as they should be.

And then there were Two

But, not before we were joined by some Young Chaps who were out way past their bedtimes.

No surprises for guessing that Jonathan and Hector were almost Last Men Out. The last Photo was timed at 02.43. Taxi home, oh, no need. Jonathan and Hector have a tendency to be – Last Out – tonight Jonathan was most certainly – Last In.

The Tapping in 2016 will be on Friday, November 4

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Praha – The Fourth and Final Day of Prague 2015

Posted on November 1, 2015 by Hector

The fourth and final day of this Prague Trip saw Hector doing his own thing. With an evening flight back to Glasgow, there was the Opperchancity to take things easy after the Educational Excess of the past two days.

Tram 9 took Hector to Hlvani Nadrazi where the luggage was abandoned for a few hours. The same number of Tram took me on to Lipanska, how many times have I used this stop in the last few days? Nearby Pivo a Parek has been done, twice. Mailsi – Pakistani Restaurant was the attraction, a venue I shall certainly return to.

Tram 9 took Hector somewhere near the Vltava, time to be a Tourist. The Charles Bridge had to be crossed, it’s what one does. For many this results in a walk up the hill to the Castle, for Hector the objective was a Bar-Restauarant I have been visiting since the earliest Trips to Praha.

U Glaubicu sells Pilsner Urquell, as Traditional a Pivo as can be. At a modest 4.4%, a much lower abv than one would look for these days, but appropriate for my purposes today. Too sweet by far, it was only after I had ordered I remembered that the Unfiltered version was also sold here. The ashtrays on the table were also an annoyance. As I recall, the rooms to the rear are non-smoking.

Downhill for a change from Lipanska lies U Slovanske Lipy, a Pub which had been recommended by The Man from Bradford. With Ten Taps, enough to be considered a Multi Tap venue.

Lobkowicz – Pale Ale – at 4.4% was a gentle start to the day. Dark Gold, dry, some Hop flavour was noticeable, but had so much better in the last two days. The place was quiet, three other customers, as I left there were none.

A Trip which ends with a whimper, not a bang.

The Bars visited today:

Pivnice U Glaubicu – Malostranské námestí 266/5, Praha 1 – Malá Strana

U Slovanske Lipy – Tachovské namestí 288/6, Praha 3 – Žižkov

Posted in Praha - Prague | Comments Off

Bier-Traveller

Agra, Uttar Pradesh – The Taja Mahal, Agra Fort + I’timad-ud-Daulah

Agra, Uttar Pradesh – via Fatehpur Sikri and Sikandra

Jaipur-Bharatpur – The Train to Bharatpur, for Breakfast-Heute #3

Day 5, Jaipur – Disclocated Day: Another Temple, Another Bier

Jaipur, Rajahstan – A Wonderful Day: A Fort, A Carpet, a Bier

Day 3 – The Road to Jaipur, via Patan

Hector’s India Trip – A Day in New Delhi

Hector’s 2016 India Trip starts here

Buttenheim – The Löwenbräu Bockbier Tapping 2015

Praha – The Fourth and Final Day of Prague 2015

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