München – Oktoberfest 2015 – Mittwoch

This is Hector’s Version, and he’s sticking with it.

Oktoberfest 2015 Bier-Traveller (78)Hector has been t’Oktoberfest twice, both times during the Glasgow September Weekend, full price flights, rip-off hotel prices in München. Lord Clive of Crawley has been the only Ever-present.
When Jonathan joined The Company so many years back he related how it is possible to go t’Oktoberfest midweek and not struggle to find a seat early on, move about even. Fine for those who can choose when to take a Vacation, for us poor Teachers, ah, but no more! Has Hector mentioned – Retiral – only in the opening paragraph.
Armed with #1 Bayern Tickets, six set off from Nürnberg just after 09.00. We watched the direct RE depart ahead of us, by changing at Ingolstadt we would save some twenty minutes. Many had the same idea given the volume of the Bier Cargo brought on to the train by those dressed in t’Traditional Costume. Taking Bier to the World’s Biggest Bier Festival… only in Bayern.
Arriving in München we expected to see the Hauptbahnhof Reception Committee for the Wave of Syrian et al Refugees, the Station was just it usual bustle. There was an ambulance on the concourse. Clive and Hector went to park Clive’s luggage, he would return home this evening, if fit to fly. Jonathan, Dr. Stan, Jim and Aileen went straight to the Wiesn. Yes, Dr. Stan! The Man who said – Never again.  We forgot to bring his dress.
Clive and Hector had – Other Business – before any Festbier was consumed, this is Munchen, there is another priority – Food – and this – Food – has to be – Curry – and there is only one venue where – The Curry – can be consumed – Indian Mango.
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Fischer Vroni is the only Oktoberfest Zelt that Hector has set foot in previously, though at Frühlingsfest others have been encountered. Is it really five months since Frühlingsfest? It was not difficulty to find the others such are the wonders of technology. A table reserved at 17.00 would provide the locus for Bier #1, the Augustiner. Superb. There had to be photos, there had to postings on the various Social Media, – Others must suffer. I have previously, it isn’t my turn, I have completed my thirty four years of work at a top West of Scotland Independent School. Maybe thirty five was the original plan and this visit was not expected until 2016, however such is the Demoralising Mess that the Scottish Education System finds itself in, – Exit Stage Left… Today is a/the day Hector has been looking forward to most for over a decade. The Augustiner Festbier had Edelstoff as the route of its name – Wiesn Edelstoff (€10.30) – Yay, we like Edelstoff, actually Dr. Stan prefers the Helles, he’ll never find out.
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Being much quieter, between – Prosits – there were fewer Fish being prepared, Less Aroma, Less Atmosphere. Hector is convinced that it was the visits here previously which awakened the Taste-buds to – Fish – Fish Curry – and now – Fisch Chettinad.
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Dr. Stan was pacing himself, Three moved on to the Ochsenbraterei Spaten Tent, we joined as soon as. One half of the Tent was full, again later bookings put people off these tables, were they here for the duration? The Spatenfestbier was also a joy, once we were served.

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Doris, Our Doris, was deep in conversation with a fellow worker, two tables from us, same passage, we were ignored. When it came time for her to end her conversation she deigned to serve the remaining three Biers. Where the Musik in Fischer Vroni had all been Bayerische, Traditional, here we had to suffer the vagaries of so called Popular Musik. Take me home, Country Roads, to the place…
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The Chickens are dead, we’re in The Zone

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Once again, Jim, Aileen and Jonathan were ready to move on before those who have not been here for some years. Far right in the Löwenbräu Tent – was the message. It was now mid-afternoon, the Fest was Filling. The Löwenbräu  Tent was at the far end of the site, the Laughing Lion is a Legend.

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The far right  of the Tent was stowed, Jonathan was phoned, they were outside, well inside but at the side, outside, never mind…. Just as we were about to leave – The Inner Sanctum – Hector, alert and vigilant spotted a gap created by departing Weans, we were in!
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Only three momentarily occupied the table which should have accepted eight. The Others were informed, – We have Seats! The third Mass is never a problem, drinking it before it gets warm is the main concern rather than the falling over possibility. One can be – taken out – by falling bodies. On Visit #1, Hector attempted Impossible Gymnastics to get from his seat to the passage, the Resulting Debris cheered… just as well. The Band were just along from us, the Tent was Full, this was t’Oktoberfest.
Mathäser
Oktoberfest 2015 Bier-Traveller (47)From 1976 until 1986, the  Mathäser Bierstadt was everything to Hector. Löwenbräu Helles/Dunkles by the Mass, a Band, that all could see and react with. Where Reinhard used to play. The side rooms (Inside) the Main Tent had Local Names, one was Mathäser, this stared at me throughout, I should have swopped seats with Clive.
As is the norm, the table bonded. A Brother and Sister from -???? – and a younger Chap. We have Seats! They were happy to continue the blocking of the seats so as The Others could join us. We found The Others inside out, outside in. It was still empty out there within the Löwenbräu Perimeter. There was a text – Olaf is here. By now, The Others had moved to a Hacker-Pschorr Tent to accommodate the new arrival.

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Dr. Stan is a Very Naughty Boy
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As we neared the end of Litre 3 Heute, Dr. Stan made a suggestion – We have seats, inside, why move? Bier #4! By now we were well in with out Table Associates, we still had seats blocked – We have Seats!

We’re on our way – was the last thing Hector heard from Jim today. The Plan was to rendezvous at the Hofbräu Tent where Jonathan assured us there was A Pit, standing service. Everywhere else, no Seat, no Bier. We have Seats!
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Nearing 18.00, Dr. Stan again made a proclamation. Knowing that we were due to depart in time for the sensible 19.09 back to Ingolstadt/Nürnberg and we were all on the same Bayern Ticket, he suggested he go and we stay on longer. This message was relayed to Jonathan, Jim and Aileen. I believe there was concurrence. Clive would have had to leave at some point to get to the Airport. The Hofbräu Tent was calling. Exiting the Löwenbräu  Tent I managed to lose Dr. Stan and Clive. There was a communique, apparently the 19.09 was re-instated. Jim had unilaterally declared it was time to go home and had left, with Aileen. Was Hector the only person still at t’Oktoberfest?
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Spotting an exit, I could not work out why the closer I walked to the U Bahn Station, the further I was getting from it. There was a realisation, Hector would never make the 19.09. Despite having left first, Jim and Aileen never made it either. Dr. Stan and Jonathan were the only two on the ticket for five.
Hector had left the site on the far side. What was a Hector to do?
The Trusty DB App informed that the next optimum train was in two hours. How does a Hector amuse himself for two hours in München ?
Taxi –Zweibrückenstraße Bitte. Time for Lamm Chettinad. Nobody at Indian Mango was surprised to see me.
I still had over an hour, the Augstiner Gastätten had to be visited, one cannot come to München and not visit, also the Edelstoff had to be sampled, for comparison purposes.
With Steven Wilson’s – Hand Cannot Erase – uninterrupted, the journey back was gone in no time. Had I chosen not to change at Ingolstadt I would still have arrived in Nürnberg, but some half hour later.
Strange, all in all, this was a remarkably Sober Oktoberfest.

Posted in München | 2 Comments

Katowice – Fahren de Polen

katowice-bier-traveller-76The Inter City Train from Warszawa to Katowice impressed all. Howard no doubt considered writing a letter to Scotrail to ask why they are so crap in comparison. 59Zl, a Tenner each, tickets bought the day before, none of this obscure UK Ticket Pricing nonsense. Brand new rolling stock, comfortable, clean, punctual. A waste bin sat at ankle height between Dr. Stan and Hector, lined with a poly-bag, hygiene. It was even checked/replaced as required in transit. Table service, complimentary coffee, soft drinks. A Dry-cleaning service was available for #1 Passenger who sat three abreast across the carriage. Announcements in English, this was Train Travel Century #21, Gerry Anderson would have been proud.

The clever travel trick is to have a train depart just after checking-out time at a hotel and arrive just on checking-in time at the next destination. Three hours is therefore the optimum journey time between any two European Cities. Katowice fitted the bill. Why are we here? Bernard couldn’t believe the decision, Hector knows best. Hector was out on a limb, the day could go tits up, still one day, only…

The Hotel Katowice impressed last October when Marg and Hector stayed two nights. Five minutes on foot from the station, at the edge of the still being refurbished Main Square, Rynek. Most were delighted to be reminded that we had paid at the time of booking, an even cheaper day. The Single Rooms were brighter than the publicity photos suggested, more than adequate, but no air-con. Open Windae’? Mosquito repellent required tonight. Yvonne has furnished us all with individual bottles of Avon – Skin So Soft, nice. We are a Fragrant Collective.

Katowice- The Tour

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Heading right out of Hotel Katowice takes one towards the large arena of which the citizens are proud. Hector still prefers the smaller venue to the left of the Hotel where Pendragon and other Prog Rock Acts have performed over the years, we’ll pass them by, eventually.

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A sculpture that puzzled us all had to be photographed, beyond this lies the Mining Museum. There was a crowd. (Sorry, Mr. Vonnegut) This is – The Place – to congregate in Katowice. All sorts were waiting to go underground, not us. Mags asked which direction the first pub of the day was. Hector pointed one hundred and eighty degrees to the direction of travel. Bernard no doubt told us a Brief History of Time, or even the Social-Political-History of Silesian Coal Mining. Kenny gets a mention, he is in the group photo, the last we see of him today?

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Across the trunk road towards the University and the vista is pure Poland 1960+, hideous. Howard gets the blame for everything. It takes ages to cross any road, – death to jaywalkers – we are led to believe. We conform, just. Who wants to see the church? That’s it in the distance, it looks the same close up, only larger. Enough. Time to head along the main pedestrian street which is active already mid-afternoon. The Youngsters are out, drinking Bier, well the stuff we are here to avoid. We pass the spot where Marg first glimpsed her Musik-Hero – Clive Nolan – in October last, nobody is impressed. Along the main drag towards the station once more, we lose Howard and Bernard, not clever, Biala Malpa is in a lane off the main street. Craig volunteers to wait at the entrance to guide them in. Where is Dr. Stan, Kenny? Only Yvonne, Mags and Hector are at the Bar. The Taps are aplenty, there are but four Pump clips. WTF?

katowice-bier-traveller-21You have no Bier! Hector is in the shit.

It is arriving just now.

When will it go on?

Soon.

Available soon? Hector spots a Bottle in t’Fridge, an IPA. It is warm, just in. This is the most famous Pub in Katowice, Joe is texted, he must suffer too.

From the Available Four – Do you have something light, hoppy? Mein Host pours a sample of a Black Bier. No thanks. Draught Belgian Bier in Polska? Brugs Witte has to suffice, a Hoegarden Variant. Mags and Yvonne follow suit, Craig appears, he sits this out. Hector is in Deep Shit.

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katowice-bier-traveller-13Dr. Stan and Kenny arrive, Bernard and Howard realise they have lost us… The Pump clips appear, slowly we find Quality Polish Bier. Now, Dear Reader, Hector has to admit that for the remainder of Fahren de Polen, the accurate Bier-Reporting will be dependent on photos of the Bier. The Trusty Samsung packed in, Factory Reset, data lost. Total Shit.

Even Craig found a Hoppy Bier he liked, the afternoon was improving as each Tap was restored. The Bottles had time to chill, the IPA. Imperial CitraIPA – in – The Style. No Rowing Jack here, they had it in bottles last visit. Kenny calls it a day; he is not right. The afternoon progresses, slowly, a sensible pace. Two Venues promised for later, Robert, Mein Host at Browariat, is expecting us. C4 is en route. Curry-Heute, the last remaining Katowice Curry Source remains unblogged. Nobody else fancies Curry. What is wrong with these people? Hector suggest the others try Krysztalowa, Ladies, do not order – The Ribs!

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No Curry-Heute

katowice-bier-traveller-29Krysztalowa impressed so much when Hector dined with Marg, Curry was abandoned, let’s Dine. A table for eight please. Doris and Bert were taken aback. We were asked to wait. Mein Hostess came from a different direction and welcomed us warmly. We were escorted to the Main Dining Room where two tables had now been set together. Who ordered Wine? The Ladies. Who ordered The Ribs? – The Ladies.

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Howard ordered something Steak-like, The Waiter tied a Bib around his throat, sorry, neck. What did he know? Has knowledge of Howard’s lack of table etiquette reached Silesia? Craig ordered Soup, he raved about it.

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Perogi, Dumplings, to share. Hector was not falling for ordering this Starter then try to follow with a Main, impossible. Dr. Stan would share, Bernard ordered a whole portion. Golombki as The Main, with Tomato Sauce, as eaten since 1962-ish. Time to remind Dr. Stan that Golombki was Dr. Rick’s Favourite Polish Dish. The Waiter apologises, not enough Golombki. We flip the order, have it to share as a Starter, full portion of Dumplings to follow. The Ladies struggled from the off with the Ribs, the accompanying Potatoes, the Side Cabbage. Who wants some? QED.

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Howard showed the World that he has mastered the use of Eating Irons. Why The Bib? Howard remains the focus of attention, he can cope. Meanwhile those here for the first time are loving the service, the ambience, the décor. We are in the set of a 1950s Spy Novel. The Bill comes. This place, like the Milk Bars, must be Government Subsidised, the Prices are artificially – low. The Chaps paid Pennies, The Ladies paid for their wine, who else had a glass? Not Hector, Bier was calling.

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C4 was located through the dingy underpass around the corner from Kryzstalowa, it is now a posh – Rum Bar. Consider Biala Malpa had not produced the goods and this was my fall-back…

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Browariat

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Robert greeted us as we entered, did we stand out that much? I had Curry for dinner tonight in your honour. Why didn’t he invite me? In Browariat there is Bier. The Taps had doubled from four to eight, something for everyone. For some, Bedtime was rapidly approaching. The Literature caught the imagination of The Chaps. CAMBA we all know from our Easter Trip to München. FourPure’s Wheat Bier was available on Tap, it was at this very place last October when I sampled my first Bermondsey Ale, tonight I had to have some Artezan IPA having had it at source. Paranoid Citrus IPA at 6.5% had to be sampled, as ever we were – chasing the Hop.

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Robert showed us his roof terrace where Hops were growing in pots. Have you ever considered making Bier from Methi? – I had to ask. The answer was in the negative, however, the seed was planted I hope.

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The numbers dwindled, Howard and Hector were left with Dr. Stan. We thought we were leaving when Robert insisted we share a bottle of Vorsicht Hopfen at 7.0%

Hector escorted Howard back to Hotel Katowice. Beware of Ladies twirling red umbrellas, they want you to go to places where trouble awaits, and no doubt Crap Bier at Exorbitant prices.

The Bars and Restaurant visited today:

Browariat  –  Francuska 11 40-015 Katowice
Biala Malpa  –  3 Maja 38 40-097 Katowice
Krysztalowa  –  ul Warszwawska 5 Katowice

And so to Krakow.

 

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Fahren de Polen – Two Days in Warszawa

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Fahren de Polen aka – The Cycling Trip was conceived in the latter part of 2014. Knowing enough of Krakow, one has to be able to hike at a moments notice, especially when Mr. Holden decrees, or the clock.
After an interesting two nights in Katowice, something to do with Prog Rock last October, Hector dared to add a overnight stop in this trip between Warszawa and the five days in Krakow, it’ll never work.
Mr. O’Leary took seven of eight to Warszawa Modlin. Various people had described the complexities of getting to the City from the Airport. One source mentioned the Metro, but only if one lands at Chopin. Dr. Stan was on the ball, taxi. Indeed we found a taxi for seven with no difficulty. The advertised price was 159Zl, though there were no complaints when the meter ran on. A Fiver a head to cover some 40km.
Fahren de Polen Warsawa Bier-Traveller (39)The Ibis Centrum was found to be further from the Centrum than anticipated. Maps show the grid layout of Warszawa, they mask the fact that it is the main boulevards that stand out, not the intermediary sub-blocks. Dr. Stan had a list of Recommended Pubs from Mr. Holden, Hector has resigned himself to actually looking at BeerPubs.pl as a source. The nearest Pub to the Ibis sold the sort of Bier we drink when in Maroc, Eurofizz. This Trip was about finding the Perfect Pint from the ever increasing array of Polish Craft Breweries. One sticks in the word – Craft – and the Bier Price doubles from £1.00 a pint to £2.00. Better than Bermondsey.  In Poland, Craft Beer only costs £2.00 a pint, or less.
Chmielarnia – The Land of The Hop
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The Trusty Samsung aided the navigation along unknown streets, we were in fact walking along the western periphery of the Warsaw Ghetto as would be discovered in daylight. Arriving at Chmielarnia the ground floor bistro was empty, just gone 22.00, it was closed. Try the less than obvious entrance through what looks like a Community Hall entrance, as sign. Bon Aroma, Curry! Downstairs, a Bar!

Fahren de Polen Warsawa Bier-Traveller (4)The chalkboard listed the Draught Biers, a bout a Dozen or so. It was Dr. Stan who first spotted Rowing Jack (6.2%, Ale Browar, Polska), success. The Bier Hector has raved about for the last two years was available. (It was nowhere to be seen last October.). Five and a Half Pints of Rowing Jack please, Dr. Stan had something else.
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Hector watched the Poland Virgins sat silently and take in The Hops. Not a word. One by one they realised that this Bier is something very special. By the end of the visit, Craig stated that this was all he wanted to drink tomorrow. The Green Devil Effect.
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Fahren de Polen Warsawa Bier-Traveller (15)Where was Bernard?
Hector had been given strict instructions. Bernard will fit in and out of this trip as it suits him, I should not him. Craig required technology, Yvonne texted Bernard. Eventually Bernard turned up at Chmielarnia, not a Happy Chap. More Rowing Jack.
The Aroma was getting to Hector, I enquired. Too late, kitchen closed. (22.00)  Tomorrow is another day.
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The Locals were aware of an Invasion of Scots. Mein Host, Kuba, was warming to us. That we had known of Chmielarnia impressed. The Musik became very familiar – 500 Miles, By Yon Bonny Banks...   A Bottle of – Something Special – was brought. A Doppelbock Dunkel. This was passed to Howard, very much his style.
Kuba gave me an introduction to a Landlord in Wroclaw, for when I get there. Easter 2016?

Closing Time
The Bottle of Doppelbock was opened and split around the table in small quantities, just as well.
Still, a great welcome to Warszawa.

The Warszawa Concerto
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Kenny decided to join Dr. Stan on the first duty of the day, to buy the train tickets, for eight, for tomorrow. Bernard is coming to Katowice, the man who previously spent less than two hours there some undeclared number of years ago. Hector was navigating his way to Warszawa Glowny, Dr. Stan to Centralna. Kenny decided that his stomach was sending signals, he retreated. What did The Doctor know that Hector did not? Given that on my last visit to Warsaw, when I spent less than two hours here, I emerged from the station beside the Horrendous Palace of Culture I gave in. The shell of Centralna remains, the interior has been gutted. Like the experience of Krakow and Katowice, the Poles appear to have a preference for building Shopping Malls above the train tracks. Integrated Transport? Whatever next?
Eight tickets on the 10.45 to Katowice please, tomorrow. Doris first quoted 150Zl each then brought this down to 49Zl, a bargain. One cannot turn up at a UK train station and buy tickets so close to travel time as cheaply as this.
Dr. Stan went on his way, he had breakfast already. Hector was off in search of his first Warszawa CurryNamaste was closest. No sooner had I sat down when Howard walked in, total chance. No Curry, or venue had been discussed. Hector and Howard would spend the rest of the day together.
The Metro
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One can expect to use the Metro in any city by consulting the Topological Map. In Warszawa this is a secret. I had my 24 Hour Ticket, where are we going? Had I taken the time to consult a street map I could have worked out the various stations, but not the lines. There are two – M1 and M2, with one station where they cross. We boarded a Metro and alighted after two stops at the Arsenal. Good guess, we were moments from the Old Town – Stare Miasto.
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In 1992, I walked round this in no time at all. Art and Crafts is all there was, today there are the expected Cafes and Restaurants, none of which purvey what we seek. Howard had been here already.

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Bier O’Clock
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BeerPubs.pl showed Pub Pod Barylka as our nearest plausible venue. Google Maps are not good in 3D. The Voice-Doris kept giving us conflicting directions. The stairs, this must be what she is trying to get us to use. Across the main road and finally, a Mainstream Pub, damn. A disappointing Kastel, despite the pump-clip suggesting – Intense Hops. We were the only customers. At least the Musik kept us amused: The Who for Howard, Ritchie Blackmore for Hector.
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The Texts
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Yvonne wondered if we were at a Pub. Yes. Dr, Stan was making his way to  Po Drugiej Stronie Lustra across the river. Google Maps said it was – Closed Permanently. Dr. Stan insisted otherwise. Howard and Hector walked across the Vistula and found the street. Mags wanted precise directions. These were sent, a choice of four trams, first stop across the river.
Po Drugiej Stronie Lustra was closed Permanently? No Dr. Stan either. Why do people have answering machines active on Mobile Phones? Why do people never answer their Mobile Phones. BeerPubs.pl assured us that another Bar was a few hundred metres – Absurdu
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Eventually The Barman served us having taken care of paperwork. Two Draught Biers only. One was – aff. The other? His description did not sell it, another Lager of no consequence. By now I had spotted Bottles with American Hops from the rather poor array of Bottles on display. Ale – said The Barman.
This guy could not sell ice in a desert – was my observation.
Eventually Dr. Stan rematerialised. From Po Drugiej Stronie Lustra he had walked to our locus.
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The decor in Absurdu was outstanding, carpets adorned the walls, there was a Mezzanine too. Quirky. We like quirky.
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Three glasses of Wodka and a glass of Cranberry Juice were brought by Mein Host. Alex, the Barman,  we now liked. Polish Hospitality – he declared. The Menu had said that every third Bier would be on the house. Was this? No a Chap sitting at the Bar had stood us these. Glorious.
The Bier drinking slowed right down. Another round of Wodka came. Howard arranged a reciprocal drink for our Benefactor. His third? We left, escaped, with smiles on our faces.
The next nearest venue was a few blocks away, Sens Nonsensu. Gone. A few hundred metres further on Lucyfer, Gone. BeerPubs.pl is not so reliable then. The Local Foot-soldiers need to provide better information.
Fahren de Polen Warsawa Bier-Traveller (100)Dr. Stan wanted to take a Tram, Hector insisted we try the Metro. Where were we? Where was the line going? We got on, we got off, we got on in the same direction again. There appeared to be contradictory information. Rondo – said Dr. Stan would be our objective, this meant changing lines. A map! Just the one. We were back outside the Palace of Culture, our next objective was on the same street as where Howard and Hector had Curry. How improbable?
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Fahren de Polen Warsawa Bier-Traveller (81) Lemoniadowy– said Dr. Stan. We found the address, across the street was Hoppiness – a much more attractive alternative, Lemoniadowy only sells The Mainstream it should not be listed. Hoppiness must be new. They had suitably Hoppy Bier. It was after 18.00, the third Bier of the day.
Moments away was Bla Bla whose address did not describe the location. Perseverance can pay. More Hops, the day was getting better.
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Chmielarnia was walk-able, but back we went to the Metro for a stop or two, such confidence. The Four were there, Rowing Jack was still on. We joined in. There was Curry on offer, we had to. The Fish Balti was Outstanding.  No Kenny.
Fahren de Polen Warsawa Bier-Traveller (108)Fahren de Polen Warsawa Bier-Traveller (107)

Hector had walked over 20km today. The Cycling Trip – QED.

… and so to Katowice

The Bars visited in Warszawa

Chmielarnia – Twarda 42 02-026 Warszawa

Pub Pod Barylka – Garbarska 7 00-306 Warszawa

W Oparach Absurdu – Z?bkowska 6 03-735 Warszawa

Hoppiness – Chmielna 27/31 Warszawa

Bla Bla – Nowogrodzka 22 00-511 Warszawa

Pubs we went to, but…
Po Drugiej Stronie Lustra – Jagiellonska 22 03-719 Warszawa (Not open until 18.00?)

Lemoniadowy Joe Chmielna 28A (w bramie) Warszawa (sells only mainstream Eurofizz)

Sens Nonsensu – Wilenska 23 Warszawa    (Gone)

Lucyfer – Wilenska 43 Warszawa                 (Gone)

Posted in Warszawa | 2 Comments

Musselburgh – The Staggs – POTY

Staggs Musselburgh POTY 2015 (6)Staggs Musselburgh POTY 2015 (8)Today was another in the regular monthly visits to the Staggs in Musselburgh by The Weegies as were are called locally, or The Company as Hector prefers. It was also the Edinburgh CAMRA Branch’s AGM. Hopefully they would not be hypnotised by Hanging Baskets and would award Nigel, Mein Host in the Staggs, his rightful prize. It is about time the Glasgow Branch of CAMRA was able to make an Official Award this far east, we did present an informal one a couple of months back. This is on display behind the gantry.  POTY outside Our Area?
Staggs Musselburgh POTY 2015 (7)Staggs Musselburgh POTY 2015 (1)

Five arrived by Train and Taxi Andy (Farewell, Rab, enjoy your retirement!), The Faither came later by Bus. Hugh and Willie were already in situ, the start of a Crawl. How could they leave? Look at The Board!
Staggs Musselburgh POTY 2015 (29)Neil and Hector kicked off with Bishops’s Farewell (Oakham, Peterborough, Cambridgeshire) at 4.7%. Dry, Blond and Hoppy, in – The Style – favoured by both The Company and Mein Host who always has an array of the Finest Pale, Hoppy Ales. White Light at 4.7% (Tempest, Scottish Borders) has been enjoyed on these premises previously. The Little Brother of Long White Cloud and featuring New Zealand Hops, this had to be revisited. On our last visit to Staggs it was suggested that Long White Cloud was returning towards the magnificent standard achieved some three years ago. Long White Cloud was tried at the Helensburgh Ale Fest last night, it wasn’t. My records also have White Light at 5.0% on my last visit. This set Nigel the task of finding an old pump clip. My records cannot be inaccurate, surely? White Light is way better than its Big Brother.
Craig had Diablo (Summer Wine, Holmfirth, Yorkshire) at a Session Ale strength of 6%. We enjoyed this at Source at New Year 2014. Full bodied, Dry and Hoppy, Sensational. These are the Ales we like.
The Main Event was another Oakham, Green Devil, again at 6.0% Along with Hawkshead’s (Staveley, Cumbria) NZPA, surely one of the Two Supreme Ales on offer at this time. Ironically, Green Devil has been on sale around Glasgow every day bar one for the past two weeks. Unheard of. The Peterborough Ale Festival will be covered in these pages in August. Hector will have all the time required to keep this Blog up to date by then. The Green Devil was in Excellent Condition. Again, Full Bodied with a dominance of Citra, or – Grapefruit – as The Duke insists.
Staggs Musselburgh POTY 2015 (2)Staggs Musselburgh POTY 2015 (3)

I note The Company was here in greater force for this day last year. Dr. Stan and Chairman Howard were at Kilcreggan today. Euan now resides in Aberdoom, The Bier Desert.  The Duke is in Kent. Still, there were some well-kent faces here today. George aka – Doddie – was down from Aberdoom. Jim Lawrie, with proofs of his latest book, sat with us. Eddie, our Favourite Local, sat with Craig for an Ale or two. Ron, who runs Eddie close, also joined us for an interminable time.

Staggs Musselburgh POTY 2015 (5)Staggs Musselburgh POTY 2015 (21)

Nigel was happy to receive his award – Lothians Pub of The Year.  What about Scotland’s POTY?

Staggs Musselburgh POTY 2015 (10)I shall introduce no more as my description of one featured Chap caused hilarity once upon a time. Forth Valley, I shall say no more.

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Staggs Musselburgh POTY 2015 (13)Staggs Musselburgh POTY 2015 (16)

Seven weeks to go?  To what?  I hope it is less than than that.  28 Working Days to go.

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Taxi Andy took us back to Waverley. The now preferred Cross Country Train took us back to Glasgow Central which is much nearer the New Karahi Palace. Four for Curry-Heute.

Posted in Musselburgh | 2 Comments

Sheffield Park – The Bluebell Railway & The Bessemer Arms

Prior to today, Hector was well aware of the existence of the Bluebell Railway, had seen it on TV Dramas but never knew of its precise locus.
Bluebell Railway Bier-Traveller (1)Bluebell Railway Bier-Traveller (2)

As a regular visit to Crawley, West Sussex, it was known to be not that far away. This morning the bus to East Grinstead, the new northern limit of this preserved line, took the best part of an hour. There was a train south at Noon, minutes after Craig, Yvonne, Lord Clive and Lady Maggie arrived at East Grinstead Station. We were ticketed for Seven, where were Robin and Jonathan?
Maggie had bought tickets in advance, today is VE Day, numbers would be limited. We considered leaving the tickets for the Missing Two with The Gripper. This was superseded when Jonathan said he would drive to the far end of the line and meet us there.
Bluebell Railway Bier-Traveller (3)Bluebell Railway Bier-Traveller (5)

The Steam Engine was facing towards the front of the Observation Carriage. The Five found seats with ease having passed people in 1940s costume occupying the discrete compartments in the other carriages. A train without a corridor, it has been a while.
Bluebell Railway Bier-Traveller (47)Bluebell Railway Bier-Traveller (29)

Horsted Keynes was the main stop between East Grinstead and the far terminus at Sheffield Park. Here there was much activity on the platforms, musical events, display of arms and a Dad’s Army type display by the Home Guard. We would return.
Bluebell Railway Bier-Traveller (67)Bluebell Railway Bier-Traveller (72)

Sheffield Park? Hector encountered an excellent Ale brewed by 360° on an Ale Tour of Lewes last year, what chance? Alighting at the terminus, there was no sign of Jonathan and Robin and very little phone signal.

Bluebell Railway Bier-Traveller (74)Bluebell Railway Bier-Traveller (15)

Hector popped in to the Bessemer Arms and found Two Casks , one was the 360° West Coast IPA at 5.6%, the very Ale we sought.  This is a Dark Gold IPA with plenty of American Hops, definitely in the required style.

Bluebell Railway Bier-Traveller (17)Bluebell Railway Bier-Traveller (16)

We had time for the Swift Half, literally, for once. Jonathan and Robin were found and declared it was better for them to commence the eight hour drive back to Glasgow at this time. The rest of us would continue to play on the trains. There was a 14.00 appointment at Horsted Keynes.

Bluebell Railway Bier-Traveller (24)Bluebell Railway Bier-Traveller (25)

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As part of the VE Day celebrations, a Hawker Hurricane was due to fly over at 14.00. Delayed by a late take off from Biggin Hill, this gave more time to consider The Few, the participants in the Battle of Britain in which the Hurricane and Spitfire also had their Finest Hour. The Hurricane greatly outnumbered its counterpart in this Six Week Dogfight. A pity it proved to be impossible to photograph a fast moving subject with a non-SLR digital camera. Somewhere in the photo is a speck… the found photo may be more respectful.

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We had an hour between trains, a chance to watch the Home Guard go through their motions.  The Chaps looked authentic but their Officer was no Captain Mainwairing.

Bluebell Railway Bier-Traveller (48)Bluebell Railway Bier-Traveller (20)

The Ladies remarked upon the smartness of the US Army uniforms.  Craig and Hector cringed at the thought of having to wear the thick woollen British Army Battledress, not for our sensitive disposition.

Bluebell Railway Bier-Traveller (50)Bluebell Railway Bier-Traveller (53)

Bluebell Railway Bier-Traveller (52)Bluebell Railway Bier-Traveller (54)

We had to stand on the train back down to Sheffield Park where we knew the Ale awaited.  This was indeed a bonus.  Quality US Hops, in the style The Company seek.  This time we even managed to secure a table and plastic glasses for the return trip back to East Grinstead.

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Prior to boarding, Hector walked ot the far end of the platform at Sheffield Park to cross the Greenwich Meridian.  What is Hector’s obsession with GMT?

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The last train arrived at East Grinstead on time, but as is typical of public transport in the UK, there was no join up with the bus to Crawley.  Still, Hector had Gatwick on his mind.

Bluebell Railway Bier-Traveller (89)Bluebell Railway Bier-Traveller (87)

Work tomorrow, but not for a whole lot longer.

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#1 Visit – The Bermondsey Beer Mile

An early rise on a Saturday morning, there must be Bier and Travel involved.
Bermondsey Ale Trail Bier-Traveller (4)News of The Bermondsey Beer Mile has spread north of The Border, The Company are based in Crawley for the weekend. Hector is resident with Lord Clive and Lady Maggie who graciously took us to Partridge Green last evening having gone the extra mile and collected Hector at Gatwick. There would be no cars today, we had to be on the 09.13 to New Cross Gate. Why this train? Why so early? There was another train station much nearer The Den but it did not connect with Crawley. We picked up Martin en route. The walk from New Cross Gate to The Starting Point was not a short one. Jonathan and Robin went in search of a taxi. New Cross Rd leads to Old Kent Rd, I’ve heard of that. London, whatever this concept is, all looks the same. Hang on, there’s an ironing board abandoned mid-pavement, better stop and take a photo. Whilst Hector was sorting the camera, Craig spotted a plaque displaying the record of a famous former resident. Sir Barnes Wallis! Inventor of the Bouncing Bomb! The Dam Busters! Hector Bounces Back! The day was made already and we hadn’t even had breakfast yet.
Bermondsey Ale Trail Bier-Traveller (5)Bermondsey Ale Trail Bier-Traveller (6)

Breakfast was to be in Zampa Rd outside The Den, home of Millwall FC, it was not a match day. As Clive and Hector, the fittest in The Company entered the Millwall Café, a Chap was sitting, back to door, wearing a Brugs Zote t-shirt. Clive knew him, this was Paul a colleague. Coincidence? Unlikely.

Fourpure Bermondsey Bier-Traveller (2)Fourpure Bermondsey Bier-Traveller (3)

Doris talked Hector through the Breakfast Choices #1, #3# 4… What happened to #2?
Nobody orders that.
I’ll have Breakfast #2. I was not the last to do so.
Fourpure Bermondsey Bier-Traveller (4)Fourpure Bermondsey Bier-Traveller (6)

Fourpure Bermondsey Bier-Traveller (5)The Company Hector had met already and so I sat with Paul. A Bradford City and Hibernian fan, there’s Two of Them. Paul had heard of Mr. Holden but fortunately had never met him. Paul would prove to be a welcomed addition to The Company.
Breakfast took a while, Jonathan and Robin were well behind, two buses. The opening time for the Six Craft Breweries along the Bermondsey Mile is 11.00. It was after 11.00. And so we strode off towards the Bermondsey Trading Estate, home of Fourpure. This walk was not a short one either.

Fourpure Bermondsey Bier-Traveller (10)Fourpure Bermondsey Bier-Traveller (11)

Oh look, South Bermondsey train station, whey did we not start here? There is a distinct lack of Curry Houses in this part of Southwark/Bermondsey, why is this?
Fourpure Bermondsey Bier-Traveller (17)Fourpure Bermondsey Bier-Traveller (12)

On entering the Industrial Unit that is Fourpure, people were setting up Food on the right, the Bar was through to the left.
The IPA at 6.5% would be the perfect start, a Session Ale. With Cascade, Citra and Columbus Hops, this was right up our street.

Two Pints of IPA and 2/3 of something non-Hoppy for The Lady.
£15.00 please.
Fourpure Bermondsey Bier-Traveller (14)Fourpure Bermondsey Bier-Traveller (13)

We managed to claim a bench and slowly savoured the Beer. By the time we had all assembled some were ready to move on. Returning the glasses to t’Bar:
Your Beer is excellent, but £5.00 a pint is taking the piss.
As I returned to my seat, Jonathan pointed out it was £6.00 a pint! This day would either be Abstemious or Expensive.
Hector was once asked by a non-Bier Aficionado – What’s the difference between Real Ale and Craft Beer?

About £2.00 a pint.

We came to them, Transport Costs were Nil, for them, and yet they charge Silly Money? Extortion. We don’t have to buy it, We will not.
On leaving around 12.30, the Food was now up and running – Dosa Deli.
Fourpure Bermondsey Bier-Traveller (21)Fourpure Bermondsey Bier-Traveller (20)

Fourpure Bermondsey Bier-Traveller (19)What? Curry on sale here and I hadn’t spotted it? After the mass of Very Wet English Breakfast consumed at the Millwall Deli, I did not think I would ever eat again. People eat this?
I would return to Fourpure, for The Curry!
Follow the railway arches – was Clive’s instruction, next stop was Partizan. The advance party took one look. People were already spilled outside. The Beer all had Fruit and/or other strange additives, pass it by. Ironically, this was the only Bermondsey Brewery I had previously heard of courtesy of a Bar Owner in Katowice.
Kernel Bermondsey Bier-Traveller (1)Kernel Bermondsey Bier-Traveller (10)

Kernel was next. It shuts at 14.00. We had just over an hour. This is the venue Craig was most looking forward to. Had closing not been imminent, we know he and Yvonne would have encamped. There was a short queue, time to study The Board.
Kernel Bermondsey Bier-Traveller (6)No. 5 – Pale Ale Nelson Sauvin 5.4% sold in 2/3 at £2.80. Quick Maths confirmed this was not OTT. Fourpure, take note. With Nelson Sauvin Hops, how could this Beer fail? It didn’t. Right on the button. We love our Strong, Pale, Hoppy Beers especially those with Hops from The New World.

Kernel Bermondsey Bier-Traveller (12)Kernel Bermondsey Bier-Traveller (16)

The Company had split, some stood at a Barrel, those who needed to found a bench. Eventually all bar Clive, Paul and Hector were at the table, we stood adjacent.
Clive managed to secure a round of drinks. Another IPA…… the Pale Ale Citra Chinook at a mere 5.3%.  More of the same.
Kernel Bermondsey Bier-Traveller (19)Kernel Bermondsey Bier-Traveller (17)

We can stand here and chat, or if we want another Beer we can chat in the queue. And so by the time time we reached the front only the Black IPA was available – in our style – and Hector has never had so many Friends.
Kernel Bermondsey Bier-Traveller (18)Kernel Bermondsey Bier-Traveller (27)

Clive did ask the staff why they closed at 14.00

We close at 2pm because we get too busy.
Perhaps someone with a Business Brain may re-evaluate this Marketing Decision.
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Kernel Bermondsey Bier-Traveller (34)Kernel Bermondsey Bier-Traveller (32)

We were last out. Had they closed at midnight we would have been last out. That’s how wonderful the Beer was here. The staff were also very amenable.

Kernel Bermondsey Bier-Traveller (36)

Jonathan had gone ahead to the next place – Brew by Numbers. He was in the queue. Richard had announced his arrival and gone straight there, he had a Beer.

Bermondsey Ale Trail Bier-Traveller (17)The queue was being marshalled by a Young Chap, but nobody appeared to be gaining entry. Inside was another queue, we heard. I tried to get to the door to clarify the rumours but the Young Jobsworth denied my sojourn. We were expected to queue to join a queue that nobody was monitoring inside? Sod-off! There is more Beer to be had, we don’t need the hassle.
Clive and The Ladies had gone ahead – Not to the Bottleshop – we were assured. Jonathan, Paul and Hector bypassed this and went straight to Anspach and Hobday. Then back to The Bottleshop to find it packed and everyone else in situ. So back to Anspach and HobdayOh The Grand Old Duke of York…
Anspach Bermondsey Bier-Traveller (1)Anspach Bermondsey Bier-Traveller (2)

The queue at Anspach and Hobday was minimal, as soon as Hector tasted the Beer he had Jonathan, still at the Bar, order more, and we got a bench. The rest of The Company were at The Bottleshop.  The India Pale Ale at 6.0% was good enough ot follow what we had enjoyed at Kernel.  As a Philospoher once said – There’s no demand for Strong, Pale Hoppy Ales.
Anspach Bermondsey Bier-Traveller (7)Anspach Bermondsey Bier-Traveller (12)

Eventually The Company was One and The Ladies were seated. Sour Dry Hop at 4.9% was calling, it had to be tried despite the lesser abv. Stunning! This was a Thin Geuze, the Lambic Flavours were there. More please!
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Anspach Bermondsey Bier-Traveller (17)Anspach Bermondsey Bier-Traveller (14)

We leave, they closed at 18.00, was it 18.00 already?
Further along Druid St with The Shard looming ominously, the last port of call, The Southwark Brewing Company.

Southwark Brewing Company Bier-Traveller (1)Southwark Brewing Company Bier-Traveller (2)

Southwark Brewing Company Bier-Traveller (5)Southwark Brewing Company Bier-Traveller (3)

Mein Host was quick to point out that they had Cask Beer, so in keeping with the CAMRA spirit, this had to be sampled. The Harvard American Pale Ale at 5.5% should surley have been better. The Citra Hops were not coming through. After Keg, and Lambic Keg in particular, the taste-buds were not registering anything special.
Southwark Brewing Company Bier-Traveller (17)Southwark Brewing Company Bier-Traveller (18)

We had a settee, a bench and a table, in fact there was more space for the public here in comfort than any place visited today. There was also a single toilet with a constant queue. Who asked if there was actually someone inside and opened the door to find…
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London Bridge train station was completely unknown to Hector before today. The Shard had been seen only in the distance. Here we were taking the train back to Crawley in half the time it took us to get here.
Bermondsey Ale Trail Bier-Traveller (32)Bermondsey Ale Trail Bier-Traveller (35)

Maggie, Robin and Jonathan called it a day. Craig, Yvonne, Clive and Hector took a taxi to Clive’s Local – The Downsman, but not for Bier, they sell Curry!
Brewery Shades Crawley Bier-Traveller (10)Brewery Shades Crawley Bier-Traveller (6)

Thereafter another taxi took us back to the Town Centre where Yvonne and Craig retired. Clive and Hector were still going strong. Dark Star’s Revelation at 5.7% was in keeping with what had been consumed earlier. Despite Copious Hoppy Beers and a Curry, the intensity of the Sacred Hop still shone through, astonishing. An excellent Ale.
Something Strange
Clive declared he – was stuffed – and could to put another thing in his body. Time for home, The Bluebell Railway awaits tomorrow.
Interesting Fact about The Bermondsey Beer Mile
Today Hector walked 13.4km. That is many miles.

The Pubs and Brewery Taps visited today:

Fourpure Brewery – 22 Bermondsey Trading Estate, Rotherhide New Road, SE16 3LL
Partizan Brewing : 8 Almond Street, SE16 3LR
Kernel Brewery : Arch 11 Dockley Road Industrial Estate, SE16 3SF
Brew by Numbers : 79 Enid Street, SE16 3RA
Anspach and Hobday Brewery : 118 Druid Street, SE1 2HH
Bottleshop : 118 Druid Street, SE1 2HH
Southwark Brewing Company : 46 Druid Street, London SE1 2EZ
The Downsman : Wakehurst Drive, Crawley RH10 6DH
Brewery Shades : 85 High St, Crawley, West Sussex RH10 1BA

Posted in Bermondsey - Southwark | 1 Comment

Partridge Green – The Partridge – The Source of Dark Star

Partridge Green Bier-Traveller (2)Craig and Yvonne announced some weeks ago that they were going to That London for a week. The Bermondsey Mile was mooted, a weekend in Crawley too. Hector signed up for the weekend courtesy of Mr. Stelios providing Flights at a Reasonable Price.
The plan this evening was for Clive to met Hector at Gatwick on his return from work whilst Maggie collected Craig and Yvonne from the Crawley Travelodge. A Flight Delay saw Maggie drive the rest to Gatwick. Hector was collected and off we sped south towards Horsham, Partridge Green was the destination, home of the Dark Star Brewery, and the Brewery Tap – The Partridge.
Clive had phoned earlier to establish the available Ales. There was no Revelation in the building he was told. American Pale Ale would have to suffice.

Partridge Green Bier-Traveller (4)Partridge Green Bier-Traveller (3)

At a modest 4.8% this was served Warm, not wonderful. We had come a long way to have this Ale at Source, a bit of a disappointment. Doris who was serving queried the Scottish banknote, we made sure the Pub had plenty by the time we left.
Partridge Green Bier-Traveller (7)Partridge Green Bier-Traveller (8)

Partridge Green Bier-Traveller (9)Partridge Green Bier-Traveller (6)

Robin and Jonathan made it eventually, by car, and bearing Stornoway Black Pudding. Maggie appears to be looking forward to sampling, the Black Pudding. We now had two drivers, and even more Scottish banknotes.  Maggie even managed to thrash Craog at Pool.  We must arrange for her to play Bernard.
Partridge Green Bier-Traveller (12)Partridge Green Bier-Traveller (15)

Then the American Pale Ale went off and Revelation at a much better 5.7% came on. So much for the previous information. This Ale was Fresh, Cool, Quaffable, the night dramatically improved.
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Partridge Green Bier-Traveller (18)There was a consensus that the place was a bit run down. Having been here once before in winter, there was a much better atmosphere. A good night, not a great one. And thanks to Maggie for being our driver.  I hope she enjoyed her tea.

The Brewery Tap visited today:

The Partridge : Church Rd., Partridge Green, Horsham, RH13 8GW

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Two Autumn Days in Katowice

Katowice Bier-Traveller (65)Katowice Bier-Traveller (61)

The approaches to Katowice were not inspiring. The City has suffered greatly from the 1960s, when Architects everywhere were on Substances. Eastern European Architecture is particularly Brutal, Utilitarian.

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The new, stylish, Shopping Mall at the Station gave way to a few streets of the Old, however as we headed east towards Rynek and Hotel Katowice the main square was similar to Helensburgh this year, dug up.

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Hotel Katowice looked the part, a Big Box. It turned out to be a very comfortable stay despite an underlying ambience of tobacco everywhere. Booking.com had offered an upgrade from a Double Room to a Suite for and extra couple of quid, appreciated. This was Comfort at Rock-Bottom Prices.

Katowice Bier-Traveller (40)The Breakfast Buffet Room was like something out of a Bad Spy Novel, we felt as if we were being watched. A Buffet. Eat whatever you want, in Eastern Europe? Who would have predicted that Twenty Five Years ago next month?
The Man from Bradford only has one line these days – Beerpubs.pl. As if this is the most perfect Website. It lists Bier outlets with Scores. The Scores do not really reflect the quality and range of Bier on offer. Joe, a fellow Glasgow CAMRA Member spoke highly of Biala Malpa,

Katowice Bier-Traveller (26)Katowice Bier-Traveller (32)

I would have my first Katowice Bier here. Meanwhile other Pubs were located. Kato had a handful of Taps and Dull Bier, Czech. Latajaca Swinia (Staromiejska 3 40-013 Katowice) was not revealing itself, two streets with one letter different in the middle.

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In the end it was more Coffee Café with Bier and closed for renovation. Crossing under the Railway we found Browariat which appeared according to Beerpubs.pl to suggest it was along the right lines. It was closed and would remain so this day.

C4 was at the next Railway underpass, the door was open. The Doris on a settee knew nothing. Nobody was there, Bier was not planned this early, however the Taps had Polish Promise.
Katowice Bier-Traveller (20)There was Coffee with Plum-cake, Excellent. We had seen what few streets the Stare Miasto of Katowice had to offer. Is this not why Kenneth and Hector left Warszava after Two Hours in 1992? Katowice had Biala Malpa, The White Monkey.
Hadra (Pracovnia Piwa) at 5.9% appeared to have the Pedigree. The style was IPA, but there was no serious Hop Hit. There was nothing for it – a Bottle of Rowing Jack please.

*

*

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Dinner – Krysztalowa
Hector chose Krysztalowa, a Traditional Polish Restaurant for this evening’s meal. The Venue was like something from a time long past. With copious staff, two huge rooms, and a hush-ambiance, it was the sort of place where wearing a t-shirt one might feel under-dressed. However, the Best Restaurants never pass comment.
Black Pudding Dumplings were on the Menu. I had to have them. So was Golombki, the First Polish Dish I ever tasted in the early 1960s. I had to have both. I persuaded Marg that we should share a Dumpling Starter. Marg ordered Ribs with…
We sat for ages, this was a place – To Dine – nobody was in a hurry. Other tables were occupied, there was no sound of conversation, Hush.
The Waiter had spoken efficient English, so when Two Plates of Dumplings were presented, em… At £2.40 a Portion we were hardly going to make a fuss. The Dumplings were Excellent, well the First Four, the Fifth… There were Eight. Marg and I both stopped at Five each. We were offered a Doggy Bag.
I have never seen such large servings of Glombki, Two Large Rolls of Cabbage Leaves stuffed with Ground Meat and Rice, topped with Home-made Tomato Soup served separately. Slowly, methodically, I managed most.
katowice-krysztalowa-bier-traveller-8Across the table Marg had a Rack of Ribs, Two Racks, one ended up on my plate, temporarily. Served on a Wooden Board with Pan-fried Potatoes, a Pear?, Sauce, a Modest Snack, and huge Side of Sauerkraut. She was defeated before she started. We hate wasting food, this was excessive. Again, Doggy Bags were offered. The staff were concerned that we did not like the food. The food was Traditional, Wonderful, be careful. The Bill? Small.

After dinner we walked along the main drag past Kato on the east side of Rynek. Browariat was definitely closed, forever? C4 was open, but we knew that already. Two Guys were standing at the Bar. Before I had a chance to order we were engaged
in conversation. What are you doing in Katowice? Before I had settled on my Bier the Barman had Pendragon playing on their system. Nice touch. He was also surprised to hear that Browariat was closed. Pinta’s Oki Doki at 4.3%, and in a Bottle, was recommended by the Barman as their best candidate for a Hector Bier. I had tried their Draft Bock, too Sweet.
The Locals were interested in the recent Scottish Vote on Independence. The majority of Folk I have met have expressed a sense of relief that we did not break away from England. Next time.
The entire Pendragon album – Not of this World – was played, Marg went exploring. C4 is quite a Labyrinth. Not the most Gemuchtlicht of premises, but it does sell Bier you are not going to find in Bog Standard Polish Pubs. By now I was considering Katowice for the stop-off next summer between Warszawa and Krakow. I need another Venue, Biala Malpa and C4 might not carry off a day alone. More research needed.

Pendragon Day
Katowice Bier-Traveller (11)Taking the alternative direction from the Hotel Katowice, Marg and Hector walked up towards the large Indoor Arena of which the people of Katowice are very proud. Pendragon were not playing here but at the Rialto. From there we walked along towards the remnants of the Silesian Mining Industry. This took us away from the Town Centre but walking back through the University area took us to the First Curry Experience of the day, a Snack.
The fabled Browariat was found in daylight, still no sign of life. Kato (Mariacka 13 40-014 Katowice)  and Mad Mick’s (Warszawska 13 40-008 Katowice)   were inspected but sold only Mainstream Bier.
Walking in the direction of the Town Centre Marg recognised Clive Nolan, Keyboard player with Pendragon (and Arena). Clive and Co. were heading towards their hotel, why the Tour Bus did not drop then off here puzzled. Time to go and see what is happening.
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Walking boldly into the Rialto, Nick Barrett was busy at a laptop. Not the warmest of welcomes. We saw the equipment being erected on the stage. At the door, chatting to to someone unknown was a very familiar face – Gary Chandler – of Jadis who would play his own material as Support this evening, but solo. We waited. I introduced myself and recalled the days of Rotherham. We’ll see you tonight, but you’ll see us in Glasgow…
Heading past Biala Malpa, for the moment, we ended up at a Czech Bar – Hospoda. We would be the only customers. I had to try a new Czech Piwo. Plata was an OK yellow, fizzy Bier with a Sweet Aftertaste. The palate demands so much more these days.
katowice-biala-malpa-bier-traveller-15We had to pass Biala Malpa, it would have been rude not to enter. McFarmer, Browar-Reden, Polska was and Amber Ale with serious American Hops. At 6.9%, the going rate of Polish Bier.
There had to be a Proper Curry House visit this evening, the venue closest to the Rialto was chosen. Which takes us to the main reason why Marg and Hector were in Poland this week – Pendragon!

The Gig finished promptly, the Band had to travel to their next destination, sharply. Going back to C4 or Biala Malpa was an option. Let’s give Browariat another chance.

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What a decision. We were stared at as we entered, we were friends when we departed. Mein Host was introduced to us by the first Chap who spoke to us. The Draught Bier Range was not that instantly grabbing, only four taps.  However it was an opperchancity to try my first ever Deutsche Pale Ale from Bayerisch. At 5.5% it sort of worked, but was not life changing. Mein Host then insisted Marg try a Bier… something Very Special in a Very Small Glass, and undisclosed. Marg played along.

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Bottled Camba Weisse from a new Bayern Brewery followed. It’s not often I drink Weizen these days. There is a tendency to gag unless it is something with Big Bananas this had not. Mein Host recommended I sample my first ever Bermondsey Bier – Partizan Pale Ale. At 4.9%, this was chosen over the more demanding IPA at 6.9%. Good Bier, but Bottled and expensive for Poland. Just the Five US Hops in the IPA, I wished it had been earlier. Mein Host was proud to have these.
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By now I knew there had to be a night in Katowice next summer. Cards were exchanged, I was even given a Weissebier Glass as a Souvenir, just what I needed…
We’ll be back, July 30th, 2015.

Four Pubs and two Restaurants visited in in Katowice

Biala Malpa  –  3 Maja 38 40-097 Katowice
Browariat  –  Francuska 11 40-015 Katowice
C4  –Wojewódzka 26a 40-026 Katowice (Closed, now a Rum Bar)
Hospoda  –  Gliwicka 6/1 40-079 Katowice

Krysztalowa  –  ul Warszwawska 5 Katowice

Buddha  –  ul Drzmaly 9, 40-059, Katowice

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Two Autumn Days in Kraków

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This being Hector’s fourth visit to Kraków, maybe it is time to write another Blog. The weekend was spent in Northumbria, a first. The Castles of Alnwick, Lindisfarne, Bamburgh and Eyemouth were all perused, Kraków has a Castle too. The flight was from Newcastle, at the time of booking the prices from Edinburgh were prohibitive, Newcastle was not cheap but the time out, Monday afternoon was perfect. The evening flight on Friday back also suited, it would give us time to get from Katowice to Kraków. Katowice? The real reason for this trip was too see Pendragon perform in Katowice, supported by Gary Chandler of Jadis. It was only a few weeks ago I discovered why the flights were priced above the norm, a football match in WarszawaPolska v Scotland, tomorrow.

Rather than wait about for a bus, we had a taxi arranged to pick us up at Kraków Airport and whisk us straight to Boutique Hotel David in Kazimierz. We have stayed there before, it suits our purposes, in the heart of Kazimierz and Marg knows where she lives.

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Hotel David is a few steps from the Main Square of Kazimierz, The Jewish Quarter. Stepping through here Hector was off in search of Szynk. My memory was that it was where two roads met at and angle, we were in a grid. A couple of streets West and there it was. The place where everyone except Hector had wonderful Food last year, tonight was my night.

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The Bier range is Bog Standard Polish Eurofizz, not the Bier I was here to Savour. Bring on the Black Pudding Dumplings. Dumplings were on the Menu, no Black Pudding. I ordered the meat Dumplings, Marg went for Beetroot Soup, then Dessert. VDT!

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By reasoned deduction, this place has changed hands since our last visit. Gone are the Elderly Couple who ran it, the atmosphere, the décor was simpler. Szynk no more? For Food fine, for Bier – go elsewhere. The BeerGallery Kazimierz  is very close, or better still Omerta. Later.

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Hector had other plans. Walking further West I was astounded to find myself at the end of Jozefa, twenty metres from Strefa Piwa, still my favourite Kraków Pub, open evenings only. Rowing Jack (Ale Browar) was the objective, it wasn’t on. The Barman assured me there were other Biers. From the same Brewery comes Hop Head at 5.6%. The Hops were there, the Bier was Dry, it was from the same Stable but it was not Rowing Jack. Tomorrow, if it’s available at this time of year the House of Beer in Stare Miasto (Old Town) may have it.

Krakow Oct2014 Bier-Traveller (35)The Ceiling in Strefa Piwa remains a Curiosity. Even Marg was asking about Bier styles, but then she has been to a fair number of Bier Sources and knows what The Chaps like.  Omerta  called.

A few blocks East, and seconds from the Hotel David, you get it now, lies Omerta, Two Pubs in One. White AIPA at 6.6% and brewed by Bribant was a New Bier and a New Brewery for Hector. The Cascade Hops were in the face, Facial Contortions were the name of the game. The Chaps would love this. Marg knows her way home. Hector had spotted a Bier by another previously unknown Polish Brewery – Doctor Brew – alas a bell rang. It was nearing midnight, I have no idea about closing time here, I have tended to start here and head to Strefa Piwa. Tomorrow is another day.

 Most certainly it is

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The Buffet Breakfast at Hotel David has Continental, Cooked and various Jewish/Polish Delicacies on offer. Marg had Cooked, Hector ate Minimally, Curry-Heute at Ganesh was the plan. Walking into the Old Town via the West end of Kazimierz takes yKrakow Oct2014 Bier-Traveller (7)ou past the Castle, a more interesting walk than going up the east side. No Market today, a few shops were examined, not by Hector, I was a Spectator. Camelot, a Café on Tomaszu is Marg’s Favourite Venue in Stare Miasto.

This is quite a street, it is also the site of Ganesh, the Curry House, a Milk Bar where I had my first ever Polish Dumplings, a French Café which Marg also likes, The Beer Gallery specialising in Belgian Beer and The House of Beer. At Camelot Hector even sampled Yoghurt with Fruits of the Forest, Bitter or what? Marg was in her element, I know how to keep a Lady amused. Coffee, Cake.

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Well the Ganesh Curry House was nearby and open. Thereafter we headed East, it was just after 14.00, The House of Beer  should be open. Marg convinced me it had gone, we were a block too soon. The Beer Gallery and House of Beer are on opposite sides of the street. There was no Rowing Jack. Doctor Brew’s Summer Ale (abv indeterminate) was in the place of the Most Venerable Polish Bier. With American Hops it did the job, and more.

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Krakow Oct2014 Bier-Traveller (53)The Man from Bradford has been mentioning a new Multi-Tap Bier House called Multi Qlti of late. We had located it earlier and so the march across Ryneck was brief to the West side of Stare Miasto. This is an upstairs Venue,  a converted apartment as far as I could tell. Young Chaps staffed the Bar, we were the First Customers. Marg ordered a Soft Drink and chose the seat. I studied the Board.  Dismissing all of the Bier styles I didn’t want I was left with another untied Bier by Ale Browar who of course make Rowing Jack. Hop Sasa PIPA at 5.0% was initially too sweet after the Summer Ale, but calmed down.

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We walked out of the first restaurant we entered in the heart of Kazimierz. One Doris was serving the entire Restaurant, when we realised how many people had Menus, we went next door to a more Traditional Polish Restaurant. Restauracja Bombonierka was nether chosen for its name or address. It turned out to be Excellent. That Marg had Tiramasu for Dessert meant the Game had started by the time we departed.

There was no problem finding the Scotland Match on TV this evening despite the fact we were in a foreign land. Moment had seats, a TV, and Paulaner Weizen (München, Bayern) vom Fass, an appropriate Bier to consume in Poland watching Scotland. That the Poles thrashed the World Cup Winners last weekend made the prospect of a Scottish Victory all the more remote.

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The Poles went one up as we took our seats. The equaliser came soon after, a Cheer from the Two Foreigners, and looks from everyone else. When Scotland took the lead there was an even louder Cheer. Some left. Marg knew the Poles would equalise, they did. Still, a Draw away from Home, against the team who were first to beat the Germans after Brasil 2014.

Time for Better Bier

2014-10-13 23.10.45Back to Omerta, Doctor Brew’s Cascade at 5.5% was waiting. With the Classic US Hops, this Amber-Gold Ale was easily the Best Ale consumed on this trip so far. This is one to shout about when Hector gets home.

We were joined by a Yorkshireman who spotted the G-RAF t-shirt with the CAMRA Logo. We chatted about, well everything. He was surprised we were happy with the Draw. The Stats showed how much Scotland had dominated. Am I really writing these words? Both us Chaps were enjoying the Cascade, however the rest of his company had made a beeline to the Alternative Bar in the other room with Non-Polish Bier on offer.

And so that was Hector’s Final Ale of this Trip, in Kraków .

The  Cafes, Restaurant and Pubs visited:

Omerta

Strefa Piwa  –  Józefa 6, 31-056 Kraków

House of Beer

Szynk

Multi Qlti  –  Ul. Szewska 21, Kraków,  31-009

Restauracja Bombonierka   –  Beera Meisselsa 24, Kraków 30-001

Moment Resto Bar and Music Cafe  –  Józefa 26, 31-056,  Kraków

Cafe Camelot  –  ul. Sw. Tomasza 17,  31-022, Kraków

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Hector Bounces Back – Day 6 – Wuppertal, Duisburg & Düsseldorf

Greggs Baker Hector Bounces Back Bier-Traveller (1)The day began with Curry-Heute at Almas Indisches Spezialitätenrestaurant. As promised, Kenny was the Co-Diner, Quality Curry. Was that a Greggs Baker we passed? The timing was perfect for the 13.00 Rendezvous at the Hauptbahnhof, except for Dr. Stan who was stuck in roadworks. Strange, he wasn’t driving.

Neil was having a quiet day, Kenny went off in search of a football ticket and would spend the day also in his own company. Space required.

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The Bier-Travelling Four headed to Wuppertal and climbed up to the Schwebebahn platform to take the famous Danglebahn to Barmen. The fun in Wuppertal is riding on the World’s first and only suspended monorail which is part of the Municipal Transport System. Why doesn’t someone build this at the end of Glasgow Airport’s runway and connect the train line to the terminal?

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The Wuppertaler Brauhaus has been visited on a handful of occasions. The Bon Accord Trip was the last time Hector, Dr. Stan and Steve were here together, a photo adorned the walls of said establishment for some years. A converted swimming pool, the Bar area has been changed since last time, why? This area was closed off so we sat outside.

Finally, t-shirts are for sale.  How much?  No thanks.  I have the – Tie – , really.

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The Bier here is not the best, the Yeast is predominant, the German Microbrewery Flavour. The Helles at 4.8% was the choice today, Dr. Stan as ever tried something different. The Helles, unfiltered was drinkable, but still didn’t really grab this commentator. Never mind, we get to back on the Danglebahn.

Back to Düsseldorf, it was approaching early evening, Steve decided it was his turn to seek – Space. The Three jumped another train up to Duisburg. Jonathan and Dr. Stan selected a Tram from the U Bahn Selection, a crazy layout this station. As ever, the Brewery of Choice was beside a place of worship.

Webster Brauhaus Hector Bounces Back Bier-Traveller (1)Webster sells Blond and Braun Biers, however there are two boards, each advertising something different. The Pale Ale was first up. Here was a splendid Hoppy Ale, unlike anything I have tasted in Deutschland. This was more-ish, and so more was had. The other board quoted the availability of a Weizen. Strange, the Webster Website mentions neither of these Biers. The Weizen at 5.2% had serious Bananas, most enjoyable. It takes a very good Weissbier to impress Hector these days.

Webster do Festbier and a Maibock too. This Brauhaus is now firmly on the Hector Radar.

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Meanwhile to the rear of the House, the brewing process was under-way. The serving Staff showed good humour, hence the photo. The Three were having a Memorable Bier Expereince, The Other Three were missing out. We could not have half of The Company raving about Duisburg, there was a resolve, to return tomorrow.

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Whose idea was it to Tram all the way back to Düsseldorf? The Penistone Line came to mind, never again.

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Hector Bounces Back Day6 Dusseldorf Bier-Traveller (1)The nightcap at Schumacher was necessary. Steve and Kenny must have felt the same need. There was talk of a Kebab. Kebab? No way. Frikadellen please.

The Brauhaus visited today:

Wuppertaler Brauhaus – Kleine Flurstraße 5, 42275, Wuppertal

Brauhaus Webster – Dellplatz 14, 47051, Duisburg

Schumacher – Oststraße 123, 40210, Düsseldorf

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