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Day 3 – The Road to Jaipur, via Patan

Posted on March 29, 2016 by Hector

Our Company Guide had mentioned more than once that the journey from New Delhi to Jaipur would take some seven hours. This involved a two hour detour, to reach our Lunch Stop at Patan, spurious. Let’s hope it’s worth it – passed through Hector’s mind.
Leaving the Maidens Hotel in the north of New Delhi, it took over an hour to exit the city to the south-west, crossing the State Border into Haryana at Gurgaon. As ever, the Rush Hour saw nobody going anywhere quick. Somehow the traffic keeps moving, except when it’s at a standstill.

At the border, three things happened. Firstly Raj, the Driver’s Assistant, had to cross a seven lane highway to pay the local road tax. Next, he was permitted to unravel the curtains which had been wrapped around the fans. Curtains are not permitted in vehicles in New Delhi. Finally we saw our first roaming cows, again New Delhi does not tolerate this.

Bhupi, our Local Guide, – explained how – his favourite expression, Gurgaon was but fields twenty years ago. The skyscrapers house the offices of Multinationals. It is from here that those annoying phone-calls originate. Ironically, Vodafone have been trying to contact me from their Rotherham base for the last couple of days. I cannot wait to tell them I’m in India.

Our exit road from the highway towards Patan meant our Driver had to block the entire road to make a U-turn. Hairy, then we encountered flock after herd of animals. Our detour would take longer.
The Replacement Samsung was able to keep Hector in touch of where he was. Although 4G is advertised everywhere, t’Internet was always slow, but did exist even in such a remote location as we currently found ourselves. Arriving at Patan we had to alight from the Bus. For reasons known to our Tour Company, we reached the Patan Mahal by Camel-pulled Carts, though it was the School Bus which took us back to our own Coach.

We were regarded as Celebrities as our Camel Train was paraded through the streets. The youngest children were already on the streets waving. The School Bus dropped off its load, older children joined the fun. Bhupi conjured up a Jeep.

Photos galore were taken, of course one cannot see the Cart on which one is travelling, by now taking photos of our Fellow Travellers was becoming comfortable.

After the sanitised view of India one sees mostly in New Dehli, this was Indian Life approaching its most basic, electricity was not a problem, one could spend time wondering about the plumbing. Day 3 and nobody has succumbed.

Lunch at the Patan Mahal was Excellent. As ever, the detail is related elsewhere.
Patan has hills, New Delhi is on a flat plain, as we approached Jaipur the relief remained mountainous. Jaipur would be a different experience. Three nights at the Shahpura House Hotel awaited.

Narendra, our Driver

India Trip 2016 – Day 4 – Jaipur, Rajahstan – A Wonderful Day: A Fort, A Carpet, a Bier

Posted in Patan, Rajahstan | 1 Comment

Hector’s India Trip – A Day in New Delhi

Posted on March 28, 2016 by Hector

The wake up call at 07.00 confirmed our UK Guide’s comment – This is not a holiday but more of a trek. The itinerary is designed to maximise the number of possible sites/sights visited. Four major attractions awaited us today, without our private Bus, Driver – Narendra, his assistant – Raj, our Local Guide – Bhupi, and our Tour Company Guide – Rosemary, we would have taken twice, even three times as long to cover these.
Hector has decided not to have Indian Food for Breakfast until such times the stomach proves all is well. Fresh Fruit, Yoghurt and Eggs were considered safe. Salads et al that may have been washed in tap water were avoided. After contact with – anything – antibacterial hand gel was employed.

Departing from the Maidens Hotel at 08.00 we started to recognise some of the routes, past Old Delhi, the India Gate towards our first stop of the day – Qutab Minar. We knew nothing of this, to say we were impressed was an understatement, this Minaret and accompanying Ruins. To get the light we had to go beyond the equally impressive Gate. A Security Chap was happy to show us – The Perfect Spot – for photos, and was happy to take the two of us together, for a gratuity, of course.

Everyone back on the bus…

Humayun’s Tomb was next. It didn’t take much wit to appreciate the significance of this building. Based on the Islamic Architectural – Four – this was the building that inspired the Taj Mahal at Agra. By this time we were recognising our Group Members and slowly starting to ask names. This also established that we could ask folk to take Couples’ Photos.

The Government Buildings were driven past, twice, so that Photo Opperchancities were given to those sitting on each side of the Bus. We were not permitted to stop, Indian Security. The India Gate was passed again, now we were informed that this is a Memorial to the Fallen in WW1. Again, this was a drive past.

Lunch
Breakfast was a long time ago, Dinner would be a while, Hector had worked up an appetite, but what was on the agenda? Lunch stops were expected, Hector did not know that he would be presented with a choice of Restaurants, it was time for Hector’s first a la carte Indian Curry, in India. The visit to the Gulati Restaurant is covered on Curry-Heute.com.

Sikh Temples are famous throughout the world for feeding all those who turn up at the kitchen. It felt somewhat ironic that having just paid out for Lunch, we were then taken to the Bangla Sahib Gurudwara, the largest Sikh Temple in New Dehli.

We were marched past the Hawkers and taken to an anteroom to prepare our clothing. We had been advised that shorts were not permitted, everyone but Hector was wearing long trousers or skirts. Out came the Longs, in this heat. Today it was in the high 30s°C. Appropriate Headgear had to be adorned, yesterday it was Hector in a skirt, today, the Ageing Rock Star.

Feet had to be bathed on entry, the stone slabs were super hot in the sunshine. Music was being blasted loudly, as we entered the Temple we found The Source. Three Chaps were performing adjacent to the area which was the focus of prayer. There was some serious praying by people of all ages.
Gold, lots of Gold. An obscene amount of Gold adorned the walls, and no photos permitted. The Hector inside such a building comes as a surprise. I prefer the External Architecture of such constructions, the Interiors hold little attraction, I find no meaning to what takes place therein. However, as the exit was far from the entrance, one had to stay with the Group. The surrounding waters purport to have healing properties, so it goes.

As we walked towards the Dining Room and Kitchen, the scale of how many were being fed became apparent. Huge Room was four fifths full, we were invited to join the line. Anyone, Everyone is welcome to eat, the Food is given, for free. Benefactors pay for the Food. An army of women give of their time to prepare the Food, Chaps distribute it without comment or prejudice. This will be lasting memory of this Trip, and I didn’t get to sample the Daal and Chapattis on offer.
In addition to this is a queue for Food to take into the Temple, Marg must have been hungry…

What could follow this?

Another view of the India Gate and we took a side street. The Agrasen Ki Baoli Stepwell was our final stop of the day. A step well? One should read Websites like this and be better advised as to what one has signed up for.
Behind a wall, a few metres from the Bus we encountered a few steps, a step well? Then, behold! I could never have imagined this. The thought of Hector going down to the water’s edge and back up these stairs was cast aside. Marg descended, forgot to turn around for a photo, and climbed back up. She may have been concerned about the proximity of bats. That was Marg’s exercise for the day, Hector’s would be later.

A Quiet Night Inn
One of our Group, Adrian had gone exploring around the Maidens Hotel on arrival yesterday. There was a Bar, 1Up, a few hundred metres away. Half of The Group went for Bier at an affordable price as soon as we returned to the Hotel. Not Hector, he was going swimming, in t’pool.
The sun was about thirty minutes from the horizon when I jumped into the, far too cold for me, water. Marg insisted I would acclimatise. Five minutes later I was out in the warmth. As soon as the sun disappeared, indoors, a snooze.

The Curzon Room’s a la carte Menu had to be tried. We had Pasta in mind. The Maitre d’ had other ideas. As ever, Curry-Heute covers the Food.

By the time we left the Hotel for 1Up, everyone else was back. Undaunted, Hector would have his Bier, Kingfisher again. Marg had Baileys, again no ice. Why they thought that Techno-Musik was appropriate who knows.

The Itinerary for tomorrow had been put under our door, a seven hour journey to Jaipur? Time for bed.

The Hotel and Bar visited today:

Maidens Hotel

1Up

India Trip 2016 – Day 3 – The Road to Jaipur, via Patan

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Hector’s 2016 India Trip starts here

Posted on March 27, 2016 by Hector

The journey from Glasgow to New Delhi cannot be completed with one flight. Having refused to pay the rip-off fee the Travel Company wanted for the Glasgow to London Heathrow leg, little did I know that this meant Travel Insurance to cover the connecting flight was pretty much out the window. In future we stay over in the South East, or better still, avoid London airports altogether.
The Landside of Heathrow Terminal 4 is not acceptable. Two cafes to cater for all, three ATMs, only one which worked. One positive was that we were greeted by an Agent from our Travel Company and after we had checked in, we were introduced to the Lady who would be our Guide for the entire trip. Indian Visas are expensive, imagine the horror when the Jet Airways person checking us in found errors in both Visas. Whatever was wrong, she was able to fix online, just as well.
When an eight and a half hour flight is delayed by an hour, one just has to grin and bear it. If the situation is worse on the return, we miss our connecting flight, no come back. At least the In-flight Movies kept The Hector amused, the In-flight Meal did even more. Curry on a ‘plane, a first.
On arrival at New Delhi’s Indira Gandhi Airport, one cannot help but be impressed, it is Big and Shiny, officially The World’s #1. The Chaps on the ‘plane had given us all a Customs Declaration Form to complete before Landing, but not a Landing Card. Go to the back of the queue. Finally,the Visas were checked all was well, but –
What do you think of our airport?
Wonderful, way better than Heathrow Terminal 4.
And so we were in, almost, collect the bags, meet Rep Rosemary, try and find an ATM… no chance before clearing customs, then no time. We arrived at the Maidens Hotel ninety odd minutes later, having been driven from the south-west of New Delhi, past Delhi to places north. Time to check in, have something to eat on the Terrace then assemble for our first outing. Not everyone made it… sleep, later.

Bhupi, our Local Guide was introduced to us, Two Guides. Retracing ground we had covered en route to the Hotel, we were taken to the edge of Delhi, the original core, to visit Jama Masjid, one of the largest Mosques in India. We had been warned about having to part with our shoes and cover up. Ladies were given enough cloth to cover themselves, Chaps had to wear makeshift skirts. A Young Girl joined me

whilst Marg set up the ritual photo, she was disappointed, Hector has a heart of stone. We were warned not to give to Children money; it distracts them from going to school, and the Mafia as featured in Slumdog Millionaire continue. On a Sunday the place was full of kids. The uneven ground, the hot flagstones, even birdseed made for discomfort underfoot. Hector was glad to find his sandals waiting at the gate.
As we assembled outside the gate, a security Chap asked Marg if a young girl could have her photograph taken with her. Assuming a scam, this was declined. However, Bhupi informed us that this would be a feature of our Trip. People from the Villages do not see Tourists, especially Whites, Young Women and Girls love to have their photos taken with the Ladies.

Raj Ghat is public park in northern New Delhi, here is the Samadhi, or Gandhi’s cremation site, the final part of today’s excursion. Gandhi’s House had been postponed until our Delhi return due to our late arrival. As ever, Marg was as interested, perhaps more, in the wildlife. Kites and Chipmunks made her day.

There was little time to spare before Dinner. What could The Hector possibly expect for Dinner in India. The Buffet was Satisfactory rather than – Wow. The Couple we had dined with, Allan and Allison, joined us for Drinks in the Bar. The small Bar was busy, over-spill into the corridor. The Twenty Twenty Cricket was on TV, live from just down the road, literally. European Enthusiasts sat with The Locals, the latter were rowdy then joyful when India beat Australia.
Wine was over £25.00 both in the Garden Terrace Restaurant and in the Bar, no thank you. Kingfisher was the only Bier Hector could contemplate. Kingfisher Ultra was new, so had to be sampled. It’s a 5% Kingfisher, Cold, Yellow and Fizzy. Marg had Baileys, no Ice, one cannot trust the Water. Two Rounds, over £20.00. This is what happens when one is on a Tour, the Tour Company make a killing on the Hotel Rate with their Block Bookings. The Hotels are able to offer Food such that Economies of Scale guarantee their investment, meanwhile the Customer is taken prisoner. There must be somewhere else Hector can go for a Bier. Taxi? Knackered, bedtime.

The Hotel visited today:

Maidens Hotel

India Trip 2016 – Day 2 –Hector’s India Trip – A Day in New Delhi

Posted in New Delhi | 1 Comment

Buttenheim – The Löwenbräu Bockbier Tapping 2015

Posted on November 6, 2015 by Hector

As the Bamberg Blog entries have recorded, Hector is no stranger to Bamberg and Bockbier. However, due to the restraints of employment, only those Bocks which had been tapped by Mid-October were sampled, though Dr. Stan and Hector did return from Löwenbräu Buttenheim with Bottles of Bock before the Tapping, once upon a time. The Company basically put the visit back to November to cover more Bocks. Hector is here!
Dr. Stan took the morning ICE from Dusseldorf to Wurzburg transferring to Local Trains via Bamberg to Buttenheim. It is a 1.4km walk from the so-called Buttemheim Bahnhof to the the actual town, uphill, pulling the luggage.

Arriving at Hotel am Markt which is across the road from the St. Georgen Brauhaus, Hector’s room key was on a hook outside. Self Check-in at a new level. Jim, Aileen had already checked in with Hansi at the Löwenbräu Gaststätte, Dr. Stan and another Alan were at the Schloss Landhotel also along the street. Jonathan would arrive by Chariot later.

Entering the Gaststätte every table in the main room was full, Hansi was at the rear, he recognised me immediately, for once, and said – Am Rechts. We had a table booked in the Dining Room for later, Hector ordered Kellerbier, before it had arrived Jim, Aileen and Alan had joined me, Dr. Stan arrived moments later. We then moved to the table we had booked – Hansi. Let the records show that Hector was the only person at the Festival who was appropriately dressed.

The Tapping was scheduled for 18.00, there were no Fireworks, no Klaxon. Having forced down Deutsche Cuisine it was time to move to the Festival Site.
As the Germans do so well, the courtyard in front of the Brewery had been transformed into temporary Village. A Bier Stall was outside selling – Other Drinks. We entered the Zelt to the strains of Musik, the Bock was flowing, every table was booked, the majority occupied. The Bockbier was taken outside.

Outside in November

Hector was warned it could be cold here in November. Hector was prepared.

Three weeks ago in Polska, Hector was frozen, since then the temperature across Western Europe has been unseasonably high. The Fleece was removed, Jonathan and Hector were in short sleeves. The adjacent Braziers proved to be most efficient.
The Bockbier

There is a fear that – Sweet – could be the Palate’s Reaction to tasting Bockbier. Mahrs and Keesman have been brewing increasingly sweet Brews in recent years. That served this evening lived up to the expectation which had us assembled here. Dangerously easy to Supp, it was.
In time, those who had to take the last Train to Forchheim, Hirschaid, Eggolsheim, and Bamberg were disappearing, the joy of being Resident. We moved indoors. The Fest continued.

The Musik Man had played non-stop. With the required technology at his disposal he could pay virtually anything. The Replacement Samsung was put put to use, a large font. Smoke on the Water was held up, success Sierra Madre? He asked the remaining Crowd, they – Booed! Half an hour later he played Sierra Madre, the Crowd were on the benches, as they should be.

And then there were Two

But, not before we were joined by some Young Chaps who were out way past their bedtimes.

No surprises for guessing that Jonathan and Hector were almost Last Men Out. The last Photo was timed at 02.43. Taxi home, oh, no need. Jonathan and Hector have a tendency to be – Last Out – tonight Jonathan was most certainly – Last In.

The Tapping in 2016 will be on Friday, November 4

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Praha – The Fourth and Final Day of Prague 2015

Posted on November 1, 2015 by Hector

The fourth and final day of this Prague Trip saw Hector doing his own thing. With an evening flight back to Glasgow, there was the Opperchancity to take things easy after the Educational Excess of the past two days.

Tram 9 took Hector to Hlvani Nadrazi where the luggage was abandoned for a few hours. The same number of Tram took me on to Lipanska, how many times have I used this stop in the last few days? Nearby Pivo a Parek has been done, twice. Mailsi – Pakistani Restaurant was the attraction, a venue I shall certainly return to.

Tram 9 took Hector somewhere near the Vltava, time to be a Tourist. The Charles Bridge had to be crossed, it’s what one does. For many this results in a walk up the hill to the Castle, for Hector the objective was a Bar-Restauarant I have been visiting since the earliest Trips to Praha.

U Glaubicu sells Pilsner Urquell, as Traditional a Pivo as can be. At a modest 4.4%, a much lower abv than one would look for these days, but appropriate for my purposes today. Too sweet by far, it was only after I had ordered I remembered that the Unfiltered version was also sold here. The ashtrays on the table were also an annoyance. As I recall, the rooms to the rear are non-smoking.

Downhill for a change from Lipanska lies U Slovanske Lipy, a Pub which had been recommended by The Man from Bradford. With Ten Taps, enough to be considered a Multi Tap venue.

Lobkowicz – Pale Ale – at 4.4% was a gentle start to the day. Dark Gold, dry, some Hop flavour was noticeable, but had so much better in the last two days. The place was quiet, three other customers, as I left there were none.

A Trip which ends with a whimper, not a bang.

The Bars visited today:

Pivnice U Glaubicu – Malostranské námestí 266/5, Praha 1 – Malá Strana

U Slovanske Lipy – Tachovské namestí 288/6, Praha 3 – Žižkov

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Praha – A Second Day with Fred Waltman

Posted on October 31, 2015 by Hector

Once again, Hector was in the Curry House when Fred Waltman texted to arrange today’s rendezvous. I would arrive at Pivovar Narodni to greet diminished numbers and just I time to sample the dregs of the Tasters. Under their own brand name of Czech Lion I cannot say the Bier impressed, maybe next time I’ll do a proper review.

Fred wished to correct yesterday’s oversight and so it the Ubiquitous Tram 9 to Lipanska once more and a return for Hector at least to Pivo a Parek. Once again the place was quiet this early in the afternoon.

Velkopraze Pivo – Velkopezske – at 12° was Gold, unfiltered, as sweet as yesterday’s here….buttery. Diacytl is the term Fred uses to classify Bier when it turns out this way, an expression Hector must surely adopt.

A couple of blocks away lies U Kurelu, a rather impressive Bar in terms of layout and atmosphere but only four Biers. Two of these were from a bygone age, this left Light or Dark. Hector took the Opperchancity to enjoy the Malesov IPA at 5.3% (14°) which was had yesterday at Kulovy Blesk.

The location of U Kurelu makes a perfect Pub Crawl back over the hill to Jirihoz Podebrad, via U Sadu if one wished. Here one would be at BeerGeek once again, but not today, we had more new venues to visit.

Pivoteka Illegal Beer is off Zitna, three blocks behind Novmetsky Pivovar. Hector was back in familiar territory. We walked through the Chic Bar area to the more traditional room adjacent. There was five Taps and so Fred ordered a sample of each. The Waitress was particularly charming, she may not have experienced this Methodical Approach to Bier Sampling before.

Bad Flash – Hora – IPA at 14°was Hector’s Pivo of choice. There was a sense of Hops, but not as intense as other Bier had on this trip. This does not say much for the Lobec IPA at the same strength.

Almost around the corner, and on a side street up from Vodickova, again a reference to Novemtsky Pivovar for location, lies Jama named after the said side street. This is a seriously trendy Bar, the place was jumping, there was not much chance of a seat.

Vysojy Chlumec – Fly Cloud IPA – at 14° was my first Bier at Jama. Amber, nothing special to note but was sold in smaller glasses. The abv was not apparent at the time of serving, it was a Bier one could do damage with. Zemsky Pivovar – Colorado Pale Ale – at 5.4% was the Pivo of the Day, Bier of The Trip possibly. This was it, the Pivo I had been searching for. Dark Gold, with Citra, Cascade, Centennial, and Simcoe Hops, a Perfect Bier. I had another.

The Company was wilting, they had started earlier, the Chicken Wings had by some back in U Kurelu were wearing off. I bade my newfound Bier Colleagues farewell. This was a Bar to note, easy to locate, get here earlier next time.

It was just after 21.00, Hector could have stayed here, but to stand, uncomfortable, one drinks too quickly on one’s feet. I was minutes from one of Prague’s Oldest and most Traditional Pivovar, I hadn’t been in years.

U Fleku is not liked by all, but this is hardly the height of the Tourist Season The Pivo, the Dark Lager at 4.5% is the same as first experienced back in 1992, it was considered – Sweet – back then, so no surprises. This was a fine night cap and the overall experience was pleasant. I have never seen the place so quiet. Everyone else was in the back Beer-hall where the cabaret was still going on. Someday I’ll get to this, maybe not.

Back to Mala Strana, Kebap time.

The Microbreweries and Bars visited today:

Pivovar Narodni – Národní 8, Praha 1 – Nové Mesto

Pivo a Parek – Borivojova 58, 130 00 Praha 3

U Kurelu – Chvalova 1119/1, 130 00 Praha 3

Pivoteka Illegal Beer – Ve Smeckách 590/16, 110 00 Praha 1

Jama V Jáme 1671/7, Praha 1 – Nové Mesto

Pivovar U Fleku – Kremencova 1651/11, Praha 1

Link to Day 4 – Praha – The Fourth and Final Day of Prague 2015

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Praha – A Day with Fred Waltman

Posted on October 30, 2015 by Hector

First things first, there had to be Curry-Heute. The Curry House near Palmovka Metro Station was in a new part of Praha for The Hector, During the meal there was a text from Fred Waltman to arrange a rendezvous. Pivo a Parek (Bier & Sausage) was the nominated venue. Arriving first to the empty Pub made things easier for me potentially. I should be able to welcome The Group.

Zatecky 7 schod at 13.5° had the Czech for Hops in its description, this is what I was hoping to unearth today, lots of new-style Czech Hoppy Piwo. The Bier had a dark gold, body, but too sweet, such that the hops were drowned in the sweetness. Not the best of starts, things got worse.

How long does one wait before contacting – The Missing? Fred assured me they were – out front – at Pivo a Parek. On exchanging addresses we realised there are two, they were at Pivoteka a Parek (Korunni 1075), let’s try again.

Three more venues were suggested, two of which Google Maps said were permanently closed. The Prague Beer Museum at Namesti Miru definitely exists and should be open. Was it easier to walk or jump back to the Centrum and take the Metro back out? As ever, the Ubiquitous Tram 9 would take me from Lipanska back to Hlvani Nadrazi.

This was my first Praha Beer Museum never having been to the Original which people tell me is the smokiest, most uncomfortable place in Praha. This second version had smoking in the Bar with a non-smoking room off. Despite being quiet this early in the afternoon, it was still grim walking into a Bar with even one person smoking. This is most certainly a Multi-Tap Pub, however, before Pivo I though to had better introduce myself.

Fred knows everyone in Bier Circles, I am honoured to be part of this. I was introduced to Tom, who has been on every one of Fred’s Trips. Jim is Fred’s brother in law, and Sam who I would establish The Core of the assembled Company. Some went shopping mid-afternoon, not keeping up with the pace. Fred’s Trips last longer than anything Hector could stomach, Bier from Lunchtime every day, until… Over the next few days this would be established.

I took reconsiderations for which Piwo to order. Matuska Raptor at 6.3% (15°) was – Beer of the Day – quite a heavy start, but I was in The Company of Professionals. Gold and Full-bodied, the Raptor had Hops but not – the Big Hop Hit – I was looking for.. Still, not a shabby Bier at all, better than mass produced Eurofizz. With two Czech Hops – Saaz and Premiant – plus two American – Cascade and Amarillo – one might have expected – a Blast.

It was at the next venue when the full Fred Waltman Experience kicked in. We turned left out of the Beer Museum and walked straight down the hill to Sokolska. At the bottom of the hill was Restaurace Kulovy Blesk, without knowledge from a List, one would have walked on by. There was nothing to suggest that this was another Multi-Tap Bar. Walking along a corridor we found ourselves in a Jerry-built covered area with a Bar. We were led downstairs to a larger Bar with rooms off.

Fred ordered Four Biers to share, his System being we try them all, then choose one to enjoy Solo. Two stood out: another Matuska – California, 5.5% (13°) and Malesov IPA at 5.3% (14°) were – in the style. The California was a – Special – from Matuska, with Saaz (Cz) and Cascade Hops, a blend of Czech and American Hops, here we go.

Had Hector been in his usual – Company – this would have been it, some would have insisted on staying here. However, this was a Fred Waltman Tour, little did I know what awaited.

It was a good ten minute walk along and uphill to Dno Pytle. Today is Friday, Fred assured me that on Friday evenings, Mein Host Taps Barrels of Buttenheim Bier. I was here to sample new Czech Piwo, but the Opperchancity of some Löwenbräu-Buttenheim on gravity would be irresistible. Charming as Mein Host was, not tonight too quiet.

Seven Biers were summoned, one from each Tap. Permon – Hopper Chinook– at 6.3% (15°) was what The Hector picked as #1 with Permon IPA at 5.8% close behind.

Finally, the camera was out to try and record – The Company – but one step at a time. Photographing the Venues and the Bier was one thing, photographing my Drinking Buddies would be a matter of waiting for the Opperchancity. Tom never appears in photos I am told…oops.

Up the hill took Hector to a familiar Square at Jihirod Podebrad Metro but a brand new venue – BeerGeek. This Basement Bar is as trendy as any Multi-Tap Bar in Europe, an Electronic Board too, how gauche.

The place was busy such that we could not all get a seat. Initially we stood at a Barrel at the foot of the stairs. The Fred Ritual was organised, 5 samples this time, 0.3l glasses. In time we managed to get space at the far end of the room. As this would be the last port of call today it was time for pints. Lucky Bastard India IPA at 6.5% (15°) stood out on the Board even without the Samples. This was followed by the Lucky Bastard Black IPA at 6.0%. With Hops to the fore in the IPA add Chocolate and Coffee to the Black IPA.

By now I had photos of the entire Company today, meet Jim and Sam. It was time to call it a day and I get to do it all over again tomorrow.

Hector still had something else to investigate this evening. There is a Curry House up the hill from the Ibis Mala Strana. The Taj Mahal Express was closing by the time I arrived, a Takeaway was secured. Wot, no Kebap?

The Bars visited today:

Pivo a Parek – Borivojova 58, 130 00 Praha 3

Prague Beer Museum at Namesti Miru – Americká 341/43, Praha 2 – Vinohrady

Restaurace Kulovy Blesk – Sokolska 13, Nove Mesto Praha – 2

Dno Pytle – Vinohradská 1485/63, Praha 2 – Vinohrady

BeerGeek – Vinohradska 988/62, Praha 3 – Zizkov

Link to Day 3 – Praha – A Second Day with Fred Waltman

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Praha – The Planned Solo Trip – Day 1

Posted on October 29, 2015 by Hector

A flight from Scotland to Turkey for £25.00? Hector could not resist. The first obstacle was that this was the last flight of the season and so there had to be an alternative route back home. The second obstacle was that this Trip had to end this coming Sunday in order to be ready for the forthcoming Bock Tapping at Buttenehim et al.

One night in Marmaris, a Ferry to Rhodes and a flight to Prague on consecutive days was the most cost effective route back to Glasgow. The Sunday night flight back to Glasgow was the only leg which cost serious Cash. Nay problem, until…

Had I applied for my Turkish Visa at the time of booking there would have been no problem. Waiting until a couple of weeks before departure to discover there was not the required – six months – left on the Passport was not the best choice Hector has made. Having paid £££ to come home, I had to get to Prague, fortunately, the Thursday Flight was again at an attractive price, sorted.

Interaction on a favoured Social Medium revealed that Fred Waltman, Bier Guru and celebrated Beer Writer would be in Prague. We first met in 2011 in Bamberg, time to reacquaint ourselves.

Last time, it was a Bus from Vaclav Havel Airport to Dejvicka to pick up the Metro to the Centrum. This has changed to Bus 119 to Nadrazi Veleslavin. It is still Line A which one connects with, but two stops nearer the Airport. One can be in the Centrum within half an hour of exiting the Terminal.

Having checked in to the Ibis Mala Strana, it was back across the Vltava from Andel to Narodni in Staré Mesto. Novometsky Pivovar is a short walk from there, my preferred starting point on any Praha Trip.

Once upon a time, the Piwo here was not to my Palate, how things change. The other attraction is the Chicken Wings, the most simple of Tasty Meals, the Garlic Mayo adding a new dimension.

I was shown upstairs, a first, I have never seen the ground level so full. From my corner table I could see all, however,the first thing I noticed was that Chicken Wings were not on the Menu.

The Light Piwo was presented, I could have sat and had this until bedtime, the Accordion played Rosamunde and Que Sera Sera, Praha feels like a Second Home. The Chicken Wings arrived, if you don’t ask…

Retracing my steps back to Narodni, U Medvidku was found with ease. This has long been another of Hector’s Favourite Bier Houses in Praha since the first visit in 1992. The temptation to go upstairs and drink Old Gott which is brewed here was overcome, let’s stick to the Traditional – Budvar at a very affordable price. As I left I spotted the – Night Bar – in an adjacent doorway. The Unfiltered Budvar is served here, allegedly. One day.

It was time to try one of the new venues which appear on the updated Praha Bier Guides such as Bier-Traveller.com. Pivovar U Dobrenskych was a strategic short walk which could incorporate a night view over the Vltava. Walking down the steps into the Pivovar, I passed the Coppers and the Bar, taking a seat at a high table at the far end of this level. People were smoking. It was not clear if the Lower Level again was set aside as Smoke-free, where Food was being served. As we were only a handful of customers I decided to taste the Piwo and move on.

The Light Bier is Tribulus at an acceptable 14º. Gold in colour, full bodied but a bit on the Sweet side.

This was my first inhalation of other people’s disgusting habit since Athena. Why do individuals feel they have the right?

And so back to the Ibis Mala Strana where my – Courtesy Drink – awaited. Staropramen Lezak was all that was on offer. Sweet, horrendous, a Bier to be avoided at all costs. This fact hammered home even more by the fact that Hector has only ever experienced a hangover twice, both times this was the definite cause.

The Breweries and Hotel visited today:

Novometsky Pivovar Vodickova 20, Praha 1 – Nové Mesto

U Medvidku – Na Perštýne 7, Praha 1 – Staré Mesto

Pivovar U Dobrenskych – U Dobrenských 3, Praha 1 – Staré Mesto

Ibis Mala Strana – Plzenská 14, 150 00 Praha 5-Andel

Link to Day 2 – A Day with Fred Waltman

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München – Oktoberfest 2015 – Mittwoch

Posted on September 23, 2015 by Hector

This is Hector’s Version, and he’s sticking with it.

Hector has been t’Oktoberfest twice, both times during the Glasgow September Weekend, full price flights, rip-off hotel prices in München. Lord Clive of Crawley has been the only Ever-present.
When Jonathan joined The Company so many years back he related how it is possible to go t’Oktoberfest midweek and not struggle to find a seat early on, move about even. Fine for those who can choose when to take a Vacation, for us poor Teachers, ah, but no more! Has Hector mentioned – Retiral – only in the opening paragraph.
Armed with #1 Bayern Tickets, six set off from Nürnberg just after 09.00. We watched the direct RE depart ahead of us, by changing at Ingolstadt we would save some twenty minutes. Many had the same idea given the volume of the Bier Cargo brought on to the train by those dressed in t’Traditional Costume. Taking Bier to the World’s Biggest Bier Festival… only in Bayern.
Arriving in München we expected to see the Hauptbahnhof Reception Committee for the Wave of Syrian et al Refugees, the Station was just it usual bustle. There was an ambulance on the concourse. Clive and Hector went to park Clive’s luggage, he would return home this evening, if fit to fly. Jonathan, Dr. Stan, Jim and Aileen went straight to the Wiesn. Yes, Dr. Stan! The Man who said – Never again. We forgot to bring his dress.
Clive and Hector had – Other Business – before any Festbier was consumed, this is Munchen, there is another priority – Food – and this – Food – has to be – Curry – and there is only one venue where – The Curry – can be consumed – Indian Mango.

Fischer Vroni is the only Oktoberfest Zelt that Hector has set foot in previously, though at Frühlingsfest others have been encountered. Is it really five months since Frühlingsfest? It was not difficulty to find the others such are the wonders of technology. A table reserved at 17.00 would provide the locus for Bier #1, the Augustiner. Superb. There had to be photos, there had to postings on the various Social Media, – Others must suffer. I have previously, it isn’t my turn, I have completed my thirty four years of work at a top West of Scotland Independent School. Maybe thirty five was the original plan and this visit was not expected until 2016, however such is the Demoralising Mess that the Scottish Education System finds itself in, – Exit Stage Left… Today is a/the day Hector has been looking forward to most for over a decade. The Augustiner Festbier had Edelstoff as the route of its name – Wiesn Edelstoff (€10.30) – Yay, we like Edelstoff, actually Dr. Stan prefers the Helles, he’ll never find out.

Being much quieter, between – Prosits – there were fewer Fish being prepared, Less Aroma, Less Atmosphere. Hector is convinced that it was the visits here previously which awakened the Taste-buds to – Fish – Fish Curry – and now – Fisch Chettinad.

Dr. Stan was pacing himself, Three moved on to the Ochsenbraterei Spaten Tent, we joined as soon as. One half of the Tent was full, again later bookings put people off these tables, were they here for the duration? The Spatenfestbier was also a joy, once we were served.

Doris, Our Doris, was deep in conversation with a fellow worker, two tables from us, same passage, we were ignored. When it came time for her to end her conversation she deigned to serve the remaining three Biers. Where the Musik in Fischer Vroni had all been Bayerische, Traditional, here we had to suffer the vagaries of so called Popular Musik. Take me home, Country Roads, to the place…

The Chickens are dead, we’re in The Zone

Once again, Jim, Aileen and Jonathan were ready to move on before those who have not been here for some years. Far right in the Löwenbräu Tent – was the message. It was now mid-afternoon, the Fest was Filling. The Löwenbräu Tent was at the far end of the site, the Laughing Lion is a Legend.

The far right of the Tent was stowed, Jonathan was phoned, they were outside, well inside but at the side, outside, never mind…. Just as we were about to leave – The Inner Sanctum – Hector, alert and vigilant spotted a gap created by departing Weans, we were in!

Only three momentarily occupied the table which should have accepted eight. The Others were informed, – We have Seats! The third Mass is never a problem, drinking it before it gets warm is the main concern rather than the falling over possibility. One can be – taken out – by falling bodies. On Visit #1, Hector attempted Impossible Gymnastics to get from his seat to the passage, the Resulting Debris cheered… just as well. The Band were just along from us, the Tent was Full, this was t’Oktoberfest.
Mathäser
From 1976 until 1986, the Mathäser Bierstadt was everything to Hector. Löwenbräu Helles/Dunkles by the Mass, a Band, that all could see and react with. Where Reinhard used to play. The side rooms (Inside) the Main Tent had Local Names, one was Mathäser, this stared at me throughout, I should have swopped seats with Clive.
As is the norm, the table bonded. A Brother and Sister from -???? – and a younger Chap. We have Seats! They were happy to continue the blocking of the seats so as The Others could join us. We found The Others inside out, outside in. It was still empty out there within the Löwenbräu Perimeter. There was a text – Olaf is here. By now, The Others had moved to a Hacker-Pschorr Tent to accommodate the new arrival.

Dr. Stan is a Very Naughty Boy

As we neared the end of Litre 3 Heute, Dr. Stan made a suggestion – We have seats, inside, why move? Bier #4! By now we were well in with out Table Associates, we still had seats blocked – We have Seats!

We’re on our way – was the last thing Hector heard from Jim today. The Plan was to rendezvous at the Hofbräu Tent where Jonathan assured us there was A Pit, standing service. Everywhere else, no Seat, no Bier. We have Seats!

Nearing 18.00, Dr. Stan again made a proclamation. Knowing that we were due to depart in time for the sensible 19.09 back to Ingolstadt/Nürnberg and we were all on the same Bayern Ticket, he suggested he go and we stay on longer. This message was relayed to Jonathan, Jim and Aileen. I believe there was concurrence. Clive would have had to leave at some point to get to the Airport. The Hofbräu Tent was calling. Exiting the Löwenbräu Tent I managed to lose Dr. Stan and Clive. There was a communique, apparently the 19.09 was re-instated. Jim had unilaterally declared it was time to go home and had left, with Aileen. Was Hector the only person still at t’Oktoberfest?

Spotting an exit, I could not work out why the closer I walked to the U Bahn Station, the further I was getting from it. There was a realisation, Hector would never make the 19.09. Despite having left first, Jim and Aileen never made it either. Dr. Stan and Jonathan were the only two on the ticket for five.
Hector had left the site on the far side. What was a Hector to do?
The Trusty DB App informed that the next optimum train was in two hours. How does a Hector amuse himself for two hours in München ?
Taxi –Zweibrückenstraße Bitte. Time for Lamm Chettinad. Nobody at Indian Mango was surprised to see me.
I still had over an hour, the Augstiner Gastätten had to be visited, one cannot come to München and not visit, also the Edelstoff had to be sampled, for comparison purposes.
With Steven Wilson’s – Hand Cannot Erase – uninterrupted, the journey back was gone in no time. Had I chosen not to change at Ingolstadt I would still have arrived in Nürnberg, but some half hour later.
Strange, all in all, this was a remarkably Sober Oktoberfest.

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Katowice – Fahren de Polen

Posted on July 30, 2015 by Hector

The Inter City Train from Warszawa to Katowice impressed all. Howard no doubt considered writing a letter to Scotrail to ask why they are so crap in comparison. 59Zl, a Tenner each, tickets bought the day before, none of this obscure UK Ticket Pricing nonsense. Brand new rolling stock, comfortable, clean, punctual. A waste bin sat at ankle height between Dr. Stan and Hector, lined with a poly-bag, hygiene. It was even checked/replaced as required in transit. Table service, complimentary coffee, soft drinks. A Dry-cleaning service was available for #1 Passenger who sat three abreast across the carriage. Announcements in English, this was Train Travel Century #21, Gerry Anderson would have been proud.

The clever travel trick is to have a train depart just after checking-out time at a hotel and arrive just on checking-in time at the next destination. Three hours is therefore the optimum journey time between any two European Cities. Katowice fitted the bill. Why are we here? Bernard couldn’t believe the decision, Hector knows best. Hector was out on a limb, the day could go tits up, still one day, only…

The Hotel Katowice impressed last October when Marg and Hector stayed two nights. Five minutes on foot from the station, at the edge of the still being refurbished Main Square, Rynek. Most were delighted to be reminded that we had paid at the time of booking, an even cheaper day. The Single Rooms were brighter than the publicity photos suggested, more than adequate, but no air-con. Open Windae’? Mosquito repellent required tonight. Yvonne has furnished us all with individual bottles of Avon – Skin So Soft, nice. We are a Fragrant Collective.

Katowice- The Tour

Heading right out of Hotel Katowice takes one towards the large arena of which the citizens are proud. Hector still prefers the smaller venue to the left of the Hotel where Pendragon and other Prog Rock Acts have performed over the years, we’ll pass them by, eventually.

A sculpture that puzzled us all had to be photographed, beyond this lies the Mining Museum. There was a crowd. (Sorry, Mr. Vonnegut) This is – The Place – to congregate in Katowice. All sorts were waiting to go underground, not us. Mags asked which direction the first pub of the day was. Hector pointed one hundred and eighty degrees to the direction of travel. Bernard no doubt told us a Brief History of Time, or even the Social-Political-History of Silesian Coal Mining. Kenny gets a mention, he is in the group photo, the last we see of him today?

Across the trunk road towards the University and the vista is pure Poland 1960+, hideous. Howard gets the blame for everything. It takes ages to cross any road, – death to jaywalkers – we are led to believe. We conform, just. Who wants to see the church? That’s it in the distance, it looks the same close up, only larger. Enough. Time to head along the main pedestrian street which is active already mid-afternoon. The Youngsters are out, drinking Bier, well the stuff we are here to avoid. We pass the spot where Marg first glimpsed her Musik-Hero – Clive Nolan – in October last, nobody is impressed. Along the main drag towards the station once more, we lose Howard and Bernard, not clever, Biala Malpa is in a lane off the main street. Craig volunteers to wait at the entrance to guide them in. Where is Dr. Stan, Kenny? Only Yvonne, Mags and Hector are at the Bar. The Taps are aplenty, there are but four Pump clips. WTF?

You have no Bier! Hector is in the shit.

It is arriving just now.

When will it go on?

Soon.

Available soon? Hector spots a Bottle in t’Fridge, an IPA. It is warm, just in. This is the most famous Pub in Katowice, Joe is texted, he must suffer too.

From the Available Four – Do you have something light, hoppy? Mein Host pours a sample of a Black Bier. No thanks. Draught Belgian Bier in Polska? Brugs Witte has to suffice, a Hoegarden Variant. Mags and Yvonne follow suit, Craig appears, he sits this out. Hector is in Deep Shit.

Dr. Stan and Kenny arrive, Bernard and Howard realise they have lost us… The Pump clips appear, slowly we find Quality Polish Bier. Now, Dear Reader, Hector has to admit that for the remainder of Fahren de Polen, the accurate Bier-Reporting will be dependent on photos of the Bier. The Trusty Samsung packed in, Factory Reset, data lost. Total Shit.

Even Craig found a Hoppy Bier he liked, the afternoon was improving as each Tap was restored. The Bottles had time to chill, the IPA. Imperial Citra – IPA – in – The Style. No Rowing Jack here, they had it in bottles last visit. Kenny calls it a day; he is not right. The afternoon progresses, slowly, a sensible pace. Two Venues promised for later, Robert, Mein Host at Browariat, is expecting us. C4 is en route. Curry-Heute, the last remaining Katowice Curry Source remains unblogged. Nobody else fancies Curry. What is wrong with these people? Hector suggest the others try Krysztalowa, Ladies, do not order – The Ribs!

No Curry-Heute

Krysztalowa impressed so much when Hector dined with Marg, Curry was abandoned, let’s Dine. A table for eight please. Doris and Bert were taken aback. We were asked to wait. Mein Hostess came from a different direction and welcomed us warmly. We were escorted to the Main Dining Room where two tables had now been set together. Who ordered Wine? The Ladies. Who ordered The Ribs? – The Ladies.

Howard ordered something Steak-like, The Waiter tied a Bib around his throat, sorry, neck. What did he know? Has knowledge of Howard’s lack of table etiquette reached Silesia? Craig ordered Soup, he raved about it.

Perogi, Dumplings, to share. Hector was not falling for ordering this Starter then try to follow with a Main, impossible. Dr. Stan would share, Bernard ordered a whole portion. Golombki as The Main, with Tomato Sauce, as eaten since 1962-ish. Time to remind Dr. Stan that Golombki was Dr. Rick’s Favourite Polish Dish. The Waiter apologises, not enough Golombki. We flip the order, have it to share as a Starter, full portion of Dumplings to follow. The Ladies struggled from the off with the Ribs, the accompanying Potatoes, the Side Cabbage. Who wants some? QED.

Howard showed the World that he has mastered the use of Eating Irons. Why The Bib? Howard remains the focus of attention, he can cope. Meanwhile those here for the first time are loving the service, the ambience, the décor. We are in the set of a 1950s Spy Novel. The Bill comes. This place, like the Milk Bars, must be Government Subsidised, the Prices are artificially – low. The Chaps paid Pennies, The Ladies paid for their wine, who else had a glass? Not Hector, Bier was calling.

C4 was located through the dingy underpass around the corner from Kryzstalowa, it is now a posh – Rum Bar. Consider Biala Malpa had not produced the goods and this was my fall-back…

Browariat

Robert greeted us as we entered, did we stand out that much? I had Curry for dinner tonight in your honour. Why didn’t he invite me? In Browariat there is Bier. The Taps had doubled from four to eight, something for everyone. For some, Bedtime was rapidly approaching. The Literature caught the imagination of The Chaps. CAMBA we all know from our Easter Trip to München. FourPure’s Wheat Bier was available on Tap, it was at this very place last October when I sampled my first Bermondsey Ale, tonight I had to have some Artezan IPA having had it at source. Paranoid Citrus IPA at 6.5% had to be sampled, as ever we were – chasing the Hop.

Robert showed us his roof terrace where Hops were growing in pots. Have you ever considered making Bier from Methi? – I had to ask. The answer was in the negative, however, the seed was planted I hope.

The numbers dwindled, Howard and Hector were left with Dr. Stan. We thought we were leaving when Robert insisted we share a bottle of Vorsicht Hopfen at 7.0%

Hector escorted Howard back to Hotel Katowice. Beware of Ladies twirling red umbrellas, they want you to go to places where trouble awaits, and no doubt Crap Bier at Exorbitant prices.

The Bars and Restaurant visited today:

Browariat – Francuska 11 40-015 Katowice
Biala Malpa – 3 Maja 38 40-097 Katowice
Krysztalowa – ul Warszwawska 5 Katowice

And so to Krakow.

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Bier-Traveller

Day 3 – The Road to Jaipur, via Patan

Hector’s India Trip – A Day in New Delhi

Hector’s 2016 India Trip starts here

Buttenheim – The Löwenbräu Bockbier Tapping 2015

Praha – The Fourth and Final Day of Prague 2015

Praha – A Second Day with Fred Waltman

Praha – A Day with Fred Waltman

Praha – The Planned Solo Trip – Day 1

München – Oktoberfest 2015 – Mittwoch

Katowice – Fahren de Polen

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