The approaches to Katowice were not inspiring. The City has suffered greatly from the 1960s, when Architects everywhere were on Substances. Eastern European Architecture is particularly Brutal, Utilitarian.
The new, stylish, Shopping Mall at the Station gave way to a few streets of the Old, however as we headed east towards Rynek and Hotel Katowice the main square was similar to Helensburgh this year, dug up.
Hotel Katowice looked the part, a Big Box. It turned out to be a very comfortable stay despite an underlying ambience of tobacco everywhere. Booking.com had offered an upgrade from a Double Room to a Suite for and extra couple of quid, appreciated. This was Comfort at Rock-Bottom Prices.
The Breakfast Buffet Room was like something out of a Bad Spy Novel, we felt as if we were being watched. A Buffet. Eat whatever you want, in Eastern Europe? Who would have predicted that Twenty Five Years ago next month?
The Man from Bradford only has one line these days – Beerpubs.pl. As if this is the most perfect Website. It lists Bier outlets with Scores. The Scores do not really reflect the quality and range of Bier on offer. Joe, a fellow Glasgow CAMRA Member spoke highly of Biala Malpa,
I would have my first Katowice Bier here. Meanwhile other Pubs were located. Kato had a handful of Taps and Dull Bier, Czech. Latajaca Swinia (Staromiejska 3 40-013 Katowice) was not revealing itself, two streets with one letter different in the middle.
In the end it was more Coffee Café with Bier and closed for renovation. Crossing under the Railway we found Browariat which appeared according to Beerpubs.pl to suggest it was along the right lines. It was closed and would remain so this day.
C4 was at the next Railway underpass, the door was open. The Doris on a settee knew nothing. Nobody was there, Bier was not planned this early, however the Taps had Polish Promise.
There was Coffee with Plum-cake, Excellent. We had seen what few streets the Stare Miasto of Katowice had to offer. Is this not why Kenneth and Hector left Warszava after Two Hours in 1992? Katowice had Biala Malpa, The White Monkey.
Hadra (Pracovnia Piwa) at 5.9% appeared to have the Pedigree. The style was IPA, but there was no serious Hop Hit. There was nothing for it – a Bottle of Rowing Jack please.
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Dinner – Krysztalowa
Hector chose Krysztalowa, a Traditional Polish Restaurant for this evening’s meal. The Venue was like something from a time long past. With copious staff, two huge rooms, and a hush-ambiance, it was the sort of place where wearing a t-shirt one might feel under-dressed. However, the Best Restaurants never pass comment.
Black Pudding Dumplings were on the Menu. I had to have them. So was Golombki, the First Polish Dish I ever tasted in the early 1960s. I had to have both. I persuaded Marg that we should share a Dumpling Starter. Marg ordered Ribs with…
We sat for ages, this was a place – To Dine – nobody was in a hurry. Other tables were occupied, there was no sound of conversation, Hush.
The Waiter had spoken efficient English, so when Two Plates of Dumplings were presented, em… At £2.40 a Portion we were hardly going to make a fuss. The Dumplings were Excellent, well the First Four, the Fifth… There were Eight. Marg and I both stopped at Five each. We were offered a Doggy Bag.
I have never seen such large servings of Glombki, Two Large Rolls of Cabbage Leaves stuffed with Ground Meat and Rice, topped with Home-made Tomato Soup served separately. Slowly, methodically, I managed most.
Across the table Marg had a Rack of Ribs, Two Racks, one ended up on my plate, temporarily. Served on a Wooden Board with Pan-fried Potatoes, a Pear?, Sauce, a Modest Snack, and huge Side of Sauerkraut. She was defeated before she started. We hate wasting food, this was excessive. Again, Doggy Bags were offered. The staff were concerned that we did not like the food. The food was Traditional, Wonderful, be careful. The Bill? Small.
After dinner we walked along the main drag past Kato on the east side of Rynek. Browariat was definitely closed, forever? C4 was open, but we knew that already. Two Guys were standing at the Bar. Before I had a chance to order we were engaged
in conversation. What are you doing in Katowice? Before I had settled on my Bier the Barman had Pendragon playing on their system. Nice touch. He was also surprised to hear that Browariat was closed. Pinta’s Oki Doki at 4.3%, and in a Bottle, was recommended by the Barman as their best candidate for a Hector Bier. I had tried their Draft Bock, too Sweet.
The Locals were interested in the recent Scottish Vote on Independence. The majority of Folk I have met have expressed a sense of relief that we did not break away from England. Next time.
The entire Pendragon album – Not of this World – was played, Marg went exploring. C4 is quite a Labyrinth. Not the most Gemuchtlicht of premises, but it does sell Bier you are not going to find in Bog Standard Polish Pubs. By now I was considering Katowice for the stop-off next summer between Warszawa and Krakow. I need another Venue, Biala Malpa and C4 might not carry off a day alone. More research needed.
Pendragon Day
Taking the alternative direction from the Hotel Katowice, Marg and Hector walked up towards the large Indoor Arena of which the people of Katowice are very proud. Pendragon were not playing here but at the Rialto. From there we walked along towards the remnants of the Silesian Mining Industry. This took us away from the Town Centre but walking back through the University area took us to the First Curry Experience of the day, a Snack.
The fabled Browariat was found in daylight, still no sign of life. Kato (Mariacka 13 40-014 Katowice) and Mad Mick’s (Warszawska 13 40-008 Katowice) were inspected but sold only Mainstream Bier.
Walking in the direction of the Town Centre Marg recognised Clive Nolan, Keyboard player with Pendragon (and Arena). Clive and Co. were heading towards their hotel, why the Tour Bus did not drop then off here puzzled. Time to go and see what is happening.
Walking boldly into the Rialto, Nick Barrett was busy at a laptop. Not the warmest of welcomes. We saw the equipment being erected on the stage. At the door, chatting to to someone unknown was a very familiar face – Gary Chandler – of Jadis who would play his own material as Support this evening, but solo. We waited. I introduced myself and recalled the days of Rotherham. We’ll see you tonight, but you’ll see us in Glasgow…
Heading past Biala Malpa, for the moment, we ended up at a Czech Bar – Hospoda. We would be the only customers. I had to try a new Czech Piwo. Plata was an OK yellow, fizzy Bier with a Sweet Aftertaste. The palate demands so much more these days.
We had to pass Biala Malpa, it would have been rude not to enter. McFarmer, Browar-Reden, Polska was and Amber Ale with serious American Hops. At 6.9%, the going rate of Polish Bier.
There had to be a Proper Curry House visit this evening, the venue closest to the Rialto was chosen. Which takes us to the main reason why Marg and Hector were in Poland this week – Pendragon!
The Gig finished promptly, the Band had to travel to their next destination, sharply. Going back to C4 or Biala Malpa was an option. Let’s give Browariat another chance.
What a decision. We were stared at as we entered, we were friends when we departed. Mein Host was introduced to us by the first Chap who spoke to us. The Draught Bier Range was not that instantly grabbing, only four taps. However it was an opperchancity to try my first ever Deutsche Pale Ale from Bayerisch. At 5.5% it sort of worked, but was not life changing. Mein Host then insisted Marg try a Bier… something Very Special in a Very Small Glass, and undisclosed. Marg played along.
Bottled Camba Weisse from a new Bayern Brewery followed. It’s not often I drink Weizen these days. There is a tendency to gag unless it is something with Big Bananas this had not. Mein Host recommended I sample my first ever Bermondsey Bier – Partizan Pale Ale. At 4.9%, this was chosen over the more demanding IPA at 6.9%. Good Bier, but Bottled and expensive for Poland. Just the Five US Hops in the IPA, I wished it had been earlier. Mein Host was proud to have these.
By now I knew there had to be a night in Katowice next summer. Cards were exchanged, I was even given a Weissebier Glass as a Souvenir, just what I needed…
We’ll be back, July 30th, 2015.
Four Pubs and two Restaurants visited in in Katowice
Biala Malpa – 3 Maja 38 40-097 Katowice
Browariat – Francuska 11 40-015 Katowice
C4 –Wojewódzka 26a 40-026 Katowice (Closed, now a Rum Bar)
Hospoda – Gliwicka 6/1 40-079 Katowice
A Big Taxi was arranged to pick us up at 18.15, still no Jonathan. Kenny went back – to recharge – and find Peter. Jonathan was getting nowhere fast, we decided to use the taxi to collect him. I know where your friend is – declared the Driver. Fifteen minutes and €32.00 later we were at the Sperrmauer, as the Möhne Dam is called locally. We would be collected in one hour.
