The Staggs, Musselburgh – POTY – and no Hanging Baskets!

Staggs POTYOnce a month, a fair representation of Glasgow CAMRA members, hereafter – The Company – descend upon The Volunteer Arms (Staggs) in Musselburgh. We are in our Third Year of doing so, it is now written.

Actually, not every visit is written in these humble pages, needless to say, today was a special day.

We now have our own Taxi Driver – Rab, who collects us at Waverley and deposits us back there at the end of our shift.

On the train coming though, The Seven who came from Queen St were led to believe that a new Dark Star (Partridge Green, West Sussex) 6.5% Ale called – Six Hop Ale – was on. On arrival this was updated remotely by the Management via a well-known Medium to – as soon as Oakham’s 5.5%  (Peterborough, Cambridgeshire)  Perun – goes off.

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Howard before Green Devil, and after…

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Edinburgh CAMRA assembled slowly, The Company was Eleven by the time they had all arrived. As Glasgow CAMRA members should we attend the Edinburgh AGM being held in the Lounge Bar and ensure that The Staggs was Pub of the Year? No need.  A clear winner, and no Hanging Baskets!

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With Howard, the Chairman of the Glasgow Branch present, there was almost an extraordinary meeting to vote The Staggs our POTY.  Why can’t we?

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Meanwhile we had to content ourselves with  Oakham’s tried and savoured Green Devil (6.0%) and Bishop’s Farewell (4.6%). The Staggs just doesn’t serve one Oakham Ale, it serves many, simultaneously, hence our Monthly Trek. Ales from other Breweries are available also, and tried. Who infamously said – There is no demand for – Strong, Pale Hoppy Ales. (?)

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After three hours there was still no sign of the Six Hop. Katie, Mein Host for the day, insisted that the Perun was flying out the door yesterday. Today, nobody was drinking it. Howard, Dr. Stan and Neil fell on the sword. Had Craig not insisted we wouldn’t like it no doubt it would have vanished soon after our arrival. Still no Six Hop Ale.

There was a Chap here to meet Boydie…    To Absent Friends and Mr. Boyd.

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Then Neil switched to Hit the Lip (Cromarty Brewing Company, Davidston, Cromarty) at a modest 3.8%. That was the last pint, on the came the Six Hop Ale, we didn’t like it!

Too Sweet. Ouch! Back to the Green Devil.

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At 6%, Green Devil ticks all the boxes – Blond, Body, Citrus, Serious Grapefruit, and Huge Hops! We like it. Sometimes The Duke says he gets Mango. At the turn of the year there was a fear that it had become Mango Juice, but no more. The Grapefruit is officially back.

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Rab took us back to Waverley.  Back in Glasgow by 21.00.

Time for  CurryHeute…

Posted in Musselburgh | 2 Comments

St. Albans – Waiting for a ‘Plane

And then there were Two

St Albans Bier-Traveller (20)Clive and Hector walked down from the Bedford Travelodge towards the Train Station. This took us along Midland Rd., we could not pass the excellent Bala Sweet & Tandoori Centre. After a Tidy Lunch it was time to negotiate the Rail Replacement Bus. Valuable Drinking Time would be wasted.

Clive had prepared a Route, this was Hector’s Second Visit to St Albans, Clive had evidently been here more often. Something perhaps due to a direct train from Brighton to Bedford. The Farmer’s Boy is a few minutes from St. Albans Train Station. It was at this very Venue where The Red Bird – Scarlet Macaw (Oakham, Peterborough, Cambridgeshire) was first encountered.

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At 4.4% this is a decent abv for a Sunday. Dark Gold, a Fuller Body than the 4.2% suggests, and Screaming Hops.

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Rather than head into the Town Centre, Clive navigated his way to a Cluster of Backstreet Pubs. Only in England could such Quality Pubs coexist.

Garibaldi was next. Fool’s Gold (Fullers, London ) at 4.0% was not up to the task of following The Red Bird. A busy Pub with many here for Sunday Lunch, the Great English Tradition that still Hector finds strange after Sunday Closing being The Norm in his Formative Years.

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The Trusty Samsung alerted Hector to the Late Departure of his Flight. 19.40 was now 20.10. How this technology works is astonishing. Time to squeeze in an extra Pub?

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St Albans Bier-Traveller (13)We entered The White Lion from the rear through the garden. This meant we missed out on the Public Bar. Tribute, a Cornish Pale Ale at an undemanding 4.2% (St, Austell, Cornwall) was pleasant enough. It previously took Two attempts to appreciate their Nicholson’s IPA, so maybe next time.

Around the corner and slightly uphill lies the White Hart Tap. A range of Keg Bier was on offer, however the tried and tested Landlord (Timothy Taylor, Keighley, Yorkshire) was calling. At 4.3% this is regarded as still light in abv by most of our company, but was in keeping of getting to an airport to fly home.

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All Pubs visited today were once again very welcoming. The Scarlet Macaw aside, we did not find anything outstanding. English Pubs might be Wonderful in terms of Atmosphere and Service, like the vast majority of Scottish Pubs selling Real Ale, they don’t necessarily have anything Pale, Light and Hoppy at 5% plus.

Next Saturday, The Staggs, Musselburgh. Order will be restored.

The Pubs visited today:

The Farmer’s Boy  –  134 London Rd, St Albans, Hertfordshire, AL1 1PQ

Garibaldi  –  61 Albert St, St Albans, Hertfordshire, AL1 1RT

The White Lion  –  91 Sopwell Ln, St Albans, Hertfordshire, AL1 1RN

White Hart Tap  –  4 Keyfield Terrace, St Albans, Hertfordshire, AL1 1QJ

Posted in St. Albans | Comments Off on St. Albans – Waiting for a ‘Plane

Day Two of the Bedford-Bamberg Spring Fest, then a Pub or Three

Bedford-Bamberg Spring Fest May10 Bier-Traveller (1)A suitably Large Lunch was consumed at a very promising Bedford Curry House the – Bala Sweet & Tandoori Centre. Hector had passed Dr, Stan, Clive and Jonathan by chance at the end of Midland Street in a Wetherspoons that was not known to exist – Pilgrim’s Progress. Cue – Greenslade! On my return it was decreed that a return to the Festival was Written. The Four Bier Tokens were located in my wallet, just as well I had not removed them.

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The Don Bosco Musikanten were playing, there was no Queue at t’Bar, a Table was acquired in the Inner Room, Perfect! The Vierzehnheiligen Nothelfer Silberbock (Trunk, Bad Stafelstein, Bayern) was back on, the day was under-way. Now this did taste a bit Sweet, and so more Schlenkerla – Old Smoke Doppelbock (Heller, Bamberg, Bayern) was appreciated more.

Now even us hardened Bockbier Drinkers know that this is not a Sustainable Start to a day. We departed after Two, in search of Domestic Ale at a more manageable abv.

Bedford Arms Bier-Traveller (1)The Bedford Arms is located across from Bedford Prison. The Façade of the Prison looked familiar, this was featured in the opening of the Legendary BBC Sitcom – Porridge.

Boulier, from the Single Hop range (Buntingford Brewery, Royston, Hertfordshire) was the Ale recommended by The Barman. The Barman’s name was Carlos.

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This was quite Fruity after the Schlenkerla, though the Hops came through. The joy of British Ale, served in Cask and markedly different from the Keg Deutsche Bier, it holds its own. Any Ale which follows Schlenkerla is being truly tested. This was so good, another was called for.

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A Couple of Locals were at the Bar during our visit. Carlos behind the Bar was most Hospitable. Clive was able to charge his phone. A conversation on Natural Logs which had began back in the Corn Exchange now developed further. Pythagoras was mentioned, a good time for Hector to mention the Pythagorean Cup. A Goblet which empties itself if over-filled.

There was a Curry Takeaway Menu behind the Bar. On Sunday Evenings the New Bombay delivers to those who take part in the Curry Night. A Great Idea. Now what were the chances of Hector going to visit Bedford’s Oldest Curry House this very day?

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A Canvas Print on the wall featured a Trumpet and some Writing. That looks like Hebrew the way it is designed. Carlos agreed, he had previously thought so too but nobody had ever seen this before. Carlos was due to return to perform as Singer-Guitarist on Sunday evening. We had to leave. Our visit had been made most pleasant. Cheers!

Wellington Arms Bedford Bier-Traveller (1)The Wellington Arms was visited by Dr. Stan and Hector Two Years ago, we were the last men standing on that occasion. Mid-afternoon and the place was doing well. Jonathan had a table for us and an Ale recommendation, a New Oakham! Davy Jones (Oakham, Peterborough, Cambridgeshire) at 5% was right on our sought after abv. A Copper Coloured Ale, it had the familiar Oakham Hoppiness but not enough of it. Green Devil and Scarlet Macaw this was not.

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We spent a very comfortable and relaxed hour here in what is a truly excellent Pub. The Rest of The Friends of Hector were in Newcastle today. There was absolutely no sense of – Our Ale is better than your Ale!

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From the Wellington Arms we were able to stretch our legs as we headed towards the Cricketers Arms. I now Know this is a Welsh Pub and so did not put my foot in it this time.

Cricketers Arms Bedford Bier-Traveller (1)SA Gold (Brains, Cardiff, Wales) at 4.3% was never going to set the heather on fire. It didn’t. Nowhere near enough Hops.

Mein Host was excellent, he chatted away. Doris who had tolerated us Two Years ago was more in the background on this visit. Sat in a large square in the raised area to the rear, a Local came in and sat amongst us, no problem. He too joined in. Very relaxing, very welcoming. Another fine English, sorry, Welsh Hostelry.

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Both the Wellington Arms and the Cricketers Rams had been visited before, time for somewhere new. Behind the Cricketers Arms lies the Three Cups. A Greene King Pub, this was a risky visit. Doris behind the Bar was most welcoming. We were being made to feel Welcome everywhere today. Yes, we are here for the Bier Festival, but we can’t stay there all day. Summer Lightning (Hopback, Salisbury, Wiltshire) at 5% was a Bonus. A pity their Winter Lightning is not available all year round. Still, this Gold, reasonably Hopped Ale, does the trick. A Great Fall-back.

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Stunning Crisps, best ever, must be getting hungry, again…

And so, time to call it a day, but not before a visit to the New Bombay.

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The Bier Festival and Pubs Visited today:

The Bedford Corn Exchange  –  Saint Paul’s Square,  Bedford, MK40 1SL

The Bedford Arms  –  2 Bromham Rd, Bedford, MK40 2QA

The Wellington Arms  – 40-42 Wellington Street, Bedford, Bedfordshire, MK40 2JX

The Cricketers Arms  –  35 Goldington Road,  Bedford, MK40 3LH

The Three Cups – 45 Newnham Street, Bedford, MK40 3JR

Posted in Bedford | 2 Comments

Bedford-Bamberg Spring Fest – 2014

Last year the Bedford-Bamberg Spring Fest was not an option, no suitable flight from Glasgow to Luton. This year it was possible to catch the 16.30 and with efficient Bus and Train connections, Hector arrived in Bedford at 18.36. The Bag was dropped off at The Travelodge at the top of the town and Curry at the over-hyped Deshi Spice provided Ballast before settling down to an Evening of Deutsche Bier.

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Bedford-Bamberg Spring Fest May9 Bier-Traveller (5)Arriving at the Corn Exchange around 19.30, Lord Clive of Crawley was sitting in the Vestibule with Richard. Richard was finishing his last Pint, he had been here a while already. The Don Bosco Musikanten were outside posing for Photos, I obliged. We had a good late Friday Night session with them Two Years ago.

Ten minutes or so in the Queue which was Three Deep at the Bar, and Hector had secured a Pint of St. Jospehi (Keesmann, Bamberg, Bayern) a 6.2% Helles Bock. A Keesmann Bock, an All Time Favourite! Presumably this is not the same Bock served up on previous Tapping Trips to Bamberg. A Maibock? This went down far too easily. Clive thought it Sweet, a bit, but not as Sweet as the Autumn Bock has become.

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Bamberg Bier Fest?

The Biers from Paulaner (München, Bayern) featured prominently. A bit Bog-Standard for this Festival. With Kölsch and Alt Bier from those well known Bamberg Suburbs of Köln and Düsseldorf, respectively, the Bamberg Connection was well and truly stretched. I suppose it did mean there was something for everyone, it also left the Bocks for us.

Bedford-Bamberg Spring Fest May9 Bier-Traveller (20)By the time a Second was required Dr. Stan had been spotted heading for the Queue at t’Bar, Richard was off and Hector had joined a Chap and Two Ladies at a table in the Inner Room. Space for all, including Jonathan who had just arrived. It was sensible for him to fetch Bier whilst I minded the table. That was the last we saw of Jonathan, for an Age.

With Dr. Stan and Clive at t’Table and the Three Companions, briefly Four, then departed, we potentially had this table to ourselves. Jonathan was still at t’Bar. Goodluck!

By the time Jonathan returned with Bier, it was Clive’s turn to go. And so we realised this was how it would be until the place calmed down.

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Table Service was rumoured, a Doris promised to serve us, disappeared, and an hour later stated there was no more table service, she couldn’t get served either.

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Bedford-Bamberg Spring Fest May9 Bier-Traveller (11)Hector started Bier #3 at 21.50. By now we had sussed that a Double Round was more efficient. The last of the Vierzehnheiligen Nothelfer Silbebrbock (Trunk, Bad Stafelstein, Bayern) at 6.8% was taken by Dr. Stan and Jonathan.  Clive and Hector moved on to the Heavy Duty Schlenkerla Eiche – Old Smoke Doppelbock (Heller, Bamberg, Bayern) at 8%. A Smoky Helles, Superb. More required.

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The same Chaps were found at the Bar on each return visit, good banter. One particular Serving Doris was by now well on board with our requirements. The service was easier by the close of play. The Don Bosco Band were in full flight. Hearing them from afar was probably better than being in the Main Room.

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Jonathan went off to track down the Manager. A comment about the difficulties in being served had to be made. I joined them after some time and was recognised from Two Years ago. Free Bier Tokens had apparently been mentioned before before I added my presence. Somehow Four Tokens ended up in my capable hands. Tomorrow, and thank you.

No Bedford Late Night Curry Houses, found last time. Did someone go for a Kebab? We’re not in Bamberg!

A Twenty Minute walk uphill to The Travelodge, or a Taxi?

The Bier Festival:

The Bedford Corn Exchange  –  Saint Paul’s Square,  Bedford, MK40 1SL

 

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Ricky’s Trip to Browar Pracownia Piwa – Kraków

We’re booked on to a Brewery Tour on Wednesday at Noon – Ricky informed Hector the day before departure. Where is it and how do we get there?

I’ll know where it is and I’ll tell you how to get there once we’ve been.

Welcome to Holden Tours

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Two Pracownia Biers had been tasted before today. Dwa Smoki, a Wit IPA at 5.8% had been sampled on Monday at the excellent Omerta Pub. A hand-pulled Cask Ale it was assumed to bScreenshot_2014-04-15-15-58-51e Smokey, not the case. Yesterday in the House of Beer we tried Crack Off, an American IPA at 4.7%. Despite being lower in Gravity this packed much much more Flavour, Unfiltered, the American Hops did their job. A Trip to Pracownia Brewery now felt justified.

Ricky and Geoff had been to the Tourist Information to have the location of the Brewery pinpointed. Somehow the Doris there was trying ot send them in the wrong direction, despite being given a postcode. Hector tried Google Maps and came up with a location to the North-West of Kraków. Kasztanowa was the given street name, just beside a major Road/Motorway Junction.

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The rendezvous for Five of us was CK Browar which is sited on the Ring Road outside the Old Town – Stare Miasto. To the North-West was how Hector recalled the location from last year. It turned out to be more West than North.

Holden Tours Bier-Traveller (2)As Ricky is in Poland every other week, he knows the Tram Network quite well. A Tram would take us some of the distance and a Bus the rest. Which Bus? Geoff was excited about the Tram journey, he likes Trams. Some, Hector in particular had suggested we just take a Taxi the whole way, with Five it wouldn’t kill us, Sat Nav would also be a bonus.

Alighting at the end of the Tram Line, Geoff recalled his last visit here in the pouring rain. The Bus stop was found, and the Bus dismissed, Ninety Minutes until the next One.

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Taxi! But from where? Ricky led us past a Pub/Cafe which had Geoff in full Story Mode. A staircase led to somewhere, Ricky tripped on an uneven bit of pavement and launched himself forward.

Pracownia Browar Trip (7)A railing at the top of the stair was grabbed at and only partially connected with. Ricky’s body was in self-propelled mode by now. He grabbed at the hand rail but still fell forward, having now taken at least four steps on the horizontal. Down he went, a Half Flight of Stairs, rolling, rolling. He came to a halt at the mid stair landing, slumped. Good-bye, Ricky. Geoff and Hector were frozen too, there are no Action  Photos. Steve and Marg were down the stairs in a flash and put Ricky back on his feet. Flushed, in Shock, Ricky was helped back to t’Cafe where Lemon Tea was ordered. Hector and Steve had Sparkling Water, Geoff a Lager. Well it was a Brewery Trip.      Lemon Tea.

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Pracownia Browar Trip (8)The Taxi

Hector negotiated the stairs with superb skill and found the Taxi Rank some Fifty Metres away. Only standard taxis were on the rank, would we squeeze into One? By the time we left the Cafe, a large taxi was on the rank. In full Hector mode, I showed Driver the Google Map on the Trusty Samsung and in my best Polish – Pracownia Browar. He headed South, the Brewery was North-West, we were still only Halfway. Eventually the Driver was persuaded that he was going the wrong way. I followed his every turn as well as the Live-Feed on Google Maps would permit. We were close to Pracownia Browar on Kastzanowa, the Driver still hadn’t a clue and was the most Uncommunicative Chap ever encountered. He went on his radio – Radio Doris clearly said – Kastzanowa. He did a U-turn and sped off down a new motorway. With Ricky pleading for him to Stop and get off T’Motorway, the road came to a Dead End, exactly as Google Maps predicted. In the front seat Hector was keeping is eyes peeled for a building which looked Brewery-like. Nothing. We pulled in, still Driver saying Nought. A Road Digger was consulted, never heard of it. By now Ricky was offering the name of a Hotel which was next to Brewery. A passing Doris confirmed we were metres away. We bailed and paid little over half of what was on the Meter, around the corner from where we had stopped before the Motorway Trek.

Marg could smell the Hops. Kasztanowa 31 was the given address. It was to the rear of a new Apartment Block. No sign-age, just the Aroma, a Pile of Pallets, and Vapour coming from a Chimney gave the clue as to where we were.

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Hi, James. We had met James the Brewer and Publican on Sunday afternoon at his newly opened TEA Time, a  Kraków Microbrewery which at this time is still not open a fortnight. We were now Six.

Brewery Doris came out into the yard and welcomed us. Her English was up to the task, just.

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We were taken through the various rooms which took us from the Wet to the Dry, passing a Fridge full of Hops. We like Hops, Citra Hops were mentioned, we like them even more.  That they gave up on New Zealand Hops disappointed.  A Couple of Brewery Workers were busy, Brewing! A Chap who turned out to be Mein Host now presented. He became the focus of the conversation.

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We saw Bier, Hops, Bottles.   Some Bottles might have had Bier in them…

We were offered no Bier, no T-shirts, though the latter are on order, allegedly.

Pracownia Browar Trip (16)We said our – Goodbyes – and left, well not quite.

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James had driven out and so Ricky, who was struggling to walk cadged a lift. We thought it better that Geoff go with them. And it came to be that Steve, Marg and Hector were abandoned somewhere North-West of Krakow.

A Bus Stop up the road revealed the next Bus was in … Ninety Minutes. I led the way back to the Main Road and spotted a Bus Stop across the way. It took ages to get over, a Waiting Doris confirmed the direction of travel. The next Bus was due in – Ninety Minutes.

Moments later, a Mini-Bus drew up, she got in and invited us to join her. We were Four, there were Four Empty Seats only. This was a Dolmus-type set-up which sped along the Highway back to Krakow.

Where were we going exactly? Waiting Doris spoke continuously to Marg who understood only One Word – Galleria. A Chap offered to translate, but didn’t. The Terminus was opposite the new shopping centre at the Train Station. Success.  Another Classic Holden Tour!

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We were to reunite at the House of Beer which opened at 14.00. It was only 13.47.

Geoff and a Ricky in pain arrived by 14.30, not expecting us to be there, for a long, long time.

Rowing Jack (Ale Browar), at 6.2%, is by far the most Hoppy, Stunning Craft Bier Hector has ever encountered. This amused us until it was time for Curry-Heute at the Indus Tandoor.

Posted in Krakow | 1 Comment

February Days & Nights in Athena

Sunday February 9

The easyJet flight from Edinburgh to Athens is available in February. All other Greek destinations only operate in the Summer months. The opperchancity of some Greek Food, German Bier, Curry, (eh?) and Sunshine make this an Irresistible Venue for part of the February Week.

Athena Feb 2014 Day1 Bier-Traveller (25)Hector knew in advance that there would be an unseasonal warmth, 19°C being forecast for much of our Four Days. Let me remind those who don’t know these things, such temperatures are recorded in the Universal Stevenson Screen, i.e. in the shade. Walking in the direct sunlight can boost the temperature markedly.

The ‘plane arrived bang on schedule. A favourable gate meant we did not have the long walk to passport control experienced two years ago. A queue, a long one. It passed quickly. Still on schedule for 22.00 Dinner it was inevitable that this was the weekend the Metro was having maintenance. No Metro at all this weekend. The X95 Bus would take longer, it also meant standing. The second time I have arrived in Athens having stood.

Athena Feb 2014 Day1 Bier-Traveller (2)The Plaka Hotel is in an Ideal Location, nearer Monastiraki than Sytagma it is also on the edge of the slope up to the Northern Edge of The Acropolis. We enjoyed our stay here two years ago despite having to take refuge from the Riots on our arrival. The Tear Gas was not fun either.

Hector led Marg to the very restaurant where we had enjoyed Traditional Greek Cuisine and a Musician on our last visit. The first restaurant on the left heading East from Monastiraki, it is always busy. Tonight was no exception. We were shown to our table near the Food Counter. I smelled something that was not Food. Not One, but Many were smoking. This is unacceptable. We left.

The remainder of the restaurants in this area may sell Oven Cooked Greek Food, I believe the majority do not. A nameless place had a non-smoking room. The Bottled Bier was Heineken, the Food Grilled – Pork and Chicken Souvlaki, Marg had the Chicken. This was not the start to The Trip I had planned. Better than 2012 when no Food or Bier was consumed, but so far, not by much.

Walking across Ermou into the Plaka Hinterland Hector located the small square on which sits Beer Time. It was late, we would be the only customers, hang on, there were people on the balcony initially. The Waitress was new, very new as would become apparent. The Lovely Lady who Cooks was still in situ. She kept Marg amused last visit with Chocolate and Other Nibbles. Bier Time sells Bier, no Coffee, Spirits. Marg ordered a Framboise. New Waitress had no idea if this came straight from a Bottle or had to be Mixed. Surprisingly she had to Mix it.

The Boss isn’t here tonight and I have no idea what I’m doing – she admitted. She was able to pour Hector a 0.4; Glass of Magnus Magister. The publicity made Hector thin this was a Swiss Helles. It turned out to be a Hellas Microbrewery – from Rhodos. Greek Bier? At 4.8% it was fine, slightly Hopped and a Strange After-taste which diminished in time. At least the After-taste was not the usual Microbrewery Yeast Taste which ruins so many efforts.

The attraction of Beer Time is their healthy Deutsche Bier Menu. I asked for Andechs Bergbock Hell, Waitress hadn’t a clue. I went up to the bar and spotted Augustiner Edelstoff. She managed to find this in the fridge. All was well. Paisley Lager to complete the evening.

Tomorrow would be a day of wandering, Curry for Lunch, Coffee and Cake for Marg, Ice Cream and hopefully Traditional Greek Cuisine for the evening Meal. There would be no Monday return to Beer Time, Monday is Ruhetag.

Monday February 10

The curtains were drawn back at 09.00. The Sky was Blue, not a Cloud. The Trusty Samsung claimed the outside Temperature was already 10°C. This jumped to 16°C by the time we had finished Breakfast. The two hour time difference, we had gone to bed and risen at the same times as GMT.

Polo-shirt, Sandals, the Hector Garb. Marg hedged her bets and took a Jacket. This was stuffed into her bag by Noon. The Sun was Warm, Comfortable, Wonderful. A Bonus.

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Athinas connects Monastriaki to Omonia. Here lies the Fish and Meat Market, Fascinating. The Pet Shops lie on this stretch too. Pet Shops in Greece actually sell Pets. Marg was in her element. Caged Birds may be Moderately Interesting, so too Reptiles. But let a Lady pick up a Puppy, and, well, it’s just as well we were abroad.

With Marg in a Happy Place, it was time to turn the corner into Geraniou and make a Return Curry-Heute Visit to the Dhaka Palace. This put Hector in a Happy Place too.

After lunch We went exploring to the Northern Extremities of Our Patch then hiked back to Plaka.

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to be continued… one day…

 

 

 

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Köln – Weihnachtsmarkt – Tag 1

Amsterdam bore no resemblance to my first ever visit back in 1964. Then everything was Frozen, this morning everything was Soaking. The ICE was waiting for Hector on Platform 2. Lord Clive and Lady Maggie were travelling #1, Hector was wedged with everyone else. After Utrecht there was not a seat to be had on the train.

Jonathan had flown down to Köln earlier and so once again would be waiting for us. The First Curry-Heute of the Trip was completed, The Rhein St. Martin Hotel checked into and all was set.

This Hotel was chosen for both Price and Location. Hector has always wanted to stay in the Altstadt. This Hotel is on the Waterfront at the corner of the Riverside Square. Ideal in Winter when the windows are closed, I imagine Summer Nights could be lively outside. The Bier Museum and the Haxenahus are metres away. The Rhein St. Martin closes for two weeks over the Festive Season. We don’t need the drinking brigade is what the Receptionist and Breakfast Lady told me.

Maggie and Hector arrived at the Traditional Meeting Point – The Glühwein  Stand opposite Gaffel in the Alter Markt. Clive had arrived just before us. Not being able to check-in to the Ibis Barabrossaplatz he had retired to our old favourite haunt – Reissdorf at Klein Griechenmarkt for his first Kölsch. Smoking is still permitted in the main room. We stopped going there because of this, the new premises at the Altes Brauhaus in Köln-Sud are much Gemuchtlich.

Jonathan had started his Glühwein intake at the Dom end of the Alter Markt. Our Traditional Stall had moved. The original site was now the entrance to the Rathaus U-Bahn Station. After years of holes-in-the-ground and the fabled Blue Pipe running everywhere, the stretch from the Dom to Heumarkt is complete.

We Decanted further down towards Heumarkt. In previous years the thermals have been very much required. Today was unseasonably warm. Hector had left a Layer at the Hotel. The Ice Rink has been extended, there’s even a Bridge over it – cue some Aerial Photography.

The next Glühwein was Watery. Jonathan complained. The Doris exchanged four Cups of Red for White. People have been telling us this today – she informed us. We don’t know what’s wrong. The White Glühwein was too Sweet. Let’s move on, but not before Clive decided to Gatecrash some Photos. In the end they insisted he was in them. No photographic record of a Koln Visit is complete without Photos of Lord Clive of Crawley.

On the far side of the Ice Rink order was restored. Maggie went Shopping and bought a Bouncy Owl. The only Weihnachtsmarkt Purchase from the Markt. Why exactly were we here?

Bier O’Clock

Mühlen was the closest Bräuhaus. All the Tables were Reserved, except one. That was ours.

The Kölsch diluted the Glühwein and so we jumped on the Tram to Rudolphplatz to Top Up. It was strange seeing this Markt without Snow. Perhaps the Best Atmosphere of the Day so far. The City Walls add an Imposing Backdrop.

Jonathan is the U Bahn Expert. Hector has a Holiday from dragging people around. Chlodwigplatz next and Köln-Sud. We encountered a Couple on the U Bahn with the Biggest TV ever seen on Public Transport. This was a true – Fuckoff TV!. We couldn’t walk past Früh am Wiedel.

The North Side is finally smoke-free and so we stood here. The South Side again was busy and reserved. Maggie had to get her Photo taken with the Kobi. It appears that Lord Clive and Lady Maggie may now prefer having their Photos taken with Strangers.

The short walk up Severinstrasse took us to the Altes Brauhaus, the New Reissdorf. Music greeted us from within. The sign at the door said – Sod-Off. Well that was my translation. A Private Function? On the Saturday night at the start of the Festive Season? Das ist nicht Richtig.

And so Maggie and Hector had their second Curry-Heute, this time accompanied by Clive and Jonathan across the road at the Reliable – Indian Curry Basmati House.

Maggie’s Book

Maggie was now feeling the strain and desired to see her hotel room, which so far she hadn’t. She declared a desire  – To read. Clive, the Dashing, Ever-faithful Husband, alighted at Barbarossaplatz. Jonathan and Hector carried on in the U Bahn to Friesenplatz, the location of the real Paffgen. At Friesenplatz all four directions look the same. I narrowed it down to Two and chose the wrong one. All Bar One is the usual Landmarq, The Big Coca Cola Sign is a further clue. On a fork to the left lies Päffgen   the Driest of all the Kölsch.

The Kobi was as efficient as the custom requires. The 0.2l glasses kept coming. Clive was texted with precise instructions as to how and where to rendezvous. What Coca Cola sign? – he asked later.

By the Rivers of Babylon

Jonathan was now feeling the pain of his early rise for the AmsterdamKöln  Flight and he headed back to Messe/Deutz. Clive and Hector alighted at the new Rathaus U Bahn Station. Back to the start.

Sion could not be passed but we had an eye on the clock for access to the Früh am Dom Keller. We tend to overlook the wonder that is this Bräuhaus. Rarely do we pass the seats at the door. Beyond lies a magnificent room. New Polo Shirts were spotted. Next summer we must make a point of Remembering Sion.

Bye Bye, My Love

The Früh Keller has long been a Favourite Köln Venue. The Company brought in New Year at this very locus some six years back. Another chance to reminisce about the Lost Hour, when Craig and Yvonne could not find the Exit.

The smoking ban was relaxed here after a certain time of evening on our last visit. Tonight we could breath. Yay! This just leaves the original Reissdorf to see the light. Getting a table was not a problem. The noise level rose considerably after we sat down, it wisnae’ us. Früh is regarded by many as Second to Reissdorf. The latter has more Body, slightly more Malty. Yet there are those who won’t touch the stuff.

For years a Night in the Fruh Keller has ended with a very loud broadcast of Bye Bye, My Love. Clive went to ask the Doris on Duty, her Level of Indifference was at the Classic Level.

Bye Bye, My Love?, Aye Right.

Hector does prefer Altbier these days.

 

The Brewery Taps visited today:

Mühlen  – Heumarkt 6, 50667, Köln, Deutschland 

Päffgen  –  Friesenstraße 64, 50670 Köln

Brauhaus Sion  –  Unter Taschenmacher 5,   50667, Köln

Früh am Dom  –  Am Hof 12-18  50667, Köln

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Amsterdam – The Shortest Day

Hector is on Vacation!

How I love to record these words. The Weinachtsmarkts in Köln are the Main Objective for the Weekend, but there was a Curry-Heute Sub-agenda which took Hector to Amsterdam for a Stopover. Jonathan flew out an hour before my scheduled slot with KLM. Clive and Maggie would arrive an hour after Hector from Crawley International.

The Staff Lunch went on and on. As a result I found myself at Glasgow Airport earlier than planned, no visit to The Sir Howard Young in Helensburgh. The Security Queue was the shortest I have ever witnessed at this Airport, so much for the xmas Exodus.

Flight Delayed

The Plan was to arrive in the Centre of Amsterdam by 21.00 giving plenty of time for a Night Out. The 75 Delay on the Board became Two Hours. How come my Trusty Samsung was able to flag this up before the Airport Information Board did so? Two Hours became Two and a Half.

It was 21.00 (Amsterdam Time) when the ‘Plane left Glasgow. No time for Curry-Heute and a rather Incredulous Jonathan was waiting at In de Wildeman. We should have arrived here Zusamen. Clive and Maggie took the Wrong Train at Schipol and ended up in Utrecht. They arrived at In de Wildeman two minutes after Hector. Jonathan had less than an Hour with us before his Courtesy Bus at Schipol would stop. At least he had tried some of the Bier.

The Board

I have seen  Better Boards at this Venue, though Sister Doris was tempting. No Pils for Hector. Ayinger? Never touch it. I was told the Golden Carolus tasted of Liquorice, no thanks.

Nogne Pale Ale at 6% was recommended. At €5.00 per 0.25l this place is not cheap. I ordered four. The Chap said he would bring them up to what has become – Our Table. OK, it’s Thirty Months since my last visit. The Nogne had a decent Tang, On a longer visit there would have been more, but Hector was now on a mission.

De Prael was up next. Nick and Simon IPA at 6.2%, as good a name as any. This had an Acid After-taste that was heading towards a Geuze. It was neither IPA or Geuze.

Maggie had joined Jonathan in the Ayinger Celebrator Doppelock at a more modest 6.9%. This was now recommended. Meanwhile Clive and Hector would otherwise have considered the La Trappe Blond, 6.5%, to be the Session Bier of the evening.

This had a good Banana Hit which was unexpected. And so to the Doppelbock. Even Ayinger must be able to make a Strong, Dark Bier. Indeed, Pleasant, not Over-sweet, but the Microscopic Portions were now proving to be a Point of Frustration. Whilst Maggie nursed her Doppelbock, Hector suggested to Clive that we had a Pint.

London Pride was on offer, but the Doppelbock had not numbed the brain cells that much.

And so Weihenstephaner Weisse (Freising, Bayern), 5.4% satisfied the Criterion. I could have this for less at home any night of the week. Drinking a Deutsche Bier in Nederland? The Bananas were Big, the Quantity Spot on. It was now after 01.00, they shut at 02.00. We were not last out.

The Ibis Styles proved to be Quiet and Comfortable. There were Cheaper Rooms available, however, every Budget Hotel in  Amsterdam has a Lousy Review from somebody. At least with the Ibis Chain one knows what to expect. In this City, one should be prepared to either stay Cheaply at Schipol or pay the Premium to be near Centraal.

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Dr. Stan, Dr. Hansjörg, Dr. Rick and Dr. Who?

We gathered today for a very important reason that will be discussed publicly at a later time. Dr. Rick set things in motion on Thursday when he pointed out that due to the – unseasonal heatwave – which Glasgow has experienced this week, The Bier would be warm today unless it was properly chilled. When Craig and Yvonne host a Barrel Party in December, Nature usually chills the Bier. This meant Hector had to ferry Barrels of Löwenbräu (Buttenheim) Bockbier 6.3% and Pyraser Landbier to Friendly Fridges across The City. Jonathan and Dr. Stan would be responsible for today’s transport, however post Curry-Heute, Lord Clive of Crawley joined Howard, Tracey and Dr. Stan in a taxi to The Southside. The Weather today is horrible. Robin reached his bus stop and went home, Soaked. Kenny arrived without his better half. Two call-offs, The majority made it. How many were we?

Counting Heads

Hector was given responsibility for collecting the funds for the Curry-Heute to be delivered from Yadgar, as well as the Bier Subscription. This was conducted early in the day with total efficiency, then we found ourselves Loadsa’ Money short. A quick head count did not solve this. Yvonne wrote out the names of those present and those – to come. This confused us further. Craig matched the names to the bodies. Steve was here twice. Eventually it was sussed. We were 17. Just as well this ritual was not conducted later in the day.

There was Bier Drinking

Löwenbräu Bockbier, Hansi’s finest. The last time Hector tasted this superb Bock was after a visit to the Source in Buttenheim  when Hansi gave Dr. Stan and Hector a Bottle each – Prior to the Tapping. This was the first experience vom Fass. And superb it was too, just a hint of the sweetness that is ruining some of the Bamberg Bockbier in recent years.

The Pyraser is now standard fare. Jonathan exchanges an empty for a full 30l Barrel each time he drives to Bayern. We are spoiled. Again, this Bier is on the edge of sweet, but chilled to perfection it retains its edge. The plan was to alternate between the two, some I believe drank only Bock and may have come to regret it.

Has Bernard gone yet?

Bernard made a brief appearance. We always enjoy when Bernard makes a Brief Appearance. Dr. Rick, yes, he who is a member of the Higgs-Boson Discovery Team, has a famous story about the validity of Public Transport Tickets in Wiesbaden. Today we met Dr. Hansjörg who first related this information to Dr. Rick. The circle is complete. Except for Euan who had mysteriously met Dr. Hansjörg previously. Euan was having – hop-rush – today after his weeks in the wilderness of Aberdeen. Oh no, Hector is Aberdeen-bound soon. The Hopless City.

Craig managed to produce a bottle of Dark Matter for Dr. Rick. So he has found this better than Sheffield University haven’t?

Dr. Rick – R.I.P.

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Return to the Drovers Rest, Monkhill

Fifteen of The Company were due to rendezvous for the 09.40 London train, Twelve made it. Bergbock Hell may have finished off Two last night, Euan had his times all wrong.

As we crossed over the River Clyde we could see the lines of Fire and Rescue Vehicles attending the scene of the Clutha where tragically a helicopter crashed last night. People went out for a Bier, some never went home… Tragic.

We had met up with Sandy, the new Proprietor of the Drovers Rest just outside Carlisle at the SIBA day at Staveley. He promised us Hawkhead’s NZPA (Stavely, Cumbria). 6.0%? After last night, no problem. We will go anywhere that guarantees to serve the Ale which was voted Glasgow CAMRA’s Beer of the Year. To describe the Citrus Flavour properly one has to refer to Grapefruit. Robin and The Duke love their Grapfruit. Yvonne declared this to be better than main rival Oakham’s Green Devil (Peterborough, Cambridgeshire). Both have set the Standard, it is up to the other breweries to compete. As everyone in the West of Scotland knows – there’s no demand for Strong, Pale, Hoppy Bier.

St. Andrew’s Day

It was Yvonne’s Directive that the See You Jimmy Hats, normally reserved for New Year should make an appearance today.  Only Howard, Hector and Yvonne herself complied, though Craig managed to wear one for most of the day.

Mac the Dog

Sandy and Sarah’s pet remembered us and spent most of the afternoon sniffing out any possible food sources. Do dogs pose for Photos? Mac does.

Euaned, again

Euan had reportedly jumped on the next train to Carlisle. Nobody going to Carlisle gets on a train with this as the End Stop. Two plus hours later he reached the Terminus then had to fork out in a taxi to Monkhill, ouch. He came, but there were no Pump Clips displaying NZPA. Sandy was a Willing Complicitor on changing the Pump Clip as Euan entered.

I recommended he try to Carlisle Brewery Bitter… Nice to be Nice.

Neil presented Yvonne with a sealed DVD, the final episodes of Breaking Bad.  Yvonne will be staying in tomorrow.

St. Andrew’s Day Menu

Some had Food. The Food looked very appealing, well presented, however in the end I decided not to. A Curry-Heute was not guaranteed but at £12.50 for a Main Course, a bit Pricey, Sandy.

Some went to play Pool. This became a Photo Opperchancity.  Meanwhile Sandy took time to explain the workings of the latest means of dispensing Guinness.  For the best part of Twenty Years, the only Domestic Beer Hector would touch was Stout.

Sonic Guinness

At 18.00 the arranged Taxis came to transfer us back to Carlisle. We hadn’t finished The Ale. We’ll have to return another day and take on The Challenge again.

Marg met Hector at Glasgow Central, we had tickets for Pallas and Comedy of Errors, Scotland’s Two Finest Progressive Rock Bands.

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