Andechs Bergbock Hell – Bier & Food

The Bier

Normally when we have a Barrel Party there is Curry-Heute involved. Not every Barrel Party is reported. The Company does well to source the Best of Deutsches Bier, Kenny announced some weeks back that he was confident Olaf would supply a Barrel of Andechs (Kloster Andechs, Bayern) Bergbock Hell at a mere 6.9%.

This is the Third Barrel Kenny has hosted in the past year, we now have Five Venues where such events can be held. Finding the address in the Riverside Flats can be a Nightmare. Dr. Rick was making his first visit and had to be talked along the Clyde, it wasn’t Rocket Science.

The Barrel had just been Tapped when I entered. The Hand pump was making the Bier High, Patience. Compared to the recent Barrel of Spaten Oktoberfest (Spaten, München, Bayern) the Bergbock Hell was on the sweeter Side of the Taste Spectrum. With the Body guaranteed at 6.9% this would make for a very Pleasant Evening. The Company was in double figures so the 30l would easily be managed.

 

The Food

Kenny was busy cooking Bratwurst mid-evening. These would accompany a very fine Wurstsalat he had prepared earlier. Given the Frequency of German Visits in the past decade, Hector does not go out of his way to eat Deutsche Essen. Whenever I have cooked Bratwurst they have disappointed. Kenny had them spot on. That I went back for more Wurstsalat is the Highest Complement I can give The Chef.

Judging by the Happy Facial Expressions, everyone was having a great time. The majority of The Company had in their back of their minds the need to catch a train at Glasgow Central at 09.40 in the morning. Sense and Sensibility, not!

We don’t know why some refer to Dr. Stan as – Big Stan.

His name is Alan.

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Morning in München, then Tegernsee – The Other Hofbräuhaus

Everyone who stays at the Hotel Royal always praises the Breakfast. Not a Breakfast Person, even Hector enjoys the Fresh Fruit Salad, Plain Yoghurt and Walnuts that are available from the Buffet. It is a result of mixing San Pellegrino with Fresh Orange that I now have this as my Kick-start to every day. I will admit to not not being able to resist some Nürnberg Sausages.

The Hauptbahnhof was the first port of call today. A Bayern Ticket for Two was purchased, this would also enable us to use the S Bahn and U Bahn as we pleased for the rest of the day. The Underground Passageways under the Hauptbahnhof are currently being upgraded. What a mess, they will certainly be completed to the impressive standard that has been set under Karlsplatz-Stachus where the transformation is remarkable. It was Tired having pre-dated Hector’s first ever München Experience in 1976.

We took the U Bahn to Universitaat emerging outside another of Marg’s Favourite Cafés – CADU. We passed this by pro tem and headed into the Englischer Garten, Gluhwein at the Chineser Turm is what we do. This Heralded the Official Start of Winter. A pity it was such a dull day, there were still leaves on the trees, maybe it was not quite Winter.

CADU has a heated Outside area which is now as much Inside as Out. The Heaters made it unbearably warm, we headed straight into the Interior. Dieter had a table booked for 14.00, many had ignored this table on seeing the Reservierung, no problem, our train was at 14.00, this was perfect.

Tomato Soup for Hector and Cheese’n’Bagel for Marg, with Sparkling Water and Tea respectively. Doris even managed to give Hector instructions in how to access the Wi-fi. All was well with the World.

The 14.10 Bayerische Oberland Bahn (BOB) to Tegensee is in three parts. At Holzkirchen the train is split in two. The Alternative Destination is Bayerischzell, been there once. A couple of stops later the train splits again, Lanngries. One has to make sure that one is in the correct carriage. Announcements are made in English also. The journey can be Spectacular, especially in Autumn and Winter, but not today.

Arriving at Tegernsee everyone heads downhill towards the Town proper, the Lake and the Tegernsee Hofbräuhaus. In Summer, a sail on the Lake has been contemplated. Not today. The Curry House was located en route, we would dine at the Mirch Masala later. I was amused to find a second Curry House, Janet. It is quite some time since I have ventured beyond the Brewery Tap. Indeed in recent visits to München when The Chaps have come to Tegernsee, Marg and I have stayed in the City.

A new Board-walk has been installed since our last time, this took us further than we have ever been before. Marg spotted a Roaring Fire in a Café/Restaurant, she wanted in. The Staff at the Kreutzkamm were most welcoming. We took the table beside the Fire but sat at the far end. Hector drinking Hot Chocolate, in Tegernsee? This immediately became another of Marg’s Favourite Places. She wants to come back. That’s next November taken care of.

The Board-walk took us back towards the Hofbräu Brewery Tap. We passed what used to be the end of the stroll. Much better.

Marg suggested we visit the Shop which sells the Tegernsee Merchandise, something they have better organised than many Breweries. Hector was treated to a new Garment which will not be revealed until the Festive Season. And People go around with Hollister and Camp David on their clothes when they could ave something from here?

The House was busy but not Stowed. Today’s Doris served Marg a 0.5l Glass of Apfelschorle which looked remarkably like Bier. Hector was served the Tegernsee Spezial Hell. At 5.6% not the most Potent, it went down very easily with only the slightest hint of Sweetness on the front of the tongue and totally dry at the back. I didn’t come all this way for One Bier.

Burn The Witch

There was time to write a Postcard or two to those who might miss being here.

The efficient Wi-fi even permitted Marg and Hector to watch a Ronald Villiers sketch.  What ever became of Widdecombe and Pump?

There was a Curry-Heute

Back in München there was a Nightcap at the Augustiner Braustuben. The scene of two New Year Parties, Hector has not made it to his Venue this year. Edelstoff, again at 5.6% at The Brewery Tap, and at a very affordable price. A bit out of town and the price plummets.

We arrived to find a Band just finishing their session. Marg chose the table right beside them. What was the focus became a backwater very quickly. Time to fade. How much had we packed in to two days and three nights?  What are these Green Things hanging from the roof?  Maybe Euan can tell us.

The Cafés and Brewery Taps visited today:

Cafe an der Uni – CADU – Ludwigstrasse 24, 80539, München

Kreutzkamm – Kreutkamm am See, Hauptstrasse 45, 83684, Tegernsee, Bayern

Tegernsee Hofbräuhaus – Schlossplatz 1, 83684, Tegernsee, Bayern

Augustiner Braustuben – Landsberger Strasse 19, 80339, München

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München in November – Shopping?

The 06.30 flight from Gatwick to München, Marg and Hector have become regulars on this flight over the last few years. Ironically, easyJet now have an 18.00 Friday evening flight from Edinburgh directly, but this was not the schedule when we booked. 18.00 is also on the cusp of accessibility. To make matters even more frustrating, our Monday flight back to Edinburgh with easyJet was cancelled some time back. The only Monday this has occurred. I have no explanation and none was given. So BA it will be home, Avios comes in handy.

We arrived at the Hotel Royal (Schillerstarsse) just after 10.30. We were in our room by 11.00. This is service. Unusually, the S Bahn from the Airport arrived at Platform 26 in the Main Station, The Way to Arrive. The Glockenspiel at Marienplatz was just about to begin its 12.00 performance as we passed through. We had better things to do and its only four weeks since our last witnessing of this Traditional Display. Marienplatz was full of Wooden Huts. The Weihnachtsmarkt is due to start in a couple of weeks. Huts were being dropped off everywhere we went. Hector will be in Köln in five weeks time, there will be further reports from the Bier-Traveller.

Caffe Piemonte

Marg loves it here. There are many Cafés in München in this style. Given our limited stay, we tend to go to the tried and tested. White Hot Chocolate – The Hot Orgasm – as Hector so crudely describes it. Should I have this before Curry? I regretted it two years ago, today I was in the mood. Last month Marg had the slice of Cake from Hell at this Venue. Today she decided Lunch would be Coffee and Apfelstrudel with Vanilla Sauce.

Hector had other plans for Lunch. The Fisch Chettinad at the Indian Mango is a Hector Highlight in any München Trip. (Beware, closed on Mondays and over the New Year period) We walked briskly through the Viktualienmarkt and booked our table for this evening’s meal at Der Schorr. It’s November, that’s where we dine.

Lunch over it was time to Shop. With a BA Flight back, an extra Bag had been brought just in case we were bursting at the seams. Marg disappeared into the Basement of the Kaufhof on Kaufinger Strasse. Hector went upstairs to the Herren Department. Over the years I have made some decent purchases here. Not today. It was all Jeans and Hideous Clothing with Random Writing. Camp David? David may well be Camp, why wear this? At least Hollister appears to be dying, how do the Thousands who wander the streets with this Logo emblazoned on their clothing feel now? German Breweries, that could become a New Fashion.

Dressed for Cool Weather, Hector was Cooking inside the Kaufhof and so announced his departure. In the past we would have had to stick together like glue, technology is useful. Marg appeared with some modest purchases. C&A, clearly marked, as the old underwear joke goes, sold some really down-market clothing. Nothing here for Hector either. What has been a building site for a couple of years now had two new stores. Forever 21 was dreadful – Kack – at high prices. The Sports Store next door was massive and sold nothing of any interest. We buy our Trainers in Bradford, next door to the Hilton. What Hector was looking for in every store was not on offer. Outdoor Clothing appears to be Skiing over here, not Clothes for Cool Weather.

Marg wanted to see the small shops parallel to the Man Drag, the places we pass at night walking the Back-Route from the Hofbräuhaus. Remember Bier? Not yet.

Fading Fast

It was finally Bier O’Clock. Knowing that this evening I would be sampling the Pschorr Helles served from Holzfass (Straight form the Barrel, as we have a tour Barrel Parties), I did not fancy being served Pumped Bier. Marg fancied Gluhwein.

Let’s try Augustiner am Dom, Dr. Stan’s Favourite Venue. They serve Bier in the Direkt manner. We have been there with Dr. Stan. And so we entered, took a seat, no Gluhwein. We left and crossed over to Andechs am Dom. They had Gluhwein but insisted we stood in the Smoky Pit if we were not there to order food too. We left without establishing that they still don’t sell Spezial Hell. For the Quintillionth time, there’s no demand…

We went back to the Augustiner am Dom and realised that this was not actually it. We were next door in the Nürnberger Bratwurst Glöckl am Dom, and we had been here with Dr. Stan. I’m lost too. Marg had Coffee, Hector finally had a Bier, or two. Very Cool, Very Pleasant, not Sweet, Not Gassy, and not as Strong as Edelstoff. Dr. Stan insists this is the Better Bier.

A German Couple sat on the Opposite Corner of our table and ordered everything on the Menu, well so it appeared. Three Ladies joined us, one had been Resident in München since 1972, all were Scottish. They wanted Duck, Hector established Ente was on the Menu. The Couple Opposite did not have Duck. The Duck looked Tasty, but Splashy.

Time for some ZZZs.

Dinner was booked for 20.00, we were punctual. Our upstairs table was on the back wall so we were not overlooking The Action. The Fear of Heights was therefore not an issue either. Marg ordered Veal Meatballs, Hector the Killer Wiener Schnitzel. This comes as two Pieces, each larger than most Single Servings. Well, I only had Fish for Lunch.

We were well looked after by Doris who kept the Helles coming. Marg did have a Weisswein Spritzer. Then there was Creme Brulee. We thought we had seen Creme Brulee before, this was on a New Level – and Marg thinks I have Large Portions? I only wish my Diet permitted…

We have been here for Coffee in the mornings and for Evening Meals in Large Company. The place always impresses. Although a bit Pricier than other Venues, the Food is always of High Quality, albeit Traditional German Cooking, and the Service impresses. Until Next November.

Once upon a time one would never have considered walking n to the Hofbräuhaus at 22.00 and expect to secure a seat. Since the Smoking Ban was introduced this famous Bierhalle is a much more sedate affair. Traditional Musik, no Vocals this evening ether. We sat at the table we have occupied for the past two years, so the Calendar Photos will be pretty similar. The First Bier is always the hardest to get as one does not know which Bert is serving a particular table. It did take ten minutes t get served, not impressive. Helles to start, always worth it,but then I stared at the table opposite. Hector has not had the Dunkels here for some years. That is no longer the case. Bert did bring more Helles, he was promptly dispatched.

The Dunkels was possibly even Drier than the Helles, a good call. Next time it will be Dunkels to start.

There is no truth in the rumour that Hector was last out of the Hofbräuhaus. This also gave me the Opperchancity to take Photos of an Empty Bierhalle.

There was no stop-off at the Sports Bar. Morgen vielleicht.

The Cafes and Restaurants visited today:

Caffe Piemonte – Petersplatz 9, 80331 München

Nürnberger Bratwurst Glöckl am Dom – Frauenplatz 9, 80331, München

Der Schorr – Viktualienmarkt 15, 80331, München

Hofbräuhaus – Platzl 9, 80331, München

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Remembrance Sunday at The Volunteer Arms, aka The Staggs – Musselburgh

This was Hector’s first trip to The Staggs on this Day of Memorial. Katie, Mein Hostess has been counting down the days in anticipation of the Beer Festival that is the Highlight of their Year. On this day – It is Written – only Ales are sold (along with Soft Drinks), no Fizzy Lagers, Wine or Spirits. For one day a year The Staggs is exclusively a Real Ale Bar.  All Ales cost £3.30 and we were encouraged to order by Tap Number. It took me back…

No Trains

Hector had a Cunning Plan. We needed to travel from Waverley to Musselburgh without out normal train connection. Why not arrange a taxi to collect us from Musselburgh, we would be serve, and avoid extortionate Edinburgh Hackney Prices? It was made so. We permitted entry on arrival at 12.20 but Nigel, Mein Host, correctly waited until the stroke of 12.30 before serving.

Salopian Hop Twister (Shrewsbury, Shropshire) at 4.5% was a gentle start to the day. Cool and Refreshing it went down well as a Starter Ale, however after Hawkshead (Hawkshead, Cumbria) in Glasgow on the two previous days, it lacked the anticipated Hops. A Strange Ale is Hop Twister, some times it comes over as Hoppy, at others it misses the spot.

Citra from Great Heck (Goole, Yorkshire) at the same 4.5% was an instant Hop and Citrus Hit. I almost felt a Pilgrimage coming on, alas Goole is east of Pontefract, a town Hector singularly failed to find thanks to an unforgiving road network.

Edinburgh CAMRA were poorly represented initially, however, Numbers soon turned up.

Jim Lawrie passed round photos of Glasgow Pubs taken some twenty years ago. Many were Eastenders, who drinks there? Jim produced his latest Book about the very Pub in which we were sitting. Called simply – The Staggs – it is due for publication shortly. He handed over Freebies of a previous book – Honesty Brewing – covering the History of Breweries and Maltings in Musselburgh and Fisherrow. Hector received his copy – Gracefully.

Eddie and Charlie, our Favourite Locals were in Good Form today. Graeme, former barman and now a Brewer at Tempest (Scottish Borders) was also in the house. The Staggs was Stowed. And everyone drinking Ale, Quality Ale, the majority Pale and Hoppy and some even over 5.%   There’s no demand for…

It was time for the joint best Ale of the moment – Green Devil IPA (Oakham, Peterborough, Cambridgeshire) at a splendid 6.0%. Nigel had not guaranteed this would be on, there were many others Ales promised, but so few hours to consume the Ale. Robin considered a return trip tomorrow.

It isn’t everyday one gets to buy the Current National Chairman of CAMRA an Ale, today Hector managed this.

Our taxi collected us at 19.00 as arranged and returned us to Waverley. For the record, the Glasgow CAMRA Chaps were not the first to leave as one person from The East predicted…

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SIBA Staveley 2013

Today finds Hector in England for the day. It is somewhat ironic for the same price Trips to Deutschland were once possible, even famously a Day Trip. Stavely in the heart of the Lake District is the home of the Hawkshead Brwery. The Hawkshead Festival days feature a good array of Ales, not just their own. Today under the auspices of The Society of Independent Brewers, another Festival is the attraction, a chance to try something new and enjoy one of the Best Ales of the Moment at Source.

Jonathan and Robin have been down here since Thursday so they had recommendations. Cosmic by Blakemere (Northwich, Cheshire) was one of these. It never came – we were told by a Barperson. Our friends drank it yesterday. – was our reply.  Jonathan did end up some bottles of the sought after Cosmic.

The Hector Rant

The Trusty Samsung informed Hector that the train from Glasgow was running on time, Oxenholme was was minutes away. What I then discovered put me into orbit. We would miss the connection to Staveley by three minutes, the next train was over an hour after our scheduled arrival. As it happened we saw the late departure of the 11.18 as we pulled into Oxenholme at 11.22. Who designs a train timetable like this? This was a wind-up and I was truly wound up.

To pass the hour The Party walked up the hill to the Station Inn which was certainly more than the advertised three minutes away, even at The Hector Pace. A Complementarity Soda Water was gratefully received, I’m going to a Beer Festival, I don’t want to contaminate the Palate. Yvonne had the last half pint of Moorhouse (Burnley, Lancashire) Blond Witch. The rest of The Company was Euaned!

Euan has moved North to the land where Hops rarely frequent. A Photo of what he was missing was sent up to him. Nice to be Nice, or as is our philosophy – It is not enough the We enjoy ourselves. Other must suffer.

Jonathan, Robin and The Brothers had the table at the window held for us. The Party of Ten was now Fourteen with one more to come. Somehow Dr. Stan was not with us. He had also been down in the previous days and had headed North yesterday. Kenny was a late call off. Space was tight, Howard and Tracey found no room in The Beer Hall and had to sit outside. At least they were under cover. They were also therefore seated at the Bar which the Early Birds had told us housed the Best Ales.

Hawkshead’s very own NZPA had to kick the day off. A Seasonal Brew, this ticks all the boxes. At 6.0% it has to be respected. Hops and Citrus, what The Chaps seek, and with the New Zealand Hops, absolutely crammed with Flavours. The Glasgow CAMRA Beer of the Year, and deservedly so. George did not start with this but was soon a Fellow Traveller.

The first of the Recommended Ales tried was SIP at 5.4% (First Chop, Salford, Greater Manchester). Again this was Dry, Bitter with the much appreciated Citrus. A winner on any other day. This was served in the Outside Bar, so a chance to say – Hi – to Howard and Tracey, The Outside Bar-staff upset Mags by refusing to serve her at the Side where the Fonts were. It was Mags’ turn to have a rant.

Hardknott’s (Millom, Cumbria) Azimuth at 5.8% had a hint of Citrus but did have the Hops. A very pleasant Ale, which again on any other day…

Sandy from the Drovers Rest (Monkhill, Cumbria) arrived mid-afternoon to do some Research. He knows the Ales we like and will no doubt have something Special for us when we make a return visit at the end of November. He assures us The Locals will be out to observe just how a Cask can be done in an afternoon.

Craig, Alan and George spent a good bit out of time outside with Howard and Tracey who had now met up with a like-minded Couple. When The Brothers departed there was enough space inside, however, it never really happened. Neil also appears to have been converted to The Style. His Traditional Dark Ales did not make an appearance. NZPA is too much of an attraction it appears.

There was quite a crowd on the Staveley Platform when Hector caught up with everyone. Craig, Yvonne, Alan, Mags, and George had a tight connection to make back to Glasgow. Hector was again not a Happy Chap when some Yobs held the doors open on the Down Train. If it’s late going Down to Windermere, it could be late back. I had already seen a train depart today that I wanted to be on, not again please.

Ronnie, Neil, Howard and Tracey had seen the Hector Logic in waiting for the more comfortable and faster Virgin Train. This meant consuming some of Hawkshead’s 5 Hops in the waiting Room, this is becoming something of a Tradition. Howard had a treat for us on the journey back. Who knows what it was, the Label was Handwritten…

Meanwhile Jonathan and Robin headed back to Lancaster. What a splendid idea. I wish I had at least gone down on the Friday night and not have to miss the optimum train from Oxenholme at the start of the day.

The Brewery Tap and Pub visited today:

Station Inn  –  Oxenholme  Kendal, Cumbria, LA9 7RF

The Beer Hall – Mill Yard, Staveley, Cumbria, LA8 9LR

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Time to Kick The Can down to München and Perlach

One Night in München, Two Days

Fortunately the flight back was not until late the next day. Unfortunately the fast train from Bamberg connects with the slow train from Nürnberg so it was again mid-afternoon before we hit The Town. It’s as if DB were trying to entice you to buy tickets for the ICE? The was a huge hole in the ground on Goethe Strasse where The Dolomit, our Alternative Hotel is. Thankfully the Hotel was on the other end of the Block.

Marg and Maggie had Coffee and Cake as their priority. Hector’s priority was Curry-Heute at the Indian Mango, one of his Favourite Curry Houses, Anywhere. They are not open in the afternoon and so I had to accompany Clive for a Bier at the Augustiner Grossgastätte. Is Edelstoff Sweet? On the first sample it was, slightly, and then it wasn’t. Was the service here Good? It certainly was not, the Young Waiter was simply not doing his job. We even had to leave the exact cash on the table because he wasn’t around.

After a Wonderful Curry it was on to the S Bahn to Perlach. Here lies one of the Great Bier Outlets of München, the Forschungsbrauerei (Research Brewery). It used to close mid October until the Spring, it is now open all year. The St. Jacobus Blonder Bock at a very demanding 7.6% was well in keeping with the Aims of this Trip.

We were given a choice of two tables tucked away in the corner off the main room. This is very much a Locals Establishment, or for Those Who Know. Doris refused to find out the Wi-fi Code, we used to have it, but our phones are all new since last visit. She did supply two and a half litres of Bock. A Half Litre after 16.00? Again this used to not be the case. The Penny is slowly starting to drop.

Maggie though the Bock was truly Outstanding. Clive and Hector were not saying too much. This became my Favourite München Bier despite its tendency to wipe people out. The Palate has drifted towards Citrus and Hops since my last visit. The St. Jacobus was Sweet. A second could not be considered. We would have had to stay the rest of the night to finish a second. Time to come down off the mountain. Meanwhile Marg was amused with Deutches Wein.

Back in the City, Marg had an early night, she knew what happens next. It is written.

As reported every time Hector sets foot in Andechs am Dom, they do not sell Spezial Hell, yet the Nürnberg outlet does. I asked Bert. His reply was the usual – On alternate Tuesday afternoons when there are two Moons in the Sky – well I think that’s what he said. The Weizen ain’t too shabby.

We took Advice

Howard was contacted to inform him that The Spezial Hell was still not available. Should we stay for another Weizen here, or head straight to The Sports Bar. The reply was Simple and Welcome – Both! We were only obeying instructions…

Franziskaner (Spaten, München ) is the Bier of Choice here. Possibly the first ate Night Bar in the area around the Hauptbahnhof, this has become the Halfway-House to Home for some twenty five years. The Bert, a Rod Stewart lookalike, and Doris who work here recognise us despite our Sporadic attendance. Tonight Rod Stewart had a greater resemblance to Ronnie Wood. Cue a Photo.

One Chap came in and pulled himself up by his own bootstraps. His Bier was removed moments after it was delivered. He was removed shortly afterwards. No nonsense here. A Group of Young Chaps from East Scotland arrived next, they were on a mission. Observations suggest they were well on their way to achieving their objective. Another Chap walked in and I looked at His Coupon. He’s Scottish – I said to Maggie. I asked him, he wasn’t, but his Granny was. Over for an Elevator Convention in Augsburg, he was happy to relate his Scottish roots. He insisted on buying us Bier. We had to decline, it was getting late. Tomorrow is another day. Actually, we have to check out at 11.00.

Marg Time

The Glockenspiel Café overlooks Marienplatz. Marg had Breakfast surveying a sun-drenched Rathaus. Hector had Curry at the Indian Mango. But most Curryspondents know this already. The Viktualienmarkt was stripped bare as we passed through. Thereafter we walked down to the Englischer Garten passing the Surfers en route. No Gluhwein, no Bier, only Wasps, still. Marg’s Final Ritual was back to the City and Cafe Piemonte beside the Viktualienmarkt. There was Cake, Marg bought the lot.

The Final Bier

Clive and Maggie had a long lie. They went shopping too before a quick visit to Andechs am Dom. Apparently the Spezial Hell was still not available. Clearly there is no demand.

John, a Curryspondent, was scheduled to be arriving in München just before we departed. We waited in the Augustiner Grossgastätte with Edelstoff to keep us company, alas it was time to go to the Airport.

October, and only Hector’s Third Trip to Deutschland in 2013. What ever happened to the £20.00 return weekend flights?

The ‘plane to Edinburgh arrived on schedule, we were home an hour and a half after touchdown. Clive and Maggie touched down at Gatwick an hour before, we were home before them. Their last three miles took longer than the Flight. Airport Efficiency.

The Breweries, Brewery Taps, Bier Houses visited:

Augustiner Grossgastätte (Zum Augustiner) – Neuhauserstr. 27, 80331, München

Bräustüberl der Forschungsbrauerei – Unterhachinger Straße 78, 81737, München

Andechs am Dom – Weinstraße 7, 80333, München

Sport-Café Schiller – Schillerstrasse 3, D-80336, München

Posted in Perlach, München | 1 Comment

Dörfleins – Now a Ritual Part of any Bamberg Trip

There was a quiet start to the last day in Bamberg for this year. Coffee with Marg was part of accompanying Marg round what one tends to forget to highlight, the sheer pleasure of being in Bamberg. Lunch was called for but what to have? Not more Fish, I’m in the wrong place to indulge in my favourite. In the end we found ourselves at the Weinfass am Alten Kanal, a venue passed often but never previously entered.

Marg’s Salad choice was simply huge, Hector’s Wiener Schnitzel came with Pommes, usually avoided. We both ate well but had to leave some. It was too early for full blown German Portions.

Clive and Maggie arrived at the ZOB moments before us. Hector had found a Bus to Dörfleins, without a walk across the River Main. It was a slow Bus full of School Kids heading home, that is the payback, in Deutschland there are few Rural Buses except on School Days.

The Schwarze Adler is not firmly part of Hector’s Bamberg Ritual. Marg, Clive and Maggie ad never been, I mistakenly thought they had. I should have checked a Reliable Bier Website.

The Bock was brought in Clear Pils Steins, a contradiction surely? Maggie proclaimed its wonder instantly. At 7.3% certainly to be appreciated.  With no signs of the Dreaded Sweetness this could well have been The Bock of The Week.

Marg and Maggie ordered Deep Fried Cheese, the Healthy Option. Cue another Bock.

The Staff were a lot less friendly than they have been on my previous two visits. Have they found themselves swamped with Tourists of late as Bier Blogs such as this make the World aware. The Bier here is something very Special.

The last Bus back to Bamberg was quite early, just after 17.00. Fortunately this was an express Bus and had us back in Bamberg in ten minutes, it also passed along Obere Königstraße, we would pass Spezial and be around the corner from our Hotel.

The Ladies went back to the accommodation to do what Ladies must do. Clive had another Spezial Lagerbier whilst we waited for them to rejoin us. More Food was eaten but not by Hector. A Kebab was once again the Objective. This time there was no messing about. A walk back across town for another Bier, or a Kebab.

Mission accomplished, and way better than anything served in the UK.

Is this New German Cuisine?

 

The Brewery Taps and Restaurant visited today:

Weinfass am Alten Kanal – Habergasse 12, D-96047, Bamberg

Brauerei Eichhorn/Schwarzer Adler – Dörfleinser Straße 43, 96103, Dörfleins, Hallstadt

Spezial – Obere Königstraße 10, 96052, Bamberg.

 

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Erlangen, Buttenheim and Schlenkerla, now Open Seven Days

There was only one way to solve what was becoming a Kebab Crisis, have Curry-Heute. This involved Persuading everyone that Erlangen was The Place to start the Day. Not a problem, a Train Journey was just what people required. Eh? Twenty minutes from BambergThe Curry Desert, Erlangen boasts many Curry Houses, oops, Wrong Blog.

And it came to pass that the Erlangen Curry-Heute was washed down at the Kitzmann Brewery. Only Hector and Clive’s second visit, the Brewery is very easy to find and is minutes from the Station. Hector and Maggie had the Helles, Clive the Weizen. Marg had Peppermint Tea. The Bier went down slowly, we had just been Fed. Not an Outstanding Helles, Mahrs yesterday certainly had the edge. Frischeisen remains my all time Favourite Helles. I must get back to Kelheim sometime soon.

Dodging showers just, we were in Buttenheim some thirty minutes after leaving Kitzmann. The walk up the hill from Altendorf where the train actually stops is definitely remarkable. It always feels much shorter coming back.

Hansi Modshiedler, Mein Host, was at the door as we entered the Löwenbräu Buttenheim Brewery Tap.  As ever he did the Double Take, – I know him…? Today he was kept busy for the duration of our visit so we never had a chance to catch up. The Evening Doris did recognise us. Her Facial Expressions spoke volumes as she interacted with the various customers. She enjoys her work and has been here for years.

No Sugar was harmed in the making of this Bier – was Clive’s instant comment. The Löwenbräu Buttenheim Helles is Seriously Dry. At €2.00 per 0.5l, very easy on the Pocket too.

Evening Doris brought my new Krug, it was not the Standard Krug, but one of The Local’s own. On realising this, she nearly had apoplexy and stopped me drinking from it. The Chap across the room had spotted the potential Catastrophe. Ich Bin Locale auch, Ich kommst Hier zweimal pro Jahre. Sorted. If only that were true.

Back in Bamberg, there had to be a Taxi from the Bahnhof to Schlenkerla. Schlenkerla on a Tuesday? The Chap pouring the Urbock in the Main Tap Room had informed me on Sunday that the Ruhetag was no more. This had to be verified.

It was far from late even though Marg felt it was time to seek nocturnal repose.  Maggie had heard of the newly found Weinstube Pizzini, there had to be a final Bier, or Brandy for Maggie.  Tonight we stuck with the tried and tested Spezial.  The price of the Bier was OK for a Pub, but the Brandy and Coke cost more than two Biers. Be warned.

The Chaps on duty were different from last evening.  They would not be on duty tomorrow either. Still they interacted well as we took up the seats at the Stammtisch opposite the bar. Led Zeppelin II, played in its entirety.  When did I last hear this?  And yes, Moby Dick was included.

Time for a Kebab.  Oh no… everywhere was closed.  How did that happen?

The Brewery Taps and Bar visited:-

Kitzmann – Sudl. Stadtmauerstr. 25, 91054, Erlangen

Löwenbräu Buttenheim – Marktstrasse 8, D-96155, Buttenheim

Schlenkera – Dominikanerstraße 6, 96049, Bamberg

Weinstube Pizzini – Obere Sandstrasse 17, D-96049, Bamberg

Posted in Bamberg, Buttenheim, Erlangen | 3 Comments

Es Gibt Bock Heute?

Furry Boots are You Frae’?

(I blame the Planners.)

There is a delicate Balance, maintaining the Bamberg Ritual and keeping Marg amused. Apparently I had to see a couple of jackets. They were fine but not required. This was a Prelude for Marg taking me to a Shoe-Shop where she had spotted a Pair of Boots during her Sunday afternoon wanderings. Shops and Market Stalls open on a Sunday? What is happening in Bayern? Needless to say the Boots were Furry and were not for me. So it goes.

Fisch for Lunch

The Nordsee chain has been around for some time. The occasional Fish Roll has been purchased, today Hector fancied a full blown Fish Lunch. The four of us made the Rendezvous eventually. By this time Hector had demolished the largest piece of Fish on display accompanied by the mandatory Bratkartoffeln. Wilkommen in Deutschland.

The Furry-Boots were for Marg. Maggie had bought Baby Clothes, Clive had nothing and Hector a Litre Bottle of Sprudel. Time for Bier.

Clive and Maggie were at Mahrs waiting for us just after 14.00. Helles was the gentle start to the day. How can simple Helles taste this good? The Ungespundet had to be tried also. A bit more Yeasty inevitably, the Unfiltered version packed even more Taste.

It was a pleasure to sit inside Mahrs. In the Summer the Courtyard was the place to be, and two years ago on the previous visit it was the Bock Tapping, everyone outside except The Elite. The Tapping of the Bock is not until Friday of this week, we leave Bamberg on Thursday. However, across the street lies Keesmann, the Bock awaits.

Keesmann Bock is still appreciated, it is an Outstanding Bier, the Big Brother of Sternla. It has become Sweeter over the last few years, a recurring theme it appears. I did try to suggest to the Bräufrau back in July that it has lost Something. Catering for more Youthful Tastes is something the Brewers of Bamberg have consciously decided upon. The Lady was on the premises when we entered. I acknowledged her as I have done for years. Slowly she remembers our Company but maybe not all the Permutations by which we appear.

Marg and Maggie ate at Keesmann, Clive and Hector had failed to have a Kebab last night, tonight would be the night. It was an Honour that The Bräufrau brought Marg’s dinner to her in person.

Time was passing, The Ladies were fading, they decided they knew their was home. They walked.

Call me a Taxi

The Staff at Keesmann are always prepared to order a Taxi given the extremity of their location from most Hotels. Was Hector last out?

The Taxi Driver spoke English, Hector spoke Deutsch, Where can we get a Bier? Was the simple request. He drove us to Schlenkerla and pointed to the Crowd along the street beyond. Many were queuing to get into a Night Club, not for us.

The Weinstube Pizzini has been passed but never entered. A Bar? It was. And a very welcoming Venue too with much character. A very poor Helles from Krug Bräu, Breitenlesau (near Coburg Dr. Stan assured me) was the only disappointment. We would certainly return on another day. But next we needed a Kebab. The Marmaris was well shut. No Kebab-Heute for Hector.

The Brewery Taps and Bar visited:-

Mahrs – Wunderburg 10, 96050, Bamberg

Keesman -Wunderburg 5, 96050, Bamberg.

Weinstube Pizzini – Obere Sandstrasse 17, D-96049, Bamberg

Posted in Bamberg | Comments Off on Es Gibt Bock Heute?

Zurück nach Bamberg für Den Früh Bock

Lord Clive, Lady Maggie, Marg and Hector departed from Crawley at 05.00, in no time at all we arrived in Bamberg at 15.30. Checking in at the revamped Alte Post Hotel, now the Hotel Andres, we were delighted to discover Wi-fi Kostenlos. Just getting it to work is the next thing. Success.

We’re here for the Bier

So I have to remind Marg who is an expert on the best Bier in Deutschland and could lead a party round all the Brewery Taps. Don’t ask her what the Bier tastes like, apart from Smoky.

We started Das Ritual at Spezial. Dr. Stan’s favourite Waitress was on duty, I haven’t see her for a couple of years. I showed her Dr. Stan’s photo and advised her that her Beau would be here in a few weeks. Nice to be nice. Marg went for a wander whilst the Three managed to get well out of phase. When Marg returned we were once again harmonious and headed to Schlenkerla where the Urbock was waiting.

The People were out in the streets drinking the Urbock, not a good sign. The only table with space was in the vestibule. We squeezed in and then took advice on securing Bier. One would be served at The Hatch, that was it. Hector did the Honours and secured Three Pfand also. There was nothing for Marg so she went looking and found the same table that Steve and Hector occupied on The Couples Trip in July/August to be free.

A Tale of Two Doris  (Plural – Dories?)

Doris was not happy with us sitting down with Bier at her table. In fact she was generally not a happy person at all. Her patience in taking the subsequent orders for Food and Drink showed a distinct lack of patience. Did she think Clive was using a Magnifying Glass to read The Menu just for fun?

Fyfe Robertson is Immortal

Hector would not take – No – for an answer. Wir Stehen Hier! was my exclamation when she expected us to give up the table. Occasionally Crap Deutsch has its advantages. She gave up and served us for the next couple of hours.

The Good Doris

Hector went to visit The Other Place. As he stood up a Waitress was coming past with some plates. He gave way like any Gentleman would. Hallo – said The Good Doris. She remembered me from the summer. That made my day. She even humoured me when it became time to take Artistic Photos. It was The Good Doris who told the Bier Pourer to let me have a shot. She is next on duty early on Wednesday.

The Urbock

One of the most sensational Biers on The Planet. No Argument. Smoked Kippers in a Glass, but with Aggression. Worth coming to Bamberg for even though few Bocks are on this early in October. The Bad News that is Breaking – the Urbock has become sweeter. This is shocking.

Who is the Father of the Sons of Zebedee?

The Ladies had long since departed. At 21.30 Clive and Hector decided that we had had enough Sweet Urbock. Let’s move on. Taxis were invisible, it was too early for a Kebab. The Night Bar has gone. And so did we. Bed by 22.00? One would think we had been up since 04.30.

I wasn’t even Last Out of Schlenkerla…

The Brewery Taps visited today:-

Spezial  –  Obere Königstraße 10, 96052, Bamberg.

Schlenkerla  –  Dominikanerstraße 6, 96049, Bamberg

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