The Joy of the Bayern Ticket, two people travelling from München to Bamberg for a total of €26.00. The Discomfort due to the 11.00 train to Nürnberg being the optimum train everyone goes for. Now imagine a sealed carriage and the air conditioning off. So it was for an hour. I’m surprised nobody fainted. The Frustration, the decision by DB to reclassify the Nürnberg to Bamberg leg from RE or RB to RE or S Bahn. The S Bahn stopped at every Shack.
It is written than we stay at the Fässla Brewery whenever possible. This is usually down to whether or not they have replied to emails. The inefficiency of the check-in always makes me wonder why. It is whoever is there who has to deal with the arriving residents. The welcome is non-existent. At least the rooms are now all Non-Smoking. My room, on the second floor, faced the street.
The first Bamberg Bier had to be at Spezial! Straight across the road from Fassla, why not where we are staying? Taste! The Spezial Lagerbier was Cool, and Slightly Smoked, an excellent preparation for what was to follow.
On Obere Königsstraße we passed a familiar Frau – the Boss at Keesmann. I was passed before I had the chance to acknowledge, pity. The works on the Bridge over the Main-Donau Kanal around the corner has now been completed. In effect a Pedestrian Zone has been created from Obere Königstraße all the way to the River Pegnitz. A Fruit and Flower Market was set up along the route. Why is it that German Fruit and Vegetables look larger and generally more satisfying than what we see in British shops?
Something strange has happened to the façade of Schlenkerla. A Temporary Board ran from street level to the windows. Rising Damp?
All of the tables in the main room to the left were Reserved. We took a table in the middle room in front of the serving area. The wonderful Märzen was brought. Only the Urbock surpasses this. Again Cool, Black and full of Kippers. Those of us who have acquired the Taste love it. Some don’t get it.
What’s this?
A New Bier? The choice at Schlenkerla has always been take it,or leave it. In the late 1990’s the Weizen was introduced, a Rauchweizen and Bottled only. Now an Unfiltered and Slightly-Smoked Bier is available – vom Fass! Neither Steve or Hector was tempted. We stuck to our guns. We know what we like. I watched, they shifted a lot of the New Bier. A Marketing Ploy, catering for The Masses, a drop in Standards?
Fiddler on The Roof
A few blocks away lies Klosterbrau, possibly now my least favourite of the Bamberg Remaining 7. This was Steve’s suggestion, so why not? I had the Schwarzla which was as Black as ever but still had Hops despite the appearance. Steve had the Braunbier which I still don’t have a write-up for.
Another Bier was available here apart from the Weizen, a Pils. WTF? I certainly wasn’t up for trying this. Two Breweries, both breaking away from Tradition.
There was a brief flirtation with walking up the hill to Greifenklau to see if their Fest was on. Fortunately this very Website was able to convince me that it started later in the year. Taxi.
Taking up a strategic point back on the main thoroughfare a Taxi appeared, Hollywood-style.
Mahrs oder Keesmann. Wunderburg. (Where did the address come from?) The Taxi Driver would know where these tow Breweries are located, my brain spontaneously offered the street name.
Mahrs before Keesmann, It is Written.
Pre-smoking Ban sitting outside was preferred at this time of year. There was an air of disappointment that the actual Gastätte was closed in favour of the tables. Steve had to check his bearings, the last few times we have been here the courtyard was stowed, The Tapping of The Bock. Tonight, a small but eclectic gathering. The Mahrs Helles did the job, it also put the Palate back in favour of Lighter Bier.
Three Giant Steps took us to Keesmann. We were invited to go and sit in the Garden at the Rear. A few Chaps were inside playing cards. I pointed to the otherwise empty Tap Room. In we went.
Sternla Lager first, the basis for The Bock, and Weizen next. Steve had the same in reverse. We have both been through our years of Nothing but Weizen, now we both have to be careful. A Bog Standard Weizen will not do, the body makes it difficult to swallow. Keesmann Weiss remains one of the Outstanding Weissbiers, not Huge Bananas, but it always hits the spot.
It was getting late. The aforementioned Keesmann Frau appeared wearing her customary Blue Shawl.
There were still only a handful of Regulars and us. I looked over and nodded. She acknowledged. I have made it a point of always letting The Lady know when I am there, she has moved people to get our Group a Table when it has been ridiculously busy. She joined us.
I know she speaks good English, tonight she was speaking Deutsch. The ear was tuning in, a conversation of sorts was under-way.
You are The Boss? Asked Steve.
I am The Owner!
QED
Now for Hector’s Big Chance on behalf of all Bier Lovers, Everywhere
Ihren Bock Bier. Fur Drei Jahren es gibt mehr Zucker.
I know there is no Sugar in the Bier but it has become much sweeter. I described that until recently we though it was the Best Bier in the World. I did get my Sekt and my Trochen confused, who knows what came over in the end. Needless to say they are selling more Bock than ever.
To Weans as we have observed .
A Taxi was called on our behalf and moments later we were sitting in Fassla having a Lagerbier, a Nightcap. The Staff can be funny, sometimes No Problem, others No Chance.
I was last out of Fässla , hang-on, I’m a Resident.
Kebab Time
The Marmaris serves great Kebabs in wonderful Bread. I appear to have decided to avoid Traditional German Cooking.
Saturday
A Long lie in was required, no sleep during the night. The open window let in the (what?) breeze and all the traffic noise which was relentless. Then there were the Nutters who had to shout half of the night. Other Nutters had to have the Loudest and Most Echoey Conversations the length of Obere Königsstraße . Hector was not a Happy Hound.
The Noon Rendezvous was across the street at Spezial. Still Wonderful. Fassla would be closing soon, they are shut on a Saturday Night!
Dörfleins, the location of a Standout Bock on the last Bamberg Trip. I have not had their Regular Bier (or so I thought). This required a Bus from the ZOB. Dörfleins-Hallstadt a reliable Bier Website reminded me. We found a Bus to Hallstadt, Doris sitting in the Driving Seat must have only been keeping it warm. The Driver came eventually, we would have to walk the last bit.
The Maps on the Trusty Samsung suggested this would not be too far. When the Bus Terminated the Driver pointed in the onward direction – Gutes Bier.
It was 35ºC in the Shade, except we weren’t. We crossed the Main, there was Dörfleins, a twelve minute walk. Hopefully it was open.
Nobody There
A few Chaps sat outside under a tree, Brewery Workers. A Sign at the Serving Area suggested Self-Service – Que?
There was a Garden at the rear, nobody there. Steve went to… A Doris appeared, I asked if they were open, but the reply became long and confusing. We sat in the shade, Nobody Came. I tapped on a rear door, a young girl pointed around the front of the Gastätte. Doris was in there, waiting all this time.
Kellerbier, at Source. Suitably Cool and Dry, a Bier of Pedigree. Time for Lunch. Again Hector stuck to the Cold Meat, more Kellerbier.
There were no Buses back from Dörfleins. We presumed a Bus in Hallstadt around the similar time to where we were dropped off. The same Driver came. He had his break in the shade, he had taken a Bus Tour to Schottland, we spoke Deutsch. It happens.
We shall definitely be back in October – More Bock!
Now What?
Steve called a Time Out. 18.00 Rendezvous downstairs in . More Fassla Lagerbier.
Hector’s plan was to make an overdue return to the Spezial Keller. It is up the Greifenklau Hill, but on which side? Taxi!
We passed a suggestion of a Schlenkerla Keller and saw some of Fate/Pageant under-way, Spater.
Not as big as the München Kellers, but still Hundreds sat out in the still Bright and Warm Evening Sunshine. Insects, Bites, No Repellant, Let’s Go.
The Happening down the hill was a Religious Youth Event, no thanks. The sign for Schlenkerla said 200m that way. How step is this hill? Then I remembered, I have fallen for this before. At the top of Mt. Everest lies the Alt Gold Keller. I texted Dr. Stan to source the Bier which could have been a Heller/Schlenkerla offshoot. Mr. Holden was in Town, no sense back.
So how far are we from Greifenklau? Not that far, but with no Relief on Google Maps we could be walking up and down hills all night.
Retire to Schlenkerla
The first table on the left was occupied by a Mature American Couple and an even More Mature Lady, the Mother of one.
Are you from Scotland?
How could you tell?
And so the joy of Biertrinken, the tables are set up so that conversation is encouraged. People join strangers who do not remain strangers for long. Imagine a single Chap sitting down beside a Company in a Glasgow Pub…
Was Hector last out?
Annafest
Bier auf Curry, Fine. Curry auf Vier Bier
Another sleepless night, Traffic Noise, Punter Noise in the Street outside and then to cap it all Donner and Blitzen. I had enough Donner before I came up to the room. (sorry) There was a Crack from a Flash of Lightning so severe one could almost feel it, the Thunderclap almost coincided, this was right above us.
The Heavy Rain meant everyone in Bamberg went home to bed, I can sleep through rain, I’m Scottish.
Steve was a willing victim at the Erlangen Curry House. This left us well stuffed as we arrived at Forchheim. With typical efficiency a Bus whisked us the 200km to the Festival Site. Or so it felt the first time. You could walk it. The Taxis advertise €6.00.
We have learned the hard way, now we know. Check out where the Forchheim Kellers are and the Löwenbräu Buttenheim Keller too, then off up to the very top. Here lies Neder, one of the Forchheim 3.
A Band was in midst performance playing all the Crappy Tunes that the Germans seem to love. They changed to Brass Instruments and then played some of the Deutsche Tunes that Hector likes, some.
It took a long time to sink the first Pot of Neder Kellerbier. There was a Sweet After-taste I don’t recall from previous times. It was Cold at the start but warmed up, yes it was Hot. Steve managed to finish his, I had to leave a Kölsch-equivalent.
Down the hill to Hebendanz, a Keller set slightly off the main path. Avoiding the Brilliant Sunshine meant sitting in the proximity of a group of Goths-Bikers, whatever, who were there to Smoke, Biertrinken was an afterthought.
Steve reckoned the Fat Lady on stage played the keyboards. We watched the Band set up. They are Best Setting-Up Band I have ever seen. So thorough, so Professional. One-Two. We never heard a Note played Zusammen.
Greif Next, and suddenly the quality of the Kellerbier made us take note. This was by far the best of the Three. It is a pity the Greif Gastätte has now closed in Forchheim Stadt. Still, the Kellers are open all Summer, one does not have to wait until Annafest to come out and enjoy the Forchheim Kellers.
Löwenbräu Buttenheim Keller next. It was time to get serious about Biertrinken. I led Steve up to the Hut away from the main path so as to get away from the Band who were Blasting away. We were also now nearer the Restroom. Steve disappeared for a moment, I ordered the Bier and recognised the Waiter. A quick check on a Reliable Bier Website, yes, it was he. I showed him his photo when he brought the Bier. I bet that made his day.
Four Youngsters joined our table, as was befitting they kept themselves to themselves. The Bier was starting to go down. One Young Chap remarked on Steve and Hector’s Dress Code for the day – Breaking Bad!
Here we go…
The Band stopped mid song, someone had pulled the plug.
Achtung! Achtung! Followed by the most indecipherable drivel ever spoken over a Tannoy.
What did he say?
There is a Thunderstorm coming, we should all leave. Aye Right.
In the safety of our Hut we might experience the occasional leak, but leave, come on.
Many left, many stayed, we felt good in our Hut.
Another Tannoy announcement, the Security Chaps arrived – Raus! Raus!
In the best spirit of cooperation shown in Prisoner of War Movies, we casually drank more of our Bier before deciding the Game was a Bogie.
Now how to get back to the Station? If everyone is going for a Bus then we have no chance. Taxis will never cope with the surge in demand. By the time we were off the hillside it was evident that most folk had gone. A reasonable queue formed at the Bus Stop but when Hector saw a Taxi available we were in.
Twenty five minutes we were back in Bamberg. Unglaublich.
Fässla was shut, Ruhetag, it was pouring – Spezial!
Somehow the buildings protected us from the Rain. There was a barrow channel along the edge where we only scored the occasional hit.
Spezial was remarkably quiet, but who would go out on a night like this? We had our Biertrinken interrupted just as we were getting into The Zone. The Thirst was back.
Usually Spezial is staffed by Ladies, many of whom we recognise, one we know very well. Tonight it was Chaps waiting, one is, one out. Yes People were still being served in the Garden to the Rear.
As our Glasses approached empty The Chap came over and asked us to settle up. We are closed. What?
No warning, no would like another, nothing. Hector was not a Happy Chap, especially when he noticed the rest of the room was all topped up. I let my Displeasure been known in my best – This is my Displeasure in Deutsch Tone.
And so that was it. Steve has an earlier rise to tomorrow back to Memmingen. Hector went for a Kebab.
No Sleep, not even a Whimper.
The Brewery Taps and Kellers visited:-
Fässla – Obere Königstraße 21, 96052, Bamberg
Spezial – Obere Königstraße 10, 96052, Bamberg.
Schlenkerla – Dominikanerstraße 6, 96049, Bamberg
Klosterbräu – Obere Mühlbrücke 1-3, 96049, Bamberg
Mahrs – Wunderburg 10, 96050, Bamberg
Keesmann – Wunderburg 5, 96050, Bamberg.
Brauerei Eichhorn/Schwarzer Adler – Dörfleinser Straße 43, 96103, Dörfleins, Hallstadt
Spezial Keller – Sternwartstraße 96049, Bamberg
Wilde Rose Brau Keller –Oberer Stephansberg 47, 96049, Bamberg
Forchheim Kellerwald:-
Neder Keller
Hebendanz Keller
Greif Keller
Löwenbräu Buttenheim Keller
And it came to pass that the Erlangen Curry-Heute was washed down at the Kitzmann Brewery. Only Hector and Clive’s second visit, the Brewery is very easy to find and is minutes from the Station. Hector and Maggie had the Helles, Clive the Weizen. Marg had Peppermint Tea. The Bier went down slowly, we had just been Fed. Not an Outstanding Helles, Mahrs yesterday certainly had the edge. Frischeisen remains my all time Favourite Helles. I must get back to Kelheim sometime soon.
The Chaps on duty were different from last evening. They would not be on duty tomorrow either. Still they interacted well as we took up the seats at the Stammtisch opposite the bar. Led Zeppelin II, played in its entirety. When did I last hear this? And yes, Moby Dick was included.
