The Couples’ Trip – München

Posted on July 25, 2013 by Hector

This is The Bamberg Staff Trip conceived over a year ago for four Colleagues of a certain Institution and their Spouses, or whatever. This is the Primary Reason why there is no Hector’s Horrible Holiday this year with The Chaps. Suffice to say, only four of eight made any bookings. Our Ladies did not fly in the end, Steve and Hector had seats 13E and 13F and 14E and 14F, respectively. The easyJet flight to München left at 18.10 meaning a late  check-in at the Hotel Royal (Schiller Str.) around 22.30. No need to go daft on the First Night, is there?

The First Stop was the Augustiner Grossgastätte. En route one could not help notice that a certain building was now revealed once more having been screened off whilst renovations were conducted.  As it wasn’t a Bier Haus, no need to dwell on this any longer.

The ever dependable Edelstof (Augustiner, München) did taste a bit Sweet on the first tasting as Dr. Stan always says it does. However, once supped the Dryness comes through. A lot of FC Bayern Tops were on display, they had beaten Barcelona, whose fans had travelled all the way from The South of Spain, for this Friendly.

Behind the Dom lies Andechs am Dom. They still don’t sell the Spezial Hell, despite us creating a demand by asking for it on every visit. The normal Andechs Helles was followed quickly by the always wonderful Andechs Weizen. We are not creatures of habit and do not take the same photos on every trip, unless there is a candle on the table, then one must.

Hector might have last out of Andechs am Dom, he wasn’t caring. A visit to The Sports Ba,r along from our Hotel, was not the sensible thing to be doing in the Small Hours but in we went. I have not had Franziskaner Weizen (Spaten, München) since mid November when last here with Marg. Franky is an Old Friend. Almost Nine Months, the longest gap between Trips to Deutschland since the days before the Budget Airlines changed everything a decade ago.

There was a Curry-Heute

In fact two were planned from the outset. Steve enjoys a Good Curry as much as Hector but it was too close to Breakfast, too soon for Curry and too early for Bier.

Entering Marienplatz moments after the Glockenspiel had competed its 11.00 Performance, what Now? The Ratskeller! Directly under the Rathaus lies a somewhat Upmarket Restaurant, it is a Keller as an English Speaking person would translate. €10.80 later we had polished off a half litre of Sparkling Water and Still Water.

We went for a walk.

The existence of the Hofbräu Keller was only revealed to Hector earlier this year. It looks as if it should be accessible from the Englischer Garten Sud, but we had to retrace our steps and found the street entry. It was Hot, we found the Shade. We managed both a Bier and a Pfand. Hofbräu Helles kick-started the day, one would have to pace oneself. It could be a long day. The First Visit of the day to the Indian Mango was now called for – Indian Mango, München #1, this took a while. Steve did sneak in another Bier, the Maximilian Helles, but the Sparkling Water felt appropriate as ever for The Hector.

The Kellers

MVV opened a new S Bahn Stop called Hirschgarten at some time since my last visit, no need to hike from Laim any longer. Finding the Periphery of the Park with relative ease we had a choice of Right or Left. Hector chose Right. Left was the better choice. Twenty minutes later have walked around the perimeter of the Park we arrived at The Keller.  From Laim one cannot miss it.

A choice of Tegernsee or Augustiner. We knew the Plans for later and so Tegernsee Spezial Hell (Hofbräu, Tegernsee, Bayern) was next up. I know people who love this Bier, it is still not rated that highly by Hector who considers Andechs Spezial Hell to be be superior. However, a Trip to Tegernsee is always fitted in whenever there is time, a Special Place to visit and send the odd half dozen postcards, to the same person.  For the first time I tried the Tegernsee Dunkles, it was remarkably similar to the Helles, same Dry aftertaste, with only a slight addition of Maltiness.

These aren’t Dear, they’re Goats. – remarked Steve. Maybe they are Dear. Had Marg been with us we would have known for definite.

It was hot, The Chaps were melting. It even dared to rain.  Time to go back to The Hotel Royal and reboot.

After a decent Time-out it was back up to Hackerbrucke and the short walk to the Augustiner Keller. It was now early evening. The Locals were finishing work, the place was stowed, thousands of People cooling off with a Bier, many were eating. How can People eat that Stuff?

First one has to procure a Bier. The Queue was long, but deducing that they wished Food, we skipped to the Business End and had Edelstof vom Holzfass in moments. A table at the entrance was occupied by Two Chaps, we took up the opposite end. The difference between the Pumped/Gassy version and this, the Direct from the Wooden Barrel is astonishing. The latter is Smoother, the former has the Bite. Both are excellent.

Thousands of People were enjoying Bier on a very warm München evening. The Chaps with the Guns appeared and led one person out. Steve spotted a Chap who had been the Victim. One arrest in all this Throng, just like a night out n Glasgow, not.

Two Young Chaps had filled the gap between us and the now Cigar Smoking Chaps at the end of the table. Other than acknowledging their arrival by confirming the seats were free, we had said nothing.

Breaking Bad

The Chap on my right, Christoph, started up a conversation whilst Steve was off re-loading. The Heisenberg t-shirt was too much for him.

Where did you get the T-shirt? Was his opening line.

Steve returned and we were introduced to Max, opposite. That was it, an hour discussing what they regard as the Finest Television Drama, ever. They could not believe that only the first two seasons were ever shown on British Television. They also remarked that in Deutschland it is the more Highbrow Channel – ARTE – that has shown it, and without dubbing.

Save Walter White

We studied all the T-shirts available on a well known Online Retail Website, Christoph told me about the Save Walter White website. Thanks to the Trusty Samsung and the still rip-off Vodafone Contract, we were able to employ current technology to see everything rather than just make references.

As the conversation widened, it became apparent that Christoph and Max were unaware of the what lies on their doorstep. Pronouncing Augustiner to be the best Bier produced in München meant disagreement. This honour still lies with the Forschungs Bräuhaus at Perlach as long as they maintain the Blonde. And as for Bamberg, that was an Undiscovered Country.

Time for The Chaps to go for Curry-Heute #2, Bamberg in the morning. A couple of Thousand People stayed on. But then there is the distraction of Andechs am Dom and Café Schiller afterwards, surely not? Watch Andy Murray at Wimbledon, again?

The Breweries, Brewery Taps, Kellers and Bier Houses visited:

Augustiner Grossgastätte (Zum Augustiner)  – Neuhauserstr. 27,  80331, München

Andechs am Dom – Weinstraße 7, 80333, München

Sport-Café Schiller – Schillerstrasse 3, D-80336, München

Ratskeller – Marienplatz 8, 80331, München

Hofbräu Keller  –  Innere Wiener Straße 19,  81667, München

Hirschgarten  –  Hirschgarten 1,  80639, München

Augustiner Keller – Arnulfstraße 52, 80335, München

Posted in München | 2 Comments

Port El Kantaoui – Featuring Golf Bräu, and a Zoo

Posted on July 7, 2013 by Hector

The Marina

Approaching The Marina in Port El Kantaoui we passed through a Sparkling New Construction of Hotels and Shops surrounding a Fountain as a Focal Point. Well Planned, I thought, for once. A Reproduction Portal (give it a Century and will be Historical) pointed the way to The Marina. Finally, one felt as if one was in a Mediterranean Resort. This could have been a Greek Island, almost. With Restaurants and Shops along the Quaysides this had a certain magnetism. We would ave to eat here of an evening. Tomorrow Evening. Meanwhile it was Ice-Cream Time.

Café Glacier

We were on of two couples on entry, and one of six on departure. The Waiter wrote nothing down and misremembered everything. The order was wrong and the Drinks were declined as they were well after we had embarked on the Ice-Cream.. Tunisian Ice-Cream is excellent!

Restaurante La Spada.

Avoid! The very last Restaurant at the far end of The Marina, somehow we found ourselves in here having the very food we were trying to avoid. A Mixed Grill and a Pizza, no Couscous, or anything remotely Traditional available without a day’s notice. What was worse, the Bier. A Frothing Pint of Alcohol-Frei Celtia. Putred.

Now wonder we retired to Golf Bräu.

Golf Bräu

(For Tasting Notes, follow the link.  I’m trying to resurrect the original format)

An advertisement for Golf Bräu was one of the first things I spotted during our lengthy transfer from Endfidha Airport. Hector’s eyes were peeled as we approached Port El Kantaoui on The Walley Trolley from Sousse. With no other Bier advertised anywhere I was starting to think it would never reveal itself. A Café was passed halfway, but just before The Terminus at the Main Roundabout, such a grand building it would be impossible to miss – a Bräuhaus.

OK, Let’s have The Zoo Photos

Now remember – Don’t touch the plants...

 

Microbrewery, Café and Restaurant visited:

Golf Bräu – Opposite Aqualand

Café Glacier – The Marina

Restaurant La Spada – The Marina

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What Did The Romans ever do for El Jem?

Posted on July 5, 2013 by Hector

So, how does One get to El Jem?

Having made our own way to Monastir there was little point signing up for an over-priced Travel Agent organised Trip to Monastir and El Jem. Even if it was El Jem alone, one would be face with spending an hour touring other hotels took pick up all participants, repeat the process at the end and no doubt be taken to every Carpet Factory en route.

We asked at the Sousse Bus Station (North Side of Medina) Hut where we were pointed South around the Medina. Where The Chap meant remained a mystery. We came across a congregation of Louage (Dolmus). Recognising some significance of our Wristbands, they wanted to take us to a Hotel. El Jem?

There is a large Louages Terminus West of the Bust Station. Here is organised mayhem. Let’s try the Station.

With the assumption that the Metro was not going that far, the Main Station lay beyond Les Louages.

There was a suitable Train in the morning, but nothing back. Should we go? and try our luck back?

It was our fifth day in Sousse, behold the Tourist Information Office. The Doris was surprised that there was no afternoon Train back from El Jem. She drew our attention to an Evening Concert being held there. Why? Was Transport available?

Eventually she produced a Photocopied Map and crossed our location and that of the Bus Station. Well, we knew where that was. A Map? We have been trying to get hold of one since our arrival. The Riadh Plams Hotel suggested we buy one in a Shop. Que?

The times of Buses were written, 10.30 would suit. No afternoon Buses and no information about Buses back. We would have to establish this at El Jem. Marg was invited to fill in a from saying how helpful Doris had been.

Time for Ice Cream

Glancing at The Map, I realised The Bus Station was not located where we had been already. This was Another Bus Station, South West of The Medina and a Louages Station beyond. Another Louages Station? The one at The Medina cannot surely be duplicated? We had better check this out.

Walking Westwards and Upwards we came to the designated Spot. Is that it? A White Featureless Building. It might be a Bus Station. We were close to the Catacombs that we had visited earlier. Right of Left? Right. Nothing, but wait, there’s the sign to a Museum which the Map shows to be here. We are in the Right Place. Try The Other Side. Marg accosted a Stranger. He pointed to the horizon. He walked with us another Half Kilometre along the Road to the Grand Routiere Bus Station. In Franglais we chatted. He was an Off-duty Policeman. No Tip required.

The Ticket Desk

Bert looked blank. Bus Station Doris had Franglais. 10.30 was established outwards. 13.30 suggested back. The tickets must be bought tomorrow.

We walked the route direct to the sea from the Grand Routiere. We passed through the Parts of Sousse that No Ordinary Tourist would Walk. The Industrial Zone, people at work. The Bakery was a highlight. Aroma. Reaching the Metro Line we walked back towards the Medina, and the Tourist Information Office. I had a few Comments to make. A Different Doris.

Your Map is not to Scale. The Bus Station is not where it is marked. It is here. You should be embarrassed at handing out This Map. There was No Comment. We were not invited to fill in The Form.

Tomorrow is another Day

Rather than walk forty five minutes to The Grand Routiere, a Taxi was in order. Our second in Tunisia. This was becoming Habitual.

Was it the same Bert? Two Return Tickets to El Jem – Allez et Retour.

Allez Seulement.

O.K.

Ticket Barrier Bert – Sept! I held up Seven Fingers.

We walked down to the concourse. The Platforms were clearly numbered One – Five. Now where would a Planner Site 7? We picked Our Spot.

The Buses in situ had no Numbers. The Buses in situ had destinations written in Arabic. Nothing else.

I asked a Driver, he pointed towards where we had stood. I asked another after he left, nothing. 10.30 had passed. People who had stood beside us had gone. I asked a third –

Il a partir!

Back inside, Driver #3 caught us up, took us to Ticket Officer Bert and arranged a refund. Honour.

The Bert and Doris looked Sheepish.

Les Louages

With The Map in hand we walked out of Le Grand Routiere towards the possible site as illustrated, nothing.

The Medina was traversed to get to the known Louages Depot on the far side. El Jem?

Nothing Direct. A Chap wanted to take us so far. Aye right.

Time to become a Capitalist

Both Taxi Drivers had quoted prices to El Jem. 140TND and 80TND. Hector had a Plan.

Back to The Riadh Palms, on foot. A tactic used before. Get the Security Chap to get us to El Jem.

Marg Haggled Upwards

Hector approached security Chap and offered the Price for The Trip. Marg now offered 100TND instead of the proposed 80TND. She has this habit, always worried that The Locals are not earning enough.

Thirty minutes later a Taxi Driver, The Middleman, was taking us to a Rendezvous Point at the edge of Sousse where our Driver, Dowdi, awaited in his Mercedes. This is how it works.

The Tunisians only Motorway is Peage, A Toll Road. In under an hour we were entering El Jem as many were streaming out of the Mosques, it was a Friday afternoon. Agreed our return time with Dowdi and we walked the final few metres to…

 What did The Romans ever do for El Jem?

Ephesus and Aspendos (Tukey) and Pompei are Amphietares that Hector has been most impressed by, after The Original. The Amphitheatre at El Jem is almost as imposing as the Coliseum in Rome. It features on most of the Tunisian Publicity material, a site not to be missed. As we have gathered, not the most accessible. Yet it was its location Historically at the intersection of Trade Routes that gave the importance to El Jem. Dating from the Third Century C.E. This is one of the latter constructions of the Romans.

Three storeys remain on one side with access passageways still open to the public. No safety issues then. One side has been restored, a stage erected in the Arena and a Screen for showing Gladiator (!) no doubt. We took turns at testing the limits of pixel resolution of our respective Lumix Cameras. The light conditions were favourable and not a cloud in the sky.

The joy of coming privately is getting the opperchancity to capture the scene without the accompanying mob. As we left a Bus Trip arrived. Time for lunch.

Two Camels were at the approach to the Coliseum, surreptitiously photographing these and not annoying The Chap who wanted 1TND per photo, kept Marg amused whilst I waited for a Kebab. Marg also learned at this point that a Salad Tunisiene, does not have Tuna.

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I am going to Monastir Today, and so is my Wife!

Posted on July 3, 2013 by Hector

It is forty minutes from Sousse to Monastir by Metro, or so we thought. In the most Rickety (First Class) Carriage I have travelled in for some time, Marg asked if I thought it would last the journey as we boarded. Somewhere between Monastir Airport and the Town we stopped. The Driver spent the next hour on his phone and marching up and down the train. The Driver’s Cab was full of only they knew who. How many Tunisians does it take to make Choo-choo go? In the end, another train pushed us the rest of the journey. Meanwhile the local Chaps decided that Lighting Up was the best way to amuse themselves during the wait. Another Local told them off and pointed at us. It appears the Trains are Non-Smoking, any signs will be as worn as the Rolling stock.

On exiting the Station we appeared to have a choice of right or left. I chose right but eventually realised this was not taking us anywhere Historical. Being in North Africa, I have had my Roaming disabled on the Trusty Samsung. I know Vodafone have not complied with my instructions, and so I had to consult the on-line map.

From the Station, with hindsight, one only has to walk about one hundred metres straight ahead to reach the periphery of the Medina. Everything here is far too new. Was it demolished and rebuilt? In no time at all we had emerged on the far side and there was today’s objective – The Ribat.

The Film Set for much of The Life of Brian. Missing the entrance we walked the long way around the Fortress. It might also be a Tardis, better check. The first corner was a suitable site for a Stoning. Are there any Women her? As it turned out there was! Having done a 360, I still missed the entrance, clever design. One has to pay 1TDN for each Camera one wishes to use. This was a two Camera Job.

Emerging from the Portal into the Main Courtyard – Gosh! I know this place!

Are there any women here?

There was one hiding in the corner.  Marg gave her alms.  Not Myrrh!

I wanted to jump off the Tower, climb the Balustrades, make Proclamations.

In a Death Defying Moment (for me) I made it to The Very Top.

Broaden Your Mind

A forerunner of Monty Python and more specifically The Goodies was the small matter of a crazy comedy called Broaden Your Mind. Two Chaps, Graeme Garden was one, trying to find their way off the top of a specially built set in the studio. This came to mind as Marg and I split up to try and take optimum photographs. A Bus Trip arrived but we had the place to ourselves long enough for a plethora of photos Many more here. There was a staircase on the Main Wall with no handrail, Hector made no attempt, even Marg had second thoughts ten steps up.

A Sign!

I found a Flip-flop!  Just one!  Behold The Flip-flop! We must find and then follo the Man who lost  The Flip-flop!

This was the Best Fun I have had in ages.

A very cheap Lunch followed. My first Schawarma of the Trip, and no Eau Gazeifiee.

 Knowing the SNCFT had lost one set of Carriages we returned to the Station earlier than planned. A twenty minute delay, but only scheduled stops. A German Tourist told a Local Chap – No Smoking!  Ah, The Germans.

 

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Sousse, Tunisia, The Beginning

Posted on June 30, 2013 by Hector

For Hector, the Holiday officially begins when one is issued with the room key and the said room is accessed. A mere seven hours after we took off from Glasgow Airport, we checked in to the Four Star – Riadh Palms Hotel, Sousse. Room 3301, so third floor then. 301?, our key was traditional, it required electronic. A Cleaning Doris pointed in another direction, we saw 3301 clearly signed. Half a kilometre later, or so it felt, we entered our not unsubstantial room. The Bathroom particularly impressed. Time for Lunch.

With an All Inclusive Deal, one felt that The System had to be Analysed.

Getting down to ground level was difficult. We found a service elevator, determined not to return to the solitary elevator which would no doubt still bestowed, we walked down stairs and finally gained access to the Garden and Pool area. An Outdoor Café was feeding those who wish to spend their entire day – Poolside. Boring!

Finding a way back in the large Dining Room was located on the Lobby Level. A Buffet, well how else can one feed perhaps two thousand people resident? Choosing the Healthy Option and the standard Sparkling Water I thought I had better try the Bier. I asked for Blonde Biere as this is what I had spotted. Biere Blanche would have been more accurate. A Hoegarden Variant made by the Local Brewer Celtia (Societe Frigilogique et Brasserie de Tunis) was offered. I can drink this! As much Bier as I ask for All Inclusive for eight days. I could be happy here.

So how far are we from the Centre of Sousse?

The only way to find out was to walk into town. It was overcast, it wasn’t hot, I left the The Promenade looked Infinite as we starter The Trek. A rather impressive Beach for the Mediterranean ran in a straight line, the Town Centre presumably lay at the far end.

Deutsche Kaffee was the first sign that caught our eyes as we left the Promenade area. Suddenly Marg decided she likes German Coffee, she never has At Source! A Chap tried to pick us up saying he was The Chef at our Hotel and was on his afternoon break. We do not need a Guide. We had to cross the road to get away from him. The problem with All Inclusive is the Wristband. The Locals all know exactly where we stay by the colour. Even the Taxi Drivers as it became all too obvious very soon. The Walk to Town was well within Acceptable Parameters, I suspect we shall be doing this frequently.

The Medina was not to hard to find, especially since many Locals had pointed us in the right direction. I suppose it is just as well we wanted to go there. The Medina Walls, did I mention a Movie they feature in?, were as impressive as Jerusalem. That is quite an admission for Hector who holds Jerusalem in the highest esteem. The Ribat came in to view very quickly too, exterior photos today only, we are here for a week.

Wandering through part of the Medina I soon came to realise just how large this place is. With endless lines of Bazaars and nobody seemingly buying anything, how do these guys make a living? The Foodstuffs must be bought by The Locals, much of what is on sale is Crap. People buy Crap?

We found ourselves outside the Walls,impressive, once more. Another Gate saw us enter. What is that way up at the top? Another day.

The People at the Deutscher Kaffee spoke to us in em, Deutsch and every other language I could recognise. A Sparkling Water for Hector. Marg would have Coffee and Ice Cream! This was brought with a massive Slab of Cake, On The House. Hector ate most of the Ice Cream with frozen fresh strawberries. Ice Cream I do, my only Sweety.

Taking a road parallel to the Promenade, we passed many Snack Bars and eventually some Restaurants. Noting resembling a Pub. Bier may not advertised in Tunisia, certainly not in Sousse. A few places caught the eye, but then on a Side Street, a Tunisian Restaurant also selling Indian Food. Two possible venues for Curry!

We walked up to the Taj Mahal which was metres uphill from the Hotel, it sold Coffee et al, no Curry here.

After a Wee Lie own it was Dinner Time. With nothing explained at Check-in we were in the dark. We were moved on from one table, because it was reserved and taken to another. Our Dinner Ticket was checked and we were assured that this would be our tale for all of our meals and Dinner would be at this time. We were on the Second Sitting. School Dinners came to mind.

One had to queue for the Meat at the Buffet but it appeared quite civilised. The Waiter brought Drinks, more Biere Blanche, I hope I do not get scunnered.

Brasil v Espania

There was the small matter of a Football Match. The Paying Bar had a large screen TV. The Waiter told us the Final was not on until 23.00. I had a Bier regardless. Celtia Lager, a Green Bottle with White Writing, what chance did it have? It was too Sweet, not wonderful. The alternative was a Draught Pils, whose, he wouldn’t tell me.

And so for the Final it was Draught Pils. Not the worst Bier in the World, served in a Pint Glass, unlike the Freebies.

We never did see the end of the match, due to Satellite problems the picture was stuck with fifteen minutes to go. Brasil still won.

That was a twenty two hour day. Hector promises to be more brief with the rest.

Cafes, Restaurants and Bars visited today:

Riadh Palms Hotel, Sousse

Deutscher Kaffee, Sousse

Posted in Sousse | 1 Comment

Peterborough, The Home of Oakham Ales

Posted on May 25, 2013 by Hector

What sort of person would have a Weekend in Cambridge and not visit the Sights?

Some may call it late morning, for Hector it was still quite early when we marched into the Centre of Cambridge. Petty Cury, well one side of it thanks to The Planners, the Market, Christ’s College and The Cam. Marg and I retraced our steps from the last visit but were determined to try a new Coffee House.

Benet’s Coffee and Crepes supplied Hector with his first ever Smoothie – Mango Tango. Being a variation on the title of my Favourite Album of All Time (by Can) I had to have it. Minutes later it was sent back. Mango? It looked disgusting too. It was replaced but was no better. So much for Smoothies.

Clive and Maggie arrived at Cambridge Station in plenty of time for the train to Peterborough. Who was panicking? Just under the hour across the Fenland on the Direct Train. A Group Ticket only available if we go all around the houses. Why does the UK have such a ridiculous Transport System?

What sort of person would spend the day in Peterborough and not visit the Sights?

The tortuous path from the station was abandoned and we entered the Old Town via Cowgate. The Market Town origins of Peterborough are most apparent. As it boasts a Cathedral, we now have a City.

The official photos were taken then some unexpected business was conducted. Maggie did not manage to get a hole punched in her Bag Strap, Hector did find a pair of shoes suitable for his purposes after a search lasting months. And they were a bargain!  This is important.

We approached Charters from the Bow-side along the River Nene. People were sitting out on the banks of the river, this would suit Marg, she would not enjoy sitting indoors on the Bottom of a Canal Barge.

Last time the Ale here was nothing Spectacular, however Oakham Ales have become Spectacular since my last visit to Peterborough. Scarlet Macaw (4.4%) for kick-off and Bishops Farewell (4.6%) to continue. Green Devil was planned for later, AT SOURCE!

Supping Ale on a Sunday Afternoon is alien to Hector. That it is a very English Custom is most apparent given the number of folk sitting at adjacent tables. This was relaxation at its finest, and with a lovely Oakham Ales Umbrella to shade us from the Sun, a perfect location. Two Chaps even performed on the Stage, but not intrusively. We consulted other Oakham Pubs on The List but they were all too far out of the Town Centre. Maybe we have to come and stay here, and have an Peterborough Weekend? Had there been no other agenda, we could easily have stayed here longer. Marg purchased some Chinese Food from the Barge, she was being amused. Meanwhile the rest of the Cambridge Weekend Chaps were in Norwich. There was absolutely no sense of Competition regarding who had the Best Bier…

The Drapers Arms is a Wetherspoons, for the record it is also the location of where Hector first ever used a Wetherspoons Token. There was nothing outstanding available and so I went into Nostalgia Mode – Directors (Wells and Young, Bedford, Bedfordshire) at 4.8%, brewed by Courage? – No… This was one of the first Real Ales ever consumed by Hector in the mid 1970s in a pub on Great Western Rd, Glasgow. Neil will remember the name, he may have told me already. As far removed from the Hops favoured today as one can imagine. It was fine, but not what one currently desires, and after Bishops Farewell very ordinary.

The Brewery Tap

Inferno at 4.0% was the Ale of choice on the last visit. There has been an Ale Revolution in this Brewery in recent times. The Green Devil was not on – Your Friends drank it on Friday – Mein Host assured us. I spent considerable time at the bar chatting with Mein Host who showed me new Ales – Coming Soon – but not in the misleading Wetherspoons use of this term. What was Seasonal may well become Permanent. Jester’s Ferret at 3.6% may have charm, however Helter Skelter at 5.0% will Hop-fully be another Belter!

The Brewery Tap is a Spacious Room, the Largest Micro-Brewery in Europe I read elsewhere. Some Micro-Brewery. Again, one could just have sat there enjoying the Ale, the Ambience, and risk someone mentioning Thai Food. Hector had other plans. The Royal Spice turned out to be a Highlight of The Weekend, yes it was time for Curry-Heute.

The plan was to take the train back in time for more Hanssens Kriek at the Cambridge Blue. Jonathan informed us that all Cambridge Pubs would be shut at 22.30 on a Sunday, what a ridiculous scenario. So much for Tourism. What sort of age does the UK live in? This meant decanting to the Ostrich Inn and settling for JHB (Oakham, Peterborough) at 3.8%. Now with The Brewery Tap along Westgate, and having to pass it en route to Station, here lay madness. Still, it was the only new Pub in Peterborough I visited today.

Meanwhile back in Cambridge

The Norwich Chaps apparently went to bed. With the new route from the Station to the Travelodge nearly complete, we passed the Earl of Derby. The lights were on, Morlands Old Speckled Hen (Bury St. Edmunds, Suffolk) was available, more Nostalgia. Now this Ale used to be one of the most easily identifiable Ales in the country. It is still available at 5.2% in Bottles, it may still have The Taste. The Cask version at 4.5% simply does not trigger the memories on the Tastebuds.

Courtesy of a Social Media Application, Jonathan managed to find us. He too witnessed a flag on the ceiling and heard the songs being sung. This is not the sort of venue Hector feels comfortable in. I shall not be back.

There was a Full Moon.  Where Wolf?  

The Pubs and Brewery Tap visited today:

Charters – Town Bridge, Peterborough, Cambridgeshire PE1 1FP

The Drapers Arms – 29-31 Cowgate, Peterborough, Cambridgeshire PE1 1LZ

The Brewery Tap – 80 Westgate, Peterborough, Cambridgeshire PE1 2AA

Ostrich Inn – 17 North St, Peterborough PE1 2RA

Earl of Derby – 129 Hills Rd, Cambridge CB2 1PG

Posted in Cambridge, Peterborough | 3 Comments

Some Bier and Ale in Cambridge

Posted on May 25, 2013 by Hector

Arrival

This weekend is a tribute to Dr. Stan who will be 65 in a few days. Hector was set the task of suggesting a venue and setting things in motion. A weekend in Cambridge was conceived, but for the majority more time was spent in Peterborough. Even Dr. Stan was misled.

Marg and Hector arrived at Stansted at 21.05, only a few minutes later than the advertised time which was something of an achievement. A BA flight to Oslo from Heathrow had to make an emergency landing which resulted in BA grounding all Airbus 319s. A PIA flight to Manchester was redirected to Stansted after some naughty Chaps caused a fracas on board. Our easyJet Flight was an Airbus 319 and Stansted bound. No Volcanic Over-reactions this time.

Lord Clive and Lady Maggie of Crawley were also Cambridge bound by car and so collected us at Stansted in their brand new Four Door White Mercedes Benz. By this time Dr. Stan and Neil were the last Men Standing and were desperately trying to last the course until our arrival. By the time we checked in at the Travelodge and walked the necessary distance, it was 23.00 before we arrived at The Kingston Arms.

Crouch Vale’s (Essex) Brewers Gold at a modest 4% was the recommended Ale to kick things off. Needless to say the first intake of Ale in six days rarely touches the sides. It was OK, but after the joy of The Staggs (Musselburgh) last Saturday and the Best of Oakham Ales (Peterborough, Cambridgeshire) it could not be described as outstanding. Dr. Stan and Neil has spent the day in Peterborough.. no more need be said.

Taylor’s Landlord (Keighley, Yorkshire) at a better 4.3% did not feel like a typical Friday Night Bier either, however was up to its usual standard. Although not in our now preferred style of Hop and Citrus overload, this Ale still has much to offer.

People were fading, Hector was in the mood, Bells were ringing, Time Please.

Just to set the standard for the remainder of The Weekend, Hector was last out of The Kingston arms.

It was agreed, we would all spend Saturday in Cambridge

Marg was watching Hector enjoy Curry at the impressive Prana when Yvonne texted to say – They were all at the Beer Festival and as Andechs Spezial Hell (Andechs, Herrsching, Bayern) was the only impressive Bier on offer, They would not be staying long.

Hector would not be hurried. Having sated the Curry Appetite we wandered towards the town centre and with the aid of Google Maps took the bearing for Jesus Green.

Now CAMRA Members gain access to this Festival for free. The last time I attended it was not that wonderful and so we did not stay that long. Marg was happy to go for coffee in the the centre of Cambridge. What would it cost to get her in?

Explaining that Marg didn’t drink Bier and only intended to say- Hello – then depart, she was intermediately given the status of Designated Driver. This gave Marg Free Entry also and tokens for Soft Drinks. Now there’s a practice that many Festivals could adopt.

The Foreign Bar was the obvious place to head for. Had there been any Ales of note the Jungle Drums would have beaten loudly. Although Olaf was nowhere to be seen, these were clearly the Biers from the Schellenberg Mercedes Van. Nobody else does this range. Edelstoff (Augustiner, München, Bayern) was going through a cooler something I first witnessed at the Bradford Beer Festival earlier this year. The Andechs Spezial Hell may well have been the Choice of Champions, however the Trunk (Vierzehnheiligen, Bad Staffelstein, Bayern) Silberbock was on. At a surprisingly drinkable 6.8% this is one of the finest Helles Biers there is. The Server was struggling to pour a Pint and so I asked for a half. A Generous Half was presented. Marg fetched her Soft Drink from an adjacent stall and we headed outside the Marquee to find The Chaps.

Once the Silberbock announcement was made, nobody was going anywhere

Dr. Stan was given his Birthday present, he has wanted a Kindle for sixty of his sixty five years, allegedly.

Schlenkerla Märzen (Heller, Bamberg, Bayern) and a Bottle of Füchsen Alt (Düsseldorf, NRW) had to be sampled also. One cannot survive on Silberbock alone, especially when sitting in the Sun.

The Schlenkerla Märzen at 5.4% is the major Rauchbier produced in the fine City of Bamberg. Hector and Steve will return in July. No October trip planned as yet for the Urbock. The Füchsen Alt was a way of coming off the Mountain. At a more modest 4.5% this is a novelty on our shores, how often does one taste Altbier in the UK? My third favourite Altbier. Finishing on a Bottled Bier!

Craig took little persuasion to do on the Silberbock. George, The Duke of Hamilton, followed on. Yvonne stayed on the Andechs Spezial Hell. Had Howard been with us he too would have been in Hog Heaven. Clive was trying English Ale then realised nothing would compete with Olaf’s finest choice of Deutsche Bier. Meanwhile Marg had Lemonade and Coffee.

As various members headed off towards the town centre we were joined by locals. One Chap pointed in the exact direction of our next port of call, The Maypole. Well done that Chap.

The Maypole had two Bars and a lot of Bier. Whilst the majority went Domestic including 14 gravity dispensed, Hector spotted Franziskaner (Spaten, München, Bayern) vom Fass. It is nearing the end of May and Hector has not set foot in Deutschland since November. Unglaublich! Franziskaner is part of the Staple Diet. Who knows what Marg paid but as she and Maggie had decided that it was lunchtime, dinner time, what time was it?

Jonathan and Dr. Stan, remember him?, texted from St. Radegund to say they had found the Best Bier of The Day, so far... the 6.2% UK, NZ and USA Hopped – Flava Bona Pretiosior Est Rubinibus from the Milton Brewery. (Cambridge). As everyone knows – A Good Blond is more Precious than Rubies.

The Duchess had now joined The Duke.

How Jonathan managed to text was a mystery. In previous visits the use of Mobile Phones in any form was strictly Verboten. The Ale was decidedly warm after the Cool Delight that was Deutsche Bier. The Flava was initially Sweet too but settled on the Palate. Hector was just getting used to this when Clive announced it was time to go to Inder’s Kitchen. Yes, Dear Reader, time for another Curry-Heute!

A certain Football Match at Wembley was just finishing when we rejoined the rest of the Company who were by now at Hector’s Favourite Cambridge Pub – Cambridge Blue.  The German Team won.

The Ale that first drew our attention to the mighty Oakham Brewery (Peterborough, Cambridgeshire) Inferno at a now seemingly weak 4.0% was the best on offer. A new Oakham Ale, Sock Monkey ta 5.0% went off before I could have any.

The Fridge had to be studied, and there it was, one of my Mostest Favouritest Biers – Hanssens Oude Kriek! There is not a Cherry Bier known to Hector as Sour as this. This is it, the Most Cheek Sucking Cherry Bier on The Planet. At 6.0% a careful session can be had.

Alas time ran out before a Session could be contemplated. Cambridge Blue shuts at 23.00. There’s always tomorrow. Ah, but, the Kingston Arms is just around the corner.

Those who hadn’t had a break had all gone home by closing time. Robin and Mags have not rated a mention. I cannot keep notes on everyone else. The Brothers were left at The Maypole, they are residing in Peterborough. I thought this was a Cambridge Weekend?

Jonathan replaced Dr. Stan to keep the same six as last night, but what to have? A British Ale wouldn’t work, nor would a German…and so Farmhouse Perry (Ross on Wye, Herefordshire) again at 6.0% was the Nightcap. This had the Body and total lack of Sweetness to be palatable.

The Pubs and Festival Visited:

The Kingston Arms – 33 Kingston St, Cambridge, CB1 2NU

The Cambridge Beer Festival 2013 – Jesus Green, Cambridge

The Maypole – 20A Portugal St, Cambridge CB5 8AF

St. Radegund – 129 King St, Cambridge CB1 1LD

Cambridge Blue – 85-87 Gwydir St, Cambridge CB1 2LG

Posted in Cambridge | 2 Comments

Four Days and Nights on Orkney

Posted on April 4, 2013 by Hector

Arriving in Orkney by ‘plane, the best way for Hector and thanks to FlyBe Points, a cost effective way. This could well be a once in a lifetime visit. Four nights in the splendid Hildeval B&B on the eastern outskirts of the main town Kirkwall, on the Orkney Mainland.

With the Sun beating down for the first two days of the trip the photographic opperchancities were superb.  St. Magnus Cathedral and the adjacent Earl’s Palace in Kirkwall provided the backdrop to the first Coffee and Cake of the trip in Judith Glue’s Cafe.

It is just as well we did the main sights in the first two days, thereafter the clouds were low. However, the temperature remained unseasonably low also throughout our visit.

With two Breweries and a Distillery on the Orkney Mainland, there should be no shortage of interest from the Bier perspective. The noted Pubs of Kirkwall were located on the first afternoon and the first Ale of the trip Scapa Special a 4.2% (Highland Brewing Company, Swannay, Orkney Islands) is a near amber gold ale. Found to be cool and refreshing it was well within acceptable parameters. First sampled at Helgi’s one assumed that Hector would move around the various Pubs and Hotel Bars to sample many more locally brewed ales, alas this was not to be. It was only after the young waitress poured the second Scapa Special at Helgi’s that she revealed that the other pump without a clip was in fact selling The Duke IPA. This was more like it, and so we left.

The Bothy Bar, part of the Albert Hotel had three handpumps but only one was on, in fact only one was on throughout our four day stay. They advertise a range of Local Ales on the board outside, yet they believe Bottles legitimise this. And so it was more Scapa Special for Hector before turning in on the first night.

Easter Monday saw us complete the main tourist attractions, Skara Brae justifies any trip to Orkney, it is a fundamental part of our Scottish Heritage. Dating back some 5000 years, this is the genuine Stone Age relic.

The Broch of Gurness is one of a few more recently ancient sites that Orkney possesses, again well worth the visit.

However Readers will be more interest in the Ale, perhaps. Stromness had been taken in and the Stromness Hotel Bar, The Flattie, checked out. One Ale was available, something called Scapa Special.

There was a stop at the Highland Brewery on the north coast of the Mainland at Swannay. A newer operation than its much more famous Big Brother, there was no Visitor Centre. This did not prevent Hector and Marg walking boldly into the plant and hollering a – Hello. Rob Hill, the Brewer, replied, we were in and made most welcome. Hector did not leave empty handed, two bottles of Highland IPA in hand, what no Scapa Special?

Two nights in Orkney, it was time for Curry-Heute at Dil Se before retiring once more to Helgi’s. The Coal Fire attracted Marg, The Moth to The Flame.

The third day saw Marg and Hector drive south across the famous Churchill Barriers to the lesser islands south of Orkney Mainland. The Italian Chapel built by the inmates of the WWII POW Camp was worth the short stop. The adjacent Wine/Cheese/Everything Shop offered free samples, declined, too early.

The Tomb of The Eagles was the main destination in the drive to South Ronaldsay. Entry to the main sites is not cheap. There is an offer from Historic Scotland which we found out abut too late to make it worth our while. The Tomb of The Eagles was a private concern, another £7.00 each.

With two Historical Features on offer and an excellent talk on each before the Mile Long Walk towards the cliffs, this was all worth it in the end. Entry to the Tomb itself would have made Richard Attenborough a happy man, queue the music…

The Highland Park Distillery was visited on the return journey. Declining the chance to pay £5.00 each to do the tour, I could recite the script… we were invited to join the last tour of the day and watch the Intro Movie before withdrawing to gaze upon the most expensive Bottle of Scotch I have ever seen. Paul can dream of stocking this in the Bon Accord.

The evening saw us back at Helgi’s where the Duke IPA at 5.2% was what the Hector ordered. From the local Highland Brewing Company, this Golden Ale ticks the boxes and was a Session Ale at the Staggs, Musslelburgh last July.

Standing Stones are located across the British Isles, no Stonehenge is not here, but from the same era are the Standing Stones of Stenness (they do what it says on the tin) and the more impressive Ring of Brodgar, both free! Both are as old as Skara Brae but were weathered by the elements in the intervening millennia rather than having been protected. Sadly, with dark skies, Hector was in atmospheric mode and switched to black and white.

All this a preamble to the inevitable visit to The Orkney Island Brewery at Quoyloo, just passed the Appie Tea Room. The Crab Soup at the Appie Tea Room was on the watery side, the Atlas Blonde at 5% felt even more-so. It did nothing for Hector whatsoever. Thinner than the abv commands, and with no bite of Citrus, Hops, or anything than a straightforward Ale Flavour, well… I decided not to try the Dark Island at Source, or buy the t-shirt. Give me Orkney Blast over Skull Splitter any-time. Rob at Highland Brewing deserves to have his Ale feature in every Ale House in Kirkwall.

The final evening saw an incredibly poor Curry-Heute at the Indian Garden followed a final couple of pints at Helgi’s. Was it still The Duke they were selling or had it transformed into Deuchars? Still no Pump Clip.

Posted in Quoyloo, Kirkwall, Swannay | 1 Comment

The BBC in Lancaster

Posted on March 17, 2013 by Hector

Consummate Professionals do not consume Alcohol on Sundays, Bank Holiday Mondays excepting. However, there is this piece of English Culture called the Sunday Lunch, which apparently has to be consumed in a … Pub.  The Bad Boys’ Club (BBC) was on Tour, so…

Taking full advantage of The Travelodge Non Check-out Policy, Hector did not join Les Autres for a repeat of The Wetherspoons Breakfast. This meant I was first at the Water Witch.

Iceberg at an undemanding 4.1% (Titanic Brewery, Stoke-on-Trent, Staffordshire) kept me company until the rest trooped in. Not surprisingly the majority ordered the same. We were now minus Dr. Stan who had headed off to Brussel en route to München and some Starkbierfest or other. Jonathan had plans to drive there too but a Paraffin Budgie would speed him there from Manchester in the morning. Sister Kirstie and Simon joined us accordingly.

Fun with Cheese

By now Hector had been watching an adjacent couple tackle the Cheeseboard from Hell. I went to investigate. For £7.95, the choice of three substantial Cheese Portions from six, plus Loadsa’ Bread, Pickled Onions and Chutney. Let us not overlook the small, but perfectly arranged, Salad n the corner. Everyone watched, the Wetherspoons Breakfast may have been half the price, but this was more than twice the fun. In the end I was defeated and waved the Yellow Napkin. The leftovers, about a third of the starting volume, disappeared in seconds.

And so we moved along the Towpath to the White Cross. For the first time in three visits I found an Ale I wanted to drink. Timothy Taylor’s Landlord (Keighley, Yorkshire) at more suitable 4.3% is Mags’ Favourite Ale. She did not spot it was on such was the large array on offer. Oh how I enjoyed my Pint. Both the Water Witch and the White Cross gave CAMRA discounts. Simon told us that The Borough would give us £1.00 off an Ale on production of the CAMRA Membership Card. Craig and Yvonne were off, followed by Jonathan, Howard and Tracey.

Robin, Mags, Simon and Hector arrived at leisure passing some Lancaster Landmarks en route. The Borough was like sitting in someone’s Sitting Room. There was a bit of a wait to get served but at least a seat awaited at the large table adjacent to the bar.

Golden Sheep (Black Sheep, Masham, Yorkshire) at the lesser 3.9% had to be tried. Theakstons used to be wonderful, it was Old Peculier that got me into drinking Ale…. that well known light, hoppy… That the spin-off brewery Black Sheep were finally making a Blond Ale, well,, it had to be tried. It lacked the hoped for Hops, but was very Light and Refreshing. Simon enthused even more than Hector.

Craig and Yvonne were on the move again, ever closer to the Station. They reported back from The Tap House that Dark Star’s Revelation (Dark Star, Partridge Green, West Sussex) was available. Having warmed up somewhat, we were all now in the mood for something at 5.7%.

For £9.00, Craig and Yvonne obtained a Cheese Board which included Pate as well as a range of Cheeses. I was feeling hungry again, but had other plans for later, which did not include Curry-Heute, a first?

The Incident

Howard, Tracey and Hector were on the first of three trains back to Glasgow. Howard bought something for the journey. Tracey dropped it on the floor. Calm! Calm! The Glorious Liquid formed an ever expanding puddle on the floor – Is that the Cask Marque? – I had to ask…

The Pubs visited today:

 Water Witch – Canal tow path, Aldcliffe Lane, Lancaster, LA1 1SU

White Cross – Quarry Rd, Lancaster, LA1 4XT

The Borough – 3 Dalton Square, Lancaster, Lancashire, LA1 1PP

The Tap House – 2 Gage Street, Lancaster, Lancashire, LA1 1UH

Posted in Lancaster | Comments Off on The BBC in Lancaster

Hector’s First Trip to the Hawkshead Beer Festival

Posted on March 16, 2013 by Hector

A Wetherspoons Breakfast at 09.30, on a Saturday? Yvonne had also texted to confirm the 11.01 from Lancaster to Staveley. This would get us to the Hawkshead Beer Festival before the Noon opening.

Yvonne had a strategy, she had to get the Stammtisch, the seat occupied by all those who had been on previous Trips. This was Hector’s first Trip to Staveley, he would follow the flow.

Jonathan and Robin had taken the Bus due to the lack of accessibility at Staveley Train Station. This left Seven of Nine to travel by Train. At Staveley one of the Barmen recognised Craig and took us a short-cut past the Graveyard. We were first to arrive and stood outside in the rain.

The doors opened at Noon, Yvonne was straight in and up the facing stairs, mission accomplished, now for an Ale, or two.

Tracey had consumed nothing but Ossett yesterday, the highly recommended Admiral IPA (Ossett, Yorkshire WF5 8ND) at 4.8% should be a gentle start to a long day. It was in our favoured Blond style, was indeed Dry, and then, Gosh! The Ale was becoming more Cheek Suckingly Dry by the Sip. This was just the job. But this is a Hawkshead Beer Festival.

Last Saturday, Glasgow CAMRA voted Hawkshead NZPA as best Beer of the Year. Craig was already demolishing it. Mags was worried they may run out and so grabbed some too. At least we were not returning from the Bar with Double Rounds as we are prone to do when the supply is at a premium.

I went downstairs to the Bar where the entire array of Hawkshead Ale was on sale. The NZPA was liberated. The Beer at Source! Dr. Stan appeared beside me, before I knew it we were in conversation with one of the Brewers. We informed him of his pending Award. He complained that it is hard for anyone else to get NZPA, most of it has apparently been sent North, to Glasgow! I wonder who drank it all?

By now I was familiar with the layout of the Venue.  Two Bars with long Corridors and Stairs separating them.  The Brewery Equipment was around us.  There was a Wi-Fi signal, but it was so poor the Handy Samsung was switched off for most of the day.  I was never here.

Back upstairs the Ale was thoroughly enjoyed, it ticked every box. Even after the Ossett, this had everything, Body, Flavour, exactly the Dry Hopped Ales we seek.

It would have been suicidal, or even worse, anti-social to stick with the Perfect Pint. Bitter Kiwi at a more able 5% (Bristol Brewing Company, Avon) was again a recommendation. It took a few moments after the NZPA, but this again was in the right style and was certainly worth investigating. It also had the bonus of being sold in the Upstairs Bar. This had nothing with me sticking to the same Brewery and following on the the American Hopped version, Independence at a lesser 4.6%. New Zealand Hops followed by American Hops, Hector was now in his element.

Our full complement of Nine was supplemented by the two Day Trippers. The Duke of Hamilton plus Alan arrived around 13.00. We were by now indeed having a Party. The Bristol Beer was enjoyed so much, plans were put in place for a Trip to Bristol (and Bath) later this year. It was also taken as read that we would be returning to Staveley for the Summer Festival in July. This year Hector’s Summer Vacation does not preclude a visit.

[Stan.TB] was back!

Howard was in Full Flow, Fun with Puns!, Tracey even departed from the Ossett. Robin breathed a sigh of relief when the Amsterdam Vase was NOT set before him. The Duke kept us entertained, how does he get away with it?

The afternoon merged into evening. Some decided that a train back to Lancaster was in order. Leaving the Day Trippers to fend for themselves. I persuaded Dr. Stan to stay on another couple of hours. This did not take much persuasion. Seven of Eleven had now left, we budged up and welcomed the New Company. Andrea and Co. would prove to be delightful. We were rejuvenated, just as well because the Final Ale of the visit would be a Doozy.

The NZPA was off!  There was no more!  Who drank it?

The Yakima Valley American IPA (Arbor Ales, Yakima, Washington, USA) at a mighty 7.0% was the Nightcap. Again perfectly Hopped, and American Hops of course. After the recent trip to NYC, I have acquired a great appreciation for the USA brand of Hops. Will I grow out of Hallertau?

Back to Lancaster

We had to change at Oxenholme, what a busy place. People going in all directions. It was only Dr. Stan and Hector left standing, or so we thought. People were reported at The Tap House, a new venue for us. Mag, Craig and Yvonne were tantalising themselves with Belgian Kriek.

Dr. Stan provided the final Pint of the Day. It was more Hawkshead, the Brodie’s Prime at 4.9%. This was the complete Antithesis, or even Antidote, to everything consumed today.

A Dark, almost Porter style Beer with no Hops whatsoever. It changed the Palate, but it also put me in the mood for Something Spicy .

Somehow, Hector was the last man standing, I tottered out The Tap House alone, picked a random direction and headed for Curry-Heute. Mognies was the destination.

The Brewery and Pub visited today:

Hawkshead Brewery Ltd – Mill Yard, Staveley, Cumbria, LA8 9LR

The Tap House – 2 Gage Street, Lancaster, Lancashire, LA1 1UH

Posted in Staveley, Lancaster | 1 Comment