Partridge Green – The Source of Dark Star!

It was moments after 06.00, the 06.25 flight from Gatwick to München was about to Board. You’re from Edinburgh? said Doris in front of us in the queue. No, Glasgow, I replied. Your Boarding Card says Edinburgh. So it did, where was my Gatwick-München Ausweis? I looked in my pockets, nothing, I opened my bag, nothing, I left the queue. I did not even have the return Boarding Cards to Edinburgh, wtf?

Last evening was all so different

We reached Edinburgh Airport in good time by driving via Stirling and not taking the normally congested M8. Our flight to Gatwick was early, Clive and Maggie were waiting for us in their new Mercedes, why did they not send their Driver to collect us?

Clive put forward a suggestion – There is Dark Star (Partridge Green, West Sussex) Smoked Porter on in a Pub just a twenty five minute drive from here. I had tasted this two weeks prior at the Three Judges (Partick, Glasgow) and had been impressed by how similar it was in flavour to Spezial (Bamberg, Bayern). I had told Clive to keep an eye out for it as it must appear in his neck of the woods soon. Why drive twenty five minutes for a Bier when one still has to drive ten minutes to Crawley, dump one’s bags and walk to and from The Swan? Surely a waste of VDT?

Maggie was up for the drive, Clive was still not selling me the deal, but as we were headed south east beyond Crawley it was now written. The Sat-Nav did not give away the destination, the road-signs eventually did – Are we heading to Partridge Green? I asked. This was by now rhetorical. The home of Evening Star, our favourite Brewery in these parts (some may argue that Harveys holds its own), we were going to The Partridge, the Brewery Tap. The location of the Brewery itself was pointed out just before we parked at this much sought after venue. Only The Brothers have been here before! Clive assured me. I was a Great Big Happy Old Hector and I had not even had the Bier. A BIG THANKS to Maggie for indulging us. Partridge Green! Leith no more!

Maggie permitted herself a half, Clive and Hector got tore in. Marg even had her favourite Caribbean Tipple. This Ale is everything I remembered and it was late of an evening when I first had it. Not as severe as Schlenkerla, it has the distinctive Smoked Flavours, but remains Mellow.

There’s More!

The American Pale Ale also from Dark Star had to be tried also. Another Fine Ale, but after the comparative onslaught on the palate of its predecessor it did lose out. One of the Locals propping up the bar took us on, he did not believe that I had come all this way and so briefly to drink Dark Star Ale at Source, why not?

Back to Crawley

Maggie dropped Clive and Hector at The Swan, she and Marg headed back to the Mansion.

Niall was in situ, Dave arrived shortly afterwards. One is starting to feel like a Local, and what’s-more there was no Hophead. Amarillo (Crouch Vale, Essex) a Blond at 5% was deemed to be only second of choice to the Dark Star’s American PA at the last Larbert Ale Festival. Tonight it was flat, lifeless, tasteless, a major disappointment. Time to switch to the Cider, but no Old Rosie…the Black Rat.

We were sensible Chaps and went home long before closing time. Clive had washing machines to move, Hector had a flight at 06.25. The Taxi was ordered the Alarm set.

The Trusty HTC?

Lesson #1, don’t switch off the phone and expect the Alarm to ring. The bladder woke me at a time I thought was early. We had missed the Alarm and the Taxi. A new Taxi would arrive in minutes, we were at Gatwick twenty minutes after the original plan and were through security in no time.

But where was my Boarding Pass?

Marg had taken the München-Edinburgh passes from me. It was pointed out that I must have had the correct Pass to get through Security.

The Wrong Pocket

It was early, I was definitely harassed, all was well and we even managed to get the extra leg-room seats. München here we come…

The Brewery Tap and Pub visited today:

The Partridge  –  Church Road, Partridge Green, West Sussex, RH13 8JS

The Swan – 1 Horsham Road, West Green, Crawley, RH11 7AY

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A Trip to Koblenz

We were all up in time for breakfast despite the attempt at late night madness. The Radlers announced that their plans had altered due to a domestic problem, they would be cutting their trip short and would not be stopping off at Koblenz tomorrow. Bidding fond farewells it was decided to restore our trip to Koblenz to today as originally planned.

The train from Traben took us to Bullay where we had no choice but to take an RB down the Mosel to Koblenz. We stopped at every Bahnhof, yawn. At least the return would be an RE and stop only a couple of times.

A Taxi took us out to the Brauerei Königsbacher, well so I thought. The tall tower revealed a re-branding had occurred, the Brewery is now called Koblenzer. Would the Bier be the same?

The Zischke has always been the main attraction. This Unfiltered Helles has a sharp almost Citrus flavour, very sharp indeed. The large Brewery Tap was relatively empty on this Wednesday lunchtime except for the tables overlooking the Rhein. We were still able to watch the traffic on the river and gaze across to the Maximillian Brauhaus at Niederlahnstein. Relaxation.

Doris brought the Menu, what? As well as the Ziske, Paulaner Oktoberfest Bier (Munchen, Bayern) was available vom Fass and, wait for it – Andechs Bergbock Hell! Hector cannot remember having had Bergbock on draught before, and if he has the lack of memory would be obvious.

The Zischke had to be sampled first out of respect for where we were, it was everything I remembered. Steve was happy to follow the lead, Anthony and Ian had em, other beverages. A the late night taking its toll?

Soup was ordered, a very impressive, Spicy, Goulash Soup – recommended!

Then it was time for the Andechs, gosh! I could have stayed here all day, Steve may well have warmed to this too, however there was a shifting of feet across the table. No Oktoberfest Bier for Hector.

Doris called us a Taxi – altogether – You’re a Taxi… Hector the Tour Guide suggested we take the Taxi all the way to Deutches Eck, it saved a needless walk across the city.

The Sun was brilliant, it was approaching Warm, what a fine place to be, the confluence of Das Rhein and Das Mosel. A new Cable Car connects the Peninsula to the fortifications across the river. Enough Kultur.

We wandered back up the Mosel and cut up into the Altstadt. The Altes Brauhaus is usually approached from the City, not the river. It took a double back or two in the Altstadt to finally locate the venue. How long is it since I last had a Bier in Koblenz? Maggie would know. Steve had been at the Altes Brauhaus more recently than me. This place had been shut for some time but is now back in full swing. Bei Berndt was our local some ten years ago, this venue must be the best in town presently.

Königsbacher is still very much the Logo that is visible but the Big Six of Munchen were represented by Spaten and of course Paulaner. Bring on the Festbier! Steve partook, the ladies stuck to their tea and coffee.

There was Wi-fi but our new Doris refused to supply the code, eh? The Tip was small. An optimum train took us back up to Bullay for the connection to Traben-Trarbach, time to finally visit the Brückenschenke. Ian and Anthony would now partake.

Franziskaner (Spaten, Munchen, Bayern) was meant to be Hector’s first Bier of this Trip, finally. Once again Steve took the opportunity to enjoy what has become a rare treat in recent times. To think we used to be in Traben-Trarbach on virtually a monthly basis, and for ridiculously small quantities of money. For the record the Others had Kölsch, Gaffel Kölsch.  For the second time today we did not secure an optimum seat at the window, however, our party was now  in full swing, what did we care?

Grapes

We had to eat at the Stadt-Mühle, en route we heard activity of an industrial nature. With the Grape Harvest in, The Chaps were performing the modern version of Trampling The Grapes. A grinding machine, was in top gear, I was permitted to take a few photos of The Chaps in action. So, the starting process of making Wine has finally been witnessed. Nine more months until Wolf.

Stadt-Mühle

Eating at the Goldene Traube was always a pleasure, expectations were high. The Mosel-Menu no longer exists and so a few more Euros would have to be spent. The Rumpsteak mit Krauterbutter is an old favourite, for a start it isn’t Pork!

Getting Steak cooked through – durch – can be difficult, tonight was no exception. It had to be sent back for another blast. I did send a Steak back three times one evening at the Reissdorf Brauhaus (Köln, Nordrhein Westphalen). The Salad Bar is a new development for The Allmachers, once it was refilled it proved to be well worth the wait. Washed down with a Bottle of Franziskaner this meal was a delight. Now to consider how aggressive I can make my campaign to get decent Draught Bier served at these premises.

Ian ordered the Fish.  This meant that Richard had to come to the Mill Stream which runs under the restaurant beside us and catch one.  Much amusement all round.

Steve and Ian felt like a night off and so the four of us put the World to Rights.  Though they had written a Set List by the time we left.

Nightcap

We could not pass Hami’s, the man was there himself. A Swift Half of Altbier saw Ian and Anthony take time to have a game of darts. This was followed by an Old Timer coming over to salute us, for why?

The Brewery, Restaurant and Bars visited today:

Altstadt-Cafe – Mittelstraße 12, 56841, Traben-Trarbach

Brauerei Königsbacher / Koblenzer – An der Königsbach 8, 56075, Koblenz

Altes Brauhaus – Braugasse 4, 56068, Koblenz

BrückenschenkeBrückenstraße 33, 56841 Traben-Trarbach

Historische Stadt-Mühle – Weihertorplatz 1 56841 Traben-Trarbach

Hami’s Pils Stübchen – Weiherstrasse, 56841, Traben-Trarbach

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Ten Years After…

In 2002 we were Nine, this year we were Five until the day before, and then there were Four.

Anthony, Ian, Steve and Hector made the rendezvous for the Tuesday flight to Hahn. Mr O’Leary now only offers three flights a week and all from Edinburgh, so much for the halcyon days of daily flights from Prestwick, wherever that is.

Our first ever Taxi Driver, Herr Nils Bucke was once again our Driver for the short €35 hop down from the Hunsrück to the Mosel Tal where lies Traben-Trarbach. Between four this affordable. We could have waited twenty hours for a bus.

Frank, Mein Host at the infamous Altstadt Café installed us in our rooms,

Bier O’clock

Our first collective Bier in 2002 was at the Brückentor, the Gatehouse Cafe to Tarbach which features on the Header Banner on this very Website. By the time we departed mid evening in October 2002 there were eight new converts to the splendour of Traben-Trabach. Hector is a sucker for the Romance of the Return Visit, the first Bier had to be there. Alas, Dienstag ist Ruhetag, and so we crossed the bridge to our other regular haunt, the Station Bar, properly known as the Türmchen. It felt like three weeks since I had last set foot in these premises, it was.

Once again Mein Host declined to let us sit at the large table, the only table, Reserviert, varum? The Weizen Bier was still the Bog Standard Erdinger so this was eschewed in favour of the first of many Kölsch of the trip. Gaffel was the Kölsch on offer. It was also the first attack on the lungs. Two very small Biers later and we were back across the Mosel.

Doris at the Brückenstubchen (formerly Rolf’s) was much more welcoming. The Kölsch was now Reissdorf, Hector’s favourite. The Young Chap who had also served us made an appearance too. Their photos from the last visit for the Wolf Strassenfest amused them. The day was kicking off. Somebody felt hungry, it had to be Caspari’s. With the Golden Traube now out of favour since the departure of the Allmachers, this would provide sufficient food at affordable prices, the Wine would also be enticing.    More Wine.

The Portions of Pork were not excessive, the quantity of Weissburgunder being consumed may have become so. Ian was loving it, Anthony was in full flow, Steve and Hector watched in amusement. The décor has been upgraded, a wee bit. The seating featured fewer benches, however, this remains a totally unpretentious eatery and always value for the Shekel. Anthony was so impressed he bought the T-Shirt. 

Where next?

Twas a bit early to go back to the Altstadt Café despite Frank warning us that due to a staff shortage he would be closing early. He had to do the Breakfasts too. Hami’s was a possibility, then Steve suggested we have a look at the Stadt-Mühle where he was convinced he had spotted Richard Allmacher on his last trip here in August. The Stadt-Mühle was last visited at Easter 2006 when Hector and 20+ Colleagues took over Traben-Trabach in celebration of Twenty Five Years at a certain establishment. The place has been closed for some time since. Tonight it was open and there at the Bar was Richard Allmacher.

The Hands of Hector embraced the Shoulders of Richard. Marilies was behind the Bar with Son, Felix. We were all reunited once again. This is how it should be. The place was full but we had timed our arrival to perfection and soon had a table at the far wall. Richard put the Acoustic Guitar in my hands knowing that I would not be playing it, but he knew a man who could. A Piano was wheeled out from under the Balcony – time for the Steve and Ian show.

There was a sense of modesty as they considered what to play, inevitably Steve got stuck into his standards, Ian kept up ably, he is The Musician! The Locals loved it. A table of Mature Ladies stayed an hour longer than they intended. A group of German Chaps were clearly loving it, we ended up in conversation, they were from the North-West near Münster. Hector and Marg went to Münster once, it was all a ruse to get to Gronau where the Rock’n’Pop Museum is located – and the Can Studio has been reassembled. Münster turned out to be well worth a visit, and one day it will be written up.

Richard appeared on Violin and his usual repertoire was unveiled to the public once more.  Traben-Trarbach needs the Allmachers.

Richard came over and sat with Anthony and I. He related the entire saga of how he and Marilies ended their short retirement. In early August they re-opened the Stadt-Mühle, business appeared to be booming. This was a Tuesday night in October, the end of the season. People were flocking from all over to celebrate their continuation. I had to question how they could be permitted to open a rival operation one hundred metres from their long established venue. I was not surprised to hear that the Golden Traube is not doing so well, could it be on the market again soon? And would the Allmachers go back? With Felix now on board there is little reason not to. But why have to get up for Breakfast everyday when one can party every night?

This is a Bier Blog

 

Bottled Weissbier is all the Allmachers have ever served, the draught Pils will not rate further mention.

The first Bottle turned out to be Erdinger but was soon followed by a much better Franziskaner Dunkel. Anthony still insists that the Kristal remains his favourite, a very strange perspective. Ian and Steve were bought Bier by their German Audience from Münster and also by the House. Somehow Anthony and Hector benefited from all this too, we were the Road-crew!

Back to Frank’s

Steve and Ian played a good hour before it was decreed time to depart. It was getting early, the German Chaps were staying at the Altstadt Café too, where else? With our new found colleagues we headed down Mittelstrasse and for once entered through the front door. The Kölsch was Reissdorf, Cards were exchanged, a rendezvous at Königsbacher Brauerei in Koblenz was arranged for Thursday. They were Radlers and would be cycling back that way after a day’s stopoff at Cochem.

There’s More

Such is the madness of the first night of a trip, when the Children went to bed, Steve, Anthony and Hector considered a final Bier at Hami’s was called for. It was Gisele who was on duty, we were welcomed back with a glass of Gaffel Kölsch.

Restaurant and bars visited today:

Altstadt-Cafe – Mittelstraße 12, 56841, Traben-Trarbach

Türmchen – Bahnstraße 49 56841 Traben-Trarbach

Brückenstubchen – Brückenstraße 33, 56841 Traben-Trarbach

Weingut Caspari – Weiherstraße 18 56841 Traben-Trarbach

Historische Stadt-Mühle – Weihertorplatz 1 56841 Traben-Trarbach

Hami’s Pils Stübchen – Weiherstrasse, 56841, Traben-Trarbach

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No Bier in Wales, some left in Chester

I am not a Number, I am a Free Man!

The plan today was to visit Portmeirion in North Wales. Only one thing was certain, we would be having Curry-Heute. Only two things were certain, we would be returning to the Pied Bull for the end of their UK v USA Beer Festival. Nobody expected Portmeirion to be a ninety minute drive from Chester, the plan was binned but Wales was not.

Colwyn Bay was deemed to be within an acceptable number of kilometres to drive and sufficiently far from England to be considered Welsh.

Just how many branches of a certain US Burger Franchise the people of North Wales require cannot be verified, however they appeared to be ubiquitous on our drive along the A55. We passed two castles which could justify a visit, the seeds of a return visit?

Taking the turn off for Colwyn Bay we managed to find the road along the coastline which meant we missed the town altogether – We missed the town. – and ending up stopping in Rhos on Sea.

Rhos on Sea is not the centre of the Universe, most of the visible populous appeared to be trying to escape given the number on the edge of the beach. Beach? Yet another seaside town, a la Blackpool, where the beach is only visible at low tide.

Back into the car and few more Kilometres along the road to the West lay Llandudno. This was a first. Lying in a textbook Bay between the two Ormes Headlands the town was as pristine as Leamington Spa. Graeme and Marion went off to do their own thing, Marg and I could see the End of the Pier, we had to go. Smaller than Brighton as one would expect, it did have a mini-version of the English End of Pier entertainments. This was thoroughly pleasant.

Wandering back through town I popped into a few Pubs to see if any Bier would call us in, nothing! No Bier in Wales? There was a Curry House.

The road up the Great Orme Headland is a Toll Road, fair enough, it is in a Nature Reserve. That we had to pay to park at the top was just a rip-off. Still the alternatives – The Tram – or the Cable-Car would no doubt have set us back even more. Again this was worth the visit. The Limestone gave a Mediterranean feel to the area; and the view, Snowdonia and Anglesey in the distance.

Llandudno has the atmosphere Marg and I both enjoy, Caernarvon and Anglesey beckon, we shall be back.

After the Chester Curry we walked the short distance to the Kash Tap Rooms. This is an ambitious Pub selling Craft Style Beer. The Green Hop Harvest, a 3.8% Ale from the Blueball Brewery (Runcorn, Cheshire) was a disappointment. Served far too cold and by a dubious dispensing method making it feel like Cask, we decided one Bier here would be enough. The Ale had no distinguishing flavour at all, so much for the Hops.

The venue was pleasant enough and the Chap behind the Bar was happy to discuss the Beer on offer, even accepting our Two-for-one Token. Cheap night so far.

And  Finally..

It had to be back to the Pied Bull. The English Ale had all but gone from the Festival Bar, Hector was more interested in the US Beer. Surprisingly so was Graeme. The Ladies stuck to Soft Drinks, good, the Healthy Option.

Brooklyn (no other name visible) was the choice to get the night going properly. This 5.2% Dark Gold Beer from the Brooklyn Brewery (Brooklyn, New York, USA), verged towards the Amber, it was Cheek Suckingly Dry, excellent. Marg, shall we cross over to Brooklyn when we visit New York next year?

Time was against the Chaps, the Ladies were wilting, time to squeeze in a final Ale. Hopageddon at 7.0% was definitely the Night Cap. Brewed within the City Walls, this Pied Bull (Chester, Cheshire) Ale was Seriously Dry, very easy to drink despite the high abv. Fear not, we were home soon.

Now Chester feels like the sort of venue The Friends of Hector would enjoy for a Weekend Trip, or even a future New Year? The Travelodge gives the impression of being the best place to stay.

The Brewery Taps visited today:

The Kash Tap Rooms – 121 Brook St., Chester, CH1 3DU

The Pied Bull – 57 Northgate Street, Chester, CH1 2HQ

 

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Chester Zoo, and Bier too!

Chester was resplendent in the autumn sunshine. After a Full English Breakfast we headed into town centre with its unique covered walkways. Pre-Elizabethan in parts it is the closest thing that England has to the traditional German Altstadt with which Hector is more familiar.

Having seen the shops we headed down to the banks of the River Dee via a park full of tame squirrels which kept Marg amused. Add to this Graeme armed with binoculars to spot birds, and this would be a different sort of day for the Curry Hound.

At least there were the Roman sites off the River Bank to give Hector some sense of Kultur before he was whisked off into the Chester Hinterland and The Zoo.

Hector likes Penguins, Meercats of the animated variety are interesting, that’s about it. Having sat on the neck of an Elephant in Sri Lanka in a National Park, watching them in a pen is not interesting. Animals that hide from the paying public should be dealt with, rations withheld… The Lions and Tigers were reluctant to appear, another cat simply did not. Even our close cousins – the Orangutan were indifferent. We went to a Tropical House full of birds, I took photos of the foliage. A Bird gave Marion a present, she then wanted out. The Penguins were fun, of course.

Meanwhile back in the Clean World

Dinner was booked in a Pub – The Bear and Billet. They were having an Ersatz Oktoberfest. This meant the staff were dressed in Bayerische costumes. Posters advertised Deutsche Bier, most of it third rate. At least there was some Schlenkerla (Heller, Bamberg, Bayern) but bizarrely this was the Weizen. I had to have it. Poured in a normal pint glass is not the way to drink a Weissbier. Still, I knew I would be getting the full Smoke/Rauch experience. Being used to the Urbock, this still felt a bit thin.

The Ladies drank non-Bier related items and so do not appear much in this saga. Graeme would always choose something at the lower end of the abv range on offer. Roosters (Harrogate) was a favourite Brewery in the late 1990s. Their Roosters, Cream and Yankee were all superb. Either the palate has moved on or they are not made to the same standard as in the halcyon days. Londinium (Roosters, Harrogate, Yorkshire) a 5.5% Porter felt like a fitting choice in this Roman Town. It would also complement the dark Schlenkerla. This Coffee Porter was Dry thankfully a fine Ale indeed.

To accompany all this I had a double bacon burger – of the home-made variety. This was an excellent feast, way more satisfying than Graeme’s small steak.

Spitting Feathers

Having completed a daytime survey of the three main Bier outlets on Northgate, The Brewery Tap, aka Spitting Feathers, stood out above all. Reminiscent of a Great Hall, the interior had a very inviting atmosphere. The menu was also superior to that of the Bear and Billet, but having booked our table at the latter we stuck with it.

Woodlands’ (Woodlands, Nantwich, Cheshire) Super IPA at 6.4% was way above what Graeme would tackle. This was within the comfort zone for Hector, just. This Gold Ale was very pleasant and did not drink at its given strength. It had the body but was lacking a significant flavour, a pity.

Back Home

We had to return to the Pied Bull to try some of the American Craft Beer. The Classic Pale Ale at 5.5% (Flying Dog, USA) was a beautiful Amber and well-balanced Beer. It was Dry with a hint of Malt, a very pleasant experience. Graeme had only ever tried one US Beer before and had not enjoyed, he stuck with the domestic.  These were starting to run out.

Somehow it was time to call it a day. Hector was just getting warmed up, the Ladies must learn to pace themselves.

The Brewery Taps and Pub visited today:

The Bear and Billet  –  94 Lower Bridge Street, Chester, Cheshire, CH1 1RU

Spitting Feathers : The  Brewery Tap   –  52-54 Lower Bridge Street, Chester, CH1 1RU

The Pied Bull  –  57 Northgate Street, Chester, CH1 2HQ

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Chester – It’s in Cheshire…

The previous  Biennial Weekend with Graeme and Marion pre-dates Bier-Traveller.com, that was York. This year it was our turn to chose the venue. I have dropped in to Chester twice in my life and been more than impressed by the ambience, to stay a long weekend, well…

Arriving just before 20.00 we were in time for dinner at the Brookside Hotel, our sleeping quarters for the next three nights. Dinner had to be commenced by 20.30.  This is the British Way!  The Brookside Hotel was a late choice, our original venue, the Bull & Stirrup, letting us down very late on.

Dinner was nothing special, the Ale was Bottled and Warm, time to get out of here. Given that time was passing, Graeme suggested the nearby George and Dragon. Robin has not educated me in Ale all these years to go to  a Pub that sells only Greene King Ales. We passed it by and the Bull & Stirrup which had no Ales at all. The Pied Bull was our next place for inspection..

Serendipity Strikes Again!

Now on our very first Weekend Away together as a Foursome, Marg did not believe that it was chance that we met Clive in Keighley as we headed for the train back to Haworth. It was also pure chance that the KWVR Ale Festival was on that particular weekend. The Pied Bull had a Festival on too! It was advertised as UK v USA. In the excitement of seeing a dozen Hand-pull Taps set up on a Temporary Bar, I failed to notice a smaller one opposite with the American Craft Beers being dispensed.

When I finally got served I had to ask for advice, many new names. I was told that a Brewer was around, but we never met up. His choice of Ale was also Hop and Citrus and so it was suggested I start with a Salopian (Shrewsbury, Shropshire) 4.5% – er, Hop Twister. I have enjoyed their Ales over the years but of late have not been so impressed. The Hop Twister felt a bit Thin, nothing special at all.

Next up was a local Ale, the Redwillow (Macclesfield, Cheshire). At 5.9% this should have hit the spot, again I found it to be a disappointment. The Dark Gold Body was certainly full, however I hoped for something more in my face.

It was getting late, a final Ale was negotiated. The Brewery within the City Walls of Chester who takes its name from these very premises – The Pied Bull (Chester, Cheshire) – had potentially the best Ale of the evening. A boldly named Matador at 5.0% had Citrus and Hops to the fore, but Malt too?

Chester has other places to visit, two more Brewery Taps within the City Walls, at least. However, I felt a strong urge to return here, there is still the USA Craft Beer to consider…

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The Lost Weekend – This is The End

A Tale of One Ale

Rain was forecast for today. It was raining, seriously raining. Even with the Umbrella in hand, the trousers were soaked by the time Clive and Hector reached Crawley station for our planned sojourn to Brighton.

The Evening Star thankfully is only a short hop from Brighton Station. Yes, it was worth coming all the way down to the South Coast to visit this pub on a Sunday lunchtime, Magic Rock’s (Magic Rock Brewing, Huddersfield, Yorkshire) Highwire was on offer. The Chaps back home have been leading a Merry Dance this very weekend trying to track it down, even going as far as… Edinburgh… Here it was in a quiet Pub, a Cask, all for me… Clive had some too, there was no going back. Cool, Dry and Cheek Suckingly wonderful, this is the style of Ale we crave, and here it was in perfect condition.

The rain continued to pour down, we couldn’t leave, but eventually there was a gap in the clouds and Clive took me on a Tour of Brighton. This was not his aim but Google maps do not always convey an accurate representation of what is out there.

Our next port of call was the Craft Beer Co, Brighton Branch. There was an array of Taps and at one end, a Tap for… Magic Rock Highwire! The Tap looked dubious, was it Keg? The Chap insisted it was Cask and the Ale was pumped using a method by which Air does not come in contact with the Beer. So, why was it so different from what we had just consumed a few blocks away? This version took an age to drink and was nowhere near as pleasant. I tried some Draught Kriek, they had Boon!, but very little of it. Delightfully, Tart, perhaps a first time for Hector on draught.

Time to move on, it is dry. As soon as we left the Pub the heavens opened again.

Somebody had described the Heart & Hand to Clive as being the best Pub in Brighton – The Swan relocated. They had one Ale we could drink, Harveys Best (Lewes, West Sussex). This compared poorly to the Highwire.  A return to the Evening Star would facilitate the return to Crawley with ease. The quality of the Highwire was again assured, this is the best I have tasted it. And there was so much of it available…

This was the end of the Bier Drinking for the weekend. Maggie was waiting for us back in Brighton, she was keen to go for a Curry. We tried a new place I had spotted – The Desi Grill and Karahi House. We had an early night, some had work in the morning, Hector had to be at Gatwick for an 07.00 flight.

The Lost Weekend – Conclusion

The App may have gone and returned, however, there’s more. Where are the photos for Brighton?

Update

Found them…

The Pubs visited today:

The Evening Star – 55-56 Surrey Street, Brighton and Hove, Brighton, East Sussex, BN1 3PB

Craft Beer Co. – 22-23 Upper North Street, Brighton and Hove, Brighton, East Sussex BN1 3FG

The Heart & Hand – 75 North Road, Brighton, East Sussex BN1 1YD

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The Lost Weekend – The Middle

A Tale of Two Ales

Hector has heard Clive and Maggie refer to the Burgess Hill Beer Festival, today he would experience it for himself. The short hop on the train from Crawley, via Three Bridges as ever, saw us walk down the hill from the Station to Martlets Hall. Curved Air have played here, a long time ago. Ah, the Stage where Sonja once stood, in her prime… Did I mention Colin was with us? Perhaps I should, why bother?

En route we passed a Charity Shop whose fundraising was devoted to raising money for Donkeys in Palestine.

This must be the smallest Beer Festival Hector has ever attended. Racked against part of one wall stood the 20 Barrels. The choice was not therefore extensive but at least there was the opperchancity to try a couple of new Dark Star (Partridge Green, West Sussex) Brews.

The App came back

There it was, the Icon sitting on the screen as if nothing had happened. Well nothing had since last evening. We were told that the Kiwi at 4% was being released here before it reached the local Pubs, a good chance to annoy the Folks back Home. We love Kiwi Hops.

Somewhat frustratingly there was the obvious flavour that Kiwi Hops must generate,but very little of it. The low abv and thin texture made for disappointment.

The venue remained quiet, Day 2 of their Festival. By this evening one assumes very little would be left, there was very little to start with. Maggie was making a Command Decision, we would not be staying long. Despite the fact that a Curry was arranged for the Jai Ho in Horley this evening in the company of Debs and Jim, Maggie fancied a Lunchtime Curry too. The effects of having been to India recently? Time for another Ale? The token system was dubious. A single sheet subdivided into 10p and 20p tokens. £5.00 bought more than one Bier, but not two. There was haggling over the odd Half Pint.

The Hylder Blond at 4.2% had been recommended by Colin, he has his uses. There was an instant blast of Hops, Elderflowers were in there too I was assured.

One had hoped that Dark Star’s Revelation or American IPA would have been offer, alas not. Hector was not throwing the Toys out of The Pram when we left mysteriously early.

No Curry House wished to feed us after 14.00 on a Saturday and so The Downsman was the next Pub to be visited. No Bier would be consumed in this outlet, The Downsman may be a Pub but it is more renowned for the quality of the Curry served than the Bier.

There was a Pre-Curry-Heute rendezvous with Jim and Debs at The White Hart.  One dare not criticise Harveys (Lewes, Sussex) Ales, however, their Harveys Best tastes no more than an ordinary English Bitter to this commentator…

There was a Gap

After the consumption of Copious Curry Clive and Hector retired to the Swan. More Hophead. Neil (who is not in this photo) was on the premises, this encouraged me to try a Traditional Cider, but this is not a Cider Blog.

The Beer Festival and Pubs visited today:

Burgess Hill Beer Festival  –  Civic Way,  Burgess Hill, West Sussex, RH15 9NN

The Downsman  –  Wakehurst Drive, Southgate, London, RH10 6DH

The White Hart  –  65 High Street,  Crawley, West Sussex RH10 1BQ

The Swan  –  1 Horsham R,d  Crawley, RH11 7AY

Posted in Burgess Hill, Crawley | 1 Comment

The Lost Weekend – The Beginning

The Glasgow September Weekend has long been one of Hector’s favourites, the first respite after the start of the new session. München has been visited for Oktoberfests, more recently the equivalent in Stuttgart. This year Hector finds himself resident in Crawley staying at the mighty Castle of Lord Clive and Lady Maggie. Marg is not in tow, a planned Hockey Tournament released Hector to do as he pleased. What he planned was to hijack Lord Clive for a couple of days and enjoy some English Ale, at Source, well as near as…

Flying down to Gatwick yesterday, Thursday, September 20, Hector was rushed to a Curry House in Horley. Clive and Maggie were pleased to see me, it has been four days since Wolf. Thereafter Clive and I retired for a light refreshment at the Swan. Hector likes the Swan as a Pub, it sells Ale, but the only one I ever seem to get is the Hophead at 3.8% from Dark Star (Partridge Green, West Sussex). Still, not a bad way to start the long weekend.

Today would take a while to get going

Clive had work to go to. Hector had Brick Lane Curry on his mind. The planned lunchtime rendezvous was delayed considerably as I found my way from Brick Lane to Liverpool St Station – by chance as much as design. I recognised the Pineapple, sorry Gherkin.

I was instructed to alight at Farringdon, the Mainline Station which links Central London to Three Bridges. The exit was blocked and so Clive failed to make the planned rendezvous which was quickly relocated to the Craft Beer Co up beside Hatton Garden. Deliberately wearing a Bon Accord Travel Club shirt, the Manager recognised me as being from his Homeland, he had worked in Glasgow’s Blackfriars, a Pub I find myself visiting with increasing regularity.

With an array of Cask Ale on offer as well as Craft Beer from the USA and European Bier on draught, one would assume choice, and lots of it. However this was not to be. Yellow Wood at 5.1% from the Wood St. Brewery (Sheffield, Yorkshire) was neither yellow, dry or wonderful. This was not a great start to the day.

Clive returned to work, Hector went off on an above ground sojourn in search of the Euston Tap. In the 1980s I got to know my way around Central London quite well both above and below ground. Today I was coming from a different angle. Fact – the area to the East of Euston does not need any more Pret a Porter franchises. The area does need shoe shops, I did not encounter a single Shoe Shop after I left Brick Lane.

The Euston Tap has been mentioned in dispatches for some years. The Sheffield Tap is well known to us for all the correct reasons, I walked out of the York equivalent some two years ago – they had virtually no Bier. I found the wrong Gatehouse first, this presumably sold Cider, The Cider Tap. I found the Tap directly across the road. It had an array of Ales and Bier dispensed by dubious methods.

Kill Your Darlings a 5% Dark Copper Ale from Thornbridge (Bakewell, Derbyshire) is a far cry from the preferred intake of Dry, Hoppy, Yellow Ales. But then the Ales Thornbridge currently produce a far cry from what they used to. The Friends of Hector made regular visits to Sheffield a few years back just to spend the afternoon at Dronfield and drink Jaipur – or Guypoor – as some now call it. I never considered the possibility of choosing a Thornbridge Ale which would be a Dark Copper colour and taste as Sweet as a Mainstream UK Ale.

As for the Euston Tap, the spiral metal staircase to the Upper Room makes one question the accessibility to the toilets, or should this reference be a singularity? Wi-fi was at least available. I will not be in a hurry to return here, especially when the next port of call was only half a block away.

Clive had now finished work, it was time to go for a serious Bier, or two.

The Bree Louise is a traditional London Pub with the added bonus of selling a range of Ales on Gravity. That the Ale is dispensed as flat as tea is off-putting, it was a bit on the warm side too. We like this? Ross joined us and drank some cold yellow, fizzy, domestic lager. The Son of Lord Clive has much to learn if he is to inherit his Father’s Peerage.

Why The Lost Weekend? A partial answer lies in the fact that the trusty HTC let Hector down at this point. The App with the Bier Database simply disappeared off my phone taking all records since time began with it. Something from Yorkshire is all I can recall.

This was a very busy Pub initially, but became quieter as people went home, very strange. We sat at a large table with a couple of Chaps, one of whom was a Queens Park fan. He has the intention of coming up to Hampden Park to see his team play soon. I fail to understand why the Scottish Third Division has taken on such importance of late. Has the Honourable League not always been so? I advised him to get his ticket early, Hampden Park may well be full that day, and very noisy.

We bade farewell to Ross and Clive took me on a tour of the London Underground. Victoria via Camden Town? Camden Town and no visit to Nando’s?

We retired once more to The Swan in Crawley. After the customary pint of Hophead it was time to try something completely different. Jabberwocky a 5% American Black IPA (Triple FFF Brewery, Alton, Hampshire) was full of Malt flavours, Chocolate and Liquorice. So much for Pale, Yellow and Hoppy. There comes a time when one returns to one’s roots, Hector began his Real Ale adventures with Old Peculier (Theakston, Masham, Yorkshire) after all.

Time for bed – said Zebedee.

Pubs visited today:

The Craft Beer Co. – 82 Leather Lane, London, Greater London EC1N 7TR

The Euston Tap – 190 Euston Road, London, NW1 2EF

The Bree Louise  –  69 Cobourg Street,  London, Greater London, NW1 2HH

The Swan – 1 Horsham Road, West Green, Crawley, RH11 7AY

 

Posted in London, Crawley | 1 Comment

Wine at Wolf Strassenfest – 2012, and Bier in Traben-Trarbach

The Breakfast at the Hotel Austria in Mainz was impressive. Clive and I both remarked on the quality of the Scrambled Eggs. The Nürnberg Sausages were also excellent. The 08.30 RB to Koblenz would stop twenty times, Clive chose this train. Paying double the €10 fare to Traben-Trabach now felt like a better option.  Still, it is not every day one goes down the Rhine Gorge.  The clouds were low, not the best of mornings.

Changing at Koblenz and Bullay, we arrived at T-T bang on schedule at 11.40. Jonathan and Kari were sitting outside the Stork Stütze having Coffee, they were anticipating our imminent arrival, [Stan.TC] had watched us cross the Mosel from the vantage point that is the Bruckenschänke. It was now 32.5 hours since Hector began his journey to T-T.

Frank gave us the key for Room 1, a room that is actually two, the dividing door would provide the necessary privacy for The Couple. There was a feeling of deja vu, all over again. [Stan.TC] appeared on the stairs and we headed out to what was once upon a time Rolf’s – the Schlossbergschänke. These premises were closed at Easter when Marg and I were here. The memory of Rolf lives on, however the place has been totally redesigned inside as a restaurant and is now renamed the Schlossbergstübchen. As the first customers of the day at 12.15 they were happy to serve us Gaffel Kölsch.

How do we get to Wolf?

Had Steve been with us he would no doubt have walked. The Tractor was not visible, a Boat was leaving at 13.30, in five minutes time. €5 each for the short journey to Wolf. Sitting on the rear deck in the breeze was still comfortable. The Tractor overtook us halfway.

Arriving by Boat takes one to the wrong end of the Wolf Strassenfest, so we walked back along the river then up to the Tractor Stop. €8 for a Bottle of Trocken Weissewein, €12 Pfand for six glasses. And so The Party began. Two years ago Clive and Maggie missed Wolf when they managed to have a Barge Holiday in the English Midlands instead, Unglaublich!  Jonathan has been a few times now, normally en route to München for the Oktoberfest. This is how [Stan.TC] first came to be sold on a Wine Festival. This year neither is heading on to München, they are both here for Wolf!

Jonathan’s sister – Kari – was making her Wolf Debut, a last minute addition to the Trip, and lucky to get a bed as every hotel in the Valley is booked out for this weekend. We like Kari. Hector was under instruction to write this. She is Kirstie’s Twin, we still like Kirstie.

Maggie was hungry, she returned with an impressive lump of Pork which Clive had to help her finish.  Life can be this difficult.

Wine Stop #2 was full, a band were playing, people were sitting watching and not drinking, a disgrace. At Wine Stop #3 we took a table at the top of the steps outside the toilet block, a handy place. This is also where the best Food Stall in Wolf is located. The Garlic Prawns are a sensation. The Hirsch Gulasch with Noodles and Beeren Sauce is also now a ritual. We like Wolf.  Maggie was hungry again.

Another Band came and took their position on the stairs. The three Trombone Players stood at the very top outside the toilet entrance, this gave us a perfect sound balance. The Lead Trumpet astonished us with his playing on one particular tune. Was it any surprise that Hector tracked him down later on and had a photo taken with him?

Maggie decided that her eyelids were too heavy to keep open and so laid her head on her bag. That was Maggie for the rest of the afternoon. Clive had to help her out and ensure that her glass was empty each time we moved on.

Hector picked out a Bottle for Kari when it was her turn to supply the Liquid. Starting on the right side of the Menu with Price, Trocken and Burgunder, it was only when Jonathan and [Stan.TC] caught up that is pointed out that on the left side the Wine was listed as Red. A Rotwein was planned, this was it, ahead of schedule. [Stan.TC] later managed to replicate a Wine had previously, then it was time for Sekt.

Das Ritual

It is written, the number of bottles of Sekt purchased shall equal the number of people present. The Sekt stall at the corner of the L-shape that is the Wolf Strassenfest had moved slightly. The seating was also enclosed in a Gazebo where the stall would normally be. This is when the day really kicks off. As Kari remarked we had been drinking glasses with a little over 0.1l per serving. It had taken hours to consume very little.

At the halfway stage [Stan.TC] wondered if the Six Bottles of Sekt would be achievable, silly man. Maggie continued to rest her eyes, Kari kept disappearing to make herself unhealthy.

Clive, Hector and Jonathan kept up the pace. A blast of cold air came down the valley, two years ago we were frozen out and had to take refuge indoors. The freak wind ceased, all was normal.

Recognition

Having been a visitor to T-T for ten years it is customary to at least be recognised at Wolf. Fred-The-Hero was here in company. He stopped to say – Hi!

The scores from the Honourable League were secured, another Honourable Draw away from home. We were all in remarkably good condition at the ante-conclusion. The Sun had set. Time to turn the corner and walk down to the river. The Spinning Steaks were in their customary location, one day we will try one. Venison Frikadelle may win out if we expand our food intake.

Two mature ladies had to budge up to let us on a table. In the darkness the town of Wolf was now buzzing. Jonathan became involved in conversation with a Dutch couple behind me. I was invited to join in, or did I just make this up? They spoke English, I insisted on speaking some German. They Couple were from Friesland, not Holland. Piet and Marian kept us amused for what felt like an hour. I suspect we amused them too. My German is way better when I don’t have to think about it, German comes. Piet and Marian were camping on the river bank, their first time at Wolf. Maggie was now wide awake, I changed tables. Piet and Marian were far more interesting, Maggie I had seen already. The conversation turned to the Scottish Parliament and we told how the system was set up so that no single Party could ever hold a majority, until it actually happened. Piet related how Proportional Representation works in the Nederlands. The Over 50s have three seats, I suggested they could hold the balance of power in the years to come given the changing demographics across Northern Europe.

Fond Farewells were given and details exchanged, until next year at Wolf.

How do we get back to Traben-Trarbach?

We expect to go by Taxi, Tractor or Boat, the return is always an adventure. Will the Tractor still be running? How big will the queue be? The Boats will have finished. A Taxi? Where from? Which queue? Do we wait or hijack one?

Arriving at the Tractor Stop there was a Bus, a first? The Destination made no sense, I asked the Driver – T-T? Genau! €2 each back to Traben-Trabach and once more we met Fred-The-Hero and his company. This could have easily been the 62 heading along Argyle St, how wonderful that the Powers that be provided this Chariot.

Time for a Bier

Wine is fine, Bier is better. [Stan.TC] and Maggie headed back to the Altstadt Cafe to see Frank. Clive joined Jonathan, Kari and Hector at Hami’s, Gisela was on duty. Altbier felt more demanding on the taste buds than a fizzy Kölsch. Kari produced her iPad and copied my photos. Jonathan was convinced that I would see the need for one, I am happy to stick with the trusty Samsung Netbook.

Back to Frank’s

There were only two customers not from our group enjoying the Reissdorf Kölsch at the Altstadt Cafe. Jonathan, [Stan.TC] and Kari were soon to call it a night. Maggie wished to do so too, but where was the key? I checked my pockets, Maggie emptied her bag, Clive stated he had no room key. But there it was, in his jacket, just where Maggie had put it. Women and keys.  Jonathan claims he was still here at this point, the Camera never lies…

He is a Bad Influence

Clive stayed up to put the World to Rights as is our custom, he too disappeared. I was left once again with Frank calling up the finest of Music via his Laptop.

Spot the Bass Player

Michael Schenker, Ritchie Blackmore in various guises, Weather Report, even Turning Point. The Jazz did not impress Frank, he likes his music Loud and Heavy. Somehow Tangerine Dream was the last Music of the night.  Frank reminded me that ten years ago Klaus Schulze, original Tangerine Dream member, and composer of many albums in the Hector Schallplatten/CD/DVD Collection stayed at the Altstadt Cafe.  Ten years ago so did Hector!

Another year at Wolf.

Now for the journey home.

Restaurant and bars visited today:

Altstadt-Cafe – Mittelstraße 12, 56841, Traben-Trarbach

Schlossbergstübchen, Mosel Strasse 4, 56841 Traben-Trarbach

Hami’s Pils Stübchen – Weiherstrasse, 56841, Traben-Trarbach

Posted in Mainz, Traben-Trarbach, Wolf | 1 Comment