Prague was not on the original plan for this summer’s vacation, especially as its a main feature of the rapidly approaching big tour of 2012: Hector’s Heroic Homecoming. Budapest is the end point of this trip, arriving by boat down the Danube would be a suitable conclusion, unfortunately the timings from Wien and even Bratisalva did not suit, and so a return to Praha for Marg and Hector was a happy compromise.
I arrived in Prague by train for the first time since 1982, either way one still has to negotiate the Metro. The ticket offices are no longer manned at the Main Station, the machines do not accept Notes. Marg went to buy something to break the Paper Money I had leftover from the last visit five years ago, it was declined – the money Notes were out of date. Fortunately the young couple managing the shop were selling Metro Tickets, how very European, one forgets.
We were soon installed in the Hotel Eurostars David, a Four Star hotel which on a room only basis was great value. The room was more than adequate, the bed huge, enough already.
With the mental compass in operation I guided Marg towards the Old Town. Vodickova was the first familiar mains street re-discovered. Food was on Marg’s mind, the smoking ban was on mine. The New Town Brewery became our first pit-stop. We were given a table beside the Copper in this Micro-brewery, this area was non-smoking. I ordered Bier and Chicken Wings, Marg a Coffee and a Salad.
The Light version of the two Biers on offer has not impressed that much on previous visits, today it certainly hit the spot. After a week of Ost-Deutsch rubbish this was a revelation. Had this been with The Chaps, we would have stayed on, the Bier was excellent, the price was right. The Chicken Wings were huge, Spicy, the best ever. This is a must, I shall be back for more very soon. Marg’s Salad was a disaster, it came in installments and was well withered. The staff did not seem that bothered. They did come alive when I purchased the excellent, but green, polo shirt.
Just off Narodni lies Hector’s favourite Prague water-hole – U Vedvidku – this is a Micro-brewery (in the Attic) and an outlet for Budvar. We found a room of six tables, the non-smoking section in the this very large Germanic-style Bierhalle. Marg was being most compliant, she knew that the Bier intake in the past week had declined to an all time holiday low, mineral water was consumed on my my last evening in Deutschland. That the heavens had opened also motivated us to stay put. At just over a £1.00 per pint a great venue.
Finally we arrived at the Karlovy Most, the Charles Bridge. Once more the sky looked angry, a gale was getting up, the artwork was literally flying, the retailers were hurriedly rescuing their wares and packing up for the day. It was a matter of diving for cover.
We reached U Glaubicu just in time. A favourite place of Marg and Hector this is 10m beyond the end of the Bridge and with a large open window a comfortable place to enjoy – a Bier. This time it IMHO the lesser Pilsner Urquell, on sale at under £1.00, ah well given the way they pour it, a short measure but at this price who complains? The Waitresses were a delight, there was a sense of good humour.
I went exploring, the venue felt larger. At the back was a large non-smoking room This will please The Chaps on our visit, in two weeks.
Crossing Charles Bridge once more we heard strains of a Jazz Singer. Below us was a French Market. We went to investigate – it was Food and Drink galore. Marg considered a Crepe, I considered the wonder of the Bass Player with his six string machine, here was a talent.
We retreated to the Hotel before going out for the evening, it would be cooler, more rain looked less likely. It was time for our second ever Prague Curry, and the first to feature in Curry-Heute. I tried to find where we last ate but failed, it has gone. Nearby was the Indian Jewel where we seemed to impress.
The
re was a Jazz Festival, a stage in the Old Town Square had some acts playing European Jazz, the cool stuff. My Song by Keith Jarrett / Jan Garbarek wafted across the Square between acts, superb. You last heard this at our Wedding, I reminded Marg.
With the streets of Prague now familiar once more I found our way back to Jecna which was a couple of blocks from our Hotel. A Pub that Marg and I enjoyed on our first trip was the penultimate port of call for this first day. We entered U Vocku which we have enjoyed in the past due to it innovative upstairs non-smoking room. The place appeared to be have been done up, maybe it had changed hands to. Two guys blocked our path to the stairwell which was in darkness, both drinking, both smoking. The lower room was empty. I enquired as to the upstairs and was told it was closed. There was no feeling of welcome. We left with dignity.
Just down the hill a couple of blocks on the same side of Jecna is the Pivovarksy Dum, the now well established Micro Brewery. If one cares for experimental Brews they have a variety of everything but Iron Bru. I asked Doris for a Light Bier, Marg had a small Baileys. As with the New Town Brewery, I have always made a point of trying the Bier here but have never found it outstanding, tonight was different. This was a blast of Hops and Citrus, it could have been, dare I say it – A Long White Cloud served under pressure. I had to text Robin immediately, he now looks forward to sampling this in a couple of weeks.
Day 2 began with an air of familiarity, I knew exactly where we were and so was not too surprised when on leaving the Hotel I found myself at the end of . I recognised the name of the street but could not remember why I was walking along it until I spotted U Fleku. We had to check it out. Only one of the three rooms was open, it was still early, about 11.00. I asked the Chaps if there was a non-smoking room, they were uninterested. At least there is a a fair sized open courtyard if one becomes asphyxiated sitting indoors. The plan was to end the day here, Marg enjoyed her last visit to this famous Tourist Trap.
Walking along Narodni, I let Marg choose her first Coffee Stop of the day. There was an array of places to choose from, this one sold Black Rice Pudding, so Marg’s Breakfast was Dessert, I had my usual Sparkling Water and so did not make a note of the location.
Finding U Medvidku with ease, it was Hector’s turn to indulge in Curry-Heute at the Royal Bengal around the corner.
Continuing on to the Old Town we were taking the turn towards the Charles Bridge when a voice behind us gave the immortal greeting: ‘ Hello, Mr and Mrs Hector!’
Marg and I know nobody currently in Prague and who would address us so? It was Mein Host from the Indian Jewel. He had read my positive review on his Restaurant and said he would be in touch.
We spotted a shop selling Russian Dolls of Football teams. I examined the entrails of the Glasgow Rangers Doll to see what the future held. Alas, these players have gone. Today the Charles Bridge was its normal calmer self. The Artwork was safe from the elements, business was engaged. We headed up the hill to the Citadel. It is what one does in Prague despite having taken the same photos often-times before. This is now. Parts of St. Vitus Cathedral have been cleaned up, the work continues.
Sightseeing completed we headed up the hill to the area where the Citadel becomes Altstadt and sat down at a Cafe. Why pay three times the going rate for a drink? I suggested we head up to the head of the hill to check that U Cerne Vola (The Black Ox) was still in operation. I had remembered it as opening in the evening, and was surprised to find it already open mid afternoon.
This venue sells Kozel, my second favourite Czech Bier. The ashtrays on every table confirmed the inevitable. We sat opposite the counter and the Pourer of Bier served us, the main Bert was elsewhere. I decided that this was an excellent photo opperchancity, it would be one Bier and off. Given the likelihood of a Smoky Room the next time we are in town, it could be my last visit for a while.
The Pourer of the Bier did not like having his photograph taken. There was a spouting of abuse, but as it was in Czech who knows how well he was wishing we would enjoy the rest of our day.
It was Marg’s turn to satisfy her palate, the Crepe was secured at the French Market, the Band were not up to yesterday’s standard, no Bass Player.
Marg had a notion that we would dine in the Old Town Square at an Italian Restaurant her friend Liz had recommended from a trip a few weeks previously. The food seemed reasonable, they sold only Staropramen. This is the one Bier on the planet that makes Hector suffer the next day, it must be twenty years since I last tried it, never again. We found an alternative round the back of the Astronomical Clock. The Cafe San Nicola served excellent Pasta, we both had the Tagliatelle Carbonara. Hector washed this down with a new Bier – Zatec, which although slightly sweet was decidedly quaffable.
We returned to the Staroprammen outlet for a disappointing Ice-Cream, Chocolate with Hot Raspberries?
Time was passing, the end of the evening was looming. Without the aid of any Navigational Beacons I astonished Marg by taking the back streets and ending up right outside U Medvidku, I do have homing talents. Is this the only place in Prague which sells Budvar at a reasonable price. We sat once more in the relatively small non-smoking room, an adjacent family had ordered a mountain of food. Eat and drink, is this all some people do on holiday?
Finding U Fleku was a piece of cake, I never thought I would write that, it can be awkward, but technology can simplify matters. The plave was emptying, it had just gone 22.00. Marg had had her fill and so I ordered two Biers so that Marg would not lookout of place. This was a good strategy, the glasses here are 0.4l, and it was approaching last orders. Small glasses and twice the price. This place is a rip-off. We were offered the Schnapps from a tray but were wise enough not to accept. The staff have the air of –this is a freeby – the Bill says otherwise.
Overall, one feels that the Customers are doing the Staff a favour by being there, it is an honour for us to be served by them. Then we can sod-off, no longer required. No, this place leaves a lot to be desired.
And so to Budapest…
The Breweries and Pubs visited:
Novomestský pivovar spol. s.r.o., Vodickova 20, 110 00 Praha 1 (Micro)
U Medvidku, Na Perštýne 7, 100 01 Praha 1 (Ground floor Bierhall, upstairs Old Gott Micro)
Pivnice U Glaubicu, Malostranské námestí 266/5, 118 00 Praha 1 – Malá strana
Pivovarsky Dum, Jecna/Lipova 15, metro Karlova Namesti (Micro)
U Cerneho Vola (The Black Ox), Loretanske Namesti 1, Hradcany
U Fleku (At The Clock), Kremencova 11, Nove Mesto
Checked out:
U Vocka, Jecna, 34, Prague 110 00, (Non-smoking room)
U Zlateho Tygra (The Golden Tiger), Husova 11, Stare Mesto
After a very good Curry we jumped on a Bus and caught up with The Chaps and Chapattis at the Bayerische Löwe. The Hausbier (Vollbier) as it was being called today, felt like the best choice. [Stan.TC] had a plan, we would go to the Andorfer Weiss Brewery.
On entering the seemingly empty cavernous premises I was given the strangest of looks. Did I have a reservation? On asking for a large table I was taken to a side room, in semi-darkness. The light was switched on, the Bier was ordered. Festbier!
