Hector’s Heroic Homecoming – Day the Eleventh – Berlin Biermeile

Posted on August 3, 2012 by Hector

There was talk of someone going out to get the ingredients for Breakfast – Bacon Rolls? Alas, when Hector rose after a much needed night’s sleep, there was no sign of Breakfast. The rain was chucking it down, so no need to make an early departure, the Berlin Mile Street Festival.

Those of us who have been to the Biermeile before know to start at the far end – Frankfurter Tor. Strausberger Platz is nearer Alexanderplatz and is where most begin, however, here lies more of the Bayerische Bier, better to keep the best until last.

For reasons unknown, we all bought the Programme and the 0.2l Glass. Each Bier stall stocks the appropriate glass for each Bier sold, and they are probably cleaner, the Souvenir Glass simply means one avoids the hassle of the Pfand, though some people particularly lust after the Pfand.

The first Bier up for Hector was Newcastle Brown vom Fass. The far end of the festival stocks mostly Pils and so I had no desire at all to risk it. Only here and Palm Springs (not Salt Lake City) (California, USA) have I ever had this English Brew on Tap. Clive was up for it too, Howard, Robin and Mags watched in horror. One needs a sense of humour.

Robin found Primator (Nachod Pivovar, Czech Republic) a Bier that was recommended to us by a passing Scottish Bier enthusiast. Nachod is twinned with Mirfield, Yorkshire, not many people know that.

Augustiner (München, Bayern) could not be passed without due homage being paid to Edelstoff. For the record we walked straight passed the Schottische stand which featured Bellhaven and Green King Ales (really), both best ignored. Standards are high.

Uerige, everyone’s favourite Düsseldorf Altbier was our next encounter. It was also time for Lunch, Fish in various forms was purchased by the majority. Bier and Fische, unglaublich!

 

Zunft Kölsch (Wiehl-Bielstein, NRW) was a new one on us, four had this whilst Hector visited the oppsoite stand – Früh.

The Red Zephyrz

John, the Keyboard Player, with this Scottish Covers Band contacted Hector to say they were playing at the Berlin Biermeile. They were just starting the set as we arrived, about a dozen or so people had followed them over from Blighty. Kirschbier (Klosterbrauerei Neuzelle, Deutschland) felt like a palate cleanser. Mags was straight over to join the fun as we watched the Band.

Uncanny but not Unexpected

The Freiberger Bier stand that maintained Hector’s sanity for three nights in Sassnitz was just after the crossing point at the halfway mark. The Freiberger Festbier had to be purchased, I was pleased to be recognised by the Two Main Chaps running the stall. Who knows what the others had?

Here Comes The Sun

The sky turned blue, the gloom had gone, time for Delerium Tremens (Huyghe, Melle, Belgium). This has been the highlight for Robin and Hector on our previous two visits.

To secure this on draught is always a particular pleasure. This Premium Bier was pricey and was also sold by the most attractive Damsels on the entire Mile. The Power of The Pink Elephant. This wonderful experience was followed by a massive Ice Cream.

And Finally…

The Spaten Zelt (München, Bayern) sucked us in, Oompah Band in full flow. The 0.2l glasses were put away, time for a full 0.5l of Oktoberfest Bier. This year’s or last, who knows?

We left with dignity and much earlier than ever before.

Maybe after three visits we think we have done it. Hundreds of Bier stands from all over the World and we had stopped at half a dozen. Hector is coming to the conclusion that the majority of Bier brewed on the planet is not up to much. We know what we like, and we shall keep searching for more of what we like.

The Chaps and Chapatti decided that our next port of call would be the House of 101 Bier. Crossing to West Berlin this was located with the help of our Bier Guides and a memory of the railway bridge being a handy aid for navigation.

There were ten Biers on Tap, most were Pils. Having left the Biermeile our standards had been established. We read the Menu of Bottled Bier, Edelstoff (Augustiner, München) was the only Bier on the entire List that anyone fancied. We left, The House of 101 Biers had only one and we could get it vom Holzfass at Augustiner am Gendarmenmarkt.

Three Trips to Berlin this Summer and Hector has only had Bier in two Berlin Pubs.

It had to be Schnitzel, this was how the Summer Marathon in Eastern Europe began, what finer way to end it? The Edelstoff was fantastic as always.

Farewell, Lord Clive

Clive came back to the Garden Suburb to collect his bag, his flight was ridiculously early. Better to go and sit it out at the Airport than waste cash on half a night in a hotel and then struggle with middle of the night transport. Robin and Mags retired, Howard and Hector took advantage of living in Wedding.

And so Hector’s Heroic Homecoming featuring Robin’s Random Ramble ends, or does it? Tomorrow night Hector will be in Aberdeen. Sparkling Water sounds like a Great Tipple, there is not a Bier in Scotland that will tempt me, before next Wednesday…

The Brewery and Bier outlets visited today:

Berlin Biermeile – Frankfurter Allee, Berlin

Haus Der 101 Biere – Mommsenstrasse 45,10629, Berlin

Augustiner am Gendarmenmarkt – Charlottenstraße 55, 10117, Berlin

Eschenbräu – Triftstraße 67, 13353, Berlin

Posted in Berlin | 3 Comments

Hector’s Heroic Homecoming – Day the Tenth – The Return to Berlin – #3

Posted on August 2, 2012 by Hector

Decisions, decisions

Back at the Hotel Garni Probst it was time to pack, what to take?

Sorting through the wad of train tickets that were pre-purchased for this Trip there was a sickening feeling when I located the batch for today, they were dated August 1, oops.

Yesterday, all my troubles seemed so far away…

I should have checked this before departure, but how on Earth had I ended up with tickets for the wrong day? The Tin-Tinerary was before me as I made the booking. I know that DB do date tickets for a twenty four hour period with the day before one’s travel being the starting date, however the seat reservations were also for yesterday. I phoned DB in London and as expected nobody was there. I left a message outlining the dilemma. (Post Script: Nobody ever did come back to me.)

Mission Impossible

I had to get seven people to Berlin, today. I resolved to be at Nürnberg Hauptbahnhof just after 06.00 to see what could be done. Sleep was non-existent.

Unsurprisingly, there was no queue. The young lady shared my dilemma and went to see her boss. The tickets were not used and so she suggested a refund could be obtained. I was given an address in Bamberg to send them. Meanwhile I had to purchase a Group Ticket to Berlin for seven, ouch!

It took the rest of the Group some time to realise the implications.

Inter-City Zug

Inter-City Trains may be slower but are far more comfortable than the ICE. Having risen so early I had secured seat reservations. Why anyone considers travelling long distance in Europe without a seat reservation is beyond me. We had to remove people from their seats as we boarded, had the reservation light just come on,or were they playing silly buggers, I shall never know.

By the time we reached Berlin-Gesundbrunnen the train was empty. One stop on the S Bahn and we were back in the Garden Suburb of Wedding. Mein Host-ess at the Pension Regine Braun was out at the shops we were told by her pal, but would be back shortly. Moments later she entered, by this time we had allocated ourselves our previous rooms with one spare, for Lord Clive. She was delighted that Clive was with us as he was on a separate booking.

Not More Curry-Heute?

For once Hector did not have Curry-Heute on his mind, but Yvonne did. She and Craig announced they were hungry and were returning to the Naveena Path some fifty metres away. All but Robin thought this was a good idea, it was hours and kilometres since breakfast. Reluctantly I joined them. Robin went straight to Eschenbräu, he knows the way when he is one block away.

When we joined Robin he was drinking the Pils. I have seen enough Pils this summer to last a lifetime, straight into the Weizen. Once more it was cloudy and tasty. The theory that The Hut sells better Weizen than the Main Bar is proven.

There was discussion about where to go next, Craig and Yvonne were staying put. Ironically never having been to the Garden Suburb before they have now proved reluctant to leave. To stay, or to go, the lack of sleep had made a Very Tired, Old Hector.

Without Exaggeration

The question of moving on soon became moot. We ordered some Fladenbrot, a nibble to keep us going, plus Robin had eaten nothing since breakfast. The sky darkened, unlike Passau where the wrong type of clouds made heavy rain, it took no skill to realise what was imminent. By now there was a significant populous in the Keller. The first drops started a movement indoors. Having gone but a few metres the hailstones fell, they were the size of marbles. Hector has never seen such large hailstones, ouch again!

The extension to the indoor area meant everyone was accommodated. We sat beside two chaps drinking Apple Juice and ensconced in their Laptops. They were amused by Bier-Traveller.com on realising that the Stars were sitting before them.

Schwarze Molle

It was time to try another Bier. The Schwarze Molle is Black as the name suggests, malty and was worth a sample. I could not drink this as a Session Ale. Back to the Weizen.

The Expected Guest

Robin’s phone had been out of commission for days, he left his charger in the hotel a few days into The Trip. It was up to Hector to make contact with John whom we knew was in Berlin. This is the same John who makes the occasional but poignant contributory comments to Curry-Heute. John came in out of the rain with his Group, some were recognised. They had to sit elsewhere such was the pressure on the seating. Still people poured in, nobody was going anywhere, except Craig and Yvonne.

They fly home tomorrow morning. Tomorrow we will be a Perfect Five for the Berlin Biermeile.

The Bill

 The Fladenbrot took over an hour to arrive due to the Meteorological Disruption, and in two batches. Despite this and changing venues, our Lovely Doris had The Bill accurate to the nearest Euro.

The Brewery visited today:

Eschenbräu – Triftstraße 67, 13353, Berlin

Posted in Berlin | 1 Comment

Hector’s Heroic Homecoming – Day the Ninth – Munchen

Posted on August 1, 2012 by Hector

In a moment of rational thinking last evening Jonathan and Hector came to the conclusion that if we were to travel as a group on the optimum Nürnberg-München RE, we would be better buying First Class Bayern Tickets. The train was stowed, the train was delayed, people were invited to take the adjacent slow train, the tactic paid off. Little did we know that there were only twelve First Class seats, we occupied ten.

Curry before Bier

Jim and Aileen met us at München Hauptbahnhof. Neil, Lord Clive and {Stan.TC] joined Hector for Curry-Heute at the magnificent Indien Mango. Howard went to Andechs am Dom, Jonathan, Aileen and Jim went up to the Augustiner Keller, and the rest went to Tegernsee. For some, four hours on a train in one day is not enough, seven is better.

Post Curry, we walked up from Isartor to Marienplatz discovering a wandering Aileen en route. We found Howard sitting alone inside Andechs am Dom. Do you have Spezial Hell?

Hector settled for the ordinary Helles, still pretty good before possibly the finest Weizen on Earth was tackled.

The stay was brief, the S Bahn took us up to the Augustiner Keller. This would be the first time Hector had sat out at this fine venue, previous visits have been at less clement times of year and hence inside. Jim and Jonathan were well installed.

The Keller was relatively empty, two Steins later and the place was stowed. What was most evident that this place is not necessarily known by tourists, thousands were here, mostly local as far as I could tell. Edelstoff vom Holzfass was the Bier of choice. This completed the Bier Circle, back to where we began in Berlin.

Neil and Hector were left as the  company departed to sample a new Bier at the Schneider Haus (im Tal). We were taking things slowly.

Tegernsee done, news reached us the Craig, Yvonne, Robin and Mags were at the Augustiner Brewery Tap, the venue where we have brought in New Year in 2010 and 2011. Some would have us go every year, Huddersfield 2013 it is. Huddersfield?

Neil and Hector crossed the Railway Line to join the people I had not had a Bier with for three days now. They are back in this Saga. They might also have been pleased to see us.

The Edelstoff here is served under pressure, it was decidedly different from the joy of the gravity poured across the way and now Berlin. The less gassy version reigns supreme.

Once again the optimum RE back to Nürnberg was mobbed. Only half of us managed to get seats in the available First Class compartments. A young chap opposite was clearly bluffing. Somebody had a rant about the lack of seats. Today was the start of a Bayern Holiday, everybody was on the move. It may also explain the midweek thousands at the Augustiner Keller. Eventually we all had a seat but not before the Ranter sprayed Bier over the Charming Lady in our Compartment. Who brought the Bier?

Next door a couple of Nürnbergers became involved in conversation with Craig et al. It was no surprise when they turned up for our final Bayerische Bier at Andechs.

The Andechs Doppelbock Dunkels has become our traditional Nightcap. A Bock that lives up to its name and completely different from our normal Light. Hoppy Bier. This is Sweet, Dark and Strong, superb.

There was a Falafel, it was terrible.

This was farewell to Neil who flies home from München tomorrow. [Stan.TC] and Jonathan will stay an extra day in Nürnberg before heading home via Köln. They are not in this Saga anymore.

Hector went back to the noisy hotel room, then something happened…

 

The Breweries and Bier outlets visited today:

Andechs am Dom – Weinstraße 7, 80333, München

Augustiner Keller – Arnulfstraße 52, 80335, München

Augustiner Bräustuben – Landsberger Straße 19, 80339, München

Kloster Andechs Das Wirthaus – Königstraße 55, 90402, Nürnberg

Posted in München, Nürnberg | 1 Comment

Hector’s Heroic Homecoming – Day the Eighth – Bamberg, A Bier too far…

Posted on July 31, 2012 by Hector

After the excesses of yesterday there should ave been a good night’s sleep, alas in the Cupboard which was Room 221 in Hotel Garni Probst, there was a problem. A generator of some description was located outside the window, this meant the it was always difficult to get back to sleep due to the deep throbbing. Well, that’s my excuse.

The Tintinerary showed that today there would be Curry-Heute in Erlangen, there was. Howard, Neil and Lord Clive made the investment in a Bayern Ticket worthwhile and we were A-Salted in the Erlangen Curry House.

The Carrot for Erlangen was not the Curry but the possibility of a new Bier at the Steinbach Brewery. The normally Trusty HTC let Hector down, no Maps were forthcoming. With two Geographers in the Company we decided to apply some logic to locate Hauptstrasse.

Ecce Hauptstrasse!

If I were to position the Hauptstrasse in this town I would put it here – said Hector as he turned the corner, and there it was! There was a fanfare of Trumpets, self blown. Hauptstrasse 116 proved to be on the edge of the Town Centre a good ten minute walk away. The Curry might go down.

This was Hector’s third trip to Erlangen, he had yet to sample the local Bier. It was not about to happen at this instant either, Steinbach was closed. Ruhetag was assumed, though [Stan.TC] told us later it did not open until 17.00.

Howard led the way to Kitzmann, he was there last year. By this time Hector was seriously thirsty, a brisk walk following the Salty Curry. Orange-Lemonade was called for, with a Helles to wash it down. The others tackled a Festbier, not for me.

The Bier was pleasant, not outstanding.  It is never a first choice at The Allison Arms  (Glasgow, Scotland).

Onwards to Bamberg

Jonathan and [Stan.TC] were Buttenheim bound the last time we saw them. I knew the train would not stop there, Dr. Stan would have known that. We played catch-up. Schlenkerla is closed on a Tuesday and so this would be the strangest of Day Trips to the Bier Capital of The World.

The Lagerbier at Spezial is Smoky, but not as severe as Schlenkerla, perhaps just as well today. Neil should have been throwing it down as he had not endured the excesses of yesterday, this was not the case.

Keesmann is located a good bit out of the Centre, another brisk walk. [Stan.TC] and Jonathan were still across the road at Mahrs when we arrived. Being mid-afternoon, there was no problem getting a table. The Head Doris was on duty, there was a glimmer of recognition. She must know us by now.

The Sternla Lagerbier was ordered, superb as ever. Normality was being restored. The Mahrs-tians joined us, they ordered food, Schnitzel-Pizza no less. We were a healthy six once more. Four people are not in this Saga today.

BOB

Jonathan, the Reliable Master of the International Bus-Timetable announced a Bus back to the BOB connecting to the Bahnhof. Back to Nürnberg. Had I really been to Bamberg? Next Summer, if not before…

Jonathan applied his talents to the Nürnberg U-Bahn and took us up the hill to the Augustiner Schranke, not more Edelstoff, surely? This outlet has Schlenkerla von Fass, the square was completed. [Stan.TC] and Hector walked back to the Hotel, this had been the quietest of days.

München tomorrow, after another night with the Big Generator, why had I not asked for another room?

The Breweries and Bier outlet visited today:

Kitzmann  –  Sudliche Stadtmauerstrasse 25, Erlangen

Spezial  –  Obere Königstraße 10,  96052, Bamberg

Keesmann-  Wunderburg 5, 96050, Bamberg

Augustiner Schranke  –  Beim Tiergartnertor 3, 90403, Nürnberg

Posted in Nürnberg, Bamberg, Erlangen | 1 Comment

Hector’s Heroic Homecoming – Day the Seventh – Annafest

Posted on July 30, 2012 by Hector

The journey from Passau to Nürnberg was the shortest of the Trip. Lord Clive and Jonathan checked into the Ibis, [Stan.TC] led the rest of us to his favoured Hotel – Garni Probst. It was just as well Hector had left The Cat at home, everyone seemed to be allocated a fine room, I had a cupboard.

At this point The Friends of Hector split. Craig, Yvonne, Robin, Neil and Mags had nefarious activities planned. [Stan.TC], Jonathan, Clive, Howard and Hector made our rendezvous at the Hauptbahnhof with Jim and Aileen. They are resident in München this week, they took the opperchancity to join us at the last day of Annafest.

Arriving in Forchheim we had to find the Bus to Kellerwald. A Driver pointed to the appropriate vehicle, the Bayern Ticket covered the extra short journey.

For those who have never been, the Annafest is like no other. An entire hillside, covered in forest, is the location of the true Kellers in the region. The Breweries of Franconia are well represented, Keller Bier being the Golden Liquid on offer. This is a day of Stein-drinking, so pacing oneself is mandatory. It would be a heavy day regardless.

The Fit reached the top of the hill three days before the rest. A shaded bench secured, Doris brought the Bier. Neder (Forchheim) is our traditional starting point, start at the top, work one’s way down. The Bier is superb, dry and hoppy, and always served cool.

Here, Fishy-Fishy

There are rituals, Smoked Mackerel at a Bierfest is certainly one.  Hector was not to be denied.  And some people think I only eat Curry?

Some suggested we have another – what? We moved on.

Rittmayer (Hallerndorf) was a new port of call. The difference in Bier quality was astonishing, you can’t win them all.

Hebendanz (Forchheim) took us back to familiar territory, by this time the party was in full swing. It was also time to consult the wonderful DB App to check on the optimum departure time for the München Two.

Aileen was keen to go to the Löwenbräu (Buttenheim) Keller. She was also convinced that Hansi would be there to greet us. Disappointment set aside, we found a table in the hub of the entire site. Our Bert was indifferent at times in bringing the Bier. This is where we were, this is where we would be staying. Löwenbräu could well be the King of the Keller Bier.  Who is Hansi?  Well the owner of Löwenbräu our favourite  Buttenheim     Brewery of course!

Jim and Aileen had to take their leave, they missed the train for which their ticket was valid, so an ICE it was. They texted later to say that the Gripper charged them no excess for being on the wrong train, the joy of being the Innocent Tourist, not.

Hello Hansi!

Taking a break, I recognised the adjacent Chap, we must stop meeting like this. Hansi was collared, em invited to come over and greet the gang.

I have been making regular pilgrimages to Buttenheim since 1997, the rest in the subsequent years. He must wonder as to the periodic influx of Scots at his Buttenheim Gastätte. He did drop a couple of vouchers, this posed a question – who gets the Free Bier, then it was solved, buy it, share it.

Bert was happy with his Tip.  Or was it because we knew The Boss?

Bus or Taxi

Yes, it was one of those back to the Station.

And then there were three…

For reasons unknown, we persuaded Doris at the Andechs House to serve us some of the very Spezial Hell. It remains one of life’s long unsolved mysteries as to why the  Nürnberg outlet sells the signature Helles whereas the München am Dom outlet does not.  The man who was last out definitely had a smile on his face.

Two little Boys…

For completely unknown reasons, Lord Clive persuaded me at gun point to consume one final Weizen. Kuchlbauer (Abensberg) is one of these very average Biers typically sold in German Bars, which is why our philosophy is to visit the Brewery Taps of the best places.  We had a Doggy for company.  Kebab Time.

 

The Bier Outlets visited today:

Kellerwald – Forchheim

Kloster Andechs (Nürnberg) – Königstraße 55, 90402, Nürnberg

The Doggy Place – Nürnberg

 

Posted in Nürnberg, Forchheim | 2 Comments

Hector’s Heroic Homecoming – Passau – Day the Sixth – Robin’s Random Ramblings #2

Posted on July 29, 2012 by Hector

There was time for a bit of sightseeing before the Noon Curry-Heute Rendezvous with Howard.

After a very good Curry we jumped on a Bus and caught up with The Chaps and Chapattis at the Bayerische Löwe. The Hausbier (Vollbier) as it was being called today, felt like the best choice. [Stan.TC] had a plan, we would go to the Andorfer Weiss Brewery.

There was a Bus up the Hill to Renweg outside Passau, [Stan.TC] had already walked up the Hill and down again in the interest of ensuring a purposeful journey. He and Craig did the walk, the rest took the Bus. The Keller Hell was unfiltered, gassy and slightly sweet. Craig and [Stan.TC] arrived in a slightly sweaty condition, they required Refreshment. Whilst we savoured the Bier, Lord Clive was able to play us a sequence from a Radio Broadcast featuring a Physics Contemporary of, and for once I shall revert to his Sunday name, Dr Stan. His reaction was choice.

The Rain was approaching, we took a large table indoors and moved on to the Weizen. This had Big Bananas, just how good would the Weizen Bock be? Sensibly we tried the Bock last, it was very quaffable, dangerous. The Best Bier in Passau, so far. Time to go.

Jonathan had worked out that if we continued on the Bus Route which brought us here, it would take us on its Circular Route to the Hacklberg Brewery, it did. Though some people audibly did not trust his judgement. Why?  What research had others done?

The Hacklberg Brauhaus is a stunning Building, though there is a sense of juxtaposition in styles. The Brewery has been built incorporating an Old Wall of some significance.

On entering the seemingly empty cavernous premises I was given the strangest of looks. Did I have a reservation? On asking for a large table I was taken to a side room, in semi-darkness. The light was switched on, the Bier was ordered. Festbier!

The Festbier proved sufficient for Hector, another worthy offering. Some moved on to try the Weizen and the Dunkels, they even ordered food. Significantly, Lord Clive and Howard did not, Curry-Heute was calling.

Others customers drifted in and out, the place was certainly under-utilised. We were a few minutes by Bus from the Town Centre yet the people were not coming. This was a splendid outlet and served far better Bier than on offer in the Centre.

After the Comedy Curry-Heute there was insufficient time to go back to Town, those who can stay our after 20.00 regrouped at the Alten Brauhaus near the Hotel. Neil, Jonathan, Howard, Clive and Hector had the place to ourselves. Who was last out?

Passau is a quiet place on a Sunday evening.

The Pub and Breweries visited today:

Bayerische Löwe  –  Dr.-Hans-Kapfinger-Straße 3,  94032, Passau

Andorfer Weiss – Renweg, 2, Passau

Hacklberg  –  Bräuhausplatz 3  94034 Passau-Hacklberg

Zum Alten Brauhaus – Braugasse 5, Passau

 

 

 

Posted in Passau | 1 Comment

Hector’s Heroic Homecoming – Passau – Day the Fifth – Robin’s Random Ramblings #1

Posted on July 28, 2012 by Hector

The Trains from Ceske Budejovice via Linz to Passau would stop at every lamp-post. [Stan.TC] cheered us up even more by telling us that he had discovered the last section of the journey to Linz would be by Replacement Bus. In Linz we had exactly an hour to drink a Stiegl Helles in a Station bar, by this time Lord Clive had arrived in Passau. He was able to find out about the best way of getting to the Hotel Wilder Mann. Having established the location of the Bus Stop and the time of departure, Hector was not amused when asked how much the Fare was.

The Sky was overcast, conditions were muggy yet the clouds looked to be of the Alto Cumulus variety, Hector did not predict Rain. It started to Rain just as the Bus came. By the time we alighted at Rathaus Platz it was chucking it down. How can one get soaked walking twenty five metres. Marg thought this was a good time to phone.

It was Robin’s desire that we take him back to Passau on this Trip. He has been here a couple of times before and has always raved about the Picturesque Nature of the Town, the Confluence of Three Rivers, – The Donau, The Inn and the Ilz, oh, and some Breweries. This was the Leg of the Trip entitled Robin’s Random Ramblings – he would take us to all the wonderful places he knew. Robin sat on a chair in Reception and announced that he did not recognise anything. This was meant to be the start of Hector’s two days off, Hector was back.

Lord Clive, by now an expert on all things Passau suggested we go next door to the Rathaus Keller. The Stockbrau-Löwenbrau Helles did not particularly impress. After the delights of Czech Bier, this simply did not compete.

The Tin-Tineray showed Zum Alten Brauhaus to be a few metres further down the Peninsula. We moved on, the Rain still pouring. The Company was split, Howard, Neil and Hector sat at an adjacent table to the rest of the Group. At least Jonathan made the effort to include us in. The Arcobrau Zwicklbier proved to Flat, and Lifeless despite having been pumped. The Weizen was unremarkable. We all ate well, some thought their meal was the best ever, have they not been to the Augustiner Tap?

Being on the periphery, Neil, Howard and Hector went to look for the other venue on the peninsula, Zum Hoffragner, it was closed, perhaps permanently. Returning to Zum Alten Brauhaus we announced our departure for the Town Centre. Vic, of Evening Star – Brighton fame, told me last week that the Bayerischer Lowe at the ZOB was the best place in town. Having some idea of the scale of the place, I knew we could walk back there in ten minutes or so. Lord Clive came with us.

There was a familiar voice behind us as the four of us reached the door, Jonathan and Robin had managed to take the Bus, [Stan.TC] was coming on foot.

There was an Event taking place just up the hill, so the Youth of Passau were assembled there. This left the Bayerischer Löwe empty, a large table was ours. The Naturubes Vollbier served in a Steinkrug was again considered to be fine, not outstanding. Most of us moved on to the Weizen, this had Bananas – flavour at last. This was the best Bier of the Day.  Hector was last to leave the building.

Jonathan and [Stan.TC] were now emerging as Temporary Hectors, they found the Last Bus back at 23.30. [Stan.TC] stood describing how the Bus in front of us was the one we wanted, as it pulled away. It was a pleasant walk along the Banks of The Donau…

 

The Pubs visited today:

Rathaus Keller – Rathaus Platz, Passau

Zum Alten Brauhaus – Braugasse 5, Passau

Bayerischer Löwe  –  Dr.-Hans-Kapfinger-Straße 3,  94032, Passau

Posted in Passau | Comments Off on Hector’s Heroic Homecoming – Passau – Day the Fifth – Robin’s Random Ramblings #1

Hector’s Heroic Homecoming – Day the Fourth – Hector can organise a Pi**-Up in a Brewery

Posted on July 27, 2012 by Hector

Bold as today’s title claim may be, the remarkable things was the unexpected issue of Taxis, or the lack thereof at Ceske Budejovice Railway Station.

We were now Nine, Ricky flying back to Yeadon Airport later in the day. Hector envisaged three Taxis to take us from Station to the Hotel Savoy which was just beyond the distance people were prepared to walk. [Stan.TC] spotted the Taxi Office first, it was closed. Two Ladies standing at the window showed me a Telephone Number, I called. Now in the Czech Republic I make a point of speaking English, The Chap on the other end did not. He was at least aware that there was a need to supply transport. A Taxi came for the Ladies and flipping to Deutsch, Hector convinced the driver that three Taxis were required, sorted.

We had checked in comfortably in time to meet the main objective of the day – the Tour of Budweiser-Budvar. With our places on The 14.00 Tour confirmed there was time for a Pivo in the large, modern hall which is part of the Brewery Complex. A Table for Nine was not available at the entrance, and no we could not move a chair or two. As Craig had smelled smoke he was unwilling to accept the larger table on offer in the interior, he disappeared with Yvonne. In the end we were united at a large table, the air filtering system made the atmosphere acceptable. Budvar at Source, achieved at last. Various versions were available, we chose the Krausend which, as we understood it, was Lagered for longer.

Everyone enjoyed the Brewery Tour, especially at the half-way mark when we were able to taste the unfiltered, unpasteurised, almost ready Bier. The Lagering Tanks were in a room whose temperature was around 0C, just what we needed on a hot day.

The Tour completed there was a quick return to the Brewery Tap. A South-African couple who were on The Tour joined us.

We could easily have sat here, forever. Craig and Yvonne took this option. That was the last we heard of them. The Bus took us the short distance back to the Town Centre, Hector was keen to see the Main Square, however we encountered the Budvarka Pivnice en route. Reserved Tables appears to be a tactic employed by the Waiters to restrict where people sit. Despite asking for a non-smoking room we were shown to a reserved table in the heart of the room. [Stan.TC], Neil and Jonathan to the opportunity to eat, Hector had Curry on his mind, I went a wandering.

The Main Square was splendid, the light improving all the time. Hector now had two missions, finding the Gateway to India was simple, finding another venue which was non-smoking could be the more difficult. The Singer Pub had both inside and outside seating, and a range of Bier.

I returned to Budvarka to advise The Chaps. Howard and Mags were up for another Curry-Heute experience, this time there were many positives.

Suitably fed we joined the others at the  Singer Pub. I had about three pounds left in Czech Crowns, this would last the night. Howard stood a round, even at these prices, still appreciated.

The Olympic Opening Ceremony was imminent. A large screen was lowered for a Projector TV. We watched the Ceremony without the inane commentary we would have had at home. The sound of the TV was down, various Bands playing Covers kept our ears entertained. It was more fun this way working out for ourselves what was happening. (P.S. : Though it was until Sky News the next day that it was confirmed that The Dam Busters March had featured.) Rowan Atkinson stole the show, even without sound, his Mr Bean segment amused. I kept remarking that this was way better than the usual nonsense of people jumping up and down – Dance – some people call it.

Cue the Dancers.

The Brewery and Pubs visited today:

Budvar Bewery  –  Karolíny Svetlé 512/4, 370 04, Ceské Budejovice, Ceská republika

Budvarka Pivnice  –  Karla IV 8-10, 3700,1 Ceské Budejovice

Singer Pub  –  Ceská 55,  370 01, Ceské Budejovice

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Hector’s Heroic Homecoming – Day the Third – Many Pragmatic Returns

Posted on July 26, 2012 by Hector

 Is Hector entitled to Czech Citizenship?

Some were up and out early. As nobody in their right mind would pay for an Ibis Breakfast, people visited various outlets around Andel. Ricky insisted that he and [Stan.TC] go for a Bier. We rendezvoused at Noon and the Tram took us across the River. A local Student advised us where to change for our destination. He was intending studying Physics at St. Andrews, enough already.

Somehow, nine of us alighted from the Tram, [Stan.TC] was left behind. The real Dr Stan would have been on the ball.

Arriving at U Klococnika, many were sitting outside on the Garden Benches. Ricky and I entered first, a choice of Green Label or Red Label, we chose Green, a good choice on this occasion.

As this was a get served at the bar establishment we were first to sit at the large table at the far end of the room. People were smoking, Craig walked in and back out. Yvonne was sent to relay the message, but they managed to find a Bench and we were sorted.

Readers will realise that this Blog is very different from that written two weeks ago whilst in different company – sightseeing? Coffee stops? Just to show that we were taking in the surrounding ambience, I am able to report that U Klococnika is directly opposite the Prague Prison.

The Bier was Kacov, the unpasteurised version, very tasty. This was another of the classic scenarios of the Bier is great, the price unbelievable why leave so soon? Well, we had to wait for [Stan.TC] who arrived on the next Tram.

The Tram Depot was the original plan for the day, however, Mr Holden realised that the Tram we were on was not going to the correct destination, it was crossing town to our must-visit Bier-outlet, U Sadu – Birthplace of Hector.

The Search for Pivo

I went to investigate the Bier the rest secured a shaded table directly outside the door. Asking for Ricky’s Bier recommendation – Uneticka 12 (lezak nefilyrovany) the Bier Pourer looked blank, the two Waiters looked blank.. I was led outside and shown two boards. Our Bier choice was last on the list, we tried again. Patience, perhaps even Service please?

The Uneticka 12 was superb. As my Czech will translate, this was again an unpasteurised Bier, very dry, great after-taste.

The Wrath of Doris

We ordered various non-Curry dishes, Hector went for Chicken Wings again just in case they were as good as yesterday’s – they weren’t. A Doris brought [Stan.TC] the wrong meal, and plonked two Salads down on the table that nobody had ordered. The Tut was unnecessary. Eventually [Stan.TC]’s dish was removed, so were the Salads and given to the adjacent table, no apology to either table. Meanwhile, Howard had nothing. His Ribs did not appear until they were re-ordered. By the time they came we were all able and willing to help Howard complete the destruction of the half pig in from of him.

 Happy Birthday, Hector!

There was a Birthday Card, produced by Jonathan no doubt as few others in the company possess the technical skills. Thank you, Jonathan. There was a Birthday Cake, organised by Yvonne who scooped off some of the Cream before it was officially cut. This was Hector’s first ever taste of Cake, Hector does not eat Cake or add Salt to his Meals. The Cake was moist, creamy, chocolaty, everything sensible people avoid. Thank you, Yvonne.

 The Bier was excellent, the party Atmosphere in full swing, Mr Holden was taking no prisoners as usual. Time to leave. The Staff were not engaging, it was as if we, The Customer, were in the way. Hopefully in the long term, Blog entries such as this will make these people realise what running a Pub/Restaurant is actually about.

Just around the corner lies Kralovstvi, what would this hold? A Pub no Garden or Pavement Seating. If it was not smoke-free, Craig would walk. Doris had one customer, a table on the far side of the room appeared acceptable. Craig mentioned non-smoking and we were uprooted and taken to an Inner Room, it was guaranteed to be smoke free. Cerna Hora 12 was the best Bier on offer, ten were ordered, ten arrived. Doris would pop in every so often to that all was well, another Bier felt appropriate, and so the afternoon developed into one of the Legendary Sessions. Ricky kept us amused with his tales of The World’s Daftest Man.

Fried Bread with Garlic?

Doris was determined that we would buy food, she brought in a Menu and translated the lot into English – aloud. Where was Peter? In the end she brought us a Round of Deep Fried Bread with Garlic, a suitable Snack. We wished now that we could have given her the business, tomorrow we promised her. This was a great Back-street venue run by an enthusiastic Hostess, the difference significant between this and up the road at U Sadu, and the even Sadder Chap at Pivovarksy Dum.

Jonathan, [Stan.TC], and Ricky headed off into Town to another venue before retiring. [Stan.TC] was tired, further proof that he is not the real Stan. Hector led the rest on a venture for Curry-Heute. The Tram did not take us to the door of the Curry House, there was dissent.

The Venues visited today:

U Klococnika – Na Veseli 48, Pancrac, Praha 4

U Sadu – Skroupovo namesti 6, Zizkov, Praha 3

Kralovstvi – Kubelikova 36, Zizkov, Praha 3

Intended Venue (Holden Tours)

Prvni Pivni Tramway,  Na Chodovci 1a  140 00                     (Tram to Sporilov)

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Hector’s Heroic Homecoming – Day the Second – The Voyage Home

Posted on July 25, 2012 by Hector

 No Sleep until Ceske Budejovice

We were six in a compartment of six, perfect. The train crawled to Dresden then turned up the Elbe Tal towards Bad Schandau. We would pass through Kurort Rathen, the highlight of Hector and Marg’s Summer Vacation two weeks before. The Chaps got to see the Bastei Bridge, being a Romantic at heart, Hector phoned Marg as we passed by.

The arrival in Praha

The Ibis at Mala Strana was not difficult to locate from the Andel Metro Station. Hector was sharing with Robin for two nights, so No Sleep until Ceske Budejovice.

The Metro took us back over to Karlovo Namesti from where we walked down to Vodickova and the Novomestky Pivovar. Neil was waiting in the large room to the right, the Waiter recognised that we must be the Group joining Neil and escorted us through. This was Neil’s third day already.

Robin joined Neil sampling the Dark Pivo, the rest of us went for the excellent Light. I knew I was on a winner here having tried this on the previous visit. The place was non-smoking, and I had Chicken Wings to look forward to.

Now who said: Yvonne wouldn’t have eaten them like that?

The Waiters looked after us well and brought the mass of Chicken Wings and more Bier. Superb, all were happy, fed and watered. Time to move on.

With umbrellas and jackets deployed I showed them the way to Narodni and hence U Medvidku. We were able to secure the only non-reserved table in the non-smoking room. Initially the Waiter felt all were reserved, his Colleagues advised him otherwise. Throughout our stay people came in, saw the reserved signs and left. How much business was lost?

This is possibly the biggest outlet of Budvar in Prague, another treat.

Remember you’re a Womble!

By this time the Overground Advance Party had entered the Czech Republic and had stopped off at Beroun where Pivo was at rural prices, no we were not going out to join them. We climbed the stairs and found the tables all reserved, but from stated times. We were good for a Bier. The Old Gott Micro-brewery is housed in the Attic (no Anne Frank references…). The Bier was impressive, not too dark, still bitter.

Something happened

A South Korean Chap was wandering around with an over-sized Video Camera, this was not for Holiday shots. His mate was the translator into English, he had one of the Brewery Staff translating into Czech. As we were the biggest group in the Attic with newly charged glasses we had to perform for whatever audience he had in mind. Craig was in the corner and so was filmed and interviewed. Why do we like German and Czech Bier so much? ‘Consistency‘ I offered for Craig to repeat, he did.  Ever the Marketing Man.   ‘It’s Cheap!‘ was Yvonne’s submission. Shocking, this is not why we are here, though it helps. At not much more than a £1.00 per pint, The Price  does aid the wallet.

The Brewer passed us on the way out and took a bow, he seemed very pleased with himself, and why not?

Pivovarsky Dum was where we agreed to rendezvous with Jonathan, [Stan.TB] and Ricky, yes the man from Bradford had been picked up en route to the Hull Ferry Crossing. They were already in situ at the agreed time of 20.30, sitting at a table for six. We were ten in all. Mein Host said he had no seats for us. I asked if I could move chairs to create a larger table, not permitted. The Seven of us nearly walked out when he suddenly offered a table for six. Robin and Hector joined the Overlanders, the rest sat in the raised part of the room. So no seats downstairs or in the room to the rear?

Ricky had been in the company of the man formerly known as Dr Stan for some three days, he was concerned. The Glasgow based Friends of Hector were convinced that Dr Stan was kidnapped by Aliens some two years ago. Ricky is convinced that Big Stan has been cloned, he remains unsure as to which version of the numerous versions has accompanied us on this trip.

Meanwhile the saga of a Pub Manager doing his very best to annoy his customers continued.

When a table for four beside us became available I asked if we could move our friends down, not permitted. What was this guy about? Jonathan had tried to secure a large table on arrival, not permitted. Other groups came in, he tried to sit them two with a couple, three with another. They all left. In the end ten of us walked out after one Bier, he let us go. We left with dignity, but Ricky made a point of telling him why we had left.

The Bier was nothing like as good as it was two weeks previously, it was much thinner and less Citrus. I had convinced Robin that it would rival our favourite Tempest Ale, it came nowhere near.

I do not think we shall be going out of our way to spend an evening at Pivovarsky Dum in the near future.

 Wombling On

Somehow I knew that with Ricky in tow, Trams would now feature. Rather than take the Metro back to Andel, Ricky knew the Tram number to cross The Vlatava. Having been to Praha more than twenty times there is an element of trust, but one is always beware of Holden Tours.

Jumping off the Tram a stop or so before Andel, we were marched in Holden-style into a typical Prague Pub, the Jamajka. With many rooms a level below the street this was a popular and very smoky establishment. Craig took one look and bailed, Yvonne went too. It was bedtime for Robin and Mags, Jonathan protested about the smoke then took his seat with [Stan.TC], Neil, Howard, Ricky and Hector.

Unpasteurised Pivo was brought at a price reflecting that this was a locals establishment, it was enjoyable and if it wasn’t Nymburk then someone can advise me as to what it was.

Across the road lay another supplier of Pivo, the Kavarna Jarda Meyer. Again the majority were smokers but we found a table at the open door and basically tried not to block the exit. If only the Chap sitting behind me as thoughtful every time he wanted to go for a P.

The décor was as cheap as I have ever encountered, cardboard boxes adorned the walls. A Big Box stuck out into the room across from us, the piece de resistance?

The Bier was Velen 12, a Wheat Bier, the bananas were not huge. This was my first Czech Weizen, not bad at all. The final Bier of the night was Pater, a classic Czech cold, yellow and fizzy Bier. This was better than average and way better than the too famous Pilsner Urquell.

We called it a halt, tomorrow is a big day, it will be Hector’s Fifth Birthday.

The Micro-breweries and Pubs visited today:

Novomestský pivovar spol. s.r.o., Vodickova 20, 110 00 Praha 1 (Micro)

U Medvidku, Na Perštýne 7, 100 01 Praha 1 (Ground floor Bierhall, upstairs Old Gott Micro)

 Pivovarsky Dum, Jecna/Lipova 15, metro Karlova Namesti (Micro)

Nymburk Jamajka – Staropramenna 23, Smichov, Praha 5.

Kavarna Jarda Mayer – Straropramenna , Smichov, Praha 5

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