The Monthly Visit to The Staggs

 

As has become the pattern, Howard contacted Nigel, Mein Host in advance to warn him of the monthly invasion form Glasgow.  As ever he promised us an array of Light, Hoppy, Dry and Citrus Ales which would make the trip worthwhile.  That Nigel has a preference for this style of Ale does help, his customers must love them too else he would never get way with the Board.

The party split at Waverley, those with free bus travel headed for their preferred mode of transport whilst the rest of us negotiated the mess that is Waverley Station and took the train the single stop to Musselburgh.  Somehow the gang of eight arrived simultaneously.  Neil, travelling from Linlithgow, was not far behind.

First up today was Buxton’s (Derbyshire) Kinder Downfall at 4.3%.  Although I the correct style, it did not pack any punch flavour-wise.  Oakham’s (Peterborough, Cambridgeshire) Scarlet Macaw at 4.4% was a guaranteed winner.  First tasted last month in St. Albans, this could have been the session Ale of the day, sadly it went off as soon as we all raided the Tap.

‘Man you got to move on, man you’ve got to move…’

I did ask Craig when we were moving to Leith (as was his plan the first day we all came through to Musselburgh), apparently we were staying.

DJ was not with us, but is welcome to join us anytime…

We did not stray far, another Oakham classic Bishop’s Farewell at 4.6% was a perfect follow on.  Now in any pub in Scotland this would be as good as one could hope for in one session, however, Nigel was not finished pleasing his customers – the Oakham Citra at a lesser 4.2% was a worthy follow on.  Meanwhile George, The Duke of Hamilton, was attacking the Hawkshead (Staveley, Cumbria) USPA at a mighty 6% for much of the afternoon.  George was a very Happy Chap this afternoon.  Indeed I did end the day on this myself.  Whilst not as outstanding at the equivalent NZPA this remains outstanding.  The New Zealand Hops should be back with us soon…

Tempest’s (Scottish Borders) Long White Cloud at 5.6% was the most outstanding Ale at the end of last year as produced in Scotland.  Somehow the Brewer lost his way and it lost its in your face assault, however, there are signs that it could be coming back to its best.  We hope so.

Hector appears to have taken many photos of Yvonne today, something to do with a statement made by Craig before she was permitted to leave the house.  I have limited the public to a soupscan.

Today we were joined by Colin Valentine, Mr. CAMRA himself, always a pleasure.  And what does this say about The Staggs?  Fancy giving customers what they want?  It’ll never catch on.  Graeme took a break from his bar duties and joined us for a pint.  He had a publication with articles on the controversial Cask Return System.  Graeme assured us that we could not be supplied with the quality of Ale we receive without it.  So, he was in favour then.

As ever, there was interaction with the locals.  Our faces are now recognised, they also know we tend to leave before the night shift comes in.  We left, with dignity and headed for the 20.30 back to the Metropolis where sadly this range of Ale is not available.

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The new Wetherspoons in Helensburgh

 Sir Henry Bell

The people of Helensburgh have waited years for a Wetherspoons to open.  It nearly happened when the old cinema on James St. was considered but another chain developed that site.  Hector has only crossed their threshold a couple of times.  The Commodore has introduced Ales in the last couple of years, but rarely has anything special unless they have a Festival.  The planned opening was at the start of this week but an infrastructure problem delayed this.  Somehow Jonathan and Robin found themselves here yesterday despite today being the rescheduled official opening day.

Ten Ale Taps

Ten Ale Taps in Helensburgh, in thirty one years of frequenting this town I never thought I would see this.  Eight of the Taps were actually dispensing Ale.  Only one  Ale was suitable for the Chaps:  Fyne Ales (Cairndow, Argyll and Bute) Jarl at 3.8% has become a firm favourite.  This was a working day and so it was also a sensible choice.  The staff seemed familiar, so did many of the customers.  I always find service in Wetherspoons to be poor, never enough people serving.  The youngsters today will still be coming to terms with pouring Ale, one simply could not.

The number of Babies in the Pub was a concern.  Hector simply cannot accept this modern day phenomenon of Weans running around, Babies screaming – a traditionalist at heart.

There was a fine turnout from The Company: Jonathan, Robin, [Stan.TB], Brother Gerry,  Howard, Steve and eventually Tracey showed.  Eleanor could not miss out either.

We shall certainly be back – if as the Manager says – they will always have Bier on from Fyne Ales then this should guarantee our custom.

But, what happens when an Ale goes off?  We shall see…

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An Afternoon in Lancaster, then home to…

Simon was on the platform to greet us, for once I was not The Hector

The Three Mariners was the first port of call.  Simon, Brother-in-Law of the absent Jonathan,  was insistent that we appreciate the Kultur of Lancaster.  The Castle, and until  recently the Prison of those maintained at Her Majesty’s Pleasure, was en route.  We arrived at Pub six minutes before 12.00, the door was locked.

By the time we assembled Doris#1 had opened the door.        Titanic’s 4.1%  (Stoke-on-Trent, Staffordshire) Iceberg was the Ale of choice.  Hector felt safe ordering this fine cool, crispy Ale outwith any references to boats and sinking.     Simon, Robin, and many more had this lovely Starter to the day.  Doris was happy to see us, I assured her that she was seeing us at our best, the day would evolve.

A Tale of No Curry

Simon, we like Simon,  lead us to The Sun and announced it was lunchtime, so Hector left The Company and went off in search of a Curry-Heute.  Sadly after many phone-calls, a traipse around Lancaster, and a Takeaway that suggested  I sit somewhere, the floor. I attempted to rejoin the Mob.  Last time in Lancaster I found a lovely place open mid afternoon that sold me a wonderful Curry.  Today the Canal where I am sure it is/was located felt too long a distance to meander to.             I made at least five phone-calls, no joy so I went back to The Sun and nobody was there.

Simon said they were now at The Market.  Having familiarised myself with the entire Lancaster scene (except Canal) I joined The Mob in the open air market where there was a Curry Stall. And another.  This would explain why the Curry I sought was not available.

We marched in to the Penny Bank, and back out.  The promise of fourteen Ales on Tap at the White Cross was enough to tempt us forward.  On the Canal Bank this was a fine location. It is a pity that here we are in late May and it is so cold one cannot sit outside.

The White Cross was a converted Warehouse, it was fine.  The Taps were many, the Choice was superficial.  The Northumberland Brewery’s Gold Rush at 5.2% looked as if it had potential.  Robin and Hector took the plunge. Sadly its colour was fine, the taste was minimal.  We moved on to Thoroughgood at a lesser 5.1%.  These of course are regarded as session Ales for our company.  Thoroughgood by name only, a local Ale from the Burscough Brewery, Lancashire.

By now the conversation was taking strange directions.  I have never been so insulted in all my life – and by Yvonne.  ‘Nice to be Nice’ as Craig says.  Simon announced we were to be joined by Kirsty, his Dear Lady.  Jonathan had to be phoned just to ensure he knew what he was missing.  Others Must Suffer.

We had all tried the Gold Rush and the Thoroughgood.  Jonathan (in absentia) had suggested a Pub at the Station that sold Hawkshead Ales, I phoned, they didn’t.  Well, not today.

We walked along the Canal Bank and reached the Waterwitch, behold Kirsty!  The day really began here, we like Kirsty too.

She and Yvonne caught up, some Trip that Hector was not on – they do exist, such is my tolerance level.   The Company was now complete and we found the Ale of the day: Hound of the Basketballs! The Ale was Hoppy, Craig was Happy.  This wonderful 5% job from Elgoods (Wisbech, Cambridgeshire) was not only Gold and Hoppy, it tasted that way!  We finished the Cask.  We may have had help from other Punters.  Cross Bay (Morecambe, Lancashire) at 4.2% was the Tweeny whilst we all finished what was in front of us.  Although in the same style it was tame after the very good Hound of the Basketballs.  Who makes these names up?

The score from Hampden Park kept arriving during the afternoon.  It was unremarkable to begin with, then it became funny.  How many Hibbees have crawled out of the Woodwork in the last few weeks?  Hopefully they will now crawl back in…

The afternoon had gone, it was time to bid Farewell to the couple from Morecambe and get back to Glasgow.  We could get to The Laurieston for a Nightcap and the second half of the Champions League Final.  On entering The Laurieston there were two surprises, or was it three?  Mr Boyd  and Mr Holden resplendent in their Vanquished Fitba’ Tops were taking it on the chin.

The other surprise was the score from Munchen, it was still 0 v 0, but then it wasn’t.  The Laurieston has two Taps and always stocks Fyne Ales (Cairndow, Argyll and Bute).  Last night it was the excellent Daavar, tonight the more common but punching above its weight Jarl at 3.8%.  In our favoured style, even Craig comes down from his mountaintop to drink this wonderful Ale many points below his preferred abv.  I had to buy Mr Holden a Bier, that was the promise to commiserate.

The penalties were scored and Chelsea had beaten FC Bayern on their home patch.  Hector used to be a big fan of FC Bayern until Schumacher took out Michael Mols.  I was glad to see the team in blue win.  Blue is the colour…

It was a Saturday night, Marg appeared, the end of The Weekend was nigh.

The Pubs visited today:

The Three Mariners  –  Bridge Street, Lancaster, Lancaster, LA1 1EE

The White Cross  –  Quarry Road, Lancaster, LA1 4XQ

The Sun Inn  –  63 Church Street, Lancaster, LA1 1ET

Waterwitch  –  Tow Path, Aldcliffe Road, Lancaster, LA1 1SU

The Laurieston  –  58 Bridge St, Glasgow, G5 9HU

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An Afternoon in St. Albans

Bier on a Sunday?  Hector must be on holiday.

Well so it felt.  Two fine nights in Bedford, a very good Curry for lunch with Howard and Tracey at Choudhury and a fly over by a Lancaster Bomber.  The day had started well.

[Stan.TB] was waiting for us at Bedford Station, yet again he had shunned the Curry Ritual, we really don’t know who this man is anymore. The birthplace of [Stan.TB] is Kettering, so we took the train to St. Albans. Red-Brick Church?  Hideous!  There’s two of them.  Fortunately the centre of the town was more appealing.  The Medieval Core with the Tower and The Boot Pub had charm.  I shall stay here with Marg at some point in the future and hopefully have the opperchancity of visiting the Roman Ruins.  At ten minutes from Luton Airport this is a fine location.

The Farmers Boy had a Festival on today.  There was also a football match on the TV which kept cutting out every-time Manchester City did something positive.  This was an Oakham Pub (Peterborough, Cambridgshire), we like Oakham Ales.

First up was JHB Extra at 4.2%  This fine Blond Ale has long since been a favourite.  Here it was but stronger.  It should have been enough but Howard had gone for the Scarlet Macaw which at a whopping (for this weekend) 4.4% was passed around the table for all to sample.  We had to stay. This was wonderful, all the Hops and Citrus one could want. We had to come to terms with the Musik blaring throughout the premises.  Initially it was Deep Purple followed by Yes, no problem.  Then it wasn’t and a Band had started playing outside.  Tracey got it sorted, the Band won.

Hector was puzzled by the differing styles and impressed by the range of instruments being played.  Then I went out to look and found it was a Band of many Brothers.

The Punters here had a very strange Dress Sense.  Was it because of the Fest?  Or is this how the Folk dress on a Sunday?

Man City scored.  All was well with the world and so we moved on to The Boot at the top of the hill and adjacent to the historic tower. This is another classic English Pub, we cannot find Pubs with such chararcter north of The Border, here one trips over them.

More Oakham, this time the Asylum at 4.5%.  This Gold, Hoppy Ale was definitely from the Oakham stable. The Ale was served by Gravity from a Rack on the Bar, alas at Room Temperature it had lost its edge. The afternoon was indeed going well, then QPR scored, and then they scored again.  With seconds to go it seemed all over, but it wasn’t.  We left when Man City’s triumph had been confirmed.  By the time we reached the Blacksmiths Arms their separate screens for separate supporters was no longer required, but the Punters must have enjoyed a good afternoon.

With much Ale to choose from this venue impressed.  The available food also came in massive portions.  We must note this for the future.  It had to be another Oakham Ale, this time the Inferno at a more modest 4.0%.  This was another classic Blond, Hoppy Ale, how many do they make?  Just how wonderful is this Brewery?  I think we are overdue another Cambridge Trip which incorporates a Trip up to Peterborough.  Maybe Marg might become desperate to visit the Duxford Air Museum…one day…

In keeping with Hector’s arrival on Friday evening, Howard and Tracey were on a later flight back to Glasgow.  [Stan.TB] announced he was going back to Bedford for a Curry.  It was time to leave Hertfordshire, a ten minute walk to the Station, a ten minute Train journey and less on the Bus – behold Luton Airport.

The Pubs Visited Today:

Farmers Boy  –  134 London Road,  Town Centre, Saint Albans, AL1 1PQ

The Boot  –  4 Market Place, St Albans, AL3 5DG

Blacksmiths Arms  –  56 St Peters Street  Saint Albans, Hertfordshire, AL1 3HG

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The Bedford : Bamberg Spring Fest Day 2 + more on Bedford…

 At £19.00 a night for a massive room containing a king sized double bed, the Travelodge provided Hector with an excellent night’s sleep.  Lord Clive had suggested an 11.00 rendezvous, at 10.55 there was a phonecall postponing this madness. [Stan.TB] lived up to his current Moniker and dragged Hector downstairs at 11.10.  The so-called Shortcut into town was a twenty minute walk but it took Hector straight to Tavistock St, the heartland of Bedford Curry.  What was a man to do?

The Banker’s Draft is where I caught up with [Stan.TB], Lord Clive and Lady Maggie.  Howard and Tracey, who apparently were on this trip had found their own Wetherspoons.  Why does a pint of Orange and Soda cost more than an Ale?  Clive and Maggie were too late for Breakfast so ordered the All-day Brunch. They were able to swop the Chips for Hash Browns and so ended up with the Breakfast minus Black Pudding.  It wouldn’t have been Stornoway anyway.

There was a phonecall, the others were communicating.  ‘The Bier Fest again? But we did that yesterday.’  I am sure there was a happy facial expression to accompany the acceptance of our resolve to return.  Was this not why we were in Bedford?

On arrival at the Corn Exchange the Don Bosco Musikanten was already in full swing.  We sat in a side room.  German Pils is something Hector drinks on the rarest of occasions.  The Pyraser version is one I do not shun, how could Pyraser make a bad Bier.  Keesmann Pils?  It was still to early to challenge the full might of the Schlenkerla Eiche.

The Keesmann Pils wasn’t as perfumed as many of this ilk, quite enjoyable but Keesmann do make much better Bier than this.  The Spezial was up next, it still tasted lifeless, who knows what they had done to it.  As the afternoon passed away the Schlenkerla Eiche was once again called for.  Howard had reached the same decision at  the same point.  Lady Maggie was drinking half pints.  Tracey had moved on to Fruhli.  [Stan.TB] as usual had something different.  Clive had the Fässla Pils and considered it a lesser Bier to the Keesmann.  Ganz normal.

The Schlenkerla vom Fass ran out, nothing for it but to move on to the Rauch proper.  All Bottled Bier was the same price so when Clive was offered the choice of Marzen or Urbock … Urbock at this time of year?  The label said this Bier was bound for Australia, poor Ozzies,  Clive realised there was now a reason to visit Australia, there must be at least one decent Bier Outlet.

By 19.00 there was a consensus, we should leave, we did.

The Cricketers Arms was a ten minute walk.  On entering Hector spotted Brains, a Welsh Ale.  ‘Oh they have that Welsh stuff.’ somebody announced.   There was a hush, Doris behind the bar looked at the Commentator, this was a Welsh Bar, and yes it was the Hector who had not spotted Dragons, Flags, Memorabilia, S4C on the TV.  I made my excuses and left.

Actually I did not, I explained Robin’s disgust at Welsh Ale and hence my comments.  Doris was proud to offer us an Ale at 2.8% for only £3.00.  When I asked what the price of a sensible Bier was Doris realised that I was not giving up.  She joined in the banter. By the time we left she had spent some considerable time with us and even posed for a special photo which has to be dedicated to Robin.  Next year we shall go to the Corn Exchange and send Robin here.  He can watch the rugby.  Rugby?

The Cricketers had nothing above 3.8% it appeared.  Midsummer Ale (Concrete Cow, Milton Keynes, Buckinghamshire) was a pleasant change to the onslaught on the tastebuds at the Corn Exchange.

The Devonshire Arms was at least another ten minute walk, ironically in the direction where Hector was convinced the Travelodge was located.  Passing the Cricket Ground, Eagle IPA at lowly 3.6%  from the local Wells Brewery was advertised.  It was a sign, so this is what most of us had. This Amber Ale was decidedly thin but was not bland, it was OK.
The approach to the pub was eerie.  Walking down a purely residential street there was not a sound, not even a curtain moved.  Where was everyone?

The answer was simple, they were all in the Devonshire Arms.  It is a fact that England is blessed with hundreds of superb pubs, if only they all sold Ale at a decent strength.  Bedford appears to specialise in the 3.8%, is this why they have to have a Bamberg Bier Fest?

A taxi took us for a below average Curry.  The taxi driver was wrong, the Curry Houses of Bedford are not all much of a muchness.

[Stan.TB] had not come for the Curry so we we made our rendezvous, the others went home and we went to the Wellington.  There was a dozen Ales to choose from, a Chap told me that I should have the Cocker-Less Four at 4.5% (Wisbech, Cambridgeshire) if I wanted something with Hops and Citrus.  How did he know?  I do not recall saying anything, for once.

Doris behind the Bar with her multicoloured hairdo was great value. She could not believe we were down from Glasgow for the Bierfest.  She had lost a fair number of her customers to it.  The Helpful Chap joined us and we exchanged Bier information.  I now have a list of recommended pubs for my trip to Chester in October.  We gave him precise details on how to get to Eschenbrau in Berlin.  Time will tell who did who the bigger favour.

Hector was last out.  It was written.  A great Pub and good company.
The walk back up the Shortcut Path was Hell.  Just how steep was the hill?

The Bier Festival and Pubs Visited today:

The Bedford Corn Exchange  –  Saint Paul’s Square,  Bedford, MK40 1SL

The Cricketers Arms  –  35 Goldington Road  Bedford, MK40 3LH

The Devonshire Arms  – 32 Dudley St,  Bedford, MK40 3TB

The Wellington Arms  – 40-42 Wellington Street, Bedford, Bedfordshire, MK40 2JX

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The Bedford : Bamberg Spring Fest – Day 1

When Lord Clive of Crawley  informed the Glasgow Brethren that there is now an annual Bedford : Bamberg Bier Festival we took note.  When he assured us that the price of the Bedford Travelodge  and flights to/from Glasgow to Luton were within acceptable parameters we were hooked.

Howard and Tracey managed to get an afternoon flight down south, so by the time Hector was underway the Bier List was known.  Meanwhile [Stan.TB] was in St Alban’s on other business whilst Clive and Maggie negotiated the perils of crossing That London when all the train signals were out.

Four of us arrived at Bedford Train Station within minutes of each other; three of us grabbed a taxi and went up the hill to check-in.  [Stan.TB] went to rendezvous with H&T.  I never did find out if he did as by the time we arrived at The Corn Exchange, H&T were on their way out after a four hour stint.  Amateurs.

Twelve Biers vom Fass were on offer, only six of these were actually from Bamberg and two of these were the dreaded Pils.  The remainder of the Draught Bier was from München, nothing outstanding here on offer.  Fässla’s Zwergla (6%) was available on Draught – usually this is in bottles at The Source, this had to kick the night off.  It was OK, not outstanding.  This Bier can be demanding, the palate had not woken up.

Across the road from Fässla lies Spezial, perhaps the lesser of Bamberg’s famous Rauchbier sources but an excellent Bier in its own right.  Sadly the Bier was flat despite being taken from the Barrel under pressure.  Perhaps they should have used gravity dispensers.  Hector was not doing too well.   It was Bamberg’s most distinctive Brewery which came to the rescue: Schlenkelra’s Eiche was first experienced by The Chaps at this year’s Manchester Winter Festival.  Hector has tasted a solitary Bottle at The Alison Arms (Glasgow).  At 8% verging on the ridiculous.  Urbock this Doppelbock is not, it is an Amber colour but still packs the Schlenkerla smoky flavours – it was superb.  It became the Bier of choice for the remainder of the evening.  Thought of tomorrow and this time next year were already being mooted.

Meanwhile we marvelled at the performing Band from Bamberg – Don Bosco Musikanten – we hoped to meet Don Bosco’s Sister…

Then there was the issue of Lord Clive and his Beard.  This had been grown in the latter part of his trip to India with Lady Maggie – very strange. Even stranger than Spock’s Beard.

By the time the hall stated to clear a bit we found ourselves at the front.  ‘Sierra Madre?’  I    asked a Doris in the front row of the Band.  Her opposite Doris was subsequently asked for Rosamunde.  She was engaging.  There was no joy with the musical requests – no music – but when the band completed their set, Doris #2 came down to chat.

Meanwhile [Stan.TB]’s polo-shirt had attracted attention.  This was from a Brewery just outside Bamberg where one of the Band was from.  The final stretch was spent chatting in a combination of Deutsch and English.  This is why we were here.

There was no Curry-Heute!

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A Late Afternoon in Leamington Spa

Today is not about Bier though there is one to report – just one.

Today is about Pendragon and IQ/Menel.

Leaving Appleby in good time to make an afternoon of it in Leamington Spa we became stuck in traffic on the M6 for exactly one hour outside Manchester.

We then had to find the Ibis in South Coventry off a road that was never signposted.  That the hotel was on one side of the River Sherbourne and we were in the same street on the other – but could not cross – became all the more frustrating.

Marg was hungry, we had a Big Breakfast but no Lunch.  Hector anticipated an early evening Curry so took the opportunity to sample an Ale at The Lounge.  Everard’s Sunbeam at 4.2% was decidedly bland.  A Sparkling Water would have had more impact.

It is only on Holiday, and we both felt as if we were, that Marg and Hector go Shopping.  So we did.   Leamington Spa is unique in England.  The buildings are White and so is the Population.  It is noticeable that the Ethnic Minorities are not represented.  I must look into this further, sometime.

Dumping the captures in the car which was parked at the Station we came across The Exchange.  Two Taps, both off, we left with dignity.  Across the road was Kelsey’s, only bottled Ale and so no record was made.   We saw twenty minutes of Chelsea beating Liverpool in the F.A. Cup Final before heading into The Assembly.

Here the point of the weekend becomes clear.

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An Evening in Appleby

Hector has been passing through Appleby with increasing regularity over the last few years.  The Railway may connect Carlisle to Settle, but for Hector it goes on to Bradford.  On Craig’s 50th Birthday Bash, some of the Chaps alighted here for two hours so as to visit the Midland Hotel.  It was time for Hector to take advantage of a lengthy drive south and make this a Friday night stopover.  This was a new venue for Marg too.

The Bongate House proved to be an excellent choice of B&B, although Mein Host’s recommended Curry House turned out to be a major disappointment.  He did know his Ale and so had warned me that the Midland Hotel had now changed hands.  Other venues would therefore be sampled too.

The Royal Oak was only minutes away from the Bongate.  More of a dining facility in the evening we were crammed into the relatively small bar with a crowd of Bikers – as in Cyclists.  Three Taps only – two of them Black Sheep.  Hector spotted the Hawkshead (Staveley, Cumbria) Bitter at 3.7%.  On pouring the pint, it immediately went off.  Somehow my pint was then deemed fit to drink.  A Friday night, no Ale since last Saturday… this was bland, too thin, and nothing like as impressive as the new Hawkshead Pale which should really kick this into touch.  Nothing over 4%, time to go.

Walking the loop around the Castle, we took in the sights of Appleby.  The Bridge over the river is a planning disaster.  The Castle is hardly visible, from anywhere.  What is going on?

The Golden Ball was next door to the Curry House we should have gone to.  Banks’s Sunbeam (Wolverhampton, Staffordshire) was a refreshing change at 4.2%.  This had oodles of flavour compared to the predecessor.  A Golden, Hoppy Ale, things were looking up.

Alas things took a turn for the worse when we went for the Curry.  Thereafter we climbed the hill to the Midlands Hotel opposite the Station.  Could a May evening be any colder? Not knowing how it had been before refurbishment one can only conclude that the choice of Ale was better.  Two Ale Taps and a Cider Tap does not a party make.  The Eden Gold at 4.2% (Penrith, Cumbria) should have made a better impression, unfortunately this was as bland as the Curry.  So Marg and Hector rolled back down to the best place in town, the Golden Ball.

The Golden ball is currently the local CAMRA POTY, and why not.  Dave behind the bar became more welcoming when I flashed my CAMRA membership to claim the 10% discount.  There was Live Music by now, a Birthday.  The Sunbeam had gone off, well of course it would.

Old Hooky at 4.6% (Hook Norton, Oxfordshire) came to the rescue.  An Amber Ale may not be my first choice but at last I had something to savour.  On the sweet side of the ideal, this turned out to be the companion Ale for the final part of the evening.

So, Appleby has been visited, perhaps Staveley across the M6 may be the next local attraction.

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Zurück Nach Traben-Trarbach

Saarbrücken is in Saarland, Traben-Trabach is in Rheinland-Pfalz, one Landeskarte permits two to travel across these regions, a great saving, thank you, DB.

It is ten years exactly since Marg and Hector first arrived in Traben-Trarbach.  We stayed at the Altstadt Café, we have stayed here ever since.  This is very much a homecoming.  We wished Frank, Mein Host, a happy birthday (same age as Hector – last week).  Frank gave us Room 5 for a change, moments later we were out in the sunshine walking along the banks of the Mosel.

This town, or paired towns, is a stunning location and only fifteen minutes from Hahn Airport.  In September Hector returns with the Chaps for the Wolf Wine fest but not via Hahn, no suitable flights.  Today we hear that Mr O’Leary may pull flights from Edinburgh to Hahn.  He has never been to Traben-Trarbach, he would not do this to Hector.

Apfelstrudel at the Brücken-Schenke is a Hector ritual, Marg has not been here for a couple of years, we think.  The View from the Bridge is total relaxation, the food and even the Bier here is sound.  Trarbach has a single Shopping Street, enough for Marg to go Shopping (again). Crossing over to Traben Hector led Marg to the Türmchen where Franziskaner Weizen (Spaten, München, Bayern) has been the attraction over the years.  Mein Host was alone, smoking, ah yes the drawback of this locus. The smoking ban does not apply to the Bars of this settlement.

I asked for Franziskaner, a Weizen was poured into an Erdinger (Erding, Bayern) glass, oh no…  At least he now has Früh Kölsch (Köln, NRW) on sale for the next visit.  Marg went down to the river bank to read her book whilst I tried to enjoy this most inferior of Wheat Biers.

We went for a stroll down the Left Bank beyond the limits of previous walks.  Two more hotels were discovered.  There is a lot of accommodation but much of it is pricy.

Café Balles is where we had our first Traben experience ten years ago, we had to return.

The Last Supper

Dinner at the Golden Traube is a must; the Mosel Menu is great value, an evening in the company of Richard and Mariliese Allmacher always a pleasure.  Alas, no more.  Richard phoned a few weeks ago to tell me he had sold out.  It was time to retire.  There was no guarantee the place would be open this evening but a sign on the door promised the restaurant would be open, the hotel remains closed.

The Dining Rooms looked bare; the personal items that have adorned the downstairs have gone.  The Menu had been stripped down too but at least was still affordable.  Marg ordered Schnitzel, Hector the Schweinesteak.  The traditional Bread and Fat was given as an entrée, I hope this survives.  A Bottle of Weissburgunder felt like an appropriate accompaniment.

Halfway through our meal Richard made an appearance, he was not in his traditional white shirt.  He disappeared, returned to talk to the couple opposite and then sat with us for about half an hour.  He told me the full story as to why he has sold the business.  Two companies are now responsible for the running of the business and intend upgrading the rooms before the hotel re-opens. We reminisced about the wonderful evenings we have had over the last ten years and all the groups that have been over to T-T with Hector.  I showed him my page on Bier-Traveller dedicated to the  Golden Traube.  The photograph here may well be the last we ever have taken together at the Golden Traube.  These were emotional moments.

Bier Time

Across form the Traube is Hami’s Bar.  Again a smoker’s paradise but a place with great atmosphere.  Gaffel Kölsch (Köln, NRW) is the Bier of choice, Hector’s third favourite Kölsch.  There was a warm welcome from Hami himself.  Marg had a Baileys but was more excited by the presence of a Bull Terrier.  She played with the dog, I chatted with Niels our fist taxi driver from ten years ago.

It was time to visit Frank.  As ever the Altstadt Café has the larger room devoted to the non-smokers as is required by the local laws.  Why the ashtrays are out remains a puzzle.  It would be better for Frank’s business if he could restore the Bar to the former location in the large room and make the inner room the non-smoking one.  More Baileys for Marg, Hector had the first Reissdorf Kölsch (Köln, NRW) of the evening, his favoutite Kölsch.

We were entertained firstly by one of the locals then by Frank himself who can now call up any music one can think off, usually with video too. Frank likes Prog; he knows the German bands which Hector grew up listening to: Grobschnitt, Eloy and then somehow he found the Cosmic Jokers, Klaus Schulze, and from the UK: – Demon and Nightwing.  The time flew by, one or two Biers more were consumed, this is what a night in Traben-Trarbach is all about.

Restaurant, Cafes and bars visited today:

Altstadt-Cafe  –  Mittelstraße 12,  56841 Traben-Trarbach

Brücken-Schenke  –  Brückenstraße 33,  56841 Traben-Trarbach

Türmchen  –  Bahnstr. 49, 56841 Traben-Trarbach

Cafe Balles  –  An der Mosel 20,  56841 Traben-Trarbach

Zur Goldenen Traube  –  Am Markt 8, 56841, Traben-Trarbach

Hami’s Pils Stübchen   – Weiherstrasse, 56841, Traben-Trarbach

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One Day in Saarbrücken

The rain was chucking it down, still as we exited the back end of Saarbrücken Hbf to check in to the B&B Hotel.  This is decent accommodation at a good price and the chain has been experienced before at Flughafen Hahn.

The walk down the hill from the correct side of the Hauptbahnhof reminded Hector of the walk from Traunstein Hbf, that day it was snowing, today just rain.. Did I mention it was raining?

Lunch/Breakfat was required, so was refuge.  The Café Schubert is Marg’s sort of place, Cakes, Coffee and other delights.  I spotted Spargel, it is the White asparagus season, a must.  Marg ordered Quiche and the Doris said there were no Vegetables. We tried the meat version, the same repeated.  Marg ordered Soup but then spotted someone being served with Quiche.  Doris was led to the counter and the Quiche was on display.  ‘Nur gemuse’ was apparently what she was trying to say… idiot, her or me?  A Vegetable Quiche was ordered.

The Asparagus and Ham was perfection, Real Men don’t eat Quiche.

How could we resist the Ice-Cream?

Continuing along Bahnhofstrasse we were comforted by the colonnades that protected us from the elements, why do more cities not design their shopping streets in this manner? Having found the Rathaus and the Star of India we headed towards the Saar itself and the imposing Palace on the opposite bank.  This revealed yet another Rathaus the original, the former being technically in St Johann.

Shop, shop, shop

The Kaufhof is always an attraction for Marg and Hector, we indulged ourselves.  Then we realised that the huge stone building we had passed near the Station was the largest inner city shopping mall Hector has ever encountered the Europagalerie, impressive. It was dry inside.  More self-indulgence.

The Bier

Having found Zum Stiefel earlier in the day it was no problem heading straight back there after the Curry.  Taking a seat at the only table without cutlery, we conveyed the fact that we were here for the bier.  Bert promptly invited us to leave and showed us Der Stiefel across the back courtyard.  The former was the Ausschank of the Bruch Brewery, the latter was the same Brewery’s Micro.  This meant I was now limited to experiencing the Bier of one outlet only.  What a stupid set up.

The Stiefel Brau Hell at 4.5%  was nothing remarkable.  Served in a 0.4l glass one is reminded that one is not in Bayern.  The unfiltered nature of the Hell makes one wonder if the Brewers in German Hausbrauerei know how to clear a Bier.

The Osterbrau at 5.2% was their Seasonal Bier.  An Amber Bier, again unfiltered, this certainly had more of a kick and was more flavoursome.  The Malt was not too overpowering, a decent balance with the Hops.

This was a decent venue; food was available here as one would expect. Pity I did not go for lunch at the partner outlet through the wall, but did they have fresh Spargel?

Restaurant and Brewery visited today:

Café Schubert  –  Sulzbacher Strasse 2, 66111, Saarbrücken

Star of India  –  Johanistrasse ,66111, Saarbrücken

Der Stiefel  –  Am Stiefel 2, 66111, Saarbrücken

 

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