The Bradford CAMRA Beer Festival 2012

It is possible to leave Glasgow at the end of the working day and still reach Bradford in time for the end of the middle day of this festival.  Ricky had everything in place when Hector entered the Victoria Hall, Saltaire at 20.50.

A glass of Ale was thrust in my hand, half full I may add.   The contents were indecipherable and not outstanding.  On entering the main hall what are the chances that in surveying all before me, I purchased a pint of the said Ale?  It turned out to be Kirkstall’s (Leeds, Yorkshire) Dissolution IPA at 5%.  A Yorkshire Ale at 5%, an IPA, it should have ticked the boxes, Ricky was along the right lines; however this Amber Ale was not to my taste.  It was bitter but not as dry as my favourite Hops would have created.

By now I had found ?Stan! who had come down earlier in the week intent on working at the Festival.  Working with Dr Stan in the Foreign Bar at Paisley in the late 1990s is when I first really became more than an acquaintance of this Quiet Man.  A stalwart of GBF and Bieres sans Frontieres, here he was selling wine!  Is this not the final proof that Dr Stan was kidnapped by Aliens?

Having sampled the best Ales on offer for the last day or so, ?Stan! told me to have the Quirky Kiwi (Offbeat, Crewe, Cheshire) at 4.6%.  With New Zealand Hops this was certainly in the land of Ales we like.  An extra 0.5% on the abv and this would have been perfect.

I took his advice again for my next sample: the Diamond IPA from Prospect (Wigan, Lancashire).  I was assured that this 6% Ale was along the lines of Thornbridge’s Jaipur, as it used to be.  The aftertaste may have been dry but it was far too sweet on the palate for me.

And then I spotted a familiar face, and then another one…

Olaf Schellenberg, the man who legally brings our German Bier supply to the UK, and from whom we purchase our domestic consumption, was working at the Foreign Bar.  If Olaf is at the Foreign Bar then the Bier is guaranteed to be the very best.  It was straight into the Schlenkerla Urbock (Heller, Bamberg, Bayern).  Served through a cooling system, so not quite gravity poured, it was still immense, the smokiest Bier on the planet, by far…

Having caught up with Olaf, we have not chatted over a Bier for some years, and why is that?  I then went along the bar to reacquaint myself with Mr Garrett.  Ian was on Dr Stan’s 60th Birthday Bash in Bamberg et environs a few years back.  I have not seen him since the sad departure of Mr Tony Taylor whom I also met on that trip for the first time.

I was permitted a sample of Caulfield (Koln-Ehrenfeld, NRW) at 10.5%  This is the first Imperials Stout to be brewed in Deutschland.  They must be joking.

The final Bier of the evening had to be Andechs Weisse vom Fass (Andechs, Bayern).  Normally I would finish on the smoky Bier as little can follow but this is a Bier of the utmost pedigree, the full Banana and Vanilla knock-out flavours.  A wonderful way to the end the evening before our 23.30 booking at the Sheesh Mahal, Mr Holden had other ideas.

So Haigys it is then

My first pint was sent back, warm, flat, undrinkable.  After the wonders that had preceded it is was not a surprise.  Pipe Dream  at 4.3% (George Wright, , St Helens, Lancashire) was offered by the Barman as a replacement.  This was still a tad warm but at least the dry taste started to reveal itself after some sips.  Not too bad at all.

The Hector then had to make a phone call to the Sheesh Mahal, we would be delayed by some minutes, or so.  Haigys tends to stay open to meet the demands of the customers.  What sort of pub is this?

The Beer Festival and pub Visited today:

Victoria Hall, Victoria Road, Saltaire, West Yorkshire, BD18 3JS

Haigys Bar, 31 Lumb Lane, Bradford, West Yorkshire BD8 7QU, UK

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Athens Day 4 – A feeling of Home

This would be a day of relaxation.  We set off to find the Beer Academy in daylight and found that we had been on the right street twice already, they are no more it appeared.

There was a lengthy walk up Athinas towards Omonia passed the burned out buildings.  This also gave Marg the opportunity to visit every pet in every pet shop.  Playing with the rabbits, almost left to wander off from the premises, provided her with hours of amusement.

Ten minutes later we continued our journey beyond Omonia to discover the Bierhof.  Thankfully these premises are exactly where Google Maps say they are, but of course they were closed!

Time for lunch

We found a couple of authentic looking restaurants across from Bierhof and the prices were reasonable.  By now we were convinced that Athens is a much cheaper venue than Thira/Santorini where the prices hurt last summer.  Marg had a Chicken Soup which was full of Chicken now there’s a novel idea.  Hector had Sardines, a plateful, joy!

Just in case

As an hour had passed I thought we had better walk back down Stounari, Bierhof might be open, it wasn’t.  Once again serendipity came to the fore as we found where the Beer Academy is now located, it was closed too.

We made the long walk back to our neck of the woods, Plaka. A walk around the Acropolis, well that’s what couples do, revealed just how small the park surrounding this mighty Crag and Tail actually is.  The light was improving all the time, so we went for a ridiculously expensive Ice-Cream at a venue called Chocolat.  Four storeys of indulgence, how will they survive?

As the sun set we headed back towards the land of Bier.  The Beer Academy was open, the Bert told me he had two draught Biers. Warsteiner was one, no way.  The other was a strong Belgian, too early.  I asked for the Bier Menu.  Marg disappeared for a moment, Doris supplied the menu.  By the time Marg returned I had established that the number of Biers available was minimal and the prices were nonsense.  €4.40 for a bottle of Paulaner Weisse, (which they did not have) versus €6.60 for the equivalent Weihenstefan, why?  The Belgian Bier was way over-priced, the choice was bog standard.  I made my displeasure known, we left.

Bierhof was closed.  I asked at the kiosk opposite if it was in business.  ’18.00’ was the reply, it was now 17.57, there was hope.

The shutters came up, we went in.  The new Bert and Doris cleared up some of the mess left over for the last session, no ashtrays, things are looking good.

Bert’s English was not wonderful, his Bier was, and the prices were even better.  Maisel’s Weisse vom Fass (Bayreuth, Bayern) was the choice of the two draught Biers, Paulaner Weisse being the other.  The other taps were off, a pity.  The fridge was stocked with a reasonable array of Deutsche Bier: Andechs, Tergernsee and especially Hacker-Pschorr.  A Tegernsee Spezial Hell (Tegernsee, Bayern) was my companion Bier, by now Mein Host was doing his best to make us feel at home.  The place was also warming up.  More customers entered, we were no longer the Desperados.  I by now had calculated that the Bier price translated into Sterling was exactly what we pay for a 0.5l bottle of Deutsche Bier at the Allison Arms, Glasgow.

I could have stayed, I shall return, but it was time to eat, again.  Last evening at Monastiraki we found a Taverna with live music and Stifados.  Greek food at last!  We ate heartily, the musicians began and so did the inevitable smoking, we left.

Beer Time

For the final Biers it had to be Our Local.  The welcome was even warmer than last night, Marg once again chose the Timmerman’s Strawberry, the Chocolate came too.

Augustiner (München, Bayern) Edelstoff and Schlenkerla Marzen (Bamberg, Bayern) could be the only Biers to complete this Greek trip.  Deutsche Bier? Well why drink the Greek inferior Bier when this is available?

There’s more

Mein Host once again stood us a round of Ouzo, Marg does like Aniseed.

The Pubs visited today:

(Beer Academy  –  Stournari 29, Athens, 10682)

Bierhof  –  Stournari 6, Athens, 106 83

Beer Time  –  Iroon Square, Athens, 10551

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An afternoon in Aegina, without Bier, Athens Evening 3 – with

Today was forecasted to be the warmest and sunniest day of our Athens stay, it is also Valentine’s Day.  I offer the Lady a Greek Island, she accepts.  Aegina is just of the coast in the Saronic Gulf, it is the closest island to Piraeus.  We bought day tickets on the Metro and arrived at Piraeus just on 11.00 to discover we had missed a Boat.  No matter, there are regular Boats going to Aegina my research had shown, well not in winter.  A long cup of coffee passed the time until our 12.50 Hydrofoil  What I also expected to be a ten minute crossing was actually forty.  Trust this website, no other.

I will not tell too much of Marg’s desire to board the first Flying Dolphin she spotted in the harbour, ours was XV111, it had yet to arrive but did not hang around too long when it did.

We arrived on schedule in Aegina in time to have missed a heavy downpour.  The back-streets were awash, good timing, perhaps it is just as well we were not earlier.

I was in the mood for something Greek to eat, last night’s grilled Pork was not my idea of Greek Food.  We searched every open Restaurant/Café and could find nothing.  We even walked out of one due to a lack of meat and an abundance of smoke.  The Chap followed us out and tried to entice us back in with offers of Chicken and Pork, I want Beef!  I asked for Stifado in our next conversation: ‘What is

Stifado?’ I was asked.  This was getting me down, we passed a Doris bringing a healthy looking plate of Spaghetti Bolognese to a customer, this won.  Marg had Carbonara, she was well well stuffed.  Some of this appears also in the partner website Curry-Heute, I will tell the world how frustrating it is to find that so many Greek food outlets are simply Grill Houses – in others words, Fast Food outlets.

Now for some Bier

Back in Athens we took the Metro up to Ambelopiki and the Craft Brewery.  Having been a couple of times before we both recognised the direction to take after surfacing from the hole-in-the-ground.  We sat at the same table as we did on our first visit, in front of the Copper Tanks, we were the only customers.  I had two Biers in mind but the young Bert insisted that I have the sample tray and so I bravely tasted each of the six/seven glasses set before me.  My mind was not changed, the Athens Lager stands out, and the Smoked Lager would follow.

Craft have been in business since the mid 1990s, it is quite an outlet.  The blurb says they are trying to replicate Bier in the authentic Bamberg style. I found the Athens Lager to be very good indeed, better than I had remembered it.  Has it improved?  The body was sound and felt the full 5%.  The blurb described it as having a slight sweetness and minimal Hops.  This is not how I would describe it at all.  I would call it dry, hopped and a bit on the rough side.  It was a well made Lager, the only disappointment was the 450ml glass.

The Smoked Lager is only slightly smoked.  It is nothing like the genuine Rauchbier brewed in Bamberg and its environs.  There is a hint of smokiness, just a hint.  If one wishes to experience smoke in Greece, just walk into any Bar/Restaurant/Cafe with a No-Smoking sign.

Other customers were by now arriving for Bier and Food, we departed and took the Metro to Omonia, the Curry-Heute was calling.

Making full use of our Metro ticket we jumped back down to Monastiraki and walked around the corner to Beer Time.  Our Host was happy to see us back.  Hector was straight into the Augustiner (Munchen, Bayern) Edelstoff.  Marg surprised me by having the Timmerman’s Strawberry for the second time.  In order to keep her amused whilst I contemplated a final Bier another plate of the Chocolate and Nut delight that had been generously supplied last evening was arranged.  And now for something new.

There was a Bock I had never heard of, a Weinachtsbock.  At 7.1% the Mittenwald (Mittenwald, Bayern) would be a fine way to end the evening, it was also a good way to wind up Howard (& the rest of The Chaps back home) who failed to take the bait.  Pleasant, but not stunning.

As with last evening, Mein Host stood us a round of Ouzo, Yamas!

After a very shaky start, Athens is becoming a fun place to visit once more.

The Microbrewery and Pub visited today:

 Craft – 205 Alexandras Ave. Athens, 6462350

Beer Time  –  Iroon Square, Athens, 10551

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Athens Day 2 – Carpe Diem

Hector was out of his pit at 07.00, two hours writing before a superb breakfast, then out for lunch. 14.00 was the intended time, however a coffee stop saw Hector presented with an illustrated menu, how could I resist? Stuffed Tomatoes – a favourite lunch. ‘They’re off!‘ Too late, what turned out to be the largest plate of Eggplant covered in Ratatouille with extra Tomato and a Cheese Topping, plus some large slices of Baked/Fried Potatoes was soon on its way. Marg ordered the largest Greek Salad ever created by Man. She does not like Cucumber, cannot eat too many Tomatoes, eats Fetta Cheese minimally and is not huge on raw Onion, apart from this she enjoys a good Greek Salad. Either side of lunch was a tour of The Plaka, Syntagma Square, the Meat and Fish Market and a few fire damaged buildings.

The main Post Office in Syntagma is boarded up, The Grand Bretagne Hotel in pride of place at the side of the Square remains untouched. We passed a few banks that had been burned out, people hate bankers, don’t they? The stone cladding on pillars, park benches, anything that could be prised off has become the weapon of choice. Shops had their windows broken indiscriminately, there are thugs in all societies, not just London. This damage was metres from the security of our hotel, just as well we stayed in last night, however the tear-gas made it impossible to be out.

Tonight there will be Bier, but where?

This morning’s tour was also to re-familiarise myself with the area around Monastiraki. There was a very good outlet down there a few years back, I failed to find it last summer, and again this morning. I have a printout with two possible venues, the Beer Academy and Beer Time.

After some ritual late afternoon photographs from our panoramic rooftop and a WLD, it was time to finally get out for Bier! It was now that the news reached Hector that Glasgow Rangers FC have applied for Administration.

The Beer Academy was not revealing itself, I need a better map. Much easier to find was Beer Time. The Bottles on display outside were a Hector Magnet.

The fridge inside looked splendid, the menu listed a Private Brewery I do not know under the title of Bavaria, the rest, well I can only conclude that the owner is a very educated man. There was a choice of Augustiner (Munchen, Bayern) including Edelstoff, Schlenkerla Marzen (Bamberg, Bayern), a choice of Andechs (Andechs, Bayern) including the Bergbock Hell and list if five Bier vom Fass one of which was Konig Ludwig (Schlossbrauerei Kaltenberg, Bayern), where to start?

Start at the end

The choice of the Draught Weizen was inspired by a table of guys who had purchased a rather stubby looking Tower. The Konig Ludwig is not the best of Weissbier by any means but was pouring well and had a definite Banana hit on the palate. Marg had a Sprite.

We moved tables across the room because the Chaps were smoking despite the signs commanding the contrary. Marg and Hector were in Greece the day the smoking ban was introduced a few years back, a damp squib of a day that was. The Greeks don’t pay taxes and they do not heed non-smoking icons. They have much to learn.

A trusty Edelstoff was next up, this was presented in the correct glass as had the Weizen. There is no need to review the Deutsche Bier I probably drink more than nay other these days. It’s dry, bitter taste is sheer perfection.

We departed after two and found a place to eat dinner back at Monastiraki. I will have more to say on this in Curry-Heute. A Mythos did cross my lips with the meal, but deserves no more mention in tonight’s group of Biers.

On the return to Beer Time I was unsure as to how long Marg could be amused so I ordered my last Bier first. Schlenkerla is a hard act to follow, the smoked bacon crisps makes it difficult for the palate to register anything else afterwards. Again the appropriate glass was the provided receptacle.

The Doris in the kitchen area spotted Marg with a Timmermann’s Strawberry Fruit Bier and presented her with some Chocolate. Marg was awake, the Andechs Bergbock Hell was on. There has been discussion of late as to which is drier, the Bergbock Hell or the Andechs Spezial Hell. I believe the Bergbock wins, these days I get an occasional, and unwelcome sweetness from the Spezial.

Beer Time is a home from home. The young Chap serving must have been intrigued by my ordering Bier without looking at the menu. When one knows the Bier it is easy to make the choice. I highly recommend this establishment to anyone in Athens, though drinking here every night will set you back a few Euros, it is not cheap. €5.60 – €5.90 for a half litre bottle is pricey.

It was a short walk back to The Plaka and finally a chance to take a decent photograph of the construction on the hill. After the protestations of yesterday and the damage witnessed today, it is easy to see why Athens most famous landmark is a ruin.

Postscript

The rioting in Syntagma Square broke out unexpectedly again late this evening when a solitary Scotsman began a demonstration against Whyte Men. ‘Something was lost in translation.’ a spokesman for the British Consulate was to explain later.

The Pub visited today:

Beer Time – Iroon Square, Athens, 10551

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Athens Day 1 – A Noisy Welcome

Athens Airport was in darkness as we touched down ten minutes ahead of schedule. Mr Stelios has provided a direct Edinburgh (of course) flight to Athens. As soon as it was announced, Hector had flights booked for myself and Marg, the February Week would be best enjoyed in the tranquil atmosphere that is the Greek Capital. Last August we arrived at Syntagma Square, minus one HTC Desire HD and a Canon Digital EOS SLR thanks to the thieving bastards on the tram. The riot police were out in force anticipating further demonstration. Thanks to my loss I remain more interested in my own Micro-Economics than Greek Macro-Economics.

On boarding the Metro this evening, a text from Yvonne asked if we were OK. My Sky News App on my replacement phone updated me on the current affairs: a full blown riot was under-way at Syntagma, our Metro was headed there. Four stops out the Metro busy,  suddenly we were at our destination, Monastiraki. The authorities had closed down some stations for the day, now to negotiate the throng on the streets. I knew our hotel the Plaka  was near Panaghia Kapnikaria, the old church on Ermou. Walking up Ermou we passed people of all ages, some wearing masks. That we were walking against the flow dragging our bags making the walk that bit more challenging. Approaching the church a young Doris stopped Marg and told her not to go any further, there was trouble ahead. She suggested we turn right and stop heading towards Syntagma. Serendipity or what? Our hotel was fifty metres to the right. Our eyes were nipping as we entered the lobby.

From our balcony we could see the floods of people streaming back from Syntagma, the number of explosions was more in keeping with news footage from Home. Flashes and bangs were frequent, we were not going out, we hadn’t eaten since Edinburgh Airport.

To the roof garden

The view of the Acropolis from the roof garden was one major attraction of this hotel, apart from its central location. Others were there, trying to take photographs. Clouds of tear-gas wafted around us, we all had to bail, eyes nipping, throats burning. All except Marg who was determined to get one last photo.

Are you remembering this is a Bier Blog?

The rooftop bar was closed, I doubt if it is open in winter. The Mezzanine Bar was our new safe and enclosed haven. This is a goldfish bowl overlooking the junction outside. Masked chaps were displaying their bravado outside. One of our assembled guests produced a camera. Something was thrown at our windows, the glass cracked one metre behind Marg, we withdrew to a table out of sight of the window. We were now prisoners in our own hotel.  A Soda Water and a small bottle of Mythos, both for Hector and a Cappuccino for Marg were produced along with our only sustenance for the evening, salted Nuts. Marg then went to negotiate a Brandy and Coke. When she ordered a second I thought I had better keep her company, and so a large Metaxa was the Bier of Choice to end the evening.

Breakfast of Champions

The time difference is such that when I awoke at 07.00 there was nothing for it but to get up. The Greek Parliament have passed the new austerity measures. 100,00 demonstrators were out here last night, Syntagma Square has been damaged. Marg and Hector will soon set off to see what we are permitted to see. Meanwhile there is food on offer: the Bacon is superb but with Green Olives even better.

The Hotel where we kept refuge:

The Plaka Hotel  –  7 Kapnikareas, Athens, 105 56

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The Staggs, again, so soon.

A day and a night in Musselburgh

We take our Bier seriously. The title of this Blog should be sufficient a give-away to the fact that we will travel within reason, and within acceptable economic parameters, to consume the best we can find. The Tempest (Scottish Borders) Long White Cloud is currently (IOHP) the finest Ale brewed in our fair country. In the last week Robin and Howard have done their research, Craig is part of the story somewhere too. We have learned two things: Tempest only brew this Ale sporadically, the Staggs in Musselburgh recently had two Casks delivered.

The resolve to return after two short weeks was not a difficult one to make, especially when it was revealed that there were in fact three Casks of Long White Cloud in the cellar. The Friends of Hector should surely command one on a Saturday afternoon? Howard had contacted Nigel (why there is no award for most obliging Host?), all was in order.

Marg is renowned for her general disinterest in alcoholic beverages. Sweetie drinks are her favourite when she does imbibe, though do check out her consumption of Hofbrau at Source! That we are due to fly out of Edinburgh tomorrow lunchtime planted a seed in Hector’s mind – would a day in Musselburgh appeal to the Dear Lady? The holiday extension concept was approved, a night at the local Travelodge was secured, a Race Meeting made rooms difficult to find.

Located at the very eastern end of the Edinburgh Bypass, the Travelodge should have been very easy to find. Should have been. Jedburgh, Leith (wrong direction, surely?), and many Border towns flashed up before us on the road signs. There was no mention of Musselburgh. We actually came off the Bypass to re-check our navigation, had the mysterious eastenders built another road to accommodate the minority population? Only on rejoining the Bypass two junctions from the end did the name Musselburgh finally appear on a road sign. Perhaps I should really end this Blog now , not spill the beans, and this maintain the mystery of this fine attraction?

An early check-in had been arranged, we were out of the room by 13.00, the others should be there already.

Walking past Monktonhall the history of Scottish Industry came flooding back, coal mining. How much coal remains under our feet as we walked down the Valley off the Esk, or Eskdale? I was soon on familiar territory passing Yaadgar, a name which has been mentioned in the partner Blog, but Curry was for later.

Nigel greeted us as we walked in to The Staggs. He verified the order and did not bat an eyelid when a Fresh Orange and Lemonade was the accompaniment. Robin, Craig, Yvonne, Mags, Howard, Dr Rick, Alan, Mr Boyd and John S were first pint as we squeezed in beside them.

And we’re off

The Long White Cloud was once again described as Excellent by Craig, so it must be. ‘The Budgie is back.’ is how Yvonne described her Beau. Robin was sporting a black eye but had no recollection as to how it had been acquired, worrying. Mr Boyd was only in his usual raconteur mode intermittently, indeed in the second half of the afternoon he stood up and announced his early departure. These seventy year olds, no stamina. John and I spoke Curry for a good while. Howard, Alan and Mags were too isolated initially. Marg went for a walk as is her custom, down to the harbour, to see the wildlife, she was amused. She returned and was straight into the Bacardi and Coke. I was determined to enjoy the Long White Cloud, John moved on to Kipling (Bakewell, Derbyshire), Avalanche (Fyne Ales, Cairndow, Argyll and Bute) and finally Jarl also out of Fyne Ales. I do not recall hearing Craig mention Kipling but he could not have resisted. Robin switched to Jarl, a sensible man. There is no other pub in the land serving this range of Ale. That Mein Host loves his light, hoppy Ale too is a distinct advantage in our favour. Our young barman was permitted a time-out and joined us for one. His name and details will no doubt become more apparent in Future Days.

And now for the best bit

The time came for all and sundry to depart. It was approaching 20.00. Cheerio cheerio, cheerio. Marg and Hector were left, sitting with the locals, how it should be. It was definitely time to eat, the meal at the Halimah is dutifully recorded, but this is not the end of this saga.

After a surprisingly fine Curry-Heute, we returned and sat in the inner room. The Avalanche was the Ale of choice now. It is worrying that an Ale I have enjoyed so much in the last year felt less. There was no more, a taxi from the adjacent rank took us up the hill. Tomorrow is another day.

The pub visited today:

The Staggs Bar  –  81 North High Street, Musselburgh, EH21 6JE

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The monthly trip to The Staggs in Musselburgh

It is written, we shall go to The Staggs (aka The Volunteer Arms) once a month.  The reason is simple; Nigel the Landlord will put on the best Light, Hoppy Ale that he can get his hands on.  Not only that, he ensures that the Ale will be available to our party as we arrive in the early afternoon.  There will always be a choice, when we finish one cask there are two more waiting to be enjoyed.  This is service of the highest order.  That this ritual is in Musselburgh, a town east of the capital and we are coming through from Glasgow is all the more significant.

Our party of nine assembled at Queen St for the train at 11.00.  Due to the bizarre way in which tickets operate, it is cheaper for us to buy local tickets to Glasgow, a group return to Edinburgh and then a third ticket to Musselburgh.   This would not happen with Deutsche Bahn.

We entered the Staggs just after 12.30, Thornbridge (Bakewell, Derbyshire) Kipling at a manageable 5.2% was waiting for us.  The pump clip was turned to prevent a run on this superb Dry, Hoppy Ale before we arrived.  Most of us consumed this for most of the afternoon.  Mein Host appeared to take his bow.  Craig was quick to advise him of the wonderful ales we consumed in Ulverston at New Year.  The Hawkshead NZPA is a new name to Nigel who is always happy to listen to recommendations.  He knows that his customers will enjoy this too and will no doubt track it down soon.  Nigel also made us aware that the charming young lady behind the bar was his daughter.

Once the Kipling was finished Hector went up to the bar and ordered a Fyne Ales (Cairndow, Argyll and Bute) Avalanche.  At a mere 4.5% this punches above its weight and is refreshing follow up to the Kipling.  ‘Why are you not having the Dancing Duck?’  Hector had not even spotted it was on, also I had never heard of it.

Dancing Duck (Derby, Derbyshire) is a micro-brewery which is relatively new to the scene.  Their Abduction at 5.5% is exactly what we seek.  I did find it to be a bit flat after the Avalanche but it soon hit the spot.   This was the final Ale of the afternoon, perhaps just as well.

Who ate all the Pies?

Hector had considered an Edinburgh lunchtime Curry en route to Musselburgh but had the usual Soup et al on the train.  This would keep me going until my return to the Punjabi Charing Cross.  Euan was the first to disappear out for food returning with a Pie.  Howard and Tracey followed suit.  Craig and Yvonne may have followed on, but as I barely recognise them these days it was hard to tell..  A Fish Supper appeared, wtf?  Are we here to eat or drink wonderful Ales?  Each to their own.

Now we are ten

Tracey announced that Andy was on his way through form the West to join us.  Complete with his travelling companion he soon settled in.

Meet the locals

With the number of our visits accumulating, the locals are aware that when we are in town the Ale will be especially outstanding.  Hector has made a point of talking to the group who assemble on the left side of the bar, we talk the same language, we like the same Ale. They still cannot believe that there is nowhere in Glasgow which can provide the service enjoyed at The Staggs, but then we do not know of any other Public House in Scotland which offers this.  This venue is an outstanding candidate for the current national POTY issued by CAMRA.

Time to go

We are told that Nigel appreciates our leaving as much as he does our coming. We instinctively know when the time has come to make our departure; today I reckon we stayed an hour longer than before.  We stand up, say farewell and leave en masse.

Meanwhile back in the West

Hector met some minor celebrities, the emphasis being on minors, at Queen St Low Level.  With Howard, Tracey and Jonathan the Bon Accord Ale House was our destination, it was too early to call it a night.  The Board at the Bon accord was poor, very poor. Augustiner Edelstoff (München, Bayern) at 5.6% is always available, just as well.  This was a suitable night cap before Hector decanted next door to the Punjabi Charing Cross for yet another excellent Curry.

 A couple of Euan’s Photos:

The pubs visited today

The Staggs Bar  –  81 North High Street, Musselburgh, EH21 6JE

The Bon Accord Ale House  –  153 North St,  Glasgow, G3 7DA

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Manchester and Sheffield, overcoming the Mathäser Syndrome

Some went to Sheffield early, ?Stan! and Hector had lunch at Al Faisal in Manchester’s Northern Quarter.  ?Stan! was particularly well informed about the location of the Curry Cafes in this area, this was perhaps a prelude to the first Bier of the day.  He must have known that across the road from 58 Thomas St lay 57 Thomas, a micro-pub aka The Marble Bar.

The lights were on, somebody was in.  I tried the door, it was locked.  Within seconds it was open, Mein Host welcomed us in to his modest establishment. Four casks were on the bar, two were ready.  Now Marble’s (Manchester) Lagonda at 5% is not necessarily how we would choose to start what would be a long day.  This, we were told, was Trial Version #7.  Realising the variation in Hops which has made some Ales unrecognisable in recent times, Marble have set about a series of Trials.  To Hector they have it right.  This was far more Hoppy than the version I had in Boot on Hogmanay.

The layout of the pub was minimalist, a single long table surrounded by chairs.  Once the place fills up there is no choice but to join those already seated.  These could lead to rousing nights.  That the venue only sells Bier takes me back to U Fleku in Praha when it was in the post Berlin Wall days.  I could easily have stayed on here, but my pre-purchased rail ticket was timed for 12.42.  We left, to our sorrow.

A £6 single to Sheffield

Approaching Sheffield Yvonne texted to say they were heading to the Harlequin, a new pub for us all.  By they I assumed the remaining six, as it turned out the Loving Couple and Howard and Tracy had gone for lunch of the more solid variety.  Hector traversed the city centre of Sheffield with an ease that impressed ?Stan!, it wasn’t Rocket Science, I had consulted Google Maps, established where Nursery St was and headed there in a straight line.  As we turned into Nursery St we spotted the Harlequin at the far end of the street, we also spotted Craig and Yvonne making a sharp exit.  Unperturbed, we entered and found a splendid array of Ale and two European Draught Biers: Paulaner Weiss (München, Deutschland) and the dark Budvar (Ceske Budovice, Czech Republic).  The pub itself was spacious with a lower level for games.  The serious drinkers appeared to be sitting to the left of the doorway. How one could simply walk in and back out again is inexplicable, there was something for everyone.

The Brew Company (Sheffield) Blonde at 4% was my choice, ?Stan! desired the Gold by the same brewery but was given something else instead.   The Blonde tasted very slightly soapy, a bit flat, in fact it had little going for it, but somehow it worked.

Various texts confirmed that The Four were heading to The Kelham Island Tavern, what was always the other pub on Kelham Island.  That it was the first port of call was not due to Geography but fear of what lay beyond.  The Fat Cat used to be the biggest attraction in England; a return visit would involve trepidation..  The Two had entered both and moved on without stopping, they had no idea where they were headed now.  Let me remind the reader that in our Manchester Weekend, the only glimpse I had of Craig and Yvonne was their disappearance over the horizon outside the Harlequin.  Maybe they were trying to avoid me? So it goes.

The Kelham Island Tavern was full.  ?Stan! negotiated a pint of White Rose (Sheffield) Naughty Blonde at 4.2% .  The others were through the back in the extension.  We sat where Steve famously performed late one night some years back when he borrowed a local’s guitar and was not permitted to return it until closing.  The Ale was fine, not outstanding; it was time to take it easy.

Tracey said something to me, I had to shout back: ‘I cannot hear you because you are not shouting!’  There was a table of student types at the window, the women chose to screech at each other, thanks to this the volume of the entire room was raised significantly.  Can people not simply talk?

The Debate Began

Should we set foot in the Fat Cat?  Should we go back on the resolve not to drink the Pale Rider?  In the end we succumbed and went around the corner.  Mein Host and his Dear Lady were in situ, I greeted the latter: ‘I never thought these words would leave my lips – ‘Shall I risk a pint of The Pale Rider.’  This is Kelham Island’s Championship winning Ale at 5.2%.  This was our signature Ale from the mid 1990s when it arrived in Glasgow until about two years ago when it became unrecognisable.

Five of Six had the Pale Rider, (at Source!) ?Stan! had the Easy Rider, he also had lunch. The food at The Fat Cat has always been outstanding, even the Vegetarian meals have been enjoyed by Hector in the days when monthly visits to Sheffield were the norm.  The range of Biers on offer still makes this pub a major attraction, it is sad what the adjacent Brewery have done to their ale.  I have written, a reply was never forthcoming.

We sat in what was formerly the non-smoking room; this is far more comfortable than the seated part of the bar when one is in company.  Robin agreed that blindfolded we would still consider Pale Rider to be a good Ale, it has body, there is some flavour. I used to liken it to Straffehendrik when it was brewed in Brugge (Belgium).  It is simply a Pale Shadow of its former self, served in Glasgow it could be anything, we never touch it.

The Mathäser Syndrome

For years Sheffield meant The Fat Cat, The Devonshire Cat and The Kelham Island Tavern.  Then there were the trips to Dronfield to visit the home of Thornbridge’s Jaipur.  There are numerous pubs in Sheffield we have not visited, there was never any need.  The demise of Pale Rider and Jaipur has changed everything. The new Sheffield Tap, aka the Station bar kept the city on the radar.

Entering the Shakespeare just across the wasteland from the Kelham Island Tavern, one wonders why we were so stupid never to have been here before.  This is a magnificent venue.  Again the choice of Ale and foreign Biers is commendable, the rooms to the rear were Spartan, the furthest became our instant home.  With genuine German foldaway tables and benches we were straight in.  The walls are adorned with numerous Bier -clip Deckles.  Back in the smoking days this place must have been horrific.

Hector’s choice of Ale was simple, at last The Haworth Steam Brewery Ale was set before me at a time I could consume it.  Their Strong Ale at 5.2% is not my usual style but despite the palate having to adapt to Malt and Sweetness this went down very well indeed.  I shall have this again, maybe even at Source!

 Having been annoyed earlier by the noise of the people in the Kelham Island Tavern, it is worth commenting that in the Shakespeare Bar there is music played.  The speakers are modest, the volume within acceptable parameters.  One can tune it in or our depending on the extent of the recognition.  They played diverse sounds, Craig would have been happy here.

Choo Choo

The Sheffield Tram took us back to the station where Craig and Yvonne awaited.  Remember Craig and Yvonne?  Their train (and Robin’s) was leaving in fifteen minutes.  We had time to establish that Magic Rock (Huddersfield) Rapture at 4.5% was the Ale to be had.  Despite being somewhat Brown and less than 5%, this was their recommendation?  What has happened, had they wasted their day? Bye, bye, see you in Musselburgh…

The Sheffield Station Tap was as busy as ever.  A converted waiting room it is an ideal venue but is only accessible from the street, not the platforms.  Five of Eight returned to Manchester where Three of Five retired.

 Meanwhile, back in Manchester, Lagonda at Source!

?Stan! and Hector walked at the pace only they can to the Northern Quarter where our day had begun.  With further testimony to the fact that nostalgia ain’t what it used to be, we returned to the Bar Fringe, the scene of Hector’s first ever pint in Manchester.

Offbeat (Crewe) Kooky Blond at 4.1% had a hard act to follow the surprise joy of the Steam Brewery’s Strong Ale.  Kooky no, bland yes.  We sat at the same table as last year at the rear of the room.  The throng mulled around any space people could stand.  The noise of the music was unbearable.  People were trying to chat, this was impossible.  We left pdq. Now where?  57 Thomas St was still in our minds but for the final venue of the day I was persuaded that the walk along Shudehill to the Source of Marble Ale would be a brief one.  Ten minutes later we were at the Marble Arch.  Quality Ale was guaranteed.

The #7 Lagonda was available here to.  With body and hops this was outstanding.  A perfect night cap.

The pub itself is a classic venue which I would again suggest has become much more bearable since the smoking ban.  The entire place is on a slope towards the bar and beyond.  A quite room is located to the rear.  Again I mention the music, ?Stan! was appalled that there was any, this is not how he remembers it.

We took a table in the main room, a very pleasant venue.  Adjacent was a door which looked as though it had not been opened for a century.  A model of one of England’s fictional pubs was presented to a young lady; Hector was straight in with the camera.  An excellent venue with great Ale, a perfect end to the day, or was it?

Bidding farewell I jumped in a taxi to The Curry Mile, well, one is in Manchester…

The Pubs and Brewery Taps visited today:

57 Thomas St, Marble Bar  –  57 Thomas St, Manchester, M4 1NA

Harelquin  –  108 Nursery Street  Sheffield,  S3 8GG

The Kelham Island Tavern  –  62 Russell Street  Sheffield, S3 8RW

The Fat Cat  –  23 Alma Street,  Sheffield, S3 8SA

Shakespeare  –  146-148 Gibraltar Street  Sheffield,  S3 8UB

The Sheffield Tap  –  Sheffield Station,  Sheaf St, Sheffield,  S1 2BP

The Bar Fringe  –  8 Swan St,  Manchester, M4 5JN

The Marble Arch  –  73 Rochdale Road , Manchester ,M4 4HY

Posted in Sheffield, Manchester | Comments Off on Manchester and Sheffield, overcoming the Mathäser Syndrome

New Oxford, What Manchester Ale Fest?

The long summer, xmas and easter holidays are always appreciated.  So are the welcomed single weeks in February and October, oh and the September long weekend, in fact Hector does not do too badly for holidays.  There is one weekend in the year when Hector is disadvantaged, this one.

The Friends of Hector headed off to Manchester yesterday, some Winter Ale Fest, they say.  I did not arrive in Manchester until 20.30 this evening after a full day’s work, professional to the end.  A cooperative taxi driver took me from Piccadilly to Upper Brooke St where I checked in to the Travelodge in record time.   Three pounds had still accrued on the meter in what felt like seconds out. He had to consult his map before heading off to Salford.  Could he not work his Satnav?

The New Oxford in Salford was where the Chaps were now ensconced. Craig and Yvonne had already succumbed before I arrived.  I expected to meet up with ?Stan! and Jonathan, I was surprised to see Howard and Tracey still going strong, Robin was there too.

It took three attempts to find out which of the twenty ales on draught was recommended for my first Bier since last Saturday.  There was a group at the adjacent table who only spoke at one volume, eleven.

Allgates (Wigan) New Zealand Cascade at 4.3% was the starter.  It had slight Citrus and Hops, not as in your face as previous New Zealand Hops ales of the last few weeks.  I was back at the bar in minutes.  Round 2. Salopian’s (Shrewsbury) Blackwater Kangaroo Court at 4% was a step down in strength but a major step up in flavour.  This had much more Hops and again went down very quickly.  It was time for something serious.  Offbeat’s (Crewe) Out of Step at 5.8% was exactly what the Hector ordered. This had Hops and Citrus in abundance, the type of Ale our company craves.  There was more.

The highlight of the night came in a phone call from Marg.  A couple of weeks ago her friends were on holiday in what we thought was Bamberg (from their text) but turned out to be St Lucia.  Are they close?   They claimed to have met the owner of Pyraser (Pyras, Deutschland).  I still cannot work out why Bamberg was mentioned.   My reply was to tell them that Pyraser was brewed in Pyras near Hilpoltstein and that the owner of the brewery was in fact a Lady.  This was to test the mettle of the person claiming to be the owner.  I pointed out that I had met the Braufrau at a Garden Party one Sunday morning in 2009 just before she took part in the local pageant as part of Das Burgfest, she was the main character. It turns out she remembered me.  I was now a very proud and happy old Hector.

This was my first visit to the New Oxford, I can see why the Chaps had taken up residence for the night.  The choice of Ale was impressive; they had other outstanding Biers on draught too.   With a room to the front and rear of the bar there was plenty of space.  It was just a pity that the crowd next to us had to shout, perhaps they are used to places with loud music and had not compensated.

Only ?Stan! and I were left, being out of phase a small glass of La Chouffe (Achouffe, Belgium) at 8% would polish of the night before I headed for the day’s main objective: the first visit of Hector to the Manchester Curry Mile.  ?Stan! walked south-west, I took a taxi.

The solitary pub visited today:

The New Oxford  –  11 Bexley Square, Chapel Street, Salford, Manchester, M3 6DB

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An afternoon in Haworth, one night in Bradford

With the greatest charm offensive since, well since Hector persuaded The Chaps and Chapattis to spend New Year in Ulverston, I managed to muster ten of twelve for an extra night away from home.  One cannot drive towards the M6, see the signs for Bradford and not drive over the motorway to the A65.   Curry may be the attraction, however Ricky may feel that he too is a Bradford attraction.

Howard and Tracey had their own plans.  Driving straight to Bradford they checked in, took the train back to Huddersfield, visited The Grove, returned for a Bradford Curry then retired.  They are not in this saga any more.

With Craig and Yvonne once more in the rear seats, Hector and Marg took the scenic route towards Haworth, a detour via Pendle meant we approached Haworth from the south past the reservoirs.

Our passengers were escorted to the station and they purchased round trip tickets to Keighley.  Somebody likes steam engines.  Jonathan dropped ?Stan!, Mags and Robin and they bought single tickets to Keighley.  The Boltmaker’s Arms and Taylor’s Landlord more or less at Source was the attraction.

Hector and Marg walked back up towards the famous cobbled Main Street and began our ritual.  This usually involves Marg visiting a certain outfitters and Hector’s bank balance diminishing.  We decanted to Gascoigne’s where once again I failed to sample their Ale at Source.  My day will come.

Re-united with our charges we sped off to Bradford where the Hilton Hotel was desperate for our business.  It was the deal that convinced the ten to stay over.

Haigy’s was the first port of call, the Four Pioneers arrived by foot  minutes before it opened, how quaint English pub hours can be. The next chap in asked if we knew ?Stan!, this was Mick, another local CAMRA stalwart.   ?Stan! was meeting up with Ricky and a bus was the means of transport the very short distance to Manningham.  Introductions were completed and with Mick and Ricky we were ten again.

The Elland Brewery’s Beyond the Pale was the nearest thing to our perfect choice.  At 4.2% this was a bit low after the joy of the last few days.  The Munich Malt was lost on our palates which had become saturated by New Zealand Hops.

Some of us were watching the clock, Hector’s real Bradford purpose was looming.  The phone rang, Lord Clive was home.  He asked if anyone called Dave and Allison were in the pub.  They were not hard to spot.  Having ribbed them over their Leeds FC scarves that were parked in full view of Ricky, it could only be them.  It is good that the people of Yorkshire come out to meet their Scottish visitors.

Six of ten went for a magnificent Curry at the newly re-opened Sheesh Mahal.  With perefect timing we united the group next door at The Beehive Inn.  Here Saltaire’s Cascade Pale Ale was our chosen Ale, sadly it did not impress as much as it did a month before when we were last down in Bradford.  At 4.8% this was closer to the mark however.

We were joined by Geoff, the wonderful Chap Ricky, Marg and Hector had spent a day with last September.  I think he did stop to breathe at one point in the evening.  There was a coal fire, Marg had to be restrained.

We moved on to the main attraction of the pub world in Bradford, the Fighting Cock.  Hector’s magnanimous gesture of not arriving first and being served first cost him a taste of what may have been the best Ale on offer in Bradford today – Ossett’s Winter IPA at 5%.  Instead Durham’s White Amarillo at 4.8% kept the majority of us amused for the next hour.

A bottle of  Belgian Bier magically manifested itself before Yvonne, this changed everything.  Hector studied the fridge – Delirium Tremens (bottled) was calling.  This Bier called Robin, Mags, Jonathan and eventually Yvonne too.  Now we had a party.

For some the night was coming to an end, six of us went for a Curry, for Ricky and Hector this was for the second time this evening, and why not?

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Pubs and Brewery Tap visited today:

Gascoigne’s (Haworth Steam Brewery)  –  98 Main Street, Haworth, BD22 8DP

Haigy’s  –  31 Lumb Lane, Manningham, Bradford, BD8 7QU

The Fighting Cock  –  21 Preston Street, Bradford, BD7 1JE

Posted in Bradford, Haworth | 2 Comments