It’s Tropical (almost) in Aberdeen

Posted on December 23, 2011 by Hector

It is written that at this time of year, Hector will drive Marg to the land of her birth, following a star to the north.  Aberdeen is usually cold, a certain bedroom where we reside is colder still, indeed the soft drinks for the festive day were found to be chilling in our place of repose. However, this year it was evident from the moment of our arrival that something was wrong with the ambient temperature – Aberdeen is warm – indeed at 14?C it is the warmest part of the UK!

Having greeted the relatives, Hector was able to escape for a rendezvous at Aberdeen’s most celebrated watering hole, the Prince of Wales.  Jonathan was already in situ and was consuming the only Ale on the board that could be quaffable: Cairngorm’s Trade Winds at a modest 4.3% (Aviemore, Inverness-shire).  The Ale was warm, the fault of the pub.  The Ale was not outstanding, the fault of the brewery.

The Prince of Wales is not the pub it was.  Hector recalls two winters ago entering the premises to find Pale Rider (Kelham Island, Sheffield) when it was still quotes as a worthy Ale.  The phone was out ready to share the discovery with the Chaps back home when Hector had to fall on his sword.  The cellar in the Prince of Wales must have been the warmest place in Aberdeen back then, with the temperature outside today it was approaching unacceptable.  In the summer time Hector simply cannot drink the Ale on these premises and tends to look for bottles.  The politics of Green King having taken over the pub has not helped either, the choice of Ale on offer is now restricted compared to years gone by.

Cauld Reekie at 6.2% from Edinburgh’s Stewarts Brewery (Loanhead, West Lothian) was the choice to complete the session.  This was certainly chewier than what had been consumed previously but was getting on the sweet side of the scale.  Surely somewhere in Aberdeen there is cool, dry, hoppy Ale on offer?

Jonathan suggested we visit The Grill Bar.  Hector has walked past this countless times; the exterior is such that one would never guess what lay behind the frosted glass.  This is again a very traditional pub with a very mixed clientele, the place was stowed.  They also sold an Ale that suited our palate: Fyne Ales’ Hurricane Jack (Achadunan, Cairndow, Argyll) at 4.4% is the first Ale brewed by these fine people that actually impressed this commentator.  Their Avalanche is the Bier of choice on many a night out.

This proved to be a perfect end to the evening, but not before a bit of winding up was undertaken.  Paul at the Bon Accord (Glasgow) prides himself in having a large range of Whisky, I sent him a photo of the gantry.  He replied quickly and accepted that The Grill may well have more than he stocks.  1 – 0 !

From the visit to the glasshouse at Duthie Park I leave you with some photos of Hector in the desert.  It is in the desert where Hector will reside for the next three days…  I return now to the room where the soft drinks are chilling…

The Pubs visited today:

The Prince of Wales  –  7 St Nicholas Lane,  Aberdeen, AB10 1HF

The Grill Bar  –  213 Union Street,  Aberdeen, AB11 6BA

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The Lone Diner in Köln

Posted on December 19, 2011 by Hector

Cologne Alone

The day began with a visit to the excellent Saturn music shop before a very bog standard Curry at the award winning Kamasutra. Jonathan was driving to Rotterdam, Steve and Juliet had to find their way back to Weeze. Hector was left with a day to himself in Köln, a day to catch up on some Blogging. There had to be Bier.

 Do you remember Sion?

Having walked through the Weihnachtsmarkt at Neumarkt I ended up back at the Dom. Sion looked a peaceful place to sit and so I located myself at a table at the entrance vestibule. The was Curry-Heute to write about which definitely takes priority over the Bier-Traveller Blog. I was hoping that Wi-fi would be widely available, however it was only at the Airport where I found a decent Kostenlos Link and managed to do some posting.

A couple of test tubes at Sion was a pleasant change. I believe Steve and Juliet had dropped in yesterday. Not as famous as the Big Three Kölsch outlets, Sion is certainly worth the visit.

Rather than abuse the hospitality, as in can one really spend half an afternoon over two glasses of Kolsch, I relocated to Früh am Dom. Here I found a very silly table for one in the Restaurant room and completed my writing for the day. Once again on a two Kolsch limit, this was a splendid and relaxing way to spend a Monday afternoon on one’s lonesome.

For the final time with Mr Stelios for the foreseeable, I took the on-time flight back to Edinburgh where the ever dutiful Marg was waiting to whisk the Hector home.

 This was end of the first day proper of the vacation, did I mention I am on holiday?

Brewery Taps visited today:

Brauhaus Sion  –  Unter Taschenmacher 5,   50667, Köln

Früh am Dom  –  Am Hof 12-18  50667, Köln

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Enough of Köln, we need a trip to Düsseldorf

Posted on December 18, 2011 by Hector

By the time Hector had made his pilgrimage to the Indien Curry Basmati House, the Chaps had signalled that they were leaving the Gluhwein stands in Heumarkt and were heading to Mühlen. Hector was well late. Actually I was ensuring that the fundamental rule of our trips applied to me also – one can join in or not, whatever is going on. By the time I arrived Steve, Juliet and Maggie had gone shopping. Fancy going shopping at an xmas market, what a waste of VDT. This left Jonathan and Clive as the welcoming committee.

The efficient Kobi, whose name just happened to be Bert, served up the Kölsch as required. The others joined us after a couple of test tubes, no doubt after realising that hand luggage severely restricts what can be purchased.

Juliet asked Bert for a Gluhwein, which was not listed on the menu. His reply (in Deutsch) was to point to the door and tell us that two hundred metres away there was a stall selling Gluhwein. Juliet then asked for a Coffee, which was on the menu. The reply was pretty much the same. Juliet was given her Coffee.

It was time for Bert to end his shift, we had to settle the bill so far.

Clive and Maggie’s share was €12.80. Clive always has to be last to pay. Twelve eighty – Bert said to Clive. Or as we say in England, Zwolf Achtsig –  was Clive’s reply. Or as we say in Germany, just make it fifteen! – retorted Bert. Clive accepted defeat.

Steve and Juliet went away to do other things and are not in this saga anymore. We headed towards the original Gaffel, maybe Goulash Soup could be on the cards. They were busy. Maggie and Hector led the way to the Keller at Früh am Dom, the ashtrays were out – in mid afternoon. I do not understand the policy here, the smoking area is in a dedicated room upstairs, those who cannot exercise self control are sufficiently catered for. We crossed over to Gaffel am Dom walking passed the magnificent piece of architecture en route. Gaffel was mostly blocked off for a private party, and so back to the main part of Früh am Dom. This keeps us fit.

Herr Willems, my favourite Kobi was on duty. Hector always feels that he must be Dutch. By the time we were all reunited the Kölsch was already ordered. Our Kobi decided that Jonathan and Clive really needed two of the desperately small glasses in which this Bier is served. Our Kobi evened things up and brought Hector a second test tube.

Maggie attempted to purchase the Goulash Soup as sold in the Keller where the Soup comes in a hollowed out half Roll. Despite the fact that the kitchen is in the Keller where the smoke is, if one does not sit down there and endure further smoke, then one cannot be served one’s Goulash Soup in this manner. A bowl is was then.

Clive and Maggie headed to the Airport, Jonathan and Hector boarded the busiest train in Germany and went to Düsseldorf. Time to phone Marg.

Düsseldorf Hauptbahnhof has had quite a makeover in the past year, and for the better.

The U Bahn in Düsseldorf was correctly negotiated and we were in Füchschen in no time at all. Being a Sunday evening it was quiet, there was no problem finding a table. It felt like a year since my last visit, in fact it was two weeks short of a year. The glorious Altbier was procured in the amazingly large 0.25l glass. Hector has come to prefer Alt to Kölsch, sshhh. The Alt is even drier and despite the darker appearance the Malt is not overwhelming.

We surveyed the menu and for some reason  both ordered the Bayerische Wurst Salat. What a mistake. A pile cold shredded Sausage accompanied the Salad from Hell and a portion of Bratkartoffellen. How could any man eat all this? When Jonathan had cleared his plate, Hector stopped eating. More Alt was needed to wash this down.

It was now time for the main event, Uerige. We had worked out we could do two Altbier Houses properly and get the optimum train back, any later and the journey time would double.

We passed the modest stalls which comprise the Düsseldorf Weinachtsmarkt, no competition with Köln then.

Uerige was quiet. The main room where Jonathan and Hector had spent a glorious evening this time last year was occupied by no more than a dozen folk. The Bier came, the King of Altbier (IMHO).

Chaps at the adjacent table were evidently Scousers. There was an exchange of banter, it was somebody’s birthday, I forget whose.

No Frikadelle was brought round which was a disappointment, there is always room for an Uerige Frikadelle. It was pleasing to see that the original Doris and Bert were sitting beside each other in the Pit.

We were back in Köln by 00.15. We had to walk through Gaffel am Dom just in case there were any familiar faces. The tables were on the chairs, the staff were congregated at the far end of the large room – most of them were smoking. Now which part of Smoking Ban have the people of NRW not come to terms with?

Brewery Taps visited today:

Mühlen  –  Heumarkt 6, 50667, Köln, Deutschland

Im Füchschen  –  Ratinger Str. 28-30, 40213 Düsseldorf,

Uerige Düsseldorf   –   Berger Strasse 1, D 40123, Düsseldorf

 

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A Day at the Köln Weinachtsmarkt

Posted on December 17, 2011 by Hector

 The Curry-Heute at Restaurant Bombay was a perfect start to the day.  Arriving bang on the rendezvous time of 13.00 at the Alter Markt, Steve and Juliet were already enjoying their first  Glühwein of the day at the stall opposite the original Gaffel Haus.  Clive appeared but could only hear us.  Maggie had told him to ‘stand there’, he did.  Food was their priority, had  they not heard of Curry?

Jonathan joined us eventually; there is another Glühwein stall opposite another Gaffel Haus…

Steve and Juliet disappeared; they had to secure their hotel room, the rest decanted to the latter mentioned stall, more Glühwein.  Then there was the other stall at the Ice Rink, fortunately the only place with ice in Köln today.  Guess what, there was even more Glühwein!  Maggie was becoming concerned about the quantity – ‘Pity there is no Glühbier.’  As if.

Plus ca Change

It was still daylight, this felt strange.  The temperature was more than bearable. Nothing seemed quite right.  Could it have been the Glühwein?  Jonathan had previously discovered in the new edition of Insomnia (the Köln Guide) the existence of the Sünner Keller and paid a quick visit last evening.  The short trip across the Rhein would give us a much needed break.

The Tram came before we could buy a group ticket. The Tram was wedged, no chance of buying a ticket.  By the time we passed Messe/Deutz the carriage had emptied and Hector made his way to the machine to make the journey legal.  The buttons were pressed and the individual Euro coins inserted, …. one …. at …. a …. time….   By the time we reached the correct Kalk U Bahn stop I still had the Cents to put in.  The doors opened, the rest alighted.  The ticket began to print.  The doors began to close.  With the athleticism born out of desperation, Hector was through the door and on to the platform ticket in hand!

The Sünner Keller was a few metres away, the Brauhaus was visible, this would be our first Sünner Kölsch at Source (Walfisch being the usual outlet).  We will definitely return here in warmer months.  We have lost an afternoon place to sit and relax outdoors since the demise of the Dom Keller a few years back.  We went downstairs to the Keller (very confusing) which was set up for a private function.

Last evening Jonathan had decided to not have a Bier in the stowed Pit which was the only available place due to another private function.  Doris did not want to give us a Bier at a table until I pointed out that we were here for an hour and would be away long before the 18.00 deadline.

We were given a seat at table for ten. The Knoblauch Family, the famous Köln family who are ridiculously healthy but generally odorous, would be the recipient of this table on our departure.

At Sünner am Walfsch the Kölsch is always sold Direkt, no pumps.  At the Brewery Tap the draught Bier is pumped, why?  On a positive note, there was information on the Deckel about the existence of Sünner Hefeweizen.  We will ask next time.

It was agreed that this is a new venue for the future, but not if it is always going to be booked out. The Hector may have to make a booking.

The third Kölsch was to be the last, we paid the Doris, and she was speaking English to us now, happy that we would not be blocking the table.   A new Doris had just started her shift and came over and offered us more Bier.  Now, what if…

Back to the Glühwein

The wonders of modern day communication devices are that we were able to set a new rendezvous with Steve and Juliet at the Mediaeval Markt.  This has been our favourite, and traditionally is the only market one pays an entrance fee to.  A return trip on the U Bahn to Heumarkt and the short walk up the Rhein took us towards the Chocolate Factory where the Mediaeval Markt is sited.  The place is increasing in popularity we thought as we approached; the tents had now spilled off the island.  We met Steve and Juliet who looked despondent – ‘there is no Mediaeval Markt’.

There was a crowd. 

(First sentence, top of page two, ‘The Sirens of Titan’, Kurt Vonnegut)

Something Happened  (His pal)

With all these people here something was happening.  We passed the outer tented stalls and crossed over to the island.  The place has gone upmarket, some very pukkah stalls. In the short distance ahead was a stall where we usually congregate.  Glühwein was on offer, all was well.

Alarm!

Glühbier was on sale.  Hot Liefmans Kriek was being served, we had to have it.  We did.  One was enough.  Whilst consuming this we watched as people bought the German equivalent of a Flaming Mo.  We had to try this: a hot Rum Punch, a Sugar Lump supported by a cradle above, an Elixir poured over the Sugar and then set on fire.  Juliet set herself on fire; well her cup went up in flames.  This Punch was aptly named, we drank one, we left whilst able.  We shall be back.

The Reissdorf Haus in  Köln Sud

Apart from Juliet who was experiencing her first visit to Köln this has become a firm favourite destination.  We have abandoned our former home in Klein Giechenmarkt in favour of this newer totally non-smoking establishment.  Jonathan found a bus, Hector navigated with geometric precision and a map.  Our table awaited, Jonathan was there first.

Some were hungry, Hector was not sure.  A late afternoon Frikadelle had filled a gap.  The rest ordered food, I still considered the possibility of crossing the street to the Indien Basmati Curry House, two Curry houses in one day is not unknown.  I restrained myself and decided that 0.2l glasses of Kölsch would suffice.

We had a lovely Doris who knows how the system works and whose tray always had a Kölsch for Jonathan and I.  As the night progressed we looked at the marks on our Deckel.  Doris brought over the Bier mat from the adjacent table, they had more marks.  ‘But there’s ten of them.’ I protested, ‘There’s only two of you.’ was her reply.

A Wed Wose

I cannot buy Marg flowers, she would be suspicious, and she wasn’t here.  Clive cannot buy Maggie flowers, she has not just given birth.  I bought Maggie a Wed Wose.  She and Juliet appeared to be more amused by the large Pepper Pot.

And there’s more

Trams were taken back towards the Hauptbahnhof, Jonathon bade farewell after a couple of stops at Barbarossa Platz and made the remaining five legal travellers.  The ladies were put to bed, the real men took table at Gaffel am Dom.  I watched four chaps being refused service, far too much for one day apparently.  Some have to learn how to pace themselves.

Wilma, Wilma!

The night porter at Hotel Colonia was nowhere to be seen.  I rang the bell, nothing.  I banged the door, nothing.  I did both repeatedly and simultaneously for ten minutes.  Eventually.

 

Brewery Taps visited today:

Sunner Keller  –  Kalker Strasse 260-262, 51103,   Köln –Kalk

Zum Alten Brauhaus (Reissdorf)  –  Severinstraße 51, 50678,  Köln

Gaffel am Dom  –  Bahnhofsvorplatz 1, 50667,  Köln

Posted in Köln | 1 Comment

Three Nights in Köln, The Arrival

Posted on December 16, 2011 by Hector

Hector is on vacation

The Köln Weinachtsmarkt has become a ritual way to end the longest of terms.  A dash to Edinburgh Airport was required to catch the 17.10 flight to Köln-Bonn Flughafen.  For reasons best know to Mr Stelios, this is the last time such a journey will be made on this route for the foreseeable.  Five times this year Hector has made good use of this facility, so it is logical to dangle the prize in front of me then take it away.

The flight was on time, yeah, but then one encounters the bottleneck at the station under the Airport.  Only two working ticket machines is not good enough, especially when most people do not know how they work.  Even those who do have to press twenty on screen buttons to purchase the simplest of tickets.

For once Hector did not alight at the Hauptbahnhof but cleverly stayed on to Hansaring and then dropped down to Christophstrasse U Bahn station.  I was at Hotel Colonia over an hour after touchdown, this does not sound efficient. No longer does this hotel have Wi-Fi in the rooms, will this be my last visit?

By this time Jonathan had has his fill of Gluhwein and was waiting for Hector in the Restaurant at Früh am Dom.

Time for a Kölsch

Well this is what I had in mind, the Kobi had another.  He refused to bring Bier until he had enough definite orders to fill his tray.  This is not how it is done.  There were gaps between Biers, in a Kölsch House?, unheard of!  Still, in the brief moments when the test tubes were full, life was very pleasant indeed.

Olive and Maggie touched down and checked in to their exclusive hotel beside the Dom.  We were soon united, however Steve and Juliet were still en route for their night in Weeze.  Where does the time go?  Mobile phones are wonderful, in the past one could have spent half an hour wandering around trying to find one’s friends.  Some people we know would still spend an hour and a half trying to find the exit – true!  In the past we would have rendezvoused in the Keller, but now we know the dreaded weed is permitted late on, we like to breath air.  So it was time to decant to Gaffel am Dom where a party was in full swing.  The place was stowed.  Rather than look for a table we took a standing table at the doorway.  Service here was excellent.  There was time to admire the old Bier adverts which adorned the walls.  There has not been a huge change made to the venue since it was re-badged from the Alt Köln Gilden Haus.  If only they would sell the Bier Direkt, there must be someone in Köln selling Gaffel straight from the barrel?

The Brewery Taps visited this evening:

Fruh am Dom   –  Am Hof 12-18,  50667, Köln

Gaffel am Dom  –  Bahnhofsvorplatz 1,  50667, Köln

 

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The Bradford Weekend – Day 2

Posted on November 26, 2011 by Hector

Robin was my designated Travel Partner for the day, £9.50 to roam West Yorkshire, great value.  This is by all buses and trains, even better.  After Hector’s  superb Curry-Heute at The International we headed east to join the others at The Hop in Leeds.  This is the Ossett Brewery Tap and the pouring of Excelsior is enough to put this on the map.  I first encountered this area underneath Leeds Station back in 1996 when I first started coming down to Yorkshire regularly, this was another life.  Since the canal bank was modernised and the appearance of the new build, the atmosphere has sadly gone.  There used to be wonderful shops under the arches selling all sorts of ethnic goods.  Alas, no more.  The Bratwurst stall has gone too.

The rest of The Chaps had located themselves on the Mezzanine, we thought it better to grab a pint before climbing the stairs.

Twenty Minutes Later

To say the service was slow, no let’s not prevaricate, the service was diabolical!  A new Doris hadn’t a clue, she even had to ask the solitary Bert where the Guinness tap was…  Bert was caught up with one guys food order… ‘ would you like mash with that?’ tap, tap, tap, ‘and gravy?’ tap, tap, tap, ‘and the other pie?’ tap, tap, tap… What a useless set up.  A pencil and paper would have been far more efficient than this useless till.  How far was the kitchen, two metres away?

Jonathan and Craig needed another Bier, they were gone for ages.

Now Hector had suggested we leave the Hop just after 14.00 in order to catch a train to Todmorden.  I suspected that as in our last visit, The Chaps may be dragged out with the proverbial heels dragging along the ground.  The decision to leave was an easy one.

This was not before Howard investigated the strange goings on at the adjacent tables.  There were a lot of dolls around; I do not refer to Yvonne or Tracey.  The people were doing things with their dolls, all far too weird for us, Todmorden here we come.

The Shack on Square Wheels

Some of the rolling stock in Yorkshire is unbearable.  The Huddersfield to Sheffield line via Penistone has the proverbial shack on wheels.  Guess what turned up to take us to Todmorden?  Time to re-plan.  Dewsbury was not too far; let’s get off this piece of crap as soon as possible.  We crawled through Dewsbury.  Sowerby Bridge was mentioned, but it was only minutes from Todmorden.  Jonathan and ?Stan! stayed on the train to Sowerby Bridge, six of us bailed at Brighouse.

The Sir Richard Oastler has featured in this Blog before, a truly wonderful Wetherspoon’s conversion with the usual poor Wetherspoon’s service.  Howard had words.  On my visit to the bar the locals were going mental trying to get served.  The day was frustrating in terms of service but the Bier was good.   The Bridgehouse Barnstormer 4.4% was below our usual abv, but was so enjoyable Robin and I had more.  Craig and Yvonne spotted the Jaipur, positive noises were made but some was left.  Jaipur is no longer worth drinking IMHO.   Maybe Howard and Tracey will reveal what they consumed.

The Main Event

John and Judith were due to rendezvous with us at The Grove.  We were there first, well, six of us were.  ?Stan! and Jonathan did not show up for over an hour, hence they had the cheap seats. Malcolm (Judith’s other husband?) whom I met on the day this company came together was brought too.

The Grove always has an interesting array of Ale.  The Thornbridge/Kernel Coalition Burton Ale at  7.2% was served in half pints only.  This was enough. Robin had the Dark Star Hophead which at 3.9% was going in the wrong direction for Hector.  Craig thought an early bed time was called for and embarked on a session of Buxton Axe Edge Double IPA at 6.8%.  One pint was enough for the rest of us.  In fact one pint was enough for Craig.  The new experience of Thornbridge Crux at 5.4% did not set the heather on fire.  Kipling it is not.

John made sensible choices. Judith was straight in to the (Pavel’s) Kwak, one of the finest of Belgian Biers.  What a lady.  This was followed by Westmalle, I suspect she and John would do well on one of our summer extravaganzas, who knows, in time…

Yvonne decided to replicate the great disaster of The Sparrow from the previous night.  She turned her bottle and glass over and pulled the bottle from the glass.  She had to use two hands, that does not count.

Jonathan and ?Stan! may have been on this trip.  They took the bus back to Bradford, the rest of us sped back on a comfortable train.  It was definitely time for a Curry-Heute!

 

 

 

 

 

The Pubs visited today:

The Hop  –  Neville Street  Leeds, West Yorkshire LS1 4BR

Richard Oastler  –  Bethel Street, Brighouse, West Yorkshire, HD6 1JN

The Grove  –  2 Spring Grove Street, Huddersfield, HD1 4BP

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The Bradford Weekend – Day 1

Posted on November 25, 2011 by Hector

You must come down to Bradford on the last Friday of the month to visit The Saltaire Brewery.’ so Ricky told me in the summer when I was last down. And it was arranged that The Friends of Hector booked well discounted rooms at the Holiday Inn Express via Expedia.

When Ricky was up in Glasgow recently he announced that he had now booked a trip to Poland this very weekend. Last weekend emails started to circulate when ?Stan! realised that entry to the Saltaire Friday night extravaganza was by ticket only and they had gone. Another classic ‘Holden Tours’ was underway.

?Stan!, Howard and Tracey would be in situ to get the available tickets at the door from 16.00. Robin, Craig, Yvonne and Hector were not due in Shipley until 20.40, what chance entry?

Jonathan texted en-route (we do not know which route he took down or when he arrived) to inform us that I was number 58 and that we could talk our way in. Eventually ?Stan! called to state that our entry was guaranteed and just as importantly, he would come to the station to meet us. Although we had Google Maps, Shipley Station is a complicated affair. Take the wrong direction and one could be walking for ages in the wrong direction.

It was a ten minute walk which was partly parallel to the stretch of railway line we had just traversed. A canal crossing, an industrial estate then the light of a fire. The Hog Roast beckoned for some. Hector knew that a Bradford Curry was the priority, the appetite must be kept intact.

The Cascade at 4.8% was the first choice. With American Hops this should set the benchmark for the evening. This was followed by the Galaxy at 5% which was darker and further away from our preferred style. It was at this point someone mentioned that they would close at 22.00.

There was time to fit in a third. Robin and Hector who have an uncanny knack of ordering the same Bier went back for more of the Cascade. The Citrus flavour was not overwhelming but this was certainly the better of the two.

There was time to take stock of the fact that we were in the working part of the Brewery. Sitting upstairs on a gantry we could see all below. There was a temporary bar erected at the door staffed by a very pleasant couple. A more permanent bar was opposite where we sat but had Ales we did not have time to contemplate. The main Chap was still serving at 22.00 so it was perceived that drinking up time would be liberal.

We finished our Bier in comfort and thanked the staff as we left. We have all resolved to return. There are few Fridays in the calendar when I could be here earlier that also coincide with the opening times. We shall see.

The last train from Shipley to Bradford proper was just after 23.00 , we caught this comfortably. Jonathan, Howard and Tracey took a taxi back to town. They no longer feature in today’s saga. The city centre was deserted. We were the only people on the streets. This highlights just how much the ethnicity of this city has changed.

Ricky took Marg and Hector to a city centre bar earlier this year, it was closed. ?Stan! insisted, this proves he is not Dr Stan, that we visit The Sparrow. I immediately recognised where he was taking us, he was certain the place would be open until midnight. This gave us time for a Bier but no time to check-in.

Hector found a table in the busy, spartan room. All expense has been spared on the décor. It was then I was told that there were seats downstairs. I saw a sign saying the facilities were downstairs, perhaps they need a new sign. Downstairs was empty I was soon to discover.  Robin returend from the bar with pints of Ilkley Gold 3.9%.  This simply put me in the mood.

?Stan! Decided that a bottle of Schlenkerla Marzen was to be the night cap. He fetched it, it was overpriced.

This is the part of the evening that has become legendary. Sky News just happened to have a camera truck on stand by. Their main presenter was helicoptered in to witness the next few minutes. The video clip of this has had fifteen billion hits on You Tube in the last twenty four hours. Here is what actually happened.

?Stan! brought the bottles of the very fine smoked Bier to the tables with the inverted glasses covering them. Hector casually turned the whole lot upside down and began one his Bier pouring party tricks. By carefully lifting the bottle away from the bottom of the glass the Bier will pour perfectly. It did, or rather it was. The glass was not straight sided. Somehow the bottle had become slightly wedged. Ooops, I quickly had to grab bottle and glass in each hand to release the bottle. Glass-bottle-bottle-glass. Mr Cooper would have been proud of me, that’s Tommy, not Davy. Craig was set off into one of his moments of hysteria. This is a moment that might be mentioned again, and again, and…

The Chaps at the check-in desk were determined that Hector would have his credit card swiped and pay for the pre-paid rooms again. Hector was determined that this was not going to happen. A phone-call to Expedia eventually sorted this mess. The rooms were allocated, no more money had been taken, it was now 01.30.

It was long overdue, but it was certainly time for Curry-Heute!

The Brewery and Pub visited today:

Saltaire Brewery Limited  –  The Brewery, County Works, Dockfield Road, Shipley,West Yorkshire, BD17 7AR

The Sparrow  –  32 Northgate, Bradford, BD1 3HZ

Posted in Bradford, Shipley | Comments Off on The Bradford Weekend – Day 1

The Staggs – Making Plans with Nigel

Posted on November 19, 2011 by Hector

We enjoyed ourselves so much at The Staggs aka The Volunteer Arms on our last visit we promised ourselves a return. Nigel, Mein Host, evidently appreciates all that is currently splendid about British Ale. ‘Tell me when you are next coming through and I’ll get you in whatever you want.’ He knows his customers will also lap up the finest of Ales. We had missed his Festival weekend by one week, unfortunately Hector was in München last weekend.

Howard had been in contact and the man was as good as his word. Ales from Thornbridge (Bakewell, Derbyshire), especially Kipling, have been high on our favourite list for some time. Jaipur has had its day, Thornbridge it appears, can no longer reproduce the tart, grapefruit juice bitterness of yesteryear. Those who were at the Troon Beerfest this year raved about a new release from the Tempest Brewery (Kelso, Scottish Borders). Their Long White Cloud was asked for, unfortunately it could not be guaranteed.

Yvonne had taken on the role of hector today. We were to assemble at Queen St Station at 10.40 for the 11.00 to Edinburgh. Why we were so early was never ascertained. The eight of us purchased two group tickets to Edinburgh. The saving was significant. Not as perfect as a Deutsche Landeskarte, but a start. Our railway companies have much to learn.

?Stan!, Robin and Jonathan took the bus for the last part of the journey to Musselburgh. Mags, Howard, Craig, Yvonne and Hector took the train and rolled down the hill from Musselburgh Station. Somehow, despite taking an hour, we arrived first.

Hector was first at the bar: ‘ A pint of Long White Cloud please.’ Four more were poured. The rearguard arrived, only ?Stan! opted for something different, he had the very last pint of Oakham’s JHB. Normally Robin and Hector would start the day on something less demanding. The Tempest Ale at 5.6% is a good way to get the party off to a fine start. For Mags, Jonathan and myself, this was our first experience of this much talked about Ale. It is not too shabby.

 Tempest’s Long White Cloud – an excellent Ale!

Craig held his glass up to the light. The yellow nectar looked perfect. ‘This is excellent!’ he exclaimed. I was disinclined to agree, ‘Its all right I suppose.’ was my reply. The Long White Cloud is a truly superb ale. The powerful citrus is perfectly balanced by the dry hops. This is a Bier brewed exactly to our requirements. ‘This Bier is excellent!’ Craig assured us once again.

Craig had not finished his first pint when he mooted the possibility of relocating our group to Leith.

Hector had to question this. ‘Surely we are going nowhere until this ‘Excellent Ale’ is finished?’

Craig I believe was missing Kipling, I think. A few moments later Craig was once again extolling the virtues of the Long White Cloud. Once the second pint arrived there was another reason to remark on the excellence of the Ale. Indeed, we were soon in double figures now, I was running out of toes. We think Craig liked the Bier? We had some more, just for quality control purposes.

‘This has always been my favourite Bier.’ I announced just to see if Craig still thought the Long White Cloud to be less than excellent.

Craig is in Heaven

‘I think I’ve died and gone to Heaven.’  so Craig decided to inform us.  This must have been something to do with the Ale being excellent, so he told us again.

Mein Host, Nigel appeared. He told us he had put Kipling on the previous evening and it had ‘evaporated’. There was another in the cellar which would go on later. It soon made its appearance.  Hector made a complaint: ‘We are all too happy.’

Currently on offer: Long White Cloud and Kipling.  The Jaipur has not even rated a mention!

Another Ale was announced, Oakham’s Citra. (Peterborough, Cambridgeshire). At 4.2% this Ale packs as much flavour as most Ales in the 5+% range. Once the sublimely excellent Long White Cloud had been polished off this was the obvious replacement, except for those who moved on to Kipling.  Given the photographic record, this flew out the tap…

The locals were by now engaging us in conversation when we took the required rest breaks. They were loving the range on offer too and could not believe that there was not a single pub in Glasgow who can can supply their customers to this level of satisfaction.

The new battle-cry

‘We must come through here once a month!’ Craig announced with his customary conviction.

It would be difficult to decide if the number of times the excellence of the Bier was announced matched the intensity of the desire to make our trips to Musselburgh a monthly event.

Hector has not been to Leith in some ten years. Whatever happened to Leith?

The time was coming for us to take our leave. The afternoon had been perfect, sorry, excellent.

The final service

As we stood up a new Ale was presented: Dark Star’s American Pale Ale (Partridge, West Sussex). This is yet another Ale on our current jungle drums list. Why did we go through to Musselburgh so early? The party was really getting under way.

 It was a very relaxing journey back to Glasgow. Craig, Yvonne, Mags and Howard caught an earlier train. Howard had to make a speech. Good luck. I had to wait with the other ticket for the bus crew. Robin went straight home, ?Stan! headed west with Jonathan and Hector to Partick. ?Stan! Went to the Three Judges, Jonathan and Hector made a long overdue return to Papa Gill’s for a Curry-Heute.

By default, the first Glasgow pub to be mentioned in these humble pages is The Three Judges. With nine Ales on offer it was a typical scene, nothing much to choose from. I selected the best of a bad bunch and waited for Marg who fortunately arrived soon from her own Saturday rituals.

 Musselburgh, once a month? Excellent!

The Pubs Visited today:

The Staggs – Volunteer Arms  – 81 North High Street, Musselburgh, Scotland EH21 6JE

The Three Judges  – 141 Dumbarton Road, G11 6PR

 

Posted in Glasgow, Musselburgh | Comments Off on The Staggs – Making Plans with Nigel

On the second day in München…

Posted on November 13, 2011 by Hector

Marg and Hector went down to breakfast in the Hotel Royal and found the ladies.  The Chaps had, and would not, surface this morning.  There was an announcement that the Englischer Garten would be a good place to go for a walk.  The ladies were going to walk there and take the U Bahn back, as I was buying tickets for the day anyway I suggested the opposite.  There was compliance.

At the entrance to the Englischer Garten was a strange Café with a Seilbahn carriage.  For some reason Hector had to pose in front of it.  At the Chinesischer Turm the Gluhwein was waiting.  Now this is a good way to get back into the game.

With geometric precision, Hector and Marg headed west in the direction of a certain Curry Haus, now which one could that be?  At the edge of the park we spotted guys surfing, yes surfing in the park.  Yes, way!

Let’s decant to Herrsching by which time we had abandoned Al who had arranged to meet his pal Robert.  Thanks, Robert for the Bier publication.  A Big Taxi took us up to Kloster Andechs, the source of Andechs Weizen the best Weizen vom Fass, official.  Their other Biers are not too shabby.  They might have the Spezial Hell, time to contact Howard to share my pleasure.  It will make his day.  Others must suffer.

As Marg was the only person in the group who had been here before it was mandatory that we all go to church.  The only church in all of Bayern that Hector has entered.  We paid homage to Carl Orff, who?  Short of singing the first twenty minutes of Carmina Buruna, I think they got the message.

Time for Bier

The Weizen Hell was bought by all, well almost.  Marg had Coffee, Marg had Hot Chocolate.  Good girl.  Dom and Hector moved on the Spezial Hell, hi Howard!  Al appeared but due to the lengthy journey back he did not imbibe.

This was a very restrained afternoon; there was a dinner appointment which we could not be late for.  We were too early for the optimum S Bahn and so we found ourselves in the Station Bar, drinking Spaten Hell.

There may have been a zzz … or ten on the way back to München. We were given the choice of tables at the Augustiner Bräustuben, but not our Silvester table of the past two New years.  The Edelstoff was ordered.  Food was ordered.

Weniger Ente

The Bierkutcherpfandl (€13.95) was great value.  More Duck and more Pork than a man could eat, topped with two Sausages, insane.  The Edelstoff went down very well.  Let’s go?  What?  What is it with people who always want to move on?  I never do that to people.

Andechser am Dom was the obvious draw.  The oldies departed at the Hauptbahnhof and the rest of us carried on down to Marienplatz.  They shut early on a Sunday.  There was time for a Weizen Hell and the thought of the Doppelbock Dunkles.  Half of the latter was left.  The Sports Bar was calling, again.

The Good Boys Club

Mein Host, aka Rod Stewart, is now the manager it appears.  The new waiter shook our hands as we sat down, us regulars…

Hector had one, Al produced Schnapps, and it was time for bed.  Who knows what time these guys stopped.

 Brewery and Brewery Taps visited today:

Kloster Andechs  –  Bergstraße 2,  82346, Andechs

Bahnhof Herrssching  –  Bahnhofsplatz 1, 82211,  Herrsching am Ammersee

Augustiner Bräustuben, Landsberger Str. 19,  80339, München

Andechser am Dom  –  Weinstraße 7  80333, München

Sport-Café Schiller  –  Schillerstrasse 3,  D-80336, München

Posted in München, Herrsching am Ammersee, Kloster Andechs | Comments Off on On the second day in München…

On the first day in München…

Posted on November 12, 2011 by Hector

Day 2 – München at last

A 05.00 taxi took us back to Gatwick.  I felt as if my head had just touched the pillow when the alarm went off for the early morning rise.  Whose idea was this?  I watched the sun rise in the moments between open eye and shut eye.  I read the newspaper.  Six hours into the flight we had only be airborne for a half hour.  How can easyJet call this a two hour flight?  This was turning into the longest European flight ever.  Eventually we landed in  München and took the S Bahn into town.

Knowing we were scheduled to reach the Hotel Royal just after 10.00 I had emailed to ask if any rooms could be ready.  Three out of four were and so we checked in.

We arrived at Marienplatz just as the 11.00 Glockenspiel got under way.  It’s what one does in München.  We retired en masse to the Cafe Piemonte (Petersplatz 9  80331) for the ritual hot orgasm: hot white chocolate.  Well two of  us shared this pleasure, dont go there…  The rest had coffee…

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 A noon Curry-Heute had been written into the Tin-Tinerary, only Eleanor was up for this and so we left the others at a bright and sunny Viktualienmarkt and strode down in the direction of Isartor.

Afterwards we rendezvoused at the same place and some went off to the Stadt Museum.  Marg and Hector toured some shops before Hector realised that shopping can be very tiring.  If quality Bier was to be consumed later today, a WLD was required, now.

In München Steht Ein Hofbräuhaus

There was a plan to meet up after 16.00.  Marg and Hector arrived at 16.30 and toured every seat to establish that we had arrived first.  Actually Emma had been on time but chose to wander off.  Eleanor soon joined us and we were four balanced on a table of eight.  The others arrived and squeezed on to an adjacent table before we were all joined together.  A band I had never see before played the Tirolean Schuplatten, my favourite all Bayerische tunes, I suppose it must actually be Austrian.

A litre of Hofbräu Helles was the starter for ten.  By the time we were quorate a litre of Dunkles had been ordered.  Marg had a Bier!  Her second ever Bier in the Hofbräuhaus, the first having been bought by Rheinhold Frank the band leader. She even drank it.  Now this must not be encouraged.  This union needs one of us to be sensible.

Our dinner reservation had been booked online by Hector at the start of the week.  All part of the service.  The food at the Pschorr Haus is always excellent despite not being Curry.  Eleanor walked up the road enthusing wildly about the Wiener Schnitzel that would await her.  She had me sold on this.  Marg joined the Veal party too but asked for the smaller portion, one huge slice instead of two.  Winnie also ordered the Full Monty.  Dom ordered the full Schweinhaxe.  There were audible gasps when it arrived, who could eat all this?  Al had a Schnitzel variant, Emma had the Fisch.

The food was mostly washed down with Pschorr Helles (Dir) served straight from the large wooden Barrel on the counter.  Whether it had a plastic lining, Hector knows not.

Our waiter came over as a bit churlish.  He did not look too happy when asked to provide cups of tea for Marg and Emma.  It was just his way.  I hatched a plan to get our own back.  As a linguist, Emma speaks German.  I suggested she ask for a tea to take out after we had sorted the Bill.  This forced a smile. He was worth his generous tip after all.

There was a decision to move on.  The Augustiner Großgaststätte was around the corner, well almost.

Hector went on to find the group a table.  But half the group disappeared off to church.  WTF? We were all re-assembled and then the usual folk started to disappear.  Emma was wondering if she could have a Bier smaller than a half litre.  ‘Have a Schnitt!’ I suggested.  ‘What is a Schnitt?’  And these people think they speak the language?  Maybe of the textbook, not of the Bierhaus.

The Bad Boys Club

Dom, Al and Hector bade the ladies farewell as we turned on to Schillerstrasse, The Office was calling.  For some there was a kebab to be consumed later.

 

The Brewery Taps visited today:

Der Pschorr München Wirtshaus  –  Viktualienmarkt 15,  80331, München

Hofbräuhaus  –  Platzl 9  80331, München

Zum Augustiner – Neuhauserstr. 27 – 80331 München

Sport-Café Schiller  –  Schillerstrasse 3,  D-80336, München
Posted in München | Comments Off on On the first day in München…