New Year’s Day in Ulverston

Posted on January 1, 2012 by Hector

All is quiet, on New Year’s Day, normally

Hector cannot recall the last time he made breakfast on New Year’s morning.  Bed by 02.30 made breakfast at 10.30 a possibility.  All five of us made which is even more impressive.  By now only Jonathan was still ordering the Sausages as part of the Full English.

Marg and Hector headed out into the daylight; the first time we had the chance to see the town since we arrived. We paid homage to Laurel and Hardy. Some shops were open, trains were running and more importantly, the pubs were open.  This is why we came to England.

The Farmers Arms was the first port of call.  The Hector had to investigate the possibility of a dinner booking this evening.  It was possible.  We headed up the hill passing the old kirk which dates back over a thousand years.  A wee bit of history then.

The Furness Lighthouse on the hilltop did not beckon to Hector at all.  Once we were in range of a half decent photograph it was back down.  But wait a minute; we appear to be on the same street as the rest of the group’s B&B.  We could not find St Marys Mount and so went back down the hill to the Farmers Arms for coffee.

The HTC erupted into life.  Craig and Yvonne were already at The Swan imbibing in the wonderful Hawkshead NZPA.  Maggie and Clive were not too far away, it was time to saunter along.

The promised Bacon Butties were on the bar in a help yourself format, I did.  Hector was the first person in 2012 to order a second pint of NZPA, not that we take these things seriously.  Realising that if I sat opposite the assembled crew rather than prop myself on a stool – we could in effect take over the room – I sat alone initially.  ?Stan! and Robin took the bait, Marg went for a wander but then returned to stoke the fire. Jonathan and Mags were now here too.  Once Howard and Tracey entered we were re-united once again.

A couple from Barrow in Furness joined us and added greatly to the afternoon. They were in Ulverston for the afternoon touring the pubs with coal fires.  There was a great exchange of information.

We spent a thoroughly relaxing afternoon at The Swan, taking it easy and enjoying the Ale, did I mention how wonderful it was?

Food?

The Farmers Arms was booked out by the time a quorum agreed to move on.  Marg and I decided to try our luck and left the others.  Arriving at the Stan Laurel we realised that this was the obvious place to eat, so we did.  Finally I had an Ale here too.

Townhouse Audley Gold at 4.5% (Audley, Staffordshire) could not compete on the palate but was a fine mouthwash to accompany the Stroganoff type dinner.  I was dying for a Curry-Heute.

Jonathan  had come back to arrange the transport of some fine Pyraser and Tucher Weinachtsbier up to St Marys Mount.  ?Stan! and Clive had headed off in search of Chinese, food, I believe.

With better directions, Marg and Hector found St Marys Mount in the dark, here the night party was already underway.  The place is magnificent.  This is a B&B?  The seven had sole use of a very modern kitchen and an amazing upstairs lounge.  I knew I had booked them into somewhere that looked impressive on the website, but this was way beyond expectation.  I am told the Hosts looked after the group to their complete level of satisfaction.  I suspect we shall all return here at some point in the future.

Howard had his Branded MP3 player in a dock and was broadcasting an array of sounds to the gathered assembly.  It was someone else’s turn to try and take care of the fire.  Asphyxiation became my concern.  The ladies danced, they like that sort of thing.  The Chaps watched; this is our role. Howard danced; he must be in touch with his feminine side.

Having suffered …, having put up with .., eventually Howard found Stargazer by Rainbow and I became a Happy Hector.  Marg decided it was time to take me home.

This was originally planned as the last night of the trip, but Hector managed to persuade ten of twelve to decant east to the wonderful City of Bradford.

Mirfield next year?  – the birth place of Jean Luc Picard’s alter ego…

The Pubs visited today:

The Stan Laurel  –  31 The Ellers, Ulverston, Cumbria LA12 0AB

The Farmers Arms  –  Market Pl  Ulverston,  Cumbria, LA12 7AB

The Swan Inn  –  Swan St., Ulverston, Cumbria, LA12 7JX

Posted in Ulverston | Comments Off on New Year’s Day in Ulverston

Eskdale by day, Ulverston for Hogmanay

Posted on January 1, 2012 by Hector

The strategy for the day was to find enough distraction so as to stay out of the pub and maintain peek condition for the long night ahead – oops.  Well Hector managed this, he is not convinced that the Curry at Taste of Punjab mid evening was to blame for the rapid decline of the majority.  It’s my Blog, so I get to tell it my way.

There was a hearty breakfast at 08.00 for Craig, Yvonne, Jonathan, Marg and Hector at the Stan Laurel.  Lord Clive of Crawley had furnished details of a 09.15 train to Ravenglass.  Northern Rail knew nothing of this.  And so the assembled eleven (Tracey does not do steam) hung around the award winning Ulverston Station for an extra half hour.  Still the rain came down.

The majority of our fellow passengers alighted at Ravenglass and huddled their way under the main line to the Eskdale Steam railway.  Nobody told us it was a toy train.  Not even Jonathan who had done the journey before.  Not even Craig the great steam enthusiast.

There was a shop, Marg bought some tea. This was pronounced the best cup of tea on the planet. We climbed aboard the damp, cold carriages.  The tea landed on the floor, Hector was blamed, and it must have been his fault. The replacement tea did not impress.

Some fifty minutes later we arrived at the end of the line – Boot – it was till raining. ?Stan! had the Good Beer Guide, he insisted the first pub was not the destination but the one which appeared to be miles away.  Miles later we entered the Boot Inn, they had Ale and a warm coal fire.  They also had a room full of weans and so we chose our seat carefully.

The choice of Ale was local and not that extensive. Stickin’ the Boot Inn at 4.6%, evidently the local Ale was a quiet and unremarkable start to the day.  The Ale started well revealing some hops but these diminished quickly.  Some had lunch, Yvonne played with her phone, Hector set up phantom logins.

Once we had settled, ?Stan! announced we were in the wrong pub.  Marg dragged Hector to the Eskdale Mill, the oldest operating mill in England.  They had Scottish technology, so it goes.

On entering the Brook House Inn the glasses steamed up.  A baby lay sprawled across the floor, the parents were indifferent.  For the first time Hector nearly stood on the wean, a few minutes later this nearly happened again.  Why do parents relinquish all responsibility for their uncontrollable brats once they get in a pub?  Why are they allowed in the main room of a pub anyway?

The Ale was better, the range far more impressive.  The Lagonda IPA at 5% (Manchester Marble Brewery) however did not last long and the slow coaches had to consume something lesser.  Why was Hector drinking a 5% Ale this early in the day – this was not the intended strategy, time to slow down.

There was Mulled Wine, Marg had some, it is still early.  When it was later it was time to catch the train back down the valley.  There was a brief respite and the sun shone briefly.  The return journey to Ravenglass was much more harmonious.

?Stan! had suggested a stop off at Foxfield.  The ticket Doris was not too happy with this; our return tickets apparently did not permit breaking the journey.  Why not? They do in every other country.  She told us nobody would care, so we decided we didn’t either.

Alighting at Foxfield it was dark, totally dark.  We could see nothing.  The train departed and there was the Prince of Wales directly across the line.  We crossed the line, it is what one does.

The pub was stowed.  It was old fashioned in layout, two rooms knocked into one?  The furniture was random pieces rescued from who knows where.  We fell in love with the place.  Our Hostess was amazing, she was lapping up the sudden arrival of eleven more than she was expecting off the down train.

The local brewery was well represented; Hector took to the railway spirit to heart and ordered a pint of Desperate Encounter at 3.5%? At £2 a pint this was in order.  Marg had Mulled Wine, more?  Mags had Hot Cider.  Craig and Yvonne spotted a New Zealand IPA in bottles at 6.8%, help ma Boab.  There was Schlenkerla too on offer; in fact there was something for everyone. We could have stayed; Our Hostess told us there are rooms.  We told her we would have to leave smartly to catch our train; she furnished us with plastic pints.  We told her we would be back, definitely!

The train came, we held out our hands.  The train stopped, the rain did not.

Back in Ulverston Hector and Marg retired to prepare for diner and the main event of the day.  Craig and Yvonne were not far behind us.  The rest decided the Devonshire Arms would be their refuge for the next two and a half hours, was this wise?

There was a Curry, then it was time for The Swan.

A Tale of Two Biers

Time was  when the  Hawkshead Cumbrian Five Hop (Kendal, Cumbria) at 5% would have been more than enough.  The Friends of Hector had been seduced by a sample last night of the even more astonishing Hawkshead NZPA (Kendal, Cumbria)  at 6%.  We arrived at 22.00, it was not on.  We settled for the Five Hop but of course asked for a strategy to get the Big Brother on.  Only by finishing the Five Hop could we free the tap, we thought we had done a fair bit of damage last night, so this should not have been a problem.  It became evident that the quantity was beating us.

One corner of the room was free, at the fire, Marg took her seat at the hearth.  We knew the couple occupying the far end would be spooked eventually as our numbers grew.  For a while we were in two camps.

Craig and Yvonne became very quiet.  They blamed the Curry. Robin wasn’t saying much, he blamed the Curry too.  ?Stan! was his usual self.  Howard, Tracey, Clive and Maggie had only recently joined the company having just secured the final table to complete the wall of Scots along the outside wall. Hector was pacing himself so as to maximise the intake of the anticipated Super-Ale. Marg decided to stoke the fire, there was no stopping her.  This woke up Tracey who shared my disbelief.  The room was already roasting, Jonathan claimed not to notice but he had probably not thawed out after his al fresco railway experience.  Mags was here too.

The bar was closed half an hour either side of the Bells.  There was a Firework, somewhere.

Happy New Year!

The ritual See You Jimmy hats were produced by those who complied.  Everyone had their turn.  The ritual Calendars were issued, Tracey loved Howard’s so much she wants all the photos posted in a Special Blog.   There was a  calendar for Robin who is 65 later this year: this let me be the first to say Happy Birthday, Robin!

Still no NZPA.

Craig and Yvonne faded away to their beds.  Robin and Mags were close behind.  Stan was almost following on when the Ale finally appeared.  Only Jonathan and Hector, who had paced himself to perfection, were able to take advantage.  Jonathan held the first pint however Hector had actually purchased the first pint in advance.  Ah, the futures market…

To say the Ale was wonderful would be an understatement.  This was perfection: dry, hoppy, citrus, full-bodied, everything we look for.

By 02.00 ?Stan! had disappeared, Clive and Maggie followed on. Marg had lasted the night, Jonathan and Hector were just getting started.

Hector had put his reputation on the line calling a New Year in Ulverston.  Thanks to Dave, Mein Host, we had a Bier to remember, always.  It was obvious that there was plenty left, who would get to drink it?

The Pubs visited today:

The Stan Laurel  –  31 The Ellers, Ulverston, Cumbria LA12 0AB

Boot Inn  –  Boot, Holmrook, Cumbria CA19 1TG

The Brook House Inn  –  Boot, Eskdale, Cumbria CA191TG

The Prince of Wales  –  Foxfield, Broughton-in-Furness, Cumbria, LA20 6BX

The Swan Inn  –  Swan St., Ulverston, Cumbria, LA12 7JX

Posted in Boot, Foxfield, Ulverston | 2 Comments

Ulverston, it is not in Deutschland…

Posted on December 30, 2011 by Hector

For the first time in nine years Hector and Marg will bring in the New Year in the UK, and England for the first time.  Ulverston is not in Deutschland just in case we have yet to convince some people who did ask.  Located on the south coast of Cumbria it is technically not in The Lake District.  Why Ulverston? It has more pubs per square metre than any market town Hector has ever visited, it has charm and three Curry Houses, so why not?

Maggie and Clive (aka Olive) were heading north from Crawley by train and were scheduled to arrive at 14.14.  Three cars left Glasgow and headed down the M74/M6/A590 to Ulverston.  The driving conditions were awful.

With Craig and Yvonne bopping away to Joy Division in the rear of the Hector-Mobile we were first car to arrive in Ulverston and checked in at the Stan Laurel.  Jonathan would occupy the remaining room once he dropped off ?Stan!, Robin and Mags at St Marys Mount.  Howard and Tracey would chug along later.

The rain was still pouring down, the Stan Laurel was closed and so the four of us headed out to meet Clive and Maggie.  I realised that we would not see the town centre in daylight for another forty eight hours.

The Piel Castle Inn was the rendezvous point and one of the four establishments in Ulverston previously visited by Hector.  The interior is magnificent with the tall baronic hall clad in weapons that would befit any Saturday night out in the east end of Glasgow.   How clichéd is that? There was nowhere to hang our coats, an oversight that Clive was to comment upon more than once.

The ten of us took over the large corner tables and the weekend was now underway, except the choice of Ale was not that wonderful. Robinson’s (Stockport, Cheshire) Dizzy Blonde at 3.8% was a safe start to a long weekend.  It would be all about pacing oneself and not peeking too soon.

A move was inevitable, passing two pubs to check Ales on the way, the majority on offer were Robinsons who do not cater for dry, hoppy, pale and 5%.  The Mill was the location where Hector knew there would be something for everyone.  It was also a possible New Year venue if my plans did not go well.  They did have coat hooks.

With nothing at the correct abv, Craig and Yvonne went straight for the draught Erdinger, the rest of us, save Marg, tried the local Ales.  The Lancaster (Lancaster, Lancashire) Blonde at 4.1% was a step in the right direction but still lacked the wow factor that say Fyne Ales’ Jarl is capable of at a more modest 3.8%.

Marg ordered a Mediterranean style platter of food instead.  A wet Tracey and a Howard resplendent in a new green waterproof finally caught up with us.  The Friends of Hector were re-united.

A sit down meal was waved, a Chippy on the hoof to the next port of call was consumed in the pouring rain.

The Swan Inn came recommended.  Russell, the cellar man at the Bon Accord had asked if I had visited the Swan when Marg and I were down in Ulverston in April.  Mein Host at the Stan Laurel had previously suggested that this venue would most likely satisfy our needs.  I had phoned last week to verify that they would be open, not a ticketed event etc.  Dave the charge hand took me on; we were talking the same language.

At the door Marg and I were recognised as non-local by Graham who turned out to be something of a local celebrity.  Having spotted Oakham’s Scarlet Macaw at 4.4% (Peterborough, Cambridgeshire) I knew this would not let us down.  Oakham make superb Ale.  Graham introduced me to Dave, Mein Host, we were cooking on gas.

The rest of the company drifted in, still soaking wet.  There were no coat hooks.  Marg had kept her seat in front of the coal fire and was entertaining a local couple who had a dog.  We took over the far side wall of the large room and settled in for the rest of the evening.  On my next visit to the bar I spotted a new offering.

The Hawkshead Cumbrian Five Hop (Kendal, Cumbria) at 5% has been experienced once by Hector in Glasgow.  The Chaps summoned Hector one summer afternoon; the entire contents of the barrel were sitting in pint glasses on the table in front of the assembled crew.  It was that impressive.   I was permitted a taste, this is what we are looking for.  This was the Ale now on offer.

Dave presented two half pint glasses he had extracted from the forthcoming barrels.  One Ale stood out – the Hawkshead NZPA at 6% was unbelievable.  New Zealand Hops are popping up with increasingly regularity these days.  This had everything, dry, citrus, body, a perfect ale.  It was promised for 21.00 on Hogmanay.  I passed the glass around and reminded all that the Hector was the first person in the company to taste this wonderful Bier.  We drank the Five Hops with enthusiasm but in the back of our minds…

 

The Pubs visited today:

The Stan Laurel  –  31 The Ellers, Ulverston, Cumbria LA12 0AB

The Piel Castle Inn  –  37 Market Street  Ulverston, Cumbria LA12 7LR

The Mill at Ulverston  –  Mill St  Ulverston, Cumbria LA12 7EB

The Swan Inn  –  Swan St., Ulverston, Cumbria, LA12 7JX

Posted in Ulverston | Comments Off on Ulverston, it is not in Deutschland…

It’s Tropical (almost) in Aberdeen

Posted on December 23, 2011 by Hector

It is written that at this time of year, Hector will drive Marg to the land of her birth, following a star to the north.  Aberdeen is usually cold, a certain bedroom where we reside is colder still, indeed the soft drinks for the festive day were found to be chilling in our place of repose. However, this year it was evident from the moment of our arrival that something was wrong with the ambient temperature – Aberdeen is warm – indeed at 14?C it is the warmest part of the UK!

Having greeted the relatives, Hector was able to escape for a rendezvous at Aberdeen’s most celebrated watering hole, the Prince of Wales.  Jonathan was already in situ and was consuming the only Ale on the board that could be quaffable: Cairngorm’s Trade Winds at a modest 4.3% (Aviemore, Inverness-shire).  The Ale was warm, the fault of the pub.  The Ale was not outstanding, the fault of the brewery.

The Prince of Wales is not the pub it was.  Hector recalls two winters ago entering the premises to find Pale Rider (Kelham Island, Sheffield) when it was still quotes as a worthy Ale.  The phone was out ready to share the discovery with the Chaps back home when Hector had to fall on his sword.  The cellar in the Prince of Wales must have been the warmest place in Aberdeen back then, with the temperature outside today it was approaching unacceptable.  In the summer time Hector simply cannot drink the Ale on these premises and tends to look for bottles.  The politics of Green King having taken over the pub has not helped either, the choice of Ale on offer is now restricted compared to years gone by.

Cauld Reekie at 6.2% from Edinburgh’s Stewarts Brewery (Loanhead, West Lothian) was the choice to complete the session.  This was certainly chewier than what had been consumed previously but was getting on the sweet side of the scale.  Surely somewhere in Aberdeen there is cool, dry, hoppy Ale on offer?

Jonathan suggested we visit The Grill Bar.  Hector has walked past this countless times; the exterior is such that one would never guess what lay behind the frosted glass.  This is again a very traditional pub with a very mixed clientele, the place was stowed.  They also sold an Ale that suited our palate: Fyne Ales’ Hurricane Jack (Achadunan, Cairndow, Argyll) at 4.4% is the first Ale brewed by these fine people that actually impressed this commentator.  Their Avalanche is the Bier of choice on many a night out.

This proved to be a perfect end to the evening, but not before a bit of winding up was undertaken.  Paul at the Bon Accord (Glasgow) prides himself in having a large range of Whisky, I sent him a photo of the gantry.  He replied quickly and accepted that The Grill may well have more than he stocks.  1 – 0 !

From the visit to the glasshouse at Duthie Park I leave you with some photos of Hector in the desert.  It is in the desert where Hector will reside for the next three days…  I return now to the room where the soft drinks are chilling…

The Pubs visited today:

The Prince of Wales  –  7 St Nicholas Lane,  Aberdeen, AB10 1HF

The Grill Bar  –  213 Union Street,  Aberdeen, AB11 6BA

Posted in Aberdeen | 1 Comment

The Lone Diner in Köln

Posted on December 19, 2011 by Hector

Cologne Alone

The day began with a visit to the excellent Saturn music shop before a very bog standard Curry at the award winning Kamasutra. Jonathan was driving to Rotterdam, Steve and Juliet had to find their way back to Weeze. Hector was left with a day to himself in Köln, a day to catch up on some Blogging. There had to be Bier.

 Do you remember Sion?

Having walked through the Weihnachtsmarkt at Neumarkt I ended up back at the Dom. Sion looked a peaceful place to sit and so I located myself at a table at the entrance vestibule. The was Curry-Heute to write about which definitely takes priority over the Bier-Traveller Blog. I was hoping that Wi-fi would be widely available, however it was only at the Airport where I found a decent Kostenlos Link and managed to do some posting.

A couple of test tubes at Sion was a pleasant change. I believe Steve and Juliet had dropped in yesterday. Not as famous as the Big Three Kölsch outlets, Sion is certainly worth the visit.

Rather than abuse the hospitality, as in can one really spend half an afternoon over two glasses of Kolsch, I relocated to Früh am Dom. Here I found a very silly table for one in the Restaurant room and completed my writing for the day. Once again on a two Kolsch limit, this was a splendid and relaxing way to spend a Monday afternoon on one’s lonesome.

For the final time with Mr Stelios for the foreseeable, I took the on-time flight back to Edinburgh where the ever dutiful Marg was waiting to whisk the Hector home.

 This was end of the first day proper of the vacation, did I mention I am on holiday?

Brewery Taps visited today:

Brauhaus Sion  –  Unter Taschenmacher 5,   50667, Köln

Früh am Dom  –  Am Hof 12-18  50667, Köln

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Enough of Köln, we need a trip to Düsseldorf

Posted on December 18, 2011 by Hector

By the time Hector had made his pilgrimage to the Indien Curry Basmati House, the Chaps had signalled that they were leaving the Gluhwein stands in Heumarkt and were heading to Mühlen. Hector was well late. Actually I was ensuring that the fundamental rule of our trips applied to me also – one can join in or not, whatever is going on. By the time I arrived Steve, Juliet and Maggie had gone shopping. Fancy going shopping at an xmas market, what a waste of VDT. This left Jonathan and Clive as the welcoming committee.

The efficient Kobi, whose name just happened to be Bert, served up the Kölsch as required. The others joined us after a couple of test tubes, no doubt after realising that hand luggage severely restricts what can be purchased.

Juliet asked Bert for a Gluhwein, which was not listed on the menu. His reply (in Deutsch) was to point to the door and tell us that two hundred metres away there was a stall selling Gluhwein. Juliet then asked for a Coffee, which was on the menu. The reply was pretty much the same. Juliet was given her Coffee.

It was time for Bert to end his shift, we had to settle the bill so far.

Clive and Maggie’s share was €12.80. Clive always has to be last to pay. Twelve eighty – Bert said to Clive. Or as we say in England, Zwolf Achtsig –  was Clive’s reply. Or as we say in Germany, just make it fifteen! – retorted Bert. Clive accepted defeat.

Steve and Juliet went away to do other things and are not in this saga anymore. We headed towards the original Gaffel, maybe Goulash Soup could be on the cards. They were busy. Maggie and Hector led the way to the Keller at Früh am Dom, the ashtrays were out – in mid afternoon. I do not understand the policy here, the smoking area is in a dedicated room upstairs, those who cannot exercise self control are sufficiently catered for. We crossed over to Gaffel am Dom walking passed the magnificent piece of architecture en route. Gaffel was mostly blocked off for a private party, and so back to the main part of Früh am Dom. This keeps us fit.

Herr Willems, my favourite Kobi was on duty. Hector always feels that he must be Dutch. By the time we were all reunited the Kölsch was already ordered. Our Kobi decided that Jonathan and Clive really needed two of the desperately small glasses in which this Bier is served. Our Kobi evened things up and brought Hector a second test tube.

Maggie attempted to purchase the Goulash Soup as sold in the Keller where the Soup comes in a hollowed out half Roll. Despite the fact that the kitchen is in the Keller where the smoke is, if one does not sit down there and endure further smoke, then one cannot be served one’s Goulash Soup in this manner. A bowl is was then.

Clive and Maggie headed to the Airport, Jonathan and Hector boarded the busiest train in Germany and went to Düsseldorf. Time to phone Marg.

Düsseldorf Hauptbahnhof has had quite a makeover in the past year, and for the better.

The U Bahn in Düsseldorf was correctly negotiated and we were in Füchschen in no time at all. Being a Sunday evening it was quiet, there was no problem finding a table. It felt like a year since my last visit, in fact it was two weeks short of a year. The glorious Altbier was procured in the amazingly large 0.25l glass. Hector has come to prefer Alt to Kölsch, sshhh. The Alt is even drier and despite the darker appearance the Malt is not overwhelming.

We surveyed the menu and for some reason  both ordered the Bayerische Wurst Salat. What a mistake. A pile cold shredded Sausage accompanied the Salad from Hell and a portion of Bratkartoffellen. How could any man eat all this? When Jonathan had cleared his plate, Hector stopped eating. More Alt was needed to wash this down.

It was now time for the main event, Uerige. We had worked out we could do two Altbier Houses properly and get the optimum train back, any later and the journey time would double.

We passed the modest stalls which comprise the Düsseldorf Weinachtsmarkt, no competition with Köln then.

Uerige was quiet. The main room where Jonathan and Hector had spent a glorious evening this time last year was occupied by no more than a dozen folk. The Bier came, the King of Altbier (IMHO).

Chaps at the adjacent table were evidently Scousers. There was an exchange of banter, it was somebody’s birthday, I forget whose.

No Frikadelle was brought round which was a disappointment, there is always room for an Uerige Frikadelle. It was pleasing to see that the original Doris and Bert were sitting beside each other in the Pit.

We were back in Köln by 00.15. We had to walk through Gaffel am Dom just in case there were any familiar faces. The tables were on the chairs, the staff were congregated at the far end of the large room – most of them were smoking. Now which part of Smoking Ban have the people of NRW not come to terms with?

Brewery Taps visited today:

Mühlen  –  Heumarkt 6, 50667, Köln, Deutschland

Im Füchschen  –  Ratinger Str. 28-30, 40213 Düsseldorf,

Uerige Düsseldorf   –   Berger Strasse 1, D 40123, Düsseldorf

 

Posted in Düsseldorf, Köln | Comments Off on Enough of Köln, we need a trip to Düsseldorf

A Day at the Köln Weinachtsmarkt

Posted on December 17, 2011 by Hector

 The Curry-Heute at Restaurant Bombay was a perfect start to the day.  Arriving bang on the rendezvous time of 13.00 at the Alter Markt, Steve and Juliet were already enjoying their first  Glühwein of the day at the stall opposite the original Gaffel Haus.  Clive appeared but could only hear us.  Maggie had told him to ‘stand there’, he did.  Food was their priority, had  they not heard of Curry?

Jonathan joined us eventually; there is another Glühwein stall opposite another Gaffel Haus…

Steve and Juliet disappeared; they had to secure their hotel room, the rest decanted to the latter mentioned stall, more Glühwein.  Then there was the other stall at the Ice Rink, fortunately the only place with ice in Köln today.  Guess what, there was even more Glühwein!  Maggie was becoming concerned about the quantity – ‘Pity there is no Glühbier.’  As if.

Plus ca Change

It was still daylight, this felt strange.  The temperature was more than bearable. Nothing seemed quite right.  Could it have been the Glühwein?  Jonathan had previously discovered in the new edition of Insomnia (the Köln Guide) the existence of the Sünner Keller and paid a quick visit last evening.  The short trip across the Rhein would give us a much needed break.

The Tram came before we could buy a group ticket. The Tram was wedged, no chance of buying a ticket.  By the time we passed Messe/Deutz the carriage had emptied and Hector made his way to the machine to make the journey legal.  The buttons were pressed and the individual Euro coins inserted, …. one …. at …. a …. time….   By the time we reached the correct Kalk U Bahn stop I still had the Cents to put in.  The doors opened, the rest alighted.  The ticket began to print.  The doors began to close.  With the athleticism born out of desperation, Hector was through the door and on to the platform ticket in hand!

The Sünner Keller was a few metres away, the Brauhaus was visible, this would be our first Sünner Kölsch at Source (Walfisch being the usual outlet).  We will definitely return here in warmer months.  We have lost an afternoon place to sit and relax outdoors since the demise of the Dom Keller a few years back.  We went downstairs to the Keller (very confusing) which was set up for a private function.

Last evening Jonathan had decided to not have a Bier in the stowed Pit which was the only available place due to another private function.  Doris did not want to give us a Bier at a table until I pointed out that we were here for an hour and would be away long before the 18.00 deadline.

We were given a seat at table for ten. The Knoblauch Family, the famous Köln family who are ridiculously healthy but generally odorous, would be the recipient of this table on our departure.

At Sünner am Walfsch the Kölsch is always sold Direkt, no pumps.  At the Brewery Tap the draught Bier is pumped, why?  On a positive note, there was information on the Deckel about the existence of Sünner Hefeweizen.  We will ask next time.

It was agreed that this is a new venue for the future, but not if it is always going to be booked out. The Hector may have to make a booking.

The third Kölsch was to be the last, we paid the Doris, and she was speaking English to us now, happy that we would not be blocking the table.   A new Doris had just started her shift and came over and offered us more Bier.  Now, what if…

Back to the Glühwein

The wonders of modern day communication devices are that we were able to set a new rendezvous with Steve and Juliet at the Mediaeval Markt.  This has been our favourite, and traditionally is the only market one pays an entrance fee to.  A return trip on the U Bahn to Heumarkt and the short walk up the Rhein took us towards the Chocolate Factory where the Mediaeval Markt is sited.  The place is increasing in popularity we thought as we approached; the tents had now spilled off the island.  We met Steve and Juliet who looked despondent – ‘there is no Mediaeval Markt’.

There was a crowd. 

(First sentence, top of page two, ‘The Sirens of Titan’, Kurt Vonnegut)

Something Happened  (His pal)

With all these people here something was happening.  We passed the outer tented stalls and crossed over to the island.  The place has gone upmarket, some very pukkah stalls. In the short distance ahead was a stall where we usually congregate.  Glühwein was on offer, all was well.

Alarm!

Glühbier was on sale.  Hot Liefmans Kriek was being served, we had to have it.  We did.  One was enough.  Whilst consuming this we watched as people bought the German equivalent of a Flaming Mo.  We had to try this: a hot Rum Punch, a Sugar Lump supported by a cradle above, an Elixir poured over the Sugar and then set on fire.  Juliet set herself on fire; well her cup went up in flames.  This Punch was aptly named, we drank one, we left whilst able.  We shall be back.

The Reissdorf Haus in  Köln Sud

Apart from Juliet who was experiencing her first visit to Köln this has become a firm favourite destination.  We have abandoned our former home in Klein Giechenmarkt in favour of this newer totally non-smoking establishment.  Jonathan found a bus, Hector navigated with geometric precision and a map.  Our table awaited, Jonathan was there first.

Some were hungry, Hector was not sure.  A late afternoon Frikadelle had filled a gap.  The rest ordered food, I still considered the possibility of crossing the street to the Indien Basmati Curry House, two Curry houses in one day is not unknown.  I restrained myself and decided that 0.2l glasses of Kölsch would suffice.

We had a lovely Doris who knows how the system works and whose tray always had a Kölsch for Jonathan and I.  As the night progressed we looked at the marks on our Deckel.  Doris brought over the Bier mat from the adjacent table, they had more marks.  ‘But there’s ten of them.’ I protested, ‘There’s only two of you.’ was her reply.

A Wed Wose

I cannot buy Marg flowers, she would be suspicious, and she wasn’t here.  Clive cannot buy Maggie flowers, she has not just given birth.  I bought Maggie a Wed Wose.  She and Juliet appeared to be more amused by the large Pepper Pot.

And there’s more

Trams were taken back towards the Hauptbahnhof, Jonathon bade farewell after a couple of stops at Barbarossa Platz and made the remaining five legal travellers.  The ladies were put to bed, the real men took table at Gaffel am Dom.  I watched four chaps being refused service, far too much for one day apparently.  Some have to learn how to pace themselves.

Wilma, Wilma!

The night porter at Hotel Colonia was nowhere to be seen.  I rang the bell, nothing.  I banged the door, nothing.  I did both repeatedly and simultaneously for ten minutes.  Eventually.

 

Brewery Taps visited today:

Sunner Keller  –  Kalker Strasse 260-262, 51103,   Köln –Kalk

Zum Alten Brauhaus (Reissdorf)  –  Severinstraße 51, 50678,  Köln

Gaffel am Dom  –  Bahnhofsvorplatz 1, 50667,  Köln

Posted in Köln | 1 Comment

Three Nights in Köln, The Arrival

Posted on December 16, 2011 by Hector

Hector is on vacation

The Köln Weinachtsmarkt has become a ritual way to end the longest of terms.  A dash to Edinburgh Airport was required to catch the 17.10 flight to Köln-Bonn Flughafen.  For reasons best know to Mr Stelios, this is the last time such a journey will be made on this route for the foreseeable.  Five times this year Hector has made good use of this facility, so it is logical to dangle the prize in front of me then take it away.

The flight was on time, yeah, but then one encounters the bottleneck at the station under the Airport.  Only two working ticket machines is not good enough, especially when most people do not know how they work.  Even those who do have to press twenty on screen buttons to purchase the simplest of tickets.

For once Hector did not alight at the Hauptbahnhof but cleverly stayed on to Hansaring and then dropped down to Christophstrasse U Bahn station.  I was at Hotel Colonia over an hour after touchdown, this does not sound efficient. No longer does this hotel have Wi-Fi in the rooms, will this be my last visit?

By this time Jonathan had has his fill of Gluhwein and was waiting for Hector in the Restaurant at Früh am Dom.

Time for a Kölsch

Well this is what I had in mind, the Kobi had another.  He refused to bring Bier until he had enough definite orders to fill his tray.  This is not how it is done.  There were gaps between Biers, in a Kölsch House?, unheard of!  Still, in the brief moments when the test tubes were full, life was very pleasant indeed.

Olive and Maggie touched down and checked in to their exclusive hotel beside the Dom.  We were soon united, however Steve and Juliet were still en route for their night in Weeze.  Where does the time go?  Mobile phones are wonderful, in the past one could have spent half an hour wandering around trying to find one’s friends.  Some people we know would still spend an hour and a half trying to find the exit – true!  In the past we would have rendezvoused in the Keller, but now we know the dreaded weed is permitted late on, we like to breath air.  So it was time to decant to Gaffel am Dom where a party was in full swing.  The place was stowed.  Rather than look for a table we took a standing table at the doorway.  Service here was excellent.  There was time to admire the old Bier adverts which adorned the walls.  There has not been a huge change made to the venue since it was re-badged from the Alt Köln Gilden Haus.  If only they would sell the Bier Direkt, there must be someone in Köln selling Gaffel straight from the barrel?

The Brewery Taps visited this evening:

Fruh am Dom   –  Am Hof 12-18,  50667, Köln

Gaffel am Dom  –  Bahnhofsvorplatz 1,  50667, Köln

 

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The Bradford Weekend – Day 2

Posted on November 26, 2011 by Hector

Robin was my designated Travel Partner for the day, £9.50 to roam West Yorkshire, great value.  This is by all buses and trains, even better.  After Hector’s  superb Curry-Heute at The International we headed east to join the others at The Hop in Leeds.  This is the Ossett Brewery Tap and the pouring of Excelsior is enough to put this on the map.  I first encountered this area underneath Leeds Station back in 1996 when I first started coming down to Yorkshire regularly, this was another life.  Since the canal bank was modernised and the appearance of the new build, the atmosphere has sadly gone.  There used to be wonderful shops under the arches selling all sorts of ethnic goods.  Alas, no more.  The Bratwurst stall has gone too.

The rest of The Chaps had located themselves on the Mezzanine, we thought it better to grab a pint before climbing the stairs.

Twenty Minutes Later

To say the service was slow, no let’s not prevaricate, the service was diabolical!  A new Doris hadn’t a clue, she even had to ask the solitary Bert where the Guinness tap was…  Bert was caught up with one guys food order… ‘ would you like mash with that?’ tap, tap, tap, ‘and gravy?’ tap, tap, tap, ‘and the other pie?’ tap, tap, tap… What a useless set up.  A pencil and paper would have been far more efficient than this useless till.  How far was the kitchen, two metres away?

Jonathan and Craig needed another Bier, they were gone for ages.

Now Hector had suggested we leave the Hop just after 14.00 in order to catch a train to Todmorden.  I suspected that as in our last visit, The Chaps may be dragged out with the proverbial heels dragging along the ground.  The decision to leave was an easy one.

This was not before Howard investigated the strange goings on at the adjacent tables.  There were a lot of dolls around; I do not refer to Yvonne or Tracey.  The people were doing things with their dolls, all far too weird for us, Todmorden here we come.

The Shack on Square Wheels

Some of the rolling stock in Yorkshire is unbearable.  The Huddersfield to Sheffield line via Penistone has the proverbial shack on wheels.  Guess what turned up to take us to Todmorden?  Time to re-plan.  Dewsbury was not too far; let’s get off this piece of crap as soon as possible.  We crawled through Dewsbury.  Sowerby Bridge was mentioned, but it was only minutes from Todmorden.  Jonathan and ?Stan! stayed on the train to Sowerby Bridge, six of us bailed at Brighouse.

The Sir Richard Oastler has featured in this Blog before, a truly wonderful Wetherspoon’s conversion with the usual poor Wetherspoon’s service.  Howard had words.  On my visit to the bar the locals were going mental trying to get served.  The day was frustrating in terms of service but the Bier was good.   The Bridgehouse Barnstormer 4.4% was below our usual abv, but was so enjoyable Robin and I had more.  Craig and Yvonne spotted the Jaipur, positive noises were made but some was left.  Jaipur is no longer worth drinking IMHO.   Maybe Howard and Tracey will reveal what they consumed.

The Main Event

John and Judith were due to rendezvous with us at The Grove.  We were there first, well, six of us were.  ?Stan! and Jonathan did not show up for over an hour, hence they had the cheap seats. Malcolm (Judith’s other husband?) whom I met on the day this company came together was brought too.

The Grove always has an interesting array of Ale.  The Thornbridge/Kernel Coalition Burton Ale at  7.2% was served in half pints only.  This was enough. Robin had the Dark Star Hophead which at 3.9% was going in the wrong direction for Hector.  Craig thought an early bed time was called for and embarked on a session of Buxton Axe Edge Double IPA at 6.8%.  One pint was enough for the rest of us.  In fact one pint was enough for Craig.  The new experience of Thornbridge Crux at 5.4% did not set the heather on fire.  Kipling it is not.

John made sensible choices. Judith was straight in to the (Pavel’s) Kwak, one of the finest of Belgian Biers.  What a lady.  This was followed by Westmalle, I suspect she and John would do well on one of our summer extravaganzas, who knows, in time…

Yvonne decided to replicate the great disaster of The Sparrow from the previous night.  She turned her bottle and glass over and pulled the bottle from the glass.  She had to use two hands, that does not count.

Jonathan and ?Stan! may have been on this trip.  They took the bus back to Bradford, the rest of us sped back on a comfortable train.  It was definitely time for a Curry-Heute!

 

 

 

 

 

The Pubs visited today:

The Hop  –  Neville Street  Leeds, West Yorkshire LS1 4BR

Richard Oastler  –  Bethel Street, Brighouse, West Yorkshire, HD6 1JN

The Grove  –  2 Spring Grove Street, Huddersfield, HD1 4BP

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The Bradford Weekend – Day 1

Posted on November 25, 2011 by Hector

You must come down to Bradford on the last Friday of the month to visit The Saltaire Brewery.’ so Ricky told me in the summer when I was last down. And it was arranged that The Friends of Hector booked well discounted rooms at the Holiday Inn Express via Expedia.

When Ricky was up in Glasgow recently he announced that he had now booked a trip to Poland this very weekend. Last weekend emails started to circulate when ?Stan! realised that entry to the Saltaire Friday night extravaganza was by ticket only and they had gone. Another classic ‘Holden Tours’ was underway.

?Stan!, Howard and Tracey would be in situ to get the available tickets at the door from 16.00. Robin, Craig, Yvonne and Hector were not due in Shipley until 20.40, what chance entry?

Jonathan texted en-route (we do not know which route he took down or when he arrived) to inform us that I was number 58 and that we could talk our way in. Eventually ?Stan! called to state that our entry was guaranteed and just as importantly, he would come to the station to meet us. Although we had Google Maps, Shipley Station is a complicated affair. Take the wrong direction and one could be walking for ages in the wrong direction.

It was a ten minute walk which was partly parallel to the stretch of railway line we had just traversed. A canal crossing, an industrial estate then the light of a fire. The Hog Roast beckoned for some. Hector knew that a Bradford Curry was the priority, the appetite must be kept intact.

The Cascade at 4.8% was the first choice. With American Hops this should set the benchmark for the evening. This was followed by the Galaxy at 5% which was darker and further away from our preferred style. It was at this point someone mentioned that they would close at 22.00.

There was time to fit in a third. Robin and Hector who have an uncanny knack of ordering the same Bier went back for more of the Cascade. The Citrus flavour was not overwhelming but this was certainly the better of the two.

There was time to take stock of the fact that we were in the working part of the Brewery. Sitting upstairs on a gantry we could see all below. There was a temporary bar erected at the door staffed by a very pleasant couple. A more permanent bar was opposite where we sat but had Ales we did not have time to contemplate. The main Chap was still serving at 22.00 so it was perceived that drinking up time would be liberal.

We finished our Bier in comfort and thanked the staff as we left. We have all resolved to return. There are few Fridays in the calendar when I could be here earlier that also coincide with the opening times. We shall see.

The last train from Shipley to Bradford proper was just after 23.00 , we caught this comfortably. Jonathan, Howard and Tracey took a taxi back to town. They no longer feature in today’s saga. The city centre was deserted. We were the only people on the streets. This highlights just how much the ethnicity of this city has changed.

Ricky took Marg and Hector to a city centre bar earlier this year, it was closed. ?Stan! insisted, this proves he is not Dr Stan, that we visit The Sparrow. I immediately recognised where he was taking us, he was certain the place would be open until midnight. This gave us time for a Bier but no time to check-in.

Hector found a table in the busy, spartan room. All expense has been spared on the décor. It was then I was told that there were seats downstairs. I saw a sign saying the facilities were downstairs, perhaps they need a new sign. Downstairs was empty I was soon to discover.  Robin returend from the bar with pints of Ilkley Gold 3.9%.  This simply put me in the mood.

?Stan! Decided that a bottle of Schlenkerla Marzen was to be the night cap. He fetched it, it was overpriced.

This is the part of the evening that has become legendary. Sky News just happened to have a camera truck on stand by. Their main presenter was helicoptered in to witness the next few minutes. The video clip of this has had fifteen billion hits on You Tube in the last twenty four hours. Here is what actually happened.

?Stan! brought the bottles of the very fine smoked Bier to the tables with the inverted glasses covering them. Hector casually turned the whole lot upside down and began one his Bier pouring party tricks. By carefully lifting the bottle away from the bottom of the glass the Bier will pour perfectly. It did, or rather it was. The glass was not straight sided. Somehow the bottle had become slightly wedged. Ooops, I quickly had to grab bottle and glass in each hand to release the bottle. Glass-bottle-bottle-glass. Mr Cooper would have been proud of me, that’s Tommy, not Davy. Craig was set off into one of his moments of hysteria. This is a moment that might be mentioned again, and again, and…

The Chaps at the check-in desk were determined that Hector would have his credit card swiped and pay for the pre-paid rooms again. Hector was determined that this was not going to happen. A phone-call to Expedia eventually sorted this mess. The rooms were allocated, no more money had been taken, it was now 01.30.

It was long overdue, but it was certainly time for Curry-Heute!

The Brewery and Pub visited today:

Saltaire Brewery Limited  –  The Brewery, County Works, Dockfield Road, Shipley,West Yorkshire, BD17 7AR

The Sparrow  –  32 Northgate, Bradford, BD1 3HZ

Posted in Bradford, Shipley | Comments Off on The Bradford Weekend – Day 1