Hector’s Holländisch Hootenanny, a Brugge too far – Day 8

Posted on July 28, 2011 by Hector

Orange T-shirt day

We needed food. We had arranged to meet up at the Brouwerij ‘t IJ at opening time, 15.00. En route to Belgique we came across the Moti Mahal where the best Curry of the trip, by far, was consumed. With Robin once again leading the way, we ended up at The Dam. Belgique was close by, faded memories of what Robin was looking for began to materialise in Hector’s mind. Moments later we were sitting in Belgique supping La Chouffe. Well it is a Belgian pub.

The Camera Eye

This was to be another day without photos. The Curry House was the last photo of the day. My chip had reached 9999, the camera needed reformatted, to do so would wipe everything. Jonathan caught up with us, he concurred.

Brother Peter had sent texts telling us how to get t’  t’ IJ. Did he think Robin did not know how to get to his favourite Dutch Brewery? We found the bus, but from a new location, apparently. The driver refused our fare. The orange uniform had clearly impressed. Indeed, he tooted and waved to us as he drove past later in the day.

Hector had the Wit Bier and then had water for the rest of the afternoon. Something was not right.

Dr Stan, sitting at the end of the table with The Brothers had his afternoon catnap. Rivetting.

I fancied a walk to clear the lungs and get the body functioning again. Dr Stan is always good for a leg stretch. He opted for the tram. Is this a Dr Stan impersonator? Has our Dr Stan been kidnapped by Aliens? The Brothers were waiting for us at the Beer Tempel. The Flying Dog – Raging Bitch was the solitary sample. Time to move on, just the two of us. The Brothers were not seen again.

Arendsnest was only a few minutes walk, Amsterdam was now making sense to Hector. I have been coming to this city since I was eight years old. Visits as an adult have been sporadic.  I should know my way around the centre, I now do, again.

The Anne Franke House

Why did it take the Germans so long to find it?  The House is signposted everywhere!

More La Chouffe and the Templier Blond were ordered. The service was slow, really slow. What did the Doris think we were ding sitting at a table with no drinks infront of us? We had not brought a picnic.

The short hop to Belgique resulted in a shock. This tiny bar had ashtrays everywhere. Everyone was smoking inside. WTF? I ordered two Kwak, we sat on the bench in the lane supping our favourite Bier in the fresh air. The passers by looked on in amusement at out chemistry lab style glass and stand. We didn’t care, even though having secured the end of the barrel the Bier was decidedly cloudy. We planned the summer of 2013.

We rejoined the others at In de Wildeman. It was nearing Craig’s bedtime. A large Belgium IPA is what I got, it was not what I wanted. The Flying Dog had moved up the board, I had ordered by yesterday’s number. This was soon put righta and the night was polished off with another bottle of Schlenkerla Marzen. Now I had tasted this on draught at this pub when I was here with Marg some years back.

Posted in Amsterdam | Comments Off on Hector’s Holländisch Hootenanny, a Brugge too far – Day 8

Hector’s Holländisch Hootenanny, a Brugge too far – Day 7

Posted on July 27, 2011 by Hector

The move to Amsterdam and farwell to David and Neil. Hi, Tracey!

The delivery of the core of the group to the Ibis at Schipol marked the end of the Hectoring. Dr Stan and Robin are the designated Amsterdam experts they would be in the lad.

Dr Stan had disappeared, Jonathan had not reappeared, the Brothers had gone to check-in at their city centre hotel. Arendsnest was calling.

 

With Robin at the front of our group as we left Amsterdam Centraal, he complained that he was not starting from where he wished to begin. We headed in the general direction of Arendsnest but realised that we were too far north. By this time Howard and Hector were certainly the navigators, Robin had no idea where he was going.

With geometric precision, Howard and Hector delivered Craig, Yvonne and Robin to this very fine establishment. The choice of draught Bier was vast, Christoffel Blond could not be refused. Every year at the Paisley Beer Festival this Bier makes a very brief appearance.

Governeur Blond was followed by Hertog-Jan Weizener.

 

Time out

 Hector knew he needed food, having passed two Curry Houses he declined the move to the next planned venue the Beer Tempel. Instead, I sat peacefully, no longer in charge of the group and let them drift off into the unkown. Well Robin had no idea where he was going.

 The Namaskar Curry was certainly the best Curry of the trip, so far. Time to rendezvous at In de Wildeman. Dr Stan had not been in touch, time to track him down. He was away meeting up with his Bières Sans Frontières folk. He would meet up soon.

In de Wildeman is easy to find if you know where it is. Google maps had me in the vicinity but instinct was required for the final leg. I spotted Yvonne walking purposefully along the street, alone. She didn’t see me and so was startled when I blocked her path. She was out for a special purchase, the Chaps were in an adjacent Steak House. When I made my entrance they couldn’t believe I had found them. Hector can find anything, Arendsnest, Curry Houses, In de Wildeman.

The Brothers were sitting in the window area of the back room. Breugems Blond got the party underway. We moved to alrger table and when the rest of the Chaps arrived, eventually, Robin still could not find the place, we moved to the table we had occupied last January in front of the bar.

Dr Stan

Dr Stan was directed to In de Wildeman by Craig. Time had passed. Time was lost. Where else had Dr Stan been? Indeed, was the Chap who was with us actually Dr Stan?

Craig had spotted the Flying Dog 25th Anniversary Farmhouse IPA on the board. This was to be the Bier for the rest of the evening. Who says the Americans can’t make Bier? This dry, hoppy ale was a cousin of Jaipur, but with fiz.

Tracey

 Tracey was due to arrive at Schipol around 21.00. She was to be slightly delayed. Howard was in a quandary. When exactly should he leave to go out to meet her? Would Tracey want to go to the hotel straight away? Would she want to come back in to town at a time approaching when the rest of us would leave?

 Hector has a deep insight into the Psyche of women

 I had a wonderful solution. Jonathan had yet to show. He was at Schipol. Why does Howard not stay in the pub and fulfil his desire for more quality ale and let Jonathan meet Tracey off the plane? Sound logic. Craig and Yvonne tried to explain to me that this would not be an acceptable practice. Howard departed, he was back in a flash, or so it felt. Tracey had her luggage in tow, more homage could be paid to the magnificent Ale.

The night was finished wiht a bottle of  Bamberg’s finest: Schlenkerla Marzen, well I needed a pint.

 

 

 

 

Favourite Amsterdam Bier places:

In De Wildeman, ,  Kolksteeg 3

‘t Arendsnest,  Herengracht

Belgique,  Gravenstraat 2

The Beer Temple, Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 250.

‘t Ij Brouwerij,  Funenkade 7

Gollem,  Raamsteeg 4Wijnand Fockink,  Pijlsteeg 31

Posted in Amsterdam | Comments Off on Hector’s Holländisch Hootenanny, a Brugge too far – Day 7

Hector’s Holländisch Hootenanny, a Brugge too far – Day 6

Posted on July 26, 2011 by Hector

The return to Antwerp

Once the Chaps get to Kuliminator, they will never want to leave

If ever the was the sense of Déjà vu, all over again, it was the return to Antwerp.  Hector and Marg had made a pioneering visit back in February, today was a replica, and only the company has changed.  Craig and Yvonne decided that today was the day they would have to themselves, David thought likewise.

Les Freres took an alternate route and paid the price.  They were waiting for Dr Stan, Howard, Neil, Robin and Hector at Elfde Gebod, The Eleventh Commandment.  De Konink may have been the first Bier order of the day, it was the rather expensive Spag Bol which was uppermost in Hector’s mind.  This is a very tasty and more than adequate serving.  For once, Dr Stan followed my lead.  Is this really Dr Stan on this trip? Morte Subite Geuze kicked the taste buds back into action.

*

We marvelled at the surroundings, those of a certain persuasion may find this place offensive.  I think it is a hoot.  It is a pity Craig was not with us, one could have taken enough photos for a lifetime of blackmail.

Jonathan arrived later and left.  He concluded that getting ahead of the game at our next port of call would have him back in sync.

Jonathan was polishing off his lunch when the core group caught up with him at De Groote Witte Arend (White Eagle).  The much celebrated Hopus was the bier of choice.  Served with a short glass to capture the sediment, I put it back in the main glass.  Stop messing about.  This was a pit stop before the main event of the day.

Hector had phoned Kulminator before leaving Gent, this set the pace for the day.  Knowing they were open it was a case of arriving as soon as possible.  We did.  Dr Stan had gone walkabout.  Jonathan arrived later.  We were ensconced.

Gouden Carolus is not a Bier style I would normally go for, dark and sweet, however, I knew Hanssens Kriek was to follow.  Neil’s order was not available and so Doris recommended something else – Neil ordered this – blind!  Now this is a dangerous thing to do in an establishment which sell bottles of Bier at anything up to €295.

 

All Cats are Grey

Kulminator is famed for its cats.  One sat beside us, his seat, he wasn’t for moving.  Jonathan arrived, the cat stayed put.  Les Freres caught up with us, the cat was off…  Behold Dr Stan , if indeed it was him.

 Excess in moderation

 Affligrem’s Patersvavat concluded my visit, a very relaxed afternoon without excess.

 Kulminator must run ‘t Brugs Beerjte close as candidate for the best bar in Belgium.  Daisy still has the edge.  With the proprietors here clearly in their later years, one has to speculate as to what will happen when one of them becomes immortal.  This is very much a case of get yourself to Antwerp and enjoy this wonderful establishment whilst one can.

Meanwhile, back in Gent

 The Fest was over, the temporary constructions removed.  Gent was closed, well the Waterhuis was.  Craig and Yvonne had to wander around the Centrum in search of Bier.  This is what happens when people abandon the Hector Tour.

We went for a Curry-Heute at Salt n’ Pepper.

 Favourite Antwerp bars

Elfde Gebod, 10 Torfbrug
Groote Witte Arend, 18 Reyndersstrat
Kulminator, 32 Vleminckveld

Posted in Antwerp, Gent | Comments Off on Hector’s Holländisch Hootenanny, a Brugge too far – Day 6

Hector’s Holländisch Hootenanny, a Brugge too far – Day 5

Posted on July 25, 2011 by Hector

It is Red T-Shirt Day – We are off to see Daisy!

It is a relatively short hop from Gent to Brugge.  In the past, both have been covered in one day.  Today, with The Friends of Hector mostly resplendent in red t-shirts, it was to be the full Bhuna.

Those who bus, took the bus to the Centrum.  The majority walked into the old town.  We lost Robin.  He had told the man who never speaks to tell me that he had stopped for a sandwich.  The man who never speaks lived up to his title and the message was not relayed.  Robin was not a happy chap.  We found Robin wandering around the Maarkt.  He had found his way here, his navigational skills are astonishing.

Gambrinus was the rendezvous; Jonathan made it on a later train.  David went walkabout.  The prices did not appear as extreme as they did back in February when Hector and Marg first set foot on these premises.  We are now used to paying ridiculous sums of money for small quantities of Bier.

We all tried the Huisbier to start then Howard and Hector moved on to share a bottle of Cantillon Grand Cru.  Two grown men sharing one bottle, only in Belgium.

 We moved on to Garre, the tiny venue down a lane and up a steep internal stair.  Peter made it up, just.  Jonathan managed it too, but how to get them out?  Hector was straight in to his favourite Belgian Bier: Hanssens Kriek.  The complementary Cheese was served without Celery Salt, ah, Celery Salt.

We sat across three tables, Les Freres with Dr Stan and Neil.  The waiter was incredibly knowledgeable; he had total respect for Hector’s order.  Howard and Jonathan could not be left out and ordered the same for Bier 2.  I followed with the House bier ‘Garre’ just to shake them off.

 2be is more of a shop, but the Café at the rear is on a prime canal side site.  Perfect.  Draught Kwak amused me here in February, and as a creature of habit…  Craig and Yvonne ordered a bottle of Urthel’s Hop-It served in ice bucket and fan fare.  Robin had disappeared, I know where he went.

 We caught up with Robin at Daisy’s: ‘t Brugs Beerjte to give it the correct name.  This is accepted as being the best pub in Belgium, and Daisy herself had emailed me to assure me that the place would be open today.  Success!  We met a couple from Enschede, my opportunity of mentioning the Can Studio in the Rock Museum at Groningen.  They hadn’t been.

More Hanssens Kriek. Even Craig succumbed.  The driest, most sour Bier I have ever tasted.

Hector’s Timeout

 Having passed the Taj Mahal at lunchtime it was closed.  In February it had never opened.  One more chance of a Curry-Heute.

Back to Gent

 

Jonathan’s bus exploits caused him to miss the train.  We were back in Gent by 22.00, time for a Bier.  Being reduced to one favourite place, it was back to the Waterhuis and see the still on duty, Kathleen, she even permitted us a smile of recognition.  Us locals.

More Piraat, then I had to take Robin back through the mob.  Now the rock concert was right outside our hotel window.  A good time to write a Blog.

 

 

 

Favourite Brugge Bars

Bierbrasserie Gambrinus, Philipstockstraat 19

2be, Wollestraat 53

Staminne de Garre, de Garre 1

‘t Brugs Beertje, Kemelstraat 5, 8000

Posted in Brugge, Gent | Comments Off on Hector’s Holländisch Hootenanny, a Brugge too far – Day 5

Hector’s Holländisch Hootenanny, a Brugge too far – Day 4

Posted on July 24, 2011 by Hector

The Gent Days

The move to Gent

 €7.40 is all that it cost us to complete this journey using a splendid Belgian Rail pass. Anywhere in the country for this price.  Why do we get ripped off so much in public transport in the UK?

Tram 4 from Gent St Pieters to Kornmaarkt is what the Tin-Tinerary showed.  Tram 4 went all round the houses then dropped us off well short of our destination.  We soon found out why: we had arrived at the peak of the Gent Fest.  What Gent Fest?   There was a stage at the front of St Baafs Kathedral.  We were staying across the street, a late night was called for.

 

Het Waterhuis aan de Bierkant

 

The Waterhuis and Hopduvel are two of the four pubs Hector has set foot in at Gent, these were the attractions.    There was the lovely glass of Kriek last April during our Dunkirk-like retreat from Europe due to a certain Icelandic volcano.  Tonight, I would spend my first night in Gent.

 

With the hotel rituals completed we assembled at the Waterhuis, having made our way through the throng crowding the streets.  A jazz outfit were playing at the doorway, good, and more chance of a seat inside.  The lovely Kathleen served us at the bar in front of the bar, a great arrangement.  She despaired somewhat that we ordered and paid for our drinks separately, but then we might not all have been together. Oh, the t-shirts tend to give it away…

 

The place was mobbed, we slowly mustered two adjacent tables and so the party was underway.  Barbar Blond and Gandavum were the Biers of choice.

Then something happened that one cannot make up.  Jonathan was seen in conversation with a young enthusiast, Jeff turned out to be the Brewer at Steen Brugge.  We introduced ourselves, photos were taken and he then insisted in buying us Bier, three rounds he put up – ten Biers at a time.  The Waterhuis sold three of his Biers on draught: Augustijn Donker, Piraat, and Augustjn Blond.  He brewed them, he insisted we try them.  The Piraat impressed Hector most. We have been invited to the Steen Brugge Brewery on our next trip, this will happen.  Being honourable Scots we bought his group a round back.  Self respect.

 

Kaffee De Hopduvel

 From a quiet start in the midst of a Festival we were all now in Festive mood.  Time to leave.

Jonathan and Robin left after the main body by taxi to rendezvous with Dr Stan, David, Howard, Neil and myself across town at Hector’s favourite Gent watering hole.  Les Freres were there too, somehow.  My plan was to be last out of here one evening.

We arrived in the back street whose parallels with Coronation Street are uncanny.  This tiny façade gives way to a magnificent Tardis-like pub with an acre of Bier Garden out the back.  It was closed.  As in gone, forever…  I was not a happy old Hector.  Kathleen’s colleague would later reveal that the place had gone bust.

 What is a man to do?

 We went for a Curry-Heute!

 Meanwhile back in the Waterhuis

 

The streets were even busier than before.  People were arriving for a rock concert at Kornmaarkt around the corner.  Craig and Yvonne had stayed behind and were in conversation with a couple who kept them amused until it was Craig’s bedtime.  The night shift then arrived.  After the worst Curry of 2011 Hector was in the mood for more Bier.  La Chouffe’s Houblon, more Piraat and a local Wit Bier kept us amused. We stayed late, Hector was last off the premises.

Favourite Gent Bars

Het Waterhuis aan de Bierkant, Groentenmarkt 9
Kaffee De Hopduvel, Rokerelsstraat 10  (Closed)

Posted in Gent | Comments Off on Hector’s Holländisch Hootenanny, a Brugge too far – Day 4

Hector’s Holländisch Hootenanny, a Brugge too far – Day 3

Posted on July 23, 2011 by Hector

A day on the Choo-Choo

This was to be the sensible day.  A steam train journey in an obscure part of  South Belgium, Le Chemin de Fer du Bocq.  Ciney was the first port of call, there was nothing there.  We hung around waiting for the arrival of the locomotive.  The machine arrived on schedule and by that time Dr Stan and Hector had had reaslied that with Ciney a dead duck, we needed to achieve some Bier objective.  Rather than stay on the train to the end and come straight back (as David and Jonathan plus Les Freres did), we spotted an advert in the brochure for a decent stop-off at Spontin.

 The worst pub in Belgium

 The Comptoir de Famille, now there is a name Hector will never forget.  Neil, Robin, Dr Stan, Craig, Yvonne and Hector entered the premises just after 14.00.  Twenty minutes later, two of us still did not have a drink.  Three of us nearly ended up with the wrong drink.  There was a Gauloise available on tap.  The young waitress went off and poured three Pils, the worst Bier on the planet IMHO.  Howard intervened.  The Ambre Ale arrived.  Craig had ordered a bottle, it was presented off the shelf, warm, with no apology.  We ordered some Cheese, Olives and Sausage, they never came.  We reckoned in the nintety minute slot we could still conceivably acquire another Bier.

Here we go again

I asked for a Gauloise Blond: ‘Maes?’  Now, how can you hear Maes when one says Gauloise.  Howard desired a Hoegarden variant, Les Fruits de….  ‘Oh, lay ffffrrrrrooooeeee,di….’  Come on.

Craig was given another warm Bier

The young Doris kept writing the order on Bier mats, can she not read her own writing?  Does she keep loosing the Bier mats?

One of Les Freres arrived, no chance.  I went up to the counter to get the bill.  I stood the for two minutes, the three staff ignored me, totally. ‘Am I invisible?’ I said in a loud enough voice to the room. I finally asked the young chap for ‘L’addition s’il vous plait.’  ‘Pardon?’ he replied.  WTF?  I may as well as asked him for direction s to Milngavie via Bo’ness for all the difference it made.  The staff simply were not paying attention.  The music was crap too, and far too loud for a daytime cafe.

We had amassed what we expected to pay.  The bill included three Pils, Olives and Sausage.  Neil came up to the counter with Hector.  Hector would speak more French.

‘Ceci c’est vrai, ceca n’est pas!’    Hector speaks great French on paper.  The young Doris was not up for any argument, she took what we gave her. As we left the first adult appeared, was he in charge of this complete fiasco?  If so, train your staff!

 ‘Good luck!’ was my farewell comment, I felt like Gestapo agent addressing Gordon Jackson in some film whose name escapes me…

 Joined up timetables

 There was a fifty minute wait for the train back to Namur, of course there was.  The station cafe was closed.  The Guy Brasserie  was open.    Good on them.  A cleric occupied the only large table, were eleven again, he moved on.

The most efficient barman in Southern Belgium took our order.  With no note taking, elven assorted Les were presented timeoulsy and accurately.  We were back in a real establishment.

More Karmeliet Tripel?  I must like it.  There was a temptation to stay another hour, but Namur, Curry and Le Chapitre were calling.

The Taj Mahal, Namur’s almost competent Curry House was the intended venue.  Arriving too early (17.30) we had to retire to the Thai Cafe once more  It was Hector’s turn for the Rochefort 8.  The  never ending Cheese covered in the superb Celery Salt was a treat.  Celery Salt will feature strongly in Hector’s cooking from now on.  I hope it complements Za’atar.

Le Chapitre, our local

Craig, Yvonne and Robin were wrapping up their day when the newly invigorated night shift arrived.  Three days in and we were wondering who the tall guy was who keeps following us around. He looked like Dr Stan, answered to Dr Stan, this guy was so horizontal it couldn’t possibly be him.  One of Les Freres had retired, the silent one was still with us.  Neil and Hector were the two most sensible people left.  More La Chouffe, Saison Dupont, Guildenberg and finally a Delirium Tremens to complete the night.  This is long, very slow consumption.  One feels one spends so long over some Biers, despite their strength, the effects of the previous ones have worn off.

St Bernardus has proved to Neil and Dr Stan’s nemesis.  A couple of locals turned up with musical instruments, jazz violin and acoustic guitar kept us amused for a good hour.  Neil and Hector took the straight route home.

So, it appears exactly 100 photographs have gone for a burton…

Ciney (Spontin) Bars

Comptoir de Famille, Chaussée de Dinant 25, ,5530, Spontin

Guy Brasserie, Pl Vandervelde 4, 5590, Ciney

Posted in Ciney (Spontin), Namur | Comments Off on Hector’s Holländisch Hootenanny, a Brugge too far – Day 3

Hector’s Holländisch Hootenanny, a Brugge too far – Day 2

Posted on July 22, 2011 by Hector

A day trip Liege : Le  Vaudrée

Crossing Belgium in a hurry one Saturday afternoon early in the 2000s, I was taken to Le Vaudrée at Angleur, a suburb of Liege.  This pub famously then, never closed.  It also sells a magnificent range of Bier.  A day trip to Liege was there conceived just to visit this pub.  This was a day when Craig would be permitted to put his feet firmly under the table.

To celebrate the moment when I first tasted La Chouffe, and on draught, I made this my aperitif.  Kwak was the concluding drink.  By now I am realising that I am not really trying anything outlandish, there is still lots of time.

Dr Stan, knowledgeable as ever despite this being his first trip here, strode off to Le Petit Vaudrée along the end of the same street.  The company was split, Jonathan and Neil joined him.  We caught up and the party began again.  Karmeliet Tripel was the Bier of choice for Les Autres, my turn to try it, wonderful.  Another Blond, Judas became the partner, it was a pity we felt the need to move on.

I hate when one is just getting in the mood and someone suggests we have to move on, oh, that was me.

 Back in the city

Le Vaudrée 2 is in what may be downtown Liege, I had never set foot anywhere in Liege apart from Angleur prior to today.  The first taxi of the trip took the seven of us.  Two had already ventured onwards and awaited our presence.  Spag Bol was the main event here, we needed to eat.  Another draught Karmeliet Tripel was the accompaniment.

 Hector’s tours come into their own, at last

With a closed Cantillon and the Airport Transfer cock-up, this was the first day that everything had gone to plan.  We needed a train back to Liege St Guillemins to guarantee our connection back to Namur.  We were two stops down the line and so jumped on the first train back.  Alighting at the main station, we looked at the board, we had just got off our train, perfect.  Back on.  Songs should be sung about this.

There is a distinct lack of photos for this day, this puzzle is one yet to be solved.

Meanwhile back in Namur

Le Chapitre

 This proved to be the best of the three pubs of Namur that were on the recommended list.  Occasional loud music, a decent barman and a good range of Bier.

Hector struggled with a small draught La Chouffe, the Spag Bol was doing its job.  Robin, Craig and Yvonne went back to the hotel, or walkabout as we discovered later.  David arrived and kept Jonathan company through the small hours.  The nightcap was a very easy to put away Boon Kriek.  Howard and Hector took the direct route back to the Ibis.

Liege Bars

Le Vaudrée ,109 rue du Val Benoit, Angleur, Liege, Belgium 4031

Le Petit Vaudrée, 182, Rue Vaudrée 4031 Angleur (Liège)

Le Vaudrée 2, Rue Saint-Gilles, 149, Liège, 4000

Posted in Liege, Namur | Comments Off on Hector’s Holländisch Hootenanny, a Brugge too far – Day 2

Hector’s Holländisch Hootenanny, a Brugge too far – Day 1

Posted on July 21, 2011 by Hector

The Namur Days

This is officially the first day of the 2011 trip organised by Hector.
The theme for this year’s Hector’s Horrible Holidays is Hector’s Holländisch Hootenanny, a Brugge too far. All will become clear in the next ten days, or will it become a blur?

Day 0

As Howard would say, more than once: ‘It was a dark and stormy night, it was raining cats and dogs, there was poodles everywhere…’  Well, this would have been a happier start to the summer trip of 2011.  Arriving on schedule at Charleroi, Hector went looking for the driver of our Transfer to Namur.  There was no Java Coffee shop as the printout stated, this is is BRU – the main Brussels Airport I was told.  Hector is not that stupid, he cannot have booked us into the wrong Airport, but no, the price would have been astronomical and the printout clearly said Charleroi.  I phoned the emergency contact, the most useless Doris answered.  Why does everyone not speak perfect English?  ‘What is your other name?’ she kept asking me.  What other name, I had already identified myself, booking reference too.  ‘Your booking was for the twentieth of June!’  I looked again at the printout, she was correct, I hung up.

There were disbelieving looks from The Friends of Hector.  A major cock-up to my total embarrassment.    21.00 came and went.

Outside we negotiated a taxi at twice the cost of what the pre-paid Transfer had been.  I had just blown €60.  Wait until I get home and check my records.

At Namur we were all round the houses due to a fun fair blocking a street,  The Ibis Hotel, Rue de Lanciers, Namur.   Ten minutes later we were back out on the street looking for Bier.

Le Phare was opposite, in we went.  Out we came, crowded and smoky, this will not do.  The next place had no smoking signs up, people were smoking, out again.  The third place looked more promising but the chairs were being put on the tables, fermee.

 

We ended up at The Thai  Cafe (Rue Nameche) which was just behind the Ibis.  Having wandered the streets of Namur in the increasing darkness and with sporadic showers, Hector was wondering what sort of place he had brought his charges to for four nights.

 Bier was negotiated with what turned out to be a charming African lady whose English improved as we became more daring with our French.  Hector had a Kriek, a slightly alcoholic Cherry Lemonade to start.  Others were straight into the Rochefort.

 Doris asked what we were looking for:’ Bier sans fumeurs.’ I replied.  ‘Mais tous es Brasseries sont non fumeurs, c’est les regles!’  I could be wrong, but this is rare, apparently on July 1st, all of Belgium went non-smoking.  ‘Telephonez les Agents!’ was my reply.  In February of this year smoking was not an issue in the places Marg and I visited, but these all sold food.

A wandering we shall go

 With itinerary in hand we set off looking for one of the three listed venues.  The Cave de Bieres is opposite the Station.  A crowd at the door communicated the fact that the smoking regulations were in place.  In we go…  the music blared, the place was full of weans… the draught Biers were studied, difficult because the taps were not all labelled.  There was a decent array of Bier in the fridge.  The barman served someone else and ignored the fact that eight people had just entered the premises.  The phone rang, he answered it… we left.

 Bouffon du Roi

With greater familiarity with the map and the streets we found our way down Rue Godfroid to Rue de Bruxelles and our next port of call.  There was still music, loud on occasion, but this would be home for what was left of the evening.

Robin and Hector shared a reasonably priced, for Belgium, 75cl bottle of La Chouffe.  This is Hector’s favourite Blonde Belgian Bier and will feature strongly in this trip.  When I find on on draught there will be no holding me back.  We stayed for another round by which time we were all drinking La Chouffe or its darker brother McChouffe.  The door was locked; we were asked if we wanted more drink.  A lock in!  Superb!  We declined, finished up and went home to sleep.  Tomorrow is the official start of the Hootenanny.

Day 1

Le Weekend, well so it said on the ticket to Brussel, home of Tin-Tin, Belgium’s most famous person.  €8 return, better than I anticipated.  It was at the rendezvous with Jonathan and Dr Stan in Bruxelles Midi that we found it that today is a national holiday: Cantillon is closed!  The itinerary had yet again fallen short of expectation.  Neil had by now given it the title to which it will henceforth be identified: The Tin-Tinary.

BlackBerry Way

The resurrected BlackBerry revealed a memo relating to Moeder Lambic, just up from Brussel Sud.  Minutes later we we there.  46 Bier taps!  Yes, 46!

Hector’s first choice was a Cantillon Kriek variant, my first ever Cantillon on draught.  The 0.25 portion did not last and it was soon into the classic Cantillon Geuze.

The Chaps were each satisfying their personal preferences. Dr Stan and Hector had one major preference, not to sit here all day and disintegrate. Craig was finally convinced that there were other pubs in Brussel which might sell decent Bier.

We became tourists momentarily as we walked through the Grand Place in the drizzle.  The forecast for the rest of this trip was poor.

*

The classic Bier house, Morte Subite was the next port of call.  In 1997 the close proximity of the seating which probably has not changed since the place opened some ninety years ago, and the smoke, did not make this place so appealing.  With the dawn of Belgium’s enlightenment the place deserves its classic status.

The Morte Subite Kriek and St. Feullien Grand Cru were my imbibements.  Once again we knew we had to leave.  Such are the limitations of a one day tour.

Dr Stan and Jonathan had arrived in Brussel the night before and had spent some time in Delirium Tremens, a new student and tourist attraction.

La Chouffe’s Houblon was the Bier Jonathan insisted I try.  Getting served was another issue.  There was a single Doris trying to serve an entire bar with about twenty people waiting to be served.  It was not her fault she had been left to this.  Wetherspoons and their lack of staff and service came to mind.  She objected to Hector waiving his cash, it worked, I was served.

Two half litres of this ever so modest unfiltered/hoppy version of one of my favourite Belgian Biers,  Howard had the other, then it was his round.  This set us up for the day.

*

*

*

The Puppet Theatre

Toone is a hoot.  Dr Stan, Al and Hector had a very late session there one evening back in 2003 and this was after a day trip to Koln.  Draught Kwak is the attraction, served in the unique wooden stand, this Ambre Ale may be out of sorts with the style of Bier Hector normally consumes, but it is sheer perfection.

Some of the group did not make it this far.  Some of us went back to Namur from Centraal, after a walk in the rain.  Some found the Nord station instead.  We all returned to Namur by different trains, Hector went for the first Curry-Heute of the trip.  Somewhere in all this Les Freres arrived.  One spoke without a pause for twenty minutes, the full Duracell effect, the other said nothing.  This would be the feature of the next eight days.

Namur Bars

Cafe Thai, Rue de Nameche

Bouffon Du Roi, 60 Rue de Bruxelles

Chapitre 1, Place du Chapitre

Cave a Bieres, 68 Rue Godfroid

Our favourite Brussel’s outlets

Moeder Lambic, 8 Place de Fontainas

Cantillon, 56 Rue Gheude

Morte Subite, 7 Rue Montagne

Falstaff, 17 Rue Henri Maus

Toone, Impasse Schuddeveld and the Impasse Sainte Pétronille

Cafe Delirium, Impasse de la Fidélité 4A

Posted in Brussel, Namur | Comments Off on Hector’s Holländisch Hootenanny, a Brugge too far – Day 1

One day in Berlin

Posted on July 13, 2011 by Hector

The perfect end to a Greek vacation…

Prior to the reported and impressive Curry-Heute at the Naveena Path, Hector and Marg had done the tourist thing. This did involve the most expensive of coffees, by volume, at the Hotel Maritim on Friedrichstrasse. Hector’s reward for his patience was the lack of protest at suggesting we stop off at the Maximillian Brauhaus further down the same street towards Checkpoint Charlie. This is a Bayerische style outlet, or Paulaner Haus to be more precise.

Paulaner Helles und Dunkels

A half litre of Paulaner Helles (VF) was a welcome sight. After two weeks of drinking cold, yellow, fizzy Greek offerings, it was wonderful to actually taste a Bier. Paulaner is of course cold, yellow and perhaps not so fizzy. Hector was home.

Marg was halfway though her Apfelschorle when the Dunkels was mooted. Everyone else appeared to be drinking the Dunkels, so not wishing to be left out, one was ordered up.

To drink a dark Bier after a light one is always refreshingly different. This too disappeared in very quick time. One would think I hadn’t seen Bier for weeks, well in reality, I hadn’t.

Berlin’s finest Hausbräuerei

 Eschenbräu (Triftstraße 67, 13353 Berlin-Wedding) is not the sort of venue which relies on passing trade. Wedding is a few stops north of the centre the area is not that attractive. It is improving by the year, though whether one would feel totally safe walking around here on one’s own is another matter. The Brauhaus is located in the basement of a fairly modern block of flats. In the summer months, most people sit outside in what effect is the back court area of the flats. The ambience is superb as the sun sets and fades to twilight. The subliminal lighting in the trees then leaves one forgetting that the neighbours could be watching.

 The Bier at Eschenbräu has improved markedly in recent visits. Last year we were over for the Berlin Biermeile and ended each night back here drinking the truly superb Weizen Bock. They claimed, wrongly, that it is the only Weizen Bock brewed in Germany. We listed a few and put the Brewer right. Yes, we met the Braumeister! Could this be on again?

The normal Weisse was available, this month’s Spezial was a Rote Bier. As Hector established the situation with the Doris serving from the small hut in the garden, two Chaps spotted my Czech polo shirt and called me – … a Bier Guru. Nice to be recognised. A third Chap asked me from which house it was from, he had never seen it. This was the key moment of the evening.

Weizen Hell

 The Weisse Bier poured like milk. The yeast hung in the glass and settled more slowly than I have ever witnessed. I have seen globules of yeast sink rapidly to the base of the glass, this was a new experience. Now Hector tends to restrict his Weissbier intake these days. The party of the late 1990’s is well and truly over. This went down so easily. It was perfect. The kick of the Bock was obviously not there, but one knew there would be more.

 I came for one, Gunter came for two, we had three

 The Chap who had spoken to me last joined the adjacent table. It was clear he was ready to chat. This would please Marg no end. Gunter, no ‘h’, is a teacher of English. He is an avid reader of fiction and only reads in the English language. He particularly enjoys Scotland’s own Ian Rankine. We inevitably discussed the consumption of Bier. ‘How did you find this place?’ I had to admit that this was in fact my fifth visit to Eschenbräu and that I had been taken the first time. That we have stayed in Wedding in recent visits has not been totally coincidental.

Gunter has not been to all of the Bamberg houses, shame. The Bier Houses of Koln and Dusseldorf were rhymed off. There was a consensus that apart from our present location, the Biers of Berlin are not all that great.

 Hector had spotted the Brewer arrive on his bike whilst Marg took the ritual photograph at the entrance. He appeared suddenly and whispered in Gunter’s ear. Gunter was straight on the phone…

Yir tea’s ready

 I understood enough of the conversation to know that the lady on the other end of the phone was wondering why her Beau was not home for his tea. Indeed, Gunter may have been sent out for the ingredients. The ground was set, the third Bier was approved.

New décor

 Prior to our departure I checked out the facilities. One still feels that one is in the basement of a flat and a local could emerge from any door at any time. The main room has been expanded appreciably. There is also a new laminate floor. No longer does the house feel like a bunker. Business must be booming, and no wonder with the quality of the Bier served.

 Marg thoroughly enjoyed her third visit to Eschenbräu

Off to Hackerschermarkt

 

 

 

 

 

We went looking for the reported Andechs Haus. With Hector’s technology now subsiding the declining Greek economy, he was unable to establish the locus. The rain was back. Time to get indoors. Lemke Hausbraueri was the only place which appeared to have any Bier of distinction.

Zwickel Bier

 Not the wonderful Bier served at Konigsbacher, Koblenz. This was another example of micro breweries still being unable to make a Bier that doesn’t taste home-made.

After five visits in as many years, Hector should know better.

 

Posted in Berlin | Comments Off on One day in Berlin

A night out in Crawley

Posted on June 27, 2011 by Hector

The first part of the summer vacation, proper

Yes, Hector and Marg sped back from Yorkshire, repacked their bags, and the very next day headed back to England.  This time the aeroplane took the strain.  Mr Stelios had brought our flights forward, nice chap.  This meant we were in Crawley in good time to go for a Curry-Heute and some Biers before flying out to Santorini at an unearthly hour the next day.
The Downsman (Wakehurst Drive, Southgate, Crawley, West Sussex, RH10 6DH) has been spoken about by Lord Clive for some time.  It is the pub closest to his home, but not his local.  For Curry-Heute purposes, Hector would challenge the logic in this.
Lady Maggie was not available and so Debs was brought in to balance the numbers.  She was out for the Curry only and did not go on to The Swan afterwards.

Wychwood’s (Witney, Oxfordshire) Hobgoblin at 4.5% was the Ale of choice to set the evening going.  Why is this Bier available in bottles in a stronger version?  The reality is, when Curry is available, Hector is not that interested in Bier, and so I switched to something, cold, yellow and fizzy afterwards.  Given what faces me in Greece in the next 15 days…

And so to The Swan

Most of the Ales Hector has supped in Crawley over the years have been at The Swan (Horsham Road, West Green, Crawley, West Sussex, RH11 7AY).

Dark Star’s (Brighton) Hophead at 3.8% was a relatively gentle start.  Despite its light strength it packs more flavour than many Ales at this strength.  One always hopes for the American Pale Ale, but then that is why we go to the Evening Star (Brighton) whenever the chance presents.

Titanic’s (Stoke-on-Trent) Nautical Mild at 4.8% was a step up and a way of saying farewell to Ale.  There will be nothing like this downed in Greece, unless I manage to get to a certain Craft Brewery in Athens.


It was an early night.

 

 

Posted in Crawley, West Sussex | Comments Off on A night out in Crawley