Seven February Days in Lisboa 2020 – Day 1

Posted on February 2, 2020 by Hector

Hector was up before the 03.45 alarm, such is the way of ridiculously early rises. Mr. O’Leary was taking Hector, Marg, Steve & Louise to Lisboa for a week. A week is a long time to spend in any city, four days is usually seen as enough. We were assured that there would be plenty to see and do.

There was a sprint to the departure gate at Edinburgh Airport, once boarded, we were told there would be an hour’s delay due to fog over Lisboa. It made for a pretty picture as we descended – Ponte Vasco da Gama. The airport arrival hall was confusing, could we really go in opposite directions? We could see those in the queue to get airside, it looked horrendous. Fortunately, despite having left the EU, our electronic passports let us through in minutes. To the metro, simples. Travelling in Lisboa is outlined – here.

A noon check-in to our apartment was arranged, or so I thought. On arrival at the agency we were told otherwise. Having paid in advance we were still hit with €28.00 city tax then a €9.00 locker fee. I will not be using – Feel’s Like Home again.

Free of luggage for the moment, it was time to get the holiday underway. The walk down Avenue da Liberdade instantly impressed, this was quite a boulevard. Behold a statue, Vasco da Gama, surely, nope. Continuing downhill, Hector always gets his bearings in a new place by heading towards the river, we entered Praça do Rossio. 19ºC, heavenly, photos at the fountain.

We wandered through the narrow streets beyond with restaurants aplenty, no prices on the menus. Arco da Rua Augusta came into view, it would be even more imposing from the – right – side. Praça do Comércio, Cais das Colunas, if this is Lisbon, I like it.

We stood at the waterfront looking back inland, Castelo de Sao Jorge loomed over the city. Marg, we’re going there tomorrow.

Marg was hungry, when the lady is hungry she has to be fed, Curry can wait. We left the obviously expensive venues behind and found Allchiado, a back street – Portuguese Restaurant. It was strange finding a – Portuguese – restaurant in Portugal, in India we never saw an – Indian Restaurant.

A Fish Wrap sounded like something local, Marg stuck with Salad. Marg wanted Bread, Bread was ordered, she tore in. The Salad was huge, it sat on the same bread used in the Wrap, too much Bread. The Fish Wrap was so filling, tasty, Hector cannot have too much Fish these days.

With bags collected it was time to locate the apartment. Google Maps took us up the hillside beside the funicular – Elevador da Glória. This was insane, we weren’t ticketed, had we bought a day ticket we would have been. Our apartment was metres off Rua do Loreto, yet Google Maps insisted we do a loop around the top of the other funicular – Ascensor da Bica. How many hills? How hot was it now? We found the apartment, five floors up, no lift. I will not be staying at – Santa Catarina’s Jewel over Tagus – apartment again.

The apartment was fine once we were in it. It was Hector who volunteered to go out and negotiate supplies. Five floors up, this is not going to get any easier.

After a – wld – it was time to hit the street. Cervejaria Artesanal Adamastor just happened to be next door, I never know how this happens.

The Bier list had two possibilities, this soon became one. Marg had a Coke, my second drink was white wine, that says a lot about the Bier choices.

Note the facial expressions for before and after.  If the prices here were representative of Lisboa, this would be an expensive week.

We walked down the route of Ascensor da Bica and walked the short distance thereafter to Crafty Corner. Here was a proper array of Bier and at better prices. Steve and Louise were summoned, the party began.

Eventually we reached – Milkshake IPA Mango (Mag8, Sintra, Portugal) at 7.0%, a perfect Bier. Food was ordered, the staff engaged, this was a pub. I knew we would be back here, but this was day one, what lies beyond?

*

*

Around 21.00 it became sensible to leave, else I would still be there. An extra helpful barman suggested more venues. It was uphill all the way to Duque Brewpub until we reached the steps down. Yes, this venue is on a stairway.

The Bier may not have been as sensational but we were made welcome, an invitation to the brewing plant in the rear was granted, Bier discussed. Again, a place one would wish to return to.

Some were tired, Hector had his second wind, nae chance, home. Before negotiating the five flights of stairs, again, there were the chaps selling illegal substances both en route and at the corner of our street. They soon got the message, still, a good night of Bier & Food.

The venues visited today:

Allchiado – Rua Nova do Almada 66, 1200-289 Lisboa

Cervejaria Artesanal Adamastor – Rua Mal. Saldanha 13, 1200-069 Lisboa

Crafty Corner  –  Tv. Corpo Santo 15, 1200-182 Lisboa

Duque Brewpub  –  Calçada do Duque 51, 1200-156 Lisboa

on to – Seven February Days in Lisboa – Day 2

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Four Summer Nights in Cagliairi – 2019

Posted on July 15, 2019 by Hector

Cagliari was the final leg of our ten days in Sardegna, 2019. The four nights in the metropolis were presumably going to be the highlight, alas, we found ourselves to be there – out of season. Too many bars were closed for the summer, June until early September is not the time to visit if one is on a Bier trip. Our four nights in Sassari therefore remain the highlight. Despite there being less to see and do in Sassari, two days trips to nearby Alghero made this a much more fulfilling experience. Cagliari wasn’t bad, it just could have been better.

Things did get off to a good start, however, with a very fine Aloo Gobi served at Namaste Indian Tandoori Food  which we visited twice. The architecture of the city felt so Italian. The buildings along the front with their covered walkways could have been in Milano. 

The steep hill up to the the Castello and Bastione Saint Remy was well worth the climb.  The views from the top both gave us our bearings and motivated us to head out to the nature reserves at a later time.

Heading out for our first Bier, we found Hop Corner closed.  This was the eve of Robin’s birthday.  Hop Conno – would have appreciated the gesture. The next port of call was Papagyo Pub Birreria  who only had a Peroni lager variant. Hector was after more hops. 

Those we had talked about Bier matters in Sassari had all recommended Old Square, that it turned out be a pseudo Irish Bar came as an unwelcome surprise. The Bier range was decidedly – Mainstream – Paulaner Weizen became the Bier of choice. This was not the house of – IPA – that had been promised. I did note the day of our first visit – July 12th. Old Square  became a starting point each evening, that the last days of Wimbledon were being shown was also an attraction.

Birrificio Gattarancio is one of three Brewpubs in Cagliari, the other two are out of the city centre and according to Google, do not open until the evening. Google were proving to be totally unreliable in the naming and timings for Bier venues. We were not heading out of town of an evening to find nothing open.

Our first night in Birrificio Gattarancio was a very pleasant experience, good food, good Bier. Ironically, the Hoppola IPA at 6.6% was brewed by a rival Sardinian brewery – Birrificio Artignale Domusnovas – Spantu. Whilst this had the taste of US hops, it was not a world beater, but was a good start to the four nights in Cagliairi.

It looked as if Birrificio Gattarancio could become our local, the next night we sat at the bar having eaten already, there seemed no point in going upstairs. The house Rose Saison at 6.5% was suitably – sour. Marg had asked for a glass of white wine. On being told that they only had red, Marg declined this. The barman simply ignored us for the remainder of our visit. No alternative, drink was forthcoming. Whoever the people were sat beside us at the bar were, they clearly had the attention of the barman to the exclusion of all others. This was one of the most ignorant displays we have ever encountered.

Even more annoying was that we had already established that the nearby – il Bierkeller – aka – Bierkeller da Hans – was closed until September. On subsequent nights we went to Il Bartigiano and Beer Garden, again no sign of life. The – Underground Pub – must have been well and truly buried, at least we did find the Tripla B Pub, closed, of course!

The pursuit of other activities in daytime proved to be more fruitful.  Curry was had on three of the four lunchtimes.

The only non-Curry lunch was Seafood Pasta at Antica Cagliari  which turned out to be a wonderful discovery. Our guide who took us to the excavations at Nora,  had described the locus where people lunch.  This was a random selection thereafter, what a venue.

Grannie – was near to our hotel, we had passed it a few times. Coffee and cake of an afternoon is how to keep Marg amused, and payback for tolerating Hector’s insistence on visiting Curry Houses.

Our second day covered the Botanic Gardens – Orto Botanico – and the Roman Amphitheatre – Anfiteatro Romano di Cagliari. Near to the Botanic Gardens is a cafe where Marg had to pose under the canopy, an old story. The gardens were fine, the amphitheatre had restricted access.  We saw it, little more.

Thereafter we took the Metro out to the nature reserve but still found ourselves too far away to see the flamingos.  The trip to Nora again passed other wildlife locations but even with our driver slowing down, no decent photos.

We tried a new pub every night, Spillaus, Bierbaum 1599 beer&burger, Francis Drake & One Time, however, one venue stood out. Birroteca al Merlo Parlante may have been quiet on most of our visits, but the staff were always welcoming and a decent IPA was guaranteed.

Gaina IPA (Birrificio Lambrate, Milano, Italia) at 6.0% with 60 IBU has been enjoyed firstly in Berlin, then at Source and this year at BNO in Sassari. This proved to be the most consumed Bier over our ten nights in Sardinia.

The Brewpub, bars and restaurants and cafes visited:

Birrificio Gattarancio  –  Viale Trieste, 86, 09123 Cagliari CA

Birroteca al Merlo Parlante  –  Via Porto Scalas, 69, 09123 Cagliari CA

Old Square  –  Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 44, 09124 Cagliari CA

Bierbaum 1599 beer&burger  –  Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 144, 09124 Cagliari

Spillaus  –  Vico Vittorio Emanuele II, 09124 Cagliari CA

Papagyo Pub Birreria  – Via Savoia, 1, 09124 Cagliari CA

Francis Drake & One Time –  Via Oristano, 8/10, 09127 Cagliari CA

Grannie  –  Via Francesco Crispi, 21, 09124 Cagliari CA

Il Vulcano Buono  –  Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 226, 09123 Cagliari CA

Antica Cagliari  –  Via Sardegna, 49, 09124 Cagliari CA

Namaste Indian Tandoori Food  –  63, Via Barcellona, 09124 Cagliari CA

Tandoori (Angioy) –  Via Giovanni Maria Angioy, 25, 09124 Cagliari CA

Bars located and closed for the summer

Hop Corner Birreria  –  Via Principe Amedeo, 14, 09124 Cagliari CA

Bierkeller da Hans  –  Viale Trieste, 14, 09124 Cagliari CA

Il Bartigiano  –  Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 337, 09127 Cagliari CA

Beer Garden  –  Via Giovanni Maria Angioy, 49, 09124 Cagliari CA

Tripla B Pub  –  Via Goffredo Mameli, 92, 09127 Cagliari CA

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Corsica – Two Nights in Ajaccio

Posted on July 5, 2019 by Hector

The background to this holiday is given in the drop-down information above: Corsica – Ajaccio.

Arriving yesterday morning, a Sunday, 09.30, at Aeroport Ajaccio Napoleon Bonaparte,  Marg and Hector were in no hurry to get to the Ibis Budget. A noon check-in was guaranteed, earlier had been asked for. Google Maps had the next scheduled bus to Ajaccio town at 10.30 with a caveat. Google admitted to not being accurate. The airport information desk confirmed a No. 8 Bus at 10.00. It arrived punctually.

A couple in front of us got off the bus temporarily, muttering that the fare was €10.00, they had found €4.70 online. Already I had established that the only reliable information about Corsica travel arrangements is what one gathers on the ground. Hopefully, my writings will highlight the successes and pitfalls as our six days here develop.

Dropped at the train station, one might have expected other buses to pull in here. The main road was up a flight of stairs. Google Maps suggested Bus No.3 would take us most of the way to the Ibis Budget. The bus came on schedule according to the bus stop display. The flat fare of €1.00 was paid. Dropping us at Porto Giovonni, we walked the last part, ten minutes in the rising temperature. There’s no need to describe our appearance on arriving at the hotel.

I had asked for an even earlier check-in, an email on my phone suggested 11.00 would be possible, the chap on the desk wasn’t having it. Just before noon we were given the code to the room.

Armed with the timetable for the No. 4 Bus, which passed the hotel, we set off to discover Ajaccio. Cardo was the nearest stop, uphill from the Ibis. Marg was already walking down to the Pointe de Budiccione roundabout. A No. 4 Bus was parked at the bus stop. A sign on the roadside said – temporary terminus. Had we gone up to – Cardo – we would have missed the bus and been faced with the hour walk to town.

When the bus turned off what we knew to be the main street, we jumped off. Hello, Ajaccio.

The flowers on the edge of De Gaulle Square caught the eye. A passing Canadian couple took our first photo together of the trip. They were off a cruise ship and were looking for the statues of Napoleon. This was the first we encountered, Napoleon and his four brothers.

Having looked along the coastline, it was time for lunch. Breakfast at Gatwick felt so long in the past. We found a narrow lane with a line of restaurants. The plan was to snack now, dine later. The menu in each restaurant suggested they were not having this – The Full Monty – or nothing. Having toured the surrounding blocks it was back to the lane. Too late, at 15.00 they were no longer serving. Welcome to Ajaccio.

We headed to the marina, A Vista welcomed us in. Linguine and Mussels, how could Hector resist? Marg found – Samosa – on the Menu, albeit Goat’s Cheese Samosa. There are reportedly no – Indian Restaurants – on Corsica. This was just a wind up.

The Linguine with Mussels was outstanding. Fit enough to blog on Curry-Heute?

The MSC Seaview dominated the harbour. I looked it up, over five thousand passengers. That is a heck of a lot of people to invade a town. Some had stayed aboard, the zip-wire proving to be a greater attraction than Ajaccio.

Walking on, we found – Casa Bonaparte. The throng outside was off-putting, perhaps another day. The Citadel looked imposing, donkeys were tethered in the moat. Marg was in her element. There was no public access to – The Citadel.

Welcome to Ajaccio.

Bier O’clock

Sources had given up two Craft Beer venues in Ajaccio: Microbrasserie Imperiale reportedly not open until Wednesday, and Brasserie L’Alba, closed today. There was no choice but to pick one of the many cafes. Brasserie Du Port had two taps, both Pietra (Furiani) the Corsican Brewery. Doris asked if I wanted – small, large or really large – as she mimed a litre glass. I asked for – a large Ambree. 0.25l came. Ah well, just have to sip it then.

At 6.0% this was not too shabby, an Amber Ale. It was – Dry – with no nasty after-taste. If this is what I would be sentenced to drink in Corsica, then so be it. The price, however, was absurd.

In what was certainly the focal point of Ajaccio, we saw Statue #2 of Napoleon. One can never have enough statues of the Emperor. Soon we found ourselves outside – Casa Bonaparte – once again. They were closing, I sneaked a photo.

*

Ah! What’s this? Microbrasserie Imperiale, and it was open!

The younger of the two chaps on duty showed me the Bier List. Four, but they only had two of these on, no IPA for Hector. The 5.0% Bionda was so much better than than the Pietra, and cheaper. Not much of this was going to touch the sides. Gold in colour, with a slight chill haze, this Blond was again suitably – Dry – and lacked the hops an IPA might have possessed.

I had to try the darker 6.0% Bionda. This lacked the bite despite having much more body. Hector had found his Ajaccio Bier.

Usually it’s Marg who fades first, tonight it was Hector’s turn. More Bier-Today would have been silly. Marg wanted to eat having – snacked – earlier. I ordered a taxi to take us home. There are no Urban Buses after 19.30. We were driven past the tavernas at the marina, how quiet, peaceful. Marg thought we would have headed back there. €15.00 and we were back at the Ibis, actually, the adjacent Buffalo Grill.

As – American – as a – Diner – can be, and a Menu featuring the food I try to avoid, it was better than nothing. Actually, there was a KFC here too, Marg likes ambience.

We ate, I wouldn’t even comment on the food, not my kind of place. Good night.

For some reason, we were late up today. Knowing how the No. 4 Bus operates, the strategy was to go into town, do what had to be done, and come back to the Ibis before getting one of the last buses back in. Logical.

The first port of call was the Tourist Information Office which was close to Brasserie L’Alba. L’Alba was more – Pukka Restaurant – than – Bierhaus, dismissed. I had to verify the existence of the morning bus to Bonifacio on Saturday morning. At first the chap attending was doubtful, to the point of suggesting we would have to go a day early. Having consulted the same website as I had on the still reliable Huawei, he confirmed the 08.30 Bus. But from where? This was crucial, the locus was marked on a map.

At what turned out to be the Bus Station, it was made clear that one can only buy tickets on the day of travel. At the Train Station, the story was the same. However, I did discover something that could have ruined tomorrow. The 11.00 train to Bastia in the on-line train timetable does not exist. In the new timetable, starting today, it has gone. The 08.46 it would have to be. Would Hotel Posta Vecchia in Bastia let us check-in early? I emailed them, the answer was – Non!

All this and no breakfast. Yesterday, I had spotted the sign at La Rade for – Le Petit Dejeuner. La Rade is one of the handful of tavernas at the marina. It was afternoon, they took us on. Coffee, Orange Juice, Croissant and Bread with Jam for €7.50. Decent. The Cafe au lait was quite simply wonderful, smooth, no bitterness and tasted of – Coffee. The best Coffee I have had in ages. Marg was impressed also. Meanwhile, people sat at adjacent tables drinking half litres of Pietra Ambree. Far too early.

The third, and best, of the three Napoleon statues was next on the agenda. Grotte Austerlitz – was indeed imposing. Hector was not the only person to turn his hat sideways to have his photo taken.

We took a lengthy stroll along the southern coast line of Ajaccio before heading back to the Ibis. This evening we knew what we were about.

It was straight to Brasserie Imperiale for more 5.0% Bionda. There were more customers this evening, again sitting outside. Just in case, I enquired after the IPA, next week, nay luck.

We were recognised by the Waiter at A Vista when we paid our second visit, he had worked at Gleneagles Hotel at some point in his past. I was having the Linguine and Mussels, again, it was that enjoyable. Marg enjoys a Salad, oh dear.

To accompany I had the Pietra Bionda (5.5%) which was frankly – awful. Once upon a time – Blond – was all the rage. Arran, Leffe, La Chouffe. I can still enjoy the latter, that’s about it, the palate has moved on. Chouffe Houblon is preferred. This Bionda was too sweet and had the after-taste I try to avoid. I resolved not to have this again.

Knowing La Rade had the Pietra Ambree on tap, we retired there to watch the world go by. The Sun may set on the west side of Corsica, Ajaccio mostly faces east.

We decided to go exploring again. I had passed an Irish Bar yesterday, sometimes they have Strongbow which could provide relief from the local Bier. I had a look into Shamrock, the Paulaner taps stood out. So did the €6.00 charge for a half litre, much less than everywhere else we have looked at in the last two days. Marg had Bailley’s and watched an athletics meet live from Eugene (Oregon, USA) where Hector and Dr. Stan were last year. Laura Muir, a Scot, came second in her event, Marg was happy. Hector was happy too except every time Mein Host passed us, he had a fag in his hand.

Last night we ordered a taxi by phone and had to wait fifteen minutes. Google Maps said there was a taxi office around the corner, there wasn’t. We headed towards the main street, hoping to hail a taxi. We did find a London cab, parked, privately owned. Not one taxi passed us, we were facing a long walk.

On Friday, we return to Ajaccio in order to be in position to take the bus to Bonifacio.

Hotel le Dauphin will be our domicile, 150m from the Train Station, even less to the Bus Station. I decided to present ourselves early, we need a base from which to order a taxi. The chap on reception did the job. Fifteen minutes we had to wait.  There were six taxis on duty.

The Micro-brewery, Bars and Restaurants visited:

Microbrasserie Imperiale –  5 Rue Zevaco Maire, 20000 Ajaccio, Corsica

A Vista  –  4 Quai Napoléon, 20000 Ajaccio, Corsica

Brasserie Du Port – 13 Boulevard du Roi Jerome, 20000 Ajaccio, Corsica

Buffalo Grill – Rue des Magnolias Lieu-dit Strette La Rocade, 200090, Ajaccio, Corsica

La Rade  – 1 Place Foch, 20000 Ajaccio

Shamrock  –  9 Rue Notre Dame, 20000 Ajaccio, Corsica

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Glasgow Real Ale Festival – G-RAF – 2018

Posted on June 21, 2018 by Hector

The fifth Glasgow Real Ale Festival (G-RAF) of recent times, started today and runs until Saturday night at The Briggait, Saltmarket. The World Cup was on in year #1 and still people turned out, so here’s hoping.

Hector is working today and tomorrow at the Foreign Bar – Bieres sans Frontieres. Some familiar faces accompany me.

The range of Real Ales is from around the UK and Ireland.  The Foreign Bier rotates, this was today’s offering:

As ever, the Briggait looks wonderful at this time of year, the late evening sunshine pouring in.

On Saturday afternoon I assume the Caledonian Pipe Band will make their customary appearance, beware.

Some more familiar faces

Jonathan, the Organiser, accompanied by Colin, erstwhile CAMRA Chairman.

And two from Aberdoom…

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Seattle, Washington – Day #17 – Dr. Stan’s Big Birthday Tour

Posted on June 17, 2018 by Hector

Brasil were playing Schweiz this morning as we awoke for the final full day of fun on this trip. Fox, the only TV channel available in the Marco Polo Motel which has been covering the World Cup, reminded us of where we are and showed the golf. World Cup v US Open, I suppose it is the last round of the golf today.

Tomorrow we fly back to Scotland, via Heathrow, this saga ends today. An extraordinary amount of  effort has gone in to writing up this trip and maintaining a level of accuracy, whilst hopefully being entertaining. Seventeen days of highlighting both the venues and the Bier I would make a beeline for if/when I next get back.

For the first time on this trip I led Dr. Stan to a venue which I had been to, and he hadn’t. Bus 44 took us east towards the University District. The welcome at Chili’s South Indian Cuisine was unforgettable. Two chaps walking in together at lunchtime. It’s – Father’s Day. We were indeed asked if that was why we were here. Mmmmmm.

The Curry was excellent, we were approaching celebrity status by the time we departed. The full story is of course related – here.  Brasil 1 v 1 Schweiz, so we know already who is not going to win the World Cup.

Big Time Brewery & Alehouse is diagonally across the street from the Curry House. If I count correctly, Big Time Brewery is our fifty third Brewpub /Brewery Tap of the trip and is the first of the Brewpubs in Seattle, being established in 1988.

The décor was very much – American Bar. It was still early and so pretty empty. One very tattooed and pierced lady was clearly well known. Having taken up our preferred spot at the bar, she engaged once we had established ourselves.

The Citra Smash IPA at 6.0% with 50 IBU has Citra Hops. The flavours were totally in one’s face, a perfect start to the day. Actually, the Curry was, this just maintained the level.

Ironically, the following did not match this one. That we stayed for a third was all down to the barman who was in excellent form. Samples of Coast to Coast NW-NE IPA at 6.0%. with 50 IBU were offered in both cask and keg. A sample was appropriate, there was definitely a strange aftertaste. Stan had the Cask, Hector moved quickly on to another IPA – Scarlet Fire – at 7.2% with 64 IBU. Despite the glorious – milkshake – appearance, this did not have the flavour or impact of the Citra Smash.

It was time to cleanse the palate. Guava Squeezed Sour at 6.5% with 10 IBU, again hazy. With Citra hops and a fruity flavour, it was not as sour as hoped for.  I am still coming to terms with Sour Bier having a low IBU.

One thing is certain about any future return to Seattle, Citra Smash will again follow a visit to Chili’s.

It was time to head back west towards West Woodland and the largest cluster of breweries we have encountered on this trip, our reason for staying in the adjacent Fremont. There are six breweries spread across three blocks, and the same again within a kilometre radius. It may well be a stagger home.

Bus 44 dropped us three blocks above Stoup Brewing. Walking down the hill, leaving the residential area behind, here was an industrial estate, essentially full of Brewpubs.  On entering Stoup Brewing a question came to mind – were people here for Bier or a picnic? There was a food wagon parked outside the entrance and a lot a families. That meant weans occupying many seats inside and out. Having spotted the upstairs we were happy to find another bar. From there we could oversea the outdoor seating area. We also had space, though a couple did come and sit beside us. As always, we chatted.

The sensible start was Citra IPA at 5.9% with 50 IBU, a yellow, almost totally clear Bier, with great body and a full on Citra flavour. This would have been enough for many. What followed was another standout Bier for this trip.

Other Side of the Pillow IPA at 6.8% with Hector’s favoured 70 IBU is similarly yellow but more hazy. This Bier is thicker, way chewier, and even tastier with the citrus again to the fore. Some would have been tempted to sit and sup this until closing time, but that is still not what this trip is about.

Next door to Stoup Brewing is Obec Brewery, we passed it by. Having chatted to quite a few people in Seattle, Rueben’s Brews was highly recommended.

Across the street and around the corner, this felt more like a pub crawl than a tour of breweries. Reuben’s Brews has no bar stools and so we took up space at a ledge on the far right of the room. With twenty four taps there was much to digest. Three taps were off, this still left a choice from seven IPAs.

Three Crushketeers at 6.0% with 50 IBU had – juicy – in the given description. We are coming to recognise this term, it has only taken seventeen days. What arrived was another golden yellow – milkshake. Passion fruit hopped with Citra, Mosaic, and Galaxy, this Bier had to compete with the remnants of what lay on the palate after Stoup. Didn’t it do well?

Dr. Stan has carried a bottle of water with him throughout the trip, his way clearing the palate and staying hydrated. A keg of still water sat in the middle of the room with a bicycle pump arrangement on top. It was help yourself, and so he did. Of all the photos I have taken on this trip, these may in time, become the most memorable. Dr. Stan, a keg, a pump, water, and no potato peelings.

Triumvirate at 6.2% with 52 IBU is surprise, surprise, another IPA. As clear a Bier as we have had, this had great body but suffered from a slight sweetness at the start. Again, this was probably down to what came before. Grapefruit was promised, this I did not get, passion fruit is the name of the game at Reuben’s Brews. This proved to be another outstanding Bier.

There were simply too many tempting choices, once more we were in the situation of having to move on. We could have spent an entire day here, but that would have meant missing out on Lucky Envelope Brewing which was a whole block away.

*

At Reuben’s Brews, I had spotted a couple who had also been at Stoup Brewing. On walking into Lucky Envelope and finding them sitting at the bar, there was mutual recognition. They were doing six breweries today and somehow managing to get home thirty five miles away, I will not say how, but only in the USA.

*

With a mere eight Biers to choose from, plus a Cider, the board looked limited after Reuben’s, however, quality was maintained.

Grapefruit Eniac Mosaic IPA at 6.8% and 68 IBU looked to be just what we desired, and indeed it was. Some IPAs are milky, some hazy, this was clear but still packed the full hoppy punch. We are doing well today – I remarked to Dr.Stan.

With just the four customers, Hanna, who was serving, was very much part of the ongoing conversation. When I did my usual photographic ritual, she congratulated me on taking photos of the surroundings rather than selfies, which the majority seemingly do.

Hanna provided a taster of the B.A. Hazelnut Coffee IMP. Porter. A sample of this 9.5% Bier was appropriate, as it was not – goodnight Bier –  yet, though Lucky Envelope was closing soon. This did exactly what it would have said on the tin, the best Stout/Porter I have tasted on this trip.

The twin of our first Bier followed, Eniac Mosaic IPA, same abv, same IBU. I noted the – body – which puzzled after the Porter, the hoppy flavours were once again to the fore. Yet again this afternoon, we had found a Brewery well worth the visit.

Hanna had cleared up but was not quite ready to leave. A large bottle of the Grapefruit Eniac Mosaic IPA was divvied up between the three of us. Cheers, Hanna!

A Sunday night, all the local Brewpubs were allegedly now closed, and so Hanna sent us across to Trailbend Taproom.

Trailbend Taproom is halfway back to Reuben’s Brews from Lucky Envelope, we had passed it earlier. Open until midnight, and with forty two taps, just what we needed. Bier from all over was represented on the board. There was Bier from the sublime  Cloudburst Brewing visited yesterday and Stoup. That was it, let’s drink Bier, no more note taking.

We have stopped using cash. The final note is a $50.00 bill which looks as though it will make it all the way home.

We had to get back to Marco Polo, some of us have a ‘plane to catch, tomorrow afternoon. The half hour walk was declared too long. We walked back up the hill, Bus 44 was due at 12.04, perfect.

After tonight, no more Bier for a very long time, please. The Glasgow Real Ale Festival (G-RAF) starts in four days, Dr. Stan and Hector are manning the Foreign Bar – Bieres sans Frontieres. So it goes.

The Brewpubs, bar and restaurant visited today:

Chili’s South Indian Cuisine – 4220 University Way NE, Seattle, WA 98105

Big Time Brewery – 4133 University Way Northeast Seattle WA 98105

Stoup Brewing – 1108 NW 52nd St, Seattle, WA 98107

Reuben’s Brews – The Taproom – 5010 14th Ave NW, Seattle, WA 98107

Lucky Envelope Brewing – 907 NW 50th St, Seattle, WA 98107

Trailbend Taproom – 1118 NW 50th St, Seattle, WA 98107

Posted in Seattle | Comments Off on Seattle, Washington – Day #17 – Dr. Stan’s Big Birthday Tour

Seattle, Washington – Day #16 – Dr. Stan’s Big Birthday Tour

Posted on June 16, 2018 by Hector

The Plan for today included Curry, of course, followed by two north east Seattle Brewpubs. Thereafter we would head downtown on the very speedy Transit light rail.

Bus 44 from the top of Aurora Avenue took Hector on a twenty five minute ride due east along NE 45th St. to the University District. Here lies Chili’s South Indian Cuisine.

The South Indian Smokey flavour that features in Chettinad-style Curry is a particular favourite. I had hoped for Fish but was happy to settle for Goat Chettinad. Finally, at the thirteenth attempt, and this goes back to 2013 and New York’s East 6th Street, Hector was served a Curry in USA that he can say was – truly wonderful!

Dr. Stan didn’t know it yet, but he is accompanying Hector here tomorrow. He will take my word about the quality of the Curry, and Big Time Brewery is almost directly across the street. University Way could well become Hector’s favourite street in Seattle. I wonder what the accommodation is like around here … thousands of students, no chance.

The first westbound bus took me back along NE 45th St. to Floating Bridge Brewing where Dr. Stan was found drinking alone. It has come to this. Thereafter, it was just us and the charming lady serving until some sort of office group came in and had a Bier or two among the tanks. Fortunately, I had already made my photographic coverage of this decidedly bijou Brewpub.

Weyermann Malt, not from Newcastle,  is becoming a common sight on this trip.  Bamberg Malt, New World hops, what a combination. 

In keeping with my most recent direction of travel, the first Bier of the day was Westbound IPA at 7.2% with 72 IBU. Perhaps a higher abv than normal to start the day, however, the Bier was definitely in the style we seek. With Mosaic, Simcoe, and Centennial Hops, this Bier was very light on the palate, a gentle start to the day.

With a long day ahead, I decided to eschew the hop and go Sour. The Oaked Apricot Sour at 6.2% and only 7 IBU is gold with a slight haze. This Sour lived up to its description: Kettle soured ale fermented with apricot and conditioned on American oak. Indeed.

Ravenna Brewing Co. is located in the heart of university land. We looked at the bus options, it was just as quick to walk, and so we did. Once we headed north from NE 45th St., we meandered though a residential area with lots of university buildings, fraternity and sorority houses even. There were no wild parties on the lawns, so much for Hollywood.

It was quite a hike, as we walked up the hill for the final steps, a thirst had been worked up, dangerous. There was seating in the shade outside Ravenna, what I took to be an ice-cream van on site was selling a more diverse range of snacks. The interior revealed a plant even smaller than Floating Bridge.

*

I grabbed stools at a high table and let the Good Doctor go to the bar, or rather, join the queue. Our first choice of Bier was in keeping with our established norm. Triumph Mosaic Pale, an American Pale Ale at 5.8% is dark gold with a slight haze. I appear to write this a few times every day. Cool and refreshing, it was just what we needed.

That’s going down particularly well – I remarked to Dr. Stan.

Chatting with the staff was difficult. We were not sat at t’bar, and until near enough our departure, there was always a queue. The staff here stood out from every one of the near fifty Brewpubs we have visited on this trip, not one had a visible tattoo. It has been an unwritten rule that bar-staff in Brewpubs must be covered in ink. One day this current phase of having one’s body painted will end, then we’ll see how naph it is.

There was a schism for our next drink. Dr. Stan went crazy and ordered an 8.4% beautiful milkshake. The Secret Double Hazy IPA looked wonderful, no doubt it was, very much what we now seek. However, Limoncello, how could Hector resist?

Limoncello Cider (Elemental Cider Company, Arlington WA) at 6.0% delivered everything I sought at that moment. The – lemon – was radically different from anything else I have recently tasted. With that wolfed down Hector too could have got very silly and ordered the DIPA. We were headed downtown, our Brewpub tally in Seattle is below what it should be thanks to our Renton diversion yesterday.

On leaving, the main chap behind the bar asked – How did you guys hear about us?  We’re only open two years and not in the main area.

Google Maps and the Washington Beer Guide – was the reply. Maybe in the years to come, Bier-Traveller may be added to this list.

Google provided us with a very efficient route downtown. Bus 372 would take us from outside Ravenna to the grounds of the University. From there there is a short walk down to the Link light rail. It’s a pity the Transit line does not cover more of the city.

Also waiting at the 372 bus stop was a Doris with a huge speaker in her backpack playing the sort of shite we have avoided throughout this trip. … female rapping …with nasal tones a la Rosie Perez. Why did the entire north of Seattle have to hear this?

Fortunately, it was only a couple of stops on the bus then the walk to the metro for the Transit Link station at Huskey Stadium, part of Washington University.

We emerged into Seattle’s central business district, a city centre full of people, busy streets, traffic. We hadn’t seen anything like this since leaving San Francisco. There are no vagrants here.

The Pike Brewing Company is where we were headed, just a couple of blocks away. Dr. Stan was a bit premature and entered the first premises displaying the name – Pike. Don’t tell him! With the Pike Place Market only metres away, not to mention Saffron Spice, the name – Pike – was plentiful around here.

Still in shorts, Hector knew that this establishment was way too posh for the likes of us. Despite this, we were shown to the bar in what was a truly grand restaurant. This was not a Brewpub, we know what they look like, but the mainstream Bier was surveyed before we made our excuses and left.

The Pike Brewing Company is a well established Craft Beer bar and restaurant. The entrance was arcade-like, we walked down the stairs into the beginnings of the Bier house. The walls are adorned with Bier trays and posters aplenty. The segregated seating areas were mostly empty as we entered, presumably one can book one’s favourite area within the house.

*

There were no available seats at the bar initially. We declared our spot to be on stools at a ledge adjacent to the bar. In time, we were able to take up what we considered to be our rightful place. Dr. Stan took the opperchancity to buy food. This is what he ordered, I know not either.

Pike IPA at 6.0% with 45 IBU was a safe choice to start, indeed, the Bier was decidedly – safe. Once more this IPA is dark gold, with a slight haze. We have come to accept this as the – standard. One always hopes for something outrageously new.

Sitting on my left was Scott, a USAAF veteran. Our tale was told, he appreciated our mission to – chase the hop. The conversation developed, the barman was engaged at times. We spent another memorable hour here, there was of course another Bier.

Space Needle, well someone had to claim the name, is a 5.5% American IPA with 58 IBU. Scott assured us that this is Pike’s – signature Bier. With four hops from the nearby Yakima Valley, this is a tastier Bier by far, but still not at the – Wow! – level.

Scott understood what we are looking for. I don’t know where Dr. Stan intended us to go next, we never made it. Instead, Scott declared that we had to go to Cloudburst Brewing which was on the other side of Pike Place Market, and was not open late. Scott was due home, a quick phone call and his return was agreeably delayed. Scott would accompany us to Cloudburst, the big build up.

Scott led us out the rear entrance down to the market. He showed us – The Gum Wall – which was suitably disgusting.

The sun was setting, the skyline was spectacular. The Olympic Mountains lay to the west.

We stood at a vantage point to see – The Seattle Great Wheel – as featured in many a TV programme.

Finally, Scott pointed out the mother shop of a famous coffee chain.

Tourists? Us? Scott came out with a great line:

There’s a cross between a tourist and a moron, it’s called a – touron.

Clouburst is housed in an industrial unit, no posh bar and restaurant as in nearby Elysian Fields or Pike Brewing. It was time to get down and dirty again, some real ale drinking. Scott told us that Cloudburst was established by a former Elysian brewer who set this up after the Anheuser-Busch buy out.

Being a Saturday night, the place was busy, some of the board was showing what we could have had. It’s keg Bier, so why not change the barrels? The remaining choices proved to be more than adequate.

Refracted Light IPA at 7.0% with 58 IBU has Citra, Simcoe, Galaxy and Ella Hops. The flavour was full on, an instant winner.

I did my usual tour, camera in hand. In addition to the oft spotted Weyermann Malt (Bamberg), Simpson and William Crisp were also stacked up.

Gentle Coast Pale at 6.2% with 29 IBU had another blend of four hops. This time it was Citra, Mosaic, Simcoe and Hop 438. The given description mentioned – stone fruit. Indeed, a fruity tasting Bier. Whilst hazy, neither Bier has the – milkshake – appearance that we have encountered. Damn good Bier though, one day perhaps I’ll get back here and try more of their impressive range.

Scott bade farewell, he was a couple of hours overdue, and left us in the care of the barman. Hector was – last man out – of course.

Bus 62 took us back to Fremont and Outlander. The 62 Bus, no Saturday night singing on this one, no stopping off at the police station to deal with rowdy passengers. Dr. Stan was behaving himself this evening. I must text somebody.

*

Outlander Bier was not going to compete with what we had just sampled at Clouburst. It was time to tick another box. We had passed the Schilling Cider House – The Source –  in Portland four nights ago. It was time to try their – Hard Cider – and excellent it was too. The few Ciders I have tried have all been excellent. Dry, and with more body and flavour than the keg served at home, also livelier than traditional flat Cider from SW England, the Americans have something good going on here. And what better way to rinse the palate in readiness for the next hop attack, unless some Polish Hazelnut Wodka is to hand?

Three nights in Seattle, three visits to Outlander, they’re open late and it’s the closest Brewpub to Marco Polo Motel. Our faces have become familiar, we chatted with the owner who is Serbian and his Latvian friend. Hector was in Latvia last year, and so the bars in Riga were discussed. It’s a pity I have never found the time to write that trip up. Croatia won their first match in the World Cup, I don’t know how that makes a Serbian feel.

Marg and Hector head off to Hellas/Greece, Italia then Hrvatska/Croatia in a couple of weeks. We are due to be in Croatia for the final, that could potentially be a night to remember. Nothing is certain in football, unless the likes of Bernard Tapie has been involved.

Dr. Stan appears not to like the walk up the hill to the Marco Polo. Tomorrow is our last day and night in Seattle. There is a cluster of Brewpubs immediately to the west of our accommodation stiill to be explored, and Dr. Stan now accepts that he is having Sunday lunch at a Curry House.

The Brewpubs and restaurant visited today:

Floating Bridge Brewing – 722 NE 45th St, Seattle, WA 98105

Ravenna Brewing Co. – 5408 26th Ave NE, Seattle, WA 98105

The Pike Brewing Company – 1415 1st Ave, Seattle, WA 98101

Cloudburst Brewing – 2116 Western Ave, Seattle, WA 98121

Outlander Brewery and Pub – 225 N 36th St, Seattle, WA 98103

Chili’s South Indian Cuisine  –  4220 University Way NE, Seattle, WA 98105

Posted in Seattle | Comments Off on Seattle, Washington – Day #16 – Dr. Stan’s Big Birthday Tour

Seattle & Renton, Washington – Day #15 – Dr. Stan’s Big Birthday Tour

Posted on June 15, 2018 by Hector

Portugal 3 v 3 España, a good start to the day. Thereafter it was across the footbridge and down the hill to Qazis Indian Curry House which we passed last night en route to Outlander. Sadly, it was yet another tale of bland Curry. Hector is in despair. Surely there are real Indian Chefs in USA?

Bus 40 took us Downtown. As we waited I deduced the fare would be $1.00 or $2.50 depending on the number of zones we were crossing. The lady driver was out of a classic Hollywood movie. She enquired as to Dr. Stan’s age, as an – Honored Citizen – he was charged $1.00. As his buddy, Hector the Younger was charged the same.

The ORCA ticket office is just around from King St. station where we arrived yesterday. Once again, Dr. Stan was given a very advantageous rate for the next three days travel. Hector didn’t do too badly. Tip, come to Seattle after your 65th birthday.

Elysian Fields Brewpub was only a couple of blocks from the ORCA office. You would think we actually planned our days.

There is brewing on site at Elysian Fields, part of Elysian Brewing who have fallen to Anheuser-Busch’s ongoing campaign to associate themselves with Craft Beer. The place was near empty when we arrived mid afternoon, but busy when we departed over an hour later. Given the outstanding Bier that has been experienced on this trip, there was nothing here to excite.

The Immortal IPA at 6.3% with 62 IBU is gold, not copper as claimed. Chinook, Amarillo, and Centennial hops were present, the Bier was little more than – OK.

Avatar at 6.3%, a Jasmine IPA was ordered in an attempt to try something different. Not so great – was noted, indeed, – a bit flowery. Glacier and Amarillo hops.

The barman, on receiving his tip, presented a decent sample in the plastic glass. Testing One Two, an IPA at 6.7% was the best of the three. Summit, Azacca, Jarrylo, and Pekko Hops gave the taste of citrus, herbs and spice with no surprise aftertaste, which the Avatar had done.

Having amassed a decent quantity of Bier, this was certainly a good warm up to the day. Dr. Stan was calling the shots as to where we were headed next. Where we ended up was certainly not part of any plan.

We went to the Transit Station on the east side of King St. train station – International District / Chinatown Station. From there, the light railway / tram should have taken us to Beacon Hill Station outside Perihelion Brewery, a seventeen minute journey, simples.

On arriving at the Transit Station I knew I had to tap my ORCA card. Dr. Stan’s special card worked fine, mine did nothing. The third machine finally – pinged. Down we went into the bowels of Seattle. The platform was stowed, the information board was quite confusing. Time to consult Google for more precise information. The LG was having none of it. No trams came, instead a bus came out of the darkness into the station, everyone else got on. In a move that would have made Marg proud, I adopted her logic, we got on too. We sat at the back of the bus, Hector getting the battery out of the frozen LG. We were heading south, in the right direction. With Google Maps restored I assured Dr. Stan that if we turn left – here – then we were OK.

The bus turned left, then right, on to the freeway, Interstate 5 – to be precise. I now know this to be Bus 101, but where were we headed, how soon could we alight?

Seattle-Tacoma International Airport lay ahead of us as did ten Brewpubs scattered across many kilometres. Our next Bier would be truly random.

Renton, not the one beside Alexandria in the Vale of Leven, but home to the Boeing aircraft factory was the first settlement we could alight at. That we passed St. Anthony School must prove we were never – lost.

Walking in from the western edge of the town, actually Renton is a city, we passed two Curry Houses, neither open. Google shows a cluster of six within walking distance of each other. Renton has two downtown Brewpubs, Four Generals Brewing was reportedly open, Dubtown Brewing Company around the corner was in reserve.

We walked in to the premises to the strain of the loudest music we have heard in our fifteen days here in USA, but still at a level to permit conversation, British bars please note. Black Sabbath was followed by more Black Sabbath, then even more. The barman loves Black Sabbath. As we settled down to the first of our two excellent Biers, I had to tell him I saw the classic line-up back in 1974 at the time of Vol 4. With two support acts, Necromandus and Byzantium, it was a ridiculously short main set from Black Sabbath. This afternoon I would hear more Black Sabbath than I did the night of the Glasgow concert. Sabbath Bloody Sabbath, I sold the original vinyl decades ago, I must buy the CD, great stuff.

Renton River Haze at 6.3%, a New England IPA, bring it on! Gold and milky, the Usual Suspects were here, this Bier was very pleasantly hopped with Citra, Cryo, Amarillo and Magnum.

Black Sabbath gave way briefly to Led Zeppelin, one silly US “wrack-music” song had to be suffered before normality was restored, more Bier, more Black Sabbath.

The West Coast IPA at 7.4% with a very interesting 82 IBU was more amber than gold and with a haze. The Zeus and Cascade hops were full on, another Bier – in the style – and far too easy to drink for this abv.

During my short tour of the building, I had to record the old gaol cell, a bit of Renton history inside Four Generals Brewing.

Google came up with Bus 148 which would take us to Perihelion Brewery just south of the intersection of Interstates 5 and 90. Who knows, one day I might come back chauffeur driven. A one hour nine minutes journey? They’re having a laugh.

The main bus stops were a couple of blocks away. Renton most certainly has its attractions and is very close to the airport such that a taxi could be considered. Arriving/Departing by ‘plane, this could be an ideal place to spend a night before/after. I also now see four Brewpubs, two downtown and two a kilometre to the north near the lakeside Boeing factory, and quite a few more a short hop by taxi. Six Curry Houses, I wonder what the Curry is like here? Hector Curry-Heute should have stayed to find out!Perihelion Brewery was busy inside and out, it was dinner time. We were hungry too. Unfortunately, I had ordered the Stout Adobo Chicken Wings before I established what the mysterious Bone Marrow Dish was all about. Dr. Stan had a very strange looking Chilli Con Carne.

Galactic Drift IPA at 6.6% and an impressive 81 IBU was the first Bier. Amber, with a slight haze, there was nothing not to like, another Bier – in the style. Mosaic hops featured.

Food sorted, and a limited photographic coverage achieved due to trying to respect privacy, Mein Host proved to be very happy to pose. It was good to meet him and tell our tale. Fifteen days in, we have covered a lot of Brewbpubs.

*

Roasted Pepper IPA at 6.7% and the same 81 IBU was Bier #2. Dark gold, with a slight haze, the dry flavours gave a punch rather than a kick. Poblano Chilli Peppers, new to Hector.

Beacon Hill Transit Station was deserted. We sped north on the light railway to 3rd Ave & Union St. where Bus 62 could have been our connection. We checked out Dexter Brewing but were too late, so many Brewpubs shut early. Bus 40 arrived within the scheduled three minutes and took us back to Fremont, we knew Outlander would be open late, that was good enough.

Dr. Stan insisted on alighting at North 36th Street before the blue dot on the LG said so. He then led me in the wrong direction back towards Quazis. Outlander is this way!

Marmalade IPA at 5.5% seemed a bit thin after the delights had at Perihelion. I was expecting citrus flavours but did note that – tangerine – came across. For the next and final Bier of the day, there was no holding back, time for a DIPA.

Mr Pekko Double IPA at 8.2% certainly had the body, but not the full on sense of hops that was expected. You can’t win them all.

Today we have managed our quota of four Brewpubs, but only three new ones. We lost a good ninety minutes due to the unplanned trip to Renton, however, having been, it is something songs will be sung about for years. Renton, I’ll be back.

France v Australia at 02.00? Maybe not.

The Brewpubs and restaurant visited today:

Elysian Fields – 542 1st Ave S, Seattle, WA 98104

Four Generals Brewing – 229 Wells Ave S, Renton, WA 98057

Perihelion Brewery – 2800 16th Ave S, Seattle, WA 98144

Outlander Brewery and Pub – 225 N 36th St, Seattle, WA 98103

Qazis Indian Curry House – 473 N 36th St, Fremont, Seattle, WA 98103

 

Posted in Renton, Seattle | Comments Off on Seattle & Renton, Washington – Day #15 – Dr. Stan’s Big Birthday Tour

Seattle, Washington – Day #14 – Dr. Stan’s Big Birthday Tour

Posted on June 14, 2018 by Hector

Today we travelled north from Portland to Seattle on Train 504. The scheduled departure was at high noon, a three and a half hour journey. As before, we had to check our luggage in seriously early. It will be waiting for us in Seattle – we were assured.

The World Cup/ Mundial began today at 08.00 local time. The US Open also teed off, I wonder how much football we shall see? For us, kick-off times are @08.00, a bit early given our present lifestyle.

Having had only a glimpse of Mt. Hood as we arrived in Portland from the south I hoped to see Mt. St. Helens today, not to be. The scenery was uneventful. What did register, apart from the slow speed of the train, was the vegetation, one could easily have been in the lowlands of the UK.

On the approaches to Seattle, the airport and the adjacent Boeing aircraft plant were on our left. My Uncle John worked for Boeing for most of his life, I possibly have cousins in Seattle, not that I would know how to contact them.

The train terminated at King St. Amtrak Station in downtown Seattle. We had to stand at an airport style luggage belt and wait for our bags to appear. Security, jobs for the boys, or just a better travel experience? Make your own mind up.

The LG is becoming more erratic by the day, rebooting is becoming a too often occurrence. It did provide the necessary information on how to get to the Motel Marco Polo in Fremont in the north of Seattle.

An E line Bus was at the stop on Yesler Way. Not only did the driver not pull away as we hastened our pace to catch it, on asking for a day ticket and fumbling for change he announced – Have this one on me.

Yay! – one could just imagine a driver on the Glasgow bound bus at Edinburgh Airport being so welcoming, not. (An empirical dig.)

Progress was slow. Our anticipated thirty minute journey grew longer, by the – minute. Thirty minutes became the hour. We passed the Space Needle.  Is that it? Seriously? An adjacent crane towered above the famous landmark, at least we were seeing one – crane – in Seattle. There must have been a detour, leading to an impossible junction to negotiate at the top of a hill. Eventually we sprinted towards the Aurora Bridge crossing the narrow straights which separate Fremont from Downtown.

Our stop was four blocks past the Marco Polo, leaving a steep downhill walk. Already I was wondering how/where to get the bus back to town.

Check-in was strange. Mein Host, the resident receptionist, was listening to The Archers, or similar, on his radio. Were we interrupting him? Our allocated room was on the first floor, a few doors along from the infamous – Room 226. Dr. Stan and Hector were again sharing for the final four nights.  Dr. Stan took the queen bed to the rear opposite the toilet, leaving Hector nearer the front window and facing the television. Ah well, I might get to see some footay.

It was a fifteen minute walk downhill to Fremont Brewing. The taproom has an extensive Beer Garden out front which had the largest gathering of people I have witnessed on this trip. Inevitably, there was a queue for the bar, then we realised there are two bars selling different Biers. We stuck to the two Bier model for the trip, a high IBU-IPA to start, then something different to follow. The number of hazy/juicy/fruity/milkshake style Biers on offer could have had us stay here all night. Hector was determined to move on, hopefully away from the crowd, Dr. Stan may well have been happier to stay put. Food was required, there was none here, it was too dangerous therefore to have more Bier than planned.

Lush IPA at 7.0% with 80 IBU is typical of what we have drunk a lot of on the trip. Gold, with a slight haze, and the New World hoppy flavours one could easily now take for granted. However, this is never the case for 80 IBU.

The young ladies at the other end of our table were engaged, one was more than happy to take the required photo of the chaps. It has been a couple of days since we were indulged.

Trial by Haze at 7.0% is more than a – Hazy IPA. I had to look up ACT IBU, – a crap ton – of hops, Mosaic, Citra and Ekuanot to be precise. The overall flavours were similar to the Lush, or had the palate been assaulted by hops?

Having dragged Dr. Stan away, for his own good, we headed west and under the Aurora Bridge. We passed a Cider House where the palates could have been cleansed, Dr. Stan was having none of that.

*

Outlander Brewery and Pub was some ten minutes away. If I found the grounds of Fremont Brewing busy, then the entire area around Outlander was buzzing. Various bars had people spilled out on to the pavements, sorry, side-walks, and this was a decidedly residential area.

The aroma of Cannabis filled the air. It is legal, and we have spotted many an outlet on this trip. However, this was the first encounter, just the aroma, of course. We are here for hops, not weed.

Outlander is very much a house on the street which has been converted into a Brewpub. On entering, Joy Division were being playing followed by Simple Minds. The Cure followed later, no Hotel California here. We were not here for the music, but this does set the scene for the atmosphere which was truly welcoming. The chaps behind the bar know their stuff, we were well fed and watered.

The Chicken and Asparagus Pie may have been on the small side given US portions, but was well seasoned. Knowing this would be our last venue this evening, we very much got our feet under the table.

Cascade Warrior IPA at 6.0% is an amber Bier very much in the hoppy style sought.

This was followed by Sour Apple at 6.5% which clearly was not a Cider but an actual Sour. A new experience, the apple content if any, was incidental. Hector likes his Sour Ale.

One can tell when it’s getting late, time to try a Stout/Porter at a silly abv. The X-Treme Peanut Butter Stout at 10.7% therefore couldn’t be ignored. Indeed, the taste of nuts came across, but peanuts? Again a new experience.

The walk back to Motel Marco Polo was uphill, it had to be. On reaching the west side of Aurora Avenue, there is a convenient pedestrian bridge over the otherwise impassable road, which took us very close to our destination.

Only two Brewpubs visited today, this was almost like a day off. We’ll be raring to go again tomorrow.

The Brewpubs visited today:

Fremont Brewing Company – 1050 N 34th St, Seattle, WA 98103

Outlander Brewery and Pub – 225 N 36th St, Seattle, WA 98103

 

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Portland, Oregon – Day #13 – Dr. Stan’s Big Birthday Tour

Posted on June 13, 2018 by Hector

Back in the Big City, Dr. Stan and Hector did their own thing for – brunch – today. I arranged to meet Dr. Stan at Migration Brewing after 14.00. TriMet ticket in hand, I headed east along East Burnside Street on Bus 20 as far as Laurelhurst Park. From there I walked down to India Oven which according to Google should have been open. A sign in the window said they now only open in the evenings. Why can businesses not update their media links? India Grill was a fifteen walk back up on East Burnside Street. India Grill, was open. I have yet to establish any connection between the two. I had spotted it earlier on the bus. Fish Curry had been my hope for the day, I had to accept Chicken Curry in two styles. One forced me to use superlatives in the write-up. Best tasting Curry of this trip, by far, again – so far.

*

*

*

Migration Brewing Co. is a five minute walk due north of India Grill, decent planning then, or serendipity. Herr Schneider was greeted by Dr. Stan sitting in the large industrial unit style brewery. Mid afternoon on a Wednesday, there were only a handful of fellow imbibers.

Having arrived first, Dr. Stan was able to recommend the Mo-Haze-ic IPA at 6.1%, no post Curry – Cider – for Hector today. Behold, another full on milkshake-hazy Bier, this one featuring Mosaic hops. A quality Bier indeed, and a refreshing start to the day.

Our days have a pattern of starting very slowly with not a lot of conversation. By Brewery #3 each day things are usually in full swing. I am left to wonder what the atmosphere is like late on in the places we visit first. Last night at Rogue may have been the quietest end of day Bier of the trip, so far.

I had to move my seat momentarily, making way for the chap bringing barrels into brewery, these were empties. From their Gresham plant?

Lupulo – from – Hummulus Lupulis – the word for hops in many languages, and used by Hector when asking for Bier in non English speaking nations. My way of introducing Bier #2 – Luscious Lupulin IPA at 6.5% with a very appealing 77 IBU. This dark gold Bier only had a slight haze, after the – milkshake – there was less of an impact. However, it’s all about the flavours – Citrus and Pine – were noted. A – good bite – also.

Had we come here last, we could have done damage with the Mo-Haze-ic IPA. We were also not too far from home. Our next venue, Culmination Brewing, was not far, a ten minute walk to the north-west.

Culmination Brewing is another modern Brewery with Taproom, nae frills.  With twenty one taps, plenty to choose from.  Hector did not get past no. 2 on the board.

Having missed out on my Cider, a Sour would do the same job of cleansing the palate. Sour Flower at at 5.5% was suitably refreshing but a bit thin. Raspberry and Lime flavours were in the given description, a Belgian Framboise this was not. Still, it did the job.

Culmination was quiet during our visit apart from the monotonous rap that we had to endure. Why people find this appealing, Hector knows not. Who gives a – about whatever they are ranting on about? And what is skillful about stealing other people’s music for a backing track? Uncannily, when the noise ceased, it was Glasgow’s very own – Simple Minds – which followed. Yay!

Phaedrus IPA at 6.7% and a 55 IBU took Hector back to the hop. Dr, Stan assured me that five hops were present: Millennium, Galena, Simcoe, Mosaic and Citra. This was another full on IPA, and appreciated all the more having had the – Sour tweeny.

We walked the few blocks west then north to the MAX station then took the tram across the Willamette River, dropping us almost at the door of PINTS Brewing Company in Portland’s – Old Town. We were back in familiar territory having walked these streets last week.  Not the most attractive of cities, I finally conclude.

PINTS is housed in an established brick building and actually resembled a – pub.

Taking our seats at the bar, Hector glanced at the board. The IPA was spotted, as I say, I had glanced.

Why did you order that? – asked Dr. Stan in a tone that was both dismissive and one of bewilderment.

Why not?

Hector’s – Even Bretter than IPA – at 6.4% and 60 IBU contained Citra, Motueka, Loral and Columbus Hops. What was not to like? Bloody hell! Martin was quick to tell me all the way from Blightly, within hours, that I have been enjoying Brett yeast for yonks in my favourite Hanssens Kriek (Belgium). This Bier was quite simply hideous. It tasted of sweaty sox, not that I … Anyway, avoid!

Dr. Stan then told me that he always avoids Brett yeast, Hector has learned the hard way. Having ordered it, I thought I had better drink it. It is possible to drink without tasting, anyone who uses a straw has practiced this. After a few more excruciating intakes, the Barman took sympathy and poured it away. That was a first and therefore not to be forgotten moment. There was no charge.

The replacement was so much better, but then anything would be. Seismic IPA at 6.1% and 77 IBU was going to be my second choice, it just arrived sooner. A hazy gold with Columbus, Amarillo, Cascade, and Simcoe hops, this was right on the button.

The final Bier was Awesome Sauce at 6.0% with 50 IBU. This New England IPA was in the seriously cloudy and thick category with full on hops, which remained a secret. It was therefore fate that led to me this wonderful Bier. NEIPA and – lactose – are terms I knew nothing of at the start of this trip. These are the positives, I now also know about Brett.

Six blocks west and two south took us to Deschutes Brewery Portland Public House, the joy of a grid street pattern. Who would build a town in such a rigid pattern? Deschutes had to be visited, the Taproom that constantly showed on Google without searching.

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Already we were back in the land of the single storey building. The brick exterior belied what lay inside, the land of wooden beams. The place was mobbed, stowed even, we table hopped one row from the bar. Once settled, service came quickly. Table service, such is the way of the well established downtown establishments.

We were given the menu – without food – Dr Stan required food. Once furnished with the appropriate menu, Chowder ($9.00) became his choice. Fisherman’s Wharf (San Francisco) feels like a lifetime ago.

Despite the twenty three taps which included two Cask versions, Hector – persuaded – Dr. Stan that we were only staying for one. Fruit Fight (6.7%, 60 IBU) a hazy, five hop Bier would have been Bier #2 had we stayed. 10 Barrel Brewing was now only five blocks away, Apocalypse was waiting, probably the best Bier we have had in Portland. In the end Dr. Stan took no persuading at all.

Hector’s choice – Inversion IPA – at 6.8% and a whopping 80 IBU is amber, clear, with a strong flavour. This was not the Bier for Hector whose mind was already on Apocalypse. The blend of hops here was not to my taste, or was this a reaction to the Awesome Sauce which had immediately preceded it at PINTS?

The – facilities – had to be inspected before departure. Rothsay Pier (Isle of Bute, Scotland) came to mind. Portland’s Court Building may well be the oldest stone building west of the Mississippi, I wonder if these are the oldest ceramic urinals?

The five minute walk to 10 Barrel Brewing was over in a flash, our third visit here during our five nights in Portland. This is our – local. The premises were busy but we still managed a table in front of the bar.

A week since we had Apocalypse, it had lost none of its edge given how many contemporaries we have sampled in the interim. This 6.8% West Coast IPA has all the dryness and flavours one seeks. 70 IBU is the same as Rowing Jack (Ale Browar, Polska), a long time favourite IPA.

The stop for Bus 20 on West Burnside Street was only five blocks away. With this bus running after 01.00 there was no fear of being stuck. Actually, it was only a half hour walk back to our accommodation on East Burnside Street. We had chosen well.

And so tomorrow, a train, hopefully a train this time, to Seattle (Washington). Our one day in Vancouver (Washington) was another highlight, let’s see what this even bigger city has to offer.

The Brewpubs and restaurant visited today:

Migration Brewing – Glisan – 2828 NE Glisan St, Portland, OR

Culmination Brewing –  2117 NE Oregon St, Portland, OR 97232

PINTS Brewing Company  –  412 NW 5th Ave, Portland, OR 97209

Deschutes Brewery Portland Public House – 210 NW 11th Ave, Portland, OR 97209

10 Barrel Brewing Portland  –  1411 NW Flanders St, Portland, OR 97209

India Grill – 2924 E Burnside St, Portland, OR 97214

 

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Portland, Oregon – Day #12 – Dr. Stan’s Big Birthday Tour

Posted on June 12, 2018 by Hector

We were booked on Train 14 from Albany to Portland at `13.22. Anytime Taxi took us to the station in time for the check-in of luggage. Having met drivers Ben, Brett and Brock, it was a lady driver this morning. We must have completed the set.

Due to a collapsed tunnel some hundred kilometres south of Albany, our train was cancelled. A bus was running instead, and it was leaving before the allotted train departure time. With road being faster than rail we would arrive in Portland before our scheduled 15.32. More – VDT!

With more than an hour to kill, we had lunch at the Depot across the way from the station. The Prawn dish seemed like a good idea. Had it been Prawns and Dressing I may have managed it, however there was a gritty cereal-like filler and not enough moisture. This was also my first exposure to table service Coke with free refills. Doris had to keep them coming at speed until I persuaded her to stop filling the glass with ice and actually give me Cola.

I had been looking forward to another train journey, we still have Portland to Seattle in two days time. On the outskirts of Portland, away to my right, I spotted a familiar sight: a massive conical snow-capped peak. It was way bigger in real life than I could ever have imagined. This was Mt. Hood, one of the Cascade Range of volcanoes of which Mt. St. Helens is the most famous, i.e. until Mt. Hood does its business. My first glimpse was the best one, no photos, and the volcano ain’t visible from the city centre.

Arriving at Union Station we knew the lie of the land. After checking in to Eastside Lodge on East Burnside St., we would be walking thereafter, so no TriMet day ticket was purchased, just a single.

Check-in was efficient, Dr. Stan and Hector are sharing again. After nipping out to a local grocery to get some liquid for the fridge, it was time to get the day underway proper.

Burnside Brewing Co. was only a couple of blocks from the accommodation, if we didn’t check it out now we probably would never get back to it in time.

Burnside IPA at 6.5% with a most inviting 85 IBU is orange, hazy, and had a distinctive German taste to it, but was clearly still and IPA. I wondered if some Hallertau hops had been added.

The premises are quite substantial, the large bar and food serving area took up most of the front. I went, camera in hand, to survey the rest. A pity the photo of the board was too fuzzy to post, and this was us starting out.

The Tropic of Capricorn looks identical to the Burnside IPA. This time the abv was only 6.2% and a mere 62 IBU. This Bier tasted more mainstream, but as I write this I know that the New World hops present here would have the people at home going crazy over this.

The walk to our next brewery – Hair of the Dog – was fifteen minutes in a south-westerly direction, back towards the Willamette River. We crossed the railway line that we should have trundled along earlier. Off the beaten track may describe the locus of Hair of the Dog.

Hair of the Dog  becomes the first Brewery on this trip where I  cannot enthuse about their Bier. However, I shall always remember it for the food which was as Spicy as the Hector seeks and had oodles of flavour.

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Bier matters first, Lila at 5.5% is described on the Hair of the Dog website as a Vienna Lager. Keller Beer is how the menu had it. Also, Our Mother’s Day Beer? Indeed. This unfiltered lager has a sweet grainy flavour, I could taste the sweetness and the alcohol.

Having been quite a few hours since I had eaten, bunkers were required. The Chuck Norris Duck Wings ($9.00) were accompanied by strips of Capsicum, not a problem when Hector is not having Curry. A solid punch, and a kick, these were – Spicy.

Three Duck Wings, Capsicums and Onion were sat on what looked like a Soya based sauce. The kick hit instantly, the Capsicums were well marinaded and had lost their belch power. I love Duck, when I order food from that other Asian but not Indian source, it’s usually Kung Po Duck, meat and mixed vegetables in a spicy sauce.

Spicy? This took Hector to his limit, and only then did Sweet & Sour come across. This was magnificent.

To which corner do I crawl off and die? – I asked the barman when I had finished.

On enquiring about the ingredients of the sauce I was told it was not Soya but a Duck stock with Habanero and herbs. Habanero, my new friend. I should have ordered the Bread and Butter ($3.50) to mop up the sauce.

Bier #2 was Blue Dot, a Double IPA at 7.0%. Similar on colour to the Lila, this hazy DIPA was at an acceptable abv, but still I could the taste the alcohol. Not the best by any means, but standards in Oregon are high. Below average here still ain’t too shabby.

Still, a bit of a downer, maybe twelve consecutive days of Bier drinking is taking its toll? In Europe, ten days is usually the maximum for a trip. Five is the preferred, beyond that Hector looks forward to not drinking alcohol. The palate had to be resurrected. Cider is a great alternative to Bier, we passed Schilling Cider House between Hair of the Dog and Cascade Brewing Barrel House as we walked the few blocks east.

Dr. Stan was never going to visit a Cider House, and Hector’s duty was to look after – The Good Doctor.

Cascade Brewing Barrel House was just what we needed, – The House of Sour – is their self proclaimed appellation. If one does not appreciate Sour Bier, then this is not for you.

The staff were keen, very keen, very proud. The prices here reflected the effort gone into the Bier, this was Craft Beer plus.

When I tasted the Kriek 2016 I was gobsmacked. Even in Belgium there are so many Krieks that are so sweet they are avoided. Kriek 2016 at 7.4% had the full on cinnamon that Hector associates with his very favourites. I dare to write Hanssens (Belgium), this Kriek was worthy of being included at that level of Lambic. The given description remains puzzling – Red ales aged in oak wins barrels with Bing and sour pie cherries. If I looked up – Bing – it would spoil the mystery.

I have referred to the music played at a few venues, tonight it was Stairway to Heaven (Led Zeppelin). We have yet to be exposed to the horrors of disco, rap or American – Schlager music.

More Kriek would have gone done down very well, that is not our way, on this trip anyway. Mulled Apple Sour at 7.1% was described as – A blend of blond and red ales with fresh apple cider, honey, vanilla and spices. Hector summarises this as – Apfel Glühwein, with body, served cold, thankfully.

I have studied the t-shirts in every Brewpub visited to date. None have been worth the money, the designs have been poor, iron on transfers too common, no polo shirts. Finally, here was a range that I could not resist. The tie-dye t-shirts proved to be irresistible.

We crossed the road to Rogue Eastside Pub & Pilot Brewery, what a massive venue. The place was virtually empty, a Tuesday night, the quietest one of the week even in the USA. It was getting late, our last Brewery of the day. Needless to say we were in a good place when we entered and took prime seats at the bar.

The choice was plentiful, a Cask version of a Younger’s (Scotland) ale was dismissed, I didn’t come here to drink a Scottish Bier.

However, where else would I find such Bier in Cask? The palate was ready for more hops.

Outta Line at 6.5% was probably appreciated more than it would have been had we not stopped off at Cascade. This West Coast IPA had in face hops, tremendous.

We had settled in sufficiently that the serving Doris was happy to pose with Dr. Stan, then take our photo. This is something Dr. Stan is finally coming to terms with. No photos, no records, no memories.

Hector the Squirrel had to finish on a nutty note.

Hazelnut Brown Nectar at 5.6% was disappointingly thin after the previous indulgences, but the flavour of nuts was there. All was forgiven, though I could have murdered an equivalent to Komes Baltic Porter.

We weren’t last out but were late enough to see the taps being cleaned and put to bed. I led Dr. Stan up the hill to our accommodation. Where are the Kebab shops when you need one?

The Brewpubs visited today:

Burnside Brewing Co. – 701 E Burnside St, Portland, OR 97214 – Closed

Hair of the Dog Brewing Company – 61 SE Yamhill St, Portland, OR 97214

Cascade Brewing Barrel House – 939 SE Belmont St, Portland, OR 97214

Rogue Eastside Pub & Pilot Brewery – 928 SE 9th Ave, Portland, OR 97214

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