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Praha – Three Days in January 2017 – Day 3

Posted on January 12, 2017 by Hector

+4°C !

After an hour or so doing – the sights – around Stare Mesto, The Bier-Traveller had to return to the hotel room at U Medvidku to remove a layer, a rise of 18°C, very noticeable. I had a quick look into the main Bierhalle just in case Steve was having a sneaky pint. In the end I texted him, he was a few doors along the corridor. Neither of us had any interest in Pivo before 14.00.

We took the Metro to Jiriho z Podebrad, no BeerGeek today, the destination was a venue which Hector holds close to his heart – the Birthplace. Pivnice U Sadu is where a certain story was told back in 2007 which resulted in the moniker – Hector – being applied to yours truly, ten years. We did have a Birthday Cake back in 2012, I had to at least visit sometime on this Trip.

Hello can I help you? – was the greeting from the staff member nearest the Bar as we entered. Ten years ago we all enjoyed our visit. Last time we left due to the incompetence of the staff. The tone of today’s greeting was not right. The smell of tobacco hit one in the face, half a dozen customers, every one was smoking, wtf.

You have no non-smoking area! – I asked rhetorically. Had it not been for the – special occasion – we would have left immediately.

That was the last intercourse with him, a Waitress would serve us, eventually. Again, walking would have been a consideration, there are plenty of other venues nearby. Sadek (Nefiltr) (11°) would be our solitary Pivo here. It turned out to be most pleasant, and despite the excesses of the past two days, went down very well. The Sadek was suitably dry, and cloudy as one would expect from an Unfiltered Bier.

It was Steve who borrowed from – Breaking Bad – to compose the celebratory photo.

Lipanska is a well known Tram stop to Hector. We headed over the Square towards it to find the Tram which would take us to Bulovka and hence Pivovar U Bulovky – Richter Pub. Having established we were going in the wrong direction, I decided to return to my strength and employ the Metro. Up to Palmovka and Tram 10, tried and tested.

My memory of Pivovar U Bulovky is of being a bright, modern, very Germanic Bierhaus, set in an open area. Imagine my surprise when we stumbled upon this modest establishment. Yes, I had been here before, so where is the venue in my head?

Most tables were reserved from 17.30 0nwards. An hour or so for a couple of Biers would be sufficient. We had a choice of four.

The IPA (15° / 6.5%) was the obvious starter. Ten years ago I would no doubt have gone for the Svetly Lezak, even then my Weissbier Obsession was waning.

The description of the IPA mentioned – Citrus – I could taste the Hops were from the US, but not necessarily the Hops I wanted, could be better, if a Bier can be overdone, this was.

The Vanocni Special (15° / 5.9%) truly was – Spezial. Smoky berries, a unique combination of flavours, I would return just to have this again.

Another Bier was an option, but there are other places to visit this evening. More importantly, there had been no Curry-Heute! Yesterday we passed Indian Happy Tandoor, research suggested it was well worth a visit. It was! With Quality Curry and a Unique Bier within minutes of each other, it looks as though Pivovar U Bulovky will be a – must visit – venue on future trips.

There was no messing about after the Curry. The Metro from Koblisy took us back to the City Centre in minutes. Our Holden Tours of the last two days had not included Restaurace Kulovy Blesk, this impressed back in 2015.

Kulovy Blesk was stowed. The heated/enclosed – outdoor – area was fully occupied. We went downstairs, no joy, but at least we managed a glimpse of the Main Bar. There was nothing for it… Excuse me, mind if we join you?

No more hand holding at our table tonight.

Bad Flash – Hop Wings – APA (12°) appeared to have the required pedigree. Sadly, it was relatively thin, even watery. The Pivo was decidedly dry, but had no distinctive flavour. It is possible the taste buds had been overloaded with Smoky berries and Marinated Lamb.

Steve took a different path, I returned to the familiar. Matuska – Raptor – (15°) had a much fuller body, the hops were evident rather than pronounced. This was a step in the right direction.

Now where?

Illegal Beer had not been visited, Jama I am led to believe is closed. Wherever we chose next had to be excellent, it would be the last venue of The Trip. The walk along and up to Dno Pytle was as done in 2015. The main room at the front was half full. As I approached the end of a large table, Mein Host pointed to the far table where we had sat two nights ago. He moved his Lady so that Steve and I could take our places. Excellent, and so was the Bier. Lissa – Huera IPA – once again kept us going until we decided it was time.

As we left I shook Mein Host’s hand. This is a my favourite Pub in Praha. I spotted Kraus – Bock – (Hirschaid, Bayern) in the fridge for tomorrow, Friday. Steve and Hector were there the day after – The Tapping – back in November. Dno Pytle has the best of Czech and Deutsche Bier.

If the Tram heads towards the river, we’ll get off this time. As long as it does not turn south.

When the Tram turned south, so we baled. It was a fair hike in the pouring rain to IP Pavlova, the Metro was off, Taxi!

We were too late for the Pivni Bar, there is always Reception!

And so ended three excellent days in Praha. In 2007 I was there three times. I need to go back again this year.

The Breweries and Bars visited today:

Pivnice U Sadu – Škroupovo nám. 1282/5, 130 00 Praha 3-Žižkov

Pivovar U Bulovky Richter Pub – Bulovka 373/17, 180 00 Praha 8-Liben

Restaurace Kulovy Blesk – Sokolska 13, Nove Mesto Praha – 2

Dno Pytle – Vinohradská 1485/63, Praha 2 – Vinohrady

Pivovar U Medvidku – Na Perštýne 7, Praha 1 – Staré Mesto

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Praha – Three Days in January 2017 – Day 2

Posted on January 11, 2017 by Hector

-14°C had taken its toll. Hector woke in the small hours feeling as if there was a rock in his left eye. The bathroom mirror revealed nothing, the streaming eye and the pain continued all night, and all day thereafter. Should I have brought the – long johns – to supplement the thermal trousers which have been de rigeur even in Blighty since last November?

Google revealed I may have burst a blood vessel in the eye, pain I can tolerate as long as I know as it will end. Eyes heal quickly. Another legging layer would not be out of place, where was Howard? He has a pair at home, never worn. Ricky was here without a hat.

Steve managed Breakfast, Hector was keeping the appetite intact, the Curry House was visited twice on my last Trip to Praha, it had to be the place to eat first thing today. The Man from Bradford had another idea. He was due to meet me at the Curry House but found a cheaper deal at Prague’s only Sri Lankan Restaurant. Steve had Breakfast, he would amuse himself until summoned.

How the four of us ended up at the Curry House is written. It was now time for The Holden Tour to continue. Tram 10 from Palmovka to Kobylisy (spotting Indian – Happy Tandoor en route) where there was also a Metro Station, also connecting with Bus 200 to the outskirts of Praha. Pivovar Sedivak was the objective.

Alighting at the appropriate stop, it still took Google Maps to pinpoint our intended locus, yes, Pivovar U Sedivaka is located at the bottom of a block of flats and also goes by another name. With two versions of Pivovar Sedivak already in use, why give a third? Why not? Pivnice Grey – the name used by Google Maps until Hector stepped in.

The first thing that hit us on entry was the – Fug – one often discusses how bad – the old days were in Pubs – there were only a dozen or so customers in the L-shaped venue, but each and every one was engaged in – the thoughtless habit. Just what Hector‘s runny eye needed.

The Waitress came over after a few moments. Hausbier – was asked for by The Rickmeister who was so chuffed with himself for getting us here. He was effusive about – Holden Tours. On Hector’s Horrible Holidays, smoking is not tolerated.

The Pivovar Sedivak (10°) is an Unfiltered, Light Bier. That it was not sweet at all, gave Ricky more to boast about. When the dry after-taste kicked in he was on a roll.

Hector’s moment came when the Lovely Braufrau appeared and the photo was captured. She told us she had created the Recipe for the Dark Pivo on offer, we had to try it.

At 14° the Cerne (Dark) had more body than the alternative and was again not Sweet. The reality is: all Dry Pivo can be appreciated, enjoyed even.

Due to the time getting out here, the sun had long since set when it became time to leave. Was it actually warmer than when we arrived? Hector would have put us all on the Metro at Koblisy, The Rickmeister insisted on a Tram. Alighting at Charles Bridge there was an attempt at recording the moment. The snow was falling thick and fast, confirming it was warmer, enough to bring the UK to a standstill.

U Dobrenskych was our next venue. Hector was here briefly in October 2015, the Bier was sweet, smoking totally spoiled the visit. I suggested we take a table in the lower room where I believed the air remained clean.

Having studied what was on offer, for Hector it had to be the Salvia Stout, Ricky too. Stewart took the Lemongrass Ale option. Despite telling Steve enough times, he would still go for the Tribulus. Or would he?

Such was the time taken to be served, and the number of times The Chap serving passed us, ignoring us each time, we nearly walked. Even after the Order was given, walking was still considered. He was – Slow!

The Salvia Stout (14° / 6.0%) was so much better than the Tribulus, it wisnae’ sweet. A full bodied Stout, this I believe would be the Bier to have here. Stewart passed his Lemongrass Ale around, no thanks. Meanwhile Steve pretty much hated his Bier. It was too sweet. Someone should have told him.

One Bier was enough, it could have taken all night to get another. Back outside the snow had stopped, however, the streets were ankle deep. Next stop should have been Pražský most u Valsu. We found it easily, but not the door. Eliminating the obvious we entered a business entrance well round the corner. A Reception was underway, not for us evidently. A Private Party, next time.

Pivovar Narodni was not far to walk and did not take long despite the underfoot conditions. My visit here in 2015 was all too brief, the Bier not that impressive. It was still early evening, had we travelled more than we had consumed Bier? Upstairs to the one free table which would accommodate us.

Expectations were not high, the house-branded Czech Lion – Lezak – Nefiltinovany – (11°) had been sampled on my first albeit brief visit. Steve took one sip, the expression on his face said it all. Hector’s turn – Diacytl – this was horrific. As a Brewer, Stewart was forgiving, methinks Ricky was not bothered. If we were staying it had to be something different.

Christmas Monkey (14°) was advertised everywhere as the current Seasonal. With Amarillo Hops and a full body, it tasted way better than the Lezak, but that was not difficult.

It was about time we found a truly worthwhile Pivo this day. Ricky had never been to the Beer Museum at Namesti Miru, he was scathing about the Original due to being – the smokiest place in Praha. The Master of the Tram found a suitable conveyor outside Pivovar Narodni, Namesti Miru here we come.

It’s expensive here – was a fair comment. Having to walk through the smoky bar to reach the non-smoking larger room still mystified.

Lucky Bastard Pale – APA – American Pale Ale at 5.2% was the Bier which spoke to The Hector from the Menu. This Unfiltered Pivo was too thin, a higher abv would surely bring out the Hops? In the end, a Hop Blast of sorts, was achieved.

There may have been many Biers to choose from here , but nothing on the List really stood out. There are better prices and better venues.

It was a short walk across the Square to Pivnice Nabidka, better known as 20 PIP Craft Beer Pub. The air was clean, the place was stowed. Stairs beside the Bar led to a Mezzanine, possibly an upstairs proper. We were told there was no space. Tables and stools were cobbled together, the four were seated.

Roddiny pivovar Zichovec – Mosaic Ale – (12° / 5.5%) hit the spot instantly. Full of Hops, a sensible strength, this was for us, a great session ale. There was more.

Noting that some people had come downstairs and not returned, I did the necessary and went upstairs to verify the availability of a table with four chairs. Checking back downstairs with the Barman and Waiter who had served us, I conveyed that we were going upstairs, with our Tab. More Bier, and maybe some more again. This was the Bier we had been looking for all day.

There was an incident when it came time to leave. The Chap serving us upstairs was not bringing us a Bill. We went downstairs to pay. The staff had lost all track of our tally. Ricky informed them that if they could not come up with a sensible number we were off. We wanted to pay, they still didn’t want money. In the end a compromise was reached, money changed hands. Staff stupidity aside, this is an excellent venue.

Ricky and Stewart disappeared to their cheap and remote domicile. Hector and Steve were served by the Metro, home in minutes, and back to our Night Bar at U Medvidku. Pivni Bar – is the official name of this venue.

Hector was last out of Pivni Bar, never fear, the Hotel Reception serves Residents.

More Old Gott, more photos. Tomorrow we will be two. Hector will be leading the way. Had I spotted the junction near which Pivovar U Bulovky is located from our Tram up to Koblisy this afternoon?

Day Three links from here

The Breweries and Bars visited today:

Pivovar U Sedivaka – Lodžská 765/15, 181 00 Praha 8-Bohnice, Czechia

Pivovar Dobrenskych – U Dobrenských 3, Praha 1 – Staré Mesto

Pivovar Narodni -Národní 8, Praha 1 – Nové Mesto

Prague Beer Museum at Namesti Miru – Americká 341/43, Praha 2 – Vinohrady

Pivnice Nabidka 20 PIP Craft Beer Pub – Slezska 1357/1, Prague 120 00

U Medvidku – Na Perštýne 7, Praha 1 – Staré Mesto

Posted in Praha - Prague | 1 Comment

Praha – Three Days in January 2017 – Day 1

Posted on January 10, 2017 by Hector

Mr. O’Leary’s timetable meant that Hector was collected by Steve at 05.00 in time for our dawn flight to Praha. We arrived at our hotel – U Medvidku – before Noon, officially 14.00 was the check-in time. The Receptionist could not have been more helpful. Our rooms would be ready shortly, meanwhile we were invited to have a – Welcome Pivo. Well, we were staying in a Brewery! It was good to be in from the cold, Praha in January, -4°C on arival, dropping to -14°C by tonight.

Old Gott – Barique – at 5.2% was the first of what will no doubt be many Biers consumed over the next three days. Sweeter than one is used to, it had the body, no need to rush.

The room keys were forthcoming, up to the second floor it was. Quality accommodation indeed, a huge room with some interestingly named soaps provided.

U Medvidku is located metres from Narodni Metro Station which has been the focal point of many visits, from here I can find my bearings. It was deemed better to walk to my ritual first port of call – Novometsky Pivovar. Pivo and Chicken Wings, it has to be. The choice of Bier was Light or Dark, Novometsky Lezak at 11° has been enjoyed more and more over the years. Despite being just under the 5.0% mark, this Bier is full bodied, tasty and only a slight sweetness.

The Chicken Wings were more numerous but smaller cuts than I have been served over the years; with the Garlic Mayo, still something to savour. The Waiter offered us another Bier, tempting, but The Man from Bradford was nearby. Interestingly, the price of our Bier at Novometsky Pivovar was significantly discounted because we had ordered food, an excellent idea.

Go to Krizokova and turn left – was Mr. Holden’s instructions on how to get to Hostinec U Tunelu, which left? Google Maps can be very useful. After a couple of blocks and we could see a tunnel under the hill ahead, U Tunelu, just outside the tunnel, to where?

Ricky and Stewart arrived in Praha yesterday, it was sheer coincidence that our Trip would overlap by two days. Indeed, I was receiving texts yesterday to arrange a rendezvous for a Pub in Mala Strana. You’ll have a long wait – was my reply.

Seven Biers were on Tap at U Tunelu, all from Pivovar Konrad. IQ Nefiltr (11° / 4.8%) was recommended. Blond, but relatively clear for an unfiltered Bier, it was too sweet. When Ricky ordered food, there was the Opperchancity to have another Pivo. Spytihnev (14° / 6.0%) was full bodied, less sweet, a very decent Bier. I was warming to the Pivo and the venue. Ricky had also spotted that the Bier was discounted here also when food was ordered. One wonders how widely this is the case in Praha.

Being out of the City Centre, the pavements were still covered in ice. We took care walking back to the Metro, Jiriho z Podebrad was our destination Metro stop, but to which venue? BeerGeek? Fine with Hector.

Hector was here fourteen months ago as part of my two days spent with Fred Waltman. Being late afternoon BeerGeek was much quieter, I took the same table as I secured last time, from here one can see all.

Permon – Hopper Sorache Ace – (15° /6.3%) with an IBU of 50 was most comforting. There is strong, pale, hoppy Bier in Czechia, one just has to persevere. Sorachi Ace I now know is a Japanese hybrid Hop.

The electronic board featured Falkon – Double Idiot – at 9.3%, but who would order a Bier at this strength, this early in the day? Time to move on.

Trusting Mr. Holden can be dodgy at best. When he announced we were going to Dno Pytle next, all was well. Dno Pytle impressed greatly on my last visit. We took the Tram one stop down Vinohradska, it was slightly warmer in the Tram than the street, the temperature was plummeting. Entering Dno Pytle felt like going home. Mein Host was in situ, I enquired about Bier vom Faß, why was our entire conversation conducted in Deutsch, spontaneous. Mein Host has access to Bier from Franconia, two Barrels were cooling in the fridge. He did not take too much persuasion, one was tapped.

Fred told me that on Fridays, Bier from Löwenbräu-Butteneheim is served. What we were being served today remained a mystery for a few moments longer.

Lauterbachter (Lauterbach, Bayern) Nostradamus Doppelbock at a mere 9.0% had a well rounded flavour, was most certainly full bodied, and not at all sweet. Lauterbach lies between Augsburg and Ingolstadt, this was a new Brauhaus for The Hector.

Having put this on – for us – we had to have more. Dno Pytle filled up, the back rooms were occupied, there were more than enough customers to justify the Barrel. Eventually it was time to come down off the mountain, back to Czech Pivo. Beskydsky pivovarek – Lissa Huera IPA – (14° / 6.3%) had the Hops, Summit, Amarillo, Premiant to be precise. This was a great, hoppy, session ale in comparison to what came before. Seriously dry, grapefruit started to come through, Hector’s top lip was dripping. This was a Bier, we had more.

Things were becoming silly, Ricky announced that he and Stewart would have to take their leave having started so early. Steve and Hector had also started early with our – welcome drink – at U Medvidku.

Having been taken around today on – The Holden Tour – it was time for Hector to step up. The Tram stop was directly outside Dno Pytle.

We’ll take the first Tram that comes, as long as it doesn’t cross the river we’ll be ok.

As the Tram crossed the River Vltava, Hector decided we had better alight. The first Tram back took us to the Metro at Staromestka. Changing at Mustek for the second, or third, time today, we came to realise that the walk to take Line A to Narodni was longer than just alighting at Mustek and walking to Narodni.

The Night Bar at U Medvidku was the magnet. I have wanted to visit this for years, Unfiltered Budvar is what I believed I had seen advertised in the past. So, another Old Gott variant it was.

We took a table inside the Copper, crazy. Steve and Hector had lasted the day well, fuelled only by Chicken Wings.

Day Two follows here.

The Breweries and Bars visited today:

U Medvidku – Na Perštýne 7, Praha 1 – Staré Mesto

Novometsky Pivovar – Vodickova 20, Praha 1 – Nové Mesto

Hostinec U Tunelu – Thámova 396/1, 186 00 Praha 8-Karlín

BeerGeek – Vinohradska 988/62, Praha 3 – Zizkov

Dno Pytle – Vinohradská 1485/63, Praha 2 – Vinohrady

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Berlin – Stone Brewing – The Second of Two November Days

Posted on November 19, 2016 by Hector

With the day to ourselves, Hector was able to plan accordingly. We headed down the hill from Ibis Mitte to Alexanderplatz passing the Berlin Hofbräuhaus, the plan was to rendezvous here with Steve and Louise later. Firstly Marg had to be kept happy. I suggested the Hackescher Markt where there are a variety of suitable venues. Marg declared that if she didn’t visit the Brandenburg Gate then she would not consider herself as having been to Berlin. We walked along Unter den Linden from Friedrichstrasse, as ever there there was a congregation. What puzzles is how often the access through the Arches is blocked off, 10k runs, concerts, today something Turkish. Still, we walked across to – The West – because one can.

The Berlin Airlift

The U6 was boarded south to Platz der Luftbrücke, other U Bahn Lines are available. This Square was considered to be the ideal starting place to explore Flughafen Berlin-Tempelhof. Still unsure about what to expect, we were at the side of the massive terminal before it was realised that all of this construction was so. Boldly we walked in towards the Terminal, a Cafe was signposted, a dead end, Umleitung. A ramp disappeared into the bowels of the complex, it may be from here that the assembled Fighters emerged and went straight into battle in the latter months of WW2.

Airside is now a Park, nefarious activities were underway. For a Saturday the area was quiet, the winter gloom couldn’t have helped. Standing in the middle of the main runway was another Historic Moment. The Berlin population had a referendum in 2014 in order to decide what to do with this extensive open space on the south of the City Centre, the result, to leave it as is.

The U6 was re-boarded at Alt-Tempelhof and taken to Alt-Mariendorf, the end of the line. From here it was a fifteen minute walk westwards along the Ring Road to the Old Gasworks. Stone Brewing is located in what is now an Industrial Estate. The building is a conversion, the Interior Designer had a field day, this is Bier Disneyland.

The venue is huge and has diverse seating with rooms off. We selected a table which was booked at 19.00, a couple of hours for a couple of Biers should be sufficient. The IPA (6.9%) was first sampled at Open Baladin in Roma earlier this year, this was a must. To start with 6.9% felt daunting, Stone Go To IPA (4.7%) was therefore the first choice. With an IBU of 65, this was Absolutely Stunning. The Light Body, Dark Gold Unfiltered Bier hit the Hector Palate with a Vengeance. If one was here for a session, then this would be a worthy recommendation. However, time was at a premium, the IPA had to be had At Source. With an outrageous IBU of 77 this was more Bitter than the Go To IPA, but lacked the depth of flavour. This had the Body.

Meanwhile Marg, drinking wine, had ordered a couple of Starters to keep us otherwise amused. The Hot Olives were a new experience, the Dips worked well. The portions were Small, the prices were High. Indeed The Bill was on a par with what we paid for dinner soon afterwards at Swera, a Curry Haus. €6.90 a half litre is Pricey, and here we were At Source. Why can House Breweries not follow the example set by Cantillon (Brussel, Belgium) where prices at the Brewery are Discounted, Significantly?

We could have exited to the north and taken a faster S Bahn back to Mitte, however, releasing that Kreuzberg had a Cluster of Curry Houses, we returned on the U6 once more to Platz der Luftbrücke which was nearest to Swera from the South. Afterwards we headed North to Mehringdamm. We did pass a potentially other good outlet – Craft Bier – on this stretch, one for another trip. Kreuzberg may be a good place to reside, there’s plenty happening here.

And so back to Alexanderplatz and the Berlin Hofbräuhaus. Those with the habit were draussen, Bouncers were also outside on this damp, chilly night. Hector used his Deutsch to convince the Chaps we had friends already inside. The Greeters at Reception let us go no further. Without a Reservation things are difficult, and this is November, what must it be like in the Summer? Go online and book! After a few minutes we convinced a Doris that a table for four should be allocated, we were marched to the rear of the Large Bierhalle, past the Band, to a table occupied by a couple from Newcastle. Ein Mass Helles (5.1%) was ordered, Marg stuck with wine. Deutsche Bier is Sweeter than Craft, but at €8.40 per litre, quaffable, a Session Bier.

The layout of this Hofbräuhaus impressed. The raised and divided seating areas resembled the Festzelt at Wiesen. With an allocated Waitress, there was never a problem getting served, a worthy setup. The Newcastle Two departed once they had finished their meal. A Waiter rested a tray of Bayerische Cuisine on the end of our table, no way. Who could eat that?

Steve and Louise did not get past the Bouncers. Eventually I felt vibration in my pocket, Marg went out to fetch them. And so The Party began. We were permitted two, enough, especially given the plan for the next few days. The Ladies had Ice Cream, and why not?

Marg led the singing, people danced in front of the Band, the whole room of hundreds having a good time. Why is the UK mentality such that this would never work in Blighty without mayhem every shift?

Footnote:

On Sunday morning, Steve and Hector waved goodbye to Marg and Louise at Alexanderplatz, they headed to Schönefeld for their flight home. Steve and Hector? A train from Berlin Hauptbahnhof to Poznan (€19.00). How did we get away with this?

The outlets visited today:

Stone Brewing World Bistro & Gardens – Im Marienpark 23, 12107 Berlin

Hofbräu Wirtshaus Berlin – Karl-Liebknecht-Str. 30, 10178 Berlin

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Berlin – Bräuerei Vagabund – The First of Two November Days

Posted on November 18, 2016 by Hector

In recent years, those who have been fortunate enough to work at a certain Independent School in the West of Scotland have enjoyed an ad hoc Holiday in the middle of November. In November there are no Bank or Other Holidays, it’s a long drag from October until the Festive Season. And so it shall be again next year. This was apparently Marg’s last Opperchancity for a November City Break until she too retires.

Marg, Hector, Steve and Louise embarked on the 07.25 flight to Berlin, an early rise but better than having to travel through to Edinburgh which happens too often for sensible destinations in Central Scotland. Edinburgh Airport, don’t start me.

We checked in to the Ibis Mitte just after noon, we would have two full days. Bier!

Not yet

President Obama was in Berlin today, however he made a fast exit as we entered our lunchtime venue. Lunch at Alexanderplatz was a modest affair, Pasta for Louise and Hector, Marg had Soup (only?), Steve had Curry Wurst, really. If we were away with The Company there would have been a cry for Bier thereafter. Not today. It was wet, unpleasant, a good day to go underground.

In 1992, Kenneth and Hector stood on what was once No Man’s Land near the Brandenburg Gate, speculating on a mound as to where the Bunker of a distant relative may have been. Not here – the Locals said. Such things have been sensitive. Now there is Unterwelten, an organised Bunker tour under Gesundbrunnen Bahnhof. We arrived just after 14.30 in time to buy the last four tickets for the English Speaking Tour at 15.00. This gave us enough time to cross the road and go into the park where the remains of the Humboldthain Flak Tower still stand. We climbed to the top, did the necessary and were back in time for what became an amazing afternoon.

The Guide was English with a mysterious lilt, Aussie? He knew his stuff, spoke quickly, moved the group of some twenty five from room to room, always with a commentary for each locus which always surprised.

It is uncanny that in the week I saw the excellent movie – Arrival – I should find myself in a German Air Raid Shelter, the connection? Slaughterhouse 5.

No photos were permitted, Copyright, the exhibits in the cases do not belong to the Tour Company. In one showcase was what looked like a beaten up typewriter. When asked if anyone knew what this was, there was a moments silence before the Voice of Authority spoke up.

Enigma!

Marg was proud of Hector. I had never seen this coding device in the flesh, as it were.

The end of the tour showed photos of Berlin’s underground reservoirs, Breweries were re-located here too, this put us in the mood, as if… For a Chap who said he did not drink Bier, the Guide put the Craft Scene in perspective. Put Bier in fancy (Small) Bottles, call it – Craft – and charge more.

Bier O’Clock

It just so happens that Gesundbrunnen is one stop on the S Bahn from Wedding, an area The Company have stayed in often, Eschenbräu being the local attraction. Wedding has a new and welcomed addition to make this – Garden Suburb – all the more worth visiting – Vagabund.

Bellevue, which disappeared years ago, was the only Hausbräuerei in Berlin where I have found the Bier to be palatable. The rest serve Bier which tastes Home-made, the clue was in the name I suppose. Vagabund is one of the new regime of Deutsches Bräuerei which use New World Hops. Rheinheitsgebot?

Located in a shop halfway along a street of tenements, Vagabund is little more than a Shop. Somebody has been to Polska. The Board had four Tap Biers on offer, and a decent selection of Biers from around the World in a well-stocked fridge. The prices of the Imported Bottled Bier were astronomical, even allowing for Brexit.

The American Pale Ale was listed as being 5.2%, not the 4.7% reported elsewhere. Still, the American Pale Ale was a sensible strength to kick off what is going to be an intense few days, just wait until Monday. This Amber Ale had a Citrus flavour and belied the reported IBU of 30. It was far from Sweet, and so totally unlike Mainstream Deutsche Bier. It hit the spot.

The Double IPA at 7.5% was a completely different affair with Cascade, Columbus, Centennial, and Summit Hops, an IBU of 60. A Dark Gold, Hazy and Full Bodied Bier, this could be dangerous. It did not drink at 7.5%, so beware. The Bier impressed, the t-shirts were a sensible price, the Ladies were hungry, we had to leave. Hector had been to Wedding and had not visited Eschenbräu, times they are a changing.

The U6 goes straight from Seestrasse to Kochstrasse, which is metres from Berlin’s Augustiner outlet. It’s as if somebody had planned this day out. We had to queue for a table for no more than five minutes then a Chap took the entire queue through to a back room.

See what the Boys in the Backroom will have

Edelstoff (Augustiner, München, Bayern) was why we were here, one of the finest (5.9%) Helles there is. To eat? Steve mentioned Schweinhaxe. Why did Hector think even for a moment that a Schweinhaxe was the food of Choice? Perhaps because it is years since I tackled one, maybe to see if the appetite has truly returned. I did my best.

There was still a lot of Meat left on my plate when I waved the White Flag. Marg asked for a single Wiener Schnitzel her wish was granted. More Edelstoff, and some more just to make sure. All that Pork had to be washed down.

The outlets visited today:

Vagabund Bräuerei – Antwerpener Str. 3, 13353, Berlin

Augustiner am Gendarmenmarkt – Charlottenstraße 55, 10117 Berlin

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Forchheim – The Greif Bockbieranstich

Posted on November 5, 2016 by Hector

The plan for today was simple: visit the Brauerei Ausschanks in Forchheim then go to Hirchaid for the Bock which was superb last year. Steve might even join us if his flight was on time. It was Lunchtime when we discovered that Steve had flown to München and not Nürnberg. At least we knew he was staying in Bamberg tonight, not Buttenheim. He would complete – The Five – later.

A Dreich Saturday afternoon, a good day to be in the Pub. Neder was first, their Fassbier/Kellerbier at 4.9% is not too demanding. The first of the day takes a while. Again, no hurry, there is the potential of another big night ahead. The few metres to Hebendanz was still about dodging the rain.

Entering the Ausschank we were surprised to find the place empty and laid out for a party. Every table was Reserved. As Mein Host muttered something in Deutsch my phone rang, Hassan (Cafe Salma) from Casablanca. The Chaps managed to establish that we could have Bier if we departed before 19.00, not a problem.

The Export Hell at 5.0% was a small step in the right direction. Other people were allowed to come in, a strange experience. We’re closed but you can come in, effectively. Why else would there have been staff present? I could have done with some staff at Hotel Schuberths am Schloss yesterday afternoon.

Dr. Stan mentioned – Eichhorn – Forchheim‘s other Brauhaus. For Hector the memory of this was a more upmarket Restaurant than a Ausschank, I had not been impressed. Jonathan had also mentioned that Greif, who closed their premises adjacent to Neder and Hebendanz a few years back but have an Ausschank at the Brewery itself – closed at 14.00 today. This was much further from the Bahnhof anyway and would require at taxi if we had ever intended going there. I was persuaded that – Eichhorn – was worth another try. This was also different premises.

Vollbier (4.9%) – Golden Promise came to mind. This was Dry, Pleasant and had a good body. I could have been tempted to have another, but by now we knew we were definitely meeting Steve in Hirschaid. I asked a Chap at the adjacent table to take a Group Photo. There were sighs of despair from my own table.

Meet Frank, son of the Annafest Organiser, a well known Chap in Forchheim. He was quick to tell us that tonight was the Greif Tapping, he was on his way. We thought we had better go and have a look.

As with last night in Buttenheim, the Ausschank had extra exterior accommodation in place for the night. The Bockbier (6.6%) could either be bought indoors or out. We had no chance of a seat, but had a spot as long as it didn’t rain. It didn’t, much.

Frank introduced us to Martin; we became Celebrity Bier-Travellers from Scotland. Steve was contacted – Take the train back to Forchheim and a taxi Greif. We stayed for as long as sense prevailed. Steve, who was in greater need of sleep, went for a train. Eventually it was time for a taxi. One would have thought this locus would have been a Honeypot. Only having walked back to the town centre did we secure a taxi back to Buttenheim, €22.00.

The Löwenbräu Ausschank was still – sort of open – Doris was serving Bottles only. Hansi, Mein Host, sat with us, one for the room was provided.

Jonathan has booked rooms for himself, Alan, Dr. Stan and Hector next year.

We’ll be back.

The Breweries and Brewery Taps visited today:

Hebendanz – Sattlertorstr. 14, 91301, Forchheim

Neder – Sattlertorstr. 18, 91301, Forchheim

Eichhorn – Bamberger Str. 9, 91301 Forchheim

Brauerei Greif – Serlbacher Str. 10, 91301, Forchheim

Löwenbräu-Buttenheim – Marktstrasse 8, Buttenheim, D-96155

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Bamberg – via Nürnberg – The Löwenbräu Bockbier Tapping 2016

Posted on November 4, 2016 by Hector

It’s a long way from Glasgow to Bamberg no matter which mode of transport one uses in terms of time taken. Last year Dr. Stan and I did the Marathon Trek with Eurostar, nights in Brussel and Düsseldorf. Mr. O’Leary provided a new route which was too tempting and actually only commenced this week. The price was right.

The Tapping of Löwenbräu-Buttenheim Bockbier is the first Friday in November at 18.00, this necessitated flying out yesterday from Manchester to Nürnberg, spending the night at the latter. It was known that Alan and I would arrive in Buttenheim first today, nobody told us we were both in Nürnberg last night. Not much happened.

Hütt’n did not have the wonderful IPA that was on offer last year. Nor did they have the advertised Hopfenphlucker (Pyraser, Pyras, Bayern) which I have only ever had in bottles at Glasgow’s Allison Arms. The Hausbier had to do. Hütt’n Hausbrauerei Hell at 5.2% is unfiltered and shocked the palate. One is used to Bier/Piwo full of Hops, the Sweetness was inevitable on the Hector Palate, but not worryingly so. Somewhere else was called for.

Across the street lies Hausbrauerei Altstadthof whose Biers I have sampled over the years, none have impressed. The Hell (4.8%) was served in a 0.4l glass, this is still Bayern, why the smaller glass? As with Hütt’n, the Bier was remarkably Warm for a November evening. It was also close to freezing outside. Again unfiltered, the Sweetness here was less, or was the palate adjusting?

Anyway, this was not the Bar I was looking for. I recalled a Bar around here which sold Bier from a range of local breweries. Dr. Stan was contacted, I wanted the Original Hütt’n. This was located in a parallel street and is now called Nürnberger Alm.

The half dozen or so customers were crowded near the Bar, I asked for the Bier Karte, Doris provided. A Kellerbier looked the best option, once again a Hausbier. A Dark Gold this was fine, I was still not finding it as Dry on the palate as I would expect a Kellerbier to be.

Doris seemed determined that I stay for more, in three Bars I had seen around a dozen people in total, it was a quiet night in Nürnberg, time to go home, Big Day coming.

This morning I heard from Alan whom I believed was already in Buttenheim. He was near enough was having left Nürnberg early and managed to check in early too. I predicted I would arrive around 15.00, technically I could not check-in until 17.00. Hector had other Business en route. There was no way I was passing through Erlangen and not stopping off for Curry-Heute. I was pleased to find an empty large locker on Platform 1, how efficient and economical lockers are.

At 15.00 I entered Hotel Schuberths am Schloss. There was nobody there, no Reception. 17.00? Aye right. I saw a key, was it for me? I noticed the Breakfast times posted, below was a phone-number. Moments later I was in my room, if I hadn’t called…

At 15.30, Alan was standing outside the Löwenbräu Ausschank as arranged. On entering the usual group of Locals were occupying most of the tables. I had been programmed to arrange a table for four people at 18.30. We had to eat before our night of Mayhem, sorry, Merry-making. Acknowledging All, Hansi, Mein Host, turned around from his game of cards. The corner table was empty but Reserved. He gestured towards it.

By the time we had our first Lagerbier (4.8%), we had this table booked also. It was then that two of the Locals whose Stammtisch this was sat with us. We interacted briefly.

I have been drinking this Lagerbier at this venue since 1997, it remains Dry despite the changes in Bier styles enjoyed in the interim. Alan and I were taking it very easily. We still had our second when Dr. Stan arrived exactly at the time we had worked out best on optimum train from Brussel. He had made his connections with moments to spare. Jonathan phoned to say he was on schedule for Dinner but then ran into traffic.

Just after 18.30 we were assembled, Deutsche Essen. How can they eat this?

We vacated our table and took up position outside. The Bockbier (6.3%) is served in a room which may only be used once a year. No way was this Bockbier – Sweet. Perhaps a Slight Sweetness in the After-taste. Some of us worry seriously if the day will come when we have to stop drinking Deutsche Bier. Not yet.

Last year, Jonathan and Hector stood outside in t-shirts, not tonight. Hector had to return to the hotel for all the layers. It was then we managed to get a table inside. The same Musician was performing again tonight. His guitar playing, foot switches, and other boxes of Goodies mean that he can play any style of Musik, even Good Stuff. We were treated to Traditional Bier Haus songs, Pop, Schlager. Last year he played requests, later.

More Bockbier was had, it was going down too easily. Suddenly a Woman is beside Jonathan hugging him, kisses too, wtf? She knew Jonathan and Dr. Stan from having attended over the years. The level of madness had taken new steps upwards. Time for some Hector requests. I put a list of possible numbers that could be played. This year no Sierra Madre, I’m sure we had Smoke on the Water last year. Another Shameless Opperchancity to mention – Bittigheim-Bissingen.

Smoke on the water

Country Roads

Lola

Vitamin C

Rosamunde

Country Roads was played, time to phone Clive, who is still alive. He was not amused. Rosamunde was next, much swaying at tables. Success.

It was 02.43 when Hector called it a night last year. Jonathan was determined to get to bed ealier. Dr. Stan and Alan departed soon after midnight. A group of of Chaps sat at the adjacent table, before we knew it, two had joined us – Hello again, Tobias and Timo!

We had chatted to them late last year. They had had another year to improve their English, whilst my Deutsch has declined through lack of usage. Two Students who appreciate what they have in their region. So much for an early night. Hector was nearly last out.

The Breweries and Bars visited Thursday-Friday:

Hütt’n – Bergstraße 20, 90403 Nürnberg, Deutschland

Hausbrauerei Altstadthof – Bergstraße 19, 90403 Nürnberg

Nürnberger Alm – Burgstraße 19, 90403 Nürnberg

Löwenbräu-Buttenheim – Marktstrasse 8, Buttenheim, D-96155

Posted in Nürnberg, Buttenheim | 1 Comment

Crawley – The Clive’s Not Dead Yet Party

Posted on October 8, 2016 by Hector

Today marked Hector’s third trip to Crawley in the last couple of months. In mid August, Lady Maggie phoned with devastating news, Lord Clive of Crawley had had a major heart attack, the prognosis was not good.

Last month, en route to Brussel, Hector had Ales with Lord Clive and Lady Maggie at Frogshole Farm and the Brewery Shades. Clive’s recovery has been remarkable, that is an understatement.

By 17.00, a significant cohort from Glasgow had arrived in Crawley. When Hector joined The Company at the Brewery Shades, Lord Clive had gone home to prepare for the evening at the Goffs Park Club. Dark Star’s (Partridge Green, West Sussex) Green Hopped IPA has featured prominently this week. This Outstanding – grapefruit in a glass – at a mere 6.5% was the Session Ale in the State Bar, Glasgow on Wednesday night. Here we go again…

Hector had time for one. With our respective spouses busy elsewhere, Hector had made plans with Debs for Curry-Heute at the best source of Curry in Crawley – The Downsman. Curry may be the attraction the Real Ale on offer here is too traditional, Strongbow (Bulmers/Heineken) was the accompaniment.

Around 20.00, The Company was complete at Goffs, all guests had to be ticked off the list on entry. We were upstairs; as non-members, plastic glasses were mandatory. The Fear of The Weegie?

Jonathan had fetched 30l of Pyraser Landbier (Pyras, Bayern) and 10l of Mühlen Kölsch (Mühlen, Köln, Nordrhein Westphalen, Deutschland) after our trip to Wolf last month. At Wolf we were given a Bottle of Sekt to take away after demolishing a few at one stall, this was here too. A Polypin of Harveys Best (Harveys, Lewes, West Sussex, England) was arranged by Clive, The Company knew what we would be drinking this evening.

Knowing quite a few of The Crawley Company, it was an Opperchancity to catch up. I may have only met Phil’s Lady once before. Niall took up position at the corner of the Bar as he does at The Swan. Colin with arm in sling, stayed near the door all night. Martin and Liz reminded me of a famous couple at Uerige in Düsseldorf.

Ross – The Son of Clive -, who was part of the ex-Army Group who rowed across the Atlantic earlier this year, introduced me to his Girlfriend. Had I ever spoken to Ross’ Sister – Kally – before? Tina, their Mother, I had not seen since Clive’s 50^th Birthday Bash in Köln, ah the Singing Nun, who was not a Stripper…

All those who have ever been to Wolf were assembled for a photo including Locals – John and Jean. Jonathan presented the Sekt to Clive and Maggie who for obvious reasons did not make it this year. Next year…

A Buffet appeared, Hector was still full of Curry, just one Mini Sausage Roll? Our Company was relatively subdued early on. The DJ was playing Mellow Musik, quietly.

When the 1970s happened I know not, even The Hector was on the dance-floor for a minute until it was realised there was too long a gap before the next – good bit. There was no stopping Craig – London Calling.

Jim produced a Bottle of Schnapps, Aileen was busy telling off her young brother, Alan. The Goffs’ Staff, who were Excellent, providing Plastic Shots Glasses.

The Mühlen was finished, the Pyraser was finished, the night was drawing to a close, or was it?

Around Midnight

Some took taxis, some walked, it was past Craig and Yvonne’s bedtime; nearly time for the Budgie Cage Cover anyway. Those still standing re-assembled at the Brewery Shades. David and Alison had missed the Party, they joined us. More Green Hopped IPA, then Closing Time.

(And thanks to the Staff here for finding, and looking after, my backup charger.)

The Bar, Restaurant-Bar and Social Club visited today:

Brewery Shades – 85 High St, Crawley, West Sussex RH10 1BA

The Downsman Curry Club – Wakehurst Drive, Southgate, Crawley, RH10 6DH

Goffs Park Club – Old Horsham Rd., Crawley, West Sussex, RH11 8PE

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Belgium – Brussel – It’s about time I posted a day out here

Posted on September 14, 2016 by Hector

15.00 at Brasserie Cantillon, that was the arrangement with Dr. Stan. The 10.58 Eurostar from St. Pancras arrived at Brussel Zuid at 14.05, on schedule. This gave sufficient time to negotiate the indifferent check-in at Hotel Aviation and mop the brow. To say it was unseasonally warm would be an understatement. 32ºC in mid-September is not the norm.

Hotel Aviation only has one redeeming feature, its proximity to the station, the competitive price for a single room, and its proximity to Cantillon. That’s three redeeming features, it is not air conditioned, but is remarkably quiet.

It was exactly 15.00 when Hector turned the handle at Brasserie Cantillon, if one didn’t know one would assume it was closed, the exterior belies what lies within. No Dr. Stan, just an American couple drinking what looked like the Peach. It was Kriek for Hector, as Sour as Bier can be. €9.00 for the bottle is an absolute giveaway compared to what is charged in Brussel’s Bars. Don’t even think about ordering this at home.

We close at 16.00on a Wednesday – Doris advised me as she presented the bottle in its basket, one glass accompanying. Dr. Stan did not arrive until 15.40, there was till time for a bottle of Geuze with two tumblers. Dr. Stan finished the Kriek. One could spend the day here, a wee lie down might be required afterwards. Cantillon Kriek, only surpassed by Hanssens, but the latter only blend I am told, they do not brew.

By 16.05 Mein Host was getting restless. We finished as fast as we could and were escorted off the premises. Tuesday’s Brew had to be dealt with making them extremely busy on a Wednesday, hence the early closing. Do they actually open on a Wednesday in winter?

Hector was last out of Cantillon at 16.10. This makes a change from 04.10.

Moeder Lambic was the next venue. The 46 Bier taps make this a must. Dr. Stan declared we would have the 3.5% mouthwash to get us started. Band of Brothers (Brasserie de la Senne, Belgium) was hoppy but lacked the body. Still, given the heat a good start to the next part of the day. L’amer des Moeder’s (Jandrail Janrenouille, Belgium) is brewed for the Pub. At 6.0% this was more like, truly Dry and Hoppy, what would be considered to be a good Session Bier in Glasgow.

Instinct took us through the Grand Place, past Toone and through the alleys to Delirium Tremens. How quiet it was this Wednesday evening compared to summer and weekend visits. A Pint of a 9.0% Bier may sound like madness, but not where Chouffe Houblon is concerned. This is one of the true Modern Classics, as the name translates, full of Hops, sheer joy. Absolutely no sweetness here. Of course we had another.

Sat at the same table as last November, we were amused by the adjacent photo booth, as were the few who actually put money in. The nearest facilities were downstairs, the Bar here was stowed. I’ll need to establish what the attraction is some time. We could have stayed, but Dr. Stan and Hector had a Brussel Ritual to complete, Draught Kwak (Brouwerij Bosteels, Buggenhout, Belgium) at Toone. 8.4% is nothing.

Entering from the wrong side, two Chaps were in the lane. I heard one say something about a Bar and a Puppet Theatre before they turned back. Oh no you don’t. And so we were joined by Dave and Jorg, an Englishman and a German. Jorg was not drinking, Dave joined the Ritual. The Cheese smothered with Celery Salt was not forthcoming, they had none. We let our displeasure be known. How could this be?

Adjacent to the Manneken Pis is Le Poechenellekelder, Jorg and Dave were still in tow. Never mind the Bier, let’s get the Cheese. The Chap brought the Celery Salt Seller too, what a mistake to make. Methinks I was a bit carried away, the Celery Salt was everywhere, overkill.

Jorg bade us farewell, Dave accompanied us back to Moeder Lambic where it had to be more L’amer des Moeder’s. It was soon time for Dr. Stan to take his leave, Dave was up for more.

The nightcap was another Kriek. The 7.0% Kriek de Ranke (de Ranke, Belgium) was vom Fass and suitably Sour, Superb. It was after midnight, somehow sense prevailed, or was the Pub closing? The outside seating was stacked up beside us, we took the hint.

Back to Hotel Aviation and a good sleep, the wide open windows did help to cool the room. Altbier tomorrow.

The Brewery and Bars visited today:

Brasserie Cantillon – 56 Rue Gheude, Brussel

Moeder Lambic – 8 Place de Fontainas, Brussel

Cafe Delirium – Impasse de la Fidélité 4A

Toone – Impasse Schuddeveld and the Impasse Sainte Pétronille, Brussel

Le Poechenellekelder – Rue du Chêne, 5, 1000 Brussel

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Glasgow Real Ale Festival (G-RAF) 2016 – Day 2

Posted on June 24, 2016 by Hector

Nothing much has happened since the close of Day 1 of the Glasgow Real Ale Festival 2016, the UK has voted to leave the EU, the Prime Minister has given his notice, people being interviewed on TV who voted for Brexit appear to not know why they did, and Mr Farage on Breakfast TV admitted that the money they let the populace believe would be allocated to the NHS never would be. This feels like a good day to sample some Ale.

Arriving to start my shift at 14.00, there was already a worthy collection of Ale Enthusiasts in situ at The Briggait. It is Day 2 of G-RAF, as people finished work so more would arrive, some well kent faces included.

Mid afternoon there was a crowd of Chaps who discovered Trushkar, a 5.0% Black Ale from the Lerwick Brewery in Shetland. Describing it as the best beer they had ever tasted I had to sample it. As one who prefers hoppy ale with a high IBU, this was the antithesis of what I would normally look for. The Trushkar was far from sweet, very smooth, a great surprise. This is what being here is all about. There was still some left late this Friday night.

Mid evening I was set to work at the door taking the entrance money: £6.00 to non-CAMRA members, £4.00 to CAMRA members, returning CAMRA members with their glass can gain access for £2.00. A group of Spaniards came in – We have Spanish Beers, I assured them. They were surprised, but also keen to try new brands. Another Chap asked if the £6.00 entry fee covered all subsequent Beer. Em, no. The hire of The Briggait has to be paid for.

Towards the end of the evening I sampled Jambe de Bois, (8.0%) from De La Senne, Belgium as recommended by Dr. Stan. This was very much in Hector’s style, – a small scale blond – said Colin, more please.