Bier-Traveller

There was talk of hiring a car and driving to the site of Stalag Luft III, pity The Rickmeister did not look at a map before he suggested this, plan abandoned. Instead, there would be a rendezvuous at Van Gogh at 14.30. At least Ricky has found a source of Piwa open before the standard 16.00.

For reasons those who read yesterdays Blog will appreciate, The Hector had no problem getting to sleep last night. Curry-Heute for once did not feel like a good idea either. Perhaps the late night Herring Rollmops had altered the palate, today had to be a Perogi Day.

Tram 8 which goes from the west side of the Train Station was once again the mode of transport to whisk me across town. The Cathedral Island was the chosen tourist destination, I felt I was making good use of the Four day Ticket I had purchased on Sunday, a pity I was here for five.

The Cathedral is not the finest piece of architecture I have ever seen, red brick. If I was more interested I would find out if it was always so. I admired the exterior such as it was and headed back to Stare Miasto. Hector rarely enters buildings which are places of worship, there is no sense of purpose for this commentator. Had I not seen enough Mosques and Temples in India to do me for a while. I am still mentioning The India Trip.

It was only a ten minute walk back across the Warta River  to the northern end of Stare Miasto. The first main junction is where Marg and Hector ended up on Night #2 back in October when Google Maps could not cope with the stretch towards the Ibis where only trams can go, round and round, until we were further away from the Ibis than when we started. Now I have the Inner City sussed.

Crossing Stary Rynek it was pleasing to see a bit of sunshine, I could still have done with some warmth, in mid April one has come to hope for better in Continental Europe, but then the Jet Stream has been too far north for about a decade. Temperatures in Europe are nothing like as warm as they were when the Budget Airlines started taking us away so often, it must be – Global Cooling.

I walked due east out of Stary Rynek and found another pedestrianised street that had not registered previously, maybe I am still learning my way around. The main pedestrian street, Polwiejska is where I was headed. The Zascianek Restauracja is well down on the right towards Stary Browar. Marg and I had Traditional Polish Fayre last visit, the venue intrigues.

One enters and climbs stairs to the main dining room. Eventually one discovers that the facilities are in a lower room. The lower room is vast in comparison to the upstairs, this would make an excellent venue for another Multi-Tap Bar and compliment Fermentownia which is across the way but a good bit from the cluster around Stary Rynek.

Perogi it was, washed won with my usual Sparkling Water. The Dumplings looked poor, deep fried? Reheated? If this was one’s first encounter it would have been off-putting, I know where I shall be having my Perogi next time at – Ratusova. Perhaps by then Zascianek will be a Pub?

Pub Van Gogh, this was a first visit. Ricky and Stewart were already well into a Bier when I entered, so just how early does this place open? Dangerous.

With a mere six taps there was a sense of making do. Two of the taps claimed Hops, a choice.

Chmielarz (Browar Zodiak, Polska) at 6.0% kicked off the afternoon session for Hector.  An amber American Pale Ale, this was definitely in the required style, as the name suggests a Hop-presence and without the nasty aftertaste. We were on our own for most of the visit, people should be at work. A young couple came in for one, we were having two, we out-stayed them. Perhaps the Nutcrackers put them off. Stewart and Ricky had a bag of Walnuts, means various were employed to open them.   Bottled Rowing Jack (6.2%) (Ale Browar, Polska) was Hector’s follow up, Stewart had a taste, his first of what Hector believes is the finest Bier brewed in Polska (currently).

Ricky was determined that we would not return to Chmielnik given the prices. Had Dom Piwa not opened late yesterday, we would have been already. From our table in Van Gogh we could see any shutter activity in Dom Piwa.

Open early and with a view of one of my favourite Poznan Venues, Van Gogh is alright.

I believe I recognised Mein Host in Dom Piwa. We took seats at a high table just off the bar, no stairs would be climbed today. Bottled Rowing Jack (6.2%) (Ale Browar, Polska) it had to be for Stewart. Before today, Stewart had never experienced this Wonderful Bier, he has now.  Lemon Tree (Deer Bear, Polska) at 5.0% was Hector’s choice.  This was an amber, citrus ale, very dry, with grapefruit coming through slowly.

As much as I like Dom Piwa, this is a stepping stone to Piwna Stopa, or even a fallback if the latter s too busy. Simon, Mein Host was there to greet us, time for The Session to begin, proper.

Bier in whiskey Casks?

Spotting The Rickmeister trying to crack a nut, Simon presented a pair of tension pliers. Perfect. These were used to hammer the shells open. It was going to be a long night.

There had to be more Meza (6.5%) IPA (Artezan, Polska). I look forward to finding this on Tap someday.

The XXX Rye Quad Reserva (Struise Browars, Belgium) caused a stir. A 10.0% ale aged in bourbon barrels, this was indeed drinking Bier with a Whiskey flavour. A one off experience, to be shared around.

The Komes Baltic Porter (9.0%) (Browar Fortuna, Polska) had to be experienced by the discerning ale drinkers, Ricky passed on this, Stewart loved it.  Having had a sample yesterday when Simon suggested it to the East Lothian Fraternity, even I had a go despite not being in my preferrred style.  Hector does visit – The Dark Side – when the outcome is something special.

There was Wodka on the table before Russel, Sandy and Leslie showed up. Four Scots and Two Yorkshiremen, potential mayhem.

Before we joined them there was the matter of a football match.  Hibernian scored, Ricky was happy, hopefully not a bad omen for the Scottish Cup Final.

Simon had another new Piwa for Hector to try.  Apartment Six Flakes American IPA (Raduga, Polska) is 6.0% with an IBU of 75.  It is Blond just, with a big Hop Hit, the aftertaste is on the edge of tolerance.

Somewhat predictably we ended up at Pijalnia Wodka I Piwa. For this company it should have been renamed Wodka and Rollmops. No justification was required, we are on a Trip, no Ladies to say it’s time to go home, the prices are so welcoming, then there’s the matter of the Fish. I’ll be back.

Had I told Ricky at the start of the day that we should go to a Bar-Disco he would have balked. Russell led the way to Meta. Hazelnut Wodka, Mmmmm.

After a day on The Hop, Rollmops and Flavoured Wodka, perfect to set you up for tomorrow. I was determined not to be out at 01.00 again, nay problem. It was 02.00 when Taxi Jan was summoned. His English is not wonderful, by this time of night I can speak uninhibited Deutsch. In fact, I had been ordering at the Bar for the last hour in German, I was in the mood.

The Bars and Restaurant visited today:

Zascianek Restauracja  –   Pólwiejska 26, 61-888 Poznan, Polska

Pub Van Gogh –   ul. Zydowska 12, 61-761 Poznan, Polska

Dom Piwa –   2, Mokra 2, 61-766 Poznan, Polska

Piwna Stopa  –  Szewska 7, 61-760 Poznan, Polska

Pijalnia Wódki i Piwa  –  Stary Rynek 85, Poznan, Polska

Meta Seta Galareta Disco  –  Stary Rynek 63, Poznan, Polska

Hector has been in Polska for four days, today there will be company.  Ricky, The Man from Bradford, and Stewart, The Brewer from Ilkley, will finally join The Hector.

Ricky was in touch early this morning informing me that there would be a football match in this city this evening.  Hector had no wish to sit outside and chill, this evening would be Night #5 of Hector Napypals, or would it?

A local publication informed Ricky of a Cheap Curry Lunch at Restauracja Indyiska Shivaz, 14.30 was the agreed rendezvous time.  This still left a couple of hours to wander around Poznan.

Back in October, Hector and Marg scrutinised Stary Browar, The Old Brewery, in search of a cable to charge my camera, no success here, Saturn in the shopping centre at the Train Station has everything.  We did stop for a coffee at Le Targ in Stary Browar, and so this was repeated, same venue, virtually the same table.  As Marg was not here, I thought I had better have some cake just to establish a ritual.

Outside is Polwiejska, a pedestrianised street which connects the south side of the ring road to Stare Miasto.  This could well be the principal shopping street in Poznan, Fermentownia, a Multi-Tap Bar, lies just off.  I checked that it was still there, one for later.

Hellos

I arrived early at Shivaz hoping to reacquaint myself with Mein Host, different staff, no promised discount for The Hector.  I was shocked when Ricky and Stewart both ordered Polish Eurofizz.  Note, I deliberately do not name it.  There are standards, one is either a Real Ale Twat, or one is not.

Knowing that Chmielnik is open before the standard 16.00 Poznan Opening Time, I led The Chaps there through Stary Rynek. The Board looked the same as yesterday. I recommended someone try the Kryz Poludnia (5.%)  NZPA (Browar Reden, Polska) which I had quite enjoyed yesterday.

Oki Doki (4.3%) (Pinta, Polska) was first recommended in C4, Katowice back in 2014. This was the day Marg and Hector saw Pendragon in Polska.  C4 has gone, Pinta has become one of the well established new wave of Polish Brewers.   Suitably Dry and Hoppy, this was a gentle start to the day.

We were sitting in the conservatory at the rear of Chmielnik.  Ricky spotted too that Piwna Stopa lies over the wall at the bottom of the Bier Garden.  Three Chaps sat at a table adjacent, they were speaking English, Pukka English. I was sitting with two Yorkshiremen, there was no interaction, until…

I heard one Chap mention Clydebank, the town where I reside.  I turned round and held up my hand.  I was anticipating a – so what? – there was a brief conversation.

Next, I needed something more demanding in terms of Hops and hence Flavour.  This would not be from The Board, Bottle time.  Hop Sasa (5.0%)  (Ale Browar, Polska) is a particular favourite, can this Brewery do wrong?  The first time I had Hop Sasa was in Krakow also in 2014.  Then I found it Sweet after a Doctor Brew equivalent, this afternoon, the Grapefruit was to the fore, success.

It is time to remind the Reader that Hector is on a Trip to Polska, ostensibly with Ricky and Stewart.  Imagine the moment that follows…  It is approaching 18.00, time for The Chaps to head north to the Fitba’.  Classic – HoldenTours.

Goodbye, see you tomorrow.

Having known the score from the outset, Hector, Netbook over the shoulder, headed to Piwna Stopa, where else.  Rowing Jack (6.2%) (Ale Browar, Polska) as has been written many times, is – Hop Heaven, still my favourite Piwa.  No way was I going to spend the rest of the night on this, if I was going to write a coherent Blog (still working on The India Trip), then concentration was required.

I had been served by the same Chap who I had seen on the last two days.  Sitting at what I consider to be – my seat – at – my table – a familiar face came into view.  It was Simon, Mein Host.  He recognised me instantly, I cannot work out why.  Simon was straight over; we did some catching up.  I assured him I was here with friends, but they had gone to the football.  A sad story.

The Rowing Jack went off; other people must have been drinking it.  In the fridge was a bottle of Pan Ipani (6.0%) (Trech Kumpli, Polska) as I had at ZUP in Wroclaw a couple of days ago, but on tap.  This Wheat IPA is one to keep looking out for, a great combination of two Bier-styles – IPA and Weizen.  I would love to recapture my taste for Weizen, too often I gag.

Yesterday, the bladder made me take my leave, I felt it too risky to abandon the Netbook.  Piwna Stopa was busier, tables around me had been reserved, I would take my chances.  On my way back from the facilities I heard a – Hello.  It was The Chaps we had seen at Chmielnik.  They were Scottish, hard to believe.  After ten minutes of me standing at their table, I explained how I came to be on my own, I went to collect my belongings.

At this point Simon brought a Platter of Meat to my table, a Complimentary Snack, I suggested he follow me to the new table mid-room.  This was a good hand for Hector to deal.  Some of the Meat Cuts were astonishing.  Note to self, next time, order this.

Russel, Clydebank born but ex-military, hence the Pukka voice was in the company of Andy and Leslie from East Lothian.  All are retired and in Poznan to do the same as Hector.  Let the madness commence.

Simon sat with us and told the story of how he came to establish Piwna Stopa after his days working in England.  I had to ask if there was another Piwa in the house that I should try, he returned with two bottles.

Meza (6.5%)  is an IPA  (Artezan, Polska).  With an IBU of 70, same as Rowing Jack, Hector was on to a winner.  There had to be more, there was.

Komes Baltic Porter (9.0%) (Browar Fortuna, Polska) was brought for Sandy/Leslie who was keen to discover more Biers in this style.  This was a Piwa to be savoured, a sample came my way, it was excellent, not too sweet even whilst interrupting the excellent Mera IPA.

By now the great tradition of rounds included me.  A tray was brought from the Bar, Russel had other plans for it, result, devastation.  Same again please.  The Reserved Chaps I had encountered this afternoon were now – In The Zone – as was Hector.  When Russel announced that he was switching to Wodka, there was little clue as to what would follow.

Last night, my new Best Buddies had Wodka and Snacks at Pijalnia Wodka I Piwa, we walked the few blocks back to Rynek.  The place was stowed, with The Young.  Nobody bothered, we were in, I insisted on buying the Wodka whilst a Snack was arranged.  Four vodkas cost less than one Pint at Piwna Stopa I bought another round.  Honour was maintained.

The Frankfurter whetted the appetite.  There was talk of Rollmops Herring, this came too, Gosh!  I shall be bringing people here in October, what a way to finish a night, or so I thought.

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The Locals were keen to find out who these Mild-mannered Chaps were.

Again, as last night The Chaps had been to another venue across Stary Rynek – Meta Seta Galareta Disco.  This is exactly the sort of venue that may catch the eye in passing but nobody I know would ever dream of entering. There was dancing, this was ignored, Hector still had his senses. Lemon Wodka has been a favourite since Israel in 1986, not that I have had much.  Cherry Wodka was encountered last year, but Hazelnut?  Hazelnut Wodka could easily be Hector’s undoing.

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 Goodnight.

I phoned Jan my taxi driver, minutes later he came into the Square on foot to fetch me. Home, Jan.

The Bars and Restaurant visited today:

Chmielnik  –  Zydowska 27, 61-761 Poznan, Polska

Piwna Stopa  –  Szewska 7, 61-760 Poznan, Polska

Pijalnia Wódki i Piwa  –  Stary Rynek 85, Poznan, Polska

Meta Seta Galareta Disco  –  Stary Rynek 63, Poznan, Polska

Restauracja Indyjska Shivaz  –  Mielzynskiego 16, 61-829 Poznan, Polska

It is somewhat frustrating in the days of Satellite TV when one finds not a single English speaking channel, so it was in Apartment Duo. Still, The Hector was busy as ever, there is always a Blog or twenty to write.

A day to myself in Poznan, a chance to revisit some favourite places and maybe track down some new. Hector and Marg were in Poznan last October with Steve and Louise, nothing was written, and so I have a wealth of knowledge already, but more importantly, enough photos to post the embedded Pages in the above Dropdown Banner.  By the end of this Trip I should have a  comprehensive coverage of this City, in time for another visit in October.

The Tram Map described Route 8 which would take me from the Sala Ziemi stop outside the Train Station to the far end of the Malta Lake.  This still left about a 1km walk to the Lake itself, however, time and effort was not an issue.

The Curry at Taj India was worth the effort.  That the service was a bit slow again did not matter, I had all day.  This Polska Trip was originally conceived to be Monday to Friday in Poznan with The Rickmeister and Stewart.  Only in the last week did The Man from Bradford deign to inform me that Monday meant a 23.00 arrival, I’ll see them tomorrow.

Chmielnik was spotted in passing yesterday when the mission was Rowing Jack.  Today some new Piwa had to be sampled.  The desired Bier Style was described, the Chap serving suggested Tap 4 – Kryz Poludnia (5.%) is a NZPA (Browar Reden, Polska).  Southern Cross – as it translates was a worthy first Piwa of the day, whilst – in the style – it did not quite give the – Wow – as one hoped.  This is how high the bar is set with Polish Craft Bier.  Other Sources have this as an APA, however this is certainly made with NZ Hops.  More please.

The wi-fi permitted further write-ups, though who knows how long it will take to write up this week, The India Trip is such a major task.  Chmielnik is a very pleasant place to sit, the view to the garden reminds that Piwna Stopa is across the way, but does not open until 16.00.  The afternoon is young, Dom Piwa should open around then too.  16Zl is a couple of Zloty more than one pays elsewhere for Piwa.

Dom Piwa impressed last October when I first visited, I shall be coming here on every Trip to Poznan, how many more this year?  10 Hops (5.7%) is an APA by Birbant, Polska.  I have previously enjoyed their White AIPA (6.6%) whose Cascade Hops were seriously in the face. I took my Piwa upstairs to one of the two empty rooms above. It was still early for those who work.  10 Hops is Amber-Gold and did the job, though the name suggested it could have been more.  But then, Six Hops by Dark Star (Partridge Green, West Sussex) does not IMHO live up to its number rating either.

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And so to Piwna Stopa.

Piwna Stopa is the standout venue in Poznan.  The table at the top left of the room is where I have sat on nearly every visit, why change now?

The Board looked the same as yesterday, time to gamble and try something new once more. I have never tried a Bier by Kraftwerk, Polska, I had to, if only so that I could text Howard and tell him how much I dislike Krafterk.  Citrinitas is listed elsewhere at 5.7%, The Board clearly shows 6.5%, whose error? Smoked Chili – was the given description, indeed, there was enough to notice but this was at the expense of the Hops. I would have this again, but not when my Favourite Piwa is staring down at me.

Hector was here until the bladder insisted I move.  The Lone Supper cannot leave a table with all the electronics on display, or can he?  This is Polska, in the many visits, there has been no sense of trouble, discomfort, crime.  Maybe next time I’ll risk leaving my worldy goods unguarded.

Rowing Jack (6.2%)  (Ale Browar, Polska) is Hector’s Favourite Tipple, the reason for being here.  Simcoe, Chinook, Citra, Cascade, and Palisade Hops all feature.  This is the most cheek-sucking experience one has encountered. The IBU is 70, other Biers are higher, but nothing else does it for me, so much.  Bier Heaven.

I watched the place fill up, people of all ages, all here to appreciate Bier.  There is an acceptable range of Bottled Cider too, it was at Piwna Stopa that Marg discovered Cider last October.  Finally, I had to go.

Stary Rynek was not too busy this Monday evening, people were heading to the Bars that The Hector would never consider, cheap Eurofizz on sale.  Crossing to the south east corner I went up the hill towards 27 Grudnia.  Minesterstwo Browaru was where I had my first Piwa in Poznan, guess.  Having checked The Board yesterday, I though it time to try something Bottled.  Doctor Brew, Polska have impressed in the years of visiting Polska. Their Summer Ale (4.2%) is quite a step down from 6.2%, a challenge.  Again, US Hops to the fore, always refreshing, a Piwa I look out for.

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Once the seal is broken there is no stopping.  This made Ministerstwo a one Piwa venue., anyway, I was seeing Pink Elephants.

A taxi home, appreciably less than last night’s to Sala Ziemi which is closer.

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The Restaurant and Bars visited today:

Taj India  –  Wiankowa 3, Poznan, Polska 

Chmielnik  –  Zydowska 27, 61-761 Poznan, Polska

Piwna Stopa  –  Szewska 7, 61-760 Poznan, Polska

Minisertrstwo Browaru  –  Ratajczaka 34, 61-815 Poznan, Polska

The train from Wroclaw was chosen so as to arrive in Poznan for the start of the second half of the Old Firm Match. I expected the Plush Carriage and Service we had last year moving between Warszawa and Katowice, I even bought a First Class Ticket at a whole £3.00 more. I found myself in a six seater carriage with one other Chap. I offered to let him see my Replacement Samsung but he was not bothered by a Rangers v Celtic Football Match. Why do the British Media tell us this game is avidly watched across the Planet?

The Mobdro App let me see about ten seconds in every minute, the signal strength varied, frozen screen was the norm. Rangers taking the lead was unexpected, we should not be playing Them off the park, we were. As the train pulled into Poznan, so the equaliser was scored. Ten minutes later I had checked in to Apartment Duo (£70.00 for five nights), game on. Minimal freezing, maximum enjoyment. Penalty kicks. My flatmates were probably curious as to why loud cheers were emanating from the room at the back. Yay!

Had my room been facing the front, I would have been able to see Sala Ziemi where tonight’s concert would be held. I walked up the street but could see no obvious entrance to a Theatre. I could see no Theatre, just gates, locked. There was nobody to ask. Worry later, there is Curry and Bier to be had, just enough time for both.

 The Shivaz Curry House was found despite the address being totally misleading.  I had a couple of hours left for Piwa.Ministerstwo did not have Rowing Jack (Ale Browar, Polska) in Bottle or Draught, I did not hang about.  Setka is just around the corner, or so I thought.  One venue that I was really looking forward to visiting again – Closed!

The walk from 27 Grudnia to Stare Miasto is moments. Poznan’s Square does not rival Krakow or Wroclaw, but has its own charm, I suppose. The 1960s Monstrosity in Stary Rynek says it all.

Out the far side of the Rynek is Dom Piwa , they had Rowing Jack in Bottles last October, my best chance of finding some on this, my third day in Polska. Success, Joy. With Four US Hops, this is my Favourite Bier on the Planet, currently. It disappeared very quickly,leaving time for a quick visit to what is my Favourite Pub in Poznan – Piwna Stopa.

A quick glance at The Board, there it was, Rowing Jack on Tap. I acknowledged the Barman, I think he served us last year, the Chaps in here are always Friendly and Helpful. I took a seat, in fact, the very seat I occupied with Marg, Steve and Louise last October. Hector is Home. In October this year – The Official 60^th Birthday Trip – is scheduled for Wroclaw – Poznan – Gdansk. We shall be spending time here.

A Taxi Doris took me back to Sala Ziemi, she had no idea where to drop me. The Steven Wilson Concert somehow belongs in the Sister Blog, this is how it is.

An Outstanding Day, A Rangers Victory, I saw most of the Match, Very Good Curry, Rowing Jack and a Concert which justified the entire Polska Trip.

Tonight, I am a very Happy Old Hector.

The Bars and Restaurant visited today:

Dom Piwa  –  2, Mokra 2, 61-766 Poznan, Polska

Piwna Stopa  –  Szewska 7, 61-760 Poznan, Polska

Restauracja Indyjska Shivaz  –  Mielzynskiego 16, 61-829 Poznan, Polska