Friday, September 25th
Today was Hector’s third visit to Gdansk and technically Marg’s second, however, her first was a matter of heading straight to the airport whilst yours truly got on with retirement. The trip up from Poznan passed in no time, a few episodes of Suits took care of that. Whatever happened to Meghan Markle?
Having checked into the Ibis near Gdansk Glowny it was time for Hector the tourist guide to come into vogue. It was only on my second visit that I made it as far as the waterfront, that would be our final sightseeing objective after we had done the other tourist bits: Hala Targowa – the indoor market, then Neptune’s Fountain at the start of the main market street.
The old town of Gdansk resembles a chocolate box, a fine atmosphere and one I knew Marg would appreciate.
It was still warm enough to sit outside for coffee and listen to a lady sing under the archway which led to the Motlawa, or at least the marina which connects to it.
I have yet to see the Wisla in Gdansk, the mouth being only a short distance to the north. Having walked across the Wisla/Vistula in Krakow, Warszawa, Torun and Bydgoszcz, this is something for another visit.
The Cathead Multitap Bar was magically only seconds away when it was declared Bier o’clock. Tables were reserved for later, Friday night out, despite Covid bubbling under every decision one makes. We virtually had the place to ourselves which suited our purpose, still, I would like to see this place in full flight.
With only half of the possible twenty eight taps in use, the choice of Piwo was restricted.
There was a NEIPA, it had to be. Vermont (Browar Pivojad, Polska) at 4.8% was no more than a gentle start to the day, it had to be after the excesses of Piwna Stopa (Poznan).
Marg was outside on the verandah having a video call with her Friday Coffee chums, this left me to choose my next Bier. Desert (Browar Raduga, Polska) was not a good choice. A DDH IPA at 6.3% tasted as bad as it looked, if I can get away with that for once. The tasting notes are here.
A few nights back in Berlin we dined pukka at the India Club, there would be no Curry-Heute. Instead we took the opperchancity of visiting the type of establishment one would likely have to book well in advance.
Restauracja Fino was again minutes from our present locale, we timed our arrival well, any later and we could have been turned away. Fine dining – there are no photos, why spoil the mood? Hors d’oeuvres, amuse bouche, palate cleanser, it all came, each offering described and explained. I felt decidedly underdressed, still, I know how to hold a knife and a fork when I have to. (I hate having to use a knife.) Marg enjoyed the experience, bring on the Curry Cafes.
It was raining intermittently as we headed past the lions to Labeerynt. Still Hector was finding amusements for Marg before the real business of the day. We descended into the basement bar, I had been here before yet I didn’t know what to expect. Back in 2016 there was a decidedly rough crowd in here, tonight it was quiet. Again this suited.
Hopito’s – Pizza Vibe, the IPA which has been the highlight of the last two nights was waiting for Hector! Bring it on! I could happily have stayed here all night, however, my favourite Gdansk bar – Lawendowa 8 – was on the itinerary.
Before moving on I had to try the collaboration with Fyne Ales, a brewery which was turning out some outrageously good Cask Ales when they had a certain New Zealand brewer with them a few years back. Unfortunately, I cannot rate Pinta above the level of competent when it comes to Piwo. The Hazy Disco Highland at 7.1% had potential, being a DDH DIPA it ticked the present – obsession – box. NEIPA is good, DIPA is better. I would blame the Polish after-taste for spoiling this Bier, another – Pinta disappointment.
The walk to Lawendowa 8 was again a short hop. It was chucking it down, my vision was impaired such that I tripped over something as I made my way past the throng outside this much revered venue, and its sister shop – Cafe Lamus – next door. Lawendowa 8 was the busiest venue encountered in the Polish leg of this trip.
Marg secured a table whilst I socially distanced myself in the queue at the bar. AleBrowar brew Rowing Jack, so any new Piwo by them catches the eye. El Fruto was just what was being hoped for in terms of style. An 8.0% Hazy Juicy DIPA, this could be the Bier to wind everyone with back home. I started small and soon went large. This full on – Milkshake – had a prominent Mango flavour but the sourness avoided any sickliness. A session DIPA, Lawendowa 8 had lived up to hopes/expectations once more.
Marg and I sat on a cinema-style pair of seats, backs against the wall, nobody facing us, all quite safe, relatively. Groups were huddled around the adjacent tables in the way one used to take for granted. As time passed so the numbers diminished, our final hour or so was in the new normal.
En route back to the Ibis I showed Marg the not so late night Kebap shop where I nearly managed to order a Donner one night, but a phone-call from the dear lady stopped me in my tracks, I lost out. For those who have the late night munchies, there is a suitable venue on the stretch outside Hala Targova, better to be sure, visit this one.
Saturday, September 26th
Soon after our arrival in Gdansk yesterday, we purchased our onward tickets for tomorrow’s leg to Warszawa. Gdansk Glowny remains a challenge. The PKP tickets were purchased in a portacabin, a sensible place to return to. Nope, there’s a booth on the platform for the local SKM trains. Gone is the subterranean ticket office of yesteryear. Maybe the station refurbishment will be finished next time I visit?
Day tickets in hand, it was northwards to Sopot. Social distancing was being adhered to on what was a busy train. Marg was last in a Baltic seaside resort back in 2012 when we went to Binz on Rügen Island, also taking in Peenemünde and Prora. This was classic – Hector’s Horrible Holidays.
Marg would only appreciate Sopot after she had Coffee & Cake. Santa Cafe had outstanding revues on various media and being located off-street, maybe quiet. Walking down past the kirk and encountering the statue of the bear, Marg was already impressed.
Santa Cafe lived up to all expectations, and indeed surpassed them such that Marg had coffee and tea thus permitting more cake. This was Marg’s type of venue, luxury, pampering. After last night’s dinner I knew I had to break the spell and remind her that Curry in Gdynia awaited.
Sopot was busy, it’s the weekend. The beach called, sand under our feet has been a rarity in 2020. Check the swans, what was going on here? Swans in the sea, does the Queen know about this?
We found the queue to purchase tickets to access the pier. Paying to get on the pier, don’t tell Brighton. Sopot pier was indeed Binz #2.
It’s late September, probably the last chance to have an ice cream at the seaside. Marg abstained, however, I made sure there were incriminating photos, always useful.
More Coffee & Cake. Once more I located a venue which was a bit off the beaten track.
Las Cafe was more Bohemian, a suitable step down from that which had preceded it, still, another decent Hector choice.
The rest of the day belonged to Hector. AleBrowar have opened in Sopot since my last visit in 2016. Despite the Gdynia outlet being our ultimate venue for this evening, AleBrowar Sopot had to be checked out. In contradiction to what it said on the door, AleBrowar Sopot was not open, next time. This left No.5 beer house & coffee bar which is located directly up the main drag, and across a busy road.
What a place, and coffee too. No.5 was possibly even larger than Cathead (Gdansk) and had a better selection of Piwo. 
Artezan’s West Coast IPA – Mera – at 6.5% became the natural successor to Rowing Jack. It was time to establish how this stood up to 2020, the NEIPA and rapidly developing DIPA fascination. One has to accept this for what it is, and along with Siostra Bozenaka (Browar Podgorz) still one of the best three Polish IPAs encountered yet.
Next up was a DDH DIPA – Proof of Hops – a 6.7% collaboration with Browar Nepomucen and Maltgarden. Despite the promise of the Milkshake appearance, this was thin and the Polish after-taste made this a disappointment. I have had five other – Browar Nepomucen – Piwo to date, Hogeita Bost (7.5% NEIPA) and Road (5.9% Vermont IPA) have been the best.
Staying in Sopot must be more expensive than staying in Gdansk, but this could become the choice in the future. However, Gdynia despite two previous visits remains unexplored, and it has a Curry House which may be the best in the Tri-Met area. We walked through the shopping mall which is part of Sopot station. I like how the Poles have made a feature of their train stations, a focal point of every town, hives of activity. The mall was deserted.
We alighted one stop before Gdynia Glowny, Taj Mahal is halfway between the two. Here was the opperchancity to see more Polish architecture. What I didn’t want was a test of tolerance which was a feature of the meal at Taj Mahal. Why can people not control their weans? More rain en route, and a boisterous group at our next venue, was not what the Hector wanted.
There was a choice from eight taps at Pub Beczka Chmielu, a new venue just down from AleBrowar Gdynia. Browar Hopito’s – Lunapark – at 6.2% had to be tried. If it was close to their excellent Pizza Vibe enjoyed over the two night s at Piwna Stopa (Poznan), then all would be well.
Getting served was an issue, Hector the polite even gave way when the barman failed to establish who was first. Why can they not ask when they don’t know? Simples.
Lunapark had the appearance but nothing approaching the hoped for lactose or body.
The Polish after-taste was there, one day I’ll work out which Hop this is, or is it really just a Polish thing? A Big Bier, a one of, AleBrowar had to better.
The downstairs in AleBrowar was busy, upstairs was what we sought, peace, space, social distancing. I have seen AleBrowar Wroclaw post their new DIPAs over the last year or so, no sign of them tonight. Rowing Jack had to be sampled for old times sake, El Fruto was there too. How we got from IBU 70, to where we are, amuses. Are we drinking – Sweet Bier? As reported above, there is nothing – sweet – about El Fruto.
Rowing Jack at 6.2% still packs a punch, but takes a bit of getting used to after the smoothness of the current obsession. One cannot drink the same thing all night, says the man who hopped on the SKM back to Gdansk to have more El Fruto at Lawendowa 8.
Having taken a sensibly timed train back to Gdansk, Marg was still accepting the night was young, well almost. The same table awaited at Lawendowa 8, the same staff were on duty, however, all was not well. The Doris should have sent the young chap serving home, or taken someone through from next door. Glasses were dropped, customers not spotted, a mess. Still, he drank on, serving himself before others, not professional.
My final thoughts were – is it worth coming back to Gdansk? Sopot is as easy to get to from the airport, Gdynia remains relatively unknown. The future will reveal all.
Bars, Coffee Houses and Restaurants visited:
Cathead Multitap Bar – Powroznicza 19/20, 80-828 Gdansk
Labeerynt – Szeroka 97, 80-835 Gdansk
Lawendowa 8 – Lawendowa 8, 80-837 Gdansk
Restauracja Fino – Grzaska 1, 80-833 Gdansk
No. 5 beer house & coffee bar – ul, Bohaterow Monte Cassino 5/U2, 81-805 Sopot
AleBrowar Sopot – Podjazd 11, 81-805 Sopot
Santa Cafe – Bohaterow Monte Cassino 38/5, 81-759 Sopot
Las Cafe – Jana Jerzego Haffnera 42, 81-708 Sopot
AleBrowar Gdynia – Starowiejska 40B, 81-357 Gdynia
Pub Beczka Chmielu – Starowiejska 28, 81-356 Gdynia
Taj Mahal – Antoniego Abrahama 86, 81-001 Gdynia