A Much Happier Return To Poznan

Wednesday, September 23rd

Hector’s last visit to Poznan in March of this year has been well documented and oft referenced – Escape from Polska! Four hours sitting on Poznan’s bus station floor is not recommended. When the Berlin bound bus failed to show, so began the application of the Geography through which Hector survived thirty four years of teaching that very subject.

Today, Marg and Hector did the route in reverse, in comfort and at a fraction of the cost. Crossing into Ost Deutschland by foot from Slubice to Frankfurt (Oder) is an experience Hector is never going to forget.

Checking out of the Ibis at Alexanderplatz before noon and checking in to the new Ibis in Poznan, which is actually walkable from the train station, makes Berlin and Poznan is no more than Glasgow to Manchester.

The Ibis Poznan Centrum is adjacent to Stary Browar, the Old Brewery, now a shopping mall. Around the corner, Polwiejska, a pedestrianised street with shops and restaurants, leads to plac Wiosny Ludow. This is the major tram interchange on the south side of the old town square – Stary Rynek. Around here lies one of Hector’s favourite playgrounds in Europe, this is Craft Beer Central. The – ontap – app is hopefully complemented by Bier-Traveller.com. Hector relates what each bar is like, ontap.pl reliably shows what Piwo is on in each pub.

Knowing that we were in for a big night at Piwna Stopa, Marg had to be both fed and amused prior to meeting up with Szymon, our host for the evening.

The ritual photos of Rynek, complete with the 1960s monstrosities, were completed, time to eat.

Restauracja Ratuszova lies on the south-east corner of Rynek, a venue we enjoyed a few years back, one particular photo has appeared in despatches.

Due to Koronawirus, most diners were outside enjoying the evening warmth, this left the interior of the restaurant empty. We were given the same table as last time, a fact that would be shared with the staff who were exemplary in their service and care.

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To see a table set for a large group amassed, no groups of six here. A large group of chaps assembled in the downstairs seating area. Polska has a much lower Covid rate than the UK (not difficult), but as everyone was about to tell us, it is rising.

Marg was considering a Salad or similar but ended up with a multi-meat dish. Hector had Tomato Soup followed by the best Perogi, ever. The red wine sauce made all the difference. As is our way, this is a venue we shall have to visit on every future visit to Poznan.

We walked the few blocks to the north of Rynek, Piwna Stopa was remarkably quiet. As with the UK and Deutschland, fewer people are out these days. Instead of our usual table hard up against the bar, we took the table opposite, more space, social distancing if required.

Time to inspect the Board. Thirteen taps eight of which were in the contemporary style that Hector presently seeks. Rowing Jack (Ale Browar) was the yardstick Piwo for years, now this is categorised as being at the – rough – end of the IPA taste scale. Bring on the Milkshakes – NEIPA and DIPA.

Easy Peasy (Dear Bear, Polska) at 6.0% kicked things off. This DDH NEIPA was darker than expected, approaching a milkshake with a decent body, but was not quite there in terms of flavour. Marg had a Cola.

Marg had spotted Szymon at the far end of the pub watching the football. We did so also with the TV above our table. Lech Poznan won convincingly.

Szymon joined us, one can tell how pleased we were to see each other. Hector was bearing gifts, Szymon had asked me to bring him some traditional English Ale. On being asked why he desired such an archaic style of of Bier his reply – because I like it. Whilst I’ll take the risk of bottles popping their tops on a return flight, no way am I doing this on the outward, so cans it had to be.

Unfortunately Fullers – London Pride – is all I could find in cans locally before we flew to Berlin. Mixed emotions – may describe the reaction.

My second choice of Piwo this evening was the Hazy IPA – Blurry at 6.2% (Funky Fluid, Polska). Another Milkshake in appearance with the desired root taste. The enjoyment was marred by a slight astringency.

Szymon assured me that Pizza Vibe (Browar Hopito, Polska) is what I really desired, that is what he was drinking and would be the Piwo for the rest of the night. This Milkshake IPA was quite exceptional. With Sabro, Nelson Sauvin and Citra hops it had the desired flavours with nothing spoiling it in the aftertaste. At 6.1% this was a relatively safe Session Bier.

Szymon disappeared for a moment then returned with a bottle of Aberlour twelve year old, except I knew it wasn’t. Last year, Dr. Stan, Steve, Szymon and Hector did damage to a bottle of Wodka of domestic heritage. Tonight we were three, and one was Marg.

More Piwo arrived, shots were poured – Nazdravi – down they went. Smooth, Vanilla, this was sound, don’t even think to ponder over the abv. Marg was on board, oh no.

The baby photos came out, Szymon, the proud daddy. This kept Marg involved, the conversation was not all about Bier. Szymon admitted to his fascination with – feet – as if the name of the pub didn’t give that away. He also told us he is taking over the premises directly across the lane.  This will sell cheaper Czech Piwo, no point competing with himself.  As the children grow up, so they may take the big step.

In time two friends of Szymon were invited to join us, quite a party. Party on.

At the time of our leaving, pairs of glasses were assembled on the table, a challenge to get these all home in one piece, and I don’t mean just back to the Ibis, ten more days, four more cities, and a flight home. Cheers, Szymon, until next time.


Thursday, September 24th

Needless to say we were not up so early this morning. The mission for the day was to verify the existence of the nine new Curry Houses which have reportedly popped up in Poznan in the last year or so. Lunch was had at Taj Mahal which lies on the east side of Stare Miasto.

Thereafter it was Coffee on Rynek and the spotting of a third Ministerstwo, more on them later. We then headed west to the new town and across the railway to parts of Poznan previously unexplored. The Craft Beer House, which was once over there, has gone leaving the Old Town the focus of things Bier related.

Having declared it was Bier o’clock, we headed to Jabeerwocky Craft Beer Pub just off Rynek. A first visit, so presumably this is a new-ish venue. Fifteen taps, but only one NEIPA, Daydream at 5.1% by Browar Szpunt, Polska. Amber, decidedly not in the Milkshake style, this Piwo looked and tasted nothing like a NEIPA. That I was getting the dreaded – Brett – from it made matters worse. This Bier was bogging.

Still, Jabeerwocky looks to be a decent pub, more details shown here.

We crossed Rynek to another early opening venue in Poznan, Van Gogh. The ontap app stated that Hector’s long term favourite Piwo – Rowing Jack (Ale Browar) was available. As is often the case at Van Gogh, a young girl was serving, the Bier was poured, something soft for Marg.

Given the smoothness of NEIPA/DIPA, Rowing Jack must come under the category of – rough – IPA. A couple more and the palate would no doubt have adjusted. At 6.2%, more than Oakham’s Green Devil (6.0%) which is regarded by some as a Session Ale in Glasgow. Rowing Jack still has an edge.

The first Ministerstwo  outlet in Poznan was on the edge of Stare Miasto at Ratajczaka. Their second outlet on Wroniecka is precisely two blocks west of Piwna Stopa, another Multi Tap Bar. The third premises passed this morning appears to be primarily a Wodka Bar. After Van Gogh, it was round the corner to Ministerstwo Wroniecka, for once Dom Piwa had nothing to entice.

Milky Day at 5.0%, a Milk Shake IPA brewed for Minister under contract turned out to be too dark, muddy even, to be taken seriously. The after-taste was all wrong, another disaster, we didn’t hang around long. Piwna Stopa had an array of good Piwo awaiting. No Szymon tonight, however, the chaps behind the bar have been there long enough to maintain the level of service.

To go straight on to Pizza Vibe would have been too obvious. Skate Zone (Browar Hopito) at 5.8% is an IPA Milkshake with Nelson Sauvin and Citra hops, the little brother of Pizza Vibe (Browar Hopito). This was another excellent Bier from Hopito, a brewery I hadn’t encountered until yesterday.

Last night, Szymon described the extension to his food menu, time to give it a go.

Simon promised that the Chilli Dog would testing, it was. Marg had a Toastie which arrived with a Gherkin, that came my way. Polish Gherkins, yay!

Next up was the two Bier option, just in case. The amber NEIPA at 6.7% by Browar Nieczajna, Polska and a Pizza Vibe. The – New England Pale Ale – at least was not sweet and had no astringency, but had little to offer in the way of hops.

Thereafter, the night took care of itself, the accompanying Pizza Vibe was fulfilling, until Marg decided it was time for some Hazelnut Wodka. Well, why wouldn’t you?

There was a wee football match on TV this evening, FC Bayern v Sevilla. There was even a crowd, of sorts. No surprise as to who won.

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