Day 33 – Monday, April 22nd – Christchurch to Dunedin
Bus 29 to Christchurch Airport, another NZ$3.00 cash payment, what am I going to do with this leftover currency? Give it to Marg, she’s coming back in November! Once again, we dropped off the big bags and proceeded to the gate, no security. It still feels weird.
Flight 9, NZ5479 to Dunedin, an ATR72, a French built turboprop seating seventy two passengers. This one boarded from the rear, we were up front, getting used to always being last off.
Dunedin, the furthest south the Hector ever expected to travel. The airport lies to the south-west of Dunedin on a former glacial lake bed. Momona is 45.92º south, still another twenty degrees to go to the Antarctic Circle. Glasgow is ten degrees off the Arctic Circle, so why was I so convinced that Dunedin would be cold, wet, windy, everything I hate? I have been carrying – the Dunedin jacket – over my arm on every flight, time to put it on. Actually, I’ve been wearing at night since Wellington.
Mark, aka – Noddy – by those who have known him for many decades, and two stuffed penguins were waiting by the luggage carousel. It’s wonderful being met off a ‘plane, especially in a foreign land. Quite a drive back to Dunedin, which is meant to resemble Edinburgh. Really?
Mark & Jude’s domicile is situated to the east of Musselburgh and south of Portobello. They share a home with Alfie, the craziest dog ever encountered. Alfie doesn’t bark, he squeaks. I could tell Marg was going to become attached.
Bags dumped, Mark drove us into Dunedin’s hinterland, up and further up, how high can you get? Sandymount, the peninsula running to the east, has the Dunedin fjord on its north side, otherwise it is the South Pacific one is observing. Big waves, this is wild scenery, photos aplenty.
Supplies were required, we stopped of at a supermarket back in the city. Rather than drink Noddy dry, I bought bottles of Rat Rod (Panhead Custom Ales, Upper Hutt, New Zealand) which has been going down well.
Mark then took us to LiquorLand, a much more serious booze outlet. Cans of Juice Box (Southpaw Brewing Company, Christchurch, New Zealand) at 6.3% could be a – goodnight – Bier. I’ll need to make sure it’s opened by 20.30 just in case everyone goes to be at 21.00 which is the NZ norm. What are they doing?
Jude returned from work, both she and Mark are destined to work for more years, so it goes. Marg got on a washing, it’s four days since Nelson. Pizza for dinner, the first of the trip. The accompanying vegetables completed the meal, well until Mark insisted on showing off. Not his guitar collection, but by serving Vienetta!
A night in, quite a treat. Lots of catching up. Eventually it was time to open the can.
Juice Box, a Hazy IPA has the full milkshake haze, the body matches the abv, but tasted too acidic. The – Polish aftertaste – was present. Despite the presence of Waima, Nectaron and Loral hops, not the best of Bier.
Mark has promised to take me to Emerson’s. He is certain I’ll like it.
Have I mentioned – Alfie?
Day 34 – Tuesday, April 23rd
Marg went out for her ritual walk-come-run. Despite the simplicity of the sea being downhill, she managed to end up at St Clair, another beach where Mark had planned to take us for brunch.
There was a walk along the beach, sea lions basking, a wide berth given.
Starfish Cafe was Mark’s chosen venue.
We sat outside with Alfie. Sausage Rolls were the reason for being here. These were nothing like the – hunt for the sausage – we get back home. With Spices and Herbs in the mix, these Sausage Rolls could almost qualify to be reviewed in the sister blog. A real treat.
By request, we had to see Baldwin Street, even steeper than Glasgow’s Gardner Street (Taggart intro).
In keeping with the extremes of relief, up to Signal Hill, aka – The Lookout. A bit of Edinburgh Rock had made its way here.
From here we could see the entire Dunedin vista.
Are we travelling in time?
Looking down on the fjord-like inlet from the rounded hilltops did feel a bit familiar, the Arrochar Alps, Loch Long, but on a much grander scale.
If Christchurch resembled an English village, then the landscape here was decidedly more – Scottish.
Sea Lions and possibly Penguins were next on the agenda. It was quite a drive to Aramoana Beach, an area of deposition on the northern extremity of the fjord. Spits are aplenty on the New Zealand coastline. Today, I enjoyed Mark’s driving, nothing like the way he used to navigate the streets of South London decades back. Every blind bend was approached as if an oncoming car would be encountered, safe.
The sea lions were found sporadically, minding their own business, the birds, another matter. Marg is always pointing out the bird-life wherever we go. The Hector sees landscapes not minutiae, however, today there was no escaping the ornithological world.
Walking along The Mole, the sea wall, was a re-enactment of the end scene in Hitchcock’s – The Birds.
Bier o’clock
Emerson’s Brewery is a substantial building across the bay from Mark’s home. Too far to walk.
Emerson’s – Hazed and Confused, a Hazy IPA at 5.8% was my first Bier in New Zealand, back in Auckland at the 360º Restaurant in Sky City. This again caught the eye, but Mark led me to a Bier I might otherwise not have chosen.
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Sticky Digits at 6.0% IPA – NEIPA Fresh hop was right on the button. The haze and the body matched the New England style, and with Nelson Sauvin hops, this was right up Hector’s street. I had not seen Mark since the evolution and subsequent awareness of this style of Bier, yet having been thousands of miles apart, our tastes were perfectly matched. Maybe he was paying attention during the Lockdown zoom calls.
With Mark driving and dinner booked for this evening, there was only one Bier. Mark promised we would return.
And we did, in the interim, Jude was fetched, but not before Alfie got in on the act.
There was a decent Curry at – Two Fat Indians – before Jude was dropped off, tired after a long day at work. This work thing does get in the way of living.
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And so back to Emerson’s Brewery.
Sticky Digits, to think I could otherwise have not picked up on this.
Marg had coffee, crème brûlée, and drove us home.
With that many accents to find, hopefully she’ll have custard next time.
Brewery and restaurants visited today:
Emerson’ Brewery – 70 Anzac Avenue, Central Dunedin, Dunedin 9016
Two Fat Indians – 58 Princes Street, Central Dunedin, Dunedin 9016
Starfish Cafe & Bar – 240 Forbury Road, St Clair, Dunedin 9012
Day 35 – Wednesday, April 24th
Alfie needed his morning walk, Marg accompanied Mark, this meant she would find the correct beach. But then who knows? Mark has sussed that he can tell Marg anything and she’ll believe it. Meanwhile, the Hector enjoyed some quiet time, and caught up with some blogging. Curry-Heute is always up to date, Bier-Traveller takes much longer to produce.
Today, Taiaroa Head which lies directly across the inlet from Aramoana, visited yesterday. Consequently, I had photos of our objective before setting off.
How high can one get? Lots of hills, steep slopes, I know that Mark takes great care behind the wheel, however there was an incident. Slowing down to let the car in front turn right off the main road, a smart ass decided to overtake both of us. Cue an oncoming car, disaster was imminent. Fortunately, it was Mark’s careful driving and anticipation which saved the day. The offending driver was able to cut in between us and the car going right. Three cars, we were stationary, the other three drivers and passengers could have been hospitalised. Mark deserved a medal, not one moment of acknowledgment, or possibly awareness that their skins had been saved. We passed the villain on our return, Mark reckoned he had been in a hurry to catch the ferry at Portobello. A reminder, Mark’s home is metres east of Musselburgh.
Standing on a promontory, high up, steep, a cliff, wonderful, for those who like that sort of thing. Fortunately, the fence was high enough for the Hector to grimace whilst having the photo taken.
Penguins? There was another mention of Penguins, but by day they’re all at sea. Nevertheless, Marg went down towards the bay just in case. Why go down to come back up? Instead, Mark and Hector went up to Fort Taiaroa.
At Fort Taiaroa people pay to see albatross and/or attend seminars. We did birds yesterday. Of more interest to Hector was the concealed cannon known as the – Disappearing Gun. This elaborate mechanism protected the solitary piece of artillery from the elements. How long it would have lasted against an invading Japanese flotilla we shall never know.
Close, far away, was that gull actually an albatross?
Night time
Tonight, Marg and Hector were let loose in Dunedin. Mark had a formal event to which Jude wasn’t invited either. Suited and booted, he dropped us off in Dunedin city centre.
The train station had ben seen previously in passing, quite a building. The Octagon is the focal point of the city. Our attempts at capturing decent photos in the dusk were thwarted by the ubiquitous populous which appear to be taking over both Australia and New Zealand.
Armed with an array of SLRs, the Chinese got their photos but were oblivious to anyone else trying to secure the same. The culprits are therefore featured.
Craft Beer and Kitchen was the first venue visited this evening. I had convinced Marg that a full menu would be available, not the usual Burgers and Pizza. A substantial venue, there was a decent choice of Beer too.
Good George Brewing Co. (Frankton, Hamilton, New Zealand) have five main outlets across the country plus an association with the Craft Beer and Kitchen restaurant chain. Fog City, a Hazy IPA at 5.8% proved to be a worthwhile choice. A good haze and lots of bubbles, but not too gassy, this had a big hop hit. Amarillo, Mosaic and Citra featured as well as the declared lactose. The body matched the abv, definitely worth having. If Emerson’s was not down the road, more could well have been consumed.
We were here to dine. Hector fancied a steak, it has been a while. Normally, steak is a meal had best at home. Rarely cooked as I like it, and as for the price of steak in a restaurant, really? Marg chose a modest Fish and Chips, Hector relayed how a steak should be cooked. Alarm!
What do you mean I have to cook it myself? I didn’t come here to work! Can nobody cook me a steak?
Apparently, one is served raw meat with a hot stone, do it yourself.
And while that’s happening, the rest of my food gets cold?
The couple at the next table could not help but overhear, I suspect one of them shared my view.
Yes, I was giving the waitress a hard time, she later admitted I was one of many who have asked why the kitchen cannot produce a cooked steak. She would add it to the list of complaints/suggestions. Fish and Chips for Hector too.
There’s a Scottish bar in Dunedin, I was told I had to go. Albar was around the corner, Dunedin city centre ain’t that big. Behold, the Tennent’s Lager (Glasgow, Scotland)!
There was a choice of Hofbräu (München, Bayern) for the more discerning. As ever, Hector went down the Hazy route.
A brewery from Wanaka (New Zealand) called – b.effect – produce Ridgeline, a Hazy IPA at 6.0%. Something had interrupted my usual photography and note-taking. With the Bier notes not saved, all I can say it was hazy, juicy, tropical, decent.
Albar is a proper pub, a good range of Bier and nostalgic food on offer. The couple who had sat beside us at Craft Beer and Kitchen arrived but chose not to join us. Beware of the Scotsman.
A fifteen minute walk saw us arrive at Emerson’s. It was busy, inside and out. A party occupied the room off. Sticky Digits was the Bier of choice, again. Outstanding. Oh to have such a venue on one’s doorstep. Overtone (Glasgow, Scotland) one day, perhaps. This is why The Company are in Manchester as often as possible.
Marg had a Baileys, or maybe two. There was still the matter of getting – home. This was solved when Mark joined us for his permitted – one. I wonder how often Mark is let loose here?
There had to be an Emerson’s t-shirt, and thankfully those on offer here were a cut above the norm. This is a special place.
Brewery, bar and restaurant visited today:
Emerson’s Brewery – 70 Anzac Avenue, Central Dunedin, Dunedin 9016
Craft Beer and Kitchen – 17 Bath Street, Central Dunedin, Dunedin 9016
Albar – 135 Stuart Street, Central Dunedin, Dunedin 9016
Day 36 – Thursday, April 25th – ANZAC Day
Today, Jude was able to join us for an excursion south, yes, even further south than Dunedin airport.
Nugget Point Lighthouse was the objective, mark the latitude, an historic day.
The day began earlier for some than others. It’s ANZAC Day, and being in New Zealand, everything starts at a time of day when the Hector, and indeed most sensible people are asleep. There was discussion last night as to whether Mark and Jude were getting up at 05.00, this was dismissed. Somehow, both Marg and Hector missed their early morning clattering about. Sleep. Whilst it would have been interesting to witness Armistice Day, New Zealand style, Marg was actually more bothered at missing it than Hector. So it goes.
Mosgiel, Berwick, Balclutha and Stirling were names which popped up along the ninety minute drive. This was realistic, the last thing we needed when flying around the World was another trek.
Yesterday featured a cliff top, today, a path along a cliff. Why does this trip keep involving high places? I had to stride out on my own in some parts, acrophobia, I cannot stand being near anyone when danger is sensed.
The right foot is most certainly on the mend, not that Dunedin was ever going to be sandals. Note the full Dunedin outfit, thicker trousers and – the Bologna jacket – which has been carried on to every flight. Italian tailoring.
Passing strangers took group photos to supplement the couples’.
As ever, Marg was on the hunt for wildlife, Still no Penguins though some splashes out to sea were reportedly them. Aye right. We all know Penguins live in the real Edinburgh, at the Zoo.
On the return, there was a stop at Kaka Point. Henceforth, the rest of this grand trip is – north.
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Monteith’s Brewery, is located in Greymouth on the west coast of South Island.
The appropriately named – West Coastin’ Hazy – at 5.5%, lived up to its description. A – Tropical Hazy IPA – this had the full haze and featured Mosaic, Galaxy and Wai-iti hops. Dry tasting, it definitely had – East Coast (USA) – notes. The most southerly, and furthest from home Bier, the Hector will ever drink.
This is autumn, winter beckons, the beach across the way was empty. One can imagine that The Point Cafe must be stowed in the summer months.
Back at Dunedin, a second home-cooked meal washed down with Panhead. Home cooking, a delight. Panhead, not Emerson’s but with a quiet night in watching TV, total relaxation. Tomorrow, the trek resumes.
For inexplicable reasons, our hosts had an early night. We are in New Zealand.
Bar visited today:
The Point Cafe, Bar and Shop – 58 Esplanade Balclutha, Kaka Point 9271
Day 37, April 26 Friday – Dunedin to Auckland
Tonight, flight #10 of the trip, this time, back to Auckland. A two day stop-over in Auckland before leaving New Zealand was conceived, just in case we became stuck on the South Island. Again, the realisation that we should have come to Dunedin straight after Auckland #1 and worked our way northwards hit home. 6ºC in Dunedin this morning, rising to 10ºC later today, definitely time for something 
more tropical. The evening flight meant we did not have to be at Momona Airport until after 17.00.
Mark had a plan, how to keep us amused. Normally, one has the feeling of killing time until going to the airport. In the end it was a case of tearing ourselves away. Or did Marg just not wish to leave Alfie?
Jude had already disaapeared off to work by the time the Hector surfaced. It appears hugging a Koala is not just a Brisbane thing.
Friends of Mark were keen to meet us. By 10.00, were were at a beach cafe – Fugue St Clair. We spent a good hour getting to know Mick and Steve, aka Harry.
Companionable silence – was once again explained to Marg. It’s a man thing. Sausage Roll became a possibility, but not after what I had just eaten.
Thereafter, Mark took Marg and Alfie for a farewell walk on another beach. It was time to pack. Deciding what to take, always a problem.
We parked in Downtown Dunedin. No Name Alley – not an easy place to find, Mark somehow knew where it is. Here lies another Brewery in Dunedin – Steamer Basin Brewery and Taproom.
However, this was not opening until 15.00 and so there was time for Sausage Roll. Catalyst had none available, more coffee and cake.
As much a cafe as a restaurant, here was the b.effect – Ridgleline which I had two night ago at Albar.
A Hazy IPA of some quality on offer in a random restaurant, is not what we are used to back home.
The scale of Steamer Basin Brewery was typical of a microbrewery.
Sadly, the range of Bier was way too traditional, Emerson’s, this was not.
Blond IPA at 5.0% was the best option. Gold, with a chill haze, this was dry suggesting a high IBU. Motueka and NZ Chinook were the hops.
Mark had mentioned the Duke of Wellington as being the must visit pub in Dunedin. This was the final opperchancity and thus my final South Island Bier. It was apparent that Mark was well known here.
Nectaron IPA (Cassels, Christchurch, New Zealand) at 6.1% was gold with a slight haze. Mellow, dry, this proved to be very easy to drink. Closer in style to a West Coast IPA, Nectaron NZ were the hops.
And so to the airport. Mark dropped us off, no £6.00 fee here a la Glasgow Airport. Hopefully we’ll see Mark and Jude in Scotland in the not too distant future. In the meantime, a BIG thank you.
Flight NZ678, a three digit code means a jet. A jet means proper security.
Marg had advised Alison in Auckland, that we would have eaten already. This meant airport fayre.
Ah, but, behold the Sausage Roll! Too dry it had probably sat out all day. This was nothing like the one enjoyed back on Day 34 at St Clair beach.
Mark has subsequently sent me a recipe for New Zealand Sausage Roll.
One may be used to no frills when flying, but this is the national airline. My fifth and final NZ Airways flight, each time their plastic cup of water and dry nibble has been declined. Less than two hours to Auckland, a cinch.
Alison was waiting once again in the arrival hall, and so back to Greenhithe. This was the first time in over over a month when I have walked into a room and recognised the bed. Home sweet home.
Hector was last to retire, this stuff doesn’t write itself.
Brewery, bar, restaurant and cafe visited today:
Steamer Basin Brewery & Taproom – No Name Alley, Central Dunedin, Dunedin 9016
Duke of Wellington – 51 Queens Gardens, Central Dunedin, Dunedin 9016
Fugue St Clair – 24 Esplanade, St Clair, Dunedin 9012
Catalyst – 286 Princes Street, Central Dunedin, Dunedin 9016
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