Day 54 – Sunday, May 12th Seattle to Las Vegas
Flying back south to Las Vegas was not logical, and never in the original concept for this trip. San Francisco – Las Vegas – Seattle – Vancouver (Canada) was the plan, not possible. Our – One World – ticket states we have to fly – east. FYI, there is less than 0.5º in longitude between San Francisco and Seattle. No airline in the – One World – group could fly us from Vancouver to Toronto, we were told. Vancouver WA, which few have heard of, is the only one the Hector will ever get to visit.
Alaskan Airlines flight AS600, a two hour flight departing at 14.34. This meant a somewhat leisurely morning journey to SeaTac. As we began the lengthy walk from the Metro to the terminal, so we were tooted by the driver of the wally-trolley. He had two spaces, we may as well use them. And so for the first time, the Hector was driven at the beeping snails pace through the garage to the terminal. It is a ridiculous walk otherwise.
Compared to Honolulu, check-in was a breeze. We were in the system, proper, luggage allowance recognised, boarding cards issued. Marg was hungry.
We managed to get a table in one of the few eateries which was not burgers and pizza. Teriyaki Ribs for Hector, a Chicken Salad for Marg. Service was iffy, the tip still expected. Asian food, maybe I’ve had enough.
Once again, a volcano in the Cascade Range was prominent beneath us. I hoped to see Mt. St. Helens, having taught about the 1980 eruption for thirty four years. Alas, the telltale gap on the south western rim is not as well formed in my photo, so who knows?
The landscape gave way to desert, Nevada, serious heat once again, at last. Sandal temperatures, but still the Hector was not taking chances, the right foot is doing well.
From the ‘plane, I could see both Luxor and Excalibur as we taxied. So near yet so … in two previous visits to Las Vegas, I have learned that what looks nearby is much further in reality. My third visit, Marg’s second, this was the first trip without school kids. California 2000 and Canyonlands 2009, because the Hoover Dam is nearby. The Hoover Dam, River Basin Management in Higher Geography, Glen Canyon Dam is even more fun to teach.
Google say it’s a half hour walk to Tropicana Ave. to take Bus 201 which runs straight towards Excalibur. The Uber/Lyft pick-up area is clearly marked, simples. Apparently there are 12000 slot machines in the airport.
This was my second stay at Excalibur. The long queue to check in was as expected. Check-in online involved registering with MGM who own a swathe of hotels in Las Vegas. Despite some in the queue needlessly imbibing, and many just being plain stupid, the wait was not too long. Our four nights here cost a third of what we had just paid in Seattle. The Royal Tower, floor 18, this way.
For the first time, the Hector was permitted to walk across the casino floor, juveniles must walk on the perimeter only, and not look. What’s that horrible odour? Tobacco! Smoking is permitted in the lobby, gambling areas, the bars, wtf?
The view from the room was identical to 2000, looking back towards Harry Reid International Airport. In 2000, it was called McCarran, his legacy is no longer kosher.
The Tropicana Hotel is coming down, so our Uber driver informed us, as is Mirage. I cannot believe The Strip is going to soon resemble Sauchiehall Street (Glasgow, Scotland).
We emerged from Excalibur into that brief moment of twilight. The exterior of the hotel is impressive. Only after I left in 2000, did I discover there’s a swimming pool, tomorrow. We found a stall selling tour tickets. The helicopter ride to Grand Canyon was instantly dismissed, another ‘plane ride, just what we need, affordable just. I could have purchased four return flights from Scotland to Europe for what we paid. So it goes.
New York Hotel and Casino, one has to admit, this encapsulates all that is Vegas, complete with roller-coaster high up around the exterior. No chance.
On the far side, The Park Vegas, well sort of, but hey-ho – Beerhaus! Marg was hungry!
Marg arranged the food, Chili Dog, All American, but not pizza or burger, so perfectly fine. Savour the moment, Hector’s first Bier outside a Las Vegas hotel, how does one follow Seattle? Not with plastic!
Love Juice (Lovelady Brewing, Henderson NV) at 5.7%, a Hazy IPA had the full milkshake haze, and some sense of a hop hit. A session Bier, no more, a starter. Mosaic, El Dorado, Idaho 7 were the hops in this lactose Bier. It could have been more, and given the proximity to home, it may well be had again.
Across the street, the Hard Rock Cafe, who in time will occupy the Mirage site. Then there was – The Scottish Brewery – whose name shall never be written in these pages. It would be ironic if they sold the best range of NEIPA in Las Vegas and I was shooting myself in the foot by refusing to cross their threshold.
JaJa, a multi-tap bar further up The Strip, had nothing of interest. 84 taps, seriously, nothing.
And so to take on The Strip, and the throng. Bellagio, Caesar’s Palace, Mirage, Treasure Island, all in a line on the west side of the southern end of The Strip. There were scantily clad ladies who wanted their photos taken, why?
Every few minutes the waft of grass from a passerby. Two weeks in the USA, it’s still hard to get used to.
Dancing on a dais whilst a camera rotates 360º seems to be the new gimmick. When you’ve seen it once…
Bellagio Fountains, magnificent, and free! Con Te Partiro an emotional highlight. That the show is every fifteen minutes is an bonus, little hanging about.
Caesar’s Palace, morning glory, silly human race … sang Jon Anderson (Yes).
Silly – is how I have always described Las Vegas.
What do we do tomorrow night, after all, we’ll have done – Vegas. Gambling is not an option, for mugs. Thanks to tipping, I’m only getting 80 cents on the Dollar, why give away more money?
Crossing the road, there are bridges over the side streets. Getting across The Strip, there’s a mad dash near Mirage, which was not performing as we passed. Nothing happening at Treasure Island either.
There was a roar of two-stroke engines. A posse of chaps on mini-motor bikes were having a parade. The police must tolerate this, noisy, amusing, silly.
We took in The Venetian by which time I had worked out when the volcano was due to erupt at Mirage, back across The Strip.
Marg found a spot, I insisted we move, knowing exactly where the best place to observe the show was located. 
I could get a job as a tour guide, or a photographer. Hector is retired.
Beer Park occupies a balcony in – Paris Las Vegas – directly opposite Bellagio. A rooftop sports-bar is the official description, an excellent viewpoint, better if one can secure a table close to the edge. Access was a bit of a roundabout, well an elevator from inside the hotel was required to access the bar. We’ll always have Paris.
A seat at the bar with a view across to Bellagio was secured. Plastic glasses, they’re having a laugh. Closing time was soon, their justification. Closing, is this not a twenty four hour city?
Contact Haze (Elysian Brewing Company, Seattle WA) at 6.0% was in the preferred style – Hazy IPA / NEIPA. Not as Hazy as it could have been – roll the keg – there was a slight sharpness which subsided, before – dusty – crept in. The palate settled, this was fine. El Dorado, Mosaic, Southern Passion, Sabro, Citra, Sultana, this explains the complexity.
To depart, the obvious route out was now accessible, exterior stairs to a gate, previously locked, on the side-walk. The walk down this section of the east side of The Strip ain’t so interesting, loads of yoofs drinking what appears to be endless litre cardboard cups of melting ice.
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Again, crossing the road at intersections took a bit of nous. To get back into Excalibur requires taking in a corner of New York, behold a bar.
Pour 24, closing at midnight, so why not rename it? More plastic, this could become an issue.
Perhaps it was Hector’s erudite choice of Bier, look at the alternatives, the barman warmed to us, Marg especially. A record breaking Baileys was poured, minimal ice, maximum liquid.
Hector’s left ear was soon at risk.
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Tangerine Express IPA (Stone, San Diego, CA) at 6.7%, was the final Bier of the day. With a 7IBU, this was a decidedly mellow West Coast style IPA, a chill haze?
I liked the spot, an opperchancity to oversee the gamblers on the casino floor, the study of which was prohibited on previous visits. Nothing like as busy as 2000 or 2009, where are the peeps?
Three Biers in one day in Las Vegas, unheard of, no weans.
Bars visited today:
Beerhaus – The Park Vegas, 3970 Las Vegas Boulevard S, Las Vegas, NV 89109
Beer Park – 3655 Las Vegas Boulevard, Las Vegas, Nv 89109
Pour 24 – New York Hotel and Casino 3790 South Las Vegas Boulevard, Las Vegas, NV 89109
Day 55 – Monday, May 13th
The first ever full day in Las Vegas without weans to be responsible for, what does a Hector do? Simples, follow the model which works well on any other day abroad, ah, but not yet. A morning swim in the desert heat, in the pool I totally missed back in 2000. The main pool was closed, the lesser full of weans. No way, Pedro.
When will the pool open? – we asked those who looked as if they should know, e.g. the life guards, the towel handlers. Nobody knew nothing. Nobody appeared to care. No swim today.
Downtown Las Vegas, the original city, north of The Strip, had never been visited. The former – Holy Cow – brewery and the Stratosphere casino, are as far up The Strip as the Hector managed in 2000. The first port of call today, Divine Dosa and Biryani, was immediately to the north of these.
Investing $20.00 in the three day DEUCE bus ticket felt like a good idea. The three, at least, buses planned for today would justify this. The Hector hates faffing about for tickets. The first machine encountered wasn’t talking, advice was sought from a municipal worker who looked as if he would know. The DEUCE ain’t fast or necessarily punctual, but who’s in a hurry?
Divine Dosa, an acceptable Curry House, actually it was not great. During the visit, there was the dilemma: does one tip a robot?
On departure, what was that taste in the mouth I didn’t like? Back on the DEUCE.
Downtown, the part of Las Vegas made famous by movies of the 60’s and 70’s , e.g. Ocean’s Eleven and Robin and The Seven Hoods, featuring the The Rat Pack, or, James Bond’s – Diamonds Are Forever, have planted the Golden Nugget in Hector’s psyche.
This proved to be incidental on encountering the covered Fremont Street Experience. Food, well burgers & pizza, drink, and peeps flying overhead on a zip-wire, this was markedly different from the newer area to the south where we were resident.
Visiting – The Mob Museum – was considered, but with Chicago our next city stop, surely there will be something more there?
Maybe those in the know stay in this part of the city, however, the queue at the DEUCE terminus confirmed that many were heading south to The Strip, regardless. We were not for joining this, a crowd of mostly – yoofs, instead, ice-cream became the objective.
Lappert’s Ice Cream seemed a worthy venue. Following the – blue dot – took us around the exterior of the featureless California Hotel and Casino. The conclusion was eventually reached, Lappert’s Ice Cream was inside.
The wee girls working in such places must be underemployed. Perhaps such jobs are stepping stones for something greater. Are they happy at their work? Stop worrying, Hector, enjoy the ice-cream, the refuge from the desert heat, and the fact that tipping workers at a shop counter is still regarded as pointless. Bier of course is a different matter, and it was approaching Bier o’clock.
Across the road, we had passed Main Street Station. Not a train buff, but railway architecture at times is noted by the Hector. The Triple 7 Restaurant and Microbrewery lies inside, but there was no promise of anything different. Instead, we headed south towards the Arts District.
As is written, and shall be written again, in Las Vegas, just because something doesn’t look far doesn’t mean it’s close. With shoes chosen over sandals for the duration of the days in Vegas, just in case there’s a dress code somewhere, we marched south. The right foot would thank me, the left ankle remains dodgy sixteen months after rolling it in Köln.
Ten breweries are clustered in the area immediately to the south of the Arts District, an industrial area of sorts, with street names such as Commerce Street and South Main Street. This area I would like to have seen fifty years ago. Being a Monday, not everywhere was open. As we would establish, these venues are mostly frequented by the citizens of Las Vegas, off the tourist areas.
Hop Nuts Brewing is like a large bar with a brew-plant, reminiscent of No Rails Ale House (Albany OR). Here too, the serving person was most engaging. This time a young lady who knew her stuff.
A 7.3% NEIPA was perhaps not the best choice for a first Bier of the day but was the only one – in the style.
Chasing Clouds had Mosaic, El Dorado and Azacca hops and was as dry as, drier probably, than a NEIPA should be. Juicy, piney and dank – said the blurb. In other words, an aftertaste that the Hector could have done without. Still, not a bad start to the day.
With Stratosphere looming larger, but still – far away – we headed around the corner to Voodoo Brewing Company. This was a more modest outfit.
Fewer choices, limited indoor seating, one barman, one other customer, crucially, there was no – Hazy.
Tranquil Breezes at 5.5%, a more sensible abv, is an AIPA. Gold with a slight haze, this was again – dry, but light and refreshing. Remember the outside temperature. Azacca, Sultana and Trident hops featured in this offering which was probably more towards the West Coast in style.
We chatted with the two chaps present. The Bier might not have been outstanding, but socially we were doing well. The décor commanded photos, maybe the owners should put more effort into their range of Bier and may I say it, their website?
Able Baker Brewing, hardly five minutes away, was back along the more traditional new wave brewery style.
The food counter was as busy as the bar. No truck here, they do their own, the usual fayre.
One couldn’t miss the ducks. Atomic Duck – was explained, the names of many a Bier being a pun. Split Bill at 5.7% was Hector’s choice.
A Hazy IPA without the haze, was this yet another example of the bar staff not knowing they have to roll the barrel each day? With Citra and Mosaic, West Coast was coming to mind yet again, so – dry – was this Bier. Were all these Biers really so dry, or had Hector’s palate been contaminated with – cabbage – and this was distorting all?
Marg brought in a coffee from a venue next door, no problem.
On another day, I would have stopped off here and tried others, but not on this trip’s model. The sun was nearing the horizon as we crossed over to Nevada Brew Works.
A large corner unit, this was once again a venue which felt like home, well American home. And once again, no Hazy.
Ariana Rye at 6.5%, a Rye IPA, was again suitably dry and hoppy. Rye IPAs have been had over the years when nothing better is on offer. I have never had one I don’t like, they do make a change from the preferred NEIPAs.
Marg had a quality Ginger Beer, why is it so much better over here?
Early evening, a black sky, and helicopters endlessly doing the loop over the city for those who think this is worth it. Take the lift up Stratosphere, but try taking a decent photo with the vibration from the overhead roller-coaster. So 2000.
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Google Maps gives the live bus times in Las Vegas, why not everywhere? A couple of blocks east and we were back on Las Vegas Boulevard awaiting the DEUCE.
Behold a cannabis dispensary and a wedding chapel, all we need now is to see Elvis, in person. Nicolas Cage would suffice.
Having arrived at Beer Park last night just on closing, giving them another chance seemed sensible. Who knows, I might even get a glass.
We alighted from the near empty bus at the Eiffel Tower, only in Vegas. We chose – our spot – at the bar, then waited, and waited. In the UK, Wetherspoons sometimes get a bad reputation for staff being blind to customers, this was something else, and it was one guy in particular. Having eventually acknowledged the Order, he simply disappeared to the far side, never to return. No man”s land. Hopefully his photo has been captured for the World to identify him. Eventually a Doris took the Order, and the Hector had his glass.
Having had the Contact Haze (Elysian Brewing Company, Seattle WA) last night here, why not have a different Hazy, after all, they have been hard to find today.
Ride On (Golden Road Brewing, CA) a Hazy IPA at 7.5%, had the haze but not the body associated with this abv. Not a big hitter then, the sense of hops was pleasant enough and there should have been more. Ten hops had been waved over the vat at the brew-plant: Simcoe, Centennial, Chinook, CTZ, Motueka, Galaxy, Cashmere, Idaho 7, Amarillo and Strata.
Having watched the Hector have fun all day, Marg decided it was time for her to join the party. At The Buzzer, a rum based cocktail, became her tipple.
I enjoyed the Bier, Marg her cocktail, and the view of Bellagio once again. This time we were up for getting our photos taken and chose an obliging passer-by. OK, Beer Park, we’ve done it.
Back on the DEUCE, and the fourth trip meant we were now quids in. With seemingly no stop directly outside Excalibur, or did we just miss it, Luxor was next. I had intended bringing Marg here to show her the replicas of what we have seen with our own eyes in Upper Egypt. Excalibur is all about the exterior, at Luxor, they have an interesting interior also.
Marg was hungry.
The aptly titled Public House had plenty of space and no smoking. Smoking had not been an issue at any of our ports of call today, normal rules apply, but not in gambling areas.
Nachos, a mountain of nachos was ordered, just enough to share.
More Contact Haze for Hector, this Bier is growing on me.
Guess who was last out of Public House, not the casino… time for bed.
The enclosed walkway between Luxor and Excalibur eventually led us past – The Buffet. Open until late afternoon, this is not what the Hector wants. If we are going to do a Vegas Buffet, and in 2000, I think I did Caesar’s Palace, then let’s make a night of it.
Sword In The Stone Bar in Excalibur is open 24/7, the only one anywhere near us that is. I’ll just park this information.
Breweries, bars, restaurant and cafe visited today:
Hops and Nuts Brewing – 1120 S Main St #150, Las Vegas, NV 89104
Voodoo Brewing Company – 1415 S Commerce St #105, Las Vegas, NV 89102
Able Baker Brewing – 1510 S Main St Ste 120, Ls Vegas, NV 89104
Nevada Brew Works – 1327 S Main St Ste 160, Las Vegas, NV 89104
Beer Park – 3655 Las Vegas Boulevard, Las Vegas, NV 89109
Public House – Luxor Hotel, 3900 S. Las Vegas Blvd., Las Vegas, NV 89119
Divine Dosa and Biriyani – The Lassi Bar – 3049 S Las Vegas Blvd #15, Las Vegas, NV 89109
Lappert’s Ice Cream – California Hotel and Casino, 12 E Ogden Ave #2F, Las Vegas, NV 89101
Day 56 –-Tuesday, May 14th
Day 57 – Wednesday, May 15th
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